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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • evan34evan34 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the info. I have tried gradual starts and it doesn't seem to help too much. Basically, the range of mpg is from 11.0 mpg in the city (stop and go in Los Angeles) and up to 15.7 mpg on a 25 mile open stretch of freeway ( The best MPG I have got so far). I do notice the mpg climb on the freeway, but it seems to not want to go any higher than 15.7 mpg. This is driving me crazy and is the only thing that I regret. I drive between 30 to 50 miles a day and it really bothers me that I need to fill up my tank 1 to 2 times a week. Maybe my transmission is messed up or something?
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    The Grand Cherokee was a brand new platform for the '99 model year and had its share of teething pains.
    Known problem areas are brake rotors/calipers as well as transmissions.
    I would suggest having a good mechanic look at it before you purchase a '99 GC.
  • bwfbwf Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the heads up - I will definitely have our family mechanic check it out. What about GC models after 99? Were they better?

    And what do you all think about 1998/99 Jeep Cherokee Sports? I have heard that they are pretty reliable, but the ones I'm looking at have about 100,000 mi. on them. Anything to watch out for?

    Thanks again for your help.
  • ehunt1ehunt1 Member Posts: 1
    I've got some recent issues with my '98 GC. The thing will start (sometimes) but not idle. Then yesterday, I started it and it died. When I tried to restart it, nothing happened, not even a click when I turned the key. When I took the key out, I heard a fast clicking noise from the glove box area. I called my wife to come give me a jump, but in the 10 minutes it took her to get there it suddenly decided to work again. This morning it started fine.

    My wife has similar issues with her '00 GC. What is the deal with the electrical systems in these things? Does anyone recognize these symptoms? I'm kinda stuck here just replacing stuff until it gets better.
  • topoftherockietopoftherockie Member Posts: 6
    This sounds like the classic IAS (Idle Airspeed Motor) that needs a cleaning in the worst way. My IAS motor is mounted on the side of the throttlebody on my 4.7 V-8 :cry:
  • septjetseptjet Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I am new to these forums and am a first time poster. I just bought a 94 GCL from my wife's relatives and need info for 4wd shifting. They told me that in order to get the vehicle in and out of 4wd, you need to back up. Is this the normal procedure? I know they had problems before, but I now have it stuck in "4wd parttime" and can't shift back to 2wd. There is no owner's manual so I am a bit confused. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks
  • topoftherockietopoftherockie Member Posts: 6
    afekete stated in #1369 on Jun 12, 2005 that a mechanic told him that there is a known bug with a sensor (cam shaft positions sensor I believe) which malfunctions and triggers an engine shutdown. But have yet to find an official report from Chrysler.

    I have a 1999 JGC 4.7 V8 that Shuts off while driving after reaching operating temperature.

    My Crank Position Sensor failed hard about 3 months ago and actually gave me an error code! I replaced it with a $50 one from the dealer and it ran flawless for 3 months before the intermittent stalls began, I suspect it has something to do with the hotter summer weather.

    To troubleshoot it, I assumed that the one from the dealer might be temperature sensitive and replaced it again with another one from the dealership, it didn't fix the problem. I've ordered yet another one from an on-line store assuming that the dealership has got a bad batch of temperature sensitive Crank Sensors. Would Chrysler really do that in order to sell more PCM's? Builds lots of Good Will for when I go shopping for my next car!

    I've got 2 different ideas on how Crank Position Sensors fail;
    1) They are usually all or nothing, eg, not intermittent.
    2) The Crank Position Sensor is a common problem with all Jeeps and that over time they become temperature sensitive. They need electricity to work and as such, they self heat and can go into thermal runaway which causes both spark and fuel systems to go crazy. Let the vehicle cool off for 20-30 minutes after which it runs like a champ until it heats up again. They're $50 from the dealership and $20 on the internet.

    My engine is running smoothly and then it's as if the ignition switch were just turned off. Pulling off the road and sometimes it fires back up immediately and other times I have to wait sometimes five minutes and other times 30 minutes for cooling. It will then restart and run flawlessly for another 5 miles and then do it again.

