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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

1235799

Comments

  • richcoff1richcoff1 Member Posts: 3
    My JGC is the biggest piece of *#@$ I have ever owned. I have had the steering colum replaced 6 times, brake rotors replaced 3 times, and numerous electical gremlins looked at that the dealership says is normal. I have my JGC turned in for lemon law in the state of PA. Everytime the case has come up for a court date, Chrysler has postponed because they say that they need more time to explore their options. This has been going on for over a year. I am sick and tired of dealing with this piece #$%* and also with Chrysler. So much for customer service. Anyone interested in buying a JGC might want to rethink their decision before buying a piece of junk JEEP.
  • jrosasmcjrosasmc Member Posts: 1,711
    Did the 1st-generation Jeep Grand Cherokee (as well as the current version) use a live rear axle with coil springs as the rear suspension? I just purchased a '97 Laredo and am wondering about the rear end specs. By the way, I've put 4000 miles on this Jeep since February with no problems.
  • nuyawkrnuyawkr Member Posts: 13
    I've just turned 13,000 miles on my '01 2WD JGC Laredo. I've begun to notice that the steering wheel shimmies or wobbles at high speed braking? Is that the symptom every one else has experienced with regard to the brake rotor warpage? I've yet to have it looked at and just wanted some feedback for the time when I must take it in. Also, am I correct in understanding that DC will only cover the rotors for the first 12,ooo miles and since I'm over that, it will be an out of pocket expense to have them replaced? Thanks for the input.
  • billwfriendbillwfriend Member Posts: 44
    Just because you feel some pulsating in the break peddle and/or some wobbleing in the steering wheel doesn't mean you have to immediatly run out and replace everything! It doesn't mean your breaks are failing or are going to fail on you! All newer (97 - current) DC products seem to have those symptoms. Both of my DC vehicles have always had these issues, and have always braked fine. Yes the DC rotors are crappy and cheap, and you can find some "after market" quality rotors to replace them with, to remedy the pulsating/wobbling. But the braking performance (stopping your vehicle) is comperable either way. But don't waste your money of factory replacement rotors, they'll just do the same thing after the same amount of use. And yes, you may have to pay out of pocket since your over 12K miles. However, DC dealerships have been known to replace the crappy rotors with new crappy rotors for free. You'll find those posts if you read through these message boards. Good Luck!
  • nuyawkrnuyawkr Member Posts: 13
    billwfriend.....thanks for your post and information. Like you, I don't seem to have any braking problems and sometimes the trouble is in reading all these posts and what others are saying or doing about their problems. As long as the braking remains stable I can live with the wobble. Aside from that, I've experienced no problems with my JGC and I am quite pleased with my vehicle. Thanks again for your time and input.
  • kate2349kate2349 Member Posts: 1
    I'm posting here because I experienced what I feel was a life threatening incident while driving my 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo . I was on the freeway in the middle right lane driving at about 60 miles per hour when the traffic in that lane and the one to the right slowed to about 20 miles per hour. The Jeep pulled to the right when I applied the brakes hard (anti-lock brakes). I let off the brake pedal to straighten and regain control of the vehicle. Without re braking I steered into the left lane to avoid striking the car in front of me or the cars to the right. I was incredibly lucky to regain control, and that no one was in the left or right lane beside me at the time. I took the Jeep to the dealer and the right ball joint was replaced, work was done to both rotors, the transmissions seal was leaking and repaired, and the front end was aligned. This is on a vehicle that only has 11,000 miles on it and has yet to go off road; mostly freeway driving. I was astounded to read on the posts here that the right pull on braking is a well documented problem that DC refuses to acknowledge. I'm wondering just how many Jeep Grand Cherokee owners were not as lucky as me. How many Grand Cherokees have been in accidents attributed to the driver over-steering to the right to avoid an obstacle, when in fact the driver only was only braking hard and the vehicle pulled to the right. I hope this problem is being addressed by a consumer safety agency.
  • kkuligkkulig Member Posts: 150
    Check the NHTSA web site for consumer complaints about this. You can file your complaint there as well if you want to. The more complaints, the better the chance that the NHTSA will investigate the problem. http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/
  • sickjeep1sickjeep1 Member Posts: 1
    I have been very unhappy with my '97 GC Lmtd, 52,000 miles. For a week now it either won't start at all, or will idle down and die when slowing or at a red light. The dealership put a new idle air control motor in and gave it a tune-up ($600) and told me they fixed the problem. It is still happening and they claim the problem isn't occurring for them so they can't diagnose it. Is anyone one else have a similar problem and if so, what was the outcome? Thank you!
  • reisdorphreisdorph Member Posts: 3
    i went to www.nhtsa.dot.gov i was in shock all the problems with the jeeps, and yes i have a lemon law suit and just like richcoff1 they keep postponing my date also.
  • kkuligkkulig Member Posts: 150
    Delay's in your lemon law suit are just one of many tactics employed by the manufacturer which are designed to wear you down and either get you to settle for less than you want, or even better yet, to make you go away.

