Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair

1353638404154

Comments

  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,370
    I just replaced the original battery in my 2000 528i so I'm guessing that 6 years is what they're good for. It's possible that if the car hadn't sat idle all winter it would've been OK but 6 & 1/2 years is almost twice what I've ever gotten from a battery.

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Member Posts: 5,499
    to have the battery outside of the engine compartment. Besides helping the weight distribution significantly, batteries last a lot longer when they're kept cooler.
    '08 Acura TSX, '17 Subaru Forester
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,370
    Besides helping the weight distribution significantly, batteries last a lot longer when they're kept cooler.

    Amen to that, the battery in my TR-4A was mounted right behind the engine, those lasted about a year. :cry:

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    I have had OEM BMW batteries last for over ten years. However, I checked the electrolyte levels every six months and topped up with distilled water as needed. If I needed to depend on the car I'd probably replace it at eight years from the in service date of the car. Replacement BMW batteries do not appear to be as robust, and they are expensive to boot; I replaced the battery in my E39 with an Interstate MTP-93. Be sure that the shop includes the vent hose adapter kit which allows the MTP-93 to be connected to the car's vent hose.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • ny540i6ny540i6 Member Posts: 518
    Don't know if you got this taken care of, and not sure of the trim piece in question... Having "caveated" myself (LOL), when I removed the door sill trim on my 5 I found similar grommets and little tracks on the back of the trim. Spent a looooong time trying to make them all fit together, to no avail. Solution? Gently pry the grommets out of the holes they snap into. Be careful not to break the white tabs. They then slide into the tracks (They are actually designed to snap out/slide in.) In the event you break one, any auto body supply store has them. Hope this helps.
  • ping2ping2 Member Posts: 6
    I am looking at a '08 535 with sport package. Love the look and feel of this car (Steering ,head rests - seats, rims etc.). I am new to BMW's and have heard of horror stories of the run flats, especially on the low profiles ( mostly concerning the 330's). I have read that they are running into problems under 10k. Is this a general issue or specific to some of the 3 series?
  • bookedupbookedup Member Posts: 17
    ny540i6,
    Thanks for the reply. I tried also, for what seemed to be forever to get the white tabs (grommets) back into the door trim piece slots, to no avail. I finally stopped at my local dealer in Sewickley, Pa. My hat's off to them. Specifically Chris (in BMW Parts Dept). He came out to my car (during his lunch hour, I think) and borrowed some type of blue tool from a mechanic and pulled the white tabs out and aligned them in the track and re-inserted the trim piece for me. Super Service from Chris and BMW of Sewickley, Pa.
  • sirdarby1sirdarby1 Member Posts: 36
    I have a 2003 530i with 50,000 miles. On the digital odometer, the first 0 is half displayed. When I press the trip computer. There are one or two letters fading. Will this get progressively worse or is this as bad as it gets?

    I'd hate to have the dealership tear out the dashboard and cause other problems to surface.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    I'd hate to have the dealership tear out the dashboard and cause other problems to surface.

    Take it to the dealer if it's still under warranty; the R&R of the cluster is very simple. If not, see if the dealer will perform a good will repair.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • jb_shinjb_shin Member Posts: 357
    It is a known issue. BMW has been paying for the parts (if out of warranty) and you pay the labor,typically an hour. However, I have heard of dealers not being upfront or being "aware" of the program. You can probably google it and find the BMW NA contact information for this issue.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    It is a known issue. BMW has been paying for the parts (if out of warranty) and you pay the labor,typically an hour.

    Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think that BMW NA is only paying for parts when replacing the high level MID found on the E39 540i and M5. Still can't hurt to ask, I suppose...

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • jb_shinjb_shin Member Posts: 357
    I think you are right, but the same MID was available as option on the lesser e39s. I had it on my 02 530.
  • tanker4tanker4 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 525 and I purchased the 100000 mile warranty. The usually take it in if I have a problem or when the oil light turns yellow. I only have 80 miles left until I go over 100000 miles, should I take it in now or can I take it in. Is there a set 100000 mile service or does BMW use the oil light to schedule service, if I let it go over will I end up paying for all of the little parts filters etc.
  • warthogwarthog Member Posts: 216
    I have a 2003 530i (E39), several months out of warranty. When cornering right a bit harder than normal, or when turning right at a tight intersection, I hear a groaning noise from the front left wheel well. This happens with right turns only so I do not believe it's the power steering pump. Any ideas? Thanks.
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,370
    Coiuld be a bad wheel bearing, ball joint or tie rod end, all of which yo0u don't want to fool with. I'd have it checked out.

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    sounds like a strut mount or bearing.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,200
    Control arms/bushings?

    Edmunds Price Checker
    Edmunds Lease Calculator
    Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!

