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1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Security Information
Constant 12V+ Pink/Black Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Yellow/Blue or Yellow Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition Dark Blue/Gray Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition 2 Red/Black Ignition Switch Harness (for AC)
Accessory Black/Orange Ignition Switch Harness
Tach Gray/White Coil
Brake Switch White/Tan Brake Switch
Trunk Pin n/a Works with Dome Light
Parking Lights Blue/Red (+) Left of Steering Column or Light Switch
Head Lamp Tan/Black Light Switch
Factory Disarm Purple/Yellow (-) Driver's Kick Panel Black Connector at ECM
Door Trigger Yellow (-) Driver's Kick Panel see notes
Door Lock 5/Wire in Driver's Inside Driver's Door Orange/Purple Lock Pink/Black Unlock
Door Unlock and Passenger's Doors Inside Passenger's Door Black/White L Pink/Black Unlock
Horn Wire Gray/Orange (-) Steering Column
Windows Up LF=Light Blue, RF=Brown/White, LR=Blue/White, RR=Gray/Black Doors
Windows Down LF=White, RF=Purple/White, LR=Red/Black, RR=Green/White
This was our third attempt at repair and according to AL lemon law we now have to contact the manufacturer for a final attempt at repair before we can start a lemon law file.
R Tidwell
Pull back the top of the carpet under/behind the glove box of the front passenger floor board. You should not need to remove any molding for this. You should find a black/grey plastic piece with a circular shape at the bottom with a V shape coming out of the top (as shown in the picture). Drill a hole through the center of the lower circle part and you will be looking straight out the front (through the firewall) where the drain ends. You should be able to run a wire of some sort up through the drain hose to try to dislodge any blockage. Once any blockages have been removed, repair the hole that you drilled with some type of moldable rubber, plummers putty, or silicone, but make sure your make-shift plug doesn't block the inside of the drain tube.
I hope this helps. Good Luck. -Mark.
You can report the problem at www.nhtsa.dot.gov
I will caution you on this however. There was a huge deal with Audi several years back and it was determined that people were pressing the gas pedal and brake pedal simultaneouly resulting in "unintended acceleration".
This problem has been reported on numerous different vehicles since then and no vehicle has ever been found to have a problem.
there is a different air sensing system on the 05 i dont know if this has something to do with it its not a mass air flow sensor its something else thanks for your input, although the people that do have this problem have already been through the oil issue thanks, mark
Man, how's that for a runon sentence. :P
i can find several sites on the internet where people are asking the same question and not one person has ever supplied an answer. our jeep has 175,000 miles and retiring it is not an option right now. we've just come to accept that we will stall while driving 65 down the interstate in downtown houston. we lose complete power and don't always make it to the shoulder if traffic is thick and houston has a tow law. if we leave it, they take it.
Note that the relay is bolted to the passenger side inner fender low on the inside of the fender. Access to the relay involves either removing the headlight assembly and/or the battery and battery tray. It is fairly difficult to get to the relay.
I completed this repair just three weeks ago. The fan has started normally since then. The repair was complete at 115K miles on a 2000 JGC.
Back in the days when most cars were rear drive, it was not uncommon to hear such noises. Unless you start hearing some grinding or howling from the back end, it's not likely that you will need repairs.
like what was happening to my jeep.YES it was intermittant,YES my jeep did the same thing. I did the test that the Haynes manual suggested and my sensor failed miserably. It can be done at home if you are mechanically inclined, but as the other reply didn't tell you was that you have to do this under the car. It is located
above the transmission bell housing on the left side of the BACK of the block
(as you are sitting in the drivers seat). A swivel socket on a very long 1/4 inch drive ratchet would have made the job a whole lot easier!
checked the fuses they are ok.
any ideea?
or if anybody had the same kind of problem what is the cost aprox.
i just service the car after the manual,the rest is all foreign for me.
thank you,
I checked the fluids and all seemed to be within acceptable range. The engine coolant was maybe a little low, so I added some new coolant but it still overheats. Any insights into what the problem might be, and if I need to take it in to the shop?
Lucy Samuels
I've already had the rotors resurfaced and had to replace a power window motor. Fuel pump needs to be replaced too but I don't have $500 right now. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Check out your local parts stores and local mechanics. I found a parts store (AutoZone, I think) that had factory rebuilt axels for my car for about $60 each (I had to return the old axels so they could turn them back in) and they guaranteed the part. Most mechanics don't want to do the work unless you're buying the parts from them as well. But I found one that would do it and would still guarantee the maintenance. Anyway, to have both front axels replaced cost me about $220 for parts and maintenance, good as new. My suggestion would be to check out parts stores and mechanics and get some quotes. If you can't afford it, go spend $15 and get a Haynes Repair Manual from the auto parts store and check out the steps to replace or rebuild the axel or the joint or whatever. But looking at my manual, it looks pretty involved. Hope this helps. Good luck.