BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair

dukiedoug · April 2008

I am looking at getting a used 530, but one thing i dont like is the drivers seat is too low, even with it elevated as far as power controls will take it. I have a short torso so i need something that gets me up there. Has anyone ever heard of someone modifying the driver seat, to provide more lift than it come from factory? Does anyone know of any auto shops that might do this? I have also looked at infiinitis and their power controls are great, I just dont like that they eat gas. BMW 530 seems to be much more fuel efficient.

Mr_Shiftright · April 2008

I think for liability reasons most shops would never alter a seat anchoring. However, you might think about an upholstery shop padding it up an inch or two. Also BWM seats have been known to collapse if they've had a heavy driver. Why don't you see if a 1" pillow (as an experiment, not a solution) gives you the height you need? 1" is within the realm of possibility for an upholsterer.

feroz · April 2008

Hi; I own a 2002 530. There is a problem with the cranck shaft sensor. Or so the computer says. The car runs fine and I have been told this code appear very often on BMW and driver just can´t notice any problem with the car. My question is, how can this happen?, It sounds pretty bad to loose info on the crankshaft positioning and yet the car runs fine......
One the repair is done should I expect better low end torque, better MPG or what?

Thanks!

Mr_Shiftright · April 2008

The computer is probably sensing some fluctuations in the Crankshaft Sensor---which fortunately don't seem to be severe enough to produce any symptoms. These sensor outputs can be tested by diagnostic equipment. Whether your car will run any better is hard to say, as it is all relational (better than what?).

Here's a YouTube video on these sensors with an obnoxious soundtrack, but it does tell you the different types of crankshaft sensors and how they work. I'm not sure which one your BMW uses but it's probably the most complicated one :P

Mr. Dull EngineerTalks About Crankshaft Sensors

PS: Turn down your volume, this soundtrack is LOUD.

ndegroat1 · April 2008

My 1999 528i's alarm goes off nightly b/t 2:00-2:30 (I'm sure the time does not matter) no sign of foul play. Wondering- is the computer sending this bad signal or do the batteries in the key fob need to be replaced? I have secure parking while at the office, so I leave it unlocked during the day, but the alarm goes off when I lock it in other areas.
We have on the street parking and we love this vehicle (with it's 232 G miles) but I know my neighbors want to put this car out of commission as much as I do.
Thanks!
Niki

feroz · April 2008

Thanks; saw the video. I´m still puzzled as to why such an important imput may be failing and the cars runs Ok, Will replace the sensor and let you know what happens.

Mr_Shiftright · April 2008

I can only assume that the variance is large enough for the engine light to detect but not large enough for the driver to detect.

andys120 · April 2008

I had a similar problem with the VANOS Control Module. The CEL came on and the diagnostic codes indicated a problem with the VCM. I was tempted to do a "black tape repair" as the car ran just fine, mileage was unchanged.

The techs told me that I'd probably experience a gradual decline in performance so I elected to replace it because I had partial warranty coverage.

jonings · April 2008

I bought a 1988 JDM E34 535i with 146k Kilometres last year. After a head gasket and oil gasket, it's good to go...except someone broke in, and smashed the deck and center computer out of it, and cut through all of the wiring harnesses in the dash... :mad: OKay, fine, wtvr, however the fuel gauge, temp gauge, speedo, odometer and tach don not function properly, the low fuel light does work however. The Speedo and tach function some times, and other times fluctuate wildy in comparison to actual road speed and engine speed...any clues? Also, at start up, the car makes a sound like that of a loud digital camera with a zoom lense...what is that? And lastly, it appears that there is 2 intakes on the vehicle...but only one air filter box, with the "other intake" piping into what appears to be some sort of belt driven contraption on the engine, w/out any filtration, if it were a super or turbo charger would that air not need to be filtered? or is that the exhaust charge piping being routed back into it? I really no little about this particular car as info is hard to come by, any suggestions would help

bmwgal3 · May 2008

I had the same problem with my 2004 545i's seat. I am 5'5' and the driver's seat was very uncomfortable. I needed a 1.5inch pillow (I used a very firm lumbar support pillow) to sit on, just so that the seat's comfort was tolerable. I drove around like that for 3 years, embarrassed every time I pulled in for valet parking or carwash. When I was looking for my next car, I was very turned off by BMW b/c of the seat problem. Someone on this board recommended the comfort seats. I was doubtful, but I tried it and it is great. I now have a 2008 535i with the comfort seats, no pillow needed. What a relief! I recommend you look for a car w/ comfort seats so you don't have to pretend you look cool sitting on a phone book for the next few years! :shades:

dukiedoug · May 2008

Thanks for your input. I will definitely keep that in mind. However, I think I have decided on going with the infiniti g35, their power seats have more than enough lift for me. But thanks again for your suggestion. I definitely do like the 5 series and will not rule them out of my next purchase.

