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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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  • anajeraanajera Member Posts: 2
    WHEN I TURN THE AIR ON IN MY JGC 1995, THE TEMPERATURE GOES UP, I WILL GO TO THE DESERT SOON, I ALREADY REPLACE MY RADIATOR ABOUT A HALF YEAR , I ALWAYS HAVE THIS PROBLEM, WHAT YOU RECOMMEND, DID I CHANGE MY THERMOSTAT ?, REPLACE THE FLUID OF MY RADIATOR Doesn't WORK
  • carver922carver922 Member Posts: 1
    Hello, my husband and I are just recently married. We have a 98 jeep grand cherokee laredo sport. the back of our jeep is making terrible grinding and howling noises. A lot of people who get into our car ask us if we are dragging anything. Also, when we drive around anywhere from 50 - 70 mph the jeep makes a high pitched noise. What could be causing all of this. My dad is wondering if the rear end is going out or if the ball bearings are shot. Please help, we don't have money for repairs or for shady garage's that will cost a lot of money. :confuse:
  • evan34evan34 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2005 GCL V6 and I am getting about 13 mpg mixed city/freeway driving which is pretty far from the 17/22 it is rated at. Does this seem low to anyone? I got the v6 because I though I would get better mpg, boy was I wrong. I just want to know what people are getting and if there is anything I can do?
  • chellet66chellet66 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited. The problem started with the gauges working off and on. The lights in the instrument panel stay on all the time as if I were first starting the truck, and the dinging noise is driving me nuts. Then the doors wouldn't lock and unlock or some would and others wouldn't. Then the windows would work if the gauges were working and not if the gauges weren't working. THEN the A/C wouldn't blow out cold air unless the gauges were working, and if I locked and unlocked the passenger front door the gauges would start working and the A/C would blow cold. NOW the gauges work very seldom, the windows won't go down at all, and the A/C won't blow cold air at all. I have taken it a local dealer and they can't tell me what is wrong they just want to replace the instrument cluster and if that doesn't work move on to the next part. This is RIDICULOUS! What do I have $$$ signs written on my forehead? I don't think so. I have called another local dealership and they say it is probably the Body Module or the Powertrain Module. ????? I have no clue and these parts aren't cheap to have replaced on a PROBABLY attitude. Can anyone PLEASE HELP ME?
  • gmijoe1gmijoe1 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1999 JGC, and i had that problem around 45,000 miles. It started out doing it occassionally, and after a week, it would do it every time from 45 on up. I took it to my friend that owns a custom shop, and all he had to do was reset my computer. he told me that if that didnt work to replace the coils that rest on teh spark plugs, but i didnt need to.
  • fifthfifth Member Posts: 6
    13 mpg on the V6 sounds pretty low. I am getting 13 on the 5.7L Hemi V8 in my GCL and I think that is low. I have had 5 other GCLs over the years and they all gave 16 to 18 mpg mixed. The 2005 model is about 400 lbs heavier than the older style GCLs which would have some effect but they should run at least in the rated range.
  • eric091572eric091572 Member Posts: 13
    I too have a recent (about 1000 miles now) JGC 5.7L, and I am getting about 10 MPG (pure Los Angeles city hardcore commute), but about 20 MPG on the highway. Coming from an 5.4L Expedition that got 10 MPG mixed and had 100 less HP, I'm pretty happy with the results even though I know these figures are still relatively awful. My guess is that I am taking no advantage of the MDS in the city and on the highway, it's fairly effective. I am hoping that as I drive some more, it'll break in some and I'll get better city numbers. We'll see.
  • car2jeepcar2jeep Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with my 1995 grand cherokee. and i have also noticed that when its really hot, thats when i have the stalling while driving. If you have any luck please help! :cry:
  • mellis1mellis1 Member Posts: 12
    This maybe a foul ess, but sometimes when an engine is very hot a vapor lock occurs, and the gasoline in the fuel lines evaporate. This is very common in high performance engines especially on very hot days. I am not saying this could be your problem, but it's a possibility. As an example I use to have a Datsun pick-up truck with a short block 350 chevy engine in it. And every time the weather got very hot in the summer. The truck would stall out, and I would have to wait for the engine to cool down and it would re-start until it got hot again. I had to wrap the fuel lines close to the engine with heat resistant tape to protect it from boiling. Does this example sound anything like your problem.
  • mellis1mellis1 Member Posts: 12
    Thank you for the information, I'll tell them. Does this repair come under the extended warranty. Because I do have the warranty. Or does it fall under the 7/70K warranty. Please reply.
  • mellis1mellis1 Member Posts: 12
    I see your had a rude customer service rep. Did you try calling the district manager in your area. Maybe he would of given you a better reply then that person gave you. Sometimes they are more forgiving, they are just call takers.
  • drake007drake007 Member Posts: 1
    Matt, I had a similar problem, result was replacement of mixture sensors on exhaust system, connected to engine managment.
  • richl1richl1 Member Posts: 1
    Check and see if the Differential center section is Aluminum - magnet should not stick to aluminum. If aluminum and someone jacked up the car on that center section - it probably bent in relation to the axles. This causes the spider gears to tumble all the time giving a Roaring sound. I did that to my 98 GC Limited, cost $750 for a rebuilt rear end plus labor.
  • esyladnasesyladnas Member Posts: 1
    I also have a 1994 JGC that stalls in the same way as yours, idle or 65MPH - interestingly it stopped stalling all winter [here in Michigan], and went right back to this behavior in the spring and now summer. Have you gotten any answers?
  • 88jc230k88jc230k Member Posts: 2
    This is my experience with fuel injected 4L ... don't know if this will help but...
    1. If there is an idle motor, take it out and polish it.
    Remember on injected engines there is no fuel additive that will clean the
    throttle body (I know this sounds stupid, but I start believing it myself every
    once in a while)

