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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

15051535556165

Comments

  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    P0301 means a misfire was detected in cylinder #1. Changing the spark plugs should have fixed the problem but there may be something else causing a misfire or there is a problem with the sensor itself. Here's a complete list of fault codes for the JGC.

    tidester, host
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    I think the '99 and '00 models were the most problematic. They get better the newer you get.
    The '98-'99 Cherokees are probably pretty darn good especially with the 4.0 L engine.
    I don't really care for the styling of the Cherokees in contrast to the Grand Cherokees but I think they're fairly reliable with some small issues.
    Anything up around 100k is probably worth taking to a mechanic to pay him $50 or so to check it out before putting your hard earned money on it.
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    You might want to check your tires to see if they are "cupping" on either the inside or outside edges.
    If that is the case, I'd check shocks to start with and other suspension components from that point on.
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    No, you should not have to back up to remove it from 4WD. If it is stuck in 4WD, odds are pretty good it has rarely been used and the adjustment cable is probably out of adjustment hence it is not shifting back out of 4WD.
  • ccook2ccook2 Posts: 3
    the fan relay is prob gone had same issue, 65$ from jeep dealer located under battery and headlight...friend had same issue
  • ccook2ccook2 Posts: 3
    it is under the battery near the headlight
  • ccook2ccook2 Posts: 3
    I had the same problem, check the door frames seals. they are the trim that runs along the inside body of the door. mine shrank I was able to stretch them an applied some glue to the inside took me a half hour to complete....
  • kaceywaykaceyway Posts: 3
    Thanks!!! I will print off the codes and see what happens this time around. I haven't heard anything yet and now it is going on day four without my jeep. If they find a resolution, I will post it. -kaceyway
  • Be awfully careful with that. I just had the shock of my life to find out that my V6 05 JGC had eletrical equipment melt under my glove box. We had an A/C problem...the problem was no cold air. Great problem in Nebraska in 90+ degree heat. Told by dealership that this was an "extremely common" problem in 05 JGCs. Part would take 7-10 business days to arrive. Fixed on July 18th.

    On July 20th, the fan blower (for climate control inside vehicle) would not work on settings 1, 2, and 3. Only on 4. This tends to interfere with conversations, and is downright annoying.

    Took to dealership on same day. Technician discovered that the blower motor was drawing too many amps through the relay, and melted it. I am told that they have to order (1) A new blower motor (2) A new relay (3) A new resistor, and (4) a NEW WIRING HARNESS.

    Adding insult to injury is that when the parts come in, it will take 1-3 days to fix. Jeep does not provide a rental for you. So, my $30,000 SUV will be disabled soon, and I am out of money for a rental.

    I have filed a complaint with Daimler/Chrysler and have filed a safety complaint with NHTSA.gov. If this happened on the road, what else with the electrical system could have melted?

    Beware. This could get worse for you.
  • Leasing a 2005 JGC Laredo V6. Started 39 month lease in Jan 05. Noticing a little stutter in transmission. Kind of a flutter...like it is deciding which gear to go into. Took to dealership. No problems found. No idea on why it did that.

    Fast forward to first week in July in Nebraska. Temperatures in the low to mid 90s. Humid as hell. In a trip in town, the A/C turns from cold to warm. Checked to see if the A/C was accidentally bumped off. Nope. Took to dealer. Technician tells us that this is a big problem with 05 JGCs, and that the part will arrive in 7-10 days because there is so much demand for it. Great.

    10 BUSINESS days later (during which, the outdoor temp was consistently 95+ degrees) it was fixed. Two days after getting it back, turned on car (hottest day of the year thus far 101 degrees) and no air coming out. Nothing. Turned the fan blower speed to 2....nothing....3.....nothing....4 YES! It was cold air, however, it would only work if the fan was set at 4 (maximum). Same with the vent.

    Took it back to local dealership shop. They think it may be a quick fix. After sitting there for 2 hours, the techhnician asks me to follow him to the shop. As I get up, I notice that he has a melted piece of electronics in his hand. Here is what happened:

    Accorsing to the tech, the blower motor was drawing too many amps through the relay and resistor. This fouled out the relay, and melted it. It also destroyed the resistor, the blower motor and THE WIRING HARNESS.

    So...they have to replace the wiring harness, blower motor, relay, and resistor.

    I am glad that this did not occur on a trip. If they have to replace all this stuff, what else would have been melted/fried if I had not detected it in town?

    Best of all, when they fix this problem it may take 1-3 days. JEEP DOES NOT PROVIDE A RENTAL CAR FOR YOU. I have a 2004 Mazda 3s; when it went in for an issue, I had a rental car. The Mazda is $18,000. This Jeep is $30,000, and I don't get a rental car for their design flaw?

    I filed a complaint with Daimler-Chrysler, Chrysler Financial (get me out of this lease NOW) and the NHTSA for a safety complaint. We had a 2003 Liberty Sport that was turned in for this 2005 JGC hunk. The 03 Sport was a great vehicle. I really regret turning it in.

