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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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  • ray29ray29 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2003 Grand Jeep Cherokee and have been having problems with the heater. The fan works but no heat.
    Same problem with the a/c. If the ignition is turned off then restarted...sometimes the heater will start working immediately. Sometimes the heat will start coming after about 30 minutes of driving. I have had it back to the dealer 5 times since Dec 05 and it is still not fixed.
    long cold winter. anybody have any ideas?
  • nickgriffith1nickgriffith1 Member Posts: 1
    HI I HAVE A REALLY LOAD RATTLE KNOCK IN THE ENGINE OF MY CHEROKEE THE NOISE IS CONSTANT BUT AT HIGHER SPEEDS BECOMES QUIETIER AND FASTER BUT IS THERE ALL THE TIME, THE GARAGE TOOK THE ROCKER COVER OFF AND SAID IT SEEMS LIKE IT IS COMING FROM THE BOTTOM END AND ISNT THE PUSH RODS DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEAS.. THANKS A LOT
  • mmosbymmosby Member Posts: 1
    Recently had the drivers door handle repaired (plastic broke) The mechanic used a screw and screwed the handle into the metal frame. The mechanic called asking how to turn the alarm system off. Told him to put key in drivers door to disarm. When I picked up it up, the radio turns on but there's no sound from the speakers. Are there speaker wires in the driver's side door? Am trying to find wiring diagrams for the speakers (infinity sound system) no luck. Yes, I asked the mechanic, he said he didn't touch anything and of course if he knows something he's not giving up the info.
    Any suggestions? Thank You.
  • dmitch1dmitch1 Member Posts: 2
    I have had my 2006 JGC Laredo for 2 months now. It has about 3000 miles. For the past 2 days the tire light on the dash has been on consistently. At a glance by the service dept (not a complete check), the rep said it may be a change in temperature - one day being very hot and the next very cold. But it should even out by now. Anyone had a similar problem?
  • bradfclbradfcl Member Posts: 1
    looks like I was searching for solutions to my jeep's problem, to only find MY DAD POSTED THIS THREAD!!! haha, we still havent gotten the problem solved. I am taking the Jeep back to the dealership tomorrow. THEY WILL FIX MY CAR I SPENT $1000 ON IT AND NO RESULT. Will let you know when I find out what happened. Meantime, let me know if you find out what happened.
  • mkrakemkrake Member Posts: 6
    I love my 97 Jeep. It's the first car i've ever owned! But i just got the news it blew a head gasket maybe cracked the block. :sick: How much will a head gasket cost? Does automatic trans and 4x4 make this more or less difficult... i.e. costly? How much would a total engine repair cost? Does it also need 02 sensor, radiator, fan, thermestat, etc? :confuse: It has 150K, no other problems, and it's my baby. Please please please help this Jeep girl out!
  • birtbirt Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 5.2L 318 it cranks but will not start, replaced plugs, wires, cap, roter, Cam position sensor (pick up coil), coil, and computer (pcm). (still no spark) :sick:
  • ancjeepancjeep Member Posts: 6
    YOU HAVE A FAULTY OIL SENDING UNIT. THATS NOTHING MAJOR
    BUT YOU DO WANT TO GET IT LOOKED AT SOON.
  • insign25insign25 Member Posts: 2
    check the battery terminal connections, or may be a problem with the fuel pump. Get a fuel presusure test and check the fuel pump. Also check the fuel filter, if you didn't replace, get a new one, may be clogged. Good luck.
  • tcn2ktcn2k Member Posts: 277
    How much does this cost for the part and is it easy to do it yourself?
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    If you just blew the headgasket the internal damage won't be all that bad. Just make sure the shop that is doing the work sends the head to have it magnafluxed to make sure it isn't also cracked. Even if it's not cracked, the gasket replacement will cost quite a bit. The gasket itself isn't that much, but the labor involved is where you'll see most of the cost. Could cost around $500. They have to remove the entire top of the engine, which takes a while. If the head is also cracked, don't buy a 'new' head unless you've just got that kind of money. If the shop asks, tell them to find you a head out of a salvage yard and have it inspected. Do you have the 4.0 inline six or the V-8? On my 2000 Grand with the 4.0 it cost right over $800 total at my own Granddad's shop. The labor is what got me. I would have done it all myself, but I had to go out of town, so I just let them have it. Let us know what you find out. - dixiecrawler
  • nick39nick39 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Grand Cherokee, runs great except....when i get down to 1/4 tank my jeep hesitates, stalls and sputters. I have tried fuel cleaners etc..to no avail. As soon as I put gas in it and get it over 1/4 tank it runs great. Any suggestions?? Think something maybe in the bottom quarter of the tank??
  • birtbirt Member Posts: 3
    Thanks, I checked the fuel its OK. Getting fuel, cranks but will not start (no spark), I checked the wiring from the sensors to the computer all check out. I’m checking the timing now the only way I can do this is to check the markings on the chain. If there is anyone who can give me any help that would be great.
  • davidc1davidc1 Member Posts: 168
    I had the same problem around 1200 miles but I don't have it anymore. If the "service 4wd" light is on, you can't shift into 4LO.
  • thebigkidthebigkid Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 grand cherokee and the heater and ac fan stopping working. I tested the blower with direct power and it works. If any one has had this problem and can help let me know.
  • mkrakemkrake Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the post! I've got the inline 6 4.0 for the 07 Jeep Cherokee Sport. I got quoted 275 for the head gasket and 1400 for a new block. this doesn't include labor... is there anyone you know of with a good used jeep engine? The jeep is in western North Carolina at this moment. Thanks!
  • ancjeepancjeep Member Posts: 6
    THE PART IS $47.95 +/- (I WORK AT A JEEP DEALERSHIP). THE
    PART IS LOCATED NEXT TO THE OIL FILTER. ITS NOT HARD TO
    REPLACE. ;)
  • ancjeepancjeep Member Posts: 6
    IS THERE POWER GOING INTO AND OUT OF THE BLOWER MOTOR RESISTOR ? AND IS THIS A LAREDO OR LIMITED MODEL BECAUSE THEY DO USE DIFFRENT RESISTORS.
  • alan93alan93 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee and the fuse for the auxilary power outlet (always on) is blown but I can't find it to replace it.

