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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • blkhemiblkhemi Member Posts: 1,717
    Did you check the fuel pump? With your Jeep wanting to stall, it's either the pump or the Fuel Pressure Regulator.
  • mrdesquiremrdesquire Member Posts: 1
    I just had someone tell me the same thing about my JGC. My lights are in the auto position and they have begun to go on without my doing anything. Mine is a 2000 and it just began this past year. Can't tell you why it is happening. I have turned my lights off auto.
  • jeepinjoeszjjeepinjoeszj Member Posts: 27
    I have a '94 Grand Cherokee. It has appx 220,000 miles on the original 5.2L V8. I recently found an oil leak on the passenger side of the motor, I cannot however pinpoint exactly where it is coming from. I've changed my vavle cover gaskets(I don't know how I did it) but that did nothing. I've heard that it could be the Oil Pressure Switch. However, I own the Haynes Repair Manual and it has nothing in it about the oil pressure switch or an oil sending unit. If anyone happens to know or have had a similar problem and know the solution PLEASE let me know.
  • elleonelleon Member Posts: 4
    The auto mechanic states they checked the fuel pump with some sort of tester but I'm not so sure they did. I checked the prices and the fuel pump is about $250 and the fuel pressure regulator is $90. Maybe I'll change the FPR first then go for the fuel pump. I wish there was a way to test them before I go out and buy them first.
  • jeepinjoeszjjeepinjoeszj Member Posts: 27
    Is it doing it throughout driving speeds? Primarily when driving not when starting out? If so I believe I am having the same problem. And if I am not mistaken it is the O2 sensor or less likely the EGR(Exhaust Gas Recirculator). Are you smelling a strong fuel odor when it happens? It will do what you described if the engine is getting too much fuel and not enough air. Too much fuel will bogg down the motor making it feel like its hesitating and the engine sound will die but the RPMs will stay the same. The EGR recirculates the gas and air mixture that hasn't burned, and the O2 sensor will tell the computer how much fuel to pump into the intake. More if its reading lean, less if its reading rich, so I would say check your O2 sensor first and then your EGR, they are both about $60 bucks each. If it were your fuel pump it would do it mainly when you start out from a stop.
  • blkhemiblkhemi Member Posts: 1,717
    unfortunately, there aren't many ways to test a fpr except isf your car runs fine when cold outside and horrible when hot, then usually its the fpr. FPR's are sensitive to temps outside. But it is a good idea to start with the fuel filter, then fpr and pump.
  • tdad71302tdad71302 Member Posts: 18
    my 95 jgc is squeaking like crazy. it seems like the belt isn't tight enough but i've tightened it a few times. and it seems like it could be coming from the power steering pump. but the pump is only a few months old. anyone have any ideas?
  • acuerdoacuerdo Member Posts: 3
    Hi,

    I was wondering whether some of you can provide me with valuable advice. My GrandAm GT V6's meters (speedmeter etc.), they all jump from one side to the other even the motor itself is turned off -the key is just turned-. I have taken the car to a mechanic, he has taken a look at the fuse, also taken out the dash board etc., but, he cannot find the problem. He thinks it might be a mere miscontact but doesn't know where.

    I'd be happy if you could help and I would really apprecite it.

    Thank you!
  • acuerdoacuerdo Member Posts: 3
    Hi,

    I was wondering whether some of you can provide me with valuable advice. My GrandAm GT V6's meters (speedmeter etc.), they all jump from one side to the other even the motor itself is turned off -the key is just turned-. I have taken the car to a mechanic, he has taken a look at the fuse, also taken out the dash board etc., but, he cannot find the problem. He thinks it might be a mere miscontact but doesn't know where.

    I'd be happy if you could help and I would really apprecite it.