    Dealers have a difficult time working with this sort of problem as is intermittent. My dealer says that they have never heard of this problem so I won't be taking it to them!

    When my engine stalls, the gauges on the instrument panel don't seem to have any power;
    1. The Volt Meter reads zero volts. It returns to normal or about 12 volts after the engine cools for 30 minutes.
    2. The Temperature Gauge reads zero. It was running at the normal 200 - 210 degrees before it stalled and returns to about 180 after the engine cools for 30 minutes.
    3. The Fuel Gage reads zero. It was 3/4 full before the stall and returns to 3/4 after the engine cools for 30 minutes.
    4. The Fuel Pump doesn't run for the 1 second prime cycle when the key is turned to the RUN position. Bypassing the Fuel Pump Relay by jumpering connections (30 to 87) causes the Fuel Pump to run continuously. It continues to crank but it won't run.

    I believe that this is a PCM controlled shutdown of the Ignition System due to a dangerous condition, e.g., missing signal from a heat sensitive Crank Position Sensor.

    I have tested and replaced the following things in an attempt to fix the temperature related stalling problem. None of them has fixed the problem.
    1. Fuel pump/delivery (I have replaced the fuel pump),
    2. Replaced the CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) 3 months ago and fixed a previous no-start problem.
    3. Replaced the CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) again thinking I got a flakey one from the dealership.
    4. Replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor.
    5. I've read that the O2 Sensors should measure to 5 - 7 ohms between the two white wires. Mine measure 14 Ohms between the two black wires.
    6. I have a K'nN Air filter. Another poster stated that the oil used in these filters can contaminate the MAP sensor. I removed and cleaned the MAP sensor.
    7. Removed and measured the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) throughout the entire range of movement with both a digital and an analog ohm meter. Measured smooth from 5,000 ohms down to 500.
    8. Removed and cleaned the IAS (Idle Air Motor).
    9. Measured the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor at 1600 ohms.
    10. Measured the Intake Air Temperature sensor at 3000 ohms.
    11. Removed and cleaned numerous grounds from the PCM to the engine block,
    12. I don't hear any gush of air when removing the Gas Cap, but neither does any of my other cars, so I don't think this could be a faulty gas cap.
    13. Coils? My 99 JGC is equipped with "Coil over Spark Plug" technology, e.g., 8 little high voltage ignition coils build into the individual spark plug caps. I doubt that all 8 are failing at once. Another post states that changing out the plugs every 3 months seems to help but believes that's just masking some other problem.
  • topoftherockietopoftherockie Member Posts: 6
    I'd revisit your IAS (Idle Airspeed Motor). Was there any change after you cleaned your "idol control whatever"? I have a 1999 JGC Ltd with the 4.7 V-8. My IAS is located on the drivers side of the Throttle Body. Vacuum leaks could cause this. Your Crankshaft Position Sensor could be getting ready to fail too.
  • soberaasoberaa Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 jeep grand cherokee 6 cylinder that is overheating . I don't think the second or high fan is coming on. does anyone have any knowledge about this. any hel[ would be appreciated
  • kaceywaykaceyway Member Posts: 3
    Hi, I am new to the forum. Please forgive me if I don’t get all of the terminology quite right. I have a 2002 JGCL. For the last 8 months, it has been vibrating/shaking horribly. At first, it would only do it after it was off for a long period of time, now it does it all the time. I think you would call this a rough idle. It never “stalls” or dies (I think this is correct), it just seems like it is going to. The dealer has mentioned “misfiring”. As long as the Jeep is in park, it’s ok, but when I shift to drive, it shakes. Once I start driving, it’s ok. The check engine light keeps coming on with a code of P0301. This light started coming on Mar ‘04, and has been to the dealership 8 times since. First, I was told that the problem was the Oxygen Sensor, and it was fixed. I was told that if the light comes back on to bring it back b/c sometimes things go out in pairs. Sure enough 3 months later, the light was back on, and it got fixed again. A couple of months later the light was back on. I asked for a tune-up, transmission service, fuel injection cleaning, etc. to make sure the jeep was “right”. About 2 months later, light’s back on, goes back to dealership, they want to charge me to “fix” the same problem. My dad advised me to go to another Jeep dealership, & he met me there. Since then, I have been taking my jeep to them and they have been “fixing” it without charging me, the problem is, it isn’t fixed. My jeep was in the shop the entire week leading up to the 4th of July, and I took it back yesterday.

