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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • quadringquadring Member Posts: 20
    As far as your alarm problem, the easiest thing you can do is get a new remote and program it...they are not cheap...check ebay. You need to replace the DISARM SWITCHES...there is one in each front door. They are attached to the lock cylinders inside the front doors. When you put the key in the door and turn it, the disarm switch tells the computer to disarm the alarm. It is common for these switches to fail or only work intermittently.
  • quadringquadring Member Posts: 20
    Also...try reconnecting the battery with the key in the 'on' position...that might allow you to get the engine started.
  • quadringquadring Member Posts: 20
    Be advised that all PCMs (engine computers) are under warranty (federal regulations) for 8 years or 80,000 miles.
    See your dealer if you are less than 8yr/80k
  • quadringquadring Member Posts: 20
    I think you need to replace the pump again---this time get one from the dealer. There is only one pump for your vehicle and they are readily available.
  • quadringquadring Member Posts: 20
    1999-2004 Grands have a problem with the factory battery cracking at the negative post, which causes acid to leak out and the terminals to corrode. The corrosion causes the bolt/nut in the cable end to sieze up, and when you get the battery replaced, the cable end cannot be loosened or tightened properly. So many starting problems are caused by loose and corroded cable ends. If you have 2 pair of Vise-grip pliers, you can remove the corroded bolt/nut and thoroughly clean the cable ends with baking soda or battery cleaner. Use and old toothbrush or wire brush. Let the cable ends soak in a baking soda/water solution overnight if possible. Get new bolts and nuts from a hardware store and install so you can properly tighten the battery connections. THIS IS SO IMPORTANT...the battery is the heart of your electrical system. I see vehicles towed in all the time, the only problem being poor connections at the battery.
  • quadringquadring Member Posts: 20
    Assuming your battery connections are clean and tight, it is probably the starter, especially if you have the 4.7L engine. I have seen it many times.
  • quadringquadring Member Posts: 20
    replace the vacuum check valve---it is in the vacuum line that goes from the intake manifold to the firewall where the vac line goes thru the firewall to the a/c system
  • quadringquadring Member Posts: 20
    It is probably sun damage, especially if they feel rough to the touch. They can be polished, but it usually doesn't last long. Replace them, and your front end will look like new.
  • uhcprhc1uhcprhc1 Member Posts: 2
    Where about is the a/c drain on the frame located?
  • xscoutxscout Member Posts: 141
    Just do a search under A/C drain and you will get a whole bunch of messages on this problem. The drain exits the passenger compartment into the inside of the frame rail on the passenger side just forward of the firewall. It is almost impossible to see and is impossible to reach or clean from outside the vehicle without drilling a larger access hole in the frame. It is MUCH easier to access from inside the vehicle under the dash on the passenger side just above the footwell. Buy yourself a SMALL rubber plug and then drill a hole in the center of the round plastic drain area you can see inside the car. You will have good access to clean the drain and will be able to do it again later easily if need be. Do the search. As I recall someone posted a pretty good illustration of what you need to do.
  • ptech2005ptech2005 Member Posts: 3
    I own a 1998 JGC Laredo and I love it but I need some help clarifying some things. First off, I have put 3 manifolds into this SUV and wonder if anyone else has had this same luck with manifolds with the 98 JGC Laredo.
    One of my concerns. My carpet on the passenger side is always soaked no matter how many times I dry it out and vac the water up. I see the post above about fixing the ac problem BUT when I am parked on a hill or an angle, The water drains fine. IS there something else I might be missing?
    Next thing i am curious about and wonder if anyone has ever experienced this. I havent had mechanical problems with ym jeep. Little things here and there but nothing major untill today. I got gas at a Wesco gas station ($10) and a lotto scratchy. It was a winner so I decided to stop at the next gas station to cash it in. (1 mile down the road). I shut it off, went inside , came back out and started it to leave. It started, chugged and stalled. From there on it would crank and crank and crank But wouldnt fire or start at all. I am lost as to what it could be and dont want to spend lots of $$$$ while they (mechanics) seem to ponder on an outcome. If someone can help me with ANY of these issues I would be greatly appreciative. Thank you :shades:
  • pdebruynpdebruyn Member Posts: 1
    I have an 04 jgc-ltd with cli-xtl sys and a somewhat different prob.
    It has started acting up. When the outside temp is 65, and the cli-xtl knobs are set to 75, the a/c light is on and it is blowing cold air. If I bump the knobs up to 80, then it pumps heat.
    And, just the reverse - outside temp 85, knobs set to 72, sys blows heat. Turn knobs to 65 and it blows cold.
    No funny noises, just unpredictable output.
    Any ideas??
    Paul
  • blanksterblankster Member Posts: 29
    Go to WJJEEPS.COM to learn how to run a diognostic on the auto climate control.
