Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

1…9091939596…99

Comments

  • woowoowootywoowoowooty Member Posts: 12
    My Cherokee is having so many different problems and I don't know how to handle all of them. If anyone has any suggestions or have had the same problems, PLEASE HELP ME !!

    The brake light doesn't work on the driver's side only when the headlights are on. I replaced all of the sockets per a mechanic and all was well. Now it is doing it again. I checked the socket and the bulb and both are fine. I am not sure what to do at this point. I can't afford to take the car to the jeep dealership or even get a mechanic to work on it knowing how expensive it will be.

    The heater is not working. It started off only on the passenger side, but now it doesn't work at all. I have read other posts talking about the door needing to be replaced. Lots of people are saying to get a heater repair kit and do it myself. Does anyone know how difficult it is to do this? Once again, I can't afford to have a mechanic do it.

    The power windows on the driver's side don't work. Every once in a while they will work for a couple of minutes, and then stop again. Then a couple of weeks ago I noticed the front window was down a little bit. It appears the window if off its track because it slips down by itself. I have had to stick something down into the window to keep it from slipping down by itself. Has anyone else had this problem?

    If anyone has any suggestions, I would really appreciate it!
  • joesjeepsjoesjeeps Member Posts: 5
    The CV joint in my front drive shaft started making a whistling noise awhile back and during my research for solutions I read that Jeep in there infinite wisdom advises that this particular drive shaft can't be rebuilt but instead needs to be replaced (Hayne's shop manual).
    I have heard some rumors that you can have a new shaft made with u-joints instead of CV joints, that can also be periodically greased.
    If you know anything about this please contact me. I need to replace this before it get's any worse.
    Thank You,
    Joe
  • woowoowootywoowoowooty Member Posts: 12
    I see you posted this a few months ago, but none the less, I would NOT buy a cherokee. I love mine, but have had nothing but problems with it. It is getting to the point where I cannot afford to repair it anymore and need to get another car. It is too bad, because they are nice cars. What did you decide to do? Did you buy one or not?
  • molinjharmolinjhar Member Posts: 1
    I've had her forever and beat her to death, she's never let me down. 8 cyl motor all stock. Last Friday I noticed the radiator overflow looked funny so I looked down in it and it looked and smelled like used motor oil, not oil/antifreeze mixed but straight oil. I checked the oil in the block and it was clean. I checked the antifreeze and it was clean. Thought my son might have added oil to the overflow by mistake, and cleaned it out. Drove it to work and checked it again and found oil in there again. This has me stumped. Clean oil, clean antifreeze, good oil pressure, not overheating but I'm getting clean oil in the radiator overflow. I would think it's the head gasket but I dont have the brownish milky oil or antifreeze I've seen in the past on other vehicles with a cracked head or blown gasket. A buddy of mine asked a mechanic he knows and was told that theres a seal on the underside of the intake that causes this but I dont see how that could be. I mean how does oil get to tha overflow without mixing with the antifreeze. Has anyone seen this or have any ideas?
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    Are you sure it is motor oil? It could be dirty transmission fluid. I bought a used pickup and trans fluid was black because it had never been serviced. Trans fluid cooler is integrated into radiator assembly. Inspect lines and fittings at radiator. Is your trans fluid level going down? Service trans and put clean red fluid in it. Find out if you have an oil cooler option. Could be integrated or a small seperate radiator mounted on radiator assembly. One other thing. Pressure test radiator. Where I live you can borrow one from Autozone. The pressure should hold for an hour.