    Recognize it for the "game" it is and stick to what you want. Don't ever knuckle-under to this. Been there, done that, and I won.
  • twodogs2twodogs2 Member Posts: 1
    This is in response to 207. The fix could be as simple as the relay that operates the fuel pump. That is what cured my problem.
    Monte
  • deloiddeloid Member Posts: 18
    This is my third GC...first two were acceptable but did really well off road so I continued buying them.

    This vehicle has had the following problems by 13000 miles.

    Rotars warped twice.
    Premature tire wear
    Heating elements both front seats broke
    Cannot get cool outside air through ducts
    Shimmy and noise when turning sharply
    Failure to start easily in morning
    Transmission clunks hard when changing gears at low speeds
    Delay in engaging transmission when cold..can put it in reverse and nothing happens for 5-10 seconds.
    Pull to right when hard braking
    *** three episodes where shifted into reverse and even though foot was on the brake the vehicle lurched (accelerated) requiring hard use of the brake. ****This I consider Very dangerous!!!!!
    yellow warning light intermittently goes on
    Fuel gauge innacurate
    Clock runs fast

    I am warned the rotars will warp again.. I am told that Dc is looking at a fix for the calipers.
    The number of problems I have had for this young of a car shocks me(as a three jeep owner).
    My concerns are that this is going to be an expensive vehicle to maintain without an extended warranty and that this sudden lurching will cause an accident.

    Dean
  • edgargedgarg Member Posts: 1
    After numerous recalls, all kind of mechanical problems, and other major disappointments with my Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4WD, (with only 35,300 miles) I finally got rid of this piece and traded it for a better quality and more reliable product. My recommendation to you: DO NOT BUY JEEP. In my opinion Jeep stands for "Just Endless Engineering Problems.
  • kw_carmankw_carman Member Posts: 114
    I am looking at SUV's, and am very interested in the Grand Cherokee (mostly before the redesign models). Are any certain year models known to be more trouble prone than others? From what I have seen, 97's and 98's weren't too bad.
  • zonkzonk Member Posts: 208
    My wife was out driving yesterday when a rain storm passed through where she was driving. Anyway, she head a sharp crack, and looked over at the pasenger side of the JGC. Something had busted the mirror out. If the elctronics are ok, can the glass only be replaced, or does the whole assembly have to be replaced?
  • kimball5kimball5 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee v8 ltd, It has 58K. It continually pulls and drifts to the right, even on flat roads. I've had it aligned and all tires balanced and rotated, the tires are new. Has anybody had similar probs and/or can offer solutions? Would appreciate hearing back.
  • vin_weaselvin_weasel Member Posts: 237
    The same thing happened to me on a Passat. Just go to an auto glass store and get a replacement. I went to a chain called Speedy here in Canada and it cost me $15 for the mirror and they installed it for free. You don't need a new assembly.
  • zonkzonk Member Posts: 208
    Thanks for the help. I appreciate it!
  • kkuligkkulig Member Posts: 150
    I think if you check some of the archives, you'll find more complaints on the first JGC's (93-98) and then again on the 99-00's.

    Transmission failures, steering gearbox failures, transfer case viscous coupler problems, driveshaft yokes, U-joint retaining blocks, some electrical problems, water leakage, AC drain vent blockage (leaks into passenger footwell), and the infamous warped rotor problem... just to name a few.

    Don't mean to sound negative... I love the JGC. If you think these problems are numerous, go and read the recalls and/or TSB's issued for a comparable year Ford or GM SUV.

