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Guys, wha'ts with the chrome trim around the door frame? I hate that chrome, I prefer the solid black look. Why do some have the solid black, but most have the chrome? How do I get the 528i in solid black trim around the doors/windows?? Another reason why I loved the 535i I looked at. It's a minor thing, but it's aesthetic with me.
BMW calls the black trim "Shadowline". If you are ordering a car and have a very good dealer, they might-repeat, MIGHT-be able to get the Shadowline installed on your car. Probably won't be cheap, however. Of course you can always order the trim and install it yourself(which is what I'd do) or have a good body shop install it.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
2021 Toyota Venza Limited Hybrid, 2022 Ram 2500 Laramie 6.4 Hemi, 2007 Mazda MX-5 Miata PRHT
I know; I assumed he just wanted the trim...
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Thank you for your help!
Jan
first, my heater controls have become "possessed" regardless of what temp i select on either heat or ac, the fan motor blows erratically, switching from fast to slow, back to fast in a matter of seconds and just keeps doing that the entire time. this happens if i have it on auto, or floor, etc. if i try to manually control the fan with the + or - control it does no good. it is so bad i can't even use the heat
second, my windshield wipers will only go up, get stuck at the top and then i hear a "wurrrr" sound from under the windshield and they stop. I can give them a push with my hand to get them back down, and they seem to be free and nothing blocking them, and when i turn them on and manually help them along with my hand nothing seems to be binding, but if i let them go they'll stop in the same place every time.
fianally, my check engine light is on again, and the code is coming up cam shaft position sensor"B". This will be my third time replacing this same sensor, they only seem to last about 30k miles before they fail. I'm using a genuine bmw replacement partany idea what wold keep causing this to fail?
i could really use some good advice as finances are tight and i really can't afford another $2000 bmw service repair bill.
I cannot help you on your other issues.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
When you say dead easy DIY, where do I find the unit and is there any info (web site?) that explains the installation procedure?
Thanks,
Jan
PS Same for the rear windshield wiper, I can't find any info about how to replace the arm.
I've never had to deal with a rear wiper on a touring; perhaps this parts diagram will be of some help.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
has there been any technical issues with navigation? Im looking at a CPO 2007 530i (29K miles) that has nav, and all the packages (sports, premium, cold, and one more can't remember) car is beautiful asking $34,900 for it, with negotation some wiggle room. I just want to be sure I'm not looking for a problem with the navigation which I don't even care about, but the vehicle has it. Car is really loaded, would hate to pass it up.
Also another one 2007 530xi, 18K miles, warranty expires Apr 2014. Asking $36,900 dealer won't budge. That's another 2 grand, but warranty goes longer. Am torn, don't know what to do. I'm leaning toward the $34,900 one, has more. Dealer says his 530xi is competitive in price. I could care less about all wheel drive.
That extended warranty is tempting however.
Any advice?
Living in Germany, I just bought a 1996 520i Touring with 200,000 kilometers (German specs). It's idling at 1,000 rpm, hovering over 4,000 rpm at 35 mph in third gear, and redlining just above 6,000 rpm in fifth at 80mph. But, it's not running hot and it doesn't feel or sound like the engine is straining. The fuel gauge is broken (reading empty at all times) but the speedometer and temperature gauges seem to be operating normally. This is my first BMW (when in Germany....) so I'm not sure if they typically run at higher rpms, if maybe the tachometer is malfunctioning, if there's some kind of "adjustment" I can make, or if it's simply a mechanical problem. It's getting a tune-up in a couple of weeks, but should I be concerned about driving it on the autobahn until then?
Any comments are greatly appreciated!
Other than that the rev ranges you're quoting are similar to what I get w my '00 528iA except for idle speed which sounds a tick high. How's your gas mileage?
I'm sure the guy who does your tune-up can help you sort it out.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Yep, it's a 2.0 six cylinder and it redlines in fifth at 80mph. At least that's what the tach is telling me. I'll keep it under 80 until I sort this out, but that kinda defeats the purpose of having bought it in the first place.
