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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • will67will67 Member Posts: 2
    Help! well I happy with my JGC have for 5 yrs + whit 235 th... miles, very good car can't complain, but right now its shutting/turning off during a complete stop, the good thing is that I'm able to start it righ back on after turning /shuting off or by given 2 to 3 mins, can somone please advice or give a hand?
    thanks.
  • 2000jgcltd2000jgcltd Member Posts: 3
    I suspected that this might be the cause of my problem based on my research. Did you replace the part yourself or did it require a mechanic?
    It looks like the sensor (airtex 5s1730) can be purchased for around $30. I'm hoping this might be a quick and easy fix. Could I be so lucky?
    Thanks for replying
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    i yhink will76 is right..especially if you've got the six cyl..
    --it's a royal pain to get to,as it's on the BACK of the motor,using the flywheel for the moving part of the sensor system..it's only the size of a ball point pen,but i heard where you gotta loosen the motor-to get it out..!...
    --best left to someone who'se done it b4..
    maybe 200- :sick: 500 in a shop..
  • lance64lance64 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem on my 1999 4wd GC.You are hearing noise from the front hub bearings. Mine started getting noisy at 135,000 miles. The recommended method to check them (jacking up and pulling sideways on the wheel to check for play) did not indicate they were bad. But, I suspected them anyway because whenever I would spin a front wheel by hand, I could hear the noise (same pitch, but not as loud).

    I put the best bearing assemblies I could afford on it (Timken, purchased through Autozone @ around $80 each side), and the noise completely went away! For these hearings, you buy the whole assembly, not just wheel bearing like on a car. These assemblies are very strong.

    When I removed the old bearing assemblies, they still had grease in them and still turned freely, but I could feel needle-spaced racheting on the left one when turning then slowly by hand. So that was the problem. Always replace them in pairs. Good luck with your Jeep.
  • bruno5bruno5 Member Posts: 5
    Hi guys, I need help with my 4.0 please. I'ts got 135,00 hiway miles on her. Very good shape yet. When I go out in the morning it starts first thing fine and dandy[ If the battery's not dead, just replaced it but it still drains], But when I stop somewheres and come back out it starts but runs very rough, like it's not running on all cylinders. If I drive it a block, it settles down and runs fine. It seems to need to be driven a block to sort itself out, it won't settle down just sitting and running.
    I tried some tune-up things- plugs, wires, fuel filter- runs the same. This problem is not consistent, it's not every restart.

    Thanx for any help--Bob
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    Get the Haynes manual and do all the emission control checks. Check for vacuum leaks. In addition, something may be draining your battery overnight and/or alternator output may be inadequate. Vehicle should run off the alternator, but if it cannot provide enough current, engine will draw from the battery.
  • bruno5bruno5 Member Posts: 5
    Thanx for your reply. In reply to the emission control part, what item would cause the jeep to start like it's running on 3 cylinders, yet run perfect after 1 block? I believe I wrote that in the post.

    TX...Bob
  • bigcharlie7bigcharlie7 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7 . I have recently had the motor rebuilt. and they tell me, my pre cat and aft cat are plugged. It is very expense for these. I also live in San Diego, Ca. So, the dealer is the one that carry the cats. I need other place or someone who can sell me there used ( but good ) Catalytic Converter. I have found after market cheaper. But they won't ship to California even if they are OB-II. Can anyone help me.
  • deratristarderatristar Member Posts: 14
    Yes, I am interested as well. This happens in my 2000 JGC occasionally, especially when it is warm. Cold starts don't have the issue most of the time.
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    cali emissions control board are the strictyest inth land,

    lived in lala land for 8 yrs,and-no-NOBODY will sell you used cat converters..it's illegal,plus,the platinum in those makes th resale value utrageous..