  • problemc20problemc20 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 97 JGCL, and my check engine light just came on. It has never been on before after 8 months of owning the vehical. I did the ignition thing when you turn it off and on, and it gave me a reading of 12,37,55. I did some reasearch and the I think the #37 is the problem. It is the Torque Converter Clutch, No RPM Drop At Lockup, which means Relationship between engine speed and vehicle speed indicates no torque converter clutch engagement, and it also had another explanation for the code which was, Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuits; or Park/Neutral Switch Failure, which means, Incorrect input state detected for the Park/Neutral switch. I dont really know hat all this means, but I would really like to know how I could get this thing fixed. Could anybody please help me!?
  • 2000jgc2000jgc Member Posts: 2
    HI,
    I have a 2k JGC with over 161k miles and it actually has been pretty much a dream vehicle- besides the typical window, brakes,rear lights issues- but....today driving home in a foggy and wet environment my dash indicators (ABS, Brakes) and radio.cd player started flashing weirdly (odometer, too) and when I took it in they said it could be a myriad of things to include the PCM (there is some belt that is tore up) or the alternator and the battery has one bad cell (all due to this PCM issue). Has anyone else experienced this or is it BS? Please let me know. Also- have there been recall issues concerning this? Thank you, Liz
  • jdm74jdm74 Member Posts: 1
    When turning sharp, its a all stop moving, by accelerating the jeep moves but it clunks and pops and bangs. When cold its ok, after 15 to 20 miles then turning into a parking space.
    I've replaced the differential fluid in both rear ends, both front axle shafts, front drive shaft, rear drive shaft u-joints, transfer case fluid.
    ANY IDEAS
  • wperkinswperkins Member Posts: 1
    Similar problem with my 93 GC. Did the "bad ground at the frame rail for fuel pump" suggestion fix your problem? If so where is this "frame rail" located - by the fuel tank?? Thanks for your reply.
  • whattodo2whattodo2 Member Posts: 18
    Sounds like it may be the Viscous Coupler in the Transfer case - a common problem, expensive to fix, may only be an irritant if left alone. See other threads in this section about this.
  • kellikeetonkellikeeton Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone know how to install a crankshaft position sensor in a 1997 Grang Cherokee?? Thanks
  • kellikeetonkellikeeton Member Posts: 2
    I need to replace mine, does anyone know how to do it? Please help, I bought the part and the Chilton isn't very thorough on replacing it! I just can't get my hand behind the engine, do I need to do it from below? Thanks
  • ponygirl1ponygirl1 Member Posts: 7
    I found the problem with my jeep. After replacing the battery terminals, cadillac convertor, pcv valve....It all came down to being the fuel pump. Yeah, my jeep is a smooth riding girl! Went and bought a manual to do it myself, after purchasing this it broke everything down and helped me find the problem. For the fuel pump it cost me 234.00 at O'Riellys and I fixed it myself. So if you had problems with your jeep sputtering, stalling or sometimes not wanting to start check your fuel pump cause thats what fixed mine after trying all the other things, I could have saved a lot of money in the long run but it was worth it. She purrs like a kitten and is ready to get up and go.
  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    we just got a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 6 banger, and has only 104,000 mile on it. when acelerating and the rpm's reach about 3000, a weird whine occurs and gets stronger the faster the engine races, and gets weaker as the rpm's drop,. under normal acceleration is doesnt do it, because the rpm's dont reach 3000 normally, so it does it when i really romp on it. its a very cool noise, it sounds like a turbo almost, but since it belongd to a 90 year old man i doubt thats it lol. im just wondering if theres something working itself loose or if they all do that. any thoughts would be great
  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    we also have a 1994 grand cherokee with the 5.2 v8 automatic. in the mornings, when its shifted into reverse, it takes about 3-4 seconds to finally click into gear and then does it when shifted into drive. but after that fisrt 2 times, it shifts perfectly. ive checked the fluid and its full. is the transmission beginning to slip?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    alternator bearing?
  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    what's that
    and would that make a sound such as this?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It's the bearing that keeps the pulley spinning on the front of the alternator (the pulley that the belt spins around). It's just a little ring of brass or bronze that presses onto the alternator armature.
  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    hmmmm by the sounds of it, i would think that it would be making the noise at any rpm, not only at EXACTLY 3000, but i could and probably am wrong.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    One test you could do is to open the hood and have someone bring the engine up to 3,000 rpm in neutral. If there is no noise, then you know it isn't engine related but possibly transmission related (transmission pump noise).
  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    ahhhhh ill have to do that its a very god idea. thanks much
  • laddealaddea Member Posts: 13
    I had this problem last year on my 2000 JGCL 4x4 4.7L V8