  • volbuildervolbuilder Member Posts: 1
    edited August 2010
    I HAVE A 1993 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE. IT IS A 4.0 SIX CYLINDER 4 WHEEL DRIVE. THE TRANSMISSION IS LEAKING BUT CANNOT FIND THE LEAK. SOME HOW THE FLUID SEEMS TO BE GETTING IN THE OIL PAN. ANY SUGGESTIONS?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    trans cant get in the engine oil pan
    is trans fluid going down with out a spot on the ground then check inside the rad see if going there also see if transfer case is over filled if the seal at the rear of trans goes the fluid can move to the trans fer case over fill it by 2 to 3 quts before coming out the vent or blowing the drive shaft seals
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    I concur with previous opinion. Somewhere the fluid is leaking and entering at one of the engine seals. Most likely it is the rear cover seal. I think you will have to pull the trans to inspect it.
  • perry101perry101 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1993 jeep grand cherokee and the right side rear power window is not working. I have tested the regulator motor and it is ok. I don't seem to have power going to the switch on the door, however there is power to the switch on the driver's door and all other windows work, any ideas
  • mack3155mack3155 Member Posts: 1
    Drink holder of middle glove box (rear side of glove box) is stuck in open position. How do you access drink holder to repair or get it to close?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    screws at bottom of box hold it in
  • palmeidapalmeida Member Posts: 1
    Hi. My 2000 Grand Cherokee has been acting up. It started with fake messages in the vehicle information center. Sometimes it beeps three times but doesn't show a message. Sometimes it beeps three times and flashes either "coolant low" or "washer fluid low" just for a second. This will happen every few minutes while driving. Now it's also failing to start. Sometimes it will start right up and sometimes it won't start at all. This morning, while driving, it just shut down completely and without warning. It wasn't running roughly or sputtering, it just shut down. Does this sound like the PCM is in the process of dying? Thanks, in advance, for your help.
  • digitechdigitech Member Posts: 2
    Hello there ,
    I've had my cherokee for going on 5 years now. 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo with the 4.0 6cyl in it. had a few issues over the years and a couple sound like what you have now. Though I have to be honest , your issue sounds alot like electronics and probably ( unfortunately ) even the Brain ( computer mod ). The Cherokee can be sensitive when it comes to that display and even the engine light can display when she wants new oil. I have had the low coolant light come on simply because the overflow was near empty. It did refuse to start at one time but it turned out to be the locking mechanism throughout the steering column. Whatever the case don't give up on your Cherokee , the vehicle is one of the best I have ever owned and the 4.0 is by far the best engine built in my opinion ( plus it has been around for a long time and all the bugs worked out of it ) - Best of luck with it my friend... take her to the Doc , she will love you for it. John -
  • skijeep1skijeep1 Member Posts: 5
    This happen to my 2000 JGC and it turned out to be the battery that was on its way out
  • rott1010rott1010 Member Posts: 1
    Radiator fan won't come on,fuse is good but no power to fan motor, is there a temp sesor
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    Find out where the relay is. The fuse will blow if the circuit is overloaded. The relay is used to switch the fan on and off. Typically, the engine computer switches it on/off based on engine temperature. You can hot wire the fan to make sure it isn't the fan before you replace the relay. In my ford the relay was in a module with other relays so I had to replace the module.
  • dougwmjgcdougwmjgc Member Posts: 1
    I have 2 questions, both unrelated.

