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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

1848587899099

Comments

  • ebizsearchebizsearch Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the comeback. I will get under again and look. It must be on the right side manifold and where the crossover pipe to the left side is. Must be on the top side of pipe where it is hard to see. Thanks again.
    ebizsearch
  • frustrated93frustrated93 Member Posts: 1
    I picked up my 93 Grand Cherokee just over a month ago and it has been a nightmare. The computer works against everything I do. The Jeep was overheating, so I put in a new radiator, hoses, heater hoses and both engine coolant temperature sensors. I also put in a new cooler (160 degree) thermostat. My overheating issues have gone away and I was able to drive the thing for a few days. I drove it the other day and had no issues, but several hours later when I went to start it up it wouldn't and still wont. The engine codes are telling me that the engine is running too cool. Does anybody know how I can get around this issue? How do I get the computer to allow the Jeep to start? Atleast when it was getting too hot, I only had to wait until it cooled down for the computer to allow it to start. Now that it is running too cool I am lost as to what to do. I appreciate any assistance. Thanks!
  • mannymiami305mannymiami305 Member Posts: 2
    I have an 01 JGC with almost 100k on it. I have previously wrote that it was hit by a flood and I myself did a ATF change on it. Now only a couple hundred miles on it and the car dies when at a street light, has to have a little cranking in order to run the engine, and transmission doesn't seem to change gears on time. This list goes on and I don't know what else to think of doing to it. I Love my Jeep cause it has pushed its way from Miami to Houston without a problem and I honestly believe that it's like a climate change that has affected it. It's hard to believe but it seems like it and I laugh about it. I have made a list of the things that it has and well I have been told many different things that can fix the problem but no solution. I guess the only solution is to go to a mechanic and make him check it out but we all know that mechanics nowadays are hard to trust. I would like to know what should I do? Suggestions anyone?
  • smokebeesmokebee Member Posts: 30
    Hey, MM305---I, too, had a flood situation with 99 JGC--4.0 six engine. Water got up to just about CD level on the radio.(total underwater time about 2 hours) I drained the engine, tranny, rear end, gas tank, air manifold, fuel rail,cylinders and whatever---except I failed to disconnect the transmission cooler lines and blow the water/oil mix out. Got it to runnning okay---shifted okay--for awhile.Then got to where it would not shift properly, like yours. Finally took it to tranny shop. What little water remained in the cooler tubes got to the clutch plates and destroyed them. Replaced tranny/torque converter unit and it runs great.Cost was $1500 for the tranny with six month warranty(well past that now). It had 106,000 miles at time of flood and now has over 120,000.
    Good luck-----------Smokey Swann-Odessa, Tx
  • shopdog97shopdog97 Member Posts: 160
    This is not Earth-shattering, but can anyone tell my why the geniuses at Chrysler CHOSE NOT to put a transmission dipstick on our 07' Grand Cherokee? All it has is a plug where the dipstick should be that says "Dealer use only" on it. Now why is that? This is the 3.7 V-6 engine with the 5 speed automatic. So I am not allowed to check my own transmission fluid level? I asked my service advisor at the dealership and I got some stupid response that amounted to "well you really don't need to know that', Why don't I need or want to know that? Now the thing only has 10,000K on it right now, but I'm used to doing things myself, and I like to be informed MYSELF! I wonder if there is one available from Chrysler(I never checked on it) Now imagine if there was no engine oil dipstick either. They couldn't do away with that, could they?? And the one they do have there is the chintziest piece of metal I ever saw for a dipstick. Bring back the OLD DAYS, please!!!!!!!!!
  • smokebeesmokebee Member Posts: 30
    I know how U feel----but do U also know that some of todays vehicles have total sealed trannys (except for output shaft) and are considered to be throw away---in other words non repairable.

    One can easily see how dumb downed Mfgs and government(with regulations-- of nonsense) want us to become.

    It simply means that should U lose the rear seal or tranny cooler and lose fluid you are forced to have it serviced by the Mfg--Dealer.

