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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    We had a '99 & '00 Grand Cherokee Laredo. Brake problems on both. Had a sticking caliper on the front...if it is that you would be able to feel the heat. The wheel would get hot enough to burn you if you touched it...the sticking caliper caused it to get hot enough to warp the rotor and heat up the wheel. So, if he can't find heat it must be somthing else.
  • gbabegbabe Member Posts: 1
    check engine light comes on on my 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee, it
    has 54,000 miles the code says fouled #1plug, but the dealership said further check showed uneven compression and
    a bad valve on one side,this has been this way since we purchased it with 36,000 miles on it, after getting a carfax
    I think this vehicle had problems since 795 miles with engine,
    now the light is out, but still runs rough, and acts like it
    will run off with me when stopped. The idle races.Help!
  • asiandudeasiandude Member Posts: 13
    '97 JGC 4.0L with 42RE tranny: when moving slowly, the shift to second gear can result in a clunk, and when slowing to a halt (from speed) and shifting to neutral the effect is like the car being rear-ended! Anyone any ideas on the fix for this annoying problem? The tranny fluid level is fine and the colour a healthy bright red. The rest of the shift sequences seem ok. Thanks for any help.
  • cindymadsencindymadsen Member Posts: 1
    My son just informed me he can't shift into 4-wheel drive on his 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. I went to check this out. You can't shift into any drive. When shifting lever, it goes right through everything. I'm afraid to ask, but does anyone know what caused this?
    Thank you.
  • djb101djb101 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem on my JGC in Minnesota. Never found out what the problem was - dealer never said, but contacted www.mnlemonlawyer.com and they were great help in getting me out of the vehicle.
  • stevevostevevo Member Posts: 4
    I have 90 Jeep Cherokee with inline 6 4.0 engine that won't start. I was having problems with it overheating and took the head off and it was warped. Put back together and it won't start now no matter what I do. It has compression, and the timing wasn't touched. There is spark at plugs and the fuel rail is full. I think it may be the Crankshaft Positon Sensor but it ohms out like the book says and i have a friend that has an 87 and we ohmed his out and it is the same. It doen't change states when cranking though. Should it? Any assisstance will be appreciated.
  • 2004jeeper2004jeeper Member Posts: 2
    I posted back in Oct 05. My 2004 JGC developed a water leak into the driver side floor well between one rain and the next. The water (a lot) collects while the vehicle is off and parked. The water is coming from above, and not being thrown up during driving. It is apparent that some flashing/seal has worked loose. I have not found the source, and have not yet been to the dealer. I also am looking for ideas.

    Not much help in any of the forums I have been to. Replys always refer to AC condenser leak or water from below.
  • chase5chase5 Member Posts: 2
    I have a '93 Grand Laredo w/ 145k. Runs fine until it warms up. about 10 minutes originally I would hear a metal on metal screech. When I stop for a light the vehicle seems to lunge. That has stopped. Now after about 10 minutes it pulls to the right while driving straight, but is fine when I first start driving ?
  • rock1rock1 Member Posts: 12
    Same problem with my 96 JGC. Jeep dealer was no help.
    My non-Jeep mechanic found the problem.
    When it rained, water was coming in under the driver's door seal, at the bottom of the seal. To stop the leak, remove the black seal from the body and re-glue. Don't skimp on the sealant. This solved my leak.
    PS-there were no cracks or cuts in my seal. The factory skimped on the original sealant.