    In my experience and according to my local dealer when all the gauges start acting up it's related to a charge issue one way or the other.. I have seen two different things happen with my Jeep. 1. All the needle gauges slowly went all the way right then back down to the left when I went to turn the key = Effect bad battery...
    2. when all my gauges started going bizerk (seen this on two occasions) 1st time the effect was bad alternator, 2nd time it was a loose battery connection (tight enough to start every time, but not tight enough for the gauges and computer to keep from wigging out.. You wouldn't believe how crazy it started acting before I figured it out.

    Suggestion: Go to your local Oriely's or Auto zone and have them test your alternator ( a free service ) and in the mean time make sure your battery terminals are tight.

    PS.. It could also be a loose ground wire somewhere else on the vehicle, I believe the JGC 99 and later grounds in three different places.

    Afterthought: I think it's amazing how often a dealer service center or car care center recommends that it may be the PCM, I guess there's always a chance it could be, but three out of the four times that I've heard that (since having my Jeep) it never has been.. The fourth is pending with a different problem I'm having now. :cry: These Jeeps are comfortable and fun to drive but they sure can be a headache.

    Good luck, I hope this helps you too.
  • laddealaddea Member Posts: 13
    My book doesn't specify how to gain access either, but when I replaced mine in a 2000 JGCL I had to do it from underneath.

    Locating the sensor is the hardest part, with getting to it being a close second.

    It looks like yours would be best accessed from underneath the vehicle on the driver's side, it should be located a little over half way up the side of your transmission bellhousing you're basically going to look where the tranny bellhousing meets the engine block.

    You may already have the rest but just in case I'll give you what I've got here...

    (six cylinder models)
    1. Disconnect the crankshaft sensor wiring harness connector. (This can be tricky but be patient with it as you don't want to break it.. There is a clip you press to release then pull and wiggle a bit)

    2. Remove the sensor mounting bolt(s) and remove the sensor (note the position of the sensor before removing, it will simplify the installation of your new one.) On models with automatic transmission, the sensor is retained by a single bolt and the sensor bolt hole is slotted. (4.0L 6 Cylinder models have two mounting bolts)If installing the original sensor, obtain an original-type spacer from a dealership parts department and apply it to the tip of the sensor to properly set the sensor depth. A new sensor should be equipped with the paper spacer in place (check that it is, because damage to the sensor will occur at startup if the sensor-to-driveplate clearance is not correct.)
    3. To install the sensor (equipped with paper spacer) lightly press the spacer against the driveplate and tighten the bolt to 60 in-lbs.
    4. Connect the crankshaft sensor wiring harness connector.

