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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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  • chriski46chriski46 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I seem to be having some of the same problems with my 04 JGC. It started as my husband turned the engine off and i left my window down, he turned the ignition and it would not go back up. He then got in and shut the drivers side door and the passenger side window then went up. Then the door windows and locks would not work the next day. NONE OF THEM!!! Then the interior lights came on and would not go off. We pulled the door panel off but did not see any broken wires. The black boot from the door to the frame looks brand new. I dotn know what to do next. We cant drive it b/c the lights being on all the time will run down the battery and add another expense. So we have parked it and disconnected the battery. Does this sound familiar to anyone? Does anyone have a solution? I have tried to read through many posts and if I am repeating something I am so sorry! Thanks
  • cherokeeprncescherokeeprnces Member Posts: 8
    Not sure if you read my previous posts...but my 04 did the same thing, but continually had the loss of other electrical powered components. Its your wiring harness in the driver's door shorting out. There is a defect in the design for these CG's wiring harnesses and about 2 years ago Jeep redesigned it to prevent further probs. I will tell you that it can be expensive to repair and as of yet Jeep has not issued a recall and owners are having to pay for these repairs. Your electrical probs will continue to get worse as the shorts work their way thru the system. In mine I could hear clicking on the drivers side when I would be on the road and this continued until I had the repairs done. If you have any type of expertise in the ways of autos you can take the panel and shrink wrap off the drivers door and test the wiring for shorts, mine were so bad you could see the scorching.
    I also recommend that you keep all the receipts for your repairs and contact jeep HQ directly about them issuing a recall. If enough owners do this they will issue the recall (which they should have already done) and possibly begin reimbursing owners for the repairs. Good luck!!
    CherokeePrincess
    cherokeeprincessdreamer@hotmail.com
  • steelersfan1steelersfan1 Member Posts: 2
    Well the jeep is actually my roommates but he isn't so computer friendly so I have been helping him out. He hasn't had the electrical problems ever since he yanked the alarm system out. He has mentioned hearing a rattling in the driver side door so if he goes to start having the electrical problem again that is the next area he is going to check out. So far I have been forwarding all posts to him.
  • racingbanksracingbanks Member Posts: 1
    I have an 01 JGC and judging from the discussions, seat and window switches are a problem. We bought the car second hand and the driver heated seat didn't work. Now the passenger seat doesn't work. Switches run from 35.00-100.00 each plus shipping. Does anyone know if that is a good price? I hesitate to get one from the wrecking yard...undoubtly it will be one that already doesn't work. Does anyone know if the "newer" switch replacements work any better than the old ones?
    Cold seat in Prineville....
  • naatz1naatz1 Member Posts: 188
    Why do you think it's the seat heater switches & not the element?
    Do a search on "heated seats" in this forum and you will get two pages of hits, they had problems in the 99-03s.
    EG, see mine back around Dec 04 regarding my 01 JGC Laredo loaded w/leather heated seats: ...this is a 3rd time heated seat defect in

    Well it was "the magic" which was good as my extended warranty ran out soon after & we had zero problems of any significant nature in the past 3 1/2 years since. I sold the 01 to my son in November and bought a new 07 loaded Laredo; yes my wife wanted, you got it, HEATED LEATHER SEATS again.
    These new model seats warm up much faster and in 6k miles no problems on this 07, it really handles superb. I happened to drive my son's 01 this weekend and his sure are a softer suppler leather after 85k miles of breakin!
    And that old 01 knock on wood, is running very well.

    Good luck with your fix but be sure it's really the switch and not the heater element, which is not easy to get at.
  • naatz1naatz1 Member Posts: 188
    Why do you think it's the seat heater switches & not the element?
    Do a search on "heated seats" in this forum and you will get two pages of hits, they had problems in the 99-03s.
    EG, see mine back around Dec 04 regarding my 01 JGC Laredo loaded w/leather heated seats:...this is a 3rd time heated seat defect in < 4 years. He did say they put in a new element in the seat: a $200 part but labor intensive (doable by a skilled do-it yourself person). The alternative is the $1200 seat bottom replacement others have referred to earlier on this forum ... or a cold butt. This is always amazing as 2 heated seats and all the control wiring is a $250 option when new - go figure. I sure hope 3 times is the magic.

