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A bug could have built a nest inside and stopped the water flow. Use a piece of wire and stick it in the pipe and twist it around to loosen the debris.
Good luck,
S Swann
Also, my jgc has started burning gas like crazy. I drove about 15 miles today and it said I used about 45 miles worth of gas? How can I improve the gas mileage?
Just had the plugs replaced
Thanks in advance!
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
now this is why i say he is not correct, Your statement about how your getting really bad fuel mileage leads me to say that you have a egr valve problem, which someone with limited knowledge might read as a gas cap malfunction. a bad EGR valve will cause loss of fuel mileage, as well as a running problem that is sometimes hard to notice. do yourself some good and take it to a real shop.
FYI.. in the case of a bad gas cap, most of the time you can fix the problem for free, take a rag with a little fuel on it and rub the dirt and grime off the rubber seal and off the mating surface on the fill tube about once a month. as for the check engine light you dont have to wait for days for the light to go off, just take the car battery out for 30 seconds, reset your radio to the stations you like, and reset your clock.. Check engine light is no longer a bother.. hope this helps
Anybody know were can I buy it. (E bay only offer with gasoline engine).
Tahnk you Wojtek
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
-the last time i dealt with a thrust bearing was in my -64 air cooled bug..in that motor,they had what amounted to washers that went behind the flywheel..you'd stack them in there,till the shaft only moved about .003 -thousants-cause heat expands-etc..
---i could be wrong..also,haven't looked into how a thrust bearing sits in my jeep engine,or how to service/replace it..good luck !
i've fixed the broken windows(pax side 1/4 ,and front door glass),-ever since i've had it,the rear axle "whines",but hasn't gotten any louder..i think it's the pax side bearing,but-of corse-every service dept wants two grand to rebuild it,witch i feel is overkill if the only thing really wrong is that bearing..
--anyone else out there in cyberspace had a similar expierience with that series-all time-all wheel drive,aluminim casing-dana 44?
-also,when changing the back parking brake-the wear pattern on the shoes was wierd,like the axle wasn't setting in the right place..
--ain't got money to waste-as this thing's only getting 12-14 m.p.g.at best,and the tank is always hungry,so i don't need to throw away money i aint got..
--anyone else had this problem? :sick:
1. it falls flat on its face getting on the highway and when does go it feels like your being thrown into the next gear have had problems with it sputtering and feels like it not getting fuel/ not sure/ it has 118000 miles
2 air bag light dinging at me was every 5 10 minutes now every minute not sure where to look to even begin to fix this
3 does not like to start in the winter i have and electric start and it works good but if the weather is cold it really doesn't want to start with the key either annoying in winter!! :confuse:
My Grand Cherokee Jeep with diesel 3.0l CRD engine is equip with Mopar Vehicle Remote Start System.Recently system stop working. It is mean it start all procedures ( turn radio on, adjust seat, turn lights, by the end honk two times) but does not ignite the engine. Anybody can help ?
--seriously,try a good thorough tune up..probably hasn't been done since new..ya gots ta do th maintenence on em,or they run like--that-till they leave you walking to the next exit!!
I have a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0L petrol straight 6, now I have been suffering with a loud tapping noise that I would normally say is the tappets, but this only happens when the engine is cold then gets louder then just stops when the engine warms up, the tapping does not fade away, it just stops dead!! like a switch has turned on! got to add that you do not hear this when you 1st start up, only after a few seconds (10-15) the tapping starts.
But also when the engine is warm, you can hear this tapping (not as loud) in cycles, see if i can put this in to words!! the tapping starts off softly then builds in loudness, then just stops, again like a switch has tripped, then it does this again and again!!
Have had this checked by Chrysler - !!!! no help yet!!
Can anyone HELP!
Martin
I thought maybe bad gas at first, but she said the big 'wham' noise was definitely not a backfire. I looked under the car for anything obvious (I'm not a mechanic), and noticed that the rear part of the drive shaft had possibly come loose (slipped out) a half inch or so. Just making this observation from seeing where the shaft was shiney....then dirty like you might normally see.
