Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

1…1516182021…99

Comments

  • i_like_myjeepi_like_myjeep Member Posts: 2
    Has anyone come up with a solution to remove/clean etc the yellow dinge from the JGC headlight lens covers?

    Story is-- that no UV protection was used on these lens. To replace both is $400. Thus far WD40 seems to work short term. I would appreciate some feedback
  • i_like_myjeepi_like_myjeep Member Posts: 2
    Has anyone come up with a solution to remove/clean etc the yellow dinge from the JGC headlight lens covers?

    Story is, that no UV protection was used on these lens. To replace both is $400. Thus far WD40 seems to work short term. I would appreciate some feedback
  • henshawhenshaw Member Posts: 1
    Hemi engine. A loud rattle banging noise comes & goes,on light or medium acceleration from presumably the exhaust system. have examined underneath, nothing seems loose, could it be loose baffles in muffler? Of coarse it wont do it at dealers service dept!! Anyone else experienced this?
  • aschmidtaschmidt Member Posts: 6
    I have an '01 JGC with 49k miles. Only had it in twice during the warranty (still have one issue, which I'll get to at the end), but in the last 6 months I've spent about $1400 in repairs on it.

     

    1. The driver's side seat heater quite working. The grid had burned up and needed to be replaced. Not a necessity, but had it replaced. That was just over $200.

     

    2. I was out in the yard one evening and my headlights came on and went of by themselves a couple of times while it was parked in the driveway with nobody in it. Found out there was a short in the multifunction switch and it needed to be replaced. Seems to work OK now, but it was just under $200.

     

    3. One day the driver's side window rolled down and wouldn't roll back up. The motor was fine (you could hear it trying to move the window). Turns out a little plastic piece that held the cable broke. Of course you can't replace just that piece, you have to replace the whole assembly. Not really an optional repair. It was a little over $300 for that.

     

    4. All of a sudden, one day I stepped on the brakes and started hearing/feeling a grinding. Took it in immediately and found out that the front calipers were sticking and not releasing. They couldn't say how long it had been going on, but it was apparently happening intermittently for enough time (no symptoms) that it had caused the front brake pads to crystallize. At that point, the only thing stopping the vehicle was the rear brakes. The amount of heat generated by the sticking calipers had also warped the rotors. Had to have the front calipers, rotors, and brake pads replaced. Went ahead and replaced the rear brake pads at that point too. That was about $675.

     

    Up until this point, I was pretty satisfied with my JGC but I am now looking to replace it. I can't afford to own a vehicle that is just barely engineered to make it through the warranty period before it starts to self destruct.

     

    Which brings me back to one problem that the dealer can't seem to pinpoint or fix. Periodically (happens randomly about 3 times a year), when listening to the radio, it will just shut off. The volume goes to zero and the clock goes back 12, but all of the preset stations will still be set. The dealer cannot repeat the problem or find anything wrong with the vehicle. I am now on my 3rd stereo and it still happens. I have just given up on that problem. When it happens, I just turn the radio back up, reset the clock, and go on down the road. Anyone else had this problem?
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    You are lucky in that you can pay cash for a new vehicle that does not depreciate. Either that or the payments on the new car/truck are going to be under $250 a month, right? Because otherwise, I don't see how trading the GC is going to save you any money.
  • ramair02ramair02 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 98 cherokee not a grand that cranks but wont start with the key on the gauges fuel and temp dont read and there is no check engine light the vehicle will not communicate with a scanner i have tried a computer and a ignition swittch any help would be appreciated
  • jeepjjeepj Member Posts: 1
    On colder days when I go over the slightest bump I hear a severe knocking sound. Anybody have any ideas?
  • aschmidtaschmidt Member Posts: 6
    div2,

     

    I'm not sure how you arrived at $250/mo payments as the standard of comparison ($1400/6 mo?). Also, I'm not sure what gave you the impression that I would be paying cash for a new vehicle.

