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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mikeyp53mikeyp53 Member Posts: 55
    The vacuum leak added more air to the engine creating a leaner air-fuel ratio. Result is better mileage but poor emissions. The rough idle was caused by the computer trying to adjust the emissions and not finding a setting, so it was doing a cha cha. I did the same thing on purpose to get mine to pass NJ emissions. Pulled a pair of vacuum lines for normal running and hooked them up to pass inspection.
  • squirl033squirl033 Member Posts: 3
    that's a little like what i thought, but i never had any trouble getting it through emissions (though a leaner mixture usually helps). is there a way a shop or dealer can reprogram the computer to obtain better mileage? or do i just need to create an "artificial" vacuum leak to get that mileage again?
  • mikeyp53mikeyp53 Member Posts: 55
    A shop may or may not do it since it may be a violation. You can always ask. My inclination would be to pull a vacuum line again and try that for a while and see how the mileage and performance changes.
  • stevemarcellisstevemarcellis Member Posts: 1
    Hello, first let me thank you for a place to ask a question. I have a 1996 Jeep Cherokee Country. I need some good advice because money is an issue, after just replacing a heater core and battery.

    It has been sluggish to turn over, I thought perhaps because it was cold out.
    I had my battery and alternator checked today. The Alternator was charging, but I had to replace the battery. It was old, so I thought nothing of it.

    I started it tonight, and turned on the heat. When I am parked using heat it made the battery gauge drop a bit, while still parked I turned on defrost and it really dropped down to a little above 9. So I shut off the defrost, and drove- while driving I tried it again. It drops slightly below 14. Sometimes when i turn on defrost belt seems to squeak- if this matters. What is causing this? Is it safe? Any ideas?
  • mikeyp53mikeyp53 Member Posts: 55
    A couple of ideas that may help, first of all if its cold and its sluggish to start, have you got the correct weight oil in the crankcase. That car is designed for 5W-20 oil. Oil gets thick when cold and will cause difficult starting. I have a 2011 Chrsler 200 and when it was 5 below zero, it was sluggish to start too. As far as the voltage drop, could be a few simple things. Are your battery connections clean and tight? They put in a new battery so was it done propely so that everything is tight? How are the battery cables? Any corrosion under the insulators will cause a draw. If it drops voltage with the heater on, could be a bad heater blower motor or you just need to oil the fan bearings. That sqeal you hear may be the fan bearings. Not unusual for that year of car to need a heater fan blower replaced. Hope this helps. None of these fixes are expensive.
  • strokeoluck2strokeoluck2 Member Posts: 91
    Is anyone else having problems with rear struts (shocks?) on 2011 JGC? A few weeks ago mine started "squeaking" when going over bumps. Took it in to shop and they replaced them under warranty. Literally a week or so later I'm starting to hear a whisper of the same sound coming from the rear - the same way it started last time. I'm still under warranty, so it's more of the hassle factor at this point. But wondering if I'm the only one???
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    when you use defrost the ac comes on loose belt will cause squeal and low voltage
  • larrys8larrys8 Member Posts: 36
    I am not sure this is the best place to post, but worth a try

    we have a 2012 jeep grand Cherokee with a panoramic moon roof. I never thought about this before buying, but we use a soft roof top cargo carrier attached to the cross-bars. Its not loaded with heavy stuff, just beach towels and duffel bags with clothes. I am not sure I am comfortable with it sitting on the back part of the moon roof. Dealership doesn’t think it will be a problem.

    Does anyone have any thoughts or experience with this?
  • mikeyp53mikeyp53 Member Posts: 55
    I would never own a car with a moonroof again. They all leak eventually. As far as the panoramic one, remember GM had these on the trailblazer and Envoy and they were a nightmare. I would be very careful how you attach your cargo carrier. If it shifts, the roof is toast. I question some people's car buying judgement. No offense but this may be a bad option in a year or two. Ever think resale value if they get a bad rap?
  • animal2animal2 Member Posts: 11
    I have the same jeep with the panaramic roof while I dont anticipate problems if I were to utilize the roof rack I would purchase the rails sold by jeep as an accessory. Better safe than sorry
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    edited February 2012
    check your serpentine belt..my-98 did some stupid things just like you describe-including the cold start problem..checked th alternator,was fine,as was th battery..got to looking at the belt-cause i got a "belt squeal" when wet-rain.. when i pulled the old belt off,the tentioner was nearly all the way out,and the new belt was tricky to get on by myself,but-i'm a big boy,and now the lights don't go bright and dim at idle.. for the $40 A GOOD BELT COST,I THIMK I FIXED IT.. GOOD LUCK!
    --also,the guy who suggested the kerosene for your crankcase (5w30) i will NEVER put that carp in my engine!! see,i need my engine to last past the warranty.. it's currently sitting on 150k,and no rattles ...yet!!
  • hill2824hill2824 Member Posts: 2
    Your gonna say the same thing I said when I read it: I already checked the fuse. But when I checked my number 8 fuse, the problem was fixed. For the first time in a year I can open the door and listen to the radio at the same time...

