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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • crown4crown4 Member Posts: 1
    It's probably condensation that's not draining from the plastic box containing the evaporator. There's a drain with a rubber line attached that allows this water to drip beneath the car- When it's plugged, the water overflows into the passenger footwell. If the dealer can't figure it out (no surprise here) take it to an independent shop for a second opinion.
  • tdad71302tdad71302 Member Posts: 18
    i've had a bunch of people tell me it's mildew in my ac evaporator.
  • dsmansdsmans Member Posts: 10
    Thanks for the tips. I've just made an appt to get the transmission "serviced" w/ a complete flush & refill this coming weekend. I figured I'd try that route first. Appreciate the reply!
  • dlevettdlevett Member Posts: 3
    I know I screwed up, but would appreciate any help you guys could give me!

    I have changed the spark plugs on my 2000 4.7 V8, and have 'lost' the capacitor? (if it is a capacitor) that is attached to the rear right-hand coil (as facing the windscreen from the front).

    When changing the spark-plugs (with coil-on-plug), there are 3 extra bits (with wiring) attached to the coils (2 on the right side, and 1 on the left when facing the windscreen). If the front cylinder on the right (facing the windscreen is No. 2), then I believe they are on No. 4 and No. 8 on the right.

    My problem is that I have 'lost' the one on No. 8 down the back of the engine behing the throttle body/back of head/back of block) (it doesn't seem to be from the same part of the wiring harness as the coils) and I don't know where it comes out of the wiring harness.

    It runs OK, and not having it connected to the earth on Coil No. 8 does not seem to cause a problem.

    My questions are:
    - What it is?
    - What does it do?
    - What is the problem with not having it fastened to the earth on the coil?
    - Should I keep driving it?
    - Where does connect to the wiring loom, so that I can 'fish it out' and reconnect it

    Any help would be very much appreciated.

    :blush: :mad: :cry:

    Thanks,

    David.
  • cougardadcougardad Member Posts: 1
    There must be something wrong with your vehicle. I have a '05 JGC Limited with a Hemi and I get around 15-17 with just normal driving. Many times I have averaged about 16.5 On the hwy trips we push right around 19-20 mph. So we are satisfied with ours.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    You're talking about the condensor (which is a capacitor). Its purpose is to control arcing and without it, the points will soon be destroyed. Someone who's worked with the Cherokee should be able to provide details on how to reconnect, etc.

    Incidentally, the term is "ground" and not "earth."

    Good luck!

    tidester, host
  • dlevettdlevett Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the help - I wondered why there were 3 - two on the right, and one on the left.
    On the 2000 4.7 V8 GC there ar no points (I believe) that's why I couldn't understand. On older cars that I've worked on, with a distributer (Dizzy), the capacitor is in the dizzy (I'm not up on these new cars with seperate coils and, I suppose, I crankshaft position sensor to control timing).
    Whether it's Capacitor or Condensor, and Ground vs. Earth depends on which side of the atlantic you hail from.
    Still looking for any help on how to 'fish it back out'
    Thanks,
    David.
  • steve12887steve12887 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2001 jgc 4x4 4.0 I-6 with 97,000 miles. I have not had a problem (other than brakes!) until now. When I back out of my stone driveway, I hear a clunk. When I drive down the road over 50 mph, I get a vibration every now and then. I took it to the garage last week, and they said everything looks tight. I thought it mught have been a u joint or bearing. The vibration seems to be from the front. The tires are good. I drive roughly 30 miles to work each way at 70mph. The vibration may occur 1 time lasting 10 seconds diring my commute. It feels like I have my tire in the grooved strip on the side of the highway. Please let me know if anyone has any suggestions as I know something is wrong, but don't know what. Thanks.
  • honugirlhonugirl Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I have been having the same problem for over a month and it is just rediculous. I have taken my car to several mechanics and they cannot figure it out. Have you had any luck with finding a solution?
    Did your car ever die out shortly after turning it on?
    :confuse:
  • logans96zjlogans96zj Member Posts: 5
    What you are feeling is what almost every jeep owner goes through... Its called "Death Wobble" and you are getting it from lots of diff things under your Jeep... I have had the problem for a long time and I still get it after have the Alignment done... New Tires and that took care of the problem for a while but it came back...