    Thank you!
  • jeepinjoeszjjeepinjoeszj Member Posts: 27
    Check the pulleys, mine was doing something like that I have a 94, I changed the tensioner and the idler pulleys that took care of mine.
  • jeepinjoeszjjeepinjoeszj Member Posts: 27
    Does it do it while driving? I think its normal on GM vehicles to "reset" the guages when the ignition is turned on.
  • tdad71302tdad71302 Member Posts: 18
    thanks for the input.
  • brandy2brandy2 Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I can't get the boys at Car Talk to call me back so I'm hoping someone here can help me. My 95 Jeep Grand Cherokee dies all the time while I'm driving. I've had it in to the mechanic he has taken it out and it has died on him but he doesn't know what it wrong with it. He says it has to get worse before he can figure it out. That sounds like a bunch of junk to me. I replaced the fuel filter in April and that seemed to help but didn't solve the problem. Sometimes I have to turn the key several times to get it started and sometimes it dies within seconds of starting. Most often it will die when I'm coasting to a stop but it has started to die when I'm driving at low speeds either leaving me stranded in the middle of traffic or sometimes if I just keep giving it gas it will pop back on kinda like when you pop the clutch to roll start a manual transmission. It also doesn't seem to matter if I have been driving for 30 or 3 minutes and some days it doesn't happend. This problem has really started in April so I don't know if it is worse or better in cold weather. So far it hasn't happened when driving at high speed (above 45) but I really would like to fix it before that happens. In this current tank of gas I have but in some fuel injector cleaner and that hasn't make a difference. My dad suggested changing the fuel filter again and if that didn't work change the fuel pump. His suggestions are just a crap shoot and I'd rather not spend those kind of bucks without knowing for sure what's going on here. I could really use some imput here. THANKS!!!!
  • jeepinjoeszjjeepinjoeszj Member Posts: 27
    Go under the hood in the relay box and check your relays to see if they are in place. When I replaced my fuel pump I removed the relay to make sure there wasn't power to it and I didn't put it back in all the way. My jeep would die for NO REASON. I would recommend buying the Haynes repair manual its helped me TREMENDOUSLY. If that doesn't do it check your electrical connections to your motor to your fuel pump and to your battery. I hope that fixes it for ya. Oh, and after that if those don't fix the problem then def. check the fuel pump.
  • v8neverlatev8neverlate Member Posts: 1
    This may be an intermittently lazy fuel pump. My 94 GC 6cyl had the same symptoms. Usually a fuel pump either works or it doesn't. In this case I monitored the fuel pressure and found it to be okay for a while, then too low. I dropped the tank and installed a new Fuel pump and the problem was solved. Go ahead and buy a fuel pressure tester (they're not too expensive) and be prepared to use it next time the problem occurs.
  • riddlemeeriddlemee Member Posts: 1
    Please help...... My husband brought me a 1994 jgc for my anniver. however it does not have a owners manual. and I have no clue to what all the gadgets do. also the anntena will not go up and my radio station fades in and out... my radio and cd and airconditioner turns off when ever any of the doors except the drivers door is open. I am clueless. Where would i go to get a manual. and does the radio keep going out sound like a short somewhere? :blush:
  • tmbrwntmbrwn Member Posts: 1
    I bought it just last year and the break would sqeek(sp?) ha..anyways i had to get all new roters and break pads, because something was "leaking on it". Well that lasted for maybe 2 months. I hear a little sqeeking when i do short fast stops. I just had the roters changed again but i forget the reason this time. Sorry but i dont really remember. I do not want to pay another $1300 to get all of the roters re-done and it happen again. What could be the problem? Im clue-less on cars. Is it something big or should i just change a few things down there. If its gonna be an on going project should i just trade it in...which will be worth nothing because of gas prices or idk ..SOME ONE PLEASE HELP ME!!!! thanks tim

    sorry for all the miss spelling of car parts..im really bad with cars
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    sorry for all the miss spelling of car parts..im really bad with cars

    Our completely free spell checker below will help with a lot of that! :)