    my best sugestion..
    first,is th exhaust on th car> if they're off,take a soft-brass HAMMER,and knock th crap out of them.. i found a old ford aerostar i got way cheap..would start,but when you'd try to accelerate-even in park,it'd die.. went to the exhaust pipe,and listened--it was TOO quiet.. figured it was kinda like "th bananna in th tailpipe" syndrome,where in fact-=like most american drivers-they "baby" their cars,and seldom clear out th exhaust-by "kicking it in th butt"every now and then..add to that,the cheap CRAP they sell us for gasoline,and the converter gets plugged..out of shear desperation,i climbed under it,and took my 28/oz framing hammer-and tried my best to knock a hole in th converter...th metal(after th shield came off),was so soft,it wouldn't make a hole..ten minutes of really hitting it,i gave up-for then..just to try it,went and started it up..a HUMONGUS cloud of coal black smoke came out th tailpipe,and that van never ran better!!...i did give it a new o2 sensor,but drove that truck till th wheels fell off-for over five yerars !
    you might want to try knocking th crap loose,maybe put a new muffler,as those are only $50 buks or so,some new o2 sensors,and give THAT a try ! :lemon:
  • johnmarshjohnmarsh Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I've recently had trouble starting my Jeep, as soon as I put the key in the ignition all the gauges come on as normal and so do all the lights and all other minor electronics but when I turn the key absolutely nothing happens, the jeep doesn't even try to turn over, someone mentioned that a key gauge is supposed to light up when the key is inserted but I haven't seen one light up.

    These are the things I've already checked out.

    -Jump started the jeep with no luck
    -Checked the starter fuse
    -I've also bridged the starter with a screwdriver which worked for a day but since then I've tried doing the same thing but it doesn't work.

    Any help would be great. Oh yea ever since I've had the jeep there are times that I have to push the gear shift in park a little more and it would start up right away, but that won't work either.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    Try ebay motors. I've been buying a lot of parts there. I've seen new converters for sale. If you find one and it's not an oem fit, see if a muffler shop can make an adapter. You probably could use a new muffler or brakes. Ask them to install new cats as part of a pkg.

    I don't know what kind of reception you are going to get if you ask them just to install your new cats
  • schwab415schwab415 Member Posts: 5
    I have replaced the battery, alternator and belts...Each morning the Jeep will crank, but will not start until I hit the gas pedal. Once it gets going, it will not idle so I have to keep the gas and break pedal held to shift into gear, which at this time still has a hard time going. The weird thing is when the Jeep is driven somewhat, it will start the next time throughout the day no problem??? I only have this problem in the mornings, but it seems to be getting worse. Has anyone else had this problem and if so how did you remedy this situation??? Please advise!
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    edited April 2010
    With electronic fuel injection everything is controlled by the engine computer. You shouldn't have to put your foot on the gas to start it.

    When you turn key to start it, give it at least 5 secs to start before you release key.

    Basically there's no reason to put your foot on the gas until the engine has started, you put it in drive, and you're ready to move forward.

    You might try cleaning the throttle and the intake manifold.

    The intake at the head should have a dry, black, carbon deposit if it is dirty. It should not be wet.

    Get a Haynes manual and follow their procedures.

    I have a Jeep with 178K, Ford Escape 120K, and Toyota pickup with 120K. I never had a problem that required replacement of the fuel injectors.

    I have had starting problems where the starter motor was not completely dead, but it was not functioning properly. Replacing a starter is one of the easier DIY jobs.
  • stevencap09stevencap09 Member Posts: 1
    how do you remove the serpentine belt?
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    I have a 97 JGC with 4.0 L I6 and mine works this way.

    My tension adjustment bolt is attached to the power steering bracket. It is a very long bolt mounted at a 45 deg angle relative to the pump (/). You have to loosen the pump mounting bolts and then loosen or tighthen the tension bolt to adjust belt tension. If you can't get the belt off I suggest you look at removing the power steering pump. I know that will work because I had to remove pwr steer pump to work on engine.
  • igozoomzoomigozoomzoom Member Posts: 801
    A great resource for locating used/salvage parts is the website www.Car-Part.com...

    The site has access to the inventory of thousands of salvage yards across North America. It shows you a list of what's available including the price, condition and location. Many of the vendors even offer a warranty on the parts they sell....and a return policy.