    #12 of 19 Re: 95 Jeep Problem Electrical [ancobaca] by mark512
    May 24, 2011 (6:11 am)

    Replying to: ancobaca (Apr 03, 2009 8:48 am)

    Check fuse #8! (I'm pretty sure it was #8--it was definitely a 15 amp fuse.)

    I had a very similar problem with a 95 Grand Cherokee. It all started when turning off an overhead light. A relay near the passenger's feet was clicking rapidly when a door was open; radio worked intermittently; an aftermarket CD changer didn't work; info display in front of gear shift didn't work; interior lights blinked dimly, even when they should have been off; power door locks didn't work. The car drove fine, but the electrical system was going crazy. It turned out that this was all caused by one blown fuse.

    Good luck!
  • tywebb1973tywebb1973 Member Posts: 115
    All of a sudden today, my EVIC is acting strange. Normally, when you hit the Select button (the arrow pointing to the right), you get taken to a list of options - settings, fuel economy, average speed, tire pressure, etc. Then you would select what option you wanted.

    Now, when I hit that button it skips the list and takes me right to the Fuel economy screen. I can't get back to the list of options like to reset some of the driver settings. No matter what I do, I can't get back to the list. When I hit the back button, it goes back to the standard blank information screen.

    It's really annoying. Someone suggested resetting the electronics cluster by doing something (there is a button in the battery case in the engine compartment?). But that seems excessive.

    Any suggestions?
  • mikeyp53mikeyp53 Member Posts: 55
    Its a new car. Take it back to the dealer! Can you say warranty?
  • jeepjoshjeepjosh Member Posts: 1
    Hey,

    I recently bought a really tidy 2008 Auto limited cherokee and absolutely love it. Im still getting used to many of it features and capabilities.
    One small problem I live in australia and do quite alot of beach driving getting to surf spots and the other day my transmission high temp light lit up.. I read the manual and figured that it was becasue on the sand i wasnt getting enough purchase and the transmission was working hard to select the right gear. Im just wondering if it was becasue it was nearly 40 degree celsius (which equates to 110F) and because i was going pretty hard or do I need another cooler on the transmission. I resolved the problem by putting her into 1st and creeping home.

    Thanks heaps guys and look forward to hearing back

    Proud Jeep owner Josh
  • offroadpepoffroadpep Member Posts: 11
    In soft sand try putting your Transfer Case into Low 4. Will take some load off your Transmission and Torque Converter. Should run cooler that way but slower (Lot lower gear). May also help to turn off the Overdrive, put it in Tow-Haul mode. If it has the Tow Package it should allready have a good heavy duty Tramsmission Cooler on it ? Best of Luck. "PEP" :>)
  • hockeyattitudehockeyattitude Member Posts: 1
    Replaced the PCM on my 1999 GC with the 4.7L and now it will not start. It started and ran rough prior to swapping the PCM, now it just tries to turn over, but won't.

    I purchased the rebuilt PCM from Auto Computer Exchange who programmed the new PCM based on my VIN. I disconnected the battery before I performed the procedure. I have checked and rechecked all the connections and everything seems to be in order.

    Is anyone aware of anything that needs to be done after replacing the PCM that I may be missing?
  • jpp75jpp75 Member Posts: 1,535
    My 2011 Overland has a similar problem, on occasion hitting the back button take me to the Tire Pressure screen regardless of where I started from. The dealer can't replicate it, so they can't fix it. I've had others suggest that disconnecting the battery every month or so helps reboot the system and rids it of these numerous gremlins that pop up from time to time. That's not an acceptable answer to me, but I haven't found anything better. I love the vehicle but so glad I leased it, I can't imagine owning this quality nightmare outside the warranty period.
  • bd_bhbd_bh Member Posts: 1
    I have a 06 overland with 106k miles with just under 4k miles on extended warrenty. We just drove 1000 miles down to florida and two days after our arrival we began experiancing a shutter when steering while the car is cold. This happens when backing out of our parking spot or low speed turns. The further I turn the wheel the worst it gets. After its is warmed up the shutter stops. We took it to a local dealership and they are trying to tell us that it is because the differentials and transfer case needs servicing for a cost of $450. I fail to see how this could be the issue since it does not occur unless the wheels are turned.

    Any ideas would be welcome as we are about to make a return trip of 1000 miles in a few days and I don't want to get stranded in the middle of nowhere on 95.
  • cat43cat43 Member Posts: 1
    JUST LOOKING FOR SOME ADVICE.....1999 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE JUST HAD NEW MOTOR PUT IN IT AND NOW I THINK ITS SOMETHING WITH TRANSMISSION...WHILE DRIVING ITS AS IF SOMEONE STEPS ON THE BRAKES THE WHOLE CAR JERKS.....SCARRRYYY
  • animal2animal2 Member Posts: 11
    it sounds more like a warped brake rotor,,,,,,,,,,,, have the front rotors turned or replaced and it should solve the problem
  • mikeyp53mikeyp53 Member Posts: 55
    If it happens when you step on the brakes, its probably warped front brake rotors, very common. If it doesn't happen when you step on the brakes, its probably an engine motor mount since you just had engine replaced.
  • pjga24pjga24 Member Posts: 1
    I was wondering why the horn went off while the jeep was in my driveway not running. I had to pull the fuse to make it stop. I just bought the jeep it is a 1999.
  • wpatterswpatters Member Posts: 54
    I have seen this with my neighbors car. There is a hood switch along the edge of the hood that sometimes is broken or right on the edge of switching and the slightest jar will set it off. You did not say if the horn was on solid or going off and on like a security breach.
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    my -98's alarm would go off in the middle of the night,also the battery would drain for no aparent reason..
    --on a suggestion from this verry board,i disconnected the sensor for the back window-aparently,this sensor was glued on during assembly,and after twenty-some years,the glue breaks down..have seen more than my jeep do this,and i try to tell them what i did..nothing more aggrevating than be shopping,and your truck is screaming in the parking lot..
    after i unplugged that sensor,i've had three years without trouble!! :shades:
  • strokeoluck2strokeoluck2 Member Posts: 91
    Two issues/questions on my 2011 JGC:

    1) Does anyone else have a "squeaking" driver's seat? My JGC has 20,000 (easy) miles on it, and it makes little, but noticeable, squeaks or creaking noises whenever I take a corner or adjust in the seat. Frankly it sounds like poor workmanship, but I don't really see a "bolt" or anything to easily tighten that would solve the problem. We have a 2008 Honda Pilot with 100,000 (harder) miles on it, and no squeaks in the seats; same with my previous vehicle - an '05 Acura TL with ~85,000 miles. I'm scratching my head over this problem. It's still under warranty, but I don't see how the dealer is going to fix this; and even if they replace the seat, my hunch is Jeep will replace it with one of equal quality.

    2) The Goodyear Fortera's are HORRIBLE in heavy rain - I mean HORRIBLE!!! It's a little better in snow, but still pales in comparison to our Honda Pilot. I've never experienced anything like it. For now I'm chalking it up to the tires, and not blaming Jeep (though I've shared my concern with their corporate office). What happens during heavy rains is that when I hit any sort of pooled water in the road (and we're not talking Noah's Ark type of water...we're talking a minor low spot in the road that accumulates maybe 1" or so of water), the Jeep pulls hard to the side of the road with the water. And I'm talking HARD. When I first encountered this my son and I were driving back from up north towing our boat behind us, in a rain storm (again, heavy rain, but not biblical proportions). We hit a puddle in the highway going ~55 mph and I thought the wheel was ripped out of my hands it cranked so hard and so fast. No other vehicles in front of us reacted like ours, and I watched the headlights behind us for quite a while, and no other vehicles reacted the same way. Has anyone else had any issues with these Fortera's? If so, what did you switch to, and what's working well for tires?

    Thanks.
  • strokeoluck2strokeoluck2 Member Posts: 91
    "I would never own a car with a moonroof again. They all leak eventually."

    Everyone's experience may differ. I've had several vehicles with moonroofs, and all had >100,000 miles - never had an issue with them. And this isn't including my 1979 Ford Pinto with a sunroof - never had a problem with that thing either!
  • dragon5126dragon5126 Member Posts: 15
    It's not likely the issue is the fuel pump BUT one that CAN affect the pump. What you need to do is NOT fun but is necessary. Get a hold of a good service book, factory, chiltons,haynes or similar, and follow the instructions to drop the fuel tank. Completely disconnect it and pull it out. Hopefully it's a poly tank and not metal. Pull the pump and sending unit and Flush the tank with a good WATER BASED degreaser, and rinse with HOT WATER and then FLUSH with SEVERAL GALLONS OF ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL to remove any water that is left in the tank. Dump the alcohol and let the tank dry completely. It isnt fun btu from the sounds of thing you have got dirt in your tank that is causing problems. No telling from where, bad fuel to bad vandals in the neighborhood. Meanwhile, you need to ensure your fuel pumpis flushed... run the same water based degreaser in a five gallon pail and submerge the fuel pump just like it would be in the tank and apply power to it with a makeshift outlet hose to clean it out pump as much of the degereaser through it as you can, repeat with clear hot water to rinse and then CAREFULLY fill the pump with alcohol to displace any residual water... Next flush your fuel line from the tank side to the filter (leave the filter out and the line open) to clean the tank side of the fuel line. Replace the filter. Reinstall the pump and sending unit in the DRY tank, and reinstall the tank. NOW add a few gallons of E85 fuel ONLY, and start the engine, do NOT put it under a load, the E85 is mostly alcohol and is only there to ensure any left over water or degreaser does not cause problems. when the engine has been running for a handful of minutes, add 5 gallons of high quality gasoline, and drive to a REPUTEABLE station and fill it up as you normally would, avoid any stations you may have used in the past unless the reputation is high. Like I stated earlier, you either had contaminants put directly into your tank or they came in the fuel you used. A third un noted possibility is if you have a metal tank, it is about to rust through.
  • 04wj_jeep04wj_jeep Member Posts: 1
    Great info mrspanky user.

    I have an 04 WJ as well, the AC has been giving me some work lately.
    In relation to the Fan Relay, mine is not located under the passenger's side headlight, mine is a 2WD standard package. I did see the 2 relays near the battery, but decided not to touch them, instead I hot wired the fan.
    The fan was not spinning (mine has a 3 pin connector as well), so I decided to take out the fan completely and buy a replacement (either fan or motor only). Once out I hot wired the motor only, to my surprised it spinned.
    So I disassembled the motor entirely, notice you need to be careful putting it back together. The purpose was to clean it from the inside, I assembled it again and tested it, I was again surprised by an annoying noise from the motor on both speeds (yes the 3 pin connector means 2 speeds).
    So I unassembled the motor again (fan motor, is the only motor I am making reference to), and found out one of the inside field poles (lets call them poles) was positioned incorrectly. I put clean it all over again, I used some wd40 to make the moving parts move smooth, and I also notice the poles are a little worn (2 of them, there are 4), so I am guessing the motor is about to fail.

    Continuing, I assembled the motor, and tested it, worked fine.
    Put it inside the fan shroud, tested it, worked fine.
    Assembled the fan, tested it again, worked fine.
    Assembled the entire fan in the jeep, plug it in, and worked fine.
    So I installed only 3 screws, that last one everyone hates to take out can screw itself, because I am not going to...
    why? something tells me is going to happen again, the fain will fail, I think is dying.
    So, the fan is working ok right now, the AC is engaging normally, and the temperature is staying below the 210 degrees mark.

    cost. $0, just a little scratch on my right hand finger.

    However, I did change the oil, air filter, and thermostat.
    Thinking the thermostat was the reason. I must tell you, I used the commercial kind before, the temperature was reaching a little over 210 before it cool down. This time I went Mopar only (both thermostat and gasket), and spot on.. 195 degrees,and it kicks in.
    I also got spark plugs while at the dealer (I got a straight 6, so that's the next project, the advantage about the Mopar plugs, they are already calibrated to the WJ specs).
    Thermostat, gasket, and 6 plugs, about $60
    Oil (premium fully synthetic), K&N oil filter, and Fram air filter $55.

    Next weekend, flush radiator and change spark plugs.... hopefully only labor.

    Thanks for reading, and happy work out in your jeeps fellas !!!
  • mr_smithmr_smith Member Posts: 22
    edited July 2012
    Help! I have a 2006 JGC Laredo. I need to change the front SIDE marker light. How do I get to it?? I read somewhere else that I have to go under the fender in front of the tire. Is that true or is there another way??
  • kmfdm667kmfdm667 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1995 JGC Laredo 4.0 i noticed i am leaking coolant from the water pump i tracked the leak to the bottom of the water pump where the hose connects but the thing is i had the water pump and thermostat replaced around 3 years ago over the last 2 years i have replaced the bottom hose and radiator is it normal to have to replace a water pump that soon or could it be a bad gasket or should i give the place that replaced a call its not overheating or anything like that yet but i dont want it to get to that point im stumped thanks in advance for your time
  • mikeyp53mikeyp53 Member Posts: 55
    It is not unusual for a water pump to fail in three years but usually the tell tale leak is from the bearing weep hole, not the bottom of the housing. Coolant can travel funny ways. I would suspect its the gasket, if its coming from the bottom of the housing. I replaced the water pump on my 2004 JGC last month for $50. The new (not rebuilt) pump has a lifetime warranty(Advanced Auto Parts), you can buy the gasket separately for less than $10, or goo it up with permatex and reinstall. If you had it replaced at a garage and have your receipt, see what the warranty terms are. My guess is they replaced it with a rebuilt pump which has a one or two year warranty. Good luck, but you are smart to repair it before it fails and overheats and ruins your engine.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    97 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.ol I6: I gave my kid my old jeep to use at college. He is home for summer and I am using it. I worked on it last summer. Replaced water pump, brakes, etc. and all was OK. I am using it this week and it is consuming about a gallon of antifreeze per day. Nothing looks wet. Not a drop of antifreeze on the floor. Very unusual. I fixed a dozen cooling leaks. Engine runs OK. Nothing conspicuous about the exhaust. If head gasket issue, shouldn't I see or feel something. I have had it since 2000 so I know when it's driving OK. I haven't pressure tested it yet. Radiator or radiator cap? Any input welcome. How should I start troubleshooting?
  • kayunikayuni Member Posts: 1
    Hi! My Jeep Grand Cherokee 2003 CRD Diesel Engine No: 1J8G8E8A24Y103891has a hard start for the past 3 weeks. I have realized that when it starts, the diesel mixes with the air. There are bubbles flowing through the pipes. I have cleaned the tank. I have bought new diesel filter. I have replaced most of the seals of the pump in front of the engine. We have been looking through the pipe from the tank to the diesel filter. I cannot see any leakage. . When my car is running, it is smooth and has no problem. The only issue is starting. When we start the engine and it is stationary for a while, the diesel starts flowing backwards. The pipes become empty. PLEASE I need some help. If you have any suggestions what next to try, please write back, Thank you!! Samuel Kayuni, Malawi in Africa.
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    I's it throwing any codes? We never think our kids are gonna not have some fun with it. 100+ mph runs, a total lack of care, and has 10k on the oil he never checks....

    Take the damn thing to the shop before it burns up.
  • jsm9jsm9 Member Posts: 1
    lijeepowner1 did you ever figure out what was wrong with your jeep? I think mine is having similar issues to yours.
  • pole2pole2 Member Posts: 17
    I have code PO705 i know it is Neutral Safety Switch problem. Anybody know where is switch located in Jeep Cherokee 2007 . Or maybe can tel me more about this code. Thank you.
  • chryslergroupchryslergroup Member Posts: 35
    Hello pole2!

    I checked the Service Manual for a failure code P0705 but could not find that code listed. I found a code for P0850-PARK/NEUTRAL SWITCH PERFORMANCE.

    Theory of Operation

    The Park Neutral switch rationality test is enabled only for vehicles equipped with a 4/5 speed automatic transmission. This diagnostic checks if the park/neutral switch is incorrectly stuck in the neutral position during driving conditions by comparing Vehicle Speed, Engine Speed, Throttle Position, and Pressure Ratio to the fail thresholds and by looking at the state of the Park/Neutral Switch. The stuck in drive condition is not explicitly checked as the starter relay does not energize and therefore render the vehicle inoperable.

    This code will set if the PCM detects an incorrect Park/Neutral switch state for a given mode of vehicle operation. Two trip fault. Three good trips to turn off the MIL.

    Possible Causes:

    TRS (T41) SENSE (P/N SENSE) CIRCUIT OPEN
    TRS (T41) SENSE (P/N SENSE) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
    TRANSMISSION RANGE SENSOR
    POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM)

    The transmission solenoid/TRS assembly is internal to the transmission and mounted on the valve body assembly. The solenoid/TRS assembly also contains the Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) and five pressure switches that feed information to the TCM.

    Hope this helps.

    Lisa
    Customer Care
    Chrysler Group LLC
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    edited August 2012
    I replaced the solenoid pack after this code (it was 1 of 3) at Chrysler service.

    The code never reappeared after that, but in all honesty they replaced the PCM and the ECU too so who knows. Thank god I had the warranty.

    I do know that other than that problem the transmission performed admirably until I sold it.
  • linrlinr Member Posts: 14
    i have a 95 jgc 6 cylinder auto. for about 3 years this has happened to me about 3 times. when id go to crank her up, nothing happens. all lights and bells, but thats it. so what i do is take a 2x4 and tap on the starter. then she cranks. does this mean i need a new starter, or what. anyone with any ideas. thanks.
  • wpatterswpatters Member Posts: 54
    You can take apart the starter and clean the bendix solenoid which is what is getting stuck. The solenoid pulls the gears into the fly wheel and also the electrical contacts to make the starter motor activate. In the old days you could adjust the distance it moved as the contacts worn. My experience just like yours worked for awhile but eventually you just buy a new starter. It is only two bolts to undo and unhook the electrical. Easy job for DYI. Just remember to undo the negative battery cable or you will light up!
  • mikeyp53mikeyp53 Member Posts: 55
    It could be the solenoid as wpatters states, or it could be brushes hung up or a dead spot on the armature brush contacts. May just be dirty electrical contacts at the starter. Replacing the starter is probably necessary for a complete cure.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    Converter developed annoying rattle so I have to replace it. Reciprocating saw removed converter, but tubing remains that slips over front exhaust pipe. Looking for ideas. It will be a challenge.

    Jeep shop manual says "heat with torch until red hot and then rotate". There is no way that is going to happen because exhaust pipe has an alignment rivet and that mates to a notch in the converter tube. Had to cut converter. You can only slide the tubing. You can't rotate it to break it loose.

    In addition, converter tube has a crease that mates with exhaust pipe crease, creating a crimp effect.

    After 15 years, converter tubing and pipe are bonded.

    Any suggestions? I hate to replace front exhaust pipe
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    Hey. I may be oversimplifying but.....Can't you just take it to Midas?

    Do most of it DIY, and leave the tough stuff to Midas. They have the tools, the tricks, and the specialized experience/equipment.

    Plus you know so much about the problem that there is no way they can overcharge you. Just pay a half hour labor and parts from the junkyard.

    Maybe $75 and it would all be right as rain.
  • mikeyp53mikeyp53 Member Posts: 55
    Midas does come to mind, however....cut what is bad or not mating properly and purchase a repair section. Slip it over the front exhaust pipe and mate to the new converter with U clamps, just like Midas would do. Its a dirty, frustrating job because you need to know the EXACT length and diameter pipe you need. You can buy bendable repair section depending on your state inspection requirements, if any. Advance or AZ may have a diagram with the data you need. Just my 2 cents.
  • littlet10littlet10 Member Posts: 1
    Yep mine was doing that i just went to a transmission shop . It was a shaft in the transmission that served 2 purposes and it was binding up. Easy fix just bring to reputable tranny shop.

    Hope this helps :sick:
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    edited October 2012
    When I first purchased my '99 GC in 2006 (with 98k), a check engine light would illuminate and I would "loose" 4th gear and 1st gear. Some kind of limp mode I guess.

    Anyway, I had purchased the extended warranty, knowing that the GC had a history of drivetrain ailments. I loved the truck and the dealer really hooked me up.

    For a $200 co-pay and 4 visits the mechanic; he finally found the real issue (he said there were almost 15 things that could have been the source of my truck's problem).

    So, Safford Dodge replaced everything short of a rebuild. The light went off, and I had no issues at all with the trans from then on. I did have to replace the 4 oxygen sensors in 2011 before I sold it :) , but other than that she was dead on reliable. Great Truck.
  • jgstangjgstang Member Posts: 1
    i have a 97 GC and just replaced both rear axles (worn), wheel bearings and seals all brand new, added the right fluid and additive! well it seems to be worse now if not the same ????? noice stays weather on the gas or not ? could i have bad new bearings ?? thanks
  • 1atony1atony Member Posts: 1
    You may also want to jack the back of the jeep up, secure it properly on jack stands and turn the rear wheel by hand to see if you can hear where the noise is coming from.

    For the heck of it, check the rear brakes to make sure they're not dragging and making noise. Hope this helps you out.

    Tony
  • jeepgrand2jeepgrand2 Member Posts: 1
    When i take off from a stop, feels like back tires are lagging or not wanting to turn....
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