    Edmunds Moderator

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yeah, BMW is notorious for that but that's more of a thunk, not a groan, isn't it?

    Certainly worth checking though, excellent suggestion for any BMW making noise up front.

    visiting host
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,200
    Yes.. more of a thunk..

    However, it seems they are shot, every time they are checked... symptoms or not... :surprise:

    Edmunds Price Checker
    Edmunds Lease Calculator
    Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!

    Edmunds Moderator

  • warthogwarthog Member Posts: 216
    No, definitely a groan, like two parts rubbing together.

    Thanks for all the replies.
  • sydney14sydney14 Member Posts: 3
    :lemon: I had same problem with steering. After several visits, the entire steering column was replaced. Still hear it but rarely.
  • sydney14sydney14 Member Posts: 3
    I own 545i with Sport package and my first set of tires were roaring at 5000 mi. Dealer told me to drive my car more aggressively. After many complaints, they replaced the set at no charge. When the second set did the same thing and I had had numerous other visits, they replaced them again at no charge. There is a problem there they won't admit to. The tires sound like mud grips on a 4 wheel drive. This is my first and LAST BMW...big maintenance. :lemon:
  • sydney14sydney14 Member Posts: 3
    I own 545i 2004. Has anyone had transmission leakage? My car has been in 3 times in the last month for fluid leak. BMW finally replaced the complete pan and gasket. Don't know yet if it eliminated the problem. Car has 67,000 mi. :lemon:
  • udive200udive200 Member Posts: 1
    George, If you don't mind email me and let me know what you found out about the problem above. I have the same car same year doing the same thing, rough idle and after giving it gas it runs fine. Thanks Sean Sullivan spsullivan@cox.net
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Member Posts: 5,499
    Sean,

    Couple of things -- first, george. . . posted a month short of two years ago and hasn't been heard from since. He posted once -- if you put your arrow on the screen name, it'll tell you how many posts the person has, when they last posted, etc. You're very unlikely to hear from him, but there are others who prowl these boards regularly who may be able to help. Good luck.

    Second, don't post your e-mail address in the body of your post. You can put it in your profile if you like & leave it public. The robots that troll for addresses won't find it there.

    I can't help you. I'm just a BMW wannabe. Welcome aboard!
    '08 Acura TSX, '17 Subaru Forester
  • tlouietlouie Member Posts: 20
    This will be my first Bimmer, a 2008 528xi, does anyone know if the vehicle should be serviced more than the regular service intervals covered under free maintenance? oil change one a year seems like a long time. I am buying this vehicle vs. leasing. ANd what is actually needed for the first 4 years and does it pay to buy extended 2 yr. maintenance plan?
  • jdkochjdkoch Member Posts: 4
    The A/C blower fan is making a loud clicking sound as if
    something is interfering with the fan blade. What
    is the procedure to access the blower??
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Most likely the problem is with your VANOS cam timing system. Said system uses oil pressure to adjust the timing if each cam shaft by pressing against a spring loaded collar gear. As the seals wear out they are not able to maintain the neccessary oil pressure required to conteract the force of the springs, and as such the cams are mis-timed upon start-up. As the problem gradually worsens over a period that is typically a couple of years, idling of the engine becomes problematic regardless of how long it has been running or how recently the throttle was blipped.

    As I understand it, the repair at a dealership usually costs between five and six hundred dollars.

    Let us know how you make out.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    As a general statement, no, you don't need to maintain your car more often than is recommended by the Owner's Manual.

    Your specific question regarding oil changes is fairly easily addressed, consider the following:
    - Most six cylinder engines in the three liter range from most manufacturers have an oil capacity of between four and five quarts. Your new car uses seven.
    - Most modern ULEV (or better) engines (engines that produce FAAAAR fewer combustion byproducts than older engines) are able to go between six thousand and seventy-five hundred miles between oil changes, on conventional oil. Your car requires the use of a very high quality synthetic oil (most synthetics cannot meet the BMW LL-01 oil spec, and not a single conventional or semi-synthetic oil can).
    - Viewed as a whole, your very efficient (from a combustion perspective) engine with half again as much oil as most other engines of a similar size, and using only the best oil money can buy, can safely go the ~15,000 miles as recommended by BMW.
    - One other point. BMW has now been recommending a 15,000 mile OCI since the introduction of the E46 3-Series back in late 1998. If the 15,000 mile OCI is bad for the engines, we'd be seeing hundreds (if not thousands) of posts clogging up these sites complaining about failed engines. I've seen a handful, and in every case the engine was abused (i.e. run WAAAAY longer than 15,000 miles before the oil was changed and/or run far too low on oil).