    Since last year, I have had two things done concerning the oxygen sensor, spark plugs replaced three times, wiring around the spark plugs replaced, something flushed and reprogrammed, and today he told me they were ordering a coil pack. Can someone please tell me if they have had these problems and what I can do next if the coil pack doesn’t work? The service guy told me that if this doesn’t work, he will take my jeep out back and torch it! Please Help! Also, I am experiencing wind noise on the driver’s side and the doors won’t automatically lock when I reach a certain speed anymore, what can this be? I’ve had the rotor problems like everyone else too, now I just want my jeep fixed. Should I just give up? -Kacey :cry:
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    P0301 means a misfire was detected in cylinder #1. Changing the spark plugs should have fixed the problem but there may be something else causing a misfire or there is a problem with the sensor itself. Here's a complete list of fault codes for the JGC.

    tidester, host
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    I think the '99 and '00 models were the most problematic. They get better the newer you get.
    The '98-'99 Cherokees are probably pretty darn good especially with the 4.0 L engine.
    I don't really care for the styling of the Cherokees in contrast to the Grand Cherokees but I think they're fairly reliable with some small issues.
    Anything up around 100k is probably worth taking to a mechanic to pay him $50 or so to check it out before putting your hard earned money on it.
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    You might want to check your tires to see if they are "cupping" on either the inside or outside edges.
    If that is the case, I'd check shocks to start with and other suspension components from that point on.
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    No, you should not have to back up to remove it from 4WD. If it is stuck in 4WD, odds are pretty good it has rarely been used and the adjustment cable is probably out of adjustment hence it is not shifting back out of 4WD.
  • ccook2ccook2 Member Posts: 3
    the fan relay is prob gone had same issue, 65$ from jeep dealer located under battery and headlight...friend had same issue
  • ccook2ccook2 Member Posts: 3
    it is under the battery near the headlight
  • ccook2ccook2 Member Posts: 3
    I had the same problem, check the door frames seals. they are the trim that runs along the inside body of the door. mine shrank I was able to stretch them an applied some glue to the inside took me a half hour to complete....
  • kaceywaykaceyway Member Posts: 3
    Thanks!!! I will print off the codes and see what happens this time around. I haven't heard anything yet and now it is going on day four without my jeep. If they find a resolution, I will post it. -kaceyway
  • silverstein1silverstein1 Member Posts: 2
    Be awfully careful with that. I just had the shock of my life to find out that my V6 05 JGC had eletrical equipment melt under my glove box. We had an A/C problem...the problem was no cold air. Great problem in Nebraska in 90+ degree heat. Told by dealership that this was an "extremely common" problem in 05 JGCs. Part would take 7-10 business days to arrive. Fixed on July 18th.

    On July 20th, the fan blower (for climate control inside vehicle) would not work on settings 1, 2, and 3. Only on 4. This tends to interfere with conversations, and is downright annoying.

    Took to dealership on same day. Technician discovered that the blower motor was drawing too many amps through the relay, and melted it. I am told that they have to order (1) A new blower motor (2) A new relay (3) A new resistor, and (4) a NEW WIRING HARNESS.

    Adding insult to injury is that when the parts come in, it will take 1-3 days to fix. Jeep does not provide a rental for you. So, my $30,000 SUV will be disabled soon, and I am out of money for a rental.

    I have filed a complaint with Daimler/Chrysler and have filed a safety complaint with NHTSA.gov. If this happened on the road, what else with the electrical system could have melted?

    Beware. This could get worse for you.
  • silverstein1silverstein1 Member Posts: 2
    Leasing a 2005 JGC Laredo V6. Started 39 month lease in Jan 05. Noticing a little stutter in transmission. Kind of a flutter...like it is deciding which gear to go into. Took to dealership. No problems found. No idea on why it did that.