cindysuecj · May 2008

My battery is completely dead and we are trying to figure out how to replace it...all we can find from the manual is that it is in the trunk...what next? Also, after reading some posts, it sounds like it might just need to be recharged..is it best to jump it with another car or to use a Battery Tender..if so, how do we do it? How long should an original battery last? I have not been driving it much and maybe have gradually drained it? Mileage is 63K. Please help!!

roadburner · May 2008

If it's completely dead you should probably go ahead and get a new battery. I've had good luck with Interstate batteries. The MTP-H7 is the one you want. And yes, if you don't drive the car very much I'd invest in a good battery tender, such as the one BMW sells.

cindysuecj · May 2008

I charged the battery on 2005 525i after it was completely dead. Now it will start, but the wipers are on and will not turn off! HELP! I thought maybe it had to do with resetting something? went to the computer to look, and message came up saying:

pass. restraint malfunction
cruise control malfunction
wind shield wiper malfunction

Any ideas? Would installing a brand new battery help or is this different? It all started when the battery died.

Mr_Shiftright · May 2008

Burner is right, probably a new battery is in order. And NEVER jump start a totally completely dead battery in any event, no matter what you choose to do. You could lose the top of your head, which you will probably need. Charge up the old one *slowly*.

davis101 · May 2008

you must check the alternator--replaced my battery before i checked it and could have saved some money. oh well new battery is good for 7 yeaars.

Mr_Shiftright · May 2008

Oh I think burner and I (if I may speak for him) were talking about how if a battery discharges completely and totally, it is usually injured by that process and thus its normal lifespan no longer applies.

roadburner · May 2008

I've also found that bad batteries can cause all sorts of mischief in the newer gadget-laden Bimmers. Inoperative switches, phantom fault indications- you name it.

Mr_Shiftright · May 2008

computers freak out if voltage drops below a minimum, no doubt about it. And modern cars have something like 75 microprocessors in them.

redflea · May 2008

I have my 1995 530i (small block 3.0 liter V8) in at a local indie shop. They have a factory trained BMW mechanic who is having problems solving a problem...I get sudden power loss at about 4000 RPM.

If I get up to that RPM, the power loss is complete until the revs fall, and the check engine light comes on.

Any thoughts as to what to look for, things to check/try? My mechanic is stuck and scratching his head...the short block was replaced under warranty in 1999, so it isn't related to the old problem with sulfur and the original alusil engine blocks in the mid-90s V8s.

Thanks!

davis101 · May 2008

Try the fuel pump regulator filter. It took 4 different shops to recognize this problem. Strange filter setup on bimmers.
David

redflea · May 2008

Thanks...so you had a similar problem w/power loss at a certain RPM that was resolved by the filter?

Mr_Shiftright · May 2008

fuel pressure---yes, good idea.

Also, has he by-passed or tested the catalytic or checked for a damaged (crunched) exhaust pipe.

What code is the engine light throwing?

redflea · May 2008

Thanks - I didn't get the code before I took it in, and forgot to ask them.

I'll pass on the suggestion regarding the catalytic, the exhaust pipe is fine, I did take a look at the underside of the car for another reason, and didn't see anything out of the ordinary.

tcsyk · May 2008

:confuse: I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW HOW TO REMOVE THE DOOR PANEL ON A 2004 BMW 5 SERIES.

ny540i6 · May 2008

Had the 4 wheel alignment done on the 540 yesterday, since I've switched over to the summer Goodyears a few weeks ago. Was pleasantly surprised at how many of my "before" readings were in spec. The anal part of me looks at the "after" results and wishes that the car was identical in all measurements side to side, but...

I also finally changed the battery, after having one or two instances where I had to roll start the car (manual tranny, fortunately). I've gone since '03 and 149K miles on the original, so no complaints there. I'm using an Interstate MTP93 as the replacement.

On another note, I'm looking to replace/upgrade the rotors, and maybe the pads. I don't want a big brake kit, don't want cross drilled, might be willing to consider slotted or dimpled. All I'm looking for is an antidote to the warping/vibration that I sometimes get after a couple high speed slowdowns. It goes away once the rotors cool, but it is still annoying.