    The Problems is usually
    Tire Balance
    Bad Tire
    Bad or Bent Trac Bar
    Steering Stabilizer
    Wheel Bearing
    The Angle of your Axle
    and anything else under it!!!

    It Sucks it feels like being in a Paint Shaker and If I owned this when it first came out I would have Sued JEEP for a bad front end!!! Very Dangerous

    I have Tranny Problems and I have had mind refilled and had numerous trips to the Mechanic to fix it and nothing solved yet I have had over 500.00 of sensors replaced

    Brakes Twice
    Tires
    Alignment
    Oil
    :lemon:
  • logans96zjlogans96zj Member Posts: 5
    The answer to your question is YES you can go from 2wd to 4wd On the FLY no stopping and putting the Trans in Neutral and you vise versa... Make Sure you are not going more than 45 when shifting into 4wd its not good on your transfer case.. Sense you also have select Trac you can also go into 4wd part time and Full Time 4wd use

    4wd Full Time: When needing standard 4wd; dirt, snow, light mud, etc more traction!

    4wd Part Time: Good for Deep Snow and Ice

    The Difference is that the Gear Ratio for power from Front Tires to Rear Tires is diff and thats why you have two diff choices... Of 4wd Part time and Full Time

    4wd LO: Use only when needed really slow gear ratio or going down steep slope or up a rough hill.... You can drive up to 35 mph in 4LO and it will shift through all three gears...
    (To get in 4Lo You must PUT THE TRANS in Neutral and moving no more than 3mph and then with a quick pull it into 4LO) To get out of 4Lo( moving about 3mph and trans in neutral give a good push forward on the handle and that will get you out of 4Lo)

    Logan
  • logans96zjlogans96zj Member Posts: 5
    Please read about what I said about "Death Wobble"

    It is usually bad caster and camber angle in Axle... It could be shocks or even bad Tierod...
  • logans96zjlogans96zj Member Posts: 5
    All you need to do is have your Transfer Case adjusted and then when you are in four wheel drive it doesn't slip in and out!!!

    Very simple it looks like a Dirt Bike Shifter
  • 55belair55belair Member Posts: 1
    I am dumb-founded that I am not able to find how to adjust the tension on the emergency brake on this vehicle...almost embarassed to ask!
    However, it needs it, so here I am.
    Any help would be appreciated.
    Thanks
    Joe
  • 2004jeeper2004jeeper Member Posts: 2
    I also have a 2004 Overland with a water leak into the driver side floor well. It started recently during the week of wet weather in the northeast. Crown4's reply does not apply, since the water collects while the vehicle is off and parked (and it is the driver's side floor well). Also, the water is coming from above, and not being thrown up during driving. I have had the vehicle two years now and this problem just arose. It is apparent that some flashing/seal has worked loose. I have not found the source, and have not yet been to the dealer. I also am looking for ideas. It may be that Jeep has a problem in this body style that just takes time to appear.
  • jhornerjhorner Member Posts: 3
    1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Ltd w/5.2L

    Does anyone know the trick for reconnecting the right side exahust header to the exhaust manifold? One of the two bolts/nuts is completely blind from the bottom, I cannot get one hand let alone two up there to hold the nut and get the bolt started, does not appear to be any access top side from within engine compartment either.

    I had to drop the exhaust to replace the oil pan gasket, now I can't get the exhaust properly bolted back together, appreciate any ideas.
  • jhornerjhorner Member Posts: 3
    Check a Haynes manual for your year - cable tension is automatically adjusted. If that isn't working you can adjust the parking brake shoes.
  • kurtw14kurtw14 Member Posts: 1
    Hey all,

    Brand new to this board. Looks like a great place to learn about Jeep problems.

    The coolant low warning light on the overhead console keeps coming on at startup, but the coolant level is fine.

    Anyone else have a problem like this? Any ideas of a fix?

    Thanks in advance.

    Kurt
  • engadkinsengadkins Member Posts: 1
    I check this site every now and then and have found some good tips. I thought I would share one. I used to drive a Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited (1998) and currently drive a GC Laredo (1997) - both of which used to leak coolant and water into the cab when the AC was running. With the Limited, I was able to open the plug behind the padding and use a wire hanger to clean out debris. With the current Jeep, I couldn't open the plug as easily so I solved it simply by drilling 2 holes through the floor to drain the water out. Works so far! No complaints.