    1. It sounds like the fan is continuously running and as the engine speeds up the fan speeds us. It sounds sort of like a rumbling... Is this caused by a faulty fan relay? How do I replace and cost?

    2. The AC quit working on both sides of the vehicle. It is equipped with the dual climate control system. I have seen where some people have issues with warm air coming out one side and cold on the other, but this doesn't seem to be the same. I can adjust the air warmer, but the AC never gets cold. The code put out does say blend door range too small. Also compressor does come on and hoses do get cold, just no cold air inside.. What’s the repair and cost?

    Thanks much!

    Doug
  • uncfuzuncfuz Member Posts: 5
    Car has been running fine. Has 225,000 miles. The OD switch light has been constantly on for a while but shes run fine. The other day she started, was running parked for a bit, I turned on the AC, put the windows down, put her in reverse and she stalled and wouldn't start again. Engine turns over but get nothing. Looking at the wires I saw a crack so replaced the wires cap and rotor. I checked for spark and it was there so I know the crankshaft postponer sensor is working. Even took a plug out and saw it sparking. So I have spark. I disconnected the battery to clear any codes on the computer. After I reconnected the battery the first two tries it just cranked but then she started. She ran smooth. I turned her off and tried again and started right up.

    I proceeded to take her for a drive and two miles down the road she started running rough and stalled. She wouldnt start again. I went on to check if I have fuel. Fuel pressure gauge went up to 40 and maintained. Can press the shrader valve and gas comes shooting out. It had been a while since I change the fuel filter so I replaced that to make sure I was getting unrestricted gas flow. When I disconnected the filter the line drained itself all the way to the engine. Once the filter was in I cranked it and she wouldnt start but the fuel rail had pressure and gas again. I can press the shrader valve and get several bursts of gas out before the pressure goes down.

    Since I have pressure and gas to the rail next thing I checked was the injector wires. I plugged a noid into the connectors and when I crank the engine the noid lights up that they are getting power. So I dont understand if I have spark, gas to the rail, the injectors are connected to the rail, I have power going to the injectors then why am I not starting. I pulled the plugs and they seem to be dry.

    I was told it has to be your fuel pump. That it builds pressure and doesnt maintain it. When the pressure gauge is on it reads over 40 and when you stop stays at 40. Doesnt drop past 40. The book says it should read 14 or 15 lbs.I read that if it doesnt start to test the fuel pump take off the air hose on the throttle body and shoot carb cleaner inside. If she starts that way its the fuel pump not having enough pressure. It wouldnt start or flutter when I shot the carb cleaner in.

    If it is the fuel pump I have no problem replacing it. I just dont want to replace it if thats not the problem. Rather not spend be 300 on a part I dont need. If it wasnt reading 40lbs at the rail and me seeing how much comes out of the shrader I would believe that the fuel pump is the cause. I dont think all 6 injectors failed at once. I dont think they would fail then run smooth then fail again. But my gut is telling me there has to be a sensor I am overlooking or an electrical problem not the fuel pump. I just dont know what to check or how to test more than I have. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