    By the way, the transmission stutter occurs occasionally still. Gave up on it. They have it on file with the first tech check. If the tranny blows, it's not my problem.

    In conclusion, I am trying to have Daimler-Chrysler take back my '05 JGC, and terminate my lease. I know that I will get a lot of resistance, but I think that it is time for consumers to stand up, and let D-C know that when one has a $30,000 2005 JGC with 5700 miles on it, one should be outraged, and should have an opportunity to return their hunk back to them. What are they afraid of? That they will sell/lease it to another customer who will be angry in the near future?

    It they are afraid to take back their vehicle, then the consumer should be afraid to buy/lease one.

    Tried to go with an American/German car. Will stick to Japanese in the future.

    Sorry this is so long, but if you have a similar story, I would like to know. At least I will know that I am not the only one out there.
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    You can find a post like this on EVERY manufacturer's forum.

    All cars have problems. The fact that you got a rental with your Mazda and not with the Jeep has to do with the dealership; not the manufacturer.
  • mtelseymtelsey Posts: 10
    yes, it has to do w/ the dealership. my 2005 jeep is in for repairs, tranny problem, and the dealership got me a rental car free of charge.
  • Thank you for your in-depth mini-bio regarding this problem. I have a 96 JGC with just under 200k miles and have had ZERO problems until this week. However, this week has been a different matter with my having spent more time under the hood than I would have preferred due to the same symptoms you described. In the course of same I have replaced the plugs (2nd time since new), ignition wires, cap, rotor, coil, starter (unrelated). I took it yesterday to a shop that could supposedly run an engine diognostics test with results that were less than conclusive...fortunately they didn't charge me.

    As a result of your posting, tomorrow I have on my docket to replace both the crank and cam position sensors, assuming I am able to get them. Dallas heat is sometimes unbearable, but it is still the closest you can get to heaven without being in Colorado. So assuming that 100 degrees is not going to hamper my success, I'll be running before lunch. However, if you are able to extend any other suggestions regarding this problem, I would be more than grateful!
  • mtelseymtelsey Posts: 10
    update on the progress of this fix on my 2005 laredo. talked to the guy today, radiator did have a leak, but they also found that there is a bulletin, (not in their computers yet, had to call chrysler :confuse: ), which also may be the same bulletin that i have seen others talk about on here, that the a/c drainage was positioned to where it was draining right into the dipstick for the transmission. so they had to take that out, seal it, and replace it. it has been a week now that it has been in the shop, and i can't wait to get it back. driving a stratus as a rental, and i can't stand to be so close to the ground.
  • awmawm Posts: 1
    I recently traded in a 2003 Wrangler for a 2005 V6 Grand Cherokee Laredo. Can anyone tell me why the 05 GCL tow hitch wiring harness is so expensive ? It is priced approx $155, I can recall paying around $35 for the Wrangler wiring harness. I only tow a small open snow bear trailer to haul a ATV, it has no brakes and a 4 pin harness connector. Do I have to pay $155 for a 7 pin wiring harness plus $15 for a 7 to 4 pin adaptor, or is it possible to fit a 4 pin harness and save a few bucks ? Also are there any 2" tow hitches available where the rear bumper doesn't require cutting away and a bezel fitted ?
  • francogfrancog Posts: 2
    We bought our brand new 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo on 7/14/05. The next day we began to feel a juttering and vibration while on the freeway. Took it to the dealer, found that there is an issue on 05 Laredos in which the air conditioning drains into the transmission.

    Jeep engineers told the dealership to flush the transmission three times to fix the problem. When this did not work, engineers instructed the dealership to replace the torque converter. However, this is on backorder indefinitely. Besides that, we spoke to a transmission manufacturing company and were advised that the entire transmission may have been compromised, could give us problems later, and that the entire thing should be rebuilt or replaced. However, Jeep will only do this if, after the torque converter has been replaced, they are satisfied that the problem remains.

    So we are driving a rental while our brand new Jeep sits in a dealership parking lot. Who knows how long this process will take. Since this problem is a manufacturing defect, Jeep should replace the vehicle. Instead we are paying for an SUV that was faulty from day one and stuck waiting. Nice first-time new car experience.

    In the meantime neither Jeep Customer Service, nor our local dealership will give us our Jeep district manager's name. We have been totally stonewalled.

    If I could do it again, I would not have purchased the new, redesigned Jeep until they got it right. Our next vehicle will be anything besides a Chrysler.
  • mojomavenmojomaven Posts: 3
    2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.7L 20k

    I appreciate any assistance you may provide. I recently purchased the above vehicle and have been very content with it. However, recently I have noticed a squeaky noise when I hit a slight bump, emanating from the rear right quadrant of the car. It seems like it is around the right wheel. IN other words, as the car bounces, it squeaks with the bounce....a lot like jumping up and down on a bed. We brought it to the dealer (under warranty) and they lubed it, but the problem remains. Any suggestions or ideas about what might be wrong?

