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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    edited October 2012
    If it is both back wheels then the problem is in the diff between them. The lubrication/grease needs to be maintained periodically or they will just rust up and jam. Do you have the gearbox in open diff (AWD OR "4 hi").

    When is the last time you have had your 4x4 components maintained? The diffs should be checked at LEAST every 35k.

    Put it in the shop before something breaks. If you can catch it now then you may only have a small bill. However, if one of the diffs breaks you are in for $1500 MINIMUM.
  • srrodrigsrrodrig Member Posts: 1
    I have a re-occurring error code for cam position sensor. I replaced the sensor, but a few months later it came back. I replaced it again, as well as the crank position sensor. A few months have passed and the error has returned. I’ve checked the connections at the PCM and sensor, but the error remains.
    Any idea where to look next?
  • eeasleyeeasley Member Posts: 1
    Not sure where you live, but when my rear end shelled on my 1998 GCL, I found the best place to get service was Pyle Brothers Automotive, Baytown, TX. They will ship part sto you if needed or know who can fix it in your area. They are simply the best differential people in the business.
  • mikeyp53mikeyp53 Member Posts: 55
    Whatever. Used parts are always a risk. If you are happy, great, otherwise, buyer beware.
  • Is it simply mechanical wear? Is the cam in the right position? It has been in service for 14 years.

    If it isn't wear, have you ever replaced the ECM? A new computer solved a similar problem that I had. You can get one for around $200.
  • motormouth4motormouth4 Member Posts: 1
    Samual, I too have have exactly the same problem with my Jeep CRD with the mercedes benz engine. As you say air is leaking into the system from somewhere. I have had all the O rings replaced, a non return valve put on the fuel filter but still I have starting issues when the car is cold.
    What has been done in the interim to keep the car mobile is that a hand primer bulb has been installed inline between the fuel filter and the high pressure pump. In the morning I pump the bulb to pressurise the system and the car starts without problem. I am taking it into the specialists next week to see what the problem is, I suspect that it could be the high pressure pump
    Please let me know what your result was.

    Motormouth
  • rbilleaudrbilleaud Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98 Grand Cherokee Limited, 5.2 and have been trying to track down a problem. The computer is throwing a code that the speed sensor is bad, but I just replaced the BWD sensor and it's still giving me the same error. So I figure it might be the transmission output speed sensor, which actually makes more sense since it seems to be taking a long time to shift from first to second. Can you tell me where this sensor is located?
  • rlipcz01rlipcz01 Member Posts: 11
    replace the crank sensor attached to the trans, not an easy job, drop exhaust, starter, not for the faint at heart/ :shades: dont break it buy mopar replacemnt part not off brand
  • tomclass10tomclass10 Member Posts: 3
    iam trying to replace the u-joint on the front right axle but this u-joint has no clips on the caps. only a solid cap on all four points! im stummped on how to remove.. any help would be greatly appreciated!
  • mikeyp53mikeyp53 Member Posts: 55
    Year? Model? Engine? not a lot of info here to give you advice, and the correct spelling is "axle".
  • tomclass10tomclass10 Member Posts: 3
    edited November 2012
    97 sport with a 4.0...
    ... spelling i know thank you. was a type error, sorry it bothered you!
  • You are not bothering me. You are welcome here.

    You do sound kinda young, and replacing drive axles is dirty, hard work. You have to know what you are doing, and it is easy to break other things trying to get to it, like torn CV boots, broken cotter pins, etc.

    While you are in there you need to inspect the shocks, brakes, and look for oil leaks as well.

    Wear gloves, use a Milwaukee cordless impact wrench, and follow the Chilton's manual at least before you remove a part that you didn't need to.
  • tomclass10tomclass10 Member Posts: 3
    Thank you, i have a few years experience and have replaced u-joints many times along with the knowledge to know what to look for and whats what. With over 30 years of working on my own vehicles (not claiming experience) i have NEVER seen a u-joint without clips to be removed to disassemble. thats all I'm looking for help with. Are they pressed in can i just put axle in a press? or is there a specific tool needed? thank you very much for your reply to my cry for help! ~Tom
  • martinbeemartinbee Member Posts: 1
    how did you fix it?
  • I had an extended warranty. I live in a condo so I no longer have a garage to do major work. Plus, my 99 is a WJ and has the 4.7 V8, which is a different power-train than yours. That's why I can't get specific. Sorry.

    Buying a Chiltons manual is the very best thing you can do. It has step-by-step instructions on repair/replace of every component.
  • mntman53mntman53 Member Posts: 2
    I just did it tonight in like 15 minutes..I first read some articles on ask.com they had no idea???
    I opened hood,took off plastic guard,it was on the left side by battery,could not get my hand in their at all..
    Remove battery for easy access,then use spade screwdriver to release the blue tabs on electrical connection,do it very easy not to damage tabs.
    Simply pull harness from back of bulb,grab the black right angle black plastic part of bulb and twist to the right and pull out.
    Take the new bulb careful not to touch lamp with skin,as the oil in skin will react and bulb will die sooner,push new bulb into same place you took it out and twist to the left,it will lock in.
    Next if you have any silicone lubricant it a good idea to lubricate the connection very sparely so next removal is easy,then press the connection back together.
    replace battery but don't tighten everything up yet,TEST LIGHTS MAKE SURE EVERYTHING IS WORKING AS IT SHOULD!then tighten up batteryleads and clean them if needed,check battery light while your there or water level if that type.replace plastic guard on top.
    Walla your done! I would do the same for lower bulb or the clearance side light.
  • rbilleaudrbilleaud Member Posts: 2
    Somehow my lug nuts came loose on my rear wheel (I think my vengeful neighbor might have had something to do with it). Long story short, they came off while I was driving and I snapped three lugs and screwed up my bearing. Now I have to replace the hub and bearing but can't figure out how to get the hub off the axle. It's a 4WD and there is a circular piece in the center of the hub with two nubs sticking out opposite each other. Looks like I may need a special tool, but have no clue. :confuse:
  • animal2animal2 Member Posts: 11
    the rear hub is part of the axle assembly and not a removable piece. remove the whole axle as a unit and take it to a automotive machine shop to press off and replace the bearing and race.. If you just had your tires replaced on the rear and didn't re-torque the lugs after driving a while that is the usual reason for wheel loss. Look behind the hub for 4 nuts that retain the axle assembly remove them and pull the axle out..
  • wpatterswpatters Member Posts: 54
    I have a 1993 jeep with 6 cyc engine. Just replace the water pump that had a bad bearing...you could hear the noise while driving. Now when I accelerate the engine even if parked I hear a rushing of water sound. Last night it seemed to stop after the heater finally kicked in...I mean after the car got fully hot. Could this be air in the water? If so is there any trick to purging the air out of the water system?

    Thanks
  • mikeyp53mikeyp53 Member Posts: 55
    Yes, it is probably air in the system in the heater heat exchanger in the dashboard area. Run the heater on high temp for a few miles and the bubble will clear itself. Recheck the coolant level in the refill bottle a few times and top off as necessary. DO NOT open the radiator cap on a hot engine.
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    You got a air bubble in them cooiling system.
    the way I got the bubble out of moms olds was to open the way cap when cold. Fill with coolant. Run the engine with the cap off till the level drops.refill and drive again.
    You must. Be careful with straight s :sick: ixes.a air pocket will let the engine warp the head and ruin a good motor
  • bretmbretm Member Posts: 3
    Sounds similar to my problem:

    I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 liter/6 cylinder that has 164 K miles. I've kept it in pretty good shape with tons of new parts over the past 3 years or so, and don't want to part with it. However, lately it's been getting horrible gas mileage (about 10 MPG highway), has been running roughly, and smells bad.

    Finally took it to the dealer after several attempts by my local, independent shop. Dealer said that the car has been dripping oil down onto the ECU wiring harness for so long that the oil corroded the wires and harness plugs/sockets to the point that they are un-repairable. He said this harness is no longer made, and even if I could find one in a junk yard, it would be "pure luck" to be able to use it and have it work.

    His solution? Buy a new car, mine wasn't worth fixing. Would cost several thousand dollars, more than the car is worth.

    Actually, the guy sounded sincere, like he really was trying to save me a ton of money and hassle on a difficult problem that did not have much chance of success.

    But what do YOU think? Can motor oil really corrode wires and sockets, or just gum them up? Can't this thing just be cleaned really good with an electronics degreaser spray?

    Any tips appreciated...
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    Before id spend 40k on a new one,id give it a shot.
  • baron325baron325 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Laredo 4.7. It has been bucking a bit the first few miles, and took it in to the dealership when the CEL came on. I had the CMP and CKP replaced. After 20 miles it started again. Upon taking it back to the dealership they told me there was metal shavings on the cam sensor blocking the signal. Any idea where these shavings could be coming from?
  • tejeeptejeep Member Posts: 1
    My 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee has 56k miles on it. For a couple months, the check engine light has been coming on randomly, staying on for about a week, and then going off. This has happened 3 times so far (at random times, not right after getting gas or an oil change). I took it to a shop and they said a bunch of codes were stored, having to do with the transmission and a cooling system. The ABS light also randomly comes on while driving as well as a message saying "service electric brake system" and they go off about a day later - this issue has been going on for a couple years.
    The jeep seems to run fine, about a month ago I had the rear pinion seal fixed and I still hear a slight humming sound when I accelerate.

    Anyone know what could be causing these lights to come on and go off randomly?
    I will be taking it back to the shop tomorrow afternoon, but wanted to see if this is a commonality in Jeeps or what the issue is that I will be paying for.
  • suziq_62suziq_62 Member Posts: 3
    I've been reading through these post trying to find a problem I'm having with my 98 Grand 5.2 and what I've noticed is that most of the owners on here are new to jeep. These are the two most common problems I've seen. If it wont shift into 3rd its your output speed sensor, left side trans 5 min fix ($20.Autozone). Jeeps are notorious for transmission issues but what you think might be an expensive trans issue can be simple. Reverse lights just stop working its your back up light switch right side trans 5 min fix ($50 dealer part) it can get gummed up try cleaning it first. When that wonderful little red light comes on (CE) there is a problem even if it goes away on its own it will come back and eventually stay on. During this time of intermittent check engine light you are driving your jeep with something broken. It does become normal for your jeep as it gets older to grown, pop, hum, and even gurgle. These sounds are indicating that something is wrong no matter how hard you look you wont find it till its broke. I do suggest when buying your first jeep that you start an emergency fund just for it because you will need it. Now this is not to scare off those who are interested in adding a jeep to the family, I say family because you will learn to love and hate spending time with it. I bought my Jeep brand new and for the first hundred thousand miles it was the best and still is now pushing 300 thousand miles. The saying it's a jeep thing comes from all its oddities cause you can only say them about a jeep. If you can't find how to fix something in a forum search utube there are alot of awesome knowledgeable jeep owners the document all of their jeep fixes for those of us who don't mind getting dirty to save on labor.
  • suziq_62suziq_62 Member Posts: 3
    that's like the worst idea ever. The output speed sensor is located on the left side of the trans right about at the end of the drivers door. You do not have to remove or dismantle anything to get to it. Gently unhook the wires may need a flat screw driver for this. Some of these sensors are plastic so don't go at it like heman if it resists coming out. Trans fluid will come out the opening so have the new one handy to instal DON'T TRY TO TORQUE IT snug is fine, like anything check after some use to see if it needs a bit more tightening
  • fastertools1fastertools1 Member Posts: 1
    Come To find out I figured The problem out For those who need to know the blend doors were not the problem found out the evaporator was clogged up on one side now the ac works on both sides of the vents!!!!!!!!
  • nikki6sdanikki6sda Member Posts: 1
    This is helpful info, suziq_62.

    I'm considering the purchase of '99 Jeep GC Laredo auto w/ appr 178K miles. Got it from a private seller for $1K who has agreed to let me take it to my mechanic for thorough inspection before finalizing the deal. I expected some issues which would need to be addressed, but I may be looking at a bigger-than-expected headache.

    The primary problem I'm concerned w/ is that the brake lights don't come on when I press the brake pedal. HUGE safety concern. Also, the left blinker appears to need the bulb replaced. Other than that, the other indicator lights seem fine - reverse, parking lights, right blinker, all ok...for now. I'm concerned that this is the beginning of more electrical problems, which I know from previous experience can become expensive.

    Guess I'm hoping to hear that these aren't necessarily expensive problems, and that I'm not making a huge mistake.
  • suziq_62suziq_62 Member Posts: 3
    I would check the fuses first for the break light issue jeeps don't usually have wiring issues unless they have sat for a long period of time. The back up lights are the only ones that dont have a fuse you can change. My jeep has 240,000 miles on it and its had issues but mostly just regular maintenance. I have found most everything I need to do to it on utube. Jeeps are expensive to fix at a shop but parts cost arnt to bad if you do it on your own. Rockauto.com has been a huge help for parts at really good discounts. Good luck with your new purchase.
  • tthanhausertthanhauser Member Posts: 1
    OMG thank you ive been trying to disarm my system and couldn't figure it out but this worked and now my car is working Thank God and Thank you for the information
  • bankansbankans Member Posts: 1
    I have the same trouble. It is caused by the transfer case. Usually pretty expensive even from the junk yard.
  • mike20878mike20878 Member Posts: 60

    I went to Advance Auto Parts today to replace some light bulbs. The catalog and my manual say to use bulb type 194 for the front park lights and front side markers (Laredo). But the guy there said if they are behind a clear cover I should be using amber bulbs. It does appear that the original bulbs are amber. But the amber is type 194NA and the manual says those are only for the Limited. Which is correct?

    Thanks.

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