    Well it was "the magic" which was good as my extended warranty ran out soon after & we had zero problems of any significant nature in the past 3 1/2 years since. I sold the 01 to my son in November and bought a new 07 loaded Laredo; yes my wife wanted, you got it, HEATED LEATHER SEATS again.
    These new model seats warm up much faster and in 6k miles no problems on this 07, it really handles superb. I happened to drive my son's 01 this weekend and his drsyd sure are a softer suppler leather after 85k miles of breakin! And that old 01 knock on wood, is running very well.

    Good luck with your fix but be sure it's really the switch and not the heater element, which is not easy to get at.
  • rev4revrev4rev Member Posts: 11
    I have no spark at spark plugs but when I remove coil wire at dist. cap and put a plug in it it has great spark. Even open up gap on test plug a long ways and it still sparks from coil. Have replaced crank sensor, PCM, Plugs, Wires, Cap & Rotor to no avail. Timing is on anyone have an idea what to do next? Is it possible the rebuilt PCM is firing coil when rotor is inbetween contacts in cap?
  • mls0512mls0512 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 JGC that I bought used 2 years ago..it has 70,000 miles on it. Since July I have put over 5k into this car. Today while driving, my gas gauge went from 1/2 tank to E and the need gas light came on and I lost RPM'S..it seemed to correct itself and then I went to a gas station to get gas just in case, then after that it kept losing rpms and it stalled and chugged the whole way to work..this happened before and the mechanic said it was the fuel pump (that happened in November with the exception of the gas gauge)), we just got it back 3 weeks ago and that time it was stalling in reverse and sometimes drive.

    Can anyone help???
  • mammamamma Member Posts: 5
    was your )2 sensor recently (3 years) replaced? Mine did the exact same thing. I had a "universal" )2 sensor put in. It shorted out and fried my computer. Have them check that and clean all sensors.
    Good luck.
  • dsmansdsmans Member Posts: 10
    Hello there! I am wondering if anyone knows the cost or maintenance that will accompany a leak of gear oil coming what looks like from the seal of the rear gear box. Also, is there a "reserve" so it doesn't leak dry? I plan to get it fixed as soon as possible but would like to know what I may be up against first, thanks!
  • smokebeesmokebee Member Posts: 30
    book says to remove rear wheels, brakes and calipers.Drop driveline. Use tools # 6958(holder) C-452 ( Remover) and (Wrench) C-3281 to remove the rear yoke to access the seal. Remove seal with any tool that can pull it out. Use toolsC-3972-A (seal installer and handle C-4171 to install new seal. Use Installer W-162-D, Cup 8109 and Holder 6958 to reinstall the yoke.. The differential housing dips below the lower seal line so there will be oil in the rearend. It is vented so no pressure builds up. The rotation of the ring gear will whip oil upon the diff bearing. The bearing, however will not be submerged in oil as it would be without the leak. Get ready to spend a few bucks!!!!! S Swann-Odessa, tx ( I do not know why the wheels and brakes have to be removed as they are not in the way of seal replacement)
  • dsmansdsmans Member Posts: 10
    Thanks so much. I'm waiting for a quote now from Cottman Transmission. WOW! The manager made it sound like it would be a simple thing, but obviously not. I still don't have a call back yet and it's been almost 4 hours!
  • wick24wick24 Member Posts: 1
    just started overheating the other day, car only has 20,000 miles on it. we thought that the fan may of been the problem it doesn't run by its self but fan does work when it is hard wired too the battery. were thinking about checking the temp/sensors or relays but just wondering if anyone has had this problem and has the knowledge to fix it. :confuse:
  • proffessorproffessor Member Posts: 1
    Howdy , i was just wodering if anybloody has heard of any radiator hose dramas with the 2.7 litre CRD engine grand cherokee MY 2004? my machine occassionaly pongs of coolant and the hoses seem to be Breathing/seeping fluid
  • hokiecowhokiecow Member Posts: 1
    A couple of weeks ago the power auto entry/exit stopped working. Then tonight the lights in the dash started flickering on and off. Then the interior lights started coming on and staying on for a few seconds before going off. Shortly after this all the interior lights came on and stayed on for the remainder of my drive. We are going to take it in to have it looked at but I was wondering if anyone else had the same experience and what the cause was.

    Thanks!
  • arkitekarkitek Member Posts: 2
    Ive got a 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 156k miles. Just last week I went to close the drivers door and a bolt with a star head (not a phillips head) popped out of the door and what looks to me that the latching mechanism inside the door broke from the body of the door. Is this fixable/weldable? or will i need to get a new used door?

