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I'll let you know if it works for me.
Since I bought it, I've put about 1K into it but it was all stuff that would go wrong with any car like muffler system and gas lines, that kind of stuff.
2K seems a lot but you have to look at the body. If body is good, which it should be because Volvos actually have some metal in them, then that alone is worth a grand. If it runs well then it's a good deal. I find my wagon to be pretty good on gas too.
The mechanics told be that the car needs a new engine, it has a lot of "blow".
But the noise was not present prior to the repairs.
Now I'm thinking they created a problem.
I found the crank shaft pulley under my car today.
It did not have the narrow end on it any longer. What would cause it to fall off???? :mad:
I have ordered an after market crank shaft pulley. Do the Volvo parts really outperform after market parts? The cost was 2.5X greater.
Another question:
Although I truly love my car, is it going to perform long enough to continue to justify the repairs? It has about 185,000 miles on it now.
Thanks a bunch for your help. Feeling a bit desperate. :sick:
but you know the best thing about it? my kids are embarrassed by it. what more could i ask.
karyn :shades:
It was and is the perfect car. :sick:
I am in California, so of course the emissions are the strictest. however, the check engine light has been off and on for 1.5 years and has been 'fixed' by many different mechanics and cost me over $2000. I am at my wits' end and now hate the car, but I'm not sure whether to scrap it or fix it. What do you recommend? I was planning on taking it again to the local Volvo dealer (who after 3 days said it was just in need of a new O2 sensor, which did not resolved check engine or failing smog actually). Oh, and it also has a brand new catalytic converter, fix in exhaust leak supposedly, and many other things.
Thank you!
Julie
The check engine light only come on when a electric sensor is not working. It could be your Mass air sensor or your O2 sensor. I live in RI but, I can't believe the local Volvo dealer couldn't fix it. He should have to equipment to test for problem. Hope this helps. Those sensor are only good for about 100,000 miles but, as always they could last longer. :sick:
Happy Driving :shades:
Also about taillights. I put several different new bulbs in my brake light, and it still won't work. I've been told it's because the flat sheet thing that the bulb metal tongs screw onto contact with is bad and needs replacing. Unfortunately, the car at this point has cost over $2500 in 20 months, and it only has 136,000 miles. So much for Volvo reputation of lasting 300K +. The car is nothing but problems!
i had a mechanic replace it, but he screwed up and made it so i had to put in, and take out a fuse every time i wanted to start and stop the car. so i fixed that problem by wiring in a switch and located the switch on my dashboard.
i know im a bit late with this solution, but there you have it anyway. its the fuel relay going out that causes the intermittent stalling.
i have been runing that same volvo since. took it to hell, beyond, and back several times. she has held up like a champion, and i am proud to have found her. she had imaculate interior, and origional paint and body( no scratches or dents), AND only 116,000 miles when i bought her. thats about 5,000 miles a year.
now the sad part of my story is that her veins( wiring) is deteriating, and i have had to creat switches just to keep her running. reverse lights, fuel relay, ignition, windows, starter, and license plate light are all on new switches and temp wiring. i have searched for weeks looking for a new wiring harness for the whole car( not just the engine). im begining to think she will be lost to the junk yard if i cant get some help soon. there r new problems weekly, and im begining to lose hope.
if there is someone out there that has a 84 240dl wagon that is just sitting around and has no use for it, i would love to have the wiring harness, or if there is someone that is selling a 84 240dl wagon please let me know. i found one on ebay, but cant afford that price. please help.
1: the idle is too low, which dont seem to be the problem since they have been driving it around for a while.
2: which is the 1 that got me started in rigging mine with switches. the fuel relay is intermittenly causing the car to stall because it is about to fail completely. it is located under the carped at the passengers feet bu the computer. its a little square relay, and can be replaced easily. if this doesnt help, then im not sure what else it could be.
hope this helps you in your quest to fix the proble.
If the light comes back on but the car runs smooth at idle and start in cold weather you may need to run some fuel cleaner.
The car has a computer with a code system that tells what area is in need of attention.
I have owned 5 240 volvos and my experience with the check engine light is fuel/ air mixture.
After about a year of trying different things I found a local mechanic that had a volvo and he put on a rebuilt mass air flow meter and the car runs like new. The part and labor was less than 75.00 dollars.
New mass air meters are about 300.00 and up.
I have read that vacuum gauges are good instruments for indicating several types of possible engine problems. Being a very inexperienced mechanic, what are some engine trouble signs that a vacuum gauge will show besides a vacuum leak, etc.
Thanks!
Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volvo_200_series
Cheers. Brad
or by phone at (714) 791-4262 cell phone
lets talk
I have an '88 240 wagon which won't shift into fourth gear. Fuse #11 is fine. I replaced the overdrive relay hoping that was it but no luck. I can still toggle the "4th gear disconnect" light on the dash on and and off with the button on the stick. Transmission fluid is good and the kickdown cable looks ok, it has not been adjusted for a long time.
Where do I go from here?
Thanks
Jed
Does anyone know the various causes of low voltage supply to the AMM?
He has switched many parts from a good 240, but none has fixed our problem (incl AMM, AMM's wiring harness, O2 sensor, computer, some idle switch position indicator?, and other bits and pieces).
I know everyone here is partial to them, but my family of course tells me that they are expensive to repair, and that a car that age may have hidden problems. Before buying the car, I will take it to the nearest Volvo service facility for an inspection, but I wanted to hear from some owners before purchasing as well.
Are there any major problems, recalls, etc., that I should be aware of? Maybe an issue with that model and year that I should find out if it has been resolved?
ANY feedback would be greatly appreciated. I am looking forward to becoming an owner soon, and would love some assistance! Thanks guys!
Brian
email: Peskatarian@gmail.com
initially, wipers would turn on automatically whenever the car went over a bump in the road. then a mechanic changed passenger-side hinge wires and the problem went away for a week. now the problem is back and actually worse because wipers are always on if the car is on.
mechanic's next step would be to check entire wiring system under floormats, etc.
any suggestions would help. thanks.
I have changed the filter/screen and oil, i messed up the gasket and replaced the oil and gasket again, then changed the solenoid with a new one at $165. and no luck, then i changed the relay at $45. and it still shifts when it wants to. sometimes hot, some times cold. The kick down cable seems ok too. I talked to a volvo mech at volvo and he ashured me that it was either the selenoid or relay, well both are replaced and it still does it. the white wire that goes from the shifter through the floor board to the solenoid is raw in a few places so i put some gorilla tape around it, that is the only thing left to do (i think) if i do need to replace it, how do i do it? PLEASE HELP, i want to get another 100 k out of it.
Is the car suposed to automatically down shift when yo uhit 40 mph?
Also, my aftermarket cruise control works about the same way, when it wants. I checked the lines and didn't find any leaks any suggestions to that?
I can deal with some fabrication on my own but the upper bolt that supports the antenna and keeps it from falling into the trunk does not fit the power unit ( manual antenna stud is smaller diameter. Volvo does not have the larger bolt and rubber boot available anymore for '92 sedan !!! HELP..........