    And thats it I hope this helps, it's not the same without pictures *shrugs* but hopefully will at least get you started. I think it should get the job done.
  • markhoot1markhoot1 Member Posts: 10
    I have a 1996 JGC with Select-trac 4-wheel drive. When the case is in the full-time position, it should allow the front and back wheels to turn freely, without the bucking and binding on dry or wet ground like the part-time position. It usually works well, but sometimes, it seems to act like it's in part-time instead or it gets stuck in part-time when you go back to the 2-wheel drive position. Is there an adjustment that needs to be made or a procedure other than the lever position I'm not doing?

    Thank you in advance!

    Mark
  • laddealaddea Member Posts: 13
    PCV - Below is an excerpt I found on a free website
    It sounds like your problem only they explained it so well I didn't want to change anything so I pasted it.
    I underlined the part that caught my attention in relation to your problem.
    ---------------------------------------------
    What's so positive about Positive Crankcase Ventilation?

    It is called positive since there is a positive force that removes the combustion vapors from the crankcase. That force is vacuum - just like the vacuum that sucks the dirt out of your rugs and furniture only this vacuum is derived from the engine, not from a Hoover. Vacuum derived from the engine is a rather sensitive resource, that is you don't want to steal any vacuum from the intake manifold when the engine is idling. However, when the engine is running at highway speed the engine can afford to allow a "vacuum leak" to occur via the PCV Valve. It is a metered flow of air, controlled by a needle valve inside the PCV Valve. When the engine is at idle and vacuum is high the force of the vacuum overcomes the force of a spring inside the PCV Valve and it is closed down to allow a flow of about three cubic feet per minute. When the throttle is opened and the intake manifold vacuum is reduced (closer to atmospheric) then the spring in the PCV Valve forces the valve to open allowing up to six cubic feet per minute of flow to occur.

    So, what goes wrong? First, the spring can become weak or break and the valve will not open at all. This results in no removal of engine vapors and a build up of pressure in the crankcase. The air will actually flow backwards into the air cleaner. One symptom of this is oil in the air filter housing at the entrance of the PCV tube. This can also occur if the Blow-By is too high. Second, the valve can get gummy and stick in the open position allowing too much flow at idle conditions. This results in a rough idle or a stalling condition. In either case, just whip out the Visa card and spring for a new one! They only a few bucks.

    A quick check to see if it is faulty is to shake it rather violently and see if the ball inside rattles - if it does then it is probably OK. Then with the engine running, put your finger on the end of the valve. You should feel a strong vacuum. If you don't then the valve is clogged and/or the tube is leaking. Fix or replace as necessary.
    --------------------------------------------

    These are easy to replace, 99% of the time no tools needed.
    And for the full article of the above visit http://www.misterfixit.com/pcvvalve.htm

    Good Luck
  • laddealaddea Member Posts: 13
    2000 JGC Laredo 4x4 4.7L V8 Automatic
    87,000mi

    Intermittent problem may be fine a few days then run terrible a few days. No apparent connections to when it runs good or bad... i.e. Every time I fill up with gas, turn the a/c on, reach 40mph, ect...

    Codes have been reset and recently triggered the following:

    P0121 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Range/Performance Problem
    P0201 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 1
    P0202 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 2
    P0204 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 4
    P0206 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 6
    P0207 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 7
    P0208 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 8
    P0463 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit High Input

    I have already checked vacuum hoses, replaced camshaft, and crankshaft position sensors, replaced applicable relays in the power distribution center, checked all my grounds and battery terminals, consequently my battery and alternator both are less than a year old (I had orielys retest them anyway, and they are fine)

    VEHICLE SYMPTOMS: When it acts up it jerks and cuts out really bad, engine light comes on. On bad days it dies at while coasting and at stops.
    When it's doing good it does really good like there's never been a problem with it.

