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Drive belts- both belts should cost no more than $85. One hour to install, tops.
Stabilizer end link- the link should cost around $40 with one hour of installation.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Regards
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
has anyone compiled a list of "typical" repairs and maintenance items/costs for the current generation BMW 5-series (non-turbo models)? I see many questions in this forum about extended warranties and maintenance programs. Are they worth the money, what to expect, etc. It would be very helpful for all those considering buying a used 5 series to understand what the repair and maintenance costs of a typical model will be (assuming average millage) for the first 100K miles or so.
Thanks!
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Can some one recommend me the cheap and best winter tires? my tires are old and I havenot changed them since I bought them, is that why I see the stering shaking when I apply brakes at 60mph or more speed?
Thanks
Prasanna
As for winter tires, Bridgestone Blizzaks have gotten me thru New Hampshire winters with no serious problems. They are not the cheapest (about $500 for 4) but tires are the last place