    I did have someone suggest pulling the rail and seeing if the injectors shoot. I am not sure if the rail needs to be grounded to test this but I will be trying that later today.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    I think you have a vacuum leak and/or air supply problem which is causing improper air/fuel mixture. I just solved a stalling hesitation problem on a 96 minivan. There were a few times it wouldn't start after it stalled. Test all vacuum lines and any vacuum reservoirs. PCV valve and grommet should be tight. Make sure your foot is not touching the accelerator when you start it and give it at least 7 seconds. Stepping on it opens the throttle and lets more air in. My experience was that the engine uses MAF sensor to know how much air is entering to control fuel injectors to get right air-fuel mixture. If air is entering someplace else, the engine computer will not know it causing the air-fuel mixture to be diluted. You can try plugging vacuum ports to see if it helps, but some ports are necessary. In my own case the culprits were a cracked EGR tube which I damaged when I replaced EGR valve. It goes from exhaust manifold to EGR valve. The other big culprit was the power brake booster. It's vacuum reservoir is large. You can plug its port to see if it helps you start, but don't drive anywhere: you won't have any brakes. I also replaced my EGR valve because I have no way of knowing if it is stuck open or closed.
  • taffy3taffy3 Member Posts: 26
    As a simple test, swap the fuel pump relay with a similar one - the wipers or horn could do it. These relays fail intermittently for a while before total failure. If that is the problem, change them all as they'll be coming to the end of their life.
  • ghbj1ghbj1 Member Posts: 1
    I have an '02 JGC. Yesterday I used an excellent kit by 3M to sand and polish the headlamps. The faces are beautiful, but the lamps are still fogged internally. I have been told that the problem cannot be fixed because the lamps are in housings (so how does one replace a bulb, so how did the condensation get in there to begin with?). Something doesn't add up here. Does anyone have experience remvoing fog/condensation from the INSIDE of the headlamp housings? Many, many Thanks.
  • eman78eman78 Member Posts: 1
    i recently fixed the ac on my jgc,i was told by the crook of a mechanic i used to go to that i had to replace the blower motor and resistor.what i did was i removed the blower motor (it's located under the glove compartment and it's held in place by 3 star head screws)after i disconected the power line, i tested it by hooking it up directly to the car battery,and it worked! after wich i removed the resistor wich is a plastic box about 2 inches to the left of the blower motor,3 wires hook up to the resistor from inside of the engine.2 of these wires had come loose i reconected them to the resistor,problem solved.in your case you may have to replace the resistor, 90 to 100 dollars,worst case scenerio you would also have to replace the blower motor(very rear for this peace to go dead)on ebay they go for about 50 bucks,removing and reinstalling these parts was one of the easiest repairs i've ever done,and i'm no mechanich.so if i can do it pretty much everyone out there can too,
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    my-98 has one shiny-fresh lens,-aparently from a repair.i've tried ,but can't get them to match!?!..oh well!..it's a jeep,and that's not it's only "battle scar",so i live with it..
    --you probably have a crack in the foggy lens somewhere , and that moisture in that lens COULD make it fail -or go out early..as when your replacing the bulb,they tell you to NEVER touch the bulb-cause the oils in your skin will make the bulb explode,so i dunno how forgiving it is with water,but it's probly best if you could get it out..
    --what i did was pull the entire lens-one spring and it bslips out of the adjusting screws-after you pull the three/four screws and pull the grill..
    unplug the bulb,then-CAREFULLY twist the collar,and pull the bulb out,and set it on a clean paper towl..if you do touch the bulb,clean it with some rubbing alcohol-windex,etc..after you get the bulb out,see if you can spot the leak,glue up the crack,use a hair dryer to clear out the moisture,and put it back together..
    --then,you will know how easy it really is to replace those headlight bulbs-as compared to the old scool ones where you had that big bulb-rusty screws,and they were always going out!..that's why there werre so many "cyclop's"(one eyed monsters) back then!..it's not that bad,or you could always just get a new one and put that one in?..just like most things,all it takes is-time and attention!!...good luck! :shades:
  • aabboodaabbood Member Posts: 2
    edited October 2010
    Does anyone know what the warranty is on the 2000 Jeeps? Is it 100K miles? I have 103K and just thew a rod into the engine block. Advice? Been current on all oil changes, I am the second owner--it was a certified pre-owned 7 yrs ago. Just got it back Sat. night--had it less than 24 hrs before THIS. The work that was just done on it included a new radiator, a PCM card, tune up, front and rear diffs, new battery cables, new starter, transfer case serviced, front pinion seal replaced and rear axle shaft seals and the heat shield on the exhaust manifold was re-secured b/c it was rattling. There isn't any fuel in the oil that I can detect--that was the first thought as to what could have caused it. This jeep has been a commuter vehicle for the past 4 years. I need a miracle.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    edited October 2010
    I have to replace the water pump on my 97 JGC, 4.0L V6. I have removed the belt and the 4 nuts from the bolts that go thru the pulley. BUT, I cannot remove viscous fan drive or the pulley. Tried a 12 in. pry bar and a hammer with 1x2 wood stick. It doesn't budge. It almost seems welded on. Is there any way I can remove these items without damaging them? If you can't remove the pulley, I'm not sure I can get the water pump bolts all the way out? Or is the only way to try to remove the water pump and separate these items on the workbench? Any input appreciated.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    Does anyone know where the back-up lamp switch is on a 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee? Thanks.
  • etomorietomori Member Posts: 11
    Sorry to hear about your situation. Have a 99 JGC Laredo V-8 with nearly 200,000 miles on it. Believe that the 2000 models had a three-year, 36,000 mile basic warranty on the drive train. An option was a 7 year, 100,000 mile extended factory warranty which I used until 98,000. Think that I might have had a "lemon," but the dealer took really good care of me. The only thing that was not replaced was the long block.

    As to warranty coverage, you should look at the warranty papers that came with your purchase of the CPO to see the exact time interval and the allowable mileage left on the policy. Looks like you are on the outer edges or, over the time and mileage limitations.

    Since it appears that you went to the dealer to get extensive repair/maintenance service, perhaps you can get deal on rebuilt or used engine.