    The problem I have now is that my Check Engine light is on and my Jeep's RPMs dip down to almost 0 when I stop at a light or stop sign. It wobbles but doesn't cut off. Also when driving, I feel a slight drag and my RPMs jump a bit but not too much. I think it may be transmission related - possibly the Torque controls but not sure. Any ideas?

    Also, any recommendations for finding a good mechanic? :cry:
  • logans96zjlogans96zj Member Posts: 5
    You have a bad Coolent Sensor get it replaced and check all Fuses...That should fix it
  • jhornerjhorner Member Posts: 3
    I have a 96 Limited that also leaks H2O into the cab when the a/c is running - I figured the condensation drain line is plugged - where did you find the drain port to clean out?
  • dlevettdlevett Member Posts: 3
    Still looking for any help you guysd can give - Thanks!

    I know I screwed up, but would appreciate any help you guys could give me!

    I have changed the spark plugs on my 2000 4.7 V8, and have 'lost' the capacitor? (if it is a capacitor) that is attached to the rear right-hand coil (as facing the windscreen from the front).

    When changing the spark-plugs (with coil-on-plug), there are 3 extra bits (with wiring) attached to the coils (2 on the right side, and 1 on the left when facing the windscreen). If the front cylinder on the right (facing the windscreen is No. 2), then I believe they are on No. 4 and No. 8 on the right.

    My problem is that I have 'lost' the one on No. 8 down the back of the engine behing the throttle body/back of head/back of block) (it doesn't seem to be from the same part of the wiring harness as the coils) and I don't know where it comes out of the wiring harness.

    It runs OK, and not having it connected to the earth on Coil No. 8 does not seem to cause a problem.

    My questions are:
    - What it is?
    - What does it do?
    - What is the problem with not having it fastened to the earth on the coil?
    - Should I keep driving it?
    - Where does connect to the wiring loom, so that I can 'fish it out' and reconnect it

    Any help would be very much appreciated.



    Thanks,

    David.
  • jeeper2002jeeper2002 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 JGC limited as well. So far it's been ok, 80K on it.
    I haven't used it much as I bought a 3rd car for my commute to work.
    The other day I got in it and now it seems as if the passenger side vents
    only blow outside air (changing the passenger side temp control doesn't
    change the temp). Looks like that you changed the blender doors etc.
    I understand you need to have the dash pulled apart etc...Did you do this yourself and if so how much of a pain was it? The dealer wants about 800 bucks to do this.
    By the way I also have a 2004 Honda Accord that has about 22 K on it. It's been flawless. When my Jeep had about 22K I probably did the front roteors a few times already and had the passenger and driver side htd seat changed.
  • jeeper2002jeeper2002 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 JGC as well. So far it's been ok, 80K on it.
    I haven't used it much as I bought a 3rd car for my commute to work.
    The other day I got in it and now it seems as if the passenger side vents
    only blow outside air (changing the passenger side temp control doesn't
    change the temp). From what I understand to resolve the issue it's something to do with either the blender doors, modules. Apparrently you need to remove the whole dash to get to these. Has anyone out there attempted this themselves?
    If so how much of a pain was it? The dealer wants about 800 bucks to do this.
  • rattleboxrattlebox Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 Grand Cherokee with the V8, (23,000 miles) I have a little rattle as you describe on acceleration, (sounded like a heat shield, or loose baffle). The dealer couldn't hear it either, until it got worse, (is always worse on cold days). They have replaced the catylatic converter, the complete exhaust system, rebuilt the front differential, replaced the pump in the transfer case, (it seemed to change pitch) so they replaced the complete transfer case, took out the center counsel front passenger seat to tray and find it with out luck. I am now after several months filling a complaint with Daimler and the BBB as the dealer says they can no longer help as they give up.
  • dsmansdsmans Member Posts: 10
    Hey Kurt. On my 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo, after having the coolant low indicator come on approximately every 3 weeks (and just adding some pre-mix coolant to the overflow tank to full each time), I learned that I was leaking coolant in my radiator and around the hoses. The leaks weren't bad enough to see spillage on the ground, but over three weeks time and during driving, I was losing it. I'd check your hoses/radiator, naturally the level of coolant you have, and as someone else mentioned, your sensors. G'luck.
  • danomites83danomites83 Member Posts: 1
    I have jurking in my jeep when i am going about 60 to 80 mph about 2 rpm's, it has 180,000 miles on it. I can't figure it out i need help.
  • lancwms96gcltdlancwms96gcltd Member Posts: 1
    Won't shift to overdrive have had leaking from overfill "WIFE" during 2000 mile drive. Is there sensor or module to check first?
  • jeep1988jeep1988 Member Posts: 40
    Has any had the problem with their Jeep with the Quadr-Trac I, when making a tight turn, the vehicle shimys or feels like it sticks. I traded my Jeep in two months ago, on a Subaru Forester and love it. I loved my Jeep, as that was the only problem that I had with it. I had 120,000 miles on it and still ran great.