    I hope this helps.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think some people can also run into problems with VANOS if they are using the wrong weight of oil, can't they?
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    That makes sense. That said, all accounts of VANOS acting up that I've been privy to were a result of worn oil control "O" rings in the VANOS assembly itself. Could it be that incorrect oil usage is responsible for the worn rings? Ain't no way I'd rule that possibility out.

    Based upon my very unscientific observations, there seems to be a very hit and miss nature to this problem. Take two seemingly identical cars, driven in seemingly identical conditions and using the same oil, and you might could well find that one runs perfectly while the other will be barely able to maintain an idle. Go figure.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I was thinking that if the oil is too heavy on cold start up, it won't work the hydraulics for the cam shift.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    If memory serves, the problem isn't that the oil is too heavy, it's that the oil is leaking past the "O" rings, thus reducing the pressure brought to bear against the VANOS spring. That said, you may have something there in that the oil would be far more likely to leak past the "O" rings when warmer/thinner than when cool in a newly cold-started engine.

    The absolute heaviest "cold" oil allowable (i.e. that meets the BMW LL-01 oil spec) is 5W-30. It would be interesting to see if the folks who've had the greatest incidence of problems are those that have used the factory BMW/Castrol 5W-30 engine oil versus those of us who converted our cars over to the thinner Mobil 1 0W-40 and/or Castrol Syntec 0W-30 oils.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • fordhorrorfordhorror Member Posts: 20
    My friend owns one of these. He has a rebuilt engine on it. The car is fine except it will take 10-20 seconds to strat , he has to keep turning the ksy give it gas for that time till the ignition kicks off. He says the mecahnic said it was a problem with some valves or something not sure what he said. am planning to buy this car from him but not sure if this is a safe buy, the rebuilt engine has 50k now.
    At the same time another guy is trying to sell me a 97 MITS eclipse with 73 k on it, looks runs nice. Whats your opinion?
  • tlouietlouie Member Posts: 20
    Thanks for info, do you know what maintenance is needed during the 4 yr. Ultimate Service and does it pay to purchase the 2yr. extended maintenance plan?
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Ummm, I'm not sure what the "4 yr. Ultimate Service" is, so I cannot comment. Regarding the extended maintenance plan, they seem to be something of a deal if you don't like DIY type of jobs. Personally I wouldn't bother as I do my own brakes and oil and filters and such, however, for someone not so inclined, the general consensus "buy it". ;-)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • tlouietlouie Member Posts: 20
    The 4 yr. Service I am inquiring about is the 4 year free maintenance included in the purchase of a new BMW. Wanted to know other than once a year oil changes what else is schedules and included. Do you also think the extended warranty is advisable since european cars are horrible with reliability. Don't know if BMW's have improved with 2008 models, it's why I am debating the 528xi over the 535xi since the 535xi is turbocharged. It's new and first year for this engine, don't know if kinks have ironed out yet.
  • jb_shinjb_shin Member Posts: 357
    Any scheduled maintenance that falls within the time period is covered, oil, coolant, wiper blade, brakes (pads and rotors), service inspection I, mobility package (tire sealant and pump) on M cars, etc.

    I am not sure I would call European cars' reliability as being horrible. Take it for what its worth, but My 2002 530i was the most reliable car I have ever owned (including the ownership experience by the person who bought it from me). My prior cars were 1981, 1989 and 1994 Accord, 1995 Integra, 1989 325iX wagon in Germany, 1993 Altima, 2004 Sienna, and 2003 M5.

    The 530i had zero repairs and cost the least to maintain. The current owner probably has about 60,000 to 70,000 miles on it. Our 95 Integra and the 04 Sienna had more service visits and warranty repairs by same or less mileage. My 03 M5 probably has had about the same number of service visits for warranty repairs as the Integra and the Sienna this point (53,000 miles) but the M5 repairs certainly would have cost a lot more if it had been out of warranty.
  • sirdarby1sirdarby1 Member Posts: 36
    Recently I purchased a CPO'd 51K miles and a chronic squeak comes and goes. Sounds like it may be from passenger side seat or window. it's like a plasticky vibration or unseated window sound. although faint it's extremely annoying. How can I direct the dealer without having to make excessive service calls.

    Also, another sporadic problem -- every now and then my steering has a whatI call -- a glitch in it. Seems like it kinda skips a beat when turning every so often. That's the only way to describe.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    Sounds like it may be from passenger side seat or window. it's like a plasticky vibration or unseated window sound. although faint it's extremely annoying.

    It could be the door or window gasket; does it stop when you lower the RF window a bit?
    My wife's E39 had a minor squeak and it turned out to be the door panel itself- rubbing against the metal of the inner door. It was especially audible if you pressed down on the door armrest. I took a piece of 3X5 card and sprayed both sides with Vinylex and then slid it between the door panel and the inner door. A small paint brush would also work. That cured the problem.

