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Oldsmobile Intrigue: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
I change oil every 4 thousand miles, and now add an oil additive to get me to the next oil change.
Very annoying. Outside of this the car performs well.
Any ideas?
Bought my 98 Intrigue in January, 1999. Car was among the first built after the massive strike was settles. Should have been me first clue.
Car now has under 26K and I can't wait ti get rid of it.
Under warranty, replaced:
Intermediate Steeting Shaft - needs a new one now!
Front passenger door upper frame molding - loose
Wheel center caps clips - clips came loose inside caps and clicked me crazy.
Driver door interior panel - came apart
Console arm rest - foam inside shrunk and vinyl outside puckered.
Front lower air dam - original fell off (actually, I paid for this as it was "only" $12.00)
TWO DAYS after warranty expired, replaced the starter as original shed seeth from the gear. GM refused to reimburse me since I did not have the repair done at a dealership. The repair was done on a Saturday, dealership service was not open then.
Replaced rear brake rotors due to severe rust and scoring. Car had under 19K at the time. Brake pads also replaced and front rotors resurfaced. I was told not to expect more than 6 months more from them.
Steering is making nouse again like before ISS was replaced. GM "may" pay for it, though the car is out of warranty, but I'll have to have a dealership inspect the car (at my expense) at which time they will have a telephone conference to determine who will pay for the repair.
Give you one guess who'll get stuck with THAT bill.
Sorry about the long post/rant, but this was the first new car I ever owned and it has soured me on GM vehicles. Looking an imports now as wife's 12 year old Toyota has been no problem in 75K!
I found a two-pronged "L" shaped piece of spring metal that's flat on one end and split into two fingers on the other end on the floorboard next to it, but for the life of me I can't figure out how it attaches from the console to the fold-down section of the cup holder.
Any help or hints would be appreciated - heck I'm not even sure if the piece of spring metal came from the cup holder assembly.
Thanks,
Greg
The dealership has replaced the driver's side strut-mount assembly once, which did not help. This was followed with a replacement of the entire driver's side strut assembly. Still heard the problem shortly after leaving the dealership. Although the service advisor noticed the groaning on the driver's side (hence all the activity there), I can hear the groaning in the center and passenger side front of the vehicle.
Service Advisor took one of the last Intrigues on the lot and noticed the same groaning. He also took the intrigue of another customer who was in for service and also heard it.
I read a previous entry where someone indictaed a problem with the engine cradle (different term for the sub frame?).
Anyone else?
Isidoro Pulido
If so it could be this:
Condition
Some customers may comment on a moan/groan type noise coming from the rear of the vehicle that is heard in the vehicle's passenger compartment. This condition
is most apparent during moderate brake apply; when the vehicle is slowing or approaching a stop and typically does not occur on a brand new vehicle.
Cause
This noise may be generated at the rear brake pad/brake rotor interface during a brake application, which is transmitted into the vehicle's underbody through the rear
suspension components.
Correction
Replace the existing rear disc brake pads with P/N 18023377, following the service procedure in the Disc Brakes sub-section of the Service Manual.
I lubing procedure have you remove the steering linkage and use a factory available lubing kit to inject grease into the shaft. I purchased the kit but, decided to try something a lot simpler before going into the hassle of removing the linkage.
I got under the dash and pulled down the plastic tubing that surrounds the intermediate shaft and inserted the "straw" extension from a can of AMSOIL liquid lube grease into the hollow steering shaft and sprayed a fair amount of grease down it. (The factory lubing procedure is basically very similar to this) Afterwards took the car for a test drive and all the clunking noise is GONE. The whole greasing operation took less than five minutes and can be periodically done without any effort or special tools.
With your positive input I may try and correct the Alero noise.
I have 38K miles on the car and the 36 month warranty has expired. No extended warranty.
I would be interested in any advice/experience that any of you might be able to offer before I take it in for servicing. Do you know of any technical service bulletins on this issue?
I would appreciate any input that you might offer.
Thanks.
Also, my power mirrors no longer work, and it's not the fuse. How 'bout that one?
The power mirrors never went out on me.
I did have to go to several places for the bulbs though. something about the bulb number changing?
I think that any headlight flicker problem with a '98 intrigue is different than the problem people had with flickering on later model Intrigues. This is because the '98 (and I believe many '99's) came with the 3.8 liter engine. Any other post I have ever seen about this problem had to do with the 3.5 liter engine and its alternator. The 3.8 engine has been around for a long time and is so well known that alternator problems should be easy to diagnose and fix.
I really believe a lot of my problems happened when the water pump seals corroded from the Dex-Cool @ 55k miles. BTW there is a class action law suit against GM about Dex-cool and the fact that it not only DOES NOT last 100,000 miles, but it is so corrosive that it causes premature wearing of parts. In my case, the leak worked it's way into other parts of the car (sensors etc.).
I spent about $1500 in repairs from the summer of 2002 to about march 2003. and still I had problems. without sinking more $$$ into it, I realized I probably could not sell privately in good faith. So I traded it last month in a cut my losses mode. good news? if there is a settlement on the Dex-cool suit, I may get some reimbursement.
Can another coolant be used, or are we stuck with the GM-reccomended product?
I find a small spot of oil under my car when I move it. This couldn't turn out to be anything major, could it?
Thanks
Have your dealer check service bulletin 0O-07-30-002B (Slips, Harsh Upshift or Garage Shifts, Launch Shudders, Flares, Erratic Shifts and Intermittent Concerns, DTC P1811 or P0748 Set (Replace Pressure Control Solenoid Valve Assembly)).
Lee
According to GM service bulletin 01-06-01-011 "The accepted rate of oil consumption for engines used in the vehicles referenced is 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 3200 km (2000 mi). " This applies to all Olds Intrigues.
Lee
I agree a quart every thousand miles is getting to the point of BS, but 1 quart and even 2 between oil changes is reasonable given the aluminum engine.
If the outside sensor is flaky, what about the inside temperature sensor?
Thanks very much for your help!
Good luck.
Thanks
George
George
1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
Drive Belt Replacement
Removal Procedure
Rotate the drive belt tensioner using a 15-mm box end wrench on the pulley nut.
Remove the drive belt.
Installation Procedure
Rotate the drive belt tensioner using a 15-mm box end wrench on the pulley nut.
Install the drive belt.
Document ID# 445613
1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
Drive Belt Tensioner Replacement
Removal Procedure
Caution
Before servicing any electrical component, the ignition key must be in the OFF or LOCK position and all electrical loads must be OFF, unless instructed otherwise in these procedures. If a tool or equipment could easily come in contact with a live exposed electrical terminal, also disconnect the negative battery cable. Failure to follow these precautions may cause personal injury and/or damage to the vehicle or its components.
Disconnect the battery ground (negative) cable.
Drain the engine coolant from the cooling system.
Remove the drive belt.
Remove the generator.
Disconnect the heater hose adapters with heater hoses from the drive belt tensioner.
Remove the drive belt tensioner bracket bolts.
Remove the drive belt tensioner.
If replacing the drive belt tensioner, remove the heater water bypass inlet pipe and seal.
Installation Procedure
Lubricate the seal with coolant.
Install the heater water bypass inlet pipe and seal.
Install the drive belt tensioner.
Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
Install the drive belt tensioner bracket bolts.
Tighten the drive belt tensioner bracket bolts to 50 N·m (37 lb ft).
Connect the heater hose adapters with heater hoses to the drive belt tensioner.
Install the generator.
Install the drive belt.
Fill the cooling system with engine coolant.
Connect the battery ground (negative) cable.
:-(
Now, starting it requires cranking for 3 to 5s and the engine is not as powerful as it used to be, but no slouch either.I went to an AutoZone store and the guy confirmed that the sensor is gone. Unfortunately, he didn't have the part and neither did the warehouse, so he couldn't even order it. It could be only a faulty connection, but I stopped at a Buick-Cadillac dealer and when I knew that it had only 2, I got one anyway (for about $100).
The dealer quoted the service as a $125 job, an independent shop, as a $75 job plus about $100 for "diagnostics"...
Knowing the history of the Intrigue, I'm leaning towards having the service done at the dealer. AFAIK, it can be replaced from under the car by removing the starter.
Document ID# 1130254
2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue
Info - Battery Parasitic Drain #02-06-03-010 - (10/14/2002)
The accy. belt tension pulley replacement went very well, thank you for the helpful information.
CHANGE OIL Indicator
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will determine the amount of oil life from various sensors and inputs within the engine control system. Oil life is calculated by the PCM and sent to the instrument cluster through the class II serial data link. When the PCM has determined that an oil life of 0 percent is present, it will inform the driver by turning on the CHANGE OIL indicator. After an oil change, the CHANGE OIL indicator can be reset by:
Turning the ignition switch on (engine off).
Fully press and release the accelerator pedal 3 times within 5 seconds.
The CHANGE OIL SOON indicator will flash 2 times indicating the CHANGE OIL indicator has been reset.
BTW, was it Torx head studs you were faced with when replacing the tensioner?
Again, thank for the reset information!
The cause is believed to be the alternator, but some have reported that the OEM replacement eventually suffers from the same malady. However, others reported getting a 3rd party alternator with success. If this is still true, what brand would be a good replacement? How hard is it to replace the alternator on one's own?
TIA
She had forgotten to turn the wiper switch off.
So, as the defroster began to melt the ice on the windshield, the wipers began to free themsleves, but before something "broke".
The bottom line is, the wiper motor still appears to be working fine, but whatever connects the motor to the blades either broke or came loose, so the wipers don't move at all, even though I can see the motor going around.
Any ideas, on how difficult this is to fix? Thanks
Jeremy