Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

trickster · December 2005

Your welcome.

trickster · December 2005

May i suggest that you change the ASD,(auto shutdown)and the fuel pump relays, and any "questionable" fuses that relate to the problem. Many electrical accessarires in the vehicle utilize relays to transmit current to the component(s). If the relay(s) are defective, the components will not work properly.
Battery to ignition switch.
Switch to Power distribution centers (2 for most jeep models 1993 thru 2000).
Power distribution center,(in engine compartment), to PCM (Powertrain Control Module).
PCM to Auto Shutdown Relay(A.S.D)((which is bridged with Fuel Pump Relay(F.P.R)(if 1 is defective, then both are defective)
A.S.D relay From the Power Distribution Center fuse F2
Fuel Pump Relay from the P.D.C fuse F15,F03,and F06.

Relays are the "weak link"/ (circuit breakers) to the sensors. Without them sensors would burn out very quickly.
THIS IS where i would start. Where i had left off, both relays feed all sensors from there. IF any sensor(s) are truly, indeed, "BAD", then the OBD would have "sensed" them and alerted you.

I hope this helped you, and good luck m8.

I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.

trickster · December 2005

The only thing i can think of is pre-detonation knock. What that sounds like is when: detonation occurs before the full travel of the piston.
Anytime that you rebuild the "top end" of a engine, you give the "bottom end" a hand up. Hopefully. Putting rebuilt heads on the engine, has increased your compression rate. Resulting in heavier loads to the crankshaft and bearings,bringing "slop" to the piston(s) travel.

MY "BIG" question is: How long/far did you go, before you realised the head gasket had gone out? Check the spark plugs. I have had several spark plugs improperly gapped lately, must be the holidays

.
Make sure that you have no vacuum leaks; especially the throttle body to intake manifold. Check all your hoses. Take a piece of hose and insert in your ear canal. Take the reverse end, and listen for vacuum leaks. (you will hear a "hissing" sound.
I cannot go any further with your question, as you do not give any info about year and model.

I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.

trickster · December 2005

Take the vehicle to a "reputable transmission shop" and have them, (if equipped), to adjust the transmission bands front, and reverse. Next change the filter. Least of all, change the Lock-Out Solenoid(which is the problem, to begin with), but very good preventive maintaince to begin with.
With this done, I would go back to sleep, and dream of pulling your next Suv out of the mud.

I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.

trickster · December 2005

see reply 2376 please.

:surprise:

trickster · December 2005

THX stev and tidester for letting me hang-out with the XJ crowd

gmfan · December 2005

I agree. I really liked mine. Like I said, it was very solid until 118,000 miles. I serviced my vehicle, put synthetic in the differential etc. One of the main reason I bought it was the good reputation of the 318 engine. The only trouble I had on the engine was going through serpentine belts every 20,000 miles and replacing a water pump twice in 118,000 miles. I pamper my vehicles and I was hoping it would last. You are right, I had never owned a vehicle with as many of those problems and I had all of the problems you mentioned. In 2002, I got a Chevy Trailblazer, and it has been a good vehicle. I have 85,000 miles, and I am out only $365 in costs not covered by warranties. DC lost me, but I still like to check in on this forum to see how things are going. I still think it was a mistake DC got rid of the 318.

mmike · December 2005

Hey all, I have a 2005 5.7L JGC. I have just hit the 3,000 mile mark and am thinking about the maintenance schedule. I have had the car since August and I only drive in on the weekends. What does everybody think? Can I go by the 6,000 mile schedule instead of the 3,000 mile one? Anybody know how much the maintenance would cost? Thanks! Any advice is very helpful.

cknschneider · December 2005

Thanks for your input trickster! Its a 1996 4.0 L6. It actually was kind enough to let go in the driveway! So we didn't go far. The plugs are gapped and look good. It runs smooth and strong, just has the nasty knock now... so I've since pulled the oil pan to face the ineviteable... I pulled on each connecting rod and felt a little play in each around the crank. I just finished replacing all the rod bearings. -kept everything surgically clean and dipped each bearing in clean oil before installing. I'm putting it back together right now. Again thanks for the reply. I'll let you know how it goes.

myrick · December 2005

hey! Guess what I have the same problem. did you ever get it fixed? my jeep is a 09/93 build with a 5.2.it runs 10 to 15 minutes, or miles, and then stalls, then will not start for about 1 hour or so......... I have heard and read it is the crank shaft sensor but I can not find the freakin diagnostic plug to check the sensor...!!! Does anyone know it's location? The plug that is.. PLEASE do not guess I have covered all good guesses as well as have a chilton manual.... Although I would be very grateful for any solid info..... Dealer wants too much money for me to diagnose, much less repair.

blkhemi · December 2005

If you're talking about an OBD II on-board plug-in diagnostic port, then your Jeep doesn't have one because it is a pre-1996 build vehicle, meaning that only vehicles from '96 and up are the only ones with this feature.

rho1 · December 2005

got it was just not pluged in...thanks.

scorpa578 · December 2005

have replaced the climate control box twice... second one worked for a few days then nothing again. Has anyone had this problem? Or know of an answer? Its COLD out here!! thanks

trickster · December 2005

For a pre-'96 build try this.
Without starting the engine, turn the ignition key on,off,on,off, and finally on again. The check engine light will begin to flash.
If any codes are stored in the PCM, then the check engine will flash the the number of the first digit, pause and flash the number of the second digit. Example: code 23 will be two flashes, pause, then flash three times. A long pause will appear between individual codes, if there is more than one stored trouble code.
When all codes are indicated, it will flash a code 55: completion of code display on check engine lamp.
After the system had been repaired, the codes MUST be cleared from the PCM memory using a scan tool. Disconnecting the battery will not do this, and you run the very good possibility of ruining the new sensor(s) that you have just replaced.

I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.

trickster · December 2005

First question: Does the blower motor only work on high? If so, then change the blower motor resistor which is beside the blower motor, that is located under the glove compartment/passenger side foot well.

96jeep1 · December 2005

Hi.. I have a 96 Grand Cherokee and I am completely confused by what's wrong with my jeep. I believe there is a tranny problem because whenI am in drive and at a stand still, when I try to pull off, it takes off slow, then pick up. Now when I put the gear into either 2 or 1, it takes off like a nascar chevy. When I did the ignition test (onboard diag) it gave me the codes 45 (twice) then 43. I checked the fluid and i even purchased a new filter and fluid. HELP!!! Other than that, it runs fine for a car that has 195k on it.... :confuse:

yflysolo · December 2005

I bought my Jeep Grand Cherokee in Jan 05. Just days before leaving to Gatlinburg for my honemoon the transmission went out! It would not even engage into gear. Had it towed to the dealership and they spend 3 weeks swapping out the transmission! Luckily, they provided a Durango rental for our trip. However, the "new" transmission is giving us trouble now and the Jeep is in the dealership again. Guess what? They are going to swap the tranny again! This thing is JINXED! I want to contact Daimler-Chrysler and have them give me a NEW unconstipated Jeep..... My wife had owned 2 other Jeeps, and she had never seen the troubles we are experiencing..Any advice for me?? (Ivan in Alabama) :sick:

trickster · December 2005

Well, i,ve taken a look at the trouble codes that you have, 45 and 43. Because of the check engine flash code this could be a number of different things wrong with your tranny. Code 45 tells me: trans temp sensor, govenor pressure too low/high, or both, or O/D switch input too low for more than 5 mins. Code 43 says: cylinder mis-fire, or multiple cylinder mis-fires.

Purchasing a OBDll(OBD2) generic scan tool will give you a more detailed trouble code identification number(usually starting with p0, p1 codes narrowing down exactly what your problem is. An OBD2 scan tool can only be used on vehicles with a build date 1996 or newer. These scan tools run about $60.00 - $200.00 depending on the scan tool, and/or availability. Which ever scan tool you decide to purchase, make sure that it comes with the option to reset the trouble codes in the PCM; otherwise, you will have no choice but to go to a dealership to have the codes reset, making the purchase of an OBD2 scan tool moot.

In your situation, I/myself would just go to a dealership, and have them scan the PCM, to find out exactly what needs to be changed. If it is within your power to change these sensors relativly easy, then go for it. If not, bite the bullet and have the professionals do it.
P.S. If you do happen to get the P0,P1 codes for your problem, post them please, and I should be able to give you a online helping hand. Better yet, go buy a Haynes Repair Manual at your local part store for about $20.00. I swear by these manuals.

I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.

trickster · December 2005

Have you checked to see if there may be a factory recall, or service bulletin about your particular make,model,year of jeep? I would also check the consumer report about your make,model, and year of jeep to see if it is in fact a "bad" product. If this problem continues, i would personally, trade the lemon in on a newer model. Doing a little internet searching will answer most of your questions that you may have about your present vehicle, and what you may be looking to replace the "lemon" with.

I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.

trickster · December 2005

I think that because you only drive the vehicle on weekends, a dealership maintaince schedule may not be in order; unless this is free, or relatively free. A word of warning here, if the dealer's warranty requires that you keep every maintaince appointment in order for your warranty to be valid, then do it. I've been bitten this way, and will not make that mistake again.
Go to a lube shop, and have them change your oil, and inspect all nessasary fluids:brake,power steering,cooling,and every thing else that comes with inpection.Also(if needed) have them lube the chassis where applicable.
If the dealership way is not too expensive, then that is the route that I recommend.

I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.

sxr700 · December 2005

i broke down & brought it in,no power to engine switch,test along harness until no power detected ,spliced in new wire for ignition switch feed 4.5hrs 422.00 total
i know i would have never figured that one out ,did i get ripped off ???? anyway hope this could help someone else someday they also said for a mere $2200 they could have ripped the front end apart & put all new wires in there i dont think its even worth 2200 at this point

mccc · December 2005

I have just got a 96 cherokee from a salvage yard and i dont have the keys. the ignition cylinder has been busted out. Is there anyway to bypass the ignition

scorpa578 · December 2005

Blower motor works fine... what happens while driving down the road first you have heat then all it does is blow cold air... have checked thermostat and anti freeze levels ect..

steve12887 · December 2005

I have a 2001 jgc 4x4 4.0 I-6 with 100,000 miles. I have not had a problem (other than brakes!) until now. When I drive down the road over 50 mph, I get a vibration almost every time I go between 65 & 70MPH. I took it to the garage a few weeks back, and they said everything looks tight. I also just bought new tires for it last week, and no change. I thought it might have been a u joint or bearing. The vibration seems to be from the front. I drive roughly 30 miles to work each way at 70mph. The vibration may occur 1 or 2 times lasting 10 seconds during my commute. It starts when I reach a small incline. As soon as I let off the gas, it stops. Also, as soon as I accelerate and cause it to shift, it stops. It feels like I have my front right tire in the grooved strip on the side of the highway. Please let me know if anyone has any suggestions as I know something is wrong, but don't know what. Thanks.

cknschneider · December 2005

Well, the bearings and new oil pump install didn't go well, i packed the oild pump with petroleum jelly installed it, buttoned her back up, filled it with oil and started it only to hear a God awful rapping. Just took the pan back off and the oil pump out and the petroleum jelly never left the pump. Don't know what to do next. I can't see the shaft that drives the pump so I really can't diagnose.

trickster · December 2005

First of all, why did you pack the pump with petroleum jelly? I have never heard of this before, unless your talking about the gears, then yes, ok.
When you install the pump with a new gasket, turning the shaft so that the gear tang mates with the slot on the lower end of the distributor, or oil pump drive. The oil pump should slide easily into place. If it doesn't, pull it off and turn the tang untill it's aligned with the distributor, or oil pump drive.

I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.

trickster · December 2005

The first thing that i would do is have the front driveshaft looked at by a driveline/driveshaft specialist. This is most commonly the problem as the f/driveshaft has a double cardan u-joint at the transfer case side, and a single cardan u-joint at the front differiential side, or maybey a constant velocity joint at the front diff side. If in fact that it is a constant velocity joint at the front diff, and it's bad...then the whole driveshaft must be replaced.(cannot be rebuilt). Word of caution here: The drive shaft MUST BE installed exactly as it was taken off, or you will have severe vibration. Always have them mark the relationship of how it will be taken off, before they actually do.

Have them balance the drive shaft to find out if this is your vibration problem. If this is not the problem, then the front diff is where the problem lies.

I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.

mijeep97 · December 2005

Yesterday I was driving my 97 Jeep Cherokee around Christmas shopping and noticed that the fan was constantly running even when off. Stopped for dinner - about two hours later, went to the parking lot to turn on my car and drive home, and the jeep won't start. Nothing - no noise from the car whatsoever when I turn the key in the ignition. The fan however is still running. I tried jumping it - but no luck. I'd hate to pay $$ to have it towed - any ideas about what's wrong with it? Is there something I can do to get it to start? Finally, is it the battery? Because I considered driving back to the lot (yes, I left it there overnight) and removing/replacing the battery.

trickster · December 2005

Which fan are you talking about? The cooling fan for the radiator, or the blower motor for the climate control?
I am assuming the radiator fan. Check the cooling fan relay, in the Power Distribution Center that is located in the motor compartment. You can more than likely swap the horn relay with the cooling relay and see if the fan stops. If it does, then replace the relay. If that is not it then, check the temp sensors ( there are two) to see if they are completely plugged in. 1 sensor is for your temperature control for the motor, and the other is for the cooling fan. A typical way to check the electric cooling fan on any vehicle is to take the sensor plug off creating an open circuit, resulting in the fan running continusly. You have an open circuit. Usually when the temp sensor goes out for the cooling fan the fan will not kick in. I'm thinking relay.

I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.

trickster · December 2005

Somthing that occured to me is that have you replaced the one-way check valve? Vacuum is supplied to the climate control system by a line attached to the intake manifold. A check valve is used in this line. When detaching, note the direction of the check valve.
You can also do an automatic temperature control on-board diagnostic test. Hold the ac and the recirc buttons down, and turn the left temp control knob 1 click clockwise to do the segment test;when all the bars light up, which they should, release the buttons. Now "00" will appear, and push either a/c or recirc and a stickman will appear(indicating the fault code mode). Record the numbers, and post them, or phone a dealership about them. If a code 25 or 29 appears, the ATC module is faulty itself, and must be replaced before further testing. To clear historical faults, hold the a/c or recirc button down for 3 seconds. The faults have cleared when 2 horizontal bars appear in the display, and do not show up after several ignition cycles.

I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.

gmfan · December 2005

Steve12887- I used to own a JGC so I may be able to help you. When you say the vibration seems to occur on inclines, do you mean an incline while under some acceleration while cruising in overdrive gear? You say the vibration feels like the tire on a grooved surface...If this is what your are experiencing, this is probably a torque converter "shutter", and the problem can be fixed by doing a full transmission flush at the dealership. In my particular case, my tranny fluid needed service. Make sure you take it to a five star dealership and have them do a full flush, around $150. I would look at this service as a win/win, because you are servicing the tranny fluid and possibly fixing the problem. I am pretty confident this is your problem. Please let me know if this works for you!!!

blkhemi · December 2005

I went recently to a 5-star Jeep dealer to inquire about getting the tranny flushed on my son's '01 Laredo with the I-6 in it.

The service advisor told me that the service is around $150. What's included in the service is a complete flush BUT no filter replacement. When I asked about why not filter, he said that the way the do their flushes, it "cleans" the filter. I've never heard of this before and I wanted to get some info if any of you guys have had the service done or experienced the samething. It just seems a bit weird that the filter wouldn't be replaced.

stever · December 2005

This post may be of interest:

amigo_john, "Isuzu Trooper" #8070, 30 Jun 2003 6:46 am

Steve, Host

rjimerson · December 2005

My boyfriend has a problem with the climate control vents being stuck in the defrost mode. No air coming through the rest of the dash vents. The knob still turns, but the other vents do not engage. I was told it a 10 hour job to fix. I find that hard to believe. Did he buy a :lemon: ? Any suggestions?

hornet2 · December 2005

Thanks so much for the info. You sure seem to know alot about Jeeps. As for my recent post, it appears as if my skepticism sometimes gets the best of me. I do have one other question about the track bar, though. Because it looks like an easy swap, I've decided to give it a go by myself. The only troubling thing I see is that there may be some sort of "puller tool" needed to remove the bar where it connects to the frame. Do you have any idea what this tool is called or if it's really necessary? Any tips on the track bar replacement would be greatly appreciated. Merry Christmas/Happy Holidays to you and yours. Thanks again!

blkhemi · December 2005

Thanks once again for the help Steve. It seems like everyone I talk to tell me not to do a complete flush on the Jeep since it has 97K miles on it. I'm not sure what to do at this point.!.!. I might as well try the "few quart change" and filter and that might do some good.

skinnyguinea · December 2005

I have a 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo and am having 2 issues I can't seem to figure out. First issue is what sounds like a valve tap only when the engine is cool.. when it's heated to normal temp, it's fine. I've had this checked out and always comes back ok. The second issue is the Low Coolant sensor on the Info Display. For about 3 days now it's come on when I first start the vehicle up, but will go away(after I shut the vehicle off and start back up) when the vehicle reaches normal temp... any ideas??

steve12887 · December 2005

Thank you for the help. I will try these ideas and let you know how I make out.

rod135 · December 2005

My sons cherokee was broken into dec. 26 and the glove box-light was left open and the battery died. He tried to jump start for about 20 minutes, still would not start. I came over and finally got it started but it ran Very rough and will not idle.
2 Days before this happened I was driving his jeep and it stalled at a stop sign, but started right up again. He has not had any problems with it dying before.
Does the alarm have a cut off switch and could this be the problem? How do I reset?
He also just had a stereo installed 3 days prior. I read that new electronics could cause computer problems. Before I start replacing Fuel pumps,sensors etc...Maybe someone could help thanks.

lambik · December 2005

I had the front/rear ends and transfer case as well as all U-joints checked out ..... no problem there. The transmission was flushed and a new filter .... the old fluid was black .... but now almost a week later and it's shifting well and no discoloration of the new fluid.

Just a couple of days ago I had a small problem with the cooling system repaired at a shop (i'm on vacation and did not bring any tools) ... the mechanic id a Grand Cherokee fanatic ... he has 4 of them .... he pointed out that the noise I'm trying to eliminate is not coming from the transmission, but from a worn bearing in the AC compressor!!!

When I get home in a couple of days, I'll replace that.

This jeep runs great ... we drove aprox 500Km on a secondary hihgway ... losts of snow and ice .... the jeep not only handled very well, but was very comfortable and used about the same amount of fuel as our 4L YJ.

blkhemi · December 2005

If your JGC is a 4.0L I-6 (6 cylinder), then what you hear as "piston slap" on cold starts is considered normal in the aging process of this motor. I've had the 4.0L in some shape or form since it's debut in 1987, and all have developed the tap.tap.tap.tap.tap.tap on cold starts, especially in the winter time. If you let it idle for about 2-3 minutes, it usually goes away. The problem is too much clearance between the piston and the ring, resulting in slap until the piston has expanded in the heating process. I wouldn't get alarmed about it as one of the 4.0L engines made it all the way to 245,000 miles before the crank gave out on it and it started the noises at about 65000 miles. The one thing I do on ALL of my Jeep motors is add synthetic oil instead of conventional. It costs about 2 bucks more per quart, but the benefit outweighs the extra cost.

As for the low coolant warning, if your Jeep is full in both the resevior and the radiator, then it more than likely is the sensor that is located near the fill bottle area. Hope this helps

chandler2 · December 2005

My '03 Overland is missing that little flap also. Not sure if these hi-tech cars need that flap. I do know that if gas cap is not installed correctly, ENGINE LIGHT comes on.
chandler2

tmno8 · December 2005

I have been having similar problems with my 97 Laredo TSI. I had a new PCM installed (Like an idiot b/c the dealership said it had to be flashed) and it ran better, for about a week. Today it stalled out again, similarly to what it had been doing before. Could it be another module? BCM possibly?

trickster · December 2005

The tool that you are wondering about is called picklefork balljoint seperator to remove the component.
May i suggest that you buy the part from a parts store, or a steering and suspension outlet to save some money. Remember to always use the new nut(if supplied) and cotter pin that comes with the part. If the upper ballstud is diffucult to separate, then removing the 4 bolts that holds the frame rail bracket where the upper ballstud is in, may help you greatly.

I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.

hornet2 · December 2005

I just finished replacing the Track Bar, and, like you said, I did remove the frame rail bracket which made the job a lot easier. I also replaced the Oxygen sensor which immediately made a hell of a difference. If anyone who reads this post gets an oxygen sensor warning when you display your maintenance codes, just replace it. The difference is instantaneous and very noticeable. Thanks for all your help, Trickster. Your a great attribute to Edmunds.com.

trickster · December 2005

The best way to find out how to reset the factory alarm for your vehicle is to phone the dealership, with your V.I.N # (located on your dashboard, driverside bottom of the windscreen), and ask them how it's done. Also ask for any recalls for you make and model.(as these are free repairs)

Mention to them about the stereo, and ask for any possible conflicts, and solutions.

I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.

trickster · December 2005

I just finished replacing the Track Bar, and, like you said, I did remove the frame rail bracket which made the job a lot easier. I also replaced the Oxygen sensor which immediately made a hell of a difference. If anyone who reads this post gets an oxygen sensor warning when you display your maintenance codes, just replace it. The difference is instantaneous and very noticeable. Thanks for all your help, Trickster. Your a great attribute to Edmunds.com.

Your very welcome

Happpy Holiday TO You And Your Loved Ones

madaboutmyjeep · December 2005

Hi Steve12887 - we have a 2002 JGC - (and have had brake problems also - what's your story on that?) Anyway, we recently had problems with a vibration while going up an incline at high speed. Turns out it was missing on the 3rd & 6th cylindars and needed the valves adjusted (it cost $500) and so far so good.

gmfan · December 2005

Why not do a drain and filter change first, then 7,500 miles later do a complete flush? I have heard about the "shock" effect a complete flush can have on a tranny that has not serviced regularly.

mstoverink · December 2005

I have a 97 JGC Full time 4X4 and it has a nasty rattle coming from the back passenger side of the vehicle. I am actually stationed in Iraq right now with the Air Force so I'm affraid that's the best description I can give. My wife's Uncle was visiting and when he heard the noise he told her that it was "something about the differential." Unfortunately her Uncle is gone now...she's going to try to call him to get a little better idea of what he was talking about, but in the mean time I thought maybe someone here might know what's wrong with my Jeep. Any idea what it is? How to fix it? Cost? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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