    On most cars stalling, bad starting, etc is broken down to
    1. spark
    2. fuel
    However, on my jeep there is a third...VACUUM.
    Believe it or not, a cracked valve cover gasket will not only leak oil, but will
    affect the way the engine runs...VACUUM.
    Make sure that the vacuum system is exactly as it was designed. If you have questions, go to the dealer and buy a new set and follow them around (mine
    came in two parts)
  • rebejeeprebejeep Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem this last weekend. I changed the starter and it worked. I was able to get home. The next day it wouldn't start again. The mechanic suggested I buy a new battery. It worked until he left my house. He also checked all the fuses and they were fine.

    I found another mechanic who found the problem. It was the ignition switch. He said it was a common problem with jeeps. My jeep is now working fine.
  • 88jc230k88jc230k Member Posts: 2
    If it has an idle motor ... polish it!!!
    Then make sure every vacuum line is correctly installed and are exactly as they
    were designed.

    If it's leaking oil, it is also probably running badly ... VACUUM.
  • mdaymday Member Posts: 5
    i could have sworn the hemi has the 5-545rfe transmission please let us know if it is or not there is a tsb on the nag 1 for water in trans causing shift problems but i thought it was just the laredos, mark
  • jeepgaljeepgal Member Posts: 2
    I just bought my 2005 Rocky Mountain Edition JGC. And if you think being married to a sales rep for Jeep would be a bonus, it's not.

    The air bag light comes on (both on the dash and on the passenger side), dings twice and STAYS on for sometimes as long as 8 minutes (not just the 8 seconds it is suppose to stay on). There is no one sitting there. And it doesn't do it everytime....maybe ever 5 times the car is started. Sometimes while I am driving, sometimes while I am in park.

    So my husband takes it into the dealership, and they hook it up to the diagnostic, and it doesn't "throw a code". So the tech says "we can't do anything about it."

    You know the tech is thinking (that wife is crazy)...so he blows me off.

    Now I am mad! I am afraid the air bag is going to deploy while we're driving (with my 2 babies in the car). And the dealership says "can't do anything about it cause we can't replicate it."

    Can anyone give me any advice...or do I just wait this out and hope nothing happens to us while driving it?????

    Thanks!
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    Do you have any weight in the right front seat? There's a weight sensor on the 2005s where it will "sense" weight in the front seat. Placing a briefcase could turn on the "Passenger Airbag Off" light. Putting something a little heavier could trick the computer in to thinking there is a person in the seat without the seatbelt fastened.

    Your airbag will not deploy just because the light is on. If anything, that means the airbag will NOT deploy when the light is on.

