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Comments
Mike
My guess would be that Vibe owners were more pleased with the reliability of the Vibe because of lower expectations while Matrix owners were less enthused because they expected more from a Toyota.
Would these problems expect to still be present on the 2005 models?
Bud H
As for volume, it doesn't blow as much as some larger American cars do, so people coming out of bigger cars probably noticed a decrease. If you go test drive on a hot day and crank up the A/C to max, it should be a fair test of how you are going to feel about it if you buy the car.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Thanks
I drove on them all winter (bought the car in November) and they were adequate but hardly sure-footed in the snow. I'm somewhat concerned about this upcoming winter with 15,000+ miles worth of wear.
I didn't even bother test driving an XR...knew I wasn't going the low-power route and the one I bought was the only XRS I'd found in the KC area so I can't really ocmpare the handling differences between the 16's and the 17's. I would expect any difference to be minimal at best. But then, my main daily driver is my 90 Miata so...
I am thinking of trading it in next year for a Toyota Matrix or other vehicle (that I can fit into - I'm 6'3" and head/leg room are issues). I have found that the VSC seems to be the BIG thing I like on the Highlander - that VSC system saved my bacon twice last winter when I started getting into a skid and the VSC almost magically got the car going straight down the road in only a second or two.
So I am starting to get the impression that the AWD feature is important only for getting the vehicle MOVING, and that the ABS and VSC are what keeps the vehicle on the road and stopping when you want it to stop which is WAY more important.
Since I live in a fairly flat area, I therefore have come to the conclusion that I didn't really need AWD after all. And that ABS and VSC are the must have options.
So when looking for a new vehicle in the near future, does it make sense that AWD isn't nearly as important as the ABS and VSC? (It's not that I can't monetarily afford to add the AWD, it's because gas mileage, horsepower, and even gasoline tank size suffer on many AWD models.)
Feel free to comment on the differences in the AWD types that the Highlander and Matrix have if important.
Bud H
The only snow experience I get regularly is ski trips in the winter, and in those situations I have witnessed FWDers with VSC lose all traction and come to a halt, especially on uphill slopes like driveways and such.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
The Matrix and the RAV have seperate systems. We've owned both (still have the Matrix). Both were great for getting us around on ice and snow covered roads. The Rav has the 50/50 split with 25% to each wheel (traction at all wheels is instant). With the Matrix the front wheels drive the vehicle until slippage is sensed. At which time the rear wheels kick in via a viscous coupling (it's a new system for Toyota). From what I can understand the system used in the Highlander is similar to the Rav's.
Contrary to most others, I'm not too crazy with the ABS in similar (ice and snow) conditions. Although you can steer while applied, I found the stopping distances to be longer (this is documented fact). I think that all of the features you mentioned (and others) have their strong and weak points. Depending on your driving style and location some will be more advantageous. To me the most important safety feature in any vehicle is the driver.
Only one was an '05 - all the others had the old-style taillights rather than the silver/clear ones. One had an aftermarket roof rack installed that was like one of those old basket-type designs you might see on Land Rovers from the 70s. Very clunky-looking - it ruined the lines of the car.
:-)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
In 2005, it will appear that I'll be trading out of my Matrix for a 330ci. Had an unforgettable drive in a friend's 330ci recently, and cannot get over it. It is definitely a keeper for me - the Bimmer of course. After being a huge Toyota/Lexus-ophile for years, I'll be buying my first German car, and only the 3-series makes the cut for me. I'll most probably get a fairly used one, and wait to buy the 2006/2007 newly designed LSxxx. The wife wants an LX470 in 2005, so we'll do one for her (LX) and one for me (330ci). That should make both of us quite happy.
Oh, my '03 with 33K miles needs new shoes.... Will get one on soon. Anyone chaning brakes at 33K miles ? I would have expected the brakes to go for 50K miles, but the way I drive the car, I am actually surprised it lasted that long.. Like my Trix, but love the Bimmer more... Nothing against Toyota whatsoever.
Front Brake Pads Approximately 20% Worn
Rear Brake Pads/Shoes Approximately 5% Worn
I like the new front end for '05, but I prefer the old taillights I had on mine. I very much like the change to the Toyota digital clock on the dash inside, as well as to the Toyota stereo. I don't know how it sounds compared to the old one, but it looks nicer and fits the look of the interior better.
If they keep this model around for a second gen and make the 2.4 with the factory supercharger available on the top trim level, I may yet be going back to Matrix in three or four years...
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
herz_: 17K miles and only 20% wear on front brakes of your Trix ? Geez!!! Obviously you don't live in a hilly town like we have here in San Diego. 33K miles is plenty long in-between changing brakes here in SD.
Nippon, the elevation in my town west of Boston ranges from about 150 feet to about 500 feet above sea level. Not flat, but also not like San Francisco. (I don't know how San Diego compares to San Fran.) I never had to have the brakes done on my '94 Corolla wagon, which I drove for 111,000+ miles over 10 years. But that had a standard transmission, and I am told brakes don't last as long with automatics. Even so, I am expecting them to last maybe 55K to 60K.
I think I went around 50,000 K before I replaced them on my VW.. but that was doing DC traffic.