    I need help understanding what the first code is exactly (is it telling me the problem is with the throttle position sensor? or with an attached component? or is it just a misreading because of something else? And suggestions on what to do.

    Obviously it's hard to believe that 6 of my 8 injectors would malfunction at the same time as a result of actual bad injectors. I believe these malfunctions are an effect of a different cause, I just don't know what.

    I took the vehicle to a car service center to double check my personal findings and double check that the grounds, relays, and what not are all in fact good (and they were)

    The only help any service center, or dealership can suggest is to replace the PCM (at the low low price of nearly $1000.00) *sarcasm*

    MY THEROY: The fuel level sensor code indicates a problem with the fuel sending unit which is of course attached to the fuel pump, this is supported by the fact that when I top off the tank with gas the gauge inside the vehicle goes to empty until I hit about 3/4 then it seems to function properly. I know that the fuel pump has not bee replaced since the vehicle was manufactured.

    I plan to replace the fuel pump, sending unit, and filter followed by a pressure test to ensure that the pump hasn't just been working intermittently causing a lack of pressure build up.
    This of course in turn would effect the amount of fuel being ignited by the spark plugs which in turn could effect the voltage spikes of multiple injectors. (the service center told me that the injector malfunction codes are set when an injector fails to produce a high enough voltage spike which is monitored by the PCM which will try to compensate in whatever way it thinks best and of course set the code.)

    Please comment on your added suggestions, or if you have any additional knowledge, or if you see fault in my theory.
    You won't hurt my feelings; I'm willing to try anything that makes any since at all. (Short of replacing the PCM, until I've undergone all other possibilities.)

    Thanks in advance for your assistance
  • ryeager42ryeager42 Member Posts: 3
    My left rear brake light works when the car is in park but as soon as I shift into gear it stops working. Also when the running lights are on and the car is in gear and I apply the brakes all lights on the rear left fixture go out. I've tried replacing the socket that the light bulb goes into but that did not work. Any ideas?
  • cherokee1ohcherokee1oh Member Posts: 2
    My Dad has a 94 Grand Cherokee Ltd. 318CI or 5.2L. He bought it brand new, has 51,000 miles. He has drove Jeeps since 1946, owned since 1948. I get a GM discount of $8,000. to $12,000. off sticker, he still drives & owns only JEEPS!! Today he went to the store, turned the ignition key off, and the blower motor kept running like on slow speed. He took the key out, moved the climate switches, still keeps running on slow speed. He left it run, went and got his caulk and came home. Again, when he took the key out the blower motor keeps running. He removed the neg. battery cable and killed it till I got home. I checked and it did the same for me but, in the climate control on the right side where the Temp (inside) and * for A/C on, and fresh air or recirculate is. A "Er" pop's on for about 3 seconds, and goes out. Remember, in 1999 Jeep "Recalled" GC's to replace the A/C's & Heaters. We should not have any "Error" in the climate control, but what did they put in? A 94,95,96,97,98,or 99??? We don't know, I called our Dealer, my cousin work's there, not repairing, RAT'S, but he did ask his buddy's and there at a blank??? Anybody else have this happen, or know what to do? :confuse: This is my first posting here, so far I like! I belong to a couple of others for my stuff, your post's here seem quite nice & helpfull. But I have seen a couple of things that have got to me. A lot of American bashing, like it's broke you should have bought Foreign!! That don't go on the other forum's, there kicked off. This message is for Jeeps & Jeep people!!! And beings winter will be here in Ohio this coming weekend, when I pull a Foreign 4x4 out of the ditch or snowbank, I charge them DOUBLE, helps out on the fuel for the 318's & 360's Jeep People!! Have Fun In The Snow & Sand & Mud Guy's & Gal's!!! :shades:
  • cherokee1ohcherokee1oh Member Posts: 2
    Check to see if they have a current "Recall" on Tail-Lights. Next find out if your bulbs is mounted into a "Circuit Board", I can't remember if the 01's are or not. You might stop at a Boneyard and look at one thats out, see if it has a Board! GM checked my 03 Trailblazer Tail-Lights, and they was O.K.!! But some people had trouble, a month later I had to take mine in for replacement Via a "Recall", and mine was O.K. :shades:
  • dcat3dcat3 Member Posts: 1
    My 1998 grand Cherokee is haveing the same issues. did you ever get an answer as to what the cause was.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Car companies went international years ago and GM/Ford sell a lot of cars around the world. Last I looked, some German company even purchased Chrysler. :blush:
  • tj327tj327 Member Posts: 3
    I had the exact same problem with my 01 GC a few months ago. After replacing the socket with no luck, took it to dealer. It was the circuit board.
  • tj327tj327 Member Posts: 3
    I have an 01 Grand Cherokee. After parking and exiting car, setting alarm/locks etc., the lights will flash on and off by themselves sporadically. Sometimes right on and off, sometimes staying on for 20 seconds or so. You can also hear the locks click (like they are unlocking and relocking). Took to dealer, they have had it for two days and now want me to come and get it becasue they can't find anything wrong. I'm not imagining this and I'm not the only one who has seen it happen. Has been going on about 3 weeks now. Anyone had anything similar? Any ideas?
  • ryeager42ryeager42 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the help. Can you tell me a little about the circuit board you replaced? Where is it located on the car and do you have the part # of the replacement board?
  • tj327tj327 Member Posts: 3
    Sure, just happen to have the receipt on me. Receipt indicates that they replaced the entire light assembly. It looks like there were two parts: #5101897AB "Lamp"; and #55156845AA "Gap Hider".