    I've had great luck finding parts for my '95 JGC Laredo 4.0L and my '06 Mazda3! :)
    2015.5 Volvo S60 T6 Drive-E Platinum, 2012 Mazda CX-9 GT
  • trawlinstrawlins Member Posts: 1
    edited May 2010
    I am not a mechanic by trade. I have the same 2 problems with my '95. I was told that the clicking that occurs as im turning corners is a steering nuckle problem. As for the not shifting right. We took our jeep into the dealer for a coolant system repair and it came home not shifting right. I was told that had something to do with the throttle body. Jeep denies any involvement of course but it ran PERFECT before they "tried" to fix it. :mad: I wouldnt recommend taking it to Jeep but some other small mechanic in town should charge you less and still be able to give you the info you need.
  • podedwardspodedwards Member Posts: 35
    My 2006 5.7 4WD Grand Cherokee has 68K miles and is by far the best vehicle I have owned in 45 years of driving. I am just now replacing the front brake shoes and battery. On the second set of tires and got nearly 60K on the factory Goodyears. It has been nearly flawless and I have used it on interstate, mountains, wet, snow and ice.

    It has ben sold, safe and reliable.

    I enter this information because had I actually believed the initial posts I would have believed it was a terrible vehicle. Complaints about modern autos seem to come from very poor drivers getting attention by complaining. Is that the current deal?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    for sure i have a 2000 GC and have 219000 miles on it get 75000 miles on my tires (use Michelin) other than that have radiator prob changed three seam to crack on the plastic tanks where joined to alum en core
  • naatz1naatz1 Member Posts: 188
    I remember chatting with you a few years ago when I was debating buying a 2nd JGC vs other alternatives. It's great you enjoy the 06. My son is still having very good luck so far on his (my former) 2001 I6 loaded Laredo with 110K miles. I did end up buying a YE closeout 07 loaded Laredo 4.7 w/X package and it's done very well, just turned 29K mi. I am close to my first big scheduled maintenance with F/R differentials, maybe tranny fluid (I think I will try to do the plugs, they look reachable on the 4.7 which I am sad to see they discontinued). It's running great in MN winter and pulling our boat/trailer in the summer - I use the remote start a lot in winter. I won't get 60K mi on the GY Forteras despite regular rotation, lucky to see 40K but the Jeep is doing fine. I hope we get many more years and with the lifetime drivetrain I have on this 07, I plan to keep it going to 200K. I do agree with you, many tend to 'vent' on the internet for cars they are not happy with or perhaps do not understand or maintain ... I am sure there are some lemons out there but even our 01 Jeep with brake problems once we got new rotors/pads on (free under warranty 35K mi) the new F/R pads are still there at 110K mi!
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    the 4.7 dont need plug change till 100,000 miles just check one but i put 100,000 miles on my gc 4.7 and the plugs were still ok just dont put in anything but what is called for as plantum cross fire etc drives the computer nuts trying to keep the engine in time has knock sensors all sort of things that effect timing and the computer takes care of all of this
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    I HAVE A DINOSUAR;compared to yours-a-98 laredo..with 137.456 on it,along with several IDIOIT owners ! !(NEVER put diffrent sized tires on a all wheel drive !it rips on the axle gears!along with other more sensetive parts)..but this one survives!
    ---one critique would be where we,as owners,could gain acess to the software to our own vehickles-bought and paid for-,but dalmer/chrystler still wants you to bring it to them-because they are the ONLY ones with the software,and will NOT release it to anyone but their service dept's!
    --the 5.7 is STILL rated as THE FASTEST S.U.V EVER BUILT!.!!
    --my little 5.2 isn't that far behind.. the largest problem is mileage..my trip comp rates my n.p.g at everything from only 7 in town,to 14 on the freeway..that's only running marathon premium,as with it's age,it doesn't loke cheap gas--AT ALL! ! !