    Have a good weekend
    Smokebee
  • ktotheroktothero Member Posts: 1
    I have a light on in between my speedometer and tachometer. It is red, and it looks like a man with an airbag or I was thinking maybe climate control....
    What does it mean?
  • shopdog97shopdog97 Member Posts: 160
    I hear what you're saying, smokebee, but just because there may(and I'm not sure that is the case here)a throw away transmission, I still can't fathom why there wouldn't be a dipstick to show the proper fluid level. There's the gooseneck coming up from the tranny, right where it should be next to the firewall. Now if the trans was sealed and you aren't supposed to worry about it until it's too late(never mind that you can't see it coming)why spend the $$$ to have a gooseneck there at all? The dealer MUST have a dipstick that they use when you bring the vehicle in for service, and at certain intervals they have to have something to check the level, that is only common sense(unless that isn't practiced anymore) I guess I'm just tryin' to make a mountain out of a molehill. Obviously it HAS to make sense to someone, but I don't build these vehicles!!!! Thanks for responding.
  • smokebeesmokebee Member Posts: 30
    You might take a look at year or two older vehicle(salvage yard or used one at car lot) with same engine and see if they are equipped with a tube in the same place and a dipstick present. Check with Jeep parts folks---see if they list the same tube for three or four years models. If tube is same and sticks are available for the other models---one should fit yours.
    Smokebee
  • dtibdtib Member Posts: 1
    I have had sporatic problems with my 2005 JGC Laredo not starting. It will run fine for a week or so, then after sitting for just a few hours it will not crank only click. I replaced the battery a month or so ago and it still happened. It will jump start but it takes several minutes. I've never seen a car take that long to jump start. I've had it to the dealer 2 times to troubleshoot. They tell me all of the electrical systems check out fine and that they can't diagnose the prblem until it happens again (I don't think they believe me). Well it happened last night. I intend to have it towed in it's current condition so they can see for themselves. We did have the transmission replaced a year or so ago as well as the blower control switch behind the glovebox. I've seen messages in this forum possibly implicate these items as sources for my current issue. Any thoughts?
  • gp024megp024me Member Posts: 7
    2008 Jeep grand cherokee 35,000 mi 2WD replaced tires,drive shaft,universal joints,tranny kits,new tranny,and still have vibration, ive heard of having wheels balanced on a forced balance machine through a computer(while vehicle is in motion) I would hate to throw away 100 bucks and still have the problem?
  • wpatterswpatters Member Posts: 54
    We had the same problem and what it turned out to be was the solenoid on the starter getting oil around it and when it was cold the solenoid would stick. There is an old trick I learned as a kid when that happens...take a hammer or the handle of a screw driver and bang on the solenoid a few times and then try it again. The solution is to buy a new solenoid. You can get them separate from the starter and are very easy to replace. Only two bolts to undo for the starter and then no mystery on what to take off to replace the solenoid. Disconnect the battery FIRST and then undo at the solenoid. IF this is a 6 it is really easy.
  • lselllsell Member Posts: 2
    My 2002 JGC has 185k miles. I love my Jeep! But lately, when I drive it for 45 minutes or more and park it, it won't start when I try to start it again. It only clicks. Sometimes if I move the shift forward and back it will start. But not always. Usually have to wait 15-20 min.before it will turn over. Had it in to the dealer. They checked all the sensors. Thought it might have been the park/safety sensor. They found a few loose grounds and tightened them. That night on the way home it did it again. Cold start is always fine. Any suggestions?
  • mr_smithmr_smith Member Posts: 22
    I recently got a 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. Engine is 3.7 V6 4x2......Can anybody tell me the oil filter location. I don't feel like paying 30 dollars for an oil change, i just want to change it myself. Thanks
  • smokebeesmokebee Member Posts: 30
    From under the vehicle. At front of engine driver side. From above--you should be able to see it looking down at the driver side of engine. Access is best from under the vehicle.Filter tilts slightly toward front of car.
    Smokebee
  • harrybcharrybc Member Posts: 1
    I did a self diagnosis on my a/c and got code 56. Can anyone tell me what that number signifies? My problem is with the blower motor not working at all.
  • rustee34rustee34 Member Posts: 1
    Hi! I recently had my 2005 JGC serviced. I received this message a couple times prior and a few times since the service. This latest message received tonight after the car sat for a few hours only after driving it briefly earlier in the day isn't going away like before. We're supposed to go on a 2 1/2 hour drive tomorrow, my question is do I need to have this message addressed before heading out of town or is it not that big a deal?
  • mr_smithmr_smith Member Posts: 22
    I have a 06 JGC laredo......when the passenger window is all the way down, if I bring the window up by using the automatic command, it will stop about halfway then go back down on its own. Sometimes is will go all the way up and close completely, but most of the time it will stop half-way and go back down. Really getting annoying. Is anybody else experiencing this.....somebody has got to be.
  • mr_smithmr_smith Member Posts: 22
    Thanks man I found it....i appreciate that
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Just a thought - it could be that the power window (child) safety switch is defective or something is triggering it.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • blogengeezerblogengeezer Member Posts: 6
    Inside the passenger footwell, high near the blower motor is a flat four pin connector. Unsnap it, spray it clean and wipe a bit of copper paste anti-seize into each little female pin hole. Press the connector back together. The connector apparently gets a resistance and an oxide forms. The copper paste makes a solid electrical connection. If no success, meter the voltage at the connector power side, to track down the lost voltage. Possibly a fuse. DaFlikkers