    The owners manual on page 202 shows a passenger side kick panel for these fuses but it doesn't exist on my jeep. I found the power distribution under the hood but the manual doesn't specify anything for this power outlet fuse. ???

    Anybody know where its at?

    :confuse:

    Or is there an accurate fuse map for this? Because my owners manual sure isn't.


    Thanks
  • alan93alan93 Member Posts: 5
    I had this same problem (1998 JGC) a few months ago and fortunately my solution was cheap but it could have been even cheaper than it was. It happened mainly when it was cold after just starting.

    I took it in to dealer thinking it was something complicated but turned out to be just a battery near the end of its life.
    It wasn't holding vital engine settings in memory every time car was shut off. So I took it to the dealer who , of course, charged me exhorbitantly for putting a new battery in (said they had to adjust all the settings blah blah, yea right) and tried to sell tons more service etc...

    so ,,,,new battery might be a solution to this.
  • dpglaredodpglaredo Member Posts: 1
    Looking for information and tips for replacing the OEM radio in my new Jeep with a 3rd party aftermarket radio. How to remove the existing radio. Are the wiring harnesses (RF, Power, Audio) standard? Are the cables conductors labeled? Any assistance/information will be greatly appreciated :)
  • kev6kev6 Member Posts: 1
    1999 JGC, pulled in the driveway, shut it off, wont restart. no power to the dash, no power to the fuel pump, no power to the coil packs. it will crank over, cant communicate with the computer to read any codes.no blown fuses , relays and all fuses and links in the power distribution center is good. any ideas ???
  • birtbirt Member Posts: 3
    My 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 5.2L 318 it cranks but will not start, replaced plugs, wires, cap, roter, Cam position sensor (pick up coil), coil, and computer (pcm). (still no spark)I checked the timming by pulling the cover and it is good, can any one help before I have to take it to the dealer.
  • offroad1offroad1 Member Posts: 3
    hey i have a jeep cherokee and the marker lights have been on for about a week now. it has happened before and the solution was that there was a pinched wire behind the dash so if you take off the dash and jiggle some of the wires around they might shut off.
  • offroad1offroad1 Member Posts: 3
    hey i have a cherokee 89 and the marker lights and dash lights wont shut off it has happened before and i jiggled some wires and they shut off bu i tried that again and it isnt working if anyone has any advice please respond thanks
  • paigietpaigiet Member Posts: 1
    i bought my jeep in july 05 brand-new and it has 10,700 miles on it. i started noticing that it shuddered terrible while i was in drive but sitting still, as at a red light or something... i took it in (its there now) and they told me its the rotors. thats fine, if they see that the rotors were warped (which i never felt any brake problems at all--smooth sailing) then they should be dealt with. but am i nuts for thinking that its something more than the rotors? i mean, the car shouldnt shudder while stopped, right?
  • tst58tst58 Member Posts: 5
    I have read the advice about rotors from Auto Zone. The current set that I have on are factory rotors with 8,600 miles on them and they are shot. I am considering after market caliper assemblies since I already have the TSB upgrade calipers. My dealer is wonderful and will do anything they can to solve the problem but have not been able to solve it yet. I will be getting this done next week and will let all of you know if I have any success. Pray for me!
  • bretrussellbretrussell Member Posts: 4
    I have the exact same truck, 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7L V8 with Quadradrive. I put a 2" lift kit on. It consists of spacers that go on top of the coil springs. Well I am having the same problem with a "shimmy" at 50 mph since I put on this kit. Although my "shimmy" is more like a violent, hard rattling, shaking that feels like all four tires are going to fall off. I'm currently doing all I can to get to the bottom of this and when I do, I promise that I will let you know right away!
  • offroad1offroad1 Member Posts: 3
    i ment the 89 cherokee was a 93
  • chumpchump Member Posts: 6
    my 94 grande cherokee ltd. info centre says rear lamp failure. I changed a couple of bulbs now they all work fine but the rear lamp failure light will not go out. The owners manual says cycle ignition which i think means turn ignition on a off three times. I disconnected reconnected the battery and still the light stays on. Has anyone had this problem or any suggestions.Thanx for any suggestion.
  • ray29ray29 Member Posts: 3
    Have them check the tourque converter in the tranny.
    I had the same problem.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    Check the steering damper. It looks like a shock absorber mounted under the front end. There were some Jeeps (search for death wobble) that would shake violently when this would wear out... Just did and found this interesting note on the death wobble http://activehowto.com/how-to/2/7/243.htm and some more that say the problem is not the damper/stablizer but that may help cover up the cause of DW. Some think the lift changes some geometry in the suspension components. Good luck and be real careful.
  • bretrussellbretrussell Member Posts: 4