    -it won't start-with the remote start,sometimes taking three cycles to fire up and run-especially with -20f..temps..also,i NEVER use that 5-w-anything oil ...it's too thin!
    10-w 30 AT LEAST..if you want the engine to last over 100k..so many cars in the paper read "nice car-needs engine"..part of "planned obsolesence",where they want to sell you a new one..it's wasteful,and fills up our landfills..plus--IT'S A JEEP!! it climbs like a billygoat,hugs the road better than a mustang,if it only got better mileage?!
  • cstracycstracy Member Posts: 1
    The vehicle is full-time 4WD and while driving up a hill it feels like I'm going over a speed bump, but I'm not. I'm now starting to notice the same problem on flat roads after driving a steady speed for about 1 hour. The problem will occur 2 or 3 times and then quit. I'm not sure if this is a transmission problem or a drive train/transfer case problem. Any ideas?
  • wpatterswpatters Member Posts: 54
    Not sure if we are talking about the same problem but I have a '93 GC which has all the time 4W dr and just lately it acts like it is "catching" in first gear. Kind of jerking once or twice before staying in gear. Sometimes it just feels like it never goes into first and is starting out in second. If I manually put it in first it seems OK. Is this a sign that the fluid needs to be changed or that the Transmission is going out? I read that there are bands that need adjusting...is that true?
  • bigbill42436bigbill42436 Member Posts: 5
    I've seen similar msgs. on here about front end shaking or steering wheel shaking when brakes are applied when coming from highway speeds to stop. Most say its the rotors but what could it be if you still have this problem after replacing the rotors and put on new brake pads? I thought the problem went away but it came back the same day I replaced rotors and brakes. Any help or info. would be of great help.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    who replaced your brakes? you or a garage it sounds as if the wheel nuts were tightened to tight
    i have a tourk wrench in my jeep and when doing anything that involves loosing the wheel nuts i tighten them my self with my wrench took care of the shaking problem
  • bigbill42436bigbill42436 Member Posts: 5
    I replaced the brakes myself but did not know that you had to torque the wheel nuts. If so, then how many lbs. are they to be torqued?? I used an impact to tighten them by the way.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    tighten to 90 lbs inpack wrench is a no no probably warped the rotors all ready that is what causes the shakes
  • wpatterswpatters Member Posts: 54
    How much is a good torque wrench?
  • bigbill42436bigbill42436 Member Posts: 5
    Hopefully that hasnt happened yet but I will torque them 90 lbs and hope the problem goes away. Thank you. :)
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    harbor freight has them for 20 25 dollars
  • sabra2sabra2 Member Posts: 1
    2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee - 6 cyl. Sometimes when I get on the Interstate and get to speed of 50, or so, when the rpm should drop, it will not, stays around 3 rpm if going 55 -60. Also it has started acting like it wants to shut off when I come to a stop. Sometimes the rpm will go almost all the way down and catch itself and go back to normal. Twice it has completely shut down. I have had the battery and alternator replaced last December (2009). Any suggestions? (I am female so please overlook my way of explaining - don't know the technical terms. Would like to try to educate myself somewhat before taking to someone.) Thanks.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    In your position I suggest you get somebody to first look at any control cables, electrical wires, and electrical connectors related to the transmission. Just a simple visual inspection should not be big $. If transmission has its own computer and its external to transmission, ask them to check the ground wire. They might suggest changing internal filter, but I don't think it will help. If you can, ask a general mechanic to look at it before you go to the transmission shop. I've had negative experience with transmission shops.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    have them check the tps censer
  • drtyme1drtyme1 Member Posts: 1
    Hey folks,

