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Can't just toss it in the back seat or trunk; for one thing, it won't fit and for another, there are two and sometimes three of us.
It is dark gray with a tan leather interior. There is no rust or wear spots on the body and the paint and tires are in good condition. The car has 159,000 miles on it. The engine is really powerful and runs strong, with no ticking, tapping, vibrating, or shimmying. Under heavy acceleration, the engine continued to drive smooth with little to no unbalanced delivery of power, shaking, or rocking of the car.
As for the manual transmission, it shifts smoothly and the car goes extremely fast. The interior needs a proper cleaning as well as the trunk and a few BMW tools will need to be replaced along with the passenger side seat belt clasp. Also, the muffler is rotted and will need to be replaced since it is loud.
The brakes are powerful and stopped this speeding car very quickly without shuddering, vibrating, rattling, or any noise. The engine and engine bay appeared to be fairly clean with the exception with some weird looking scrambled egg and anti-freeze looking stuff at a few spots.
On the overhead diagnostic system, the indicators for brake lights, rear lights, license plate, brake linings are active.
Also, on the dashboard, the vehicle's efficiency system rates the vehicle low, indicating that the vehicle needs to be properly serviced. Also, the "Check" light was blinking. Also, the car's miles to the gallon gauge ran down to "0" during idle. I did not look at that gauge during driving.
Prior to starting the vehicle, it couldn't start with just a turn of the key and needed a tap of the gas pedal to start car. With engine running, smells of unburned gas fumes exited the exhaust.
This leaves me with reason to believe that the engine is running rich, which may be why the diagnostic computer rated the car's operation low and in need of service. I assume it might need a fuel pressure regulator since the car did not stall, buck, or shudder during use. That rules of the possibility of a defective fuel pump.
The car's inspection expires in the next few months and with it running rich, would not pass emissions and inspections, which is why I think the guy selling it is looking to dump his problems on the next owner. But then again, I also don't think he knows much about cars.
But on the same token, it appears that the car can be a real nice car if the proper parts were replaced.
Off the top of my head, this is what it'll need and maybe a little more:
Muffler
Fuses and Bulbs
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Clean vehicle and replace BMW tools and small parts
Brake Lining Sensor
Vehicle Emissions and Safety Inspections
Should I buy this car and would these problems be fixable? How would I be able to increase the efficiency of the engine to make it run clean again? Would a fuel pressure regulator fix this problem or would this problem occur again? How much would these repairs run me? I appreciate your response.
2021 Toyota Venza Limited Hybrid, 2022 Ram 2500 Laramie 6.4 Hemi, 2007 Mazda MX-5 Miata PRHT
Otherwise, fantastic machine.
That is what BMW calls the Service Interval Indicator; it has nothing to do with "efficiency". If the SI system is working properly-a big "if" on a BMW of that vintage-it just means the car needs a regular maintenance.
Also, the "Check" light was blinking.
Are any red lights showing in the overhaead console? That is what a yellow "Check" light indicates.
Also, the car's miles to the gallon gauge ran down to "0" during idle.
That is the way the mpg gauge works on older Bimmers. Think about it: You ARE getting 0 mpg when the engine is running and the car is stopped.
Should I buy this car and would these problems be fixable? How would I be able to increase the efficiency of the engine to make it run clean again? Would a fuel pressure regulator fix this problem or would this problem occur again?
There are a number of reasons the car might be running rich, so I can't estimate repair costs. That said, E28s of that vintage are pretty durable cars. If you are a decent home mechanic I'd say to join BMW CCA, buy the E28 Bentley manual and have at it. If it was me, I'd buy it- but then I'm a gearhead who isn't afraid to get his hands dirty.
I was thinking the exact same thing. For an 18 year old car with only 160K on the clock and in the good condition described, it sounds like a steal at $800. If joyrider147 doesn't buy it, and if you don't buy it div2, I want thrid dibs. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
* What would I do to get the Service Interval Computer gauge to go up? Give the regular service maintenance, meaning the coolant change, air filter, PCV Valve, Spark plugs, and oil change?*
Also, the "Check" light was blinking.
Are any red lights showing in the overhaead console? That is what a yellow "Check" light indicates.
