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Volvo 240 Wagons



  • I have a 1990 740 wagon that is in pristine condition, it has only 70k on it.

    I have owned 240's my whole life, and I miss them all. I am willing to offer my perfect condition 740 wagon to trade for a 240 wagon that has some or all of the following

    gl, gle, or a 240 dl with electric windows
    cruise control
    no rust body
    volvo tow hitch a plus
    m46 tranny (4spd stick with push button overdrive)
    resistive coil springs in rear (heavy duty)

    late 70's ealry eighties a plus
  • I have a '89 240 dl wagon with over 200,000 miles (the odometer's broken)- I thought it was time to let it go but it still runs good and I love it too much. The main problem: the overdrive goes on and off whenever it feels like it! Is it worth putting in a new transmission? Any ideas how much that would cost?
  • there is a wire harness on each side of the hatch. on the newer models with the 3rd brake light it includes wiring for the rear wiper motor, defroster and rear tail light. if their are rear speakers they might run through there as well and yes there will be a ground of course. On earlier models it should only include the rear defog and rear wiper. they are a pain to rewire so have it done professionally will run between $140-$200 per side. Once the protective casing around the wires cracks....your toast. Hope this helps...DAVOLVOMAN IN SEA-TOWN!!!
  • try your overdrive relay. it is located under the right front vent under the stereo and next to the glove box. it is white and about 3"x2". Easiest access is taking the glove box out. will be to the left behind the heater vent. sounds like this is your problem not the tranny. should run you $70, used $15-20 peace...DAVOLVOMAN IN SEA-TOWN
  • check a local junk yard for the part. should only run most $100. try NORTHERN EUROPEAN IN SEATTLE,WA IF YOU CANNOT FIND ONE. DAVOLVOGUY IN SEA-TOWN
  • I just purchased my first Volvo - a 1990 240 wagon with 151k miles. I flew to Providence and drove it 1,000 miles back to Kentucky. Late in the trip, it started losing power. We were driving at night, and I noticed that lights were getting dimmer and dimmer. I also noticed that when I used anything else in the electrical system (turn signals, etc), the power grew noticably worse. We waited for light, and it seemed to drive OK for a while without the lights on, but as we neared home, the engine seemed to slowly lose power. The car would idle fine, and you could see the lights on the dash get noticably brighter while it idled. But when placed under power, the engine just didn't want to respond. Any ideas would be much appreciated.
  • When I tried to start my car this morning after a heavy rain, it didn't want to start. When it did finally start it seemed to be missing or not hitting on all 4 cylinders. Any ideas what it might be?
  • I have 1986 240DL that does not start in cold, damp weather, between 30 to 50 degrees. It starts when it is colder and it starts when it is is warmer. It just will not start when it is damp and in the above temperature range. It is very annoying. What could it be?
    thank you,
  • Hello all,

    My boys trashed my beloved 240 DL and now I am trying to restore it to its better days. I need help finding parts because I don't know the exact names etc. I'll list the problems.

    - missing front grille
    - very loose driver door handle (works though)
    - driver and pax seat warmers wires are all messed up thanks to backseat pax sticking feet up under seats...
    - missing big flat piece that attaches under the engine (to keep it clean from splashes?)
    - missing driver door 3-4" trim
    - missing entire bottom 4-5" trim type part that goes all along the side bottom of the pax side.
    - missing small trim (~1" with part chrome) on pax door
    - cruise control no longer works
    - odometer and trip-ometer no longer work
    - both rear light fixtures are broken and need to be replaced ($150 each from Volvo!!!)
    - the little ball thing that you hold on to on the shifter is gone - needs to be replaced (bought 3 from auto type stores, none fit)

    I love my Volvo and feel very safe in it. I'm sure it has at least 240,000 miles on it and now that I've had the clutch replaced, it runs great again (but it's loud - needs new exhaust system too).

    Thank you all for your help and forgive my automotive parts ignorance.

  • Hi I Have a 240 GL Wagon 1986 with alitle over 180000 miles on it.
    Here is the problem. Once after my car has been driven on the highway at high speed or for more than 10 min. around the city, it gets very hard to shift in to first and second gears. I have to press on the stick shift really hard and I feels that if I press any harder I might snap the cable or do some other damage. Also the clutch pedal is really stiff. So basically when I start my car in the morning it shifts OK, although not perfectly fine but after about 15 min. drive, it gets progressively harder and grater to shift.
    I'll appreciate any suggestions what might be the cause for that.
  • No, don't do it. Check out the overdrive switch, in the shifter itself first. I had this problem, it's a 25 dollar "switch out" adjustment
  • The button is the overdrive engagement... turn it off if you are towing.
  • Hi,
    i own an 87 volvo 240 dl, i just replaced the alternator, and i drove it around for a couple of hours, then i put some injector cleaner into the gas tank, it started up fine, but when i went to drive it a couple hours later it wont start, the engin is sparking, but it seems like its not getting any gas, i replaced the fuel pump relay, but that didnt help, any one had this problem, if its not the fuel pump that would be awsome
  • if you go on to the web site or ipd in portland org. they should have all the parts you discribed
  • passau01passau01 Posts: 1
    I have a electric window problem with my 1990 240 DL wagon. the electric window on the drivers side won't work, nor does the passenger side or rear windows. It worked fine one day and the next day the windows would not go down. However if I sit on the passenger side and use the independent switch to lower the window that works ok - the rear windows do not work using the separate independent switches. Could be an electrical problem but I have no idea where to start. I got a used set of 4 switches for the drivers side, plugged them in, but it still does not work. Any suggestions? I checked the fuses - no problem there. Could it be the window relay??? thanks for your help.
  • Yep- I had it happen to me too. There is a small thin retaining clip that has popped off of that linkage. You might find still in the door. To reconnect it, you will have to take off the upholstery and the latch cover and remove the latch. This will give you access to the linkage. It is a tight fit. The clip will snap over the connector and then to the linkage itself. I was luck enough to find a salvaged door for the clip and to reference how it connects.
    Good luck-
  • I am sure that there is a short to ground somewhere in the circuit. My light stays on constantly. I change out the relay and it lasted about 15 seconds before blowing again. Any suggestions??
  • volvo420volvo420 Posts: 1
    My Volvo is getting power to everything but when i turn the key to start nothing happens. Any ideas?
  • jwald69jwald69 Posts: 1
    go to You can by a small gear you can replace yourself. They even sell a dvd to show you how to do it.
  • waserdwaserd Posts: 2
    I have the 240 DL 1989 Wagon B230 Engine
    It works great for the most part but once a week or so
    after driving with no problems it wont start.I open the
    hood and look see nothing and in a few tries it will start.
    I decided to plug and unplug the ECU and heard a rattle.
    I opened it up and a resistor R315 was laying on the bottom
    and the place it was supposed to be was a little charred.
    Anyone know the value of said resistor or it's use. waserd
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