    tidester, host
  • 95er95er Member Posts: 6
    Don't know if it's the same issue but I have a '95 J G C Laredo and it also would die on me most while idling or slowing down or coasting. For example if I am driving through my neighborhood and coasting around a turn it may die on me. I found myself having to throw into neutral and feathering the gas to keep it running then put it back in gear while in motion when I wanted to accelerate again.
    It turned out to be the "chip" which regulates the idle level. I had that changed and it works fine now. Forget the cost.
    Hope that may help.
  • 95er95er Member Posts: 6
    blkhemi,
    You were right it turned out to be my transfer case. Although I never really used 4WD low. A pad inside the transfer case had warn and created play which took the gears out of place. Unfortunately the clunk and banging was this play slamming back into place but also caused damage to my transmission and put metal shavings throughout the tranny and transfer case. I decided since it feels my engine is in good shape to master rebuild both. Costly!...but if I can get another 50-100K out if it, it'll be worth it.
    Thanks so much for your response!!!
  • 95er95er Member Posts: 6
    Don't know if it's the same issue but I have a '95 J G C Laredo and it also would die on me most while idling or slowing down or coasting. For example if I am driving through my neighborhood and coasting around a turn it may die on me. I found myself having to throw into neutral and feathering the gas to keep it running then put it back in gear while in motion when I wanted to accelerate again.
    It turned out to be the "chip" which regulates the idle level. I had that changed and it works fine now. Forget the cost.
    Hope that may help
  • 95er95er Member Posts: 6
    (3rd time posting same response but may be the same issue for you too...)
    Don't know if it's the same issue but I have a '95 J G C Laredo and it also would die on me most while idling or slowing down or coasting. For example if I am driving through my neighborhood and coasting around a turn it may die on me. I found myself having to throw into neutral and feathering the gas to keep it running then put it back in gear while in motion when I wanted to accelerate again.
    It turned out to be the "chip" which regulates the idle level. I had that changed and it works fine now. Forget the cost.
    Hope that may help
  • 95er95er Member Posts: 6
    Note: I am not a Jeep or car expert.....but it may be your on-board "computer". I know my 95 JGC is all electronic control. So when the temperature is sensed to be high, the on-board microcontroller turns on the fan and cooling system to keep the temperature right. If all the "mechanical" cooling parts of your Jeep is all good, most likely it is the electronic controller. A good Jeep mechanic can run an quick dianogstic on your computer to see if there are any error codes and such. That may need a simple reset or worse case replacing. Dunno?
    Hope that helps.
  • jhuckjhuck Member Posts: 17
    I had the same problem as of this morning. As long as I am giving the engine gas the oil pressure is great. But as I sat in line at the school the oil pressure went down to zero. At the traffic light on the way home I put it in park and lightly gave it gas and the oil pressure maintained as good level.
    It is a 2000 Jeep Grand with about 80K miles.
  • penquicwpenquicw Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I am having a problem with my 1998 Jeep cherokee. It makes a rumbling sound when I start the car and now after I drive it for a little while there is a burnt rubber smell and when I stop the car you can see smoke. I took it to the mechanic who said that the compressor is locked up. I thought that the compressor had to do with air conditioning. Is there more to it than that and why does it over heat if I am not using the air conditioning? The mechanic wants to replace it (which seems expensive) and I wondered if there are other options that might be out there. Thank you
    Craig
  • blkhemiblkhemi Member Posts: 1,717
    I'm glad I could help out. Good luck! You're right. It's going to be costly but look at this way, you won't have to buy a new Jeep.
  • blkhemiblkhemi Member Posts: 1,717
    You may have one of two problems: the sending unit or the oil pump. The sending unit controls the oil pressure gauge, and when it drops to a pre-determined level, the check gauges light and chime will appear. This is the less serious of the two. If it is the oil pump, then you must get it serviced pronto. Unfortunately, both the sending unit and pump show the same signs when you are driving. But you'll know when it is the pump because you'll hear those valves ticking because they are starved for lubrication. WARNING: YOU DO NOT WANT TO WAIT TILL THIS HAPPENS! Take it from me, as I've destroyed my '95 JGC V8 motor because of this. Is your JGC 4.0 or 4.7L ? If it's the 4.0, chances are it's the sending unit. But get both checked anyway. I wish the best of luck to you.
  • xscoutxscout Member Posts: 141
    It would be most unusual for the compressor pulley to be locked up when the A/C is off(make sure you are not in defrost mode either). If that is the problem you can get around it cheap by buying a belt for a non-A/C equipped JGC and bypassing the compressor. Of course you would have no A/C this way. I would try removing the belt first to see if the compressor pulley is locked up. The pulley should spin free and smooth with no wobble with the car turned off. Did I understand you to say the vehicle over heats too?
  • jeeproverjeeprover Member Posts: 17
    I have a 2005 WK with the 3.7 and NAG1 5 speed automatic.
    Problem 1
    Two weeks ago the "check engine" light came on. The dealer says it is caused by the shift sensor and ordered PN 52124137AB. (I cannot find this part on the web). They told me the part is on backorder with no relief in sight -- because a lot of jeeps are having this problem. The service rep told me this is a newly-designed part -- and that there is a TSB out on this problem. I can't find this TSB on the WK web page http://www.wkjeeps.com/wk_tsb.htm. So I am driving around with the check engine light on... Any of this sound familiar? Has anyone else had this problem?
    Problem 2
    Recently, the transmission began not shifting down into 1st gear at every stop. It sometimes starts out in second or third, and when I give it the gas, revs up to 2500-3000 RPM then slams down into 1st gear and takes off. Sometimes, when pulling up to a stop, it really thunks down into low gear. Both of these things happen about one time in five or six stops. Any ideas? Is this transmission (NAG1 - W5A580) prone to these kinds of problems? Anyone else having problems like this? Is problem 1 related to problem 2? Arrrrghhh.
  • jlf999jlf999 Member Posts: 4
    I am having similar problem with my '99. It has been in the shop one month!
    The instrument cluster was replaced originally but it worked for only a day. Has anyone found a solution!
  • jlf999jlf999 Member Posts: 4
    My 99 jeep grand cherokee has been at the dealer a month--instrument cluster replaced, BCM replaced-still no fix. Gauges, ac cooling, windows do not work.
  • blkhemiblkhemi Member Posts: 1,717
    Can't help with the Check Engine light, but there is a recall issued for the transmission problem that you are experiencing. Take your vehicle IMMEDIATELY to the dealer as the problem associated with the tranny could eventually end up in your vehicle catching on fire. This recall involves the air-conditioning water dripping into the dipstick opening of your tranny, causing slippage and water directly into the tranny. The tranny can be worked so hard to the point of overheating, hence the eventual fire.
  • jeepcavalierjeepcavalier Member Posts: 1
    Hello,