    Also, another sporadic problem -- every now and then my steering has a whatI call -- a glitch in it. Seems like it kinda skips a beat when turning every so often. That's the only way to describe.

    Is the PS reservoir filled to the proper level? If that's good, I'd next check the drive belts as well as all associated tensioners and pulleys. If they are good, then it is almost certainly a problem involving the pump or the steering rack itself.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • mhiaamhiaa Member Posts: 2
    Bought my BMW home. Sat in garage for 3 weeks. Battery went dead. Charged the battery. Vehicle is locked up - back wheels won't budge. Keeps asking for my code. Punch in my code, still nothing happens. Did like manual said; disconnected battery, tried again, hit code button, punch in code, hit sr button; still no luck. It starts up fine, I just can't get the back wheels to move. What am I doing wrong? Suggestions? Nearest dealer at least 50 miles away, and I can't drive anywhere anyhow. I bought it used(it's a 1991)at an auction. Ran fine, drove it home (a good 90 miles), drove it around, and now this. The previous owner, underneath where he wrote the code in his manual, also wrote "Press.hold.enter" Press hold what? Any help would be truly appreciated. I've never owned one before.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    The code function only disables the ignition system. Since the car "starts up fine" the OBC code is not the problem. It sounds like either the parking brake is stuck or one(or both) rear calipers have seized.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    agree with roadburner. This is not a code problem this is a brake or caliper problem.
  • mhiaamhiaa Member Posts: 2
    Appreciate the input. Will have that checked. Still refuses to accept the code so now the radio and stuff doesn't work. Any input on that, just how to do it correctly, step by step? Maybe I'm not doing it right? What's the chances of both rear caliphers seizing at the same time or is that something normal? Any idea why? Thank you. Melissa
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    No it's not normal but if you leave a car parked with the emergency brake on it's possible it can hang up. Especially an old car. Believe me, there is no anti-theft device that locks your rear wheels.

    I think the "press hold enter" refers to programming the 1-6 buttons for different stations.

    I don't see why you have to go to a BMW to free up the emergency brake...any competent shop should be able to figure that out. If the calipers froze that's a bit tricky. I bet it's not the first time that's happened in that car.

    Was this vehicle stored for a long time?
  • gohorns1gohorns1 Member Posts: 53
    I am buying a 535i, should be here in a few weeks. I tend to hold on to cars and can see keeping this car for 6 or more years, if all goes well. I am trying to get information regarding the extended warranty. Is it worth purchasing the warranty and if so, is it better to buy it now or wait until the end of the 4-year warranty. Any suggestions are appreciated.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If you are keeping the car after standard warranty, and you are also driving a lot of miles, I think the extended warranty is a good idea...but if you aren't a high mile driver, I'm not so sure it's worth the expense. I think (just my two cents) that out-of-warranty 5 series BMWs that are pushing 100K are a bit scary. Not in terms of major failures, mind you, but in terms of electrical glitches, suspension issues, cooling system issues, that sort of thing.

    Were it a Honda I'd say you could bear this type of expense out of warranty, but even smaller repairs on an aging BMW can add up fast.

    I guess it depends a lot on the actual inclusions and exclusions and deductibles on the particular warranty program you're getting. You have to read it carefully and then figure out how your warranty would relate say to a new radiator at 80,000 miles, or a complete failure of all your power windows at 90,000. How much would be covered in those instances and what would you pay out of pocket?

    I'd ask some pointed questions about all that to whomever is selling you the product.

    Visiting Host
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,200
    I'd wait... you have 4yr/50K coverage already... And, if you drive 10K or less per year, then the extended warranty will be really expensive for not that much coverage..

    Of course, if you put 50K on in three years, then it might be worth it, but I'd still wait until I was closer to the end of the original warranty period.

    or.. what he said..

    regards,
    kyfdx
    visiting host

    Edmunds Price Checker
    Edmunds Lease Calculator
    Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!

    Edmunds Moderator

  • cmr530icmr530i Member Posts: 278
    I bought my 5er new in 2001. This is what I did when deciding about an extended warranty. I waited until the 4 year warranty was almost up (since you can purchase the extended warranty at any time) so that I could see just how reliable my car was. As it turned out, the car was and, at 6 years old, continues to be incredibly reliable. In addition, I considered the advice of the very wise and knowledgeable on this site. As a result, I pocketed the money that I would have spent on a plan and use it for any repairs as needed. Good luck with your decision.
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Member Posts: 5,499
    C,

    Good to hear. I would tend to take your approach, and I'm glad it's worked out for you.
    '08 Acura TSX, '17 Subaru Forester
Sign In or Register to comment.