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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jeeper2jeeper2 Member Posts: 1
    What was the solution for the non functioning speedometer and tach? I have the same problem after I recently put the charger on the battery of my '99 GC. The battery was low but not dead. I had left a light on inside the Jeep and didn't find it for a couple of days.

    I was told that only a Jeep dealer can resolve this by applying some type of reset.
  • trickstertrickster Member Posts: 113
    The clunk that you are hearing is more than likely the universal joints, on the rear driveshaft, that are worn and need to be replaced. The grating noise that you are hearing is the A.B.S. braking system trying to keep your vehicle stationary, but cannot. During severe braking, you will also hear this noise, don't be alarmed, this is normal for an A.B.S braking system, and the brake pedal will also pulsate.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • ggriffinggriffin Member Posts: 1
    My 1998 Jeep stalls at stop lights while in idle. starts back o.k. took vehicle to BuckHead Jeep in Atlanta and after they had it in shop for 2 weeks and charged me almost $1000.00 I hope it is fixed. I think I just got took. They first replaced the sparkplugs which were brand new, installed new wires, rotor, distributor cap, ignition coil and the charge was $547.00. Vehicle still cuts off in idle, Next they ordered a remanufactured pcm board that took 4 days to get(while i am paying for a rental car) and charged me another $560.00. Out of the goodness of their heart the put the old ignition coil back on and gave me a credit for$261.00. I thought dealers were suppose to have computers to tell them where the problem is located.
  • trickstertrickster Member Posts: 113
    The drain plugs are there to drain water out of the vehicle after there has been severe flooding of the vehicle, as to where the rug/carpet would have to be changed regardless.

    SO... try this. Once you have peeled back the rug in the driver's side footwell, look for anything suspicious as to where the water may be entering, pay close attention to the front tire well area. Next place a lawn spinkler under the front of the driver's side area to mimic driving on a rainy day, and locate your problem leak.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • trickstertrickster Member Posts: 113
    Wow. :surprise: It sound like they were just guessing as to what MIGHT be the problem, and didn't care that thier mistakes were being paid for by you. :mad:

    Question: Does your jeep still stall at stop lights?
    Well, did they ever check the idle air control, located on the throttle body. This sensor, will do the exact same thing when they are dirty/gummed up, or need to be changed out. Oh, and so will a throttle postion sensor.
    On a more happier note, your ignition system won't need replacment for a good while. :)