    Had a neighbor who threw a rod on a 2000 JGC Limited V-8 at around 80,000 miles. Claimed he had the oil changed at 6,000 mile intervals and it was supposed to have been changed just prior to the incident. Examination of the oil revealed that it it had not been changed for a very long time --- it was heavily sludged. It looked like the oil was never changed. Just in case, have the oil looked at to see whether the oil had actually been changed as claimed! He did not have the extended coverage. He ended up selling it to a mechanic for a pittance of its value if it was running.

    Another cause may be that the service person drained the oil out of your engine and forgot to fill it with oil and started the engine to check for oil/filter leaks. Dry-firing could throw a rod.

    Looks like you have few options for a resolution. In view of the work that you have just put into it, the best option is to put in a used/remanufactured engine and factor the costs out by keeping it for another 100,000 plus miles.
  • aabboodaabbood Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info, I am looking for a rebuilt or junker motor now. You were right, 3 yr. 36000. The oil was clean as a whistle, I do check it somewhat regularly and I have lifetime oil changes from the dealer. Could it have 'dry fired' and still been drivable but just damaged? A friend worked on it as a favor--it was only supposed to get a new radiator, it had a fresh filter and oil when I got it back. Currently I am bumming rides to work as I have not yet paid for the original work just done on it.
  • vncntsbrvncntsbr Member Posts: 2
    edited October 2010
    when i turn the ignition key to on the fuse for the heater/ac blows. at first the turn signal stopped working when the heater /ac fuse blew. I replaced the fuse. the turn signal and heater worked for 2 days then the fuse blew. I removed the fuse for the heater/ac and the turn signal would work for a day or 2 then stop then work again. now when I turn the ignition on the ac/ heater fuse blows immediately. the fuse blows when the heater/ac controls are off. I down loaded a fuse box diagram from wjjeep.com/fuses and it states that fuse # 20 10amp controls ignition run/ heater/ac,/left and right turn signal sense and heated seats. I do not have heated seats. what is ignition run and left and right turn signal sense? could one of these circuits be the one that is blowing the fuse? I disconnected the ac compressor and inside the engine I removed the 15amp fuse and a relay for the ac clutch and a 40 amp fuse for the blower motor the fuse still blows when I turn on the ignition with all heater controls off. what fuse controls the turn signal. I hope you can help me with this problem
  • uncfuzuncfuz Member Posts: 5
    I checked for a vacuum leak. Found one hose that wasnt holding vacuum. Was leaking out t connectors. Repaired the line and still made no difference. This year jeep doesnt have an egr valve on the 6 cylinder so couldnt replace that. Dis replace the coolant temp sensor still no difference.
  • uncfuzuncfuz Member Posts: 5
    Changed the relays and did not solve the problem.
  • uncfuzuncfuz Member Posts: 5
    Finally got the car running. Had plenty of suggestions everything from vacuum leaks relays fuel pumps sensor to the main brain. I appreciate all the help and suggestions. I did finally give up cause was not going to keep buying this and that only to find out it wasnt the cause. Even though hate letting someone else fix my cars had it towed away. They claim they replaced the coil, plugs and cleaned gunk out of the throttle body. They confirmed that yes there was spark present but said it was too weak and not able to ignite the fuel. I always thought spark was spark but guess if its not strong enough it wont work. So learned something new. Thanks for all the help.
  • ihatemyjeep1ihatemyjeep1 Member Posts: 3
    edited October 2010
    Let me first start off by saying that I know absolutely NOTHING about cars. Now to my problem... I parked my Jeep in the driveway after work one day, then I had a day off, then I went to start it up and the darn thing was dead. It wasn't making any noise whatsoever. So I took it to Monroe and they put in a new starter and did an oil change for $288. (I know that seems high, but that's what Jeep said it would cost too. I did it at Monroe because it had to be towed and they were closer...) Anyway, no big surprise, but that didn't work. It was at least making noise after that though, so I figured it helped. Next, I sucked it up and towed it to Jeep. Jeep replaced the CAM Sensor and the CAM Drive for $650. (They quoted me $650 and then tried to charge me $695 when I went to pick it up, then when I complained the parts were magically less money and the computer screwed up. Bastards.) I don't know what those parts are or what they do, but the car at least drives now. The car needs to be inspected this month too, and the service writer at the dealership told me I needed to drive it 100-150 miles before it would pass the inspection (something about failing for readiness??) Anyway, I took it to work two days in a row and on the 2nd day the check engine light came on. The car is loud and it feels like it's driving rough. The only way to describe it is that it sounds like it's sputtering almost and it feels like it's having a heck of a time running -- like it's going to die at any minute. :sick: I don't have anymore money to blow on this car, and Jeep told me to bring it in again, but I'd have to pay another $95 diagnostic fee if they run the codes and it's not related to the Cam Sensor or the Cam Drive. I'm really hesitant to take it in if I'm going to have to pay again because I'm beyond over budget this month.