    I have a '97 V8, and lately the auto transmission has not shifted well into 5th gear, so it hovers around 2000 rpm above 50 mph or so. Also, I started hearing a soft thwack, thwack sound while idling or driving - slower when idling, faster when driving. It seems to be coming from the upper engine.

    It sounds as if a piece of thin plastic were set up so that a rotating gear or something hits it as it spins. Think Wheel of Fortune when the wheel spins, but a softer sound.

    I'm worried it's a serious engine problem, and since I'm moving from the east to west coasts, I'm trying to sell it, so I'd like to know what's going on.

    Thanks, anyone, for your thoughts.
  • brandy2brandy2 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the imput, would this "chip" problem show up if the mechanic ran a diagnostic? He did and nothing come up.
  • jimbo611jimbo611 Member Posts: 6
    Anyone have any idea what a shade tree mechanic would charge to replace the front and rear oil seals? I posted something before about this Jeep and got help,I would appreciate any help for this 4qt user between changes..

    Jimbo71
  • jeepinjoeszjjeepinjoeszj Member Posts: 27
    Are you sure it is the seals? Which V8 is it? I know the 5.2 is notorious for burning off oil due to valve guide seals. And mine burned off about 3-4 qts between changes and I change the thermostat to a lower temp one and that stoped. Make sure it is/isn't the Front & Rear main, the seal kits aren't much but the labor will probably be high.
  • elleonelleon Member Posts: 4
    OK, I jumped ahead of myself. I was trying to be methodical and change each possible part individually to see what the fix was. But, I changed the fuel pressure regulator AND the fuel pump at the same time and VOILA problem fixed. I just don't know now if it was the FPR or the FP.

    Anyway, now I have a strange huming sound coming from what sounds is the fuel pump. I've never heard this sound before. I did notice that when I changed out the fuel pumps the old one had 3 electrical wires hooked up to it and the new one had only 2. I'm not too worried right now cause the Jeep runs perfectly, no misses, no chugging, etc.... But I'd still like to know if I need to be concerned about the sound. Any ideas about the huming sound?
  • jimbo611jimbo611 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks,it is a 5.2, I have been told that it is the front and rear main seals.
    The dealer would burn me with his cost,why i am looking for a shade tree..Excuse my being dumb but was it the regular thermostat you changed and that stopped the oil leak??