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • java2java2 Member Posts: 1
    My 1994 Grand Cherokee thumps and wants to lock up when steering is full left or right both forward and backward on dry pavement.
  • trickstertrickster Member Posts: 113
    This is pretty much normal as for all time four wheel drives. When you turn one tire is turning faster than the other one, resulting in the PCM reading this as a slipping action, thus putting the transfering power to all the wheels aka. four wheel drive. I have a '95, and it has always done that for as long as i have had the vehicle. Nothing to be alarmed about.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • momsjeepmomsjeep Member Posts: 1
    With regards to your gas tank leak. I had the same thing happen to my 2000. After doing some recall research, I found a recall on my model that was not made general because Daimler Chrysler thought it was contained to a certain number of vin numbers. The problem is that the seams in the tank has popped. I had this confirmed by my dealer's repair shop and I contacted JEEP.com with my findings on the recall which I included the recall number look for this on the us government recall link. I told them that it did not matter that my vin was not there, a tank doesn't have a vin AND the problem is the same. They paid for my new tank---I paid the labor but I had my fuel pump replaced while they were in the same area of concern so I consider that I came out pretty good. If this is the problem do not back off! It's a EPA problem as well as a car problem. Good luck! :)
  • craig111craig111 Member Posts: 2
    wonderful - thanks a lot for the help.
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    You need to try and locate a salvage yard that has a Grand the same year as yours. You could probably order the trim from Jeep, but you're going to be able to tell b/c the other trim will be weathered a little and the new will not. It will also be substantially cheaper to get this piece used. If the dent is bad enough to keep the trim clips from engaging, and you don't want to spend an arm and a leg getting it repaired at a body shop, take a hammer, pry bar, etc..., and do what you gotta do. No one will be able to see damage behind the trim, but remember that if you "break" the paint, make sure you at least sand and prime that area to keep it from rusting before covering it with the trim!
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    I know this is a late reply, but anyone who is having this problem needs to keep a close eye on the oil in the engine, especially in '99-'04 models. This seemingly minor problem can cost anything from a headgasket replacement, to a head replacement, and even an engine replacement in the 4.0 inline six. For some reason the cast iron heads on these models must have had a problem during casting. They are very prone to cracking. I have a 2000, and I've never run it hot or anything, but the night before a trip to Kentucky from Alabama, I checked the fluids and there it was. The oil looked like a milkshake. I had changed the oil 3 weeks before and there was no problem. Turns out the truck was "rigged" for auction. Luckily the stop-leak let go before I went on the trip. It would have been a real pain getting back home for a trailer and truck (towing would have cost too much!) and we probably wouldn't have gotten much further than the Tennessee line (2 hrs)! Anyway, that's something to watch out for, especially if you also lose oil pressure from time to time when idling.
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    What was the reason they said you needed to change this? What was your vehicle doing? I know you've had to have fixed this by now, so I won't tell you how to do what you've already done. Just curious as to why you needed to replace the output speed sensor. This may be what my problem is.
  • lizzullizzul Member Posts: 1
    Today when i was leaving my friends house i tried to put my '98 jeep grand cherokee in reverse and the rpm's went the higest to 3000. it wouldnt move. Also when i put it in neutral it drives as well as in drive. What could be the problem. Please Help
  • blkhemiblkhemi Member Posts: 1,717
    Thanks for the reply momsjeep. Which government recall link did you use? Also, did your JGC keep having the gas odor everytime you filled up?
  • hornet2hornet2 Member Posts: 11
    I recently had new tires put on my 94 JGC hoping that would solve the problem of a minimal pull to the right I'm experiencing while in motion. When this didn't help, I replaced the front track bar and took the vehicle in for an alignment check. Upon completion of the check, I was told that my steering was in perfect alignment. The mechanic said he looked for any damage that may be causing the pull, but could not locate any. Since my Jeep has 316K on it, should I expect that there are some things, because of age, that cannot be corrected, or is there a chance that there is another reason for the pull?
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    Take a look at all of the bushings in the frontend. The stock rubber bushings will deteriorate over time. While it's on the alignment rack, everything will be within spec, but while your actually in motion any play resulting from deteriorated bushings will show. You should be able to get your vehicle in alignment regardless of how many miles are on it as long as there is no damage to anything in the frontend. You can replace them, if need be, with stock rubber or polyurethane. Rubber will ride better but will again wear out in time. Poly bushings are more rigid and you have to keep them greased to prevent squeaking.
  • jeeper96jeeper96 Member Posts: 12
    Thanks, yeah its not to bad that i can't just try to pull it out so the clips will fit.
  • jeeper96jeeper96 Member Posts: 12
    i am thinking about putting a lift on my jeep.I already have new all terain tires but when they get worn i want to get a lift.I have heard that jeeps can only have up to 30-32 inch tires.But i think its different if you have a lift???When i make sharp turns now once in a while i will hear a small grind as if my tires are to big and scraping.so the other thing i would be woried about to is does it really make it worse for flipping? i mean i only want about a 4" lift and maybe some 33s.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    One remote possibility... some areas have crowns in the center of the road so that the slope to the right in the right hand lane makes it seem to be pulling... Of course, if there was the same crown or slope on the left hand side and you steering is set up neutral, then it would seem to pull to the left. It 'should' steer straight on a completely flat surface. Some vehicles seem much more prone to pulling or feeling as if they are pulling. I had one Pontiac years ago that rotating the tires to another position either changed the pull or got rid of it completely. Have you tried swapping the front tires to see if that changes the pull?
  • trickstertrickster Member Posts: 113
    Question for ya jeeper96: what the year,make,model of your vehicle? What size are the tires you have on now?