    Fast forward to first week in July in Nebraska. Temperatures in the low to mid 90s. Humid as hell. In a trip in town, the A/C turns from cold to warm. Checked to see if the A/C was accidentally bumped off. Nope. Took to dealer. Technician tells us that this is a big problem with 05 JGCs, and that the part will arrive in 7-10 days because there is so much demand for it. Great.

    10 BUSINESS days later (during which, the outdoor temp was consistently 95+ degrees) it was fixed. Two days after getting it back, turned on car (hottest day of the year thus far 101 degrees) and no air coming out. Nothing. Turned the fan blower speed to 2....nothing....3.....nothing....4 YES! It was cold air, however, it would only work if the fan was set at 4 (maximum). Same with the vent.

    Took it back to local dealership shop. They think it may be a quick fix. After sitting there for 2 hours, the techhnician asks me to follow him to the shop. As I get up, I notice that he has a melted piece of electronics in his hand. Here is what happened:

    Accorsing to the tech, the blower motor was drawing too many amps through the relay and resistor. This fouled out the relay, and melted it. It also destroyed the resistor, the blower motor and THE WIRING HARNESS.

    So...they have to replace the wiring harness, blower motor, relay, and resistor.

    I am glad that this did not occur on a trip. If they have to replace all this stuff, what else would have been melted/fried if I had not detected it in town?

    Best of all, when they fix this problem it may take 1-3 days. JEEP DOES NOT PROVIDE A RENTAL CAR FOR YOU. I have a 2004 Mazda 3s; when it went in for an issue, I had a rental car. The Mazda is $18,000. This Jeep is $30,000, and I don't get a rental car for their design flaw?

    I filed a complaint with Daimler-Chrysler, Chrysler Financial (get me out of this lease NOW) and the NHTSA for a safety complaint. We had a 2003 Liberty Sport that was turned in for this 2005 JGC hunk. The 03 Sport was a great vehicle. I really regret turning it in.

    By the way, the transmission stutter occurs occasionally still. Gave up on it. They have it on file with the first tech check. If the tranny blows, it's not my problem.

    In conclusion, I am trying to have Daimler-Chrysler take back my '05 JGC, and terminate my lease. I know that I will get a lot of resistance, but I think that it is time for consumers to stand up, and let D-C know that when one has a $30,000 2005 JGC with 5700 miles on it, one should be outraged, and should have an opportunity to return their hunk back to them. What are they afraid of? That they will sell/lease it to another customer who will be angry in the near future?

    It they are afraid to take back their vehicle, then the consumer should be afraid to buy/lease one.

    Tried to go with an American/German car. Will stick to Japanese in the future.

    Sorry this is so long, but if you have a similar story, I would like to know. At least I will know that I am not the only one out there.
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    You can find a post like this on EVERY manufacturer's forum.

    All cars have problems. The fact that you got a rental with your Mazda and not with the Jeep has to do with the dealership; not the manufacturer.
  • mtelseymtelsey Member Posts: 10
    yes, it has to do w/ the dealership. my 2005 jeep is in for repairs, tranny problem, and the dealership got me a rental car free of charge.
  • jaxsonsquaredjaxsonsquared Member Posts: 1
    Thank you for your in-depth mini-bio regarding this problem. I have a 96 JGC with just under 200k miles and have had ZERO problems until this week. However, this week has been a different matter with my having spent more time under the hood than I would have preferred due to the same symptoms you described. In the course of same I have replaced the plugs (2nd time since new), ignition wires, cap, rotor, coil, starter (unrelated). I took it yesterday to a shop that could supposedly run an engine diognostics test with results that were less than conclusive...fortunately they didn't charge me.