    But that jumping, vibration, and shimming was very annoying. Is that common with the Quadra-Trac I system and does the Qudra-Trac II system do it as well?
  • dsmansdsmans Member Posts: 10
    Hey all. On my '95 Grand Cherokee Laredo Limited, I sometimes experience stalling when shifting from park to drive, or going from reverse to drive. This is always during the initial morning start if it's not sufficiently warmed-up. Anyone have any ideas what can cause this, or would it be reasonable to have the idle turned up a bit?

    Thanks!
  • ejones2ejones2 Member Posts: 1
    I read this and I have the same problem and no one knowns what it is and where it is. so please let me know and if it can be fixed. thanks liz"> :confuse:
  • fsuguyfsuguy Member Posts: 5
    I have a couple issues:

    1.) When I turn I hear a scrubbing noise like my tires are too large (they are factory) and I also hear a whining noise.
    2.) For about two weeks I have been hearing a rattling noise when I press the gas pedal. It sounds like maybe I put bad gas in, but does anyone have any idea?

    Help if you can...
  • fsuguyfsuguy Member Posts: 5
    I have had issues like that with other Chriysler products, i.e, a 2002 Dodge Intrepid. The problem was there was low oil pressure. You may want to look into this. I would just take it to the dealer.
  • klismanklisman Member Posts: 1
    i found a site that details your problem and shows how to fix. Its www.wjjeeps.com
    go to hvac sub assembly replacement.
    don't know if u got my last reply but l have the same problem so good luck and stay in touch.
  • jdelrahimjdelrahim Member Posts: 1
    I have a '99 Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 QuadDrive with 78k miles. I hear a loud clunking noise when accelerating slowly between 30 and 40 mph or when decelerating from 40 to 30 mph. If I accelerate fast through to 40 mph, I do not hear the noise. It sounds like a transmission or differential noise? Anyone with the same problem?
  • dprivettedprivette Member Posts: 1
    Trying to replace my turn signal flasher which sounds like it is tucked in with the fuses on the drivers side but it isn't very obvious how to get to it. Any suggestions?
    2001 Grand Cherokee Lmtd.
  • nlcarbnlcarb Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 grand cherokee jeep. When I make tight turns, the rear end grings. The dealer says this is normal. It is very irratating. Does anyone have any suggestions on what the dealer can do to fix this matter. Any buzz words I should use.

    Nlcarb
  • bigkiangbigkiang Member Posts: 1
    Hello all, I'm going to try to explain this... I have a 95 Grand Cherokee that keeps blowing the "Blower Motor" maxi fuse when I try to start it. When I turn the key ahead a click or two everything happens normally, lights, radio, fuel pump, accessories, etc. When I try to start the engine... nothing! The starter does not fire and I get a blue flash from the maxi fuse... POP! I pulled the harness no visable broken wires. I disconnected the blower motor and put in a new maxi fuse and POP! Could my problem be a relay such as the starter relay? Is it somehow on the same grid as the blower motor? I am at a loss now. It all started when the battery went dead and the security system went down, I cycled the key in the lock to fix okay. The battery was jumped and ground on the negative battery post, could this have blown a relay which in turn blows my fuse??? Help! Thank you and I appreciate any assistance with this problem. :confuse:
  • robinprobinp Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 JGC. It has about 38000 miles, and all of a sudden I keep blowing fuses for turn signals, fan blower, and seat heaters. We knew we had a bad switch on the drivers side seat heater so we replaced that today and it is still blowing fuses.Anyone have any ideas?
  • tigerbabe76tigerbabe76 Member Posts: 4
    I HAVE A 1995 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE LTD V8, SINCE MOVING TO NC FROM CA MY REAR HATCH HAS BEEN STICKING AND REQUIRES TWO PEOPLE TO OPEN IT. ONE TO CONTINUOUSLY PRESS THE DOOR LOCKS OPEN & CLOSED WHILE THE OTHER OPENS THE REAR HATCH. MY PROBLEM JUST GOT WORSE, UPON INVESTIGATING THE PROBLEM I CREATED A BIGGER ONE. I MOVED THE LATCH AND NOW ITS STUCK IN THE CLOSED POSITION AND I CAN'T CLOSE MY HATCH BECAUSE THE LATCH IS IN THE WAY. MY HUSBAND IS DEPLOYED AND i DON'T HAVE CONTACT WITH HIM REGULARLY.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I don't know what's going on with the switch, but usually you can take a screwdriver to the latch and force it back to the normal position so that you can close the hatch. Maybe this post will help:

    kyfdx, "BMW X3" #2211, 23 Oct 2005 5:51 pm

    btw, ALL CAPS is hard to read and lots of people just skip over those posts.

    Steve, Host
  • tigerbabe76tigerbabe76 Member Posts: 4
    Sorry about the CAPS lock.... Before I posted this message I had already tried the handle/screwdriver thing with no success either. I'm getting frustrated with this Jeep all together. I'm not sure if the door handle on the rear hatch is working at all since I've had problems getting it to open. I hate to take it into a mechanic and get raped over something so simple...but I don't know what else to do. :confuse:
  • tigerbabe76tigerbabe76 Member Posts: 4
    Ok, after writing this post I went back outside and tried the same method I've had to use to open the rear hatch with the help of my daughter continuous pushing of the lock and unlock while I pulled down with the screwdriver and it worked!!!

    I guess all I needed to do was write a post to get the creative juices flowing and I was able to solve the problem I created.

    Thanks for your imput. :D
  • tigerbabe76tigerbabe76 Member Posts: 4
    It sounds like your transmission is going out. If your MPH are at 60 and your RPM's drop and then increase with a boost to 80 MPR it sounds like your transmission needs work. My 95 Jeep Grand Cherokee LTD is having the same issues right now with 158k miles on it. So I've been driving my husbands 2000 Camaro SS around while he's deployed.
  • jcatalinejcataline Member Posts: 6
    I have a 95 JGC with 259,000 miles. I must have got a good one compared to some of the stories I've read. It's been out of commission for about 2 years because of transmission. I dropped it myself and had a friend at work rebuild it, total cost $650.00 for parts and his labor. After re-installing it and doing a oil change, it fired right up and has been driving great. My wife drove it and the speedometer quit working. Has anyone ever had a problem with the speedometer, could it be a sensor? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • mbjdljmbjdlj Member Posts: 2
    2002 G.C. L 4.0 with select tract. After coming to a stop. When I release the brake there is a shudder or bang like something is sticking. Dealer put in new drive shaft about 15,000 mi. and problem came back after about 10,00 more miles and can not get him to discuss the problem again. any one seen this before??
  • apollo7apollo7 Member Posts: 2
    image1997 Grand Cherokee:
    My blower motor will not cut off unless i remove the maxi fuse. I replaced the "resistor" but did not correct the problem.
    when i replaced the resistor the it was extremely hot to the touch?
  • apollo7apollo7 Member Posts: 2
    My blower motor will not cut off unless i remove the maxi fuse. I replaced the "resistor" but did not correct the problem.
    when i replaced the resistor the it was extremely hot to the touch?
  • inviernoinvierno Member Posts: 1
    I have a problem with my JGC and have no idea what it could be. Driving down the street and heard a loud pop like something hit the underside of the car. A minute later, a little dust of smoke and antifreeze everywhere along with broken pieces of hard plastic. The Radiator??? How could this have happened, what is sthe problem? Any suggestions are appreicated. THANKS!
  • dadsboxerdadsboxer Member Posts: 1
    I need to know a couple of things about this Jeep. 1) Where did they hide the fuses? My Haynes manual says they are under the kick panel on the right side but they are not there. 2)The front wipers do not work on the intermittent setting. I am guessing that the problem is the intermittent wiper module but I have no idea where that is. Any help? Please?
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