Anyone have ideas? Sorry so vague about this, but that's all I know at this point. It's a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4x4 with 111k miles. Cars starts fine, but runs kind of weak...no passing gear etc, like it lost compression, maybe. Seems like a tranny related problem, but I don't know.
Thanks. I appreciate any input.
dayneseditz@hotmail.com
-once had a ford aerostar,with a 3.0,started "knocking",while using "multi-weight"oil(10-w-30),..started using "racing oil,a -sae 50-,no longer heard the noise,and that engine lasted me another two years/with a total 160.000 miles. sold it to someone who needed it that bad,and i DID tell them about the noise,and what i did,so maybe it'd last them for a while..
--today's oils,are thinner there wasn't even a 5w-oil available back in the -70's..don't use that-nearly diesel oil in your crankcase !..the auto makers -in their effort to sell you to sell you a new car,recomend you use that garbage,so you'll need a new engine-and probably just go ahead and get a new car-well,before the economy went "around the bowl,and down the hole",it kinda worked..
--sorry about going off on a tangent,but- try the heavier oil-change the filter,see if the oil pressure gauge drops when you hear the noise,also,maybe check and make shure your not just low on oil??..
--put some "friction proffing" stuff in it(slick 50-z-max-etc..)
--take care of your engine-and it will take care of you-maybe..
--good luck !
--my-98 gcl just started showing a empty tank-when i knew i had at least 1/4-even th "low fuel" lite came on..
was still running,so drove home-while smelling for "burning wires"(none-thank god !)..mext day,my 1/4 tank was back-and no lo fuel lite..put some in anyway-just to see if needle moved-it did..
guess this is one of those "bugs" that make owning a complicated piece of--..--gear sutch fun..especially now-when all that stuff is getting old..
-----don't ever want to find out-but wonder if the airbags would deploy?after twenty years??..makes you think..makes me drive better -where i shouldn't need them..nice and easy..
I have a 1994 Grand Cherkoee,4.0 straight 6 Auto 4WD.
I have no spark, No fuel.
when i turn key over ,the check engine light doesnt even come on as normal when you usually turn key over and "dummy" lights test i guess ...where all console lights come on for a second.
Ive changed crank sensor,cam sensor,relays related to this stuff ...The reason i changed relays was ..i would hear a clicking noise in the box containing all the relays it starts as a slow clicking noise then the check engine light would eventually come on and the clicking would stop ..
If the Check engine light comes on ... the truck would start. and the code for crank sensor would come on .. i changed the crank sensor and still nothing ...
At 1st the truck wouldnt start at temperatures below 50 degrees but now wont start at all ...
PLEASE HELP ..I DO NOT KNOW WHAT TO WORK ON OR CHECK NEXT!
-the way to check-is to -tug-on the wire..if it dfeels like you'r only pulling the plastic coating-rather than wire-there is your problem..
---WARNING---
to get it home,you can put a heavier wire on there-but repair it with fusable linl..and mt personal prefrence-is solder and shrink tube-right down by the starter...test it with a testr light.poke a hole through insulation-to contact wire,and see if you have power..go up the same wire about a foot,and test again..ifd you get power in one place,and not up the kline-there is your problem. !
--when fusable links go out-it usually means you have a short somewhere,and you get to test it-unplug diffrent harnesses(lights-a/c)stuff like that-till you get it to do it again..inspect closley-and find damaged wire,then fix it..unless you want to add to your oproblems by doing bad-cheap fixes-use solder and shrink tube..that is the best fix,not just twisting wires together..that will get you off the side of the road,but will fail soon..please--fix it right...and save yourself problerms..
--loose nut-behind the wheel !((you know..the madman with his foot to the floor..)the mecanic friends used to say that's what's wrong with my car..)just to explain my username..
--best of luck!
--good luck!
If so, are there any modifications needed on the new box?
if the auto makers were REALLY interested about customer service,they'd have a inter-company contest--and see who could diagnose-and fix really challanging problems like that, and have a big bonus check for the most talented! ? but-untill then,..find out who'se system your nav system that is,and see if they have any good ideas..
--other than that-get the BODY SERVICE MANUAL-for your car !..if you plan on keeping it -till th wheels fall off,that will be a invaluable book! -cause it was written-by the same people who built the car ! they might know something the others don't!