    As a result of your posting, tomorrow I have on my docket to replace both the crank and cam position sensors, assuming I am able to get them. Dallas heat is sometimes unbearable, but it is still the closest you can get to heaven without being in Colorado. So assuming that 100 degrees is not going to hamper my success, I'll be running before lunch. However, if you are able to extend any other suggestions regarding this problem, I would be more than grateful!
  • mtelseymtelsey Member Posts: 10
    update on the progress of this fix on my 2005 laredo. talked to the guy today, radiator did have a leak, but they also found that there is a bulletin, (not in their computers yet, had to call chrysler :confuse: ), which also may be the same bulletin that i have seen others talk about on here, that the a/c drainage was positioned to where it was draining right into the dipstick for the transmission. so they had to take that out, seal it, and replace it. it has been a week now that it has been in the shop, and i can't wait to get it back. driving a stratus as a rental, and i can't stand to be so close to the ground.
  • awmawm Member Posts: 1
    I recently traded in a 2003 Wrangler for a 2005 V6 Grand Cherokee Laredo. Can anyone tell me why the 05 GCL tow hitch wiring harness is so expensive ? It is priced approx $155, I can recall paying around $35 for the Wrangler wiring harness. I only tow a small open snow bear trailer to haul a ATV, it has no brakes and a 4 pin harness connector. Do I have to pay $155 for a 7 pin wiring harness plus $15 for a 7 to 4 pin adaptor, or is it possible to fit a 4 pin harness and save a few bucks ? Also are there any 2" tow hitches available where the rear bumper doesn't require cutting away and a bezel fitted ?
  • francogfrancog Member Posts: 2
    We bought our brand new 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo on 7/14/05. The next day we began to feel a juttering and vibration while on the freeway. Took it to the dealer, found that there is an issue on 05 Laredos in which the air conditioning drains into the transmission.

    Jeep engineers told the dealership to flush the transmission three times to fix the problem. When this did not work, engineers instructed the dealership to replace the torque converter. However, this is on backorder indefinitely. Besides that, we spoke to a transmission manufacturing company and were advised that the entire transmission may have been compromised, could give us problems later, and that the entire thing should be rebuilt or replaced. However, Jeep will only do this if, after the torque converter has been replaced, they are satisfied that the problem remains.

    So we are driving a rental while our brand new Jeep sits in a dealership parking lot. Who knows how long this process will take. Since this problem is a manufacturing defect, Jeep should replace the vehicle. Instead we are paying for an SUV that was faulty from day one and stuck waiting. Nice first-time new car experience.

    In the meantime neither Jeep Customer Service, nor our local dealership will give us our Jeep district manager's name. We have been totally stonewalled.

    If I could do it again, I would not have purchased the new, redesigned Jeep until they got it right. Our next vehicle will be anything besides a Chrysler.
  • mojomavenmojomaven Member Posts: 3
    2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.7L 20k

    I appreciate any assistance you may provide. I recently purchased the above vehicle and have been very content with it. However, recently I have noticed a squeaky noise when I hit a slight bump, emanating from the rear right quadrant of the car. It seems like it is around the right wheel. IN other words, as the car bounces, it squeaks with the bounce....a lot like jumping up and down on a bed. We brought it to the dealer (under warranty) and they lubed it, but the problem remains. Any suggestions or ideas about what might be wrong?

    Thanks for your help!
  • jepthingjepthing Member Posts: 1
    i replaced my batt. and the dealership told me it would cost $60.00 to reprogram it! what did it cost you' or can you find the codes yourself?
  • max31max31 Member Posts: 3
    Anyone having a problem with their brakes on the new JGC? Supposedly, the new JEEPs have a new rotor different from the past JEEPs (1999-2004) that had extreme problems warping. Curious.
  • asiandudeasiandude Member Posts: 13
    My '97 JGC encounters gentle rpm surging (repeatedly increasing approx 200 rpm then back again) when cruising at any constant speed. Kinda maddening! Has anyone any ideas how to fix this? My steering makes a noise and feels rough when slowly turning right - any cheap fix for this? Lastly, is it OK to use synthetic transmission fluid (eg. Mobil) instead of ATF+3? Advice gratefully received.
  • jeffbsgtjeffbsgt Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 JGC and my A/C is blowing hot air. When I first start it up the a/c blows cold. After 10 minutes or so the passenger side goes hot and not long after the drivers side does the same. It also occassionaly blows a fine mist out of the vent. Any ideas? I'd appreciate any and all help. Thanks.
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    You have one problem with your Jeep and you think Chrysler should give you a brand new vehicle instead of repairing it? What manufacturer in the world would do that?