    This is probably a dumb question but you don't have your babies in the front seat, do you?
  • mstoverinkmstoverink Member Posts: 22
    My 97 JGC (V8 5.2L with about 90,000 mile) overheated today in a big way. I was driving up a mountain road for about 15-20 minutes when I noticed the temp guage was getting pretty high (about 3/4) so I start looking for a place to pull over but before I can all of a sudden the guage pegs out. I finally find a spot to pull off the road and pop the hood...looks like the coolant in the overflow reservoir is boiling...the reservior itself was so hot that it was plyable and was moving around from the force of the boiling. I don't actually think it was boiling, just steam pressure bursting in from the radiator. Naturally the coolant was gushing out of the overflow drain in the passanger side wheel well and eventually cooled down. Once it was cool, I guess some of it drained back into the radiator leaving the reservoir level just below the ADD line. I also checked the radiator cap and there is a rubber seal that looks ok, but there is also an o-ring of some sort just inside the neck of the radiator and it looks like it could be messed up, but I'm not sure what it's supposed to look like anyway (see picture below). Any ideas as to what may have caused this? Thanks in advance for any help. -Mark.

    image
  • ky_jeep_ladyky_jeep_lady Member Posts: 8
    how much did the ignition switch cost u? did u replace it urself? i'm hoping 2 get my jeep fixed soon. thank u 4 ur help
  • ajeepguyajeepguy Member Posts: 3
    I had an '01 and had the very same problem. The only time this happened was when I came to a complete stop. I drove mine for several weeks with the malfunction; I would just pull the gear selector down into "L" every time I stopped to get it in the correct gear. Eventually, this became tiresome. I traded it in about a year ago for a 2004, so I no longer have the work order, but the local Jeep dealer fixed mine first time in...I believe they replaced a solenoid in the tranny for about $400. Sorry I can't be more specific.
  • srxcansrxcan Member Posts: 3
    When I make a turn the back wheel feels like it's in 4 low. Can anyone tell me whats wrong? and what I have to do :sick: It's a 97 Cherokee awd
  • mtelseymtelsey Member Posts: 10
    I recently bought a 2005 jgc, and it is at the shop now. The information center said the transmission was over temp. When I took it in, the mechanics seemed puzzled. They said the tranny fluid was milky, and they didn't know why. Well they have found that the radiator had a crack in it, and was leaking fluid into the transmission, and (according to them) must be a problem they are noticing w/ the new jeeps, cuz the radiator is on back order. They are replacing the radiator, and flushing the system. I will let you know what happens after. Thought I would chime in on the transmission problem, since I have seen this issue raised on this board more than once, but no one has mentioned the radiator being the culprit. After buying my new jeep, am i hearing the horror stories about them. And I did unbelievable research on them before I decided to buy. Oh well.
  • mstoverinkmstoverink Member Posts: 22
    Will someone please help me. I live in Italy and do not have the convenience of local parts stores/dealerships/american mechanics etc. This is the second time I've posted and am getting no responses. I know overheating has been brought up in the past and I've looked through those posts but there doesn't seem to be a real resolution...at least not one that works for me. Please, if you have any ideas let me know, if you have any idea what the brown ring is inside the neck of the radiator let me know...is it just really dirty or is it supposed to be there? How important is it, does it need to be replaced? I've refilled the the coolant after it all leaked out of the overflow drain, warmed the car back up and it all drained again. It's not getting into the oil, the oil looks fine, and the top radiator hose (that allows fluid from the engine to the radiator) is getting hot so I think the thermostat is working...Please any help or suggestions. Any troubleshooting ideas, let me know, I'm desperate. Thank you.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    is it just really dirty or is it supposed to be there?

    I have no idea what that is but I don't think it's supposed to be there! The coolant looks clean so the residue probably isn't soluble and, if it is in the coolant, may have settled to the bottom. Have you tried flushing the radiator to remove any deposits?

    You may also want to inquire about this problem in Got a Quick, Technical Question?.

    tidester, host
  • jaya29jaya29 Member Posts: 1
    Mark, can you e-mail me that picture? jay_a_29@hotmail.com