Any suggestions are welcomed.

lovemyclk · May 2008

Just replaced my battery and alternator care of BMW on my '03 530SP. OEM battery lasted 55K miles, but believe the alternator was the cause. Also had my rotors/pads replaced when buying my new PZero Nero's from my Custom Wheel/Tire shop in Atlanta - also the high-speed on car balance.

Went with BMW-spec rotors/pads, not the cross-drilled options from Baer or Brembo. Never had any warping on the originals, just wore them down.

lovemyclk · May 2008

My recent drive from FL to Atlanta over Memorial Day introduced my beautiful '03 e39 to some road gravel on the FL Turnpike outside Orlando. Have some deep pits and a 4" hairline crack right at the rear-view mirror location. Just damn :mad:

Mainly an aesthetic concern, but does anyone have experience and recommendations for replacing the windshield?

Many thanks!

ny540i6 · May 2008

I've repaced a windshield about 30K miles ago. First the bad news: That crack will probably spread, so sooner or later you are gonna need new glass. Don't waste your time with those services that promise to "repair" the pitting or stop the crack - it don't work too good

I know, I blew $50 on "fixing" a chip.

Now the good news: The E39 is rigid enough that it handles removal/replacement well. The new one is most probably going to be tougher - the original glass is somewhat soft, and pits easily. My replacement is not looking sandblasted yet. Any reputable glass house will do the job, and it should cost a couple hundred bucks.

andys120 · May 2008

I'm wishing for one of those cracks on my MY 2000 5 Series, with 105K it has a badly pitted windshield which I'd love to be able to replace courtesy of my comprehensive.

Funny thing is, I drive on rough unpaved roads all the time and The Blue Max is as solid as ever, windshield included, despite a small chip on the glass.

redflea · May 2008

Most insurance companies will replace your windshield if it's been "sandblasted" enough over time to make visibility an issue when the sun is low...

andys120 · May 2008

Really, I'll have to look into that.

lovemyclk · May 2008

Thanks... sounds like replacement will be less than my deductable. Need someone who understands how to do the e39, as the r.v. mirror is attached to the windshield. Will start looking for good glass houses in the ATL area. BTW, I did have some pits repaired a couple of years ago - some sort of epoxy process, I believe. Pits were filled in and smoothed over, but there are little opaque spots. Will just replace the whole thing this time.

Assuming you can't tell your glass was replaced by looking at it up close?

ny540i6 · May 2008

Assuming you can't tell your glass was replaced by looking at it up close?

No, it is not at all detectable.

andys120 · July 2008

I am considering driving out to Arizona this fall from New Hampshire in my '00 528iA.
The car is in good shape and drives beautifully and reliably at 106K miles. I'll probably pick up another 2000 or so miles before I set out on the 2500 mile trek.

The car got a prophylactic radiator replacement at 94K as well as the Inspection 2 service. V-belts and PS hoses were also replaced and the A/T was serviced. pads, rotors and fluids were done as well.

I'll plan to change the differential fluid before I go and have the brakes bled again. I'm wondering if I should replace the water pump as these seem problematic on some E39s.

Any opinions on that or any other precautions?

PS, the car has a fresh coat of wax, I've seen what that AZ sun can do to a finish, the ultraviolet dulls the paint something fierce.

ny540i6 · July 2008

I'd replace both the water pump and the thermostat while I'm at it.

My '03 540 is about due (148K on the clock) and I'm doing all that before the end of the summer, in addition to a bit of a brake upgrade.

lovemyclk · July 2008

Is this your 1st PS hose replacement? I have 59K (in-service date - 1/03) on my '03 530SP odo and the dealer recently "suggested" replacing both PS hoses. Could you ballpark the cost where you live (I'm in Georgia)? Taking to an independent for a 2nd opinion and, hopefully, a new service relationship!

Dealer also suggested replacing main drive belt, but said there was "no immediate danger"! I want to trust them, but...

timbmw · July 2008

I have a 1998 528i. I can not open the lid on the storage compartment between the front seats. It has a factory phone which which locks into the top out side of the lid. I'm wondering since the phone is there does that somehow cause the factory to seal the lid?

andys120 · July 2008

I dunno PS Hoses were ever changed before I got the car but it's my first set in the 4yrs and 62K miles I've had it.