    Hope this works for you. I haven't had any problems with it since. I've been warned to watch for the other side going out in the future. Hope not but if it does at least it won't take 3 months to figure out this time.
  • laddealaddea Member Posts: 13
    Not yet.. I plan to work on it later today.

    Replace Today:
    (Italicized indicates an absolute must change for me)

    Fuel pump module (complete with sending unit)

    Throttle position sensor
    By monitoring the output voltage from this sensor, the PCM can determine fuel delivery based on throttle valve angle (driver demand). A broken or loose sensor can cause intermittent bursts of fuel from the injectors and an unstable idle because the PCM thinks the throttle is moving.

    Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
    Monitors the intake manifold pressure changes resulting from changes made in engine load and speed and converts the information into a voltage output. The PCM uses the sensor to control fuel delivery and ignition timing.

    Oxygen Sensor
    The PCM uses this sensor to control the engine air/fuel ratio. A bad sensor can effect fuel economy, and engine performance.

    After looking in my aftermarket repair manual specifically for JGC '93-'04 I determined that the specific code P0121 for Jeep is (TPS voltage does not agree with MAP, TPS signal does not correlate to MAP sensor) This being the case if you look at my descriptions of what the PCM uses each of those sensors for this may have just been reduced to a no brainer for me! (If it doesn't work then it's back to the drawing board) I'll let you know how it goes.
  • keithy02keithy02 Member Posts: 9
    ALL THESE PROBLEMS COMING UP TO ALL YOU FOLKS
    JUST BOUGHT 06 JGC WHEN THE WARRANTY RUNS OUT MIGHT SAY BYE BYE BUY A HONDA OR TOYOTA NISSAN
    SMILE KEITH
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    My Nissan hasn't been perfect and when something breaks on it, I post about it. Otherwise I don't have much to say about it. Relax and enjoy your new ride!

    btw, these Problems discussions are hard for newbies to follow so we're going to start closing this down and have more threads about the individual problems so you don't have to search through 3,000 posts. Maybe that won't cause buyer's remorse when new owners stumble in here too. :shades:
  • bob_grahambob_graham Member Posts: 63
    I posted this on the vibration thread also.

