Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I did two things that really helped. I found that the holes for the caliper slide pins were obstructed, causing the caliper to seize to the pins. At 38k miles, I removed the caliper and spun a properly sized drill bit in each slide pin hole. By properly sized, I mean a bit that was sized exactly to the hole diameter at the outside of the caliper. As I spun the drill bit manually, I found that it hung up as I moved the bit through the slide pin hole. It appeared that the original machining left a burr about halfway through. I removed the burr and reinstalled the pins after coating them with a good anti seize compound. New rotors were also installed. I repeated the process on the rear calipers at 60 k miles and added new rotors as well.
I now have 98k miles on my Jeep. The right front rotor warped slightly about 10k miles ago but the Jeep is still very driveable. The rears rotors have not warped at all. Next time around, I'll check the right front caliper for obstruction and repeat the process if necessary.
So instead of 2-5k miles per set of front rotors, I now have 60k on them. The rears have 30k. the pads were replaced on both axles at the mileage indicated.
If you are not mechanically inclined, this job is perhaps not for you. Otherwise, the de burring, pad and rotor replacement took all of 30 minutes per side.
Also check the hoses on the filler neck. The may be loose.
I've read a few other stories about this issue on this site, but has anyone had any success at determining the cause. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
John
First time it happened, I just walked by the Jeep and the lights came on. I opened the door and the keys weren't in the ignition. Then they went off. They came on and went off several times that night, and then stopped. Don't know how many times this has occurred and I never knew it was happening. Then last night my neighbor called to tell me my lights were on. I looked out my window and they weren't on. Later I got another call saying they were still on. Again, I went out to turn them off and they weren't on. Later my son came in and said my lights were on in the Jeep. I looked out and saw them go off. So I switched it from auto to manual and the problem stopped.
Of my search on the internet today, I only found three people who say they've solved the problem. One said it was a short in the wiring behind the break pedal. The other two said they replace the headlight switch and the problem went away. I haven't got around to investigating either solution. Let me know if you do and what you find.
It whistles after about 10mph and you can hear it especially well when you let go of the gas pedal because the engine noise reduces a lot. First when I heard it it would just do it when I start driving it, now I hear it all the time when I roll down the window driving around.
Anyone have a similar problem where you hear a whistlling? It's not a uniform whistle, but sort of goes up and down. Imagine a cricket sound with instead your whistling. IT sounds like it's coming from the bottom..
I don't understand why they can't duplicate. It's retarded. I pay $700/month and this is what I get. Every time I take it in for an oil change, it takes at least a couple of days to get it back. First when I started to have problems with the car (like steering wheel clicking that simply cannot get fixed after a few tries, wheels creaking/crakcing, other annoying noises, etc) I told myself, these aren't powertrain problems so it wouldn't affect how my car runs, but after over a year with such problems, I've had it. I seriously advise people buying from Jeep. As a matter of fact, I will never buy another American gas-guzzler. I will buy a damn Japanese instead. One of more of this Jeep and if more problems occur/persist, I'm going to file an official complaint and use whatever I can to get rid of it at the expense of Chryslter.
At 21,000 miles, my HVAC vac hose went which controlled the cruise control and the blower directional. Just wondered if anyone else has come across this problem?
Pick any vehicle by any manufacturer and then read some of the posts here on Edmunds. You can spend months reading but you will never, repeat never, find a vehicle without problems. Toyota, Nissan, Acura, Honda, no one is immune. Some may "rate" better in reliability reports but a lot of that is subjective. And a lot of those reports do not factor in the severity of problems. There is a big difference, for example, between a Jeep that has a fixable driveline noise and a 4Runner that has a sulfur smell that in so many cases cannot be fixed.
When shopping for a vehicle, buy what you like, buy what is the most comfortable to drive, buy what has the features you like most. There are satisfied owners and there are dissatisfied owners for each and every brand out there.
Bill
Tomorrow they are working on the steering technical bulletin to try in fix the problem you are speaking of.
I am very disappointed!
1. The Drivers heated seat stopped heating. THIS IS THE THIRD TIME IN THREE YEARS this has quit - the last fix was using a new ECd part which was supposed to fix it for good - HA! Granted not a life/death thing but irritating and a concern based on 2002 posts it costs from $1200-1400 to fix if I was paying (trust me, even in MN I would not pay that for a warm tush).
2. The battery has been run down and I have caught both while driving and also while sitting in a dark garage no key in the ignition, the auto headlights coming on for no reason. The dealer says they have to let is sit for a couple days to verify that prior to knowing what to replace, so I do have a loaner at least. Draining batteries (which checked out fine BTW) not a good thing in MN winters.
3. Monday the Engine Malfunction or to most people Check Engine light came on. That was the "icing on the not so nice cake", causing me to hassle with taking the vehicle in for some fixups.
Interesting that when I called the dealer on 1. heated seats, they said that was bad 3 times to fail and to request reimbursement of the $100 Max Care deductible from Jeep customer service. After waiting on hold for 10 mins, I did what the recorded message said to send them the info on their internet address. Now 3 days later I get an email saying I should direct all inquiries by hardcopy letter to them: unless that is some legal requirement that is really nuts (why have an email?!?!).
So any others have heated seat problems happening multiple times? Did you have any luck w/DC reimbursement?
So yes, I do like the Jeep, but have 1 year to go on Max Care and am concerned now. I bought the I6 Selectrac old technology package based on recommended reliability vs the V8 AWD, and so far that seems to be doing fine. It's all the other gotchas like of course the brake problems (which they did seem to fix for me, been running 25K miles OK now knock on wood), seats and other nitty stuff. Hopefully my new 300M will live up to improved reliability, which so far seems much higher than the JGC based on 300M users and consumer reviews plus I have had no problems in 8 months - nice car.
I did get the engine malfunction (check engine) fixed, which turned out to be a bad gas cap! For reference there is a list of these codes on wjjeeps.com - go there to figure out how to spew out codes with the old "ignition on/off" trick I know GM used for years. Luckily this was covered along with the bad heated seat 3rd time replacement for my MaxCare $100 deductible.
BTW, the service manager did not give me any warm fuzzies that jeep.com would return my $100 deductible even though this is a 3rd time defect in < 4 years. He did say they put in a new element in the seat: a $200 part but labor intensive (doable by a skilled do-it yourself person). The alternative is the $1200 seat bottom replacement others have referred to earlier on this forum ... or a cold butt. This is always amazing as 2 heated seats and all the control wiring is a $250 option when new - go figure. I sure hope 3 times is the magic.
Are you sure your whistle is outside? I have one thatcomes in on off load and continues on tick-over for about two minutes then dies away. It won't return on fast tick-overbutdrive it a few miles and its back again.
Fotunately ??? I have tinatus that is inthe same key so it does not bother me as muchas it does my wife. It is pressure bleeding off somewhere, but I can't find it.
The dealer says that this is Normal! Only two months before warranty expires! Any comments would be appreciated!
Thanks, Bill4445
Thanks, Bill4445
just click on my name, and see my experience with my 05 Jeep w/Hemi.
Watch out before it's too late. Make sure that you have even the slightest squeak checked...
I recently test drove a limited w/ hemi and the truck had a distinct whistle that changed with speed. Has anyone else noticed this (presumably wind) related issue?
In regards to the brake issue, they should be perfect. If not, have the dealer fix it. A squishy brake normally means there is air in the system that needs to be bled out.
Move the crossbars so that they are at least 3-4 feet apart and see if the noise diminishes.
Any ideas? Thanks
Steve, Host
I would verify you have a good battery, a good ground to the chassis, and good terminal connections
regards
Any body else know how to fix this?
I am Damaso from Peru. I am planning to buy a Jeep cherokee Country Diesel (1996), but some friends told me that this is not a good car. Is It really?, this model is very bad?
Thank you for your answers