  • jeepster9jeepster9 Member Posts: 23
    Folks this has been one of my best Jeeps so far. A couple of minor problems and my dealer fixed them w/o any problem under warranty. I've beat this thing (02 Overland) on several long trips, averaged 70 mph on all these trips. Never had any of the posted problems and even on my 99 and I would gladly buy another Jeep. Maybe I've been lucky or something else? My Dealer has always fixed any problems the first time without needing to come back again. Just my experiences for 7 yrs of owning two Jeeps and 100K miles total. I just bought a 2006 SRT-8! A fun vehicle but spendy to buy. Good Luck. Gene :confuse:
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    As far as the metal-on-metal screeching and lunging are concerned, maybe someone else would know what that was, unless you already know what was causing it. As far as your Grand pulling to the right while driving straight, that could be caused by irregularly worn front tires. I would say it could also be your alignment, but I believe that would cause the problem all the time, not just after the vehicle is warmed up. Your tires, on the other hand, could be your problem, as I mentioned above. When you first get on the road, your tires are still cold and stiff, especially in colder climates or even winter in the South. After a few minutes of steady driving, however, your tires get "warmed up" and are more pliable or flexible, which could allow an unevenly worn tread surface to take over you steering. Check that out and see if maybe it helps you out. -dixiecrawler
  • blanksterblankster Member Posts: 29
    Just noticed that the new Overlands coming in no longer have the platinum clad wheels. Chrome clad ala Limited is being substituted. Also the mileage on the 5.7 Hemi is back to 14/19 Vs 15/20 on earlier Grand Cherokees. What Gives? I see something about the platinum wheels being on hold so I am wondering are the ones out there having a problem or are they going to supply another type of wheel?
  • chase5chase5 Member Posts: 2
    thanks dixiecrawler, I'll give it a try.
  • jeeps2jeeps2 Member Posts: 45
    Just looking into replacing my timing chain. Just under 90,000. Thinking it might be time. Still runs great, 96 GC.Replaced the belt and pan gasket, thats it other then brakes and tires and battery. Same plugs and wires from the factory. Trickster, you out there? How hard is it to replace the timing chain on a 96 GC 4.0? Doesn't look to bad. :confuse:
  • yellowfinyellowfin Member Posts: 8
    dagoods25, I too have the 4.7 V8. According to TSB 21-011-05 REV A this only applies to WK's w/3.7L, LX's w/5.7L or LX AWD's w/3.5L. How did you convince "they" to work your transmission? It also states that the WK had to be built prior to 03JUN05. Was your WK built prior to 03JUN05? The reason I ask is that I now have 2,300 miles on mine and preparing for a cross country run. Should I be concerned? Thanks for any insight, and to anyone else out there who has had this transmission issue with their 4.7L WK.
  • tdad71302tdad71302 Member Posts: 18
    this is a question for my mom. she has a 1990 dodge spirit and it's over
    heating. i've changed the thermostat and it's still doing it. it's not leaking
    anywhere. so i'm not thinking it's the water pump or the radiator. come on guys
    you can always help me out. talk to me.
  • davidc1davidc1 Member Posts: 168
    I wish I can help. Have you checked with a garage? I assume you got enough coolant with the right mixture.
  • dagoods25dagoods25 Member Posts: 13
    hello yellowfin, I am aware that the TSB applied only to the V6's, but I can assure you that mine had the same problem. If you check earlier postings, there seemed to be a ton of people complaining of this problem. The times it happened to me here is what happened: My car had been sitting from the previos night, and when I drove it the next morning and used my AC, a few miles later I got a warning of "Transmission over temp" and had to pull over, the car was still working,and the check engine light stayed on. Have your car checked at a dealership, is should be covered under warranty. They can probably seal the area around the tranny just as a safety measure. 2000 miles is about when it happened. Good luck, let me know what happens.
  • tdad71302tdad71302 Member Posts: 18
    thanks
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    Check for blockage in your hoses. The radiator core can also get stopped up. Make sure that when you look at the fluid in the radiator, it looks as it should and not cloudy, milky, or muddy. Another thing that's not as obvious is the chance that the thermostat you put in is defective. It's happened to me. Also, let the car warm up to normal operating temperature and feel the upper hose. Be careful, though, because if that thermostat is working right the upper radiator hose will burn you. It should get noticeably hotter when the thermo opens. Worse case scenario, cracked head, but we'll assume that it's something basic! Also waterpumps don't always "leak" when they go bad! -dixiecrawler
  • tdad71302tdad71302 Member Posts: 18
    thanks alot. that may have been the answer. i'll have to take a look tomorrow.