    Thank you!
  • arkitekarkitek Member Posts: 2
    I had a similar problem with my interior lights. What the cause for me was that the button switch when i close the door was not pushing the button in all the way. I was able to pull on the door and the lights went out and then when i let go, lights came on. My quick fix was to tape a small piece of cardboard to the door where the switch would hit and that did it.

    but for me, this is related to my problem that i posted today.
  • skimboarderskimboarder Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1992 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 L - 242 with 208k miles.

    Recently I have noticed that my jeep has been smoking a lot. When I look under it, all the smoke is coming from the catalytic converter. It looks like steam more or less, but has a slight smell to it. There is nothing leaking onto it, all the smoke/steam is coming from within it. All of my gauges are fine and nothing else seems to be wrong. I believe it has never been replaced. Anybody have any ideas on what could be wrong with it?

    Also, if it needs to be replaced. Could you tell me an approximate price range that I should look for when talking to shops?

    Thanks for all the help in advance.
  • dmenchendmenchen Member Posts: 4
    I was reading a post from another member about how his 04 Jeep Grand Cherokee has not power going to the front axle and only 1 wheel in the back is getting power. Wow! I have exactly the same problem with my 99 JGC with the Quadra Track II. According to everything I read the drive train should send power to whichever axle or wheel has traction, but in my case there is nothing going to the front and the rear is only going to where there is no traction. HELP!!!

    I am concerned that there has been no response since the original post of this issue back in 2003, I hope I have better luck getting an answer. :confuse:
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    how maney miles on the jeep?
    have you changed the oil in the transfer case?
    try it in 4low
  • dmenchendmenchen Member Posts: 4
    It has just over 100K on it.
    I had the oil changed in the transfer case about a year ago, but the recent snow storm here in Ohio was my first time needing 4WD.
    It made no difference if I put it in 4H or 4L.
    I am very confused as to why I don't at least get "posi-traction" from the rear wheels.
    I finally get to play in the snow and had no fun at all... :cry:

    Thanks for your help.
  • 5213252132 Member Posts: 62
    I heard another guy with the same problem. Turns out that the gerator pump went bad. But I still am confused about why it doesn't work in 4L? Maybe your transfer case chain is slipping? Are there any strange noises when in 4L in a low traction situation? Also, the engines vacume is suppose to lock the viscus coupling to engage 4 wheel drive when in 4L. Another possibility is that for some reason the fluid isn't getting into the viscus coupling, the leading cause of this problem is that the wrong fluid is put in the transfer case. I would start with changing the oil in the transfer case again, look in your owners manual to find the correct fluid. By the way, only quadra-drive has the posi-trac.
  • lam254lam254 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 jgc laredo. It has been stalling on/off for approx 6-8 mos. I have changed everything from sensors to coils and tune up. I still have the same problem. It can run fine for a period of time, then it it starts shutting off on me.
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    My 94 GC 5.2 V8 suddenly quit running bout a month back. It is rarely ever driven and sits for months on end. I was towing a small trailer for most of the day, ran great. Got home, loaded the trailer back up to make a dump run and went to pull out of my driveway and it just died. Been sitting ever since. The fuel pump is working, but it acts like its not getting fuel or spark, just turns over and over and over. There is no spark to the plugs, but the cap and rotor are fine. I put some gas directly in it, and still nothing.

    Very weird, not sure why its not firing.

    Please help, need to get it running soon.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    gotta use the oil from jeep in that transfer case if used wrong oil when changed will prob need new transfer
  • machmikemachmike Member Posts: 8
    I recently purchased a 2000 Grand Cherokee before I moved from Michigan. It has the 4.7L V8. While there are numoerous items to watch for on these vehicles, I noticed that my oil pan had substantial rust on it. If left unattended, it would have probably started to leak oil and eventually led to other more serious issues. If you are in a salty environment, do your self a favor and check the conditon of the pan and sand, prime with a rust encapsulator and paint it to save yourself potentially thousands of dollars worth the engine damage that could result. Do the same for the tranny pan as well.
  • machmikemachmike Member Posts: 8
    Agreed. Some of the transfer cases use atf+4. I have the full time four wheel drive and it uses the nv247, 249 oil only. Using ATF+4 is going to cause you problems with that transfer case.
  • 5213252132 Member Posts: 62
    Hey! That's basically what is said on post #3991. Oh well.
  • naatz1naatz1 Member Posts: 188
    I will answer my own question with what our dealer got from Jeep engineering: you must turn the radio OFF before turing off the ignition and then the radio stays in AUX mode when you start the car. But of course you have to turn the radio back on again as well.