    Thanks for your help!
  • jepthingjepthing Posts: 1
    i replaced my batt. and the dealership told me it would cost $60.00 to reprogram it! what did it cost you' or can you find the codes yourself?
  • max31max31 Posts: 3
    Anyone having a problem with their brakes on the new JGC? Supposedly, the new JEEPs have a new rotor different from the past JEEPs (1999-2004) that had extreme problems warping. Curious.
  • asiandudeasiandude Posts: 13
    My '97 JGC encounters gentle rpm surging (repeatedly increasing approx 200 rpm then back again) when cruising at any constant speed. Kinda maddening! Has anyone any ideas how to fix this? My steering makes a noise and feels rough when slowly turning right - any cheap fix for this? Lastly, is it OK to use synthetic transmission fluid (eg. Mobil) instead of ATF+3? Advice gratefully received.
  • jeffbsgtjeffbsgt Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 JGC and my A/C is blowing hot air. When I first start it up the a/c blows cold. After 10 minutes or so the passenger side goes hot and not long after the drivers side does the same. It also occassionaly blows a fine mist out of the vent. Any ideas? I'd appreciate any and all help. Thanks.
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    You have one problem with your Jeep and you think Chrysler should give you a brand new vehicle instead of repairing it? What manufacturer in the world would do that?

    Yes, it's a bummer to have a problem on a new vehicle but you have to be reasonable. I can't believe you expect the dealer to give you your district manager's name.

    I'm sure you'll be one of those customers who jump from manufacturer to manufacturer until you find the perfect car. Good luck.
  • marleybarrmarleybarr Posts: 334
    I was thinking of purchasing a Jeep until coming across your post. Have you heard that the Limited has this specific problem? Sounds quite strange that Jeep won't put you in touch with the district manager! :cry:
  • ashesashes Posts: 1
    I'm Having the same problem with my older jeep grand cherokee. I can't get any radio stations to work. I'm just getting the err.....What is weird is that it was was working, then it wasn't, then it was, and now it's not again. Someone Please Help Me!
  • ggibsonggibson Posts: 2
    I posted here at the beginning of the month (post #1574) about my engine overheating. Since then, the rough idling has been worse, and the engine has cut out when coming to a stop sometimes. I brought it in to the dealer to get it diagnosed properly, and they gave me back a whole grocery list of things to fix! I have a feeling they're trying to fix a whole variety of things and don't know what's actually the main problem. Anyways, here's what is recommended to replace:

    Crankshaft position sensor (which I had replaced 25K ago) - $447
    Ignition coil (supposedly corroded) - $186
    Serpentine Belt (also replaced 25K ago), Water Pump, and Thermostat - $802
    Throttle Body - $140
    Spark Plugs, Distributor Cap, Rotor, Wires - $364
    Injectors - $150
    Shocks (starting to leak) - $408
    Steering Dampenor (starting to fail) - $206
    Powersteering Flush recommended - $160

    Total ~ $2865

    Ouch--that's half the value of my car, so it's a bit hard to swallow. Does anyone have any advice for me? The previous jeep dealer I brought my car to only charged me $193 to replace the Crankshaft position sensor, which is one reason I think they're trying to rip me off. Should I try a local mechanic for the work? Sorry if this isn't the right place for these questions. Thanks for any help!
  • gmijoe1gmijoe1 Posts: 3
    i have new tires, and they are fine. shocks are fine, all bushings are fine. i have no clue.
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    Couple of questions: How did the tires look that you replaced? Were they wearing evenly when you replaced them?
    Have you had an alignment done recently? My guess is it could be either an alignment or you lost a weight on one of your wheels that is causing the vibration in that particular speed range.
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    They are trying to rip you off. Not only do I highly doubt you would need to replace all of those components but the prices also look very high.
    I would definitely get a second opinion from an independent mechanic before throwing money at it.
    The one comment I would make is to have your shocks replaced if they are starting to leak to prevent also having to replace tires.
  • my 92 jeep cherokee makes an odd noise (sounds like an exaust leak) right under the car but only in the low gears and when i release the gas, could anyone tell me what this is or how to fix it? it would be much appreciated.
  • mstoverinkmstoverink Posts: 22
    I would agree...sounds like a rip off. Depending on the milage and when the last time things were done, I'd say a tune up wouldn't be a bad idea, and deffinately replace the shocks. The thermostat and water pump always seem to be at the top of the list of culprits when the engine overheats so that seems reasonable. But if you just replace the serp. belt 25k miles ago that should not need to be replace unless you took a knife to it...it may need adjusting but not replacing. The prices seem high also, but that should be no surprise considering it's from the dealer. Absolutely talk to other local mechanics. I've always had good luck with non-chain (individually owned) shops. The individually owned places usually survive on word of mouth advertising so they have more to lose and (in my experience) usually give better service. Good luck.
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