  • volleyballmanvolleyballman Member Posts: 1
    So here it goes . I have a 93 Grand cherokee and about 3 weeks ago it started bucking and backfireing after i got on it for about 1/2 mile to catch up with someone top speed was 60.
    After about 1 mile i had to slow down for someone to turn when i was able to go I hit gas (but not hard) and engine died and started bucking and backfireing,pulled off the road and turned off engine for 2 min. and started no problem. Happened a couple of times since took it to shop they replaced map sensor. It worked good for 3 weeks but came back again took back again they cant find anything So I need your HELP Sorry so long
  • myjeepprobmyjeepprob Member Posts: 1
    1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee when you first start it i will not get above 1800 to 2000 rpms it will just spit and sputter.After being driven for about 15 min it is fine and changes great but even if i let it warm up for 10 to 15 minutes it still does it.
  • 96jeep196jeep1 Member Posts: 3
    Hello folks.... I've posted here before about the slow takeoff... I purchased one of those scanner tools and it helped out quite a bit.. However, i am stuck with two codes that I cannot seem to find out how to fix.. They are 1762 and 1763 respectively... Now I do know it has something to so with the Govenor Pressure Sensor.. Now the next thing i need to do is find out where the hell it is located and how to fix it.. My Hayes manual unfortunately does not cover that part of the repair process.. What do i do guys and gals??????image
  • andyl160andyl160 Member Posts: 1
    I've got a 01 Grand Cherokee with the same problem. It doesn't start smoking till after 10-15 minutes of driving.

    I've had the rotors and pads replaced and still have the problem.

    Just brought it back to the dealer (will cost me) to troubleshoot. I did make the comment about checking the axle seals. Will let you know how I make out.
  • gccambridgegccambridge Member Posts: 24
    Probably a naive question, but my 3.7 WK (2005 Grand Cherokee) has 4.5k miles on it and the tranny was just overhauled... Dealer believes it was a manufacturing defect (tranny recall done 3 weeks after I got car and there was definitely no water)... Tranny would bang into 3rd gear... First dealer I took it too actually said it was "normal"...

    Anyway, it is fixed and shifts fine. I'm curious about longevity. Is an overhauled tranny "as good as new"? In buying the WK my intent was to keep it till the wheels fall apart... But the Commander is sure looking nice these days... :confuse:

    Thanks!
  • jipsterjipster Member Posts: 6,244
    I have a 2002 JGC and had heat on the driver side and air conditioning on the passenger side. I have duel climate control. I had a Jeep dealer fix it for $800.00. They replaced the actuator and housing. This was done 12/27/2005. Last night while driving 2/21/2006 it broke again. Cold air on passenger side and warm on driver side. Today I am calling Chrysler. I am tired of driving a freezing cold Jeep. I live in Northern Wisconsin. This is a problem on other JGC too. At mycarstats.com there are others with the same problem.
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • asiandudeasiandude Member Posts: 13
    Remove the transmission oil pan and filter and you will see the governor pressure sensor near the rear band lever -opposite corner, with wiring coming from it. Easy enough to replace, but can be an expensive part. Good luck.
  • vinaym76vinaym76 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have 1996 Jeep cherokee with 114 k miles. Recently it could not start. I suspected it was battery..but then it was not..I have to tow it to Mechanic. Now they have changed temperature sensor and throttle sensor..and flushed fuel system costing me 500$. After two days..again the vehicle did not start. I towed it back to them..This time they said they forgot to calibre the computer. After two days again it did not start. I have to tow it to them now..Any suggestions...what cud be wrong..I think I made mistake by buying A Jeep.
  • mikeysjeep97mikeysjeep97 Member Posts: 4
    Ive got a 97 jeep grand cherokee, about 144,000 miles, ive had the check engine light come on a couple times in the past few months, one for a bad spark plug, and then a short in my O2 sensor before the catalytic converter. Ive just replaced my exhaust, and am faced with a new problem. When my sensor was acting up, and then i got it replaced hoping it would solve the problem. My car accelerates up to 30mph, after that, stops accelerating, but the engine seems to stall at a certain rpm, then i start hearing a clanking noise, and my car jerks a little bit before it starts to go again. Its weird because i cant easily explain it, sounds like someone tapping on my engine, my light is not on so i dunno what it is, and the auto store doesnt know, if anyone can give me advice on how to fix it, id appreciate it very much.