    One of the crazier answers I have ever heard. The radio does not require that to stay in AM,FM or CD mode as you can switch off the car with the radio on and it goes back to the mode you left it in. Seems to me a true design bug! I don't think it's worth fighting, but one of my first (minor) disappointments with this new vehicle.
  • howie56howie56 Member Posts: 21
    Hello : I've posted a problem about a 1 1/2 yrs ago about my 2005 Jeep grand cherokee with a 5.7 HEMI that surges on the road no matter if I'm on flat roads or hills and the garage I take it to knows and admits that I have a problem , but Chrysler just says that this is a normal occurance . I'm wondering if any other owners of the same vehical have the same problem or not . I have around 27000 miles on it and it has been doing this since 3000 miles .

    Thanks for any help that I recieve

    Roger :lemon:
  • naatz1naatz1 Member Posts: 188
    I just had both front door window regulators (the power window mechanism & motor assembly inside the doors) replaced at 6k miles in warranty, and while a minor thing it is my first new vehicle defect (hmmm, our 300M went to 35k miles w/o a problem). The power window express up feature was intermittent which I have found handy to use at the mailbox, bank, toll booths and while no big deal to hold the finger on the control like old power windows required, there were a few times it jammed and it took a while to go up even manually forcing it.

    I found this data on http://www.wkjeeps.com/wk_tsb.htm#NEW
    Jeep owners with 05 and newer models can find a LOT of data on that site including how to do a lot of vehicle simple service and interior panel removals. Scan all the TSBs to see if there are any symptoms showing up you may have. Here is the window express up problem explained:

    OVERVIEW:
    This bulletin involves replacing both of the front window regulators and both front door modules, if the modules can not be reprogrammed to the proper level.
    MODELS:
    2006-2008 (WH) Grand Cherokee (International Markets)
    2006-2008 (WK) Grand Cherokee
    2006-2008 (XH) Commander (International Markets)
    2006-2008 (XK) Commander
    NOTE: This bulletin applies to WK/XK vehicles built before October 4 th, 2007
    (MDH1004XX) and WH/XH vehicles built before October 18th 2007 (MDH
    1018XX).
    SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
    The customer may experience a front door glass reversal, goes up and then comes back down after the express-up function is initiated. This condition is caused by a combination of a regulator motor issue and the sensitivity of the auto up software contained in the door module(s).
  • biddabingbiddabing Member Posts: 1
    I have a '99 jeep cherokee 4.0l. It do not always want to idle when you start it. It started doing it about 6 mths ago and is slowly getting worse. It is not always doing it when it's cold but also when it is warm. It drive and accelerate just fine. Can it be the egr valve? Someone told me it can be the tps censor but it no check engine light. :confuse:
  • 5213252132 Member Posts: 62
    The 4.0L and 2.5L engines don't have EGR valves. It could be anything from bad coolant temperature sensor to the TPS. But I'm pretty sure that it's some kind of a sensor.
  • smokebeesmokebee Member Posts: 30
    The six has a idle air pump. It is located on the back side of the air inlet body. You may access it by removing the air inlet top housing to expose the air inlet body. Look to the right side of the backside of the housing. Uncouple the wire harness and use a phillips screw driver to release the pump retainer screws. Pull it out and check for any buildup or deposits on the piston. Clean it and reinstall and crank the engine. If it idles you fixed it. If it does not a new valve costs about 50 bucks on the internet. OR----you can take a 1/4" stove bolt nut and place it below the near bottam end of the throttle valve lever( look at the bottam of the front side of the air inlet housing closest to you) Good luck
  • 5213252132 Member Posts: 62
    I just replaced the CCV system on my Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0L. And I have to tell you that it's not easy. First, you have to make sure you have got parts that replace the entire CCV system. The reason for this is that you have to break every thing you attempt to remove. Second, get a large flat head screw driver to pry out the CCV elbows. If you use a screw driver with interchangeable bits, MAKE SURE THAT THE BIT DOES NOT FALL IN TO THE ENGINE!!! Third, you have to take off the resonator to replace the rear hose. If you don't take it off, it will be harder to take off the end of the hose that connects to the intake manifold. This is a good opportunity to check the butterfly valve on the TB. Fourth, install the resonator. Make sure that the resonator is flush with the TB, don't forget to install the hose for the front CCV. Last, triple check everything - the hoses, elbows, resonator, TB. Start the engine and check for a whistling sound (don't be fooled with the whistle like sound of the alternator). If everything checks out, you are all done.
    I'm writing this because nobody else has. ;)
  • tireman3tireman3 Member Posts: 2
    Hi
    I have a 2001 jeep grand cherokee laredo. About once a month while driving the car seems to slip and the check engine light comes on. The car runs funny after that and the idle races up and down. The code is DTC PO320 . If i disconnect the battery and erase the code, the car runs fine after that, although it still idles a little funny. I really like this car and this drives me crazy. Can somebody help me?
    thanks
  • blanksterblankster Member Posts: 29
    On some of the '01s the crank position sensor has been known to fail - I think it was on the 4.7s. Look up the PO320 code. I did some looking it could also be transmission related...
  • tireman3tireman3 Member Posts: 2
    Thank You!!
  • machmikemachmike Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2000 Laredo in the shop right now for similiar issues. Your code is for the crankshaft sensor. My codes were 1732 and 1784. Which are the presure switch circuit. My Tranny would slip and the MIL would come on. I would reset it with my scanner and all was good. The problem kept getting worse until all i had was 1st, 2nd and reverse. The solenoids and clucthes in tranny are bad. Usually not that expensive, but I had torque converter issues as well. Go to actron.com and look at their scanners. You can link to sites for used ones or check autozone. I just moved to NC from Detroit and before I moved I bought an actron superscanner at Murray's that the employees used on customers cars. It is about $350 new. I paid $86. It has more than paid for itself. The superscanner not only gives you the code but tells you what it is. On top of that you can plug it in while you are drivving and it montors the functions of the vehicle. It also tells you if your car will pass inspection in states that require them. Good luck.
  • mworleymworley Member Posts: 41
    I currently own a 2001 limited 4.7. I have had no problems that you have stated. I am not a mechanic bu have owned and work on 4 Jeep's in 20 year's. My guess and have had this problem with my 87 commance ( bad power steering pump ) Dealer replaced, no noise. I have had problems with getting things fixed from Jeep dealer's in the past. My advise, go to another dealer. I have a Chrysler/ Dodge dealer that services Jeep. They have been excellent, my last Jeep dealership gave me the run around, didn't fix problems, and charged me for things that should have been covered under my warrenty.Good luck.
  • mworleymworley Member Posts: 41
    Sonds like a bad knock sensor, easily fixed at a good dealship.
  • mworleymworley Member Posts: 41
    I have owned 4 jeep's in 20 years. I will try and help. I have not had this shaking at stop. Does it feel like a shake in the steering wheel? could be warped front end rotor's associated with the brakes. I have loved my Jeep's, if I did not i would not be on #4.
  • mworleymworley Member Posts: 41
    Inspected the rear diff, it may have a bad gear. Have it checked by someone else.
  • mworleymworley Member Posts: 41
    How many miles are on this Jeep? Original factory liquid shocks are only good for 30,000 miles and should be replaced with gas shocks. I have monroe gas matic. They give a firmer ride but the handeling is much better. You will get a thump on a large bump, this is from the shock cushion.
  • mworleymworley Member Posts: 41
    I bought my 2001 limited with 48,000k on it in 2005. I know about these problems having owned 2 Jeeps previously. I have had no trouble with mine. It now have 73,000k and I pull a boat. I did change the front pads to Bosch ceramic since metallic pads wear out the rotors and it is easier/cheaper to change pads than rotors. Good luck>
  • mworleymworley Member Posts: 41
    Squeaking is not normal, I have done atleast 50 brake jobs with no squealing reported. Sounds like pad problem ( cracked, not worn to rotor properly ) Have it checked somewhere else. I have fixed this on friends cars usually after a repair place says nothing is wrong.
  • mworleymworley Member Posts: 41
    Chrysler has recntly settled a multi million dollar lawsuit for brake rotor complaints.
    Turning down the rotors only cause additional problems, if there warped they need replacement. Go with another manufacturer.
  • mworleymworley Member Posts: 41
    I tow a 16ft boat with my 2001 limited 4.7. Most of the time I do not know it is even back there. No sway problems. The new Jeeps offer sway control.
  • mworleymworley Member Posts: 41
    I could be wrong but I believe this has a metal chain. I had a 87 4.0 and a 90 4.0. Both had 200k on them when they were traded. No timing chain replacements.
  • mworleymworley Member Posts: 41
    Sounds like a bad driveline u-joint. Have the driveline checked.
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