    **Edit** After a bit of searching on the internet I found how to get to the OBD system. I did what they said (turn it on turn it off 4 times) and the code was P0138. I googled that and it said O2 Sensor. The car hasn't really been driven (except going to work the last 2 days) in over a month -- could it be the gas? Should I try throwing in a bottle of fuel injector cleaner (a suggestion from a website) and seeing if that solves the problem? Will the light turn off on its own if that's it or will I have to disconnect the battery? How long would I have to drive it to know if that works?
  • stumpy6stumpy6 Member Posts: 1
    I am attempting to replace the blender door on my 2002 jeep grand Cherokee. What is the easiest way to get to the blender door on the drivers side?
  • rknightonrknighton Member Posts: 1
    I had the same deal. Looked everywhere I could for a solution. Went to Rock Auto and bought new l & r headlight assemblies for $15 each. Even came with bulbs. Just a good tug and out they come. Give them a firm press back in and there good as new. 2 years later still crisp and clear.
  • ihatemyjeep1ihatemyjeep1 Member Posts: 3
    I just wanted to share an update with everyone. I disconnected the battery and reconnected it to reset the check engine light. Then I put a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank (it was half full, I used the STP stuff in the black bottle) and let it run through. So far so good.
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    great price for headlight lenses! you got a website?-cause a friend just got a -86 subie gl wagon,and both headlights are about as bad as ive ever seen!
    or,is this"rock auto" a store,or boneyard? any help would be GREATLY appreciated.. :)
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    my gues is your drive to work is less than twenty minutes,and you use cheap gas..
    STOP IT!!
    i've got a -98 gcl,with a 5.2-v8,and i run PREMIUM-MARATHON gas,
    they put the injector cleaner in at the pump
    it starts better in th winter,and don't have injector problems..
    it gets 17 mpg-at best,but gets worse when i "cheap out"and try th cheap stuff
    with gas at 3-headin for 4 per gal,the twenty cents per diffrence ain't worth it..
    -cause u end up spending it on repairs and tuneups..
    -u need to "clean it out"..if u can find it-a tank of "turbo blue-at $6-+ per,and take it out for a LONG-HARD drive-includin some good "kicks in th butt"-ta clean it out,after it's good and hot(operating temp),it's cheaper than a new catylitic converter-o2 sensor,muffler,etc..the stuff that "plugs up" when you baby your car..short trips are worse on a car-in the long run-than anything! it's a jeep! treat it like one!..it's like having a race horse,and never letting it run!?!..have fun with it,and it'll probably run better.. :shades:
  • ellachellach Member Posts: 8
    In cold weather My 2003 JGC 2.7 diesel automatic shows the engine warning light and goes into limp mode, this used to clear after a mile or so and would then run all day, It has now gone into this mode all the time and will not come out of limp mode. Any ideas Thanks
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    my -98 GCL,5.2 is starting to show its age.. from the alarm going off-in th middle of th night-for no reason-other than th morning dew,to now-the battery is dead in th mornin??!...after coming out to one-completely drained-battery,i put in a fresh one..
    iand today,well,this will be the third time!-and it ain't even cold yet!
    anyone out there found what drains th battery?-maybe what fuse to pull with all the superfulus electrical stuff on this thing,i could live without th trip comp,but would hate to give up th cruise control..
    --already disabled th under hood light,(them mercury switches and inclined driveways)
    so,any ideas??thanks! :lemon:
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    edited November 2010
    I had this exact problem. Excessive off current drain. You need an ammeter that will measure at least 10A down to 10mA. First, remove bulb mounted in the hood, otherwise it will interfere with measurements. Make sure all doors closed. Connect ammeter to battery with long wires. Meter is connected in series with battery cable so you have to remove cable. Gently close hood making sure wires don't get yanked or pinched. Open a door. You should see 3 or 4 or 5 amps due to interior lights. Close door. When lights go out, current should drop to 200-300 mA. Eventually, it may take minutes, the current should drop much lower like 40 mA when the body control module goes to sleep. If it doesn't, then something is keeping the BCM awake. In my case it was a switch on the liftgate window. Can't remember details, but I remember it was a press fit and came loose. If you can't fix it, try cutting the wire or shorting them. Can't remember if it is normally open or normally closed.. BCM has many inputs so it could be something else. If you don't observe this scenario, something other than the BCM may be the problem. After making a fix, repeat test. You will see when you have it fixied.