* Yes, the indicators I mentioned was on the overhead console and I saw a button marked "Check." Does that reset the diagnostic lights after they are fixed? Also, does this increase the level on the service interval indicator if it is properly repaired? Because these indicators are on, does it mean that the bulbs need replacing or the original BMW fuses need replacing since those fuses are easily suseptible to corrosion from the environment alot faster than normal ones?*
What does the mass air flow sensor do and where is it located? Does it tell the car's computer the amount of air flowing into the engine to ensure proper fuel/air mixture?
You can reset the lights using an inexpensive reset tool. I would perform what BMW calls an Inspection II. It's been a while since I ran an E28, but if I recall correctly it includes changing the oil in the engine, transmission, and final drive, as well as the spark plugs, air filter, and fuel filter(there is no PCV valve). The valves also need to be checked and adjusted. Coolant should be changed every two years using only BMW coolant. The brake fluid should be changed every year using a DOT 4 fluid such as ATE Super Blue Racing or Castrol LMA.
Yes, the indicators I mentioned was on the overhead console and I saw a button marked "Check."
The check button only turns off the flashing "Check" light. The overhead panel shows burnt out bulbs as well as oil level and a few other systems. Sometimes the bulb works but corrosion in the socket causes the system to report a bad bulb-you should always use OEM style german bulbs from the dealer or the Sylvania/Osram bulbs available at Autozone.
What does the mass air flow sensor do and where is it located? Does it tell the car's computer the amount of air flowing into the engine to ensure proper fuel/air mixture?
The 528e uses a vane type airflow meter; it's part #1 on this diagram. It's not a true mass airflow meter, but it does measure the volume of air entering the engine. On any fuel injected car it is critical that all rubber hoses and boots are sound-no cracks or leakage. On your 5er the intake boot as well as all of the other vacumn hoses are probably long overdue for replacement.
thanks
Stop by your dealer, and ask if you can try some black mats... They will look better than you think..
regards,
kyfdx
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Maybe he could pull off the clear mats if he also fitted some neat-o J.C. Whitney seat covers. And maybe a set of curb feelers...
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
You can buy a perfectly nice, clean ready to roll 528e for $3,500 and you'll easy have that in the tired old car you are considering (or more).
Run away as fast as you can and buy the cleanest most trouble-free BMW 528e you can afford. If you can't afford to buy a clean trouble free one for $3,500, don't buy a BMW, would be my advice.
My next question would be: If I fix the fuel pressure regulator and reset the system, would it stop it from running extra gas? Do I have to change the fuel pump as well, even though it doesn't seem to be malfunctioning? If so, can I access the fuel pressure regulator and pump from the trunk?
If I go the extra mile to change the mass air flow sensor, would it make the engine run cleaner?
How would I be able to check the remaining sensors to make sure they are running properly?
Also, how do I go about burning off the excess gas in the exhaust? Just drive on the highway for a while?
Thank you all for your input.
Also, how long does it take you to install the rack and secure the bikes?
Now for a stupid question: It's supposed to rain pretty much the entire day tomorrow, and I have a 6 1/2 hour trip. Is there any way to keep the bikes dry?
1. I am missing the adapter for the spare key. I could not find it in the glove compartment as mentioned in the onwer's manual. Is it an option? There is a clear plastic bag with screws but it was ripped as if somebody took something. I am wondering if that is where the adpater was to be found, in the clear bag with the other screws.
2. There are hooks for a cargo net in the trunk but no net. Is the cargo net an option? It does not show as an option on Edmunds.
3. Trunk is very hard to close unless you push it down with your hand. The hand gets dirty and leaves somewhat of a mark on my white car. Other than closing it violently from the inside handle, is there any other way? It is hard on women specially if they are short.
Thanks
My questions are:
Where is this belt located?
Will the air work if sensor is bad?
Should this be handled by a professional or can we fix this ourselves?
BTW we are getting about 25 MPG running 89 around town and some highway..good or can it be better?
Thanks!
Niki
It's a bicycle,not a watercraft...
Thanks, Greg
FYI: That phone is not on BMW's officially-approved Bluetooth phone list... FWIW
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo
I had put off changing a noisy idler pulley on my wife's 128K 1997 528i, and late last fall my procrastination was rewarded by the pulley bearing disintegrating and taking out both belts and the fan shroud. I decided to let my independent BMW tech handle the repairs. While he had the car we decided to replace the radiator, the water pump, and the remaining idler pulley as a precaution. My tech also found and replaced a bad tie rod and had the car aligned. The total repair cost?
$1161