    Thank's alot for your reply! I took the lift kit off today and I thought that it was gone, but when I went over some rough road at 50 mph it felt like it wanted to start up again, although it never did. I think that because of your advice I'm going to have my tires balanced, but I also agree that something about the angle of the front driveshaft(Chrysler calls it a propeller shaft) has something to do with it, or else taking the lift kit off wouldn't have done anything. I also read read up on the front propeller shaft and it turns out that only JGC with the 4.7L engine have a different shaft. It seems like there is no one answer to this problem. Thanks for the link, you've been a great help.
  • usedcarshackusedcarshack Member Posts: 1
    Unfortunately we know your problem and we have discovered that its in the alarm system which can not be removed from this vehicle or so we have been told by jeep.
  • nikki_sepnikki_sep Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, with 155,000 miles. About two weeks ago, as I was driving down the road, it just cut off (as though I had turned it off) then immediately cut itself back on. A few days later, it cut off while I was sitting in a parking lot, and I had to crank it back up. Now, it has continued to do this about every 3-4 days. Sometimes it happens immediatley when I start the car (just dies), and at times it will do it while I'm driving (in which case, I put on my flashers, put it in park, then it cranks right back up). Upon doing some research on the Internet, I've found out about these "codes". (the On-Off-On-Off-On thing) Nothing happened with my check engine light but on my digital odometer, it read P0320 which I looked up online and said something about a crankshaft position sensor? I don't know if I'm doing this correctly or what, but is this typical behavior of a car with one of these sensors going bad? Is it costly to fix? Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks!
  • crdnotfancrdnotfan Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem on my 2000 GC and found it to be condenstion collecting on the AC ducts under the dash and then dripping into the carpet. They tried to insulate the ducts from interior air but never were able to completely fix the problem.
  • glenmglenm Member Posts: 1
    I've purchased a 1998 Grand Cherokee from a co worker with 112,000 miles/ $4000.00, for my kid to drive. Excellent condition/dealer maintained. Only problem is it seems to rock or sway when you hit bumps (surface streets more than the freeway). I looked at the death wobble treads (had the same problem with a 88' suburban) and its not feeding back thru the steering, more body rolling/rocking. I feel that new shocks should fix it? Additionaly what brands do you guys recommend for mainly street driving.
    Thanks
    Glen
  • mikki2mikki2 Member Posts: 1
    when i apply my brakes coming to a stop while turning (like pulling into my parking spot) the jeep shudders. I cant tell if its my brakes or what. it seems to be getting worse.
    mikki
  • Check your tire pressure on the spare tire. I have a 2005 Liberty Renegade Rocky Mountain Edition. I had the tire pressure light coming on and off intermittently for a few weeks. I kept checking the four tire pressures to ensure they were right...I never thought to check the spare tire under it's cover on the back. Sure enough, I checked that and it was much different pressure than the other four which was enough to set off the light on the dash. Check your spare tire pressure and be sure it's similar to the other four tires.
  • icklebossickleboss Member Posts: 2
    :blush: hi, my jeep is hot - not in a cool sense neither - I would value any info, my jeep is loosing water from the cooling system. Wish to do the repair myself. Appears to be loosing alot of fluid ie 1/2hr journey, vehicle overheats through loss of water = Not too sure where to start, it's not coming from any hoses (have checked) think it may be through the exhaust.
    Have been told to remove thermo, and use sealing fluid, but have no tech data - any help would be appreciated.
    Pic's or manula related info, or web address's :cry:
  • icklebossickleboss Member Posts: 2
    My Jeep is 4Litre high output auto LTD
  • insign25insign25 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee, with 43000 miles. I had the check engine light on in the last three months. It was in three diferent dealers about 6 times. It has the seem computer code (P0455), in reference to a leak in the emission system. They replace the leak detection pump, the purge control solenoid, the oxygen sensors, and the canister. After they reset the computer, the light come on again after three or four days. It's running good, except when is real cold in the morning (below 30 degrees), start but stalls, about 4 o five times. Any suggestion.........
  • lagulagu Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited V8 4WD.The car has 76,000 miles and drives ok. The only problem I have is when I make a close turn or U turn the car starts shaking, at almost the point that the engine almost turns off by itself. Looks like the rear wheel start slipping or something. It's very weird. Does anyone else has the same problem? Any one has any suggestions on what that might be?
    Expensive to fix? I appreciate all your input...Thanks
  • mistysqmistysq Member Posts: 1
    Hi i have a jeep laredo 2002 and the window all of the suden it drop and i cannot get it on track. How can i fix this thank you Misty
  • cburns1cburns1 Member Posts: 1
    did you ever get your jeep working right, i have same problem need to find out what is wrong
  • gbognergbogner Member Posts: 6
    Not sure if that is what it is called, but the vehicle that I’m working is a 93 Grand Cherokee. I have found that the u-joint for the right front wheel needs to be replaced; it is severely worn and starting make noises when the brakes are applied. The Chilton manual that I have does not show a breakdown for R&R of this unit.
    I was wondering if anyone has a good breakdown for this application that they could post or email me so I can order the parts I need and get this repaired.