  • blogengeezerblogengeezer Member Posts: 6
    That bright red light, IF seen in conjunction with another seperate indicator light in the center console panel switches, indicates that the passenger seat is un-occupied or has a small weight load (child) on it. The passenger airbag is turned off when that light is lit. This can be a good thing, and save an airbag destroyed dashboard, in a 'hard hit' front end collison. Or it can be bad if ... a normal weight is in the passenger seat. In that scenario, the passenger would not be protected. It also serves as an indicator of any air bag sensor/connector malfunction diagnosed as well. DaFlikkers
  • mnwillymnwilly Member Posts: 2
    The switch correctly engages fan motor from off to any position (A/C, heat, defrost, mix) but directs air to defrost only. I have replaced the switch (did not correct the issue) but fear that something behind the dash is causing problems. have dash 1/2 off but cannot ID the problem Any help?
  • rlipcz01rlipcz01 Member Posts: 11
    I took my 03 jgc to a mechanic who diagnosed the problem. look up the bbb to find a reputable shop. I had a problem with my jeep and it was the 3 control knobs, its sold a set of 3 knobs. there is a sensor in the control panel that is connected to the computer system. it controls the temperature of when the knob is turned to heat or cold. You may also have to replace the expansion valve to ensure a proper job. It worked for me. it runs about $450 but money well spent. It took me 5 years and 1300 dollars to resolve the problem..... :)
  • demateldematel Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with Fan relay on my 2004 Grand Cherokee. I even took it to my mechanic because he did not believe me over the phone that I do not have any fan relay under the passenger light. There are only 3 holes and no sign of any relay or wires for it. Does any one else have any info that could help me figure it out where to look for that FAN RELAY ??? Thank you in advance.. Marcel
  • its_jessits_jess Member Posts: 1
    I wish I had more of an answer for you, but I'll give you what I have: I also have a 2003 JGC. I bought it used during mild weather, and like an idiot, never even checked the heat. The A/C seemed to work good. Along comes winter........and the heater blows just as cold as the A/C. At first, I would occasionally get some heat randomly upon starting the vehicle....but as soon as I touched any control knob, back to cold air. I researched this on-line, and to my dismay, found that this is actually a pretty common problem on the JGC once they hit 60-65K miles. Also discovered that it can be a $1500-$3,000 fix- the problem is with the "blend doors" that stop working correctly, and will eventually break and stick either in the open (nothing but heat) or closed (nothing but cold) position. The blend doors are a $300 part- the rest is in labor, as they have to remove the entire dash to fix it. My problem has only gotten worse- now the fan has quit, so now the A/C doesn't even work. I've seen that there is a kit you can purchase for $150-$300 (find them on Ebay) that is an alternative fix which involves cutting out the back of the glove box to access the original part. Apparently, after this fix you will get heat/A/C, but it bypasses some of the original automatic climate controls, leaving you with limited control. :lemon:
  • topat46topat46 Member Posts: 20
    I had the same problem when I purchased my 2004 JGC Limited. It was purchased last August. It was a trade-in at a Mecedes dealer. The A/C worked fine (at least I thought it did). In September we had a one day cold snap so I tried the heater. Only cold air came out. I found out as you did that the blend-doors are a problem on these cars and the dealer wants an arm and a leg to repair it. After some searching I found the kit with the fix behind the glove compartment and installed it. It's now 10 months since the installation and everything is still fine. The climate control works as designed for both the driver and passenger side. I also had a problem with the blower-motor harness which I purchased at the dealer for $25 and replaced it myself. The kit for the blend-doors were purchased on E-Bay. There are two kits available. One gives you back full control of the system while the other gives you control with one dial. You should check the fault codes to be sure the problem is with the blend doors. I hope my experience helps you.
  • mnwillymnwilly Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for your help! I appreciate it.
  • smokebeesmokebee Member Posts: 30
    I, too had a similar problem. It turned out that the control door motor was stuck. Drop the glove bos door by opening it, feel along the top edges for two" ears". Manipulate those ears to align with slots in frame work. Pull the glove door all the way down. You will be able to see the motor housing near the left side of the dropped door. Two screws hold the motor in place, remove them and slip the housing off the shsft on the door flap. Test the door flap by twisting the exposed shaft. If it is free---do this(just be sure the door flap shaft is in same position as was at start). leave the electrical connection connected. Remove the screws holding the top of the motor housing--keeping it in upward postion. This will expose the gearing system which is driven by a tiny motor and worm gear shaft. . Turn the ingition switch on--rotate the heater door postion switch while watching the gear train.( If it moves you need to look somewhere else) If it does not moveYou will need to remove three gears to enable removal of the tiny motor(carefully note gear positions--they need to go back exactly as removed).Again do the igntion and control knob bit. If the motor does not spin-- Lift the motor out(after removing the two screws) and manually turn the shaft with fingers until it turns freely. put it back in and again do the ign and control knob( move from position to position, slowly). If it spins you have corrected the cause of no control position. Carefully replace the gears, top of motor and slide motor back onto housing shaft. Check it out. This corrected my problem. It's the pits doing it but hell of a lot cheaper.
    Smokebee
  • smithedsmithed Member Posts: 444
    2005 rear wheel (2X4) v6