    Check the inside of the tires, and fenderwell, for signs of rubbbing to see if they are in fact rubbing. Generally, the lower the vehicle, the more stability you have. If you install a 4" lift, then your center of gravity raises 4", and your stability decreases moderately. DEpending on your gear ratio, and im guessing it's 3:7:3, you may have to change your gears out to a 4:1:0 ratio for 33" tires. The 3:7:3 ratio will accept up to 32" tires without putting to much pressure on the drivetrain to turn all that extra rubber around. :sick:
    The 4" lift is a good idea :shades: . Just be sure to get a good lift kit that will have everything you need, such as longer brake lines, poly bushing, new castle nuts/cotter pins where needed.ect.ect. ;

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • walkindude06walkindude06 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Grand Cherokee Limited. The problem I am having is whenever the roads are wet or snow covered the all-wheel drives slips out. It seems like it shifts to rear wheel drive. The computer on the center console shows the tires blinking green. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • hornet2hornet2 Member Posts: 11
    Thanks for the speedy reply. When I took my Jeep in to have the alignment checked, the tires only had a few miles on them. I thought new tires might correct the problem, but it still persists. Because my Jeep has high mileage, I'm assuming that it might be the bushings that are the culprit. I'm going to replace the bushings in the front end in a week or so. I sure hope that's what's causing this. Thanks again for the reply!
  • ashleaashlea Member Posts: 2
    My 05 JGC does not start if it has set for longer than a day without it being driven. I have had it in for repair 4 different times for the same problem and it still happens. I have contacted Diamler Chrysler about my JGC being a lemon and they have yet to respond. What could be causing this since nobody at the dealership has figured it out yet?
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    I would also like to know the specifics of your Jeep. I'm affiliated with both Dixie Offroad Accessories (Pell City, AL) and Rusty's Offroad Products (Rainbow City, AL), so I might could be of a little help. I currently own an '88 Wrangler, which is now a rock-crawler, and my daily driver is a lifted 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo 6cyl. Let me know of the year and model and exactly what you want to do with it. Also, if you think of any other questions let me know!
  • gccambridgegccambridge Member Posts: 24
    I have a 2005 Grand Cherokee Laredo 3.7 (WK) with 4,100 miles on it. Overall, been very happy with the car and problem free... Except...

    When the Jeep shifts from 2nd to 3rd, there is a noticeable "thump" or jerking motion... Almost as if it is holding on to 2nd a little too long... The thump is particularly noticeable 20% of the time, 70% of the time its modest, and 10% it shifts perfectly. Other shift points are smooth (making the hard shift from 2nd to 3rd even more noticeable).

    My brother's 7 year old Isuzu Trooper (with 100k miles) shifts smoother...

    Anybody have a similar problem and perhaps solution? Dealer says its "normal"... :cry:

    Thanks.
  • aroth23aroth23 Member Posts: 6
    I have a 96 Grand Cherokee and it was running fine until recently. It turns over and starts up, but the engine cuts off if you remove your foot off of the gas. The problem is sporadic and may or may not occur depending on the day. I took it to a local mechanic who believed the problem related to the alarm system. He was not able to disable the alarm or fix the problem, but provided a work around by using the key on the passenger side and then the driver's side then starting the car. This may or may not work all the time. I took it to the dealer and they provided a different work around using the keyless entry that also may or may not work all of the time. I just want it fixed. Someone I know had a 93 Grand Cherokee with a similar problem and it was the ignition coil (only a $100 problem). I mentioned this to the local mechanic and the dealership and they both dismissed this as the reason for the problem. For now I don't know if it is truly an issue with the alarm or something else. Any suggestions?
  • jules04jules04 Member Posts: 1
    I apologize up-front for my ignorance, as I am not too good with cars. I have a 2000 JGC and noticed that it has been shuttering while driving high speeds. The shutter is not constant and only happens 50MPH+. It has become more frequent, which concerns me quite a bit. Additionally, the last two times that I have stopped to fill my tank, the car will not start. I have been forced to wait 10-15 minutes before the car will start. The battery is fine and doesn't require replacement. I am getting feedback that it is a transmission problem, but am looking for some other opinions. Any info you guys have to offer would be AWESOME! Thanks in advance! :cry:
  • blkhemiblkhemi Member Posts: 1,717
    Have you had your Jeep in for the transmission recall yet? Your problem could be that it is receiving water in the tranny's dipstick hole, which causes erratic shifts and the end results could cause fire because of the tranny working overtime.
  • wojoohwojooh Member Posts: 2
    My 99JGC has the same noise. What did you learn?
  • gccambridgegccambridge Member Posts: 24
    Yup - bought the car knowing about recall so never used A/C until recall was done... fluid level and color is good... taking it in to another dealer to get a "second" opinion... we'll see... thanks!
  • jeeper96jeeper96 Member Posts: 12
    Trickster,
    I have a Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo and this parts embarressing i think i have 31" tires but i am not forsure because i keep getting confused on how to read tires.I think that you take the P235 and X it by the /75 am i correct??because that would be 31"and that sounds like it would be right.so what do you think?sorry i know it must just be a girl thing hehehe. :blush:
    -Jeeper 96
  • jeeper96jeeper96 Member Posts: 12
    Hey
    that is really nice.well,i have a 96 grand cherokee laredo and as you can see in my last message i am not totally forsure about my tires size.so i just want a small lift and was thinking about doing it this summer and i just want a few inches on the lift and the tires. i don't want a monster truck because i would then have to put little step bars on it to get into it.so just something that will look kinda cool to go along with my new custom paint job,its like when you start to go custom you just can't stop. :)-Jeeper96
  • tmno8tmno8 Member Posts: 2
    I hope your problems are fixed. I did the exact same thing only one month ago on my 1997 JGC. Now, it is back in the shop with similar problems, related to the Body Control Module. I really, really feel your frustation.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    What brand tires do you have? Best to look to the manufacturer for the specs. For example, I went to michelin dot com and looked for SUV/4WD tires under "Tire Catalog". I chose LTX MS under that list and then clicked on "View detailed sizes and specs for this tire." It brings up all the sizes with specs. For example, 235/75/R15 is about 28.8 in overall diameter. 235/75/R16 is about 29.9 overall diameter. 265/75/R16 shows to be about 31.6 overall diameter. Then they show 31/10.5/R15C with a diameter of 30.8 . This table also has the width, rim width range, etc.

    So, the mfg reading from the table would be better than trying to calculate it out with rounding, etc :-) Looking at the table as well, you would probably have to adjust for rim width :-) good luck whatever you decide to do.

    bill
  • txman1txman1 Member Posts: 3
    GC,

    I too had that problem, which I called the dealer about. You've described the problem perfectly, even regarding the other gears shifting smoothly. The service manager told me that this "jerking" motion was due to 2nd gear being such a low gear. I've also noticed some struggle when going up steep hills. It seems as though you've had better luck than I have. I've had problems every 3,000 miles that I've had to take it in for; it now has a little over 10,000 on it.
  • dakotarae1dakotarae1 Member Posts: 3
    Hi, I've got a 2000 JGC Laredo. Have had this same transmission problem for about a year now. I've read some other problems like mine but couldn't really get a diagnosis from anyone. Anyway, for some reson it seems worse the colder it gets. After I first crank it in the morning and get going it doesn't want to shift from 2nd to 3rd. It'll "Wind out" up to around 4000 Rpms then I usually have to let off the gas and it'll shift...sometimes. Jeep dealership couldn't find anything the first couple of times I had it in (still under extended warranty). Well this time they recognized the prob but I didn't leave it with them. Anyway, It just hit 80,000 miles, we changed the fluids, filter, etc. Shifts out a tad better now but still not right. Also wondering if anybody out there is familiar with adjusting the transmission bands. Cluless on that...and noone seems to know. Anyway, got a $2000 deductible with the warranty so if the fix happens to be something cheaper then I'd rather do it myself.Open to any advice and suggestions. Thanks so much.
    Paula
  • dakotarae1dakotarae1 Member Posts: 3
    I have a $200 deductible not $2000...yall must have thought I was nuts. Anyway!!! Paula
  • gccambridgegccambridge Member Posts: 24
    txman1,

    Thanks for the response. Interesting. Dealer's answer to me was Euro (Mercedes) trannies are harsher and that new trannies designed with less "slip" to prolong life... I actually took it to another dealer today (second opinion wouldn't hurt). So far, they seem mystified and have actually held the Jeep overnight for "more tests"... Will let you know what the diagnosis is.

    I also reviewed the gear ratios and while there is a difference in ratios b/w the 3.7 tranny (Mercedes) and 4.7/Hemi tranny (Chrysler) - relatively speaking, differences don't seem that huge (I've driven a Durango with the Hemi and same Chrysler transmission and it shifted fine across all gears too)... This tranny is used in several Mercedes cars (E Class for example) since 1995 - makes me wonder, could they really all be like that? :confuse:
  • pd48coolpd48cool Member Posts: 1
    Having trouble with the battery draining slowly .Usually it drains itself over night
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    Your transmission is the 45RFE, which they began using in the '99 and later models (WJ's). This transmission does not require band adjustments, so don't let any shops tell you otherwise. I also have a 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo. Since they recognized the problem with yours, did they tell you what it was exactly? I'm having the exact same problem with mine, but I don't have the extra cash lying around to "guess" at what the problem may or may not be. I've got a couple of good ideas of what it is, but I was wondering if you knew EXACTLY what it is. Anyway, I'll check back for a reply, and I hope this information helped you out a bit! If you can tell me what has to be done or replaced, I'll do it and then post my findings and steps used to fix it.
  • clarkkentclarkkent Member Posts: 154
    I have a 2000 GC 4.7 L. I just got back from a 4000 mile trip. I have 95000 on the car, good air pressure in the tires, a recent tune up, and I got an average of 17 mpg.

    It was mostly HW miles at 75 mph.

    Is that about the right mileage?

    I would have expected 19 to 20 as it was level cruising with the Cruise Control most of the time.

    What is everyone else getting?