Today was my first day driving it so I can't speak to the gas mileage yet...plus the inop fuel gauge is going to make that calculation a bit dicey.
My only concern with the tune-up is the dealer who sold it to me is performing the service. It's a condition of the limited warranty I get (free labor, pay for parts--which are pretty cheap and plentiful in Bavaria). I'm hopeful they'll take care of it, but I wanted to fish for red flags, silver bullets, and general thoughts before engaging the dealer.
Thanks again for your comments.
That can't be right, BMWs are made to cruise at high speeds. In fact very few cars will reach redline in top gear at all, they're usually geared so that you can only hit redline in the lower gears and are actually faster in fourth than they are in fifth (5-speed trannies).
My 528iA ('00 E39) is doing about 3000rpm @ 80mph in fifth (5sp-Steptronic). I think I'd have to go down to second to redline it at 80.
Now you've piqued my curiosity. Let us know what they say.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
It might be moot at this point--I drove it in to work for the first time today and after I parked, it wouldn't shut off and the steering wheel locked up. I turned the key back and forth without "catching" anything and it just wouldn't shut off. After about 10 minutes of pushing, pulling, turning the key, I sat there unsure of what to do. Then, for no apparant reason, it shut off on its own. Now when I turn the key, it doesn't engage the ignition and it won't start. Sounds like there's a whole lot of bad something going on with the entire steering column and dash.
The dealer's 300 kilometers away, but I'm going to try today to get them to come put it on a truck, take it in and fix whatever's going on.....or refund my money and I'll start over again. I'll let you know how it turns out......
I have a 1996 328i, 106K miles, yesterday I was driving and had problem with the driver's power window. It sounded like it was breaking the glass and wouldn't bring the window back up. I was able to coax it up to about 2" from the top, and left it alone. I drove it to BMW dealer this morning with no appt. They told me it would probably be the window regulator, figure about $375 for it. I also told them to go ahead and do an oil change since I hadn't had one since last svc which was exactly one year ago. Haven't spent a dime on the car since last year.
They told me they probably wouldn't even look at the car until late today, possibly even Tuesday.
Within one hour of arriving at work (they gave me a ride) they called me. Yup, window regulator, $375, oil change $160, had a break lite out, they replaced bulb.
I thought that was pretty good service.
Just my luck, I'm searching for another CPO, and I'm within weeks probably of getting one. Here I had to spend this money, but you know what, I couldn't go to a dealer and trade in a car with an inactive power window, now could I. As it is, they're going to give me nothing for the car probably, I'll be lucky if they give me $500 for it.
I always use BMW for oil changes. Valvoline confuses me, tries to upsell me on stuff I dont' understand (synthetic oil, etc, is that OK to use? I don't have a clue). I figure take it to BMW, it's their vehicle, they know exactly what to do. So it costs me double. I have peace of mind, and that's priceless to me.
- - BMW 5W-30 (typically available only from the dealer
- - Mobil 1 0W-40 (typically available at AutoZone, WalMart, and NAPA)
- - Castrol Syntec 0W-30 (often available at AutoZone, however, you may need to order it)
Valvoline oils (since you mentioned using them for oil changes):
- - Valvoline Synpower 5W-30 MST (I've never found this in any store)
- - Valvoline Synpower 5W-40 HST (I've never found this in any store)
Since you are inclined to use the dealer for your service, the above may be useless information; however, if you ever find yourself needing an oil change and your dealer isn't convenient, then you're good to go.
Best regards,
Shipo
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Thank you guys for that advice. Shipo, I always use the dealer, so I don't have to worry about it. But I made a note of those specs for future reference just in case.
Really appreciate it. Thanks so much.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Pursuant to my above servicing, I have been having also a problem with the ABS light illuminating on the dash whilst driving. I told the BMW tech about it. They took the car out for a test drive before working on it, and noticed nothing wrong. Then when the car was done, they took it out for a second test drive (seems like a lot for just an oil change and power window regulator repair, doesn't it?) and then they did notice the light. The light I'm referring to is a circle with a triangle inside. All of a sudden, it will illuminate while I"m driving.