  • jmurrey0601jmurrey0601 Member Posts: 1
    I have a '94 JGC. Its in great shape and runs fine. My problem is the drivers side headlight has a mind of its own. The bright doesn't work at all, and the low beam will occasionally decide to not work either. I haven't changed the bulb. Any suggestions?
  • rkmalonerkmalone Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 1989 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer. It originally had the 2.5 fuel injected 4 liter engine...the gut I bought it from put a 2.8 carburated engine in it. Why is my 2.5 tranny not shifting properly or at all into 3rd and 4th gears? What can be my problem here? Maybe a vacuum problem or a computer problem? Or a tranny for a carburated engine to be put in it? Is there a way to bipass the censor from the carb to tranny? My local Jeep dealer said that this isn't even suposed to hook up, it's in no way possible. I find that hard to believe since I can drive it down the road. Any help or idea's would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    Check the connection at the rear of the headlight to see if maybe it's loose or has some debris in it and then try it. More than likely you need to change the bulb being that your high beam doesn't work at all. It's a good idea to change both headlights at the same time even if the other is fine. If you don't, you'll be able to tell the difference. Keep the good one as an emergency spare. Maybe this will help you out. - dixiecrawler
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    It sounds more like you have a transmission problem to me. Make sure that your fluid level is where it needs to be. While your at it, check the antifreeze in your radiator and make sure it doesn't look funny. I'm not sure, off the top of my head, if your model has a tranny cooler or not (inside the radiator), but I'd guess that it does. Sometimes the lines that are plumbed into the radiator will leak or rupture, causing an unhealthy fluid exchange. Tranny fluid doesn't cool engine blocks very well, neither will your transmission operate properly, or even last very long (few days if you're lucky) with antifreeze for fluid. If your fluids are fine, it could start to get complicated.
    - dixiecrawler
  • mikeysjeep97mikeysjeep97 Member Posts: 4
    I checked my fluids and all is well. Yes it has line for a tranny cooler, but the fluid looks good. It started acting up ever since i replaced my o2 sensor, i dont know if that has anything to do with it, i dont know if its something electrical causing this, iam just out of ideas on what it could be.
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    I'm going to have to think some more about the problem you're having, but in the meantime, double check your O2 sensor's connection and make sure it's not loose. You could be right about the sensor having something to do with the problem. Since pretty much everything is run by the computer in today's vehicles, one little reading that the computer gets that is just a little off can seriously alter the performance for the worse. Anyway, double check that connection and let me know if that gets it. As soon as I get some more ideas I'll get back to you. If anyone else has the answer to this problem, feel free to let us know. Take it easy! - dixiecrawler
  • monthyjeepprobmonthyjeepprob Member Posts: 1
    I was driving last night and 18minutes into my drive home the car stalled. I would push the gas pedal :mad: but the car would not accelerate. At that time i stopped the car and tried again and the car would accelerate and shift to 2nd with a little delay but it would not go on to any other shifts. I tried shifting manually from 1st to 2nd and then to Drive shift but I would not go to any other shifts. After accelerating and the car shifting to 2nd, as I pressed on the gas pedal the rpm increased to 4000 but the car would not shift and being 2nd shift I cant drive fast. what could be the problem... :confuse:
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    It could be either the input speed sensor or the output speed sensor. Is your check engine light on? If it is you can take it somewhere like Advance Auto Parts and they'll put a code reader on it for free and let you know what trouble codes your truck is giving. If the light isn't on the vehicle computer doesn't think anything is wrong, therefore it won't give you any trouble codes. This probably isn't it, but always check your fluids first. Sometimes this is the cause of the problem. If I think of anything else I'll let you know.