    Yes, it's a bummer to have a problem on a new vehicle but you have to be reasonable. I can't believe you expect the dealer to give you your district manager's name.

    I'm sure you'll be one of those customers who jump from manufacturer to manufacturer until you find the perfect car. Good luck.
  • marleybarrmarleybarr Member Posts: 334
    I was thinking of purchasing a Jeep until coming across your post. Have you heard that the Limited has this specific problem? Sounds quite strange that Jeep won't put you in touch with the district manager! :cry:
  • ashesashes Member Posts: 1
    I'm Having the same problem with my older jeep grand cherokee. I can't get any radio stations to work. I'm just getting the err.....What is weird is that it was was working, then it wasn't, then it was, and now it's not again. Someone Please Help Me!
  • ggibsonggibson Member Posts: 2
    I posted here at the beginning of the month (post #1574) about my engine overheating. Since then, the rough idling has been worse, and the engine has cut out when coming to a stop sometimes. I brought it in to the dealer to get it diagnosed properly, and they gave me back a whole grocery list of things to fix! I have a feeling they're trying to fix a whole variety of things and don't know what's actually the main problem. Anyways, here's what is recommended to replace:

    Crankshaft position sensor (which I had replaced 25K ago) - $447
    Ignition coil (supposedly corroded) - $186
    Serpentine Belt (also replaced 25K ago), Water Pump, and Thermostat - $802
    Throttle Body - $140
    Spark Plugs, Distributor Cap, Rotor, Wires - $364
    Injectors - $150
    Shocks (starting to leak) - $408
    Steering Dampenor (starting to fail) - $206
    Powersteering Flush recommended - $160

    Total ~ $2865

    Ouch--that's half the value of my car, so it's a bit hard to swallow. Does anyone have any advice for me? The previous jeep dealer I brought my car to only charged me $193 to replace the Crankshaft position sensor, which is one reason I think they're trying to rip me off. Should I try a local mechanic for the work? Sorry if this isn't the right place for these questions. Thanks for any help!
  • gmijoe1gmijoe1 Member Posts: 3
    i have new tires, and they are fine. shocks are fine, all bushings are fine. i have no clue.
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    Couple of questions: How did the tires look that you replaced? Were they wearing evenly when you replaced them?
    Have you had an alignment done recently? My guess is it could be either an alignment or you lost a weight on one of your wheels that is causing the vibration in that particular speed range.
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    They are trying to rip you off. Not only do I highly doubt you would need to replace all of those components but the prices also look very high.
    I would definitely get a second opinion from an independent mechanic before throwing money at it.
    The one comment I would make is to have your shocks replaced if they are starting to leak to prevent also having to replace tires.
  • viperxcheatviperxcheat Member Posts: 1
    my 92 jeep cherokee makes an odd noise (sounds like an exaust leak) right under the car but only in the low gears and when i release the gas, could anyone tell me what this is or how to fix it? it would be much appreciated.
  • mstoverinkmstoverink Member Posts: 22
    I would agree...sounds like a rip off. Depending on the milage and when the last time things were done, I'd say a tune up wouldn't be a bad idea, and deffinately replace the shocks. The thermostat and water pump always seem to be at the top of the list of culprits when the engine overheats so that seems reasonable. But if you just replace the serp. belt 25k miles ago that should not need to be replace unless you took a knife to it...it may need adjusting but not replacing. The prices seem high also, but that should be no surprise considering it's from the dealer. Absolutely talk to other local mechanics. I've always had good luck with non-chain (individually owned) shops. The individually owned places usually survive on word of mouth advertising so they have more to lose and (in my experience) usually give better service. Good luck.
  • reddog4reddog4 Member Posts: 2
    I was experiencing the same problem with my 1995 JGC. I have roughly 150K w/ a 4.0L, replaced most all the sensors and cleaned the throttle body. It did some good but it would continue to stall sporadically. I began to tug at the harness one afternoon and discovered that the engine would stall when I pulled on the wire harness connected to the PCM behind the overflow reservoir. I went to the junk yard and got a used PCM for $35. It hasn't stalled since and it runs much better on the highway.
  • raywi1raywi1 Member Posts: 4
    I have had similar problems but the condensate was entering through the firewall. The way the water was leaving the pipe allowed it to run down the pipe and back into the firewall. From there it is running under the floor boards until it stops under the right rear seat. The discharge tube is difficult to see but is in the box beam behind the shock well. There is a 2 inch hole through which you can see the drip. I used a couple of rubber groments and fit them over the end of the tube and slide them down about an inch. That stopped the back flow.
  • jeepsrjunkjeepsrjunk Member Posts: 1
    I just had the same thing happened to my 2005 Grand Cherokee Limited at 10K miles. Water was in the transmission. Haynes Jeep in Richmond, VA said it came from a hole in the top of the dipstick, and I knew that was a bunch of crap. Maybe if I drove it in a hurricane with the hood off. They know about the problem but don't want to admit it because it will affect new car sales if they get a bad reputation. The part about the tourque converter being on back order is true, I have no idea when I'm getting mine back. My advice is to stay away from Jeeps and Haynes Jeep in Richmond, VA. If you have to get one, buy the service plan that gives you a loaner car when yours is in for service because 2005 Jeeps do not have a loaner plan from the factory.
  • jdsemberjdsember Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem-found that the antenna wire has an extension cable with a connector that was loose. Remove the right kick panel and check the antenna cable.
  • janzjanz Member Posts: 129
    The ERR message from the original poster was from the CD changer not changing out and playing discs, not the radio. Mine does the same thing.