     

    Like most people with a 3 1/2 year old vehicle, I am still making payments (about $455/mo). Trading in the GC would save money is because it is currently out of warranty. I cannot afford to pay another round of $1400 out of pocket for repairs while still making $455/mo payments on it!
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    So you are going to be able to sell it for the same price you paid for it? Cool!
  • dedrunrdedrunr Member Posts: 8
    I need to share this in case someone else experiences these symptoms.

      

    Had 105,000 miles on my '96 when I noticed occasional slippage between 2nd and 3rd while accelerating. Then came the non-engaging of reverse while attempting to back out of my garage and, when it did engage, it did so with a loud slam and a jerk. So I took it to AAMCO, which had done excellent work on previous vehicles, and they informed me that I needed a complete rebuild due to numerous worn components. Right around $2k for a like-new tranny.

      

    Excellent work, and it shifted like a dream for another 5,000 miles until six months later, or just last week early January '05.

      

    Then I started noticing some slight RPM fluctuations while cruising at freeway speeds, kind of like it was trying to downshift for a few microseconds, then stabilizing again. This was on and off for a few days and then it started occuring with increased frequency. I made an appointment to take it to AAMCO and they made an initial dianosis of a malfunctioning speed sensor circuit. They asked me to drop it off the next morning since they were swamped with work.

      

    I drove it for an extra day since they said I couldn't damage anything and that I would just experience the erratic shifting. It got really worse the next day and I thought I'd have to pull onto the freeway shoulder and call home for a ride. At freeway speed it suddenly would shift out of overdrive and I'd find myself doing 65+ mph at 3,000 rpm, then it would pop back into OD whenever it felt like it. At one point I had absolutely no pull and it felt like I had put it into neutral, but I was still in Drive! Fortunately, I made it home with minimal carnage and was able to drive it to the shop.

      

    They spent all day diagnosing and troublshooting the problem and what they found surprised them and me. It was a broken wire on the speed sensor connector cable. It apparently was making minimal contact and sending erratic shift signals, which explains why sometimes it shifted normal and at other times it went ballistic. Any small bump in the road would readjust the broken wire.

      

    So after the fix, it now shifts like a charm, and they had told me the day after I picked up the vehicle that there would be no charge for the work since it was such a simple discrepancy. I felt kind of guilty about not being charged for their labor, so the morning I picked up the Jeep I gave their office two dozen assorted fresh Krispy Kreme donuts. :)

      

    Thanks for reading.

      

    Al
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    As you discovered, some AAMCO do provide outstanding service. The Krispy Kreme strategy is an excellent idea. So many shops only hear from customers when they have a complaint. I'm sure that your shop will be really dilligent the next time you bring the car in for service.
  • aschmidtaschmidt Member Posts: 6
    div2,

     

    In response to:

     

    "So you are going to be able to sell it for the same price you paid for it? Cool!"

     

    If you have nothing of value to add to the thread, please keep the sarcastic/antagonistic comments to yourself. Your feedback does not contain any useful or helpful information, which I believe to be the purpose of this forum.

     

    Your question is asinine. Please refrain from responding to my posts.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Frankly, I don't see what relevant point, if any, div2 is attempting to make but let's all try to make this a little less contentious.

     

    Thanks.

     

    tidester, host
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    I'm sorry I offended some of the more delicate and sensitive souls in this topic, but the point of my somewhat elliptical comments was that you almost never "save" money by trading for a new car. The $250 per month "saved" in repair costs will be more than offset by the additional depreciation and interest expense. Now, If you were to trade a tatty 348 for a Civic the numbers just might work. OTOH, if you consider a car payment to be a perpetual expense I suppose it doesn't matter how you throw your money out the window. The newest vehicle in my fleet is six years old, but all three are paid for and their combined maintenance costs average less than $180 per month. Gotta save my pennies for a nice Speed Triple and a 1980 M1.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    I'm saving my pennies for a Lamborghini Miura - someday! :-)

     

    tidester, host
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    The M1s are hovering around $75K, and don't look to break $100K again for a few more years(crossing fingers). The M1 was originally planned as a joint BMW-Lamborghini project, but the Italians got way behind schedule AND went way over budget-who would have thought?-so Munich brought the whole project in-house. Like you, I LOVE Miuras, but I'm afraid that they will forever remain out of my reach...:(
  • aschmidtaschmidt Member Posts: 6
    I understand the point you were trying to convey. I didn't mean to sound quite so contentious. I agree that you rarely, if ever "save" money when it comes to the purchase of a car. I always start out a car loan with the intention of paying it off, and for one reason or another it hasn't ever worked out that way. Therefor, I am among those who have come to view a car payment as a recurring monthly expense. Maybe some day I'll get to where I actually pay one off... :)
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    "I always start out a car loan with the intention of paying it off, and for one reason or another it hasn't ever worked out that way."