    I may be vibration free. As I mentioned I replaced the tires. Americas tire could not get them properly balanced.... they seem to struggle with the chrome clad option. After 3 attempts they got the Michelin Latitudes 255X60X17 balanced.
    Seemed like the vibration was much better. But then the Jeep started drifting left and right on the freeway. Had the alignment checked. it was off a little. Still drifted LEFT AND RIGHT.

    I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited with Michelin Cross Terrain 255X60X17 and they have been perfect. Went to Americas Tires and told the manager the story. Of course he wasn't buying and said drifting was normal on the freeway.

    He would not do a full exchange for the tires. I had to give them another $312. They installed them and off I went.

    Next the Jeep starts vibrating/shaking from 65 to 75 MPH. So the new tires were out of balance. Went to another America's Tire, told the story and they reluctantly balanced the tires again. I asked them to check them first, they did not. Guess what,the vibration is now 68 to 73 MPH after the re-balance.

    So I figure I'll give it one more try at Les Schwab. Tell the manager the story and he seems like he really wants to solve the problem, even though I did not buy the tires there. He say's let's do re-balance on the road force machine. $21 / tire to do this.

    This machine checks the quality of the rims and the tires. They also checked the balance on all 4 tires first - they were all out of balance. The rims and tires checked out good. Balanced the tires on the road force machine. They even double checked one tire by removing and re-installing on the machine. Handed me the keys and said go test drive and please call us to tell us if its fixed.

    So I take Jeep out on a country road - hit 70 MPH and its as smooth as silk.......

    The lessons I learned.

    1. America's Tire / Discount Tire seems to have gotten too big and no longer seems to want to provide the service they use to - I'm done with them - Too bad since I have 9 cars and trucks
    2. Chrome Clad wheels on 05 and 06 Jeep Grand Cherokee's require latest generation balancing equipment - I think older machines push out against the chrome covers
    3. Do not use inside wheel weights - use the traditional weights on the edge of the rims
    4. Goodyear tires may not be the problem -perhaps the tires get screwed up because the balancing is just slightly off
    5. Michelin Latitudes DO NOT BELONG ON THIS JEEP they are really for luxury and cross over types
    6. Michelin Cross Terrains work great
    7. Michelin and America's Tire/Discount Tire sucks - They did not want to listen, saw me as a trouble maker and did not want to make things right.
    8. I'm going to call Michelin direct and see if I can get somewhere directly with them. For all I know AT/DT never even called them.
    9. I'm not crazy, even though everyone tried to make me believe that I was.

    Now we'll see how long things go smooth. The only problem I have left is I hear a click sound on the left side at low speeds and the dealer does not seem to be able to find the cause. This started while on a long trip.

    So 2 months and $1300 worth of tires and balancing I think the issue is solved
  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    well, our 1994 cherokee has just made a big one. earlier tonight, me and my mom
    went to the store. it had a very hard problem starting when we were leavin the
    store. when the key is turned, i can hear a very very loud whine, and then after
    2 seconds, it cranked, only once. then we tried it again, and the same thing,
    except this time we let it do it some more, until about 15 seconds later it
    cranked with normal pace until it started. just out of curiousity, when
    we got home we did it again thinking it was a freak accident, and the exact same
    thing happened! now what in the world would cause something like that? perhaps
    the starter isnt catching or something? any ideas would be very helpful
  • laddealaddea Member Posts: 13
    Alright, dcat3

    I installed the new TPS Throttle Position Sensor yesterday.
    After the installation I took it to an actual service center where I knew the owner would hook me up by clearing the OBD codes. I tried a tire shop first and their equipment would not clear everything.

    I decided to take things one step at a time to save money, so I started with the cheapest fix in this case the TPS.

    So far so good but it's only been a day.
  • bog69bog69 Member Posts: 1
    How do I chang the headlight assembly on a 95 Jeep GC limited?
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