    Would replacing the wrong fluids in the diff cause damage? replacing 70/140 with 70/90 ?

    Need a bit of advice ... I took my vehicle in to one of these quick lube places ... they had recommended changing the fluids in the front and rear diffs. I was not experiencing any issues with the vehicle but since the fluids as far as I know were not changed ... I ok'd the work.

    Shortly there after I started hearing a grinding noise coming from the rear ... Great I just changed the fluids now a noise ... took it into a shop... told him I just had the fluids changed ... so he wrote off the diffs and said it sounds like the wheel bearings ... replaced the wheel bearings .

    The noise still there ... this is when i start looking into what was replaced in the vehicle ... the shop has admitted replacing the fluids with the wrong grade ... however the are not accepting that the wrong fluids caused damage.
  • twagner76twagner76 Member Posts: 1
    edited June 2010
    I have a 97 jeep cherokee i had to flush the radiator two days ago. and two day i wen to go fishing with me dad and the low radiator hose came loose. NOW she is nocking hard core. and the oil pressure gauge will not move now also. what is going on :mad: :sick:
  • lynne16lynne16 Member Posts: 2
    Hi
    How do I check the levels for my transmission oil on my grand cherokee 2003 crd, I cant find the dipstick??
    Any ideas very much appreciated
    Thanks
  • lynne16lynne16 Member Posts: 2
    Hi
    I have purchased a 2003 grand cherokee crd but dont have the instruciton manual for the sat nav, does anyone know where i can get hold of a copy?
    thanks
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    My jeep is older than yours, but I bet dipstick is in same location. Mine is close to the firewall on the driver side and it is very low. You have to reach down. The handle may be black and its a little dark down there. On other cars I own it is much easier to find. Yours may be on passenger side, but I bet its still down low and close to firewall.
  • bigtex96jgcbigtex96jgc Member Posts: 1
    Need some help. My 20a cluster fuse (pass side kick panel) keeps blowing. Sometimes when I accelerate and the rest of the time as soon as I put the neg cable back on the batt. Replaced batt last week. All other fuses on all other panels (under hood and on pass kick panel) are good. I did see this TSB: http://www.jeep-club.at/troubless/TSB/08-41-95.htm but no other ideas. I have looked for loose wires and bad grounds. The ONLY think I found so far is that I see to have a very long batt ground which is coiled around the batt at tied to the AC lines under the hood. I am guessing short but no idea where to look first.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks in advance!
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    Disconnect (-) on battery first. To solve this problem you will have to pull the instrument cluster and disconnect all wiring. Obtain a pinout diagram of connectors on cluster. Then, identify all pins/sockets that are NOT ground. Then check them with a digital volt meter to see if any are shorted to one of the ground pins on the cluster. If you find a short, replace the cluster. If not, you will have to check the wiring. For checking wire shorts, have a long clip lead attached to the (-) terminal connector that you just removed from the battery and connect it to the DVM. Then, probe all non Ground wires for a short. Use a DVM that gives an audible beep when it reads a short. If you replace the cluster without checking the wiring, a problem in the wiring could damage the cluster as soon as you install it. If you find no shorts in cluster or wiring, then I would take a chance and replace the cluster. You could have an input that is suppose to have 10K ohms, but is actually 50. It won't show up as a short, but can still draw too much current and blow the fuse.
  • jeepriajeepria Member Posts: 2
    By reading this forum I see buying my 98 Grand Cherokee as a spare vehicle was a mistake. But since the damage is done...

    My JGC just has a terrible smell coming through the vents. Where do I start to get rid of it. Air freshener doesn't help. I can't use the heating/cooling system b/c its so bad.
  • yrrrdaddy1yrrrdaddy1 Member Posts: 2
    Where can I find the trans number for my jgc?
  • mrcorvette1mrcorvette1 Member Posts: 1
    After stumbling onto the site....let me say impressive.
    I've been considering purchasing a Jeep Grand Cherokee.
    I was surprised to see the amount of posts.
    How many people would recommend the purchase, or stay away ?
  • jbatts1jbatts1 Member Posts: 1
    Hi Jodie, my wife and I are now having the same noise with our 2001 JGC....did you ever figure out how to fix your noise? Ours started after having our transmission leak fix but the transmissions shop doesn't seem to know how to fix it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
  • sarge836sarge836 Member Posts: 12
    Do you think I can take a straight 6 out of my cherokee sport and put in a 93 wrangler "S" that has a straight 4 cyl in. This wrangler is manual and my sport is automatic. How hard to you think it would be to change the Wrangler putting the straight 6 and automatic in it???? or can I put the 6 in it and leave it standard trans? I have both vehicles now and thought about doing it put didn't know if I would need to do alot of changes to the wrangler to put in the straight 6 4.0. Thanks for any suggestions you can give me before I tear into it. If anyone needs help on this 4.0 I know the cherokee sport 4.0 inside and out. Thanks Jeff
  • woowoowootywoowoowooty Member Posts: 12
    I am trying to drain my radiator and refill it with coolant. I just had a new radiator put in and the guy that did it didn't fill it correctly, and it is overheating. After some checking I realize refilling the radiator in a cherokee is different than other vehicles. The instructions I have tell me to drain the engine block of coolant by removing the cylinder block drain plug. I have absolutely no idea where this is. Can anyone please point me in the right direction? Also, if anyone has any suggestions so that I fill the radiator properly this time so it won't overheat.
  • woowoowootywoowoowooty Member Posts: 12
    Did you replace the heater core because the heat stopped working all of a sudden?? My 1999 Grand Cherokee Limited is having MANY issues and this is one of them. It started where only the driver's side was blowing hot air and the passenger side was blowing cold air. Then in the spring, both sides started blowing cold air. Does this sound like the heater core and if it is, how difficult is it to replace it?
  • woowoowootywoowoowooty Member Posts: 12
    I am having the same problem with mine. Did you ever figure out what it was??
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