    I've done the same thing too many times, believe me! I just hate to see people repeat my own mistakes. Sorry for the poor way it came across; My wit is often too dry-or totally lacking altogether...
  • dan1166dan1166 Member Posts: 3
    A/C Hiss by dan1166

    I am also new to this forum but share the same problem with my A/C system on my 04 overland. Yes, it will drive you crazy. It took my dealer 1 year to finally realize that there is a problem. You can time it to the second. Mine does it every 28 seconds, with the A/C on. The dealer reported it to Jeep and their response was; If the A/C is cooling, then there is nothing wrong with the system. What a bunch of bull for a $40,000 vehicle. I am sure Jeep Knows what the problem is, but won't repair it. It must be a labor intense fix, or an expensive part. And my dealer agreed, that they all make the same noise. I traded a 01 anniversary edition for the 04, and what a mistake. The 01 never made this noise and the quality level was much better in the 01. Better Leather, better sound system, more walnut burl around the ash tray, and the epitome of all: Plastic Chrome Clad wheel covers. Does Jeep really think people are stupid? My 01 GLC had the real chrome wheels and drove smoother and road better. I was one of those that got stuck with the UP Country suspension. The ride is horrible. I was always a GM buyer, and after I purchased my 2001 GLC, I was hooked on Jeep. However, my opinion has changed since the purchase of the 04 Overland, only because of the position Jeep has taken, to fix the A/C hiss. If anyone else out there is having the same problem, It would be nice to hear from you; especially if you find a fix for the problem.
  • jww1jww1 Member Posts: 3
    need some advice.

      

    I have a 2003 Grand Cherokee, 8 cyl., 2-wheel drive, automative transmission.

      

    The problem I have is that when I go to start the vehicle after it has been sitting for mre than 1-hour, that starter cranks and cranks for about 5-6 seconds, and then the engine finally turns over. If it has been just a few minutes since the car was running (i.e. you went to run an errand, ran into a store, and ran out 10-minutes later), and you start it back up again, it starts immediately, without hesitation. I have had this problem for nearly 3 weeks now. I should also mention that the battery, starter, and alternator have all been tested and checkout perfectly.

      

    The vehicle has 35,000 miles on it, so it is still just barely (36,000 miles) within warranty. I have taken it to the dealership, and they had it for two days and stated that they "could not reproduce the problem". They recommended that I have them do a fuel injector service on it, and so I agreed to that. However, it STILL has the problem, and it is a VERY consistent problem (i.e. there is never a time when the vehicle sits for MORE than 1-hour where I do not encounter this problem). I think it might be a fuel pump or fuel pressure sensor problem, but the "mechanic" stated that the pump pressure was just fine when he tested it.

      

    I need suggestions on what to do/say to the dealership because I am taking it back to them tomorrow.

      

    Thanks!
  • jeep_79jeep_79 Member Posts: 1
    My electric fan broke in my 02 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. In the process it messed up my radiator. Being that I don't make a lot of money I decided to buy the parts and have someone install it. Well, the guy installed it but now when I make left turns or back up it will stall or hesitate for like 5 seconds and then kicked in a forward motion. I don't know anything about cars. Has anyone ever had this problem. I'm not trying to go to the dealership unless I have to because it will cost an arm and a leg and my warranty doesn't cover this. Help!! P.S. the guy who fixed it said to give it a couple of more days??
  • oldman59oldman59 Member Posts: 8
    Here is a toll free number in Cartersville, Georgia--1-877-4 JANVIL or www.janvil.com I use this on the plastic windows on my restored 59 cj/5 works great Dale oldman59
  • ernst565ernst565 Member Posts: 1
    I was looking into buying a JGC for myself. I was wondering if the 2005 are still having problems like the ones before it.