    DO NOT START CAR WITH AMMETER CONNECTED. CURRENT WILL BLOW IT AND IT MAY CATCH ON FIRE.
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    sounds like that could be it..,and why the alarm keeps trippin..
    wonder if i could just pull th fuse to th body module? th alarm is more a annoyance than a sorely needed thing where i live,plus,it's not like anyones got th hots for a 12 yr old-12 mpg beast!
  • 07_mopar07_mopar Member Posts: 1
    Hello i have a 2007 grandcherokee and i am having issues with the hinges also i have placed a call into chrysler about the problem mine only has 58, on it and the passenger side metal cracked with rust on the inside of the metal and they did noothing to help and now the drivers side hast started doing the same thing so i called again
  • sparticus220sparticus220 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, i thought the same thing that i had to buy new headlights also. turns out that its only oxidation on the front. go get some sand paper starting at 320 go up to 2000 then buff it with plastic polish. they will look brand new i promise you. My girlfriend has this jeep and ive done it twice. better than buying two new headlights.
    Good luck
  • wpatterswpatters Member Posts: 54
    I can't seem to located the auto light relay. When the headlight switch is in the Auto position I can hear the relay click and the dash lights and running lights turn on but not the headlights. The headlights work just fine in manual mode.
    I know the relay is located behind the the Glove box but not sure which one it is since there is no markings telling me. I figure since the relay activates and the dash lights come on etc.. The problem is the relay. Just need to know which one.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    I'm sure sanding them improved them, but just let me say the improvement with new ones was sensational. I bought them on ebay for about $35 each. I also replaced the grill for about $70. If your bumper is not cracked, dented or chipped, it makes the front look almost brand new.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    You will need the Jeep shop manual. You might be able to buy one on the web. Another option is look at subscribing to alldatadiy.com. I think you can get a free trial description to get started.
  • ephjeeperephjeeper Member Posts: 2
    I also have buffed quite a few headlights, and with great results. I used wet sanding with 400, 600, 1000 and 2000 grits, drying and inspecting each time. Some of the crusty stuff really takes some patience. I used auto body buffing compound and a professional poilsher. They look perfect!! :blush:
  • etomorietomori Member Posts: 11
    Here is a "quick and dirty" method to temporarily get rid of scratched headlight lenses --- wipe them with a shop rag dampened with WD 40. It will last about 2-3 weeks before reapplying.
  • jpavejpave Member Posts: 1
    The battery is being drawn down. In the fuse panel located inside and down by the feet of the passenger. If I pull fuse #7 (yellow 20 amp) I get a pulsing draw when i have a test light in between the negative post of the battery and the negative cable. Then while that fuse is still out and I pull out Fuse # 20 (Blue 15 amp) the test light goes completely out. According to the owners manual Fuse #7 has a description of "Instrument Cluster, Body Controller, Vehicle Theft Arming Light, Automatic Headlights, Diagnostics Connector, Radio Amplifier" Fuse #20 has a description of "Radio, Automatic Temperature Control, Vehicle Information Center/Graphic Display Module".
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles