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Volvo 240 Wagons

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  • My 1993 240 Wagon has 330,000 miles on it and has been a great car...No plans of replacement with a newer one...Mechanics contend that the new ones will not last like the older models so if buying one, don't expect the high mileage and years of service that we have been experiencing...
  • freddirksefreddirkse Posts: 2
    edited June 2010
    I have a 1990 Volvo 240 DL Wagon. When it's cold, it loads up and floods really bad and won't start. I end up having to pull the connectors to the fuel injectors, crank it and it'll run for a few seconds as it burns the gas in the cylinders. I plug the connectors back in and try again and when it finally starts, I have to hold the accelerator to the floor and it chugs and chugs and will finally smooth out. If I don't hold it to the floor, it just dies. After it gets through the chugging and it starts to idol normal, it runs like a watch for the most part. If we stop it, it'll start again just fine as long as it's still warm. Just when it's cold, it does this flooding thing. Recently it's now started suddenly revving to 3-4K RPMS after starting without touching the accelerator. It'll be sitting there idling, then suddenly it's idling at 4K.
    Any help is appreciated!
  • leigh1975leigh1975 Posts: 1
    I have a 1993 240 Volvo sedan. The brake lights do not come on when my headlights are on; though the tail light is light up. Is there something fairly simple that I can do at home to fix it? I don't have any experience working on cars but love my volvo and want to keep her on the road. Any advice would be appreciated.

    Thanks!
  • Hi. Trying to fix the same. Did you have success? Any suggestions? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
  • I took mine in and the problem was that bulbs used were improper voltage (i.e. wrong bulb number?) and were installed incorrectly.

    Might need to get the actual volvo bulbs for the correct voltage otherwise it just causes problems. Paid $60 to diagnose that problem once.
  • at the rate i'm going, 138,000 miles seems like an eternity..the truth is, i live in nyc ( manhattan) where the subway is a favourite mode of transportation..about 13 yrs ago, i bought a 1993 volvo 240 sedan that had 25, 500 miles on it..guess what? it's now january , 2011 and i have only 46,000 miles on it...i hardly ever use my car BUT i hate to give it up..it's a work of art..i love the boxy lines and aesthetics... during the years, pieces of molding were stolen from it and someone tried to pry off the grill ( inside the public garage).. other than fixing same & replacing the alternator, buying a new battery and changing the tires, i have had NO problems.. can't give any mechanical advice to anyone here as i'm not good at that..but i'll never sell this car..as it's a welcome addition to my single family.. just wanted to share this story.... good luck everyone. :)
  • Did you ever figure out the problem? I have a 90 240 wagon with 208K miles and have the same problem-fuel pump relay has been replaced with no luck.
  • davez7davez7 Posts: 1
    I have a 1984 Vovlo 240 DL wagon that's been in a garage for several years. It was meticulously maintained until the original owner passed away about 9 years ago. Since the car was only used a few times and has sat in the garage for 4 or 5 years without any use. The tires are partially deflated and I have yet to attempt to turn it on because I do not want to cause any damage to the motor. The car has 113,000 MILES AND interior and exterior are really in excellent condition. I'm sure anyone who wants to use it will have to replace the tires and do the brakes + other things that come along with a car sitting without use for so long. It is hard to find a appraised value for this car online. Can anyone suggest what it might be worth, or give me their opinion whether or not it would be worth putting the money into getting it back on the road? Thanks - Dave
  • Hi Dave -
    If it was meticulously maintained, garaged most of it's life, has those low miles and the interior and exterior are truly in excellent condition, I would definitely try to resurrect the vehicle. I suggest changing the oil for sure before attempting to start it. If you are able you may want to drain the gas tank and replace the fuel filter(s) so you have a nice clean fuel supply and lines.
    Is it a stick or automatic?
    Are the tires cracked from sitting partially deflated? If it was inside and did not have the sun and other weather attacking it, they may be fine. Brakes will be fine after sitting - perhaps a little sticky at first and certainly rotor rust, but that'll fix itself quick enough.
    Sounds to me like a couple hours of love, and worst case $500-$600 of new tires and brakes, and you probably have a fine auto again. Depending on where you live and truly what condition it's in, you should be able to get anywhere from $2,000 - $4,000 out of it.
    Fred
  • luilunluilun Posts: 1
    Theres a switch underneath the steering colum that controls the parking brake switch if both are out than it's that switch
  • I had the same issue, it turned out to be the temp sensor for the coolant . I replaced it and never looked back, good luck.
  • I'm looking to buy a 240 volvo wagon. I'm willing to pay top dollar for a car in good condition. Any recommendations on what to look out for? Any particular years of this model that are better or worse? What should I expect to pay in Portland, Or? If I plan to keep the car for 10 years or more what kind of mileage is recommended? Thanks!
  • rperrperrperrper Posts: 1
    I have a 1993 Volvo 240 and the speedometer is not reading accurately. I need to replace the gear. Can anyone tell me how much one tooth changes the odometer reading. My current speedometer is reading 5 mph slower than I am actually going.

    Your help is much appreciated!
  • Hi, I've had a new Air Mass Meter, O2 Sensor, Temp Coolant Sensor, Crank Positioner Relay, Tune up(plugs, wires, air filter, fuel filter, flame trap, dist cap and rotor) put on, pulled the vacuum hose off the Line Pressure Regulator while the car was running and there is no moisture in the tube and no real change in the running of the engine when that is done. had a meter put on the O2 wires while running and it intermittently runs closed loop and then later will either hunt for gas or run rich. HELP!! I am going crazy trying to get to the bottom of this. Thanks so much for reading and responding. I am out of mechanics who are willing to spend time to look at my "puzzle" of a car problem. I now have the Bentley Book and am wondering if I should I start to take a peek at the wires in the harness? Anyone got any grand ideas? :-)
  • 1986 245 with about 300 thousand on it. Purrs like a kitten. B230F Bosch breakerless IGN. I just remade the connection for the IGN controller and it is new and works perfectly. Also a new Bosch coil, new ECU, cleaned the injectors, new Idle Air Control Valve, New Temp sensor, newer MAF, newer and working O2 sensor. Pulled harness and fixed all worn and a couple of bare spots and that is all good. Won't start when cold. Second new distributor ( rebuilt cardan). I did the hall effect/distributor plug test where you jumper the B and C terminals with a plug grounded and no spark.....OK maybe here you are supposed to crank the engine while the terminals are jumped? I thought how could a spark get to the plug unless the tower is pointing to that plug? I pulled the coil wire from the distributor and set is so that about 1/8 inch to the intake manifold would create a gap for it to spark to and repeated the test. Also had a test light hooked to the red white wire (1) or negative side of the coil and had noticed on the previous B to C jumper that the light flashed. Tried the test again and the coil sent out a big spark. The test simulates the hall effect so it seems the hall effect it not working.

    I thought to heat the distributor so used a heat gun and then it did start. It warms up and runs good with all the work I did removing all the other bugs. cutting out and not starting hot and then starting after a while and now just does not start when cold. I let is set a few hours and it would not start again. Got the heat gun and with my hand on the distributor to prevent melting heated it again and now this is three times and once the distributor is warmed up it starts.

    Anybody know why the hall only works when warm? Is the silicon damaged? The distributor does appear even though new to have a wire that is rubbing but not rubbed through ( small green one rubbing the rotor, hall 4 slot wheel on the bottom) I moved the wire down some and will try the other distributor to see if it does the same thing after one more heat gun test in the morning. Odd as before all the mysterious stuff now nearly resolved it started at very cold temperatures immediately and runs good so this is just odd. Pretty sure it is the hall effect so will need to get another distributor again now that the ignition control unit has a very well connected set of wires sealed in Dow Corning Compound and the other components check out. What could or does cause a hall effect to burn out or malfunction besides wires?
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