    Sandler
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    They appear to be doing very well so far. This is much needed for Jeep since they had some well documented problems when the last design came out in '99.

    I have not heard of any major problems. There was one guy who had some issue on this board but he seems to have disappeared after complaining for a few days.

    I believe most people have been pretty happy with them.
  • shellyn1shellyn1 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 JGC Ltd and had the transfer case replaced at 45,000 mi for $1350 + labor. There was a bearing chewed up inside. One clue I had was that I kept hearing a ticking noise when I was going slow. Anyway, I believe that there is a TSB on the seal leaking. I also had the Warranty Gold warranty and this problem is how I found out that they were bankrupt. (it couldn't have been on something inexpensive!) Luckily, I immediately contacted Visa and recd my money back for the warranty and purchased a Chyrsler warranty!
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    Though I'm not sure exactly whether or not my particular issue with my 2005 JGC is technically a "problem", I would like to share my experience with the forum just the same.

     

    I purchased my 2005 JGC just before Christmas and noticed that there is an odd hesitation (maybe better defined as "bucking" and "hesitation") when accelerating between 37 mph and 45 mph. To be more specific (and accurate), the problem occurs AFTER the car has shifted into a higher gear and speed is reduced WITHOUT the car shifting back to a lower gear. When accelerating from this point, the problem is most apparent.

     

    I decided to take the car to my dealer after approx. 1,800 miles to have it checked out. The dealer service manager advise that he too experienced what I described, but could not define the issue as a "problem" and that the car was functioning correctly. I disagreed and asked to take the same model (2005 Laredo/v8) for a drive as a basis for comparison.

     

    Much to my surprise, both cars act exactly the same, which in my opinion, is not good. The hesitation is annoying and I constantly find myself accelerating harder to move the car past the hesitation. This too is not a good thing when driving in traffic. Big accelerations to move short distances in traffic is a tricky thing to manage....

     

    Bottom line is this.... the dealer described the issue as "it is what it is" and really had nothing more to offer. In my opinion, what it is, is a big, expensive mistake.

     

    Because I find the problem so annoying and difficult to manage, I will take the financial hit and replace the car with something else.
  • crookstercrookster Member Posts: 40
    I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited with 12000 miles on it. And I have taken it in for brake rotor problems (once), radio problems (once), Heating and A/C problems (3 times). I live in Ny and also my heating has a awful smell when it is on, does anybody know what that is? Can I use the lemon law? Thank You
  • markswalk1markswalk1 Member Posts: 4
    After replacing the alternator and a fairly new battery Jeep still had the same problem of not charging. An auto electric shop diagnosed the pcm as the problem and the price for one is quite expensive. As a fix he suggested we could install an external voltage regulator but he would not provide any help to how I would install it. The voltage regulator is a Transpo 2 plug electronic type. I have read my Hanes book but it was of no help. Any help, suggestions or opinions would be greatly appreciated.
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    salesman, but I want to verify what he said...I am considering 2005/6 JGC purchase in the future, but collecting data now...new design is nice, better than 2004...question about 4WD, and I am also reading the 4WD topic...I want 4WD when I want it not when the car wants it...I do not want AWD, I want to be able to turn 4WD (hi or lo range) on and off when I want it...salesman says that choice is ONLY available on the JGC with the 3.7L V6 engine, both 4.7L and 5.7L engines have an "automatic" 4WD, which engages when it thinks it has to...I want it for occasional snow or slippery areas in Georgia, or occasional (VERY occasional) rough terrain, for the rare occasion I could take it off-road...is it true I can only get this option with a V6, when I would never buy it with less than a V8???...makes me want to check into the 4WD offered on the redesigned 2006 Explorer/Mountaineer to come out in Sept 2005... is the saleman correct???
  • julian2julian2 Member Posts: 1
    Got my 5.7L about two weeks ago. Traded my 2000LTD4.7/Quadradrive in for it.