    - dixiecrawler
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    Depending on who rebuilt the tranny, if it's done thoroughly, they can last just as long as a new one, but they're alot cheaper. - dixiecrawler
  • evaddaveevaddave Member Posts: 156
    That happened to our '02 GC Ltd. They ended up replacing some electronic part in the transmission. I can't remember the details about it, but I do remember being glad that it was covered by the extended warranty (with a deductible, of course). Our Jeep had just gone out of the regular warranty.
  • hgghavamihgghavami Member Posts: 3
    Dan, I have the same exact problem, and after leaving the car with the dealer for 10 days, the answer is that this is normal!!!! the computer tries to run the engine very lean causing it to hesitate. On mine, it happens at low rpm 1200-1700 rpm I hope they come out with a patch for the computer. I find it to be a very uncomfortable experience, and hope Daimler Chrysler does something about it.
  • casper00casper00 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 JGC laredo.It's 3 months old.Have a noise cuming fron under the floor console.Dealer cannot find problem.Wondering if anyone else is having this problem.
  • gfarnsworthgfarnsworth Member Posts: 2
    Have your Jeep dealer check vacuum harness. I had similar problem which also can affect cruise control operation. All fixed now. FP number 55115900-AG VAC LINE 24028057
  • gfarnsworthgfarnsworth Member Posts: 2
    Noise issues in my '04 GC. "clicking/cracking noises from steering column and binding/vibrating from front drivetrain low speed sharp turns especially to left.
  • mstoverinkmstoverink Member Posts: 22
    Just taking a stab at this one but it sounds like cv (constant velocity) joint problems. I'm not exactly sure how the front axel is on the 04's, but check behind the weel and find the axel. Near the back of the weel you should find a flexible rubber "boot" that covers the cv joint on your axel. The purpose of the cv boot is to hold grease in and around the joint for lubrication. If that boot tears and is not replaced quickly, the grease comes out and the metal on metal friction causes the joint to overheat and expand. Once that happens it will start popping, mainly when you turn that direction. In my experience the popping happens more often, or gets louder, when you're accelerating through the turn. If you find that the boot is torn you can get it replaced and repacked with grease at just about any mechanic. Unfortunately this will probably not stop the popping as the metal joint has been warped. The best way to stop the popping is to replace the axel...which, believe it or not, is not as expensive as you might think. Of course if the vehicle is still under warranty that shouldn't be an issue. Good luck, hope this helps. -Mark
  • mikeysjeep97mikeysjeep97 Member Posts: 4
    the connection is good between the O2 sensor, i know its probably a sensor acting up, i just dont know which one, or if its the wire connecting the sensor to the OBD computer.
  • rth54rth54 Member Posts: 5
    My 96 jgc did the same thing. Had difficulty starting on several occasions then finally refused to start at all. Turned out to be the fuel pump located in the gas tank. Cost over $700 to get the job done. That was 2 years ago and haven't had any problems with it since. Good Luck. rth54
  • autoidiot1autoidiot1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Jeep GC. I have a leak in the line that sends windshield wiper fluid to the windshield. I can see where the leak is but cannot get to it to repair. Best that I can tell, I need to remove the windshield wipers to get the plastic covering off so that I can get to the "innards". I've removed the top bolt on the WW but the wiper will not come off. Is there a trick to this or do I need to remove something else? Anybody got an idea?
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    I haven't removed the wipers on my 2000 GC before, but it looks like after you have removed the bolt (I'm assuming you're talking about the bolt the arm pivots on) the wiper arm assembly should pull right off. If it's stuck don't try to pry it off with anything, because you could damage the arm or linkage. You could try a battery terminal puller. It should be about the right size. If you don't have one, Auto Zone will "loan" tools if you leave a deposit. If there isn't an Auto Zone near you, maybe there are other parts stores near you that will do the same. Let me know if this works for you.
    -dixiecrawler
  • ricornricorn Member Posts: 2
    The lens on my (driver's side) front corner light (side marker) is broken and the headlight has also got a little loose ('95 JGC). I can't find the screws that secure the light assembly so that I can replace the corner light and tighten the headlight. Would appreciate any suggestions.
    Thanks,
    Sonny
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