    Thanks
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    What year and model Jeep do you have? Which engine? If you're losing water from the cooling system and you don't see it leaking underneath, you may have a serious problem. You need to check your oil and see what it looks like. If it was recently changed it should be a golden brown. If not it should be dark brown. Anything else, such as white and milky, kind of like a milkshake, will more than likely mean that water is getting into your oil, where it shouldn't be! The cause would be either a blown head gasket or a cracked head (or both). If your oil looks like this, stop driving it and have it towed to a shop. While replacing the head gasket and/or head will cost you quite a bit, it's still cheaper than replacing the engine! Check it out and let us know what you find! -dixiecrawler
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    I believe you're right, new shocks should solve your problem. As far as shocks for mainly street driving, Monroe makes some pretty well riding shocks that are mid-priced, somewhere around $35 - $45 each. Bilstein makes great shocks, and their price shows it as well. -dixiecrawler
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    Look on Ebay. I've been goofing off on there before and found engines free for the taking if you'll just go pick them up and get them out of their way! Call some salvage yards to see if they have any wrecked that are the same year and model of yours. If they do, make sure that they weren't hit hard in the front, because there could be unseen engine damage. $1400 for a block is ridiculous! Let us know if you're able to find anything. -dixiecrawler
  • bretrussellbretrussell Member Posts: 4
    Capacitors in the trucks computers hold a charge, therefore holding memory of a fault like the rear lamp failure. I used to install car stereo's and alarm starters, etc. The trick I found to work best is to disconnect the positive side of the battery and use some jumper cables to connect the positive power wire thats been disconnected to the ground cable. What that does is completes the electrical systems circuit without the battery which drains the capacitors. So basically what I'm saying is connect the battery cables without the battery. Also leave it that way as long as possible so every capacitor can completely drain. If that doesn't work you have bigger problems. Hope that works for you, it has worked for me with customers cars.
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