    The research I've done on this is that 1) the unit needs cleaned as the laser is not reading the discs, or 2) the motor or drive that changes the discs in and out is the problem, possibly due to miss aligned gears. I've not tried anything yet.
  • diane7diane7 Member Posts: 6
    This all started about two weeks ago when my husband charged the a/c. It had been idling a little rough but after the a/c was charged it started stalling out and when I hit the gas to go it hesitates and will not accelerate and also there was a tapping sound on the floor when I did hit the gas. It happens at red lights or any time I have to stop. It seems to be getting progressively worse. It won't run good on the highway anymore. I don't know if the a/c is related at all, it might just be a coincedence. Also there is a bad whine/screetch when I hit the gas. My husband changed the serpentine belt and tightened it so I dont' know if that is part of it, but it's screeetching again and worse than before. I read on another website that the rough idle could be the IAC (idle air control) motor. Any suggestions? I would appreciate any help. I am scheduled to bring it to the dealer but they're booked until Tuesday. The hot weather has lots of cars breaking down unfortunately.
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    It sounds like there is an issue with the serpentine belt. The "screetching" is likely a loose belt. That belt probably also goes over the alternator pulley which may have an effect on the driveability of the vehicle.
  • diane7diane7 Member Posts: 6
    Yes. I'm thinking there is a deeper problem with the belt. Maybe something that won't let it stay tight. Thanks for the quick response!! This is a great site!

    Here's the latest: I drove it today for about 30 minutes without the a/c and it drove fine. It didn't do the idling thing or stall at all. The belt still screetched a little but not near as bad. Now I suspect an a/c related problem. Still scratching my head over this one.
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    Hmmmm, possibly a bad A/C compressor. It may be time to take it in to have it diagnosed. I don't believe you mentioned the year of the vehicle but it could be bad. The clutch does not engage when the A/C is not running (except in defrost when the A/C will run at times) so the fact that it does not screetch with the A/C off leads me to think the compressor may be bad.
    I'd try an independent A/C shop to see what they say.
  • diane7diane7 Member Posts: 6
    Very good! Thanks PaulE!! I'm just gonna have to sweat driving without a/c until Tuesday!! Will let you know what happens. Thanks again.
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