    Today wouldn't shift into park, RND were fine. I drove it home.

    Now won't shift out of R. Can't get it into neutral to start it. Shifter will move down to N and D, but remains in R. Will not go into P. :confuse:

    Thanks for any ideas.
  • mrspankymrspanky Member Posts: 1
    dematel....I have a 04 GC also with the 4.0 and I could not find my FC relay either. Nobody at a local dealer here had ever heard of this phantom FC relay problem. I was able to find an electrical diagram on the web that does not show the FC relay for the 04 GC but that was it. The diagram only showed the PCM and two relays in the PDC near the battery. My GC was overheating now and then. It would seem to overheat when you were in stop and go traffic or letting it idle. I was not losing any coolant so I replaced the thermostat but that did not fix it. After much frustration I started the engine and sat there and watched it run until it began overheating. I paid particular attention to the fan. When the engine began to overheat the fan was barely spinning and would even shut off at times during the overheating. I knew this was not right so that is when I began this search for the FC relay but I could not find it. I disconnected the fan and did some checking on the two speed electric radiator fan. It has a 3 pin connector where the center pin is ground. When I ran power to one pin and grounded the center pin the fan would run. However when I switched the power to the other pin I got nothing. I had already checked operation of the Low and High Speed relays in the PDC near the battery and all checked out so I went and picked up a new radiator fan assembly and installed it. That was yesterday and that fixed the overheating problem. I have concluded that for some reason jeep eliminated the FC relay for some models and now relies on the computer to determine when and at what speed the fan should run based on coolant temperature inputs and A/C compressor status. I also found out that although my GC does not have the towing package it does have the max cooling package. When I went looking for a new motor for the radiator fan at local auto parts store I was asked if it had the towing package and I answered no. Everytime I did they would bring out a motor that only had a 2 pin connector. Not one of them kept the motor that would be needed if you had the towing package. I bet if they did it would have a 3 pin connector on it. So while my GC does not have the towing package I think it has the max cooling package that usually comes with the towing package. I think the standard cooling package uses a one speed fan where the max cooling package uses a two speed fan. It may be that the standard cooling package uses the FC relay which is supposed to be under the passenger headlight but the max cooling package eliminates the relay and uses the PCM to control two relays in the PDC which in turn run the fan. One more thing....replacing the radiator fan assembly involves removing the shroud. One of the 4 screws that holds the shroud is in a very tight space. I fianlly got to it with a long socket extension and swivel. I know this is long but I hope it helps because I was very frustrated at the lack of informartion available locally and on the web in reference to this oddity.
  • veetoveeto Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone experienced these problems and if so, are they related and what is the solution? (My best guess is that it is related to the Automatic Headlight On feature.)

    (1) When the vehicle is parked with no key in the ignition, the headlights come on, stay on for less than a minute, then go out.

    (2) When driving the vehicle during the day (with the auto headlamp control in the "Auto" position), it seems as if the headlights flicker on, then off intermittently.