    Had a 98 JGC Ltd that went back under the lemon law for a major drivetrain vibration that the dealer couldn't find or fix. Felt like the vehicle was going to shake itself apart on the highway when the vibration would start.
  • kw_carmankw_carman Member Posts: 114
    Would a JGC not be a good car to take off to college?
  • tpeltztpeltz Member Posts: 3
    I purchased a 98 JGC 5.9 at a dealer in Milwaukee.It has 45000 miles on it,and runs very good. But at,or around 60mph if I let up on the throttle I hear a gear whirling noise coming from the front axle's. I didn't hear that noise when I test drove the vehicle,probably because I didn't drive it long enough on the highway,and didn't "let-up" on the gas to hear it. Has anyone encountered this Whirling Noise?? And if so, what should I do to fix it??? Thanks
  • tloke1tloke1 Member Posts: 185
    FYI, anyone having rotor problems with their Jeeps, DC has just issued a TSB with redesigned parts that should finally solve the problem:

    FRONT BRAKE PULSATION DURING LIGHT TO MODERATE BRAKE APPLICATION
    Date: May 13, 2002
    Bulletin # 0500302
    Year: 1999-2002 (models built before May 11, 2002)
    Summary: This bulletin involves the replacement of both front brake rotors and caliper assemblies. Parts required: Rotor, Caliper kit (2 calipers, pads and retaining bolts).
  • billwfriendbillwfriend Member Posts: 44
    I recently adjusted the driver's side seat-back to a fully upright position in my 2000 JGC and heard a "pop" a few seconds later. Now the lever and motor "clicks" loudly when the seat is fully upright, and the lever is still engaged. I'm guessing whatever tells the motor to stop, has popped loose or something. So the motor still want's to upright the seat when it's already reached it's limit. Any experience with this? All power seat options still work fine, so I'm not really that concerned.

    Thanks!
  • ronc5ronc5 Member Posts: 7
    Hi guys and girls,
    I have a 01 JGC Loreado. Love it. No problems whatsoever. Of course I only have 5000 miles on it, but the transmission has driven me crazy from day one. The symptom is a very annoying jerk when it shifts into 5th. This usually occurs around 53 mph. I have also watched the tack, and it seems to drop down at shift, then seems to float up before it settles. Is this normal? Haven't taken it back to the dealer, 'cause they have a bad rep in the service dept. Any advice would be appreciated.
  • kkuligkkulig Member Posts: 150
    Ronc5... I've experiencied pretty much the same thing on my 99 and 02 JGC's. I have to say that it's annoying but it is "normal" operation for this trans.

    The transmission and shift pattern are controlled by the powertrain control module (PCM) and its software. Because this is a trans that "learns" to shift itself according to your driving habits, it's just a matter of having the dealer reflash the computer (wipe out the memory) and reload new software... hopefully with a newer revision.

    I've had this done several times on my 99 as they continue to tweak this software. My dealer now does this on his own whenever I go in for an oil change and they see that a newer PCM software revision is available. Not a big deal... maybe takes 5-10 minutes tops. Have your dealer do this for you.

    It doesn't seem to matter how you drive your vehicle and what the trans is "learning" by it. The trans feels better after they download new PCM software, but in 3-4 weeks it seems to be back to its old habits and shift patterns. It's nothing that seems to hurt the trans (unless you're experiencing the 2-3 slam shift problem). It's just annoying and something you learn to live with. Don't know if DC will ever get this straightened out.
  • ronc5ronc5 Member Posts: 7
    Thanks kkluig, I kinda suspected this to be the norm, but it's always good to hear other people are experiencing the same thing. I did have the 2-3 slam you mentioned, but it seems to have subsided (for now) lol. Thanks again.
  • wkilgorewkilgore Member Posts: 2
    Have 95 JGC that was leaking condensed water from air conditioner inside and soaking passenger side carpets. Assumed the condensation drain hose was plugged but could not find the hose outlet. Dealership said outlet is INSIDE THE BOX BEAM OF THE FRAME. Dealer wants $900 to remove Dashboard and A/C System to clean it out. Besides rubber gasket debris from the factory, if the a/c is run on "Outside Air", it pulls from a grill under the windshield wipers and gets bits of leaves, pine needles, dirt, etc. into the one-piece condensation collection pan and plugs up the drain. TO FIX THIS - READ BELOW

    I drilled a hole in the box beam, inside the fenderwell and located end of drainpipe. Used jigsaw to cut access hole (2"x 3")inside fenderwell by shock absorber. A 1/2" CPVC 90 degree pipe fitting is an exact slip fit on the HDPE drainpipe. With $.68 worth of CPVC pipe and fittings I connected the drain to my shopvac and sucked and blew, sucked and blew through the drainpipe. I pulled a bunch of what appeared to be thin rubber sheets about 1" in diameter out of the a/c drain outlet. These are from the factory but definitely are the things plugging up the a/c.

    If you have this problem and need guidance in where to drill the hole to access the drainpipe, send me an E-mail at wkilgore@contactpsc.com
  • kkuligkkulig Member Posts: 150
    If you've experienced the slam shifting problem, then by all means take your JGC in and have the PCM software updated to stop this. I know it's an intermittant problem but letting it continue can do some serious damage to your trans or drivetrain from the shock of the slam.

    The problem is a software glitch... it can't seem to decide which of the two 3rd gears to shift the trans into. When it does, it's like an afterthought and it slams it into gear.

    Even after new software, the problem may eventually return like it did on mine. Why they can't fix this... who knows? Just have them reprogram the PCM when it starts doing this. Yeah, it's a pain but that's about all you can do and it very well may save you from costlier repairs later.
  • eenglisheenglish Member Posts: 22
    Hi tloke1,

    Can you give more info on this?
    FRONT BRAKE PULSATION DURING LIGHT TO MODERATE BRAKE APPLICATION
    Date: May 13, 2002
    Bulletin # 0500302

    I can't find this on the NHTSB website. I also have an Alldata account that is supposed to have the TSBs as well and I can't find this.

    Where did you get this info?

    Thanks, Eddie
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    I'm trying to find where I got this...cut and pasted into an e-mail I sent my wife...don't know why it does not show up at nhtsb.dot.gov site:


    FRONT BRAKE PULSATION DURING LIGHT TO MODERATE BRAKE APPLICATION

    Date: 5/13/02

    Bulletin # 0500302 (supercedes 0500501 Dated Sep 14, 2001)

    Model Year(s): 1999-2002 (models built May 11, 2002 and prior)

    Description: Front brake pulsation during light to moderate brake application.

    Details: This bulletin involves the replacement of both front brake rotors and caliper assemblies.

    Parts required:

    52098672 Rotor

    05093174AA Caliper kit (2 calipers, pads and retaining bolts)


    Okay..finally found it: (checked both NHTSB & Alldata...looks as if they have not updated much since the first of the year...did find one dated as late as Feb '02 on GMC Envoy, but Jeep GC latest was Dec 01)


    http://www.wjjeeps.com/tsb.htm#0500302

  • bmd2bmd2 Member Posts: 1
    We had a problem with our '99 grand cherokee -- part of the electrical system shut down when we turned the car on. Also engine ran very rough, break light came on and trying to shift into gear was difficult. The dealer couldn't find any problem, but thought it might be the alarm system. It doesn't do it every time you start the car. Anyone ever hear of this?
  • jeep1234jeep1234 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee that I have had alot of problem with first I had the transfer case go out and had to replace it then I had some other smaller problems fixed like the multifuction switch, the brake light circuit boards, and some sort of sensor under the hood.
    But now I have a bigger problem the headlights, wipers, and radio controls on the steering weel
    will all stop working for hours at a time and then just come back on like nothing ever happened
    it has done that to me four times since January and has been to two different dealer one of them it has been to twice to be fixed and they say they cant find anything wrong with it. I have wrote Crysler a letter over the subject and have had no responce. I owned a 1994 Grand Cherokee before this one and had planed to trade the 2000 in ever few years but now I probally will never own a Crysler product ever again if they dont respond back to me.
    I am sorry for all the neg. but I think when you pay $30,000 plus for a vehice that you should not have to do anything but simple mahnince.

    thank for your time
    Randall W. Czapla
  • kw_carmankw_carman Member Posts: 114
    Sorry to hear about your problems. Though I'm not a JGC owner, I have been chased away from this beautiful (on the outside) vehicle due to its mechanical problems.
    Edmunds offers a handy spell-check feature for every time you post a message, and it has saved me from saying the wrong thing on many occasions.
    Good luck!
    kw
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Hey, the Unofficial Deputy Roving Host® makes an appearance in SUVs. Thanks for the tip, KW - many people don't notice the blue buttons for spelling or editing posts. Lots of options here to get used to I guess.

    Steve
    Host
    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • mastercraft2mastercraft2 Member Posts: 7
    '99 JGC Laredo V8 Quadra Drive. It's sitting in the garage and will not move. The gauges spin, sometimes ALL THE WAY AROUND, and all of the warning lights blink, as do the interior lights. This happens when the key is turned off and continues to happen after the key is removed. Turning the key to the ignition position calms the gauges, but does not engage the starter. It's kind of a neat light show, but it won't tow the boat. Suggestions?
  • gmanichgmanich Member Posts: 3
    I can't believe how much whining I see in these postings. It's like you people have never owned a car before. I'm not going to stand on my soap box and say that the JGC is the greatest vehicle ever, or that I've never had a maintenance issue with mine because I have. However, I will say it's the best, most versatile vehicle I've ever had. It's got a very smooth ride on asphalt and plenty of room for groceries, but it's capabilities really begin to shine when I leave the pavement. Whether it's gravel, dirt, mud or creeks filled with big rocks, my jeep has always been able to find enough traction to get me to my destination, and to do it in style. I have to say it actually feels more at home and sure-footed once I leave the beaten track.

    ROUTINE MAINTENANCE
    I leased a 99 GCL V8 4x4 QD with just about every option available. I've put on 38k miles, and I consider almost all of the service I've had to be routine maintenance: faithful oil changes with SYNTHETIC oil (be good to your engine, it's expensive); 2x transmission service; 2x transfer case and front/rear differential service; 1x cooling system service. At one point the rear end began to howl when making tight radius parking maneuvers, but the rear end service cleared that one up. It seems there was water in there (must have been from the last creek crossing, oops). But, just to add some spice to life, the mechanic at the dealership failed to properly reconnect the speed sensor, which slipped free on my way back from a weekend in the desert watching the Leonid meteor shower, leaving me to limp home in third gear. No, I wasn't happy about that, but I was glad to find out it was human error and not mechanical failure. File that one under that's life."

    RE: brake problems
    One month ago I had my first brake service, and yes it was because the rotors were slightly warped and the mild shuddering was bothering me. I had all four rotors turned and now the brakes are as smooth as glass, same as when I brought it home on day 1. I think that record is acceptable considering the thing weighs more than 4,000 lbs and has seen it's fair share of steep mountain roads while packed to the rafters with fully loaded ice chests and additional equipment strapped on the roof. I haven't done much towing, though. Some of the brake problems listed in the earlier postings might be avoided by reducing the amount of time spent riding the brake pedal, such as you might encounter in stop-and-go traffic. Try downshifting to take some of the load off the brakes. That's what I do. By the way, all brake rotors warp, that's why they must be periodically machined. I file my brake service under standard maintenance.

    RE: Reclining Power Seat Motor Clicking
    I read in an earlier post (#222) that somebody else experienced this. I inclined the seat to the full upright position at which point the motor began clicking. Dealer replaced the motor under warranty. No more problem. I'm not a huge man, but I do weigh 200+ and have spent many hours in that seat. It's not really surprising to me that the little plastic retainer broke, considering what I put it through. I file this under wear-and-tear.

    NON-ROUTINE MAINTENANCE
    Now for the unpleasant stuff.

    RE: Bump-Stop
    In the second month I began to experience the dreaded "bump-stop". If you are unfamiliar with this: while stopped, the truck would suddenly lurch as if bumped from behind, although I never actually went anywhere (foot on the brake and all). Dealer replaced the drive shaft under warranty, which fixed the problem. It has not recurred. They acknowledged that the problem was not uncommon. While I would have preferred no problems at all, this one was fairly minor and easily fixed. File it under no biggie.

    RE: Loud Droning or Whirling
    At about the four month mark my Jeep began making a loud droning shortly after start-up and engaging first gear. The noise dies out after less than 30 seconds of motoring, during which I notice a loss of power. The same thing occurs when the transmission gets hot, such as when I've been cruising through the mountains on steep dirt roads in low range for a while, or sometimes when doing lots of stop-and-go in rush hour traffic on surface streets. Unfortunately, the symptoms are random and unpredictable in my experience, so when the dealer says he can't reproduce the problem I believe him. I don't know what to do about it, but since it hasn't REALLY caused me any grief other than being loud, I haven't gotten twisted out of shape about it. File it under unresolved issues that will probably get worse.

    Many of you describe problems with your Jeeps that sound pretty mundane, and might even be due to the manner in which you are treating your vehicle. I've certainly caused some of my own problems. But there are also some of you that seem to have legitimate gripes about problems that are downright scary (death wobble, electrical shutdown). I feel bad for those of you in that category because you will never know much fun it can be to own a Grand Cherokee. To the rest of you, have you ever owned a perfect vehicle? If so, why aren't you driving it?

    As for the Edmunds.com web site, I love it. It's great to be able to go into the dealership armed with the knowledge these people give me about what's available on my vehicle of choice and how much I should expect to pay for it. These forums are also useful so I can get an idea of what to expect for maintenance. Thanks, and keep up the great work. I plan to take the information I learned with me to the dealership and buy a new Jeep Grand Cherokee!
  • kkuligkkulig Member Posts: 150
    There are several discussions on this same problem that I've been reading on other boards. From what I gather by those posts, it seems like the JGC's electrical and computer system are very sensitive to proper voltage at startup.

    A low or dead battery seems to be the cause and these people have been saying that you should check the battery for a proper charge and to make sure the battery connections are clean and tight. Failing that, the majority reported that replacing the battery clears the problem up.

    You may want to try this first. At most, you'll be out the cost of a new battery... which is considerably less than the dealer will charge you to find and fix the problem. They'd probably replace the battery themselves anyway.

    gmanich... very well said!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    especially the part about loving the Edmunds.com web site :-)

    Steve
    Host
    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • mastercraft2mastercraft2 Member Posts: 7
    That's what I will do. I'm off to Sears to get a Die-Hard today or tomorrow. I'll let you know what happens. Thanks for the information either way.
  • kkuligkkulig Member Posts: 150
    Please let us know if that solves your problems. People have really started to complain about this lately and it scares me to think what kind of bucks an owner may shell-out to the dealer to try and fix this when a simple battery replacement may do the trick! People really need to know this!

    Good luck! ;0)
  • mastercraft2mastercraft2 Member Posts: 7
    Charging the battery ended the problem.
  • kkuligkkulig Member Posts: 150
    Glad to hear that worked out for you! If it happens again in the near future, it's probably a sign that your battery has a bad cell(s) and needs to be replaced. That sure is cheaper than having the dealer find/fix the problem for you. ;0)
  • steve279steve279 Member Posts: 7
    Two items I've noticed in regard to the GC. The first is warped rotors. Have your tech lube the caliper slide pins every 5k miles with a good anti seize compound BEFORE THE ROTORS ARE WARPED!!. The slide pins will have to be removed from the calipers in order to accomplish this task. A Torx fitting is needed to remove the slide pins. The lube the factory puts on doesn't stand up to high temperatures and it causes the slide pins to gall. Then as the caliper can't move (it should be able to "float" back and forth about 1/8 inch) the outside pad makes constant contact with the rotor thereby over heating the rotor and causing it to warp. Re lubing should only take 15 or 20 minutes once the vehicle is in the air. Have the tech ensure that the slide pin boots are intact as well. If the boots have deteriorated, have them replaced.

    BTW, the JGC is not the only vehicle with this problem. Many GM cars have the same problem and the same solution.

    As for the rear end noise, if you hear an oscillating noise coming from the rear, especially under load (like going up a hill) but you don't hear it while on a flat surface with reduced load, believe it or not it MAY just be the exhaust note, i.e. the way the exhaust sounds. There's no fix short of a re - engineered exhaust system. But then again, with an oscillating exhaust note, there's really no mechanical problem either.

    Hope it helps!!
  • kkuligkkulig Member Posts: 150
    The tip on keeping the caliper slide pins lubricated may be a good one... but at best, it will only delay the inevitable warpage. These things warp so fast that you shouldn't have to worry about any parts having time to corrode and become difficult to disassemble.

    It doesn't matter what you do to try and prevent this from happening when the rotor material itself is of poor quality. That's the REAL problem with OEM brake rotors today.

    As we all know, braking is done by friction... which also generates heat. There's no escaping this. If the material can't stand the heat then you're out of luck. At best, you can learn better braking habits that will cut down on excessive rotor heat but you can't prevent this simple law of physics from occuring.

    At today's shop labor rates, are you sure you want your service tech spending 15-20 minutes every 5K miles doing this? And then still have to pay for new rotors when they eventually warp anyway? Save your money and spend it on any decent set of aftermarket rotors when the time comes. It will probably be the last set of rotors you buy.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    Wonder if that is why the new TSB calls for replacment of rotors AND calipers? (I replaced mine with aftermarket rotors for less than $100 from a major auto parts chain...they have NOT warped! That was less than the dealership quoted to turn the warped rotors since they were over the 12,000 brake warranty!)


    FRONT BRAKE PULSATION DURING LIGHT TO MODERATE BRAKE APPLICATION

    Date: 5/13/02


    Bulletin # 0500302 (supercedes 0500501 Dated Sep 14, 2001)


    Model Year(s): 1999-2002 (models built May 11, 2002 and prior)


    Description: Brake roughness or pedal pulsation when the brakes are applied. The customer may experience a vibration of the steering wheel, floor, seat, instrument panel, or a minor pedal pulsation (brake roughness) under light to moderate pedal application. The condition may be caused by excessive thickness variation of the brake rotor surface.


    Details: This bulletin involves the replacement of both front brake rotors and caliper assemblies.


    Parts required:

    52098672 Rotor

    05093174AA Caliper kit (2 calipers, pads and retaining bolts)


    http://www.wjjeeps.com/tsb.htm#0500302

  • janzjanz Member Posts: 129
    $300 for new rotors for my 1999 JGC about a year ago?
  • mastercraft2mastercraft2 Member Posts: 7
    We had the problem recur and the battery was dead. The car was on the boat ramp with the trailer attached. After a jump, we took the car to an auto place and had a new battery installed. The alternator tested as normal. That worked overnight, but it's dead again. It seems the problem is something that causes batteries to drain.
  • steve279steve279 Member Posts: 7
    I agree that it is disappointing to have the rotors warp, especially on a new vehicle. But cast iron is cast iron and that's what is used to make brake rotors. The stuff that comes on the vehicle meets the same spec as standard aftermarket rotors.

    I replaced my rotors with Bendix rotors from Advanced Auto. Had to use a hammer to knock the old rotors off of the hub as heat had caused them to rust to the hub. But more importantly, I found that the slide pin lube had melted away causing the galling I mentioned the last time.

    Point being, it's the lack of back and forth movement that causes the contact that causes the heat that causes the rotors to warp. Maintaining free movement is the ONLY thing that will keep the rotors from over heating and warping. It's a pain in the backside but it is far cheaper than replacing rotors constantly or taking a hit on a trade for a different vehicle.

    Once the vehicle is in the air, use a Torx T45 (check #) to remove the pins. Remove one at time, re lube and re install. Use a good anti seize compound for lube. If you have a favorite garage, ask the tech to do the work every other oil change. It's really no more difficult that turning a bolt out of a threaded hole. The caliper DOES NOT have to be removed to do this work.

    After both pins are re - lubed, ensure that the caliper moves by manually pushing and pulling it back and forth. Should move 1/16 to 1/8 inch. Don't forget to add anti seize compound to the threads of the pins.

    This "fix" works... I had the same problem of warped rotors on my 89 Grand Prix and that's what solved the problem.
  • mastercraft2mastercraft2 Member Posts: 7
    We had the problem recur and the battery was dead. The car was on the boat ramp with the trailer attached. After a jump, we took the car to an auto place and had a new battery installed. The alternator tested as normal. That worked overnight, but it's dead again. It seems the problem is something that causes batteries to drain.
  • kkuligkkulig Member Posts: 150
    Quote:

    "I agree that it is disappointing to have the rotors warp, especially on a new vehicle. But cast iron is cast iron and that's what is used to make brake rotors. The stuff that comes on the vehicle meets the same spec as standard aftermarket rotors."

    Steve279... it's obvious that OEM rotors DO NOT meet the same spec as aftermarket rotors, or vice-versa. If that was true, we wouldn't be having all those problems with the OEM rotors in the first place, and we wouldn't be solving our OEM rotor problems once and for all by going with aftermarket rotors. All cast iron isn't created equal. And generally, OEM parts are held to a higher quality standard than aftermarket replacement parts. But that's not happening here. The fact of the matter is that OEM rotors use cheaper material in order for the supplier to meet the automaker's demand to reduce cost. That's purely business in today's economy.

    I also politely disagree with your theory that keeping the caliper pins lubed to allow free caliper movement is the ONLY thing that will keep the rotors from overheating and warping. It may help reduce the total effect, but I feel that learning and using proper braking techniques will go a lot further to reduce this problem. Notice that I say "reduce the problem"... there's no way to eliminate it entirely.

    If you or anyone else feels better about lubing these pins, then by all means do so. Me? I don't have the time, inclination or money to spend on something that at best is only going to prolong the inevitable. As I said before, that money would be better spent solving the problem once and for all with a decent set of aftermarket rotors. That's just my 2 cents worth.
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