--
Bill
So is there anyone here who is following Toyota's maintenance recommendation not to ever change the auto trans fluid (under normal driving conditions)? That is what I was on the road to doing, before I got impatient with the car and sold it for something new.
oac: Mazda5 will be here in a year - looks like a direct competitor to the Matrix with a sporty mission. Also the Suzuki Reno is here now along with the Spectra5, but I am not yet at the point where I would consider a Kia, or any of the rebadged-Daewoo Suzukis.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I know people who have driven Hondas who got 115,000 miles or more from the original brakes. But again these were standard transmissions.
So what's the damage, I asked ?
New rotors = $106.50 ea (x 2 = $213)
New pads + labor = $179.99
Re-adjust rear brakes = $40
Total = $433 + tax (7.75%)
Can they simply machine the rotors ? No, they told me, they've got to go.
So, how much should I pay for replacing pads and rotors ? And can rotors be machined and re-used? My car has 33K miles....
As a reference, I was quite shocked when my brade pads wore out on my former 02 Mitsubishi Lancer at 27k. However, it was an automatic and driven mostly in city traffic. I drove it around for a week with the wear sensor makin noise at every stop. The pads were very thin, but the brake rotors weren't harmed at all. I replaced the brake pads on both sides in only 30 minutes at a total cost of $60. You might want to consider doing this job yourself if you have any mechanical knowledge. Once the wheels are off, there is only 1 or 2 bolts and a few clips holding the pads in place. It's very easy, plus you get the satisfaction of knowing for sure you weren't screwed out of money and what condition the parts are in down there (such as CV axle boot, ball joints, rotors).
P.S. By the way, I would take issue with them charging $40 to readjust your rear brakes. Drum and disk brakes are both self adjusting. It's preposterous they would try to charge you for something they probably don't even touch. I would definitely tell them to forget about the adjustment.
The first time I heard any noise from the brakes, I figured the wear must be real low. My wife also drove it once and told me same. We then parked the car in the garage where it's been resting for the past 3 months (we had 2 other cars). So I couldn't have damaged the rotors that much (if at all) since we hadn't been driving the car since we noticed the noise. That's why I didn't believe the dealership when they told me the rotors needed to go. Unfortunately, I am not mechanically-inclined (wish it were computer-based which I can do with my eyes closed ), so I'll have to take the car to another shop and see what they tell me.
I avoid them like the plague (good thing I could do my own work on my cars).
I'm looking at a used light blue 2003 Matrix XR, with FWD, leather seats, automatic, cruise, subwoofer in the back (attached to the back of the rear seats), with 14K miles on it. The seller right now is asking 14.3K, but may go down to 13.5K.
Should I go for it? Thanks.
Dean.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
That being said, the Matrix is several years into its current generation so it is likely that all the major and most of the minor issues have been ironed out by now.
My Toyota dealership gave me an estimate of about $450-ish to replace 2 front brake pads, 2 new front rotors, and to "service" the two rear drums.
Turned out when my car was hoisted up and the tires removed, it did not need new rotors afterall. A very slight, barely perceptible notch on the rotors were fixed by machining. Two new front pads, machining the front rotors and the rear drums, were all that were necessary. Cost me less than HALF of what the Toy dealership wanted.
Just glad I didn't get ripped off that badly. The moral to this story is to always get a second opinion before signing on the dotted line for that "repair" job.
Everyone has their own personal opinion about a comfortable "driving position". Sometimes it is suggested that if you are unsure...rent a Matrix for a day and give it a good drive and a good workout. That way, you will know whether or not it is "comfortable for you". Go to the dealer and see if he will rent or "loan" you a Matrix for a day. That is the best way to determine if "YOU' and YOU ALONE" are satisfied. A lot of people in these forums always either rent or obtain a vehicle for a day before they purchase. YOU are the one that has to be satisfied...not someone else.Also check out the Pontiac Vibe forum.Perhaps there will be some info there.
Good Luck
I had mine for long enough to do a couple of 1000-mile trips in it, and I had no problem with the seat or the driving position whatsoever.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
"We'll be extravagant here and assume you can afford a new car. Get the Toyota Matrix, with ABS, a four-cylinder engine, and all-wheel-drive.
If a Massachusetts dealer tells you that package is not available (and at well below $20,000), contact me.
This is a safe, cool-looking, reliable car."
My wife has a 04 Matrix XR which recently having some rattle coming off the dashboard. Seems like the sounds coming from the drive side above the gauges. It gets worse when the weather is cold. We had brought it twice to a local dealer but so far they haven't been able to eliminate it. Does anybody have the same issue and what is the fix?
Thanks.
Hope this helps, as it might pertain to your similar problem and give you something to show your Toyota service dept. mgr.
That's ok, though, 'cuz there ain't no hills with 20 deg incline. 20 degrees is a ski slope.
I find the engine to have plenty of power (base, 5sp) and could see towing a small sailboat or something like that... but at 1000 lbs, things would start to be less fun...
-Mathias
Polite disagreement there. This is my Ram dually in front of my home. My handy protractor says about 15 degrees, and this is after the street has actually levelled slightly. Of course, I live in the mountains, so your mileage may vary
kcram
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