    The link seems to be broken. This is the exact problem I am having.
  • dayn1dayn1 Member Posts: 1
    Check out the G-Switch under the rear seat.
  • mkelcott74mkelcott74 Member Posts: 8
    have you already removed or changed the thermostat ?
  • mkelcott74mkelcott74 Member Posts: 8
  • mkelcott74mkelcott74 Member Posts: 8
    check your vacum line on your 4x4
  • mkelcott74mkelcott74 Member Posts: 8
    check out your sway arm bushings they probly need changed they cost around $9.00 cach
  • mkelcott74mkelcott74 Member Posts: 8
    are you sure that all 4 tires are the same size and same tread?
  • mkelcott74mkelcott74 Member Posts: 8
    check out your sway arm bushings its the 2 little bars that run up and down right beside your front tires they cost around $9.00 each i just had the same problems and if you keep driving it like that after awhile it will start shaking so bad that you will have to pull over and start out again
  • bluenosebluenose Member Posts: 1
    Help! We own a 2002 Grand Cherokee (V8). It has the Quadra-Trac System. It currently has 150,000 kms on it. Last summer, we noticed a grinding noise coming from the rear whenever we were making tight turns (almost sounded like it was in 4 low). The problem seemed to get worse on warmer days (never had a problem with the noise in the winter). After several trips to the dealer, one the mechanics suggested that the fluids in the rear needed to be changed (?). This worked...no problems...until THIS summer, when the exact same noise/problem showed up again a few weeks ago. The transmission went on the rig and was changed a few months ago. The rear wheel bearing were changed a few months ago. I took the Jeep in to the dealer to have the fluids changed again last week, and they called me to say that it was the front wheel bearings that were causing the problem and that they needed to be replaced ("the fluids are fine"). Ok. $750 later, I now have new front wheel bearings, and the noise is still there (no better). They're now trying to tell me that it is the front differential bearing causing the problem, and that it needs to be replaced. My confusion is why did simply changing the fluids work well last summer, and why does this seem to be a "seasonal" problem? If it was the front differential going, wouldn't it have been a problem all year long (since last summer)? I can understand the concept of noise transfer from the front to the back, but you can actually FEEL the grinding in the rear when you're driving....I would appreciate any feedback that could be offered...7 months pregnant...my patience for getting milked by the dealer is non-existant! And I still need to fix the darn problem!
    Thanks!
  • mkelcott74mkelcott74 Member Posts: 8
    hey are you sure that when the last time the plugs was changed that the right plugs was put back in because i just had that problem also advance auto gave me the wrong size plugs they were for a different size motor so you amy want to pull one of you plugs out and check to see if thats the problem
  • mkelcott74mkelcott74 Member Posts: 8
    check your belts and water pump because both will make that sound when they need changed
  • mtomassimtomassi Member Posts: 2
    it was a sensor
  • peck1peck1 Member Posts: 3
    I have the 2005 Grand Cherokee with the V6. Depending on the type of driving I am doing (highway or city) I am getting between 17.0 and 21.6 miles per gallon. I have found that if I am in the stop and go of the city I go down to 17 (at the lowest). However, if I am traveling on a major route and going anywhere from 45 to 60 miles per hour she seems to really love it and the MPG climb into the high 21's. I have found that if I stomp on the gas I get very poor gas mileage. However, if you gather speed gradually instead of punching it you average (mpg) climbs higher and higher.
    -JP
  • aswainaswain Member Posts: 2
    I was parked on the street and had gone inside for about 20 minutes. When I came out, my Jeep had just rolled about 50 feet and hit a construction truck. Punctured the grill, radiator and A/C system --- to the tune of $2,500. Weird thing was that the accident had just happened --- after the Jeep had been parked for 18-20 minutes. I've been driving manuals for 25 years and never had anything like that happen. A friend said she vaguely remembers a problem with Cherokees popping out of gear. Anyone know anything about Libertys?
  • knichol05knichol05 Member Posts: 7
    Of course I stumbled across this forum because I'm searching the internet for details regarding this stumbling/bucking/rumbling problem. I have the 2005 laredo V-6, which is going to the shop for the third time. My wife and I are first time jeep owners and I wanted something safe to cart around our newborn. The first time we brought it in was because my wife was on the highway coming home and the transmission completely slipped and she could not accelerate! the engine revved and she had to ease off the highway! Needless to say I was very upset. The dealer said there was water in the tranny fluid and there was a bulletin regarding a seal or something that needed to be replaced. It currently has 3100k and the rumbling is getting worse. I'll let the forum know how the fix goes.
  • jeepgaljeepgal Member Posts: 2
    No there is nothing in the front passenger seat (no briefcases, no children, nada)

    The sensor must have some sort of short in it.