    Any ideas on what my problem is??
  • jorgevargasjorgevargas Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem, this has happened twice in a period of one year, the first time it happened, I found the right headlight plug to be shorted(black melted plastic). So I replaced that, now I wonder if that was the problem because this time is fine. I recently replaced the battery. Any suggestions are welcomed. Thanks!
  • smokebeesmokebee Member Posts: 30
    On a 99 --4.0 engine--electric fan drive---the fan starts at 217 F temp and stops at 208
    F degrees. Might check radiator coolant temp to verify high enough temp to turn fan on. The fan relay is located in the same control center(box) as the fuses--passenger side ajacent to fender just in front of the coolant tank.
    Smokebee
  • 2xer2xer Member Posts: 1
    I have an '06 JGC, and it seems like every time it gets hot here (90+), when the radiator fan tries to kick on it blows the fuse (which then gives me P0480 and P0481 DTCs -- this sort of sucks because then the A/C won't kick on).
    Short in the radiator fan? -- any other ideas?
    Thanks!
  • smokebeesmokebee Member Posts: 30
    Have you manually inspected the fan ? Does it turn freely in off mode? Perhaps a piece of trash has it locked down??
    Good luck,
    Smokebee
  • bielssbielss Member Posts: 2
    1989 jeep cherokee, it's a deer lease limo. All is going fine until I try and shift into 4 wheel (high or low) the gears engage but not the front axle. There is no slipping or grinding going on, it drives normal in 4 wheel mode (high or low). What could be causing this? What is the fix to this issue? Has anyone else had this happen to their cherokee?
  • pams5pams5 Member Posts: 1
    I currently have 2 of these. One does this same thing. It only happens occasionally and is most noticeable at night (obviously). The lights will come on, turn on the motion sensors on the porch, then go off. It is like it is possessed! It has helped to turn off the Auto Headlight function, but that is a pain.
  • jrm6677jrm6677 Member Posts: 1
    I am having issues with my 04 JGC overheating when I am going to slow and idling. I doesn't get hot as fast when I put in neutral when idling though. Really what I want to know is where is the thermastat at and how do I remove it? I need to see if the is the problem.
  • justjim1960justjim1960 Member Posts: 1
    Where is the liftgate sensor locatedon a 1993 Cherokee? I also need to know where the body control module warning buzzer is, because it wont stop and its driving me crazy! The liftgate sensor says the liftgate is not latched even when it is, so i need to either repair the door sensor or rip out the alarn buzzer. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • murf11murf11 Member Posts: 1
    Just purchased and ran fine for the first week. Now it skips between 0 - 40 mph. Tried "good" gas, dry gas. Had it checked and they said nothing wrong with transmission and is all they could suggest is a tune up?????
  • look4alltitudelook4alltitude Member Posts: 1
    I had exactly the same problem and the oddest thing about it was that only the driver's side rotor locked, the passenger side was fine. I got to know the folks down at Auto Zone pretty well too. Did you ever find a solution? I'm driving around right now with one new and one old rotor. Let me know if you were able to find a rotor that fit.
    Thanks!
    Altitude
  • adolfson3hdadolfson3hd Member Posts: 1
    I have a cherokee 2001 2x4 . WHen i bought it the ac did not work,not a big deal however today. I heard this loud rumbling or humming noise from what i believe is the condenser(it is where the clutch is) I am not a mechanic so bear with with on this. I investigated it and i witness metal shavings coming from it. Remember this has the serpentine belt wrapped around it. Is this something that I need or can i just leave it.

    Help me if you can. email me at adolfson3hd@,mac.com
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Please don't ask for "personal" help via email. We all benefit when a problem is discussed on the open forum. Thanks.
  • asceasce Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1996 Grand Cherokee Limited with the V8. The entire fan and pully assemble has come loose. How do i fix it? Can some help me please/
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    my v8 has a large nut just behind the fan clutch that holds it on ,auto zone pep boys , in there tool loaner program has the wrench to tighten it down
  • chasozzychasozzy Member Posts: 1
    I am having this same problem. Where were you able to actually purchase the fan motor? Thanks
  • 98jgcdrvr98jgcdrvr Member Posts: 1
    I have water in the passengers side floorboard. I realize that it could be the a/c drain hose clogged or worse the heater core (but it is not over heating nor do I smell anti-freeze) I'm hoping that someone can tell me where the a/c drain hose is located. I've looked where the Haynes book showed it to be against the firewall it's not there, and I've looked around the passengers side tire well near the frame rail and I cannot find it. I don't if its fallen off or if I'm not looking in the right place. Does anyone know of where it might be located at?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    the pasage way is right above your left foot on the pass side
    heater box is like flat with a bump hanging down on the bottom

    easesy way to clean is drill small hole in the end of the bump and clean with wire through the hole then plug the hole up again
  • lynnshynnelynnshynne Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited. When I am driving on the highway at speeds of 60 mph or higher, I hear a faint, pulsing whine coming from the front end of the jeep, but the noise stops as soon as a take my foot off of the gas peddle. It is not a really loud noise, it's more of an annoying one. Any ideas? Please help!
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