    Problems - the rear wipers seem to work when they want to - strange....

    Other than that - pure wonderfulness. I get a lot of stares and stuff and sometimes have to put kids in their place - but the hemi makes that painfully easy.....
  • magothymagothy Member Posts: 3
    Yes, my 2005 JGC (3.7 6 cyl, 4WD) has had problems! And, no, it does not buck or hesitate shifting gears, does not whislte at high or low speeds however:
    in the 3 months of ownership it has spent 60% of its time in shops up and down the east coast with the engine light coming on over 9 times.

    It now has new Oxygen censors downstream the catalytic converter, caused to go bad by - the catalytic converter which has now been replaced; new pinion seal which leaked and smelled like burning undercoats used to smell, (but haven't done so in decades and would have lead to loss of gear shifting/steering in the front end), electrical panel for driver side power seat replaced due simply to a small plastic clip that broke and allowed the panel to pop out of the seat and; several of the items mentioned on the Technical Service list.

    The Service Manager of the dealer ship where purchased involved his area District Manager, (DM) who got in touch with "Customer Service" - over my current state of residency DM who along with the local 5 Star Dealer (my experience rates them incompetent for 5 stars). It took persistance, but Chrysler seems to have done right by my 2005 JGC. The UPSHOT was the "Customer Service" towed my car from local dealership 60 miles away to one they considered more competent, who ran the same tests but knew what to do with the results.
    Persist, persist, persist. The 800# in the manual helped on several occasions but in the end for better than band aid surgery, for the final solution they did absolutely nothing - it was the understanding of the folks in the field - above the dealerships and below the manufacturer who worked to solve the problems.
  • 05jeepowner05jeepowner Member Posts: 5
    I bought a 05 laredo,V6, and notice the same thing. It's very slight and it doesn't happen all of the time but when it seems like I'm not giving it enough pedal or I'm barely leaning on the pedal between 35-40 MPH it does it. I also am taking it in this week to investigate the idle noise. It seems like it is coming from the exhaust but whatever it is it seems like it idles loud. Almost like a faint, fast, repetitive knocking sound. Last time I checked, this jeep was supposed to be quieter than the previous years. Has anyone else noticed this?
  • mjday1972mjday1972 Member Posts: 77
    I'm just curious, how many times have you all replaced your front rotors on your 99-04 JGCs? I have 54000 miles on my '99 and am on my 5th set.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    Went 26,000 miles on a '99 Laredo. D/C replaced one set of rotors at about 6,000 and then when the second set warped at 23,000 wanted $100 to turn them. Traded that for a '00 about that time when a good rebate round started. First set of rotors warped at about 15,000 miles. D/C and the 5 Star dealer would not stand behind their product even with doc of the previous problems. I went to Autozone and for less than $100 replaced those rotors. Traded the vehicle at about 66,000 miles with those rotors still working great. Went with GM to get away from D/C since they did not attempt to take care of my problem.

    Of course, the TSB issued later kind of proved my point. You can see some of the details at http://www.wjjeeps.com/tsb_list.htm#0500302b

    Bill
  • janzjanz Member Posts: 129
    I learned awhile back from TSB info on this string and the dealership that the (or at least some) of the rotor problems were due to the calipers not releasing causing excessive heat and warping. The calipers on my '99 were replaced at about 32K and now at 49K I've had no further problems. (I was out of warranty on time, but not mileage. Because I'd had a previous incident of warped rotors, I got the new rotors and calipers, a $750 brake job, for a $50 co-pay subsidized by DC.)

