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Comments
When is the last time you have had your 4x4 components maintained? The diffs should be checked at LEAST every 35k.
Put it in the shop before something breaks. If you can catch it now then you may only have a small bill. However, if one of the diffs breaks you are in for $1500 MINIMUM.
Any idea where to look next?
If it isn't wear, have you ever replaced the ECM? A new computer solved a similar problem that I had. You can get one for around $200.
What has been done in the interim to keep the car mobile is that a hand primer bulb has been installed inline between the fuel filter and the high pressure pump. In the morning I pump the bulb to pressurise the system and the car starts without problem. I am taking it into the specialists next week to see what the problem is, I suspect that it could be the high pressure pump
Please let me know what your result was.
Motormouth
... spelling i know thank you. was a type error, sorry it bothered you!
You do sound kinda young, and replacing drive axles is dirty, hard work. You have to know what you are doing, and it is easy to break other things trying to get to it, like torn CV boots, broken cotter pins, etc.
While you are in there you need to inspect the shocks, brakes, and look for oil leaks as well.
Wear gloves, use a Milwaukee cordless impact wrench, and follow the Chilton's manual at least before you remove a part that you didn't need to.
Buying a Chiltons manual is the very best thing you can do. It has step-by-step instructions on repair/replace of every component.
I opened hood,took off plastic guard,it was on the left side by battery,could not get my hand in their at all..
Remove battery for easy access,then use spade screwdriver to release the blue tabs on electrical connection,do it very easy not to damage tabs.
Simply pull harness from back of bulb,grab the black right angle black plastic part of bulb and twist to the right and pull out.
Take the new bulb careful not to touch lamp with skin,as the oil in skin will react and bulb will die sooner,push new bulb into same place you took it out and twist to the left,it will lock in.
Next if you have any silicone lubricant it a good idea to lubricate the connection very sparely so next removal is easy,then press the connection back together.
replace battery but don't tighten everything up yet,TEST LIGHTS MAKE SURE EVERYTHING IS WORKING AS IT SHOULD!then tighten up batteryleads and clean them if needed,check battery light while your there or water level if that type.replace plastic guard on top.
Walla your done! I would do the same for lower bulb or the clearance side light.
Thanks
the way I got the bubble out of moms olds was to open the way cap when cold. Fill with coolant. Run the engine with the cap off till the level drops.refill and drive again.
You must. Be careful with straight s :sick: ixes.a air pocket will let the engine warp the head and ruin a good motor
I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 liter/6 cylinder that has 164 K miles. I've kept it in pretty good shape with tons of new parts over the past 3 years or so, and don't want to part with it. However, lately it's been getting horrible gas mileage (about 10 MPG highway), has been running roughly, and smells bad.
Finally took it to the dealer after several attempts by my local, independent shop. Dealer said that the car has been dripping oil down onto the ECU wiring harness for so long that the oil corroded the wires and harness plugs/sockets to the point that they are un-repairable. He said this harness is no longer made, and even if I could find one in a junk yard, it would be "pure luck" to be able to use it and have it work.
His solution? Buy a new car, mine wasn't worth fixing. Would cost several thousand dollars, more than the car is worth.
Actually, the guy sounded sincere, like he really was trying to save me a ton of money and hassle on a difficult problem that did not have much chance of success.
But what do YOU think? Can motor oil really corrode wires and sockets, or just gum them up? Can't this thing just be cleaned really good with an electronics degreaser spray?
Any tips appreciated...
The jeep seems to run fine, about a month ago I had the rear pinion seal fixed and I still hear a slight humming sound when I accelerate.
Anyone know what could be causing these lights to come on and go off randomly?
I will be taking it back to the shop tomorrow afternoon, but wanted to see if this is a commonality in Jeeps or what the issue is that I will be paying for.
I'm considering the purchase of '99 Jeep GC Laredo auto w/ appr 178K miles. Got it from a private seller for $1K who has agreed to let me take it to my mechanic for thorough inspection before finalizing the deal. I expected some issues which would need to be addressed, but I may be looking at a bigger-than-expected headache.
The primary problem I'm concerned w/ is that the brake lights don't come on when I press the brake pedal. HUGE safety concern. Also, the left blinker appears to need the bulb replaced. Other than that, the other indicator lights seem fine - reverse, parking lights, right blinker, all ok...for now. I'm concerned that this is the beginning of more electrical problems, which I know from previous experience can become expensive.
Guess I'm hoping to hear that these aren't necessarily expensive problems, and that I'm not making a huge mistake.
I went to Advance Auto Parts today to replace some light bulbs. The catalog and my manual say to use bulb type 194 for the front park lights and front side markers (Laredo). But the guy there said if they are behind a clear cover I should be using amber bulbs. It does appear that the original bulbs are amber. But the amber is type 194NA and the manual says those are only for the Limited. Which is correct?
Thanks.