    Thanks, CK
  • dakotarae1dakotarae1 Member Posts: 3
    Hey,I didn't actually leave it with them..had to straighten some things out with my warranty, anyway, they have no clue they said they'd have to tear it down. So, no clue yet! This sucks, I've put so much money into the looks of this thing for it to be doing this.
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    Hey, here is some info that may help you out. I believe you said your tires are 235/75-15's, which are a metric size and are probably the stock size for your truck. These are somewhere around 28.9" tall, when they come off the tire line. After they're mounted on rims, aired up, and 4,000+ lbs of Grand Cherokee is dropped on them, they're actually somewhere between 27.5" and 28" tall. For future reference, to convert a metric tire size (235/75-15) to a standard Light Truck tire size (31x10.50R15, for example), use this formula:
    Width x Aspect Ratio = Section Height;
    Section Height x 2 = Combined Section Height;
    Combined Section Height + Wheel Diameter = Tire Diameter    ;
    (Example: 235/75-15)
    235mm x .75 = 176.25mm (a ratio is a percent; 75%or.75);
    176.25mm x 2 = 352.5mm (section above and below rim);
    [Then you need to convert the mm to inches by dividing by 25.4, which makes 352.5mm = 13.9"]
    13.9" + 15" = 28.9" tire height.
    (I actually had to relearn that formula as I was typing it!)
    Now that you know your current tire height in inches, we can forget about that for a while. I noticed that someone else replied to you about your tires and whether or not they rub. If they do, something isn't right! That "grind" you hear has got to be either some of your inner fenderwell is lose or something not related to your tires. As far as being easier to flip, the higher your center of gravity, the higher your chance of rolling. Most rollovers can be prevented by the driver. Once lifted, you'll notice that your Grand's body roll will have increased during turns and in curves. All you have to do is stay off the "go pedal". Lots of people seem to drive their SUV's like they're sports cars. That's dangerous enough stock. Add a lift and you've more than doubled your chances of rolling in a turning or lost control situation that could be just "scary" at stock height. Now I am definitely not trying to scare you away from lifting your truck! You'll just have to think about how careful you are now, and then be triple careful. You'll be a good bit more stable with a 2" to 2.5" lift compared to a 4" lift. Now I know your probably thinking "this guy is a sissy", but from the time I bought my 2000 Grand in Aug.'05, I could not wait to get it lifted. I finally convinced my wife to let me lift it as a Christmas gift to myself, and on Christmas Eve '05, in my garage, it took me about 45 minutes to add 2" in the rear and 2.5" in the front. Now it doesn't look like the front fenders are sitting on the front tires. And I had tires two sizes up from stock on it, with no rubbing, before I lifted it! This posting has become huge, so I'll start another in just a little bit! - dixiecrawler
  • havisofthavisoft Member Posts: 1
    hi i'm new here my blower motor did stop running i try to chance fuses around dident work after that the Check Engine Light was on how do i get it fikst or reset.

    mamby som body now wy the blower moter :cry: suddenly stops

    thanks harry :)
  • 2000jeepgc2000jeepgc Member Posts: 1
    I have a 00 JGC and it is leaking what appears to be transmission fluid, but all of the levels are fine. About a month ago I wasn't able shift out of park unless I let it warm up for a minute or two. Just yesterday I was driving and the car all of the sudden revved really high and wouldn't shift gears until I let off the gas. Is this a common issue? I plan on taking it in--I just want to know what to expect when I get there. Thanks.
  • jeeper96jeeper96 Member Posts: 12
    thanks,i haveall terrain liberators.
  • jeeper96jeeper96 Member Posts: 12
    don't mean to interupt but i have a quick question,why did you put a 2" in the back and a 2.5" in the front wouldn't it make it uneven?
  • venturmaxventurmax Member Posts: 2
    My Grand Cherokee has about 95k miles and in the last few months has had an intermitant high piched squel or whine in the front axle. It starts at 10 mph and goes on up to highway speeds. The whine isn't affected by applying brakes, slowing or speeding up. It only goes away under 5 or 6 mph. It happens in hot or cold weather. Recently it has been happening all the tme. Any ideas?
  • robert55robert55 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1995 the blower motor will not turn off after I run on high speed.The blower motor woks fine on all three speeds. The motor runs at a slow speed with the key off. I was wondering if this could be the resistor.
  • trickstertrickster Member Posts: 113
    Check the front brake pads to see if they are worn down. There is a low brake pad indicator, which is a piece of flat iron on the brake pads which touches the rotors, that indicates when your in need of new brakes. This is probably what the squeal/whine is all about. On the other hand, if that is not your problem, and you have a 2-wheel drive, then have your front outer axle bearings checked. If indeed they are bad, then you should get a shimmy/vibration when you turn the vehicle left/right.

    If your brake pads are bad, and you choose to take them to a brake shop, and you have a 2- wheel drive, have them inspect and repack the front outer axle bearings.(most brake shops will do this for a small extra fee)

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
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