    Jimbo71
  • jeepinjoeszjjeepinjoeszj Member Posts: 27
    If its just like a little higher pitched whine then no you shouldn't worry. That is just the fuel pump working, I noticed the same thing when I changed mine. You either become numb to that sound or it will go away as the pump breaks in.
  • jeepinjoeszjjeepinjoeszj Member Posts: 27
    It was the engine coolant's thermostat, I got a lower temp one than the "normal" and it allowed my engine to run cooler allowing the oil to be cooler so it wouldn't burn off. It really reduced that 318(5.2L) trade mark blue smoke. Now if you notice little drops of oil under your jeep then I would be concerned that it is the front/rear oil seals. A good way to check for this is to get about a 3'x3' piece of cardboard and place it under your car when you park it in your drive way label the front and the back, you will then be able to more accurately locate a leak, if that is what it is. If nothing else you'll have a better motor in the long run if you keep fresh oil in it instead of fixing the oil consumption problem. But definetely check to see if you have a leak(s). Check for the signs around the valve covers, with the engine cold run your fingers around the base of the valve cover gasket, if you get oil on your fingers you have a leak there. Look that the motor, if there is oil, not just dust particles all over then you look for a trail. You looking for these signs could save you a whole lotta money.
  • elleonelleon Member Posts: 4
    The gauge in my honda jumped up to the H and went down again. It's done this a couple of times and I've seems to have stopped now. The water level in the radiator is fine. The car has about 70K miles on it. Any idea what could be causing the irregular fluctuation?
  • mike20878mike20878 Member Posts: 60
    My 2002 JGC's A/C has been acting up lately. It frequently stops blowing for about 10 seconds at a time and then mysteriously comes back on. I think it's the fan as I can still hear the A/C running. I saw some previous posts reference a resistor problem, but I believe their blowers were completely dead. I assume mine is starting to fail. I figured I would run it by the dealer first in case there was any kind of extended warranty on it, but I by no means trust their word and would then go to my trusted local shop.

    Thanks,
    Mike
  • jackjeepjackjeep Member Posts: 1
    I just bought an 05 GCL 5.7 and have a similar problem. Smells like gas from an oven when i fire the engine up or decelerate coming off of the highway. Am calling the dealer tomorrow. What have you found out?
  • jimbo611jimbo611 Member Posts: 6
    Wow, thanks for the detailed reply as what to check. I can see where i have parked it there are oil spots a plenty. I guess i will have to have something done to fix that but that boy still loves gas..

    thanks,

    Jimbo
  • edu1edu1 Member Posts: 1
    I have 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I made the mistake of connecting the battery backwards and now I am trying to assess the damage. The engine runs fine but the "check engine" light is on. The temperature measuring gage is not working and the battery gage shows the needle at 25%. Radio is blown as well.

    I would appreciate if anyone has experience with this type of damage. It might not be worth fixing if too costly.
    Thanks for the help!
    Edu1
  • bmcclellanbmcclellan Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee. It won't start. I thought the problem was the battery, but I have replaced that and no luck. It is trying to turn over but acts like it is getting no gasoline (yes it has gasoline in the tank). Any ideas on what to check from here? Where would you start? I'm afraid my skills are limited. I used to change out starters, etc. years and years ago but well.... that was years and years ago. It's a 6-cylinder, two-wheel drive.
    Thanks.
  • tdad71302tdad71302 Member Posts: 18
    i'd check either the alternator or the starter. then maybe the fuel filter.
  • tdad71302tdad71302 Member Posts: 18
    anyone have any idea why my fan would be squeaking. it's a 95 jgc.
  • jeepinjoeszjjeepinjoeszj Member Posts: 27
    The only thing I can think of is a loose wire to your guage in your dash. But it could possibly be the thermostat sticking and then opening back up. The thermostat, not sure about on a honda, isn't an expensive part, and isn't that hard to change.
  • jeepinjoeszjjeepinjoeszj Member Posts: 27
    IF and only IF it is your fan then your fan clutch or water pump would be going bad. But I would take the belt off and check the Idler and tensioner pulleys first to make sure its not them. You can tell if they are bad by the way they sound, basically if you can hear them turn then the bearings are going out, you will hear a sound like a metal ball rolling around in a can. Check or have this checked asap, b/c if it is your water pump it can leave you stranded. I found that out the hard way.
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