I don't know why.
They told me make another appt. and bring the car in, they couldn't address the issue today.
Any ideas what that could be? The total of the above job, btw, was $639.00 Not cheap by any means, but again, that's all I spent on that car in the past 12 months.
Jayrider, thanks that sound advice. I hesitate to sell it personally, because I don't like the idea of surrendering my identity to someone. If something goes wrong with the car, I don't want them showing up at my doorstep over it, you know what I mean? What do you think I could get as a trade in on a CPO?
will also appear in yellow. Replacing the Sensor will add another $100 or so to your tab, less if it's merely dirty.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Tell me, are the other 5s out there low in mileage too?
I'm thinking about picking up a 2003 540i 6M Sport with 76,000 miles on it. It looks brand new.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Actually, I want a 5 series. 3 series is too small. I am the family driver, so I often have more than myself. We're just a little cramped in the 3. Actually the CPO 3's are only about $3K less in price than the 5 i'm looking at.
Again, if I get one, it's a purchase, not a lease. I hope I can get the $2,000 for it. Unfortunately, the dealer who fixes it is not the one with the 5 series I want.
to NY540: I bought the car in 1999 CPO with 33K miles on it. I put about 6K miles per year on it only. I work for a company that provides "transit cheks" (if you live inthe NYC area, you know what that is) so why should I drive when they pay for my commute? But I love to drive and I can't wait to try out a 530i. I've never driven a 5 series.
The battery thing you mention is a possibility, the battery was almost dead a few weeks ago. No previous signs, then just wouldn't turn the engine one morning. I charged it up and it has been fine since. But maybe it isn't fine. The car is now 8 years old, about 69K, the battery probably original. Eight years is probably near the end of battery life, isn't it? But I am worried that something may be draining it without any signs. Thanks for the tip.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I can tell you from experience that a bad battery can cause weird things in any modern car. I had a similar issue to those in a '91 Taurus SHO that were caused by a bad battery.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
My 1996 328i had the original battery in it until 2007 when I had to replace it. That's a pretty good life for a battery woudln't you say. Cost me $300 at the dealer, I know you think I'm NUTS, but peace of mind, I told you, I'm willing to pay for it.
One thing that doesn't work anymore, though, is the moonroof. About two years ago, it would not close. So I took it to the dealer and they told me major job and major money to fix it. Needed a new carriage or something like that, around $1300. I said just shut it and disable the switch. To this day, it doesn't work.
That's what I notice about these BMW.s'. The engine is just as full of pep and vim and vigor as it was when I bought it CPO in 1999. It's incredible. That engine has never failed me. But the peripheral stuff goes on the vehicle. The brake light because the housing has something wrong. The ABS light coming on. The moonroof. Power window this week. But the car is 12 years old, so I cannot get upset about it. Let's face it. But I cannot envision myself driving a Lexus, or anything but a BMW. Nothing excites me like a BMW. I get choked up thinking about trading it in, but I know that eventually I have to. It's 12 years old, going on 13.
LOL. You must think I'm nuts.
Best regards,
Shipo
All due respect to you, you sound like a knowledgeable person, but I looked at the CTS just by chance in Greenwich CT, the price of new is mid $40's to upper $40's.
A certified cannot possibly be in the mid $20's, that would place it along with the Audi 4 pre owned models. The CTS is an expensive vehicle. It looks spectacular, btw, but Caddy unfortunately has a reputation of being a vehicle for older people. Cannot remotely compare to the sportiness of a BMW 5 series. Though I loved the look of it, I have to admit.
LOL. You must think I'm nuts.
I don't think you're nuts for loving your old Bimmer, I'm keeping a 9 y/o 528iA and I love it too. I do think you're nuts to pay the stealer prices to keep it on the road. You could probably get that moonroof fixed at half what the dealer wants if you went to any competent auto body shop.
Like Roadburner and Shipo I've had excellent luck and enjoyed decent repair costs by going to an independent local BMW specialist not currently affiliated w a dealer.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93