    Thanks!
  • gmijoe1gmijoe1 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 99 GC with 85,000 miles. A few months ago a noise started in the front end. it starts at 35 and fades away around 50. it is a constant knocking, but it had no pattern. it almost sounds like something is wobbling, and knocking. it is pretty loud, but you can only hear it when you sit in the drivers seat. if you put your head to the left of the steering wheel, it is even louder. at first i thought that it was a CV joint, but i replaced them both, and no change. it is not a shock bushing either, cause i have checked them. my drive shaft also seems fine. it is getting louder, and it is driving me crazy. i would appreciate any advice.
  • ajeepguyajeepguy Member Posts: 3
    Mark, I looked at the picture; I'm not sure what that is around the filler neck on your radiator, but the fact that it doesn't extend all the way around would make it hard for the cap to seal properly. I would clean that out (put a piece of cloth or such down in the neck so that debris doesn't get into your radiator), then replace your cap with a PROPER replacement. If your system doesn't maintain pressure, it will overheat prematurely.
  • page2page2 Member Posts: 2
    I also "stumbled across this forum due to the issues that I am having with my 2005 GCL 2WD. After my vehicle sitting in front of my window in the parking lot at work, I came out to leave to a truck that would not start but flashed "Transmission Temperature too high". and the box that goes around the gear you are in all had squares around it. I called the dealership and they came out and fooled with the shifter and got it started. It still had all the boxes around it and the trans temp high warning was still on as well as the check engine light. They took it to the shop and the code it was throwing read trans temp too high. I left the vehicle and they replaced the computer in it. 3 weeks later, the exact thing happened again and I fooled with the shifter and got it started. This time, when I put it into reverse and started to back out on my way back to the dealer, the truck threw itself into park although I was traveling backwards. It about gave me whiplash and then when I got it back into drive, it would not come out of 1st gear. The dealership called Chrysler and they said they had not heard of this issue (hard to believe - seems to be the same issues as they had with their 1998 model). It still isn't fixed and I am very afraid of this vehicle. I hope you share this with others so no one gets hurt!
  • hunt13hunthunt13hunt Member Posts: 1
    Your problem sounds like mine. The pressure regulator is going bad. It is located inside the gas tank you buy a new fuel pump/regulator $300.00. To confirm this is your problem hook a gauge to the fuel rail and your PSI should read about 47 - 50.
    If you get lucky and have it hooked up while the engine is acting up the gauge will be very erractic.
  • bwfbwf Member Posts: 2
    Hello:
    I'm considering buying a used Jeep - either a 1998 or 1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport (just over 100,000 miles, $7,000) or a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo (just under 100,000 miles on this one, $9,000).

    I have heard that the Jeep Grand Cherokees are less reliable than the standard Cherokee Sports. I am not exactly sure why this is - can anyone elaborate? Do you agree? I'd rather have the Grand Cherokee but don't want to buy a car that I'll have problems with.

    Also, I am buying this car for law school, and I will sell it again in 3 years after I graduate and move back to NYC. Which car will get me the most money if I re-sell? It seems to me that the Grand Cherokee will be a better bet.

    Thanks for your help. Any other suggestions are welcome - this is the first car I've bought...
  • g_man1g_man1 Member Posts: 3
    I also have an '02 GC Laredo, but I have the Selec-Trac 4x4 system with a limited slip rear differential. I, too, noticed a grinding noise coming from the rear last year, but it was (mostly) unpredictable and (worse) unrepeatable at the dealership. The only place in which it consistently produced the noise was coming home every night, pulling into the driveway. So I changed the differential and transfer case fluids, which temporarily solved the problem (why I'm not sure -- reduced stress, I imagine). But eventually it began again. Knowing that the standard answer from the dealer for an unpredictable problem noise would be that they could not reproduce it, I just let it get worse until it was a constant annoyance. I took it to the dealer, went for a short ride with the service manager to demonstrate the problem, and left it for repairs. It turns out that, in my case, the axle bearings on both side were completely worn out and the axles themselves were also worn beyond repair. Additionally, the added stress on the drive train had caused damage to the rear differential. All had to be replaced. Lucky for me it was all covered by warranty; that would have been a huge bill! So my advice to you would be to have the rear axle bearings replaced, and soon, before it becomes a major issue. Without bearings, the axles will not turn forever, as I'm sure you are aware.

    Incidentally, I never noticed a change in the symptoms when the weather changed, but then I live in Southern California where it never gets below freezing, unlike you folks in Canada. I suppose it's possible that thermal expansion/contraction due to ambient temperature could change the stresses on the drive train ...

    Another possibility is that the differential was failing first, and caused the damage to my axles ... ? Good luck with your problem.
  • g_man1g_man1 Member Posts: 3
    Hate to break it to you, but sometimes auto repair is a little trial-and-error, especially if the problem is abnormal. BUT, the good (?) news is that I have heard of odd electrical problems associated with 99 GCLs before. I have also heard (no hands-on experience) that these vehicles are highly sensitive to the battery voltage. In some of those cases, simply replacing the battery exorcised the electrical demons and everything worked the way it should. I'm not saying it will definitely fix your problem, but it's a low cost alternative that may be worth checking out. If your battery is the original unit, it must be 6-7 years old by now.
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