    I'm now driving an '05 as a rental while mine is in the ship getting body work (something I won't go into here). It drives very nice and is extremely quiet, but the seats are as hard as a wooden church pew there are other small details that I don't care for. So far, I like my '99 better.
  • scottyp73scottyp73 Member Posts: 1
    I have this particular problem on my 1999 JGC and the dealer told me to fix it would cost $800! Supposedly my blend air door is not working properly and as a result just outside air with no AC or heat comes out of the passenger side vents. I have not had it fixed yet and the dealer never made reference to the TSB a few months ago while it was in the shop. I have a chrysler 8/80 Certified Added Care Plus warranty and of course it doesn't have blend air doors listed under covered parts. Anyways I wonder if Chrysler would cover it for me since it is now a TSB and I do have a chrysler warranty of some kind. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    If the added warranty lists "heat\ac", you should be covered.
  • ryan909ryan909 Member Posts: 1
    my 1988 jeep cherokee boggs out at 2500 rpms while driving and while in neutral...i have checked the injectors, plugs, 02 sensors, and firing order and they are all ok...so i need to know what else could be wrong...
  • donf1donf1 Member Posts: 4
    We have a 05 JGC only problem so far is the heater blower won't stop when the key is turned off.Realy like JGC. donf
  • donf1donf1 Member Posts: 4
    We have a 05 JGC best brakes ever,yours should be too. donf
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    Vacuum lines? I'd check all of those. They could be cracked on a vehicle that old.
  • jamie3jamie3 Member Posts: 1
    I have a '95 Jeep Grand Cherokee limited and I started getting random coolant leaks from the front of the car and I just put ina new radiator a year ago!? Then my oil started leaking, if it's not one leak it's the other. Now my car overheats about 15 minutes after I start it. I think it may be the water pump. Any advice from anyone that has had similar problems would be greatly appreciated.
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    I would suspect the water pump. If you get underneath the car and look up at the water pump, there is a weep hole towards the engine side. If you're leaking out of the weep hole, you need to replace the pump.
    Oil leaks are probably a deteriorated gasket after 10 years of service.
    I'd also check your hoses. They're cheap to replace and may need replacing with that age vehicle.
  • 2005jeepgc2005jeepgc Member Posts: 1
    I am also having the hesitation problem mentioned by 05jeepowner and joe415. I have a 4x4 Laredo V6. I first noticed an issue when traveling between 25-30 MPH on back hilly roads, the vehicle seemed to 'chug' its way up the big hills on occasion. I assumed this was because it was in 5th gear and am surprised it did not downshift. This has happened about 5 times.

    The hesitation I feel is when driving 30-45 miles per hour constantly and then stepping on the gas. I first feel a hesitation and then the vehicle shifts and accelerates. Sometimes the RPM's go up initially and then pull back down. This is a strange feeling. I am beginning to play a bit with the auto stick (cancelling out 5th gear) to see if I get the same reaction. I plan to bring the vehicle to the dealership this weekend to have them look at it and see if they can tell me what is going on. I'm sure the issue is the 5 speed auto transmission's 4th and 5th gear settings, but I hope there is something that can be done. It is a bit unnerving to give it gas and come up with nothing sometimes.

    If anyone has the same issue, please let it be known so ultimately Jeep will have to fix it (pie in the sky talk maybe).

    Other than that, the vehicle has been outstanding and I have no complaints. I am actually quite happy despite bringing it home and not realizing it did not have a low range. Man this ticked me off! I just assumed it was a Jeep 4x4. Strange that it is not as off road cabable as my 2000 TJ or my old 95 XJ, but it has better on road features (brake traction control). I would do anything to get a low range!!!
  • 05jeepowner05jeepowner Member Posts: 5
    Please post your results from the dealer if possible. Greatly appreciated. The other issue about "Low Range". The Laredo 4X4 does have a low range but it's sensed automatically and shifts when needed. You should get it when it is required and see it on the information center in the instrument cluster. Anyway, good luck at the dealer. I thought mine idled a bit loud but it's been getting better. I went to the dealer to compare the idle with another V-6 and the one on the lot was actually louder. The sound I'm hearing is a faint, rapid knocking sound but like I said, it's been better over the first 700 miles.
  • u2fan4688u2fan4688 Member Posts: 13
    Well after 1 week driving and 700 miles I decided for my own safety to turn the 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo with F Pack back in and/or sell it.