As for the "main drive belt", assuming it's the V-belt that drives the alternator, w pump etc, a replacement at 60K miles doesn't sound unreasonable.

ny540i6 · July 2008

OK, so this evening the 540 decided that it was not going to start. Drove fine all day, in some 90 degree weather, quite a bit of stop/go/slow traffic, with no problems. I park for a bit (about 30 minutes) and when I try to restart, nothing. I don't believe it is the battery, since I replaced that a few weeks ago, and everything else operates as normal (windows, lights, horn etc). I don't believe it's the alternator, since I replaced that about 10-15K ago, and there was no gradual degradation, charging light etc. I was able to roll start the machine (manual tranny) and drove around for another 40 minutes, with all accessories off, just in case. Back in driveway, shut off, immediate attempt at restart... nothing.

Any other thoughts besides starter? (Which, BTW, I've NOT ever replaced).

roadburner · July 2008

Any other thoughts besides starter?

I'd load test the battery(could be an infant mortality) and make sure that all cable connections are clean and tight.

ny540i6 · July 2008

Thanks Road, for reminding me of the basics.... always start with simplest, cheapest option

roadburner · July 2008

Back in the '80s one of my friends spent the better part of a day diagnosing a similar problem on his E12 528i. He even pulled the starter. The culprit was a bit of corrosion on the engine to body ground cable. He wound up describing the experience in a Roundel article...

lovemyclk · July 2008

Thx for the feedback. I'm getting a 2nd set of eyes to take a look next week and will report back regarding the PS hoses and main drive belt. Guessing labor will be the major cost element if the work needs to be performed. Assuming the PS hoses must handle fairly high pressures, which may account for slightly higher material cost for them...

hihomike · July 2008

I'm frustrated and disgusted. I've owned a new 5 series BMW for each of the last 5 years. In June, 2007, I took delivery of my new 535i Sedan equipped with Premium, Comfort Access, Rear Electric Shade, Logic 7, HD Radio and Sirius. From the onset, whenever it rained heavily for 4 or so hours, the next morning I would start the car and get the message "High Battery Drain When Car Stopped". My dealer could not resolve the problem for almost 8 months. BMW finally decided to replace my vehicle, so I ordered an identical vehicle. I took delivery in June, 2008, and guess what? Same problem.

They now have my new vehicle at service for 4 days, and they said it is the same error message they get out of my computer when they plug in their reader as the other car. They said they are waiting for BMW to come up with a fix, but in the meantime, 2 in a row???? I have to believe others have had problems like mine because the odds of it happening only to me are astronomical. BMW says it hasn't happened on any other vehicles. I don't believe that. What should I do? I requested that they replace my vehicle again, but no response.

As the problem ages, the car gets harder to start as the battery keeps discharging, and only in heavy rain. They've repalced every conceivable part, still not solution. And now I have the same problem with the brand new one with 230 miles on it.

Thanks All.

uniqone · July 2008

I should a buy the bmw 530ix awd or the Lexus gs300awd. Which one cost less for maintenance

scolmena · July 2008

Hi, I am in the market for 02 540. Saw one with 50k and one with 100k. The latter is all around in nicer shape and cheaper. The 50k miler was a theft recovery with major interior damage, apparently mechanically sound. I am looking for reliable weekend car. What should I look to replace right off the bat on the 100k and at what cost? Tires and brakes are in good shape. I see some posts here regarding water pump, belts and hoses. I would be paying way below kbb by the way.

Thanks all

andys120 · July 2008

You'd better be paying way below book for a theft recovery. I doubt a trashed interior would be cheap to fix. I'm not sure how it could cost more than the 100K car (if I'm reading your post right).

I wouldn't buy either without a thorough inspection by a BMW specialist who should be able to tell you what maintainence and replacements are needed.

tayl0rd · August 2008

Yeah, that's like asking, "Should I sleep on a bed of razor blades or should I swallow needles." I wouldn't touch either one of those because either one could put you in a world of hurt (financially) if something goes wrong. Then again, if the theft car is being offered at 15 grand or less... I also have a coworker who bought a '99 (I think) 540i Sport with a buttload of miles (>100K) on it and he hasn't had any problems that I know of...

I, on the other hand, have a brand-spanking new 550i Sport and have had to have the engine wiring harness replaced. So, as always, it's still a crap-shoot w/ German cars. :sick:

Mr_Shiftright · August 2008

Is this "theft recovery" under salvage title. If so, you can throw KBB away, as you are looking at a severe market devaluation for salvage title.

On the 100K car, that's just about time for suspension work (getting tired), control arm bushings, and of course cooling system problems as we all know.

Looks like an '02 in decent but not spectacular shape with 100K miles should be selling privately for around $12,000 retail.

BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair

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