Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
(b) replacement keyless entry remotes
(a) It is possible to get a replacement key outside of the dealers. I found them on-line for $17. I was quoted $59 by the dealer for the key. The key must then be programmed. The dealer quoted me $98 to program the key, however my local mechanic says he can get it done by an auto locksmith for much less.
(b) For the keyless remote- the dealer told me that you cannot get the case on its own, you must buy the complete remote and have it programmed. I was quoted $129 for the remote and $98 to have it programmed. However, I went to a local alarm shop and they quoted me a price of $180 to install a "remote start" system, which would provide two new remotes (though I know they are not Toyota remotes), along with a remote start for the cold morning starts.
You don't have STUPID written across your foehead, the dealer obviously does!
would you tell me how to open hatch?
This car has been rapidly falling apart over the past year (we've had the 4wd system fail, tailgate latch broke twice, tailgate window leak, cd player broke, cassette player broke, antenna motor fail twice, etc etc etc). We are the first and only owners and we have kept up with all regular maintenance, etc.
We will never be buying Toyota again, but we're hoping someone here can help us figure out this latest electrical problem so we don't have to buy a new car right away.
BTW - My 2001 Sequoia has 206,000 miles and still going strong. I havent replaced anything except a PRNDL light (Park, reverse, Neutral.... ) since 120,000 miles.... it just keeps saving me money.
Funny how every time we go to Toyota to have something fixed, something else turns up broken the very next day.
We have had MANY MANY problems with this car, admittedly some were not caused by Toyota, but we are fed up with the quality issues that WERE caused by Toyota (rear door hatch broke twice, power antenna motor broke 3 times, Drive light has been out for 2 years, cheap plastic that scratches when you look at it, etc.).
Bottom line, we will be buying a new car, and it won't be a Toyota. However, until we can afford the new car, we need to repair the exhaust system. We're out of warranty at this point - is their price reasonable? Any reliable chain that should be able to do it for less? Does their diagnosis sound like it makes sense?
I finally found the solution. Here is what I did. Good luck with your vehicle.
One day I was on ebay and noticed a set of rear and front brake calipers for a 2006 Sequoia. I was bored and bid $99.00...damn I won. I figured, OK, I will need a set of good discs to go with them. Again I found a set on ebay...CHEAP. New. Drilled and slotted front and rear.
When I jacked up the Sequoia to work on the brakes, I did the rears first...NO PROBLEMS.
The front was a different matter. I knew the front 2006 calipers were larger, but I did not know that the backing plate on my 2001 would interfere with mounting them. I got my sawzall out and a new metal cutting blade. Chopped about an inch and a half off the corners of the backing plate...top and bottom...VOILA... it works. The only other thing that you have to remember is that the 2006 calipers are thinner so you will need to use a washer with the bolt so it does not botttom out when you try to tighten it all up.
NOW FOR THE REALLY GOOD NEWS.
I decided to "re-set" the memory in the on board computers. Doing this is easy. Disconnect the battery. Hold the negative cable and the positive cable together for 10 seconds. Since I did all this, I have had NO warnings from the VSC. The vehicle stops extremely well and the rotors are true so that all my brake chatter and small shimmy at highway speeds has disappeared.
I hope this helps everyone.
So why has Toyota not addressed this issue? Damned if I know. I am just happy to finally have a properly functioning vehicle after 8 years of aggrevation.
My Sequoia an 02, 120,000 mile Lmtd. Routine maintenence except for (2nd) rear latch. K & N air filters, Bosch Platinum 4 prong plugs, Castrol Syntx 5W40. 16/17 City, 20 mpg highway @ interstate + spds. I'm waiting for the twin turbo diesel Sequoia. Get with the future Toyota Corp.
I just wish I had sat down and applied what I knew about race cars to this problem 5 years ago when I gave up on Toyota and their "technicians". I prefer mechanics.
I suspect your problem will disappear.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
My other family members with Yukons or Pickups think Im telling them stories.
I tell them Toyota furloughed their US SUV/Truck plant employees with pay while GM and Ford just keep throwing them away, on top of squandering customers' money on foreign acquisitions they cannot integrate - Land Rover, Jaguar etc.
Good luck.
My 02 Sequoia has 115,000 trouble free miles. One power antenna, 2 rear door latch's, transmission flush, injector flush, coolant flush at 95,000. Replaced original Bridgestons at 45K w/ Michelin LTX M/S 265 R70 16 that should make 140,000. One set of brake pads and turned rotors at 75,000. Basically a bullet-proof truck. Run K & N air filter & Bosch Platinum 4 prong plugs. Castrol Syntec 5w40 change at 8,000 miles. Love this rig.
Thanks,
Norm....
Thanks!
Thx .. Harbo
I can find tons of websites selling aftermarket and replacement parts for the "main" components of the Sequoia, but does anybody have a good site/suggestion on where I can find the smaller, cheaper pieces?
For example, I need to find the little plastic light cover on the rear door that covers the light that turns on when the door is open.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Unfortunately - when the lock goes there is NO WAY to open or release this gate manually - very poor design, along with the heavy steel construction. My wife's Highlander just about opens by itself. Maybe someone else has a more permanent fix for this - like replacing it with something 100% manual? Good luck,
2021 Toyota Venza Limited Hybrid, 2022 Ram 2500 Laramie 6.4 Hemi, 2007 Mazda MX-5 Miata PRHT
Now this sounded a bit fishy to me. I've heard of catalytic converters going bad, but not on a vehicle only 8 years old.And for sure not two at the same time. Way too much of a coincidence!!
So I went to a mechanic friend of mine and asked him the question. And he said there was a good chance that just replacing the bad oxygen sensor would correct all of the codes. So I bought a new sensor at AutoZone ($129), rented a car code reader. The code reader "confirmed" what the shop had said - both catalytic converters and one oxygen sensor had trouble codes. I swapped out the sensor (15 minute job), and cleared the computer (pulled the negative battery cable off for 5 minutes). Sure enough, when I redid the code read, it came up clean - no problems.
So for $129 and 15 minutes, I saved $4000. Not bad. But I think that buys me the right to complain a little. This is speculation on my part, but it seems like the only sensor points that could show a problem in either catalytic converter are the two rear oxygen sensors. And if one of them is showing a trouble code, couldn't that be the cause of the catalytic converters showing trouble codes?? It's kinda like saying, "That sensor is broken, but it is still working fine." I would think the dealer would at least say, "You have a bad oxygen sensor and POSSIBLY two bad catalytic converters. But we need to change the oxygen sensor before we can be sure." Come on - two catalytic converters coincidentally failing at exactly the same time?? The dealer is supposed to be smarter than I. How come this sounded suspicious to me, but not to them? So I'm not saying the dealer was crooked (after all, the codes for two bad catalytic converters and a bad sensor did show up on the computer). I'm just saying that it is not a bad thing to get a second opinion for any larger repair, even if it is a dealer telling you that you need it....