    I am convinced that I simply cannot see out of this Jeep. The rear view mirror is right in my face, its actualy lower than eyelevel. Usually one looks up to the right to see a rear view mirror but the low roof line has it mounted so low its a hug obstrution blocking half the front windshield. I couldn't see folks crossing a crosswalk which is dangerous.. the A pilars are so large my view is totally obstructed on driver and passenger sides. I spend all my time driving, ducking and moving around to see wher the hell I'm going.

    I am 5'9 and had the power seat all the way down. But I have to duck and move around constantly just to change lanes on the highway or navigate a turn. That is dangerous. Driving in a parking lot is a nightmare I simply can't see. If I make a right turn I have to move all over to see and then hope and pray no one is coming from the right. That's bad. Chrysler/Jeep really messed up a good thing.

    I had two other jeeps (1993 and 2000)and drove them to 120k plus miles and didn't have this problem.

    I went to my dealer and told them I am selling it back to them (I hope they will take it back as I await info from the General sales manager).
    While there I sat in a 2003 and had no issues with visibility. Obviously the low roof line and decision to make it a more "low riding" style had the trade off of poor visibility.

    Its gonna be a loss but oh well. I test drove a chevy trailblazer and ford explorer yesterday and didn't have these problems. Looks like I'll be buying one of them.

    I'm sad cause I really like jeeps. :(
    Keith
  • ronc49ronc49 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Grand Cherokee 5.2 V8. After it idles for about 10 minutes it will shut off.When I restart it and give it the gas and hold it steady the RPM`s will start to hunt and then it will shut off. I`ll restart it and the Tac won`t work and then it will stall out. I`ll start it again and none of the instruments will work and the engine will run for a couple of minutes and shut off and then the low fuel light comes on until I turn the ignition off. The tank is half full. I don`t get a check engine light during any of the above. If I wait a couple of hours the same process will start from the begining. I think it is the Powertrain Control Module but I would like to make sure because it is a no return item and expensive.
  • russlarussla Member Posts: 74
    THis could be a couple of things, I'll tell you what solved a similiar idle problem for me.

    I changed my battery, (the battery was old, and on cold days, the PCM must have been getting bad or modulated current)

    Before I changed my battery, I had a discussion with a mech. about the Idle stop solenoid, because when they go bad, they exhibit the same, unwillingness to idle. So I was going to spring for one of those parts, but the battery change fixed the idle problem, and the mysterious gauge malfunction. None have which reoccured since the battery swap.
  • russlarussla Member Posts: 74
    Salesmen are not always the most accurate source of information, I would check anything that a salesperson tells me directly against the brochure they provide you.

    The Jeep 4x4 system that lets you pick what you want, (2wd, 4wdhi, 4x4full time, & 4x4 low) is called the select trac system, and it is in Jeep Libertys. (it used to be the base system in the old 4x4 Grands)But Jeep moved to an electronic switch in 05, and the jeep Select trac isn't electronic. (there was one available in dodges)

    When I look at the jeep web site for 05 Grands, I see only two options. The Fulltime system, Quadra-Trac I (no low range) and the Quadra Trac-II system. (hi and lo)

    While I agree that you may be giving up your choice, The fulltime system combined with traction control, is probably perfect for most drivers that have a Jeep. (most don't go off road, or require a lever to use) you get the benefit, and can forget it's there.

    The QT-II system, has a low range and works a little differently, but the result is the same, the TC helps make sure the wheels with traction have some torque applied to them.

    There is a third system that add's locking diffs to the QT-II system, but that is really for serious off road stuff.

    I'm not familiar with the redesigned Explorer systems, but would ask you to consider your priorities, you may feel there are more important features than how the 4wd is engaged. When comparing the Jeep, to the Explorer.

    Regards
  • abalaskoabalasko Member Posts: 7
    I agree with the bad sight lines. Did your GC have a sun roof? I heard it takes 3 inches off of the interior headroom. I'm 5'10 and I couldn't see out the front window. I was looking right at the sun visor.

    I was really excited about the new 05 GC outside and in from afar. Once I got inside, it was too crammed and had bad sight lines.

    Too bad, as I did like it at first and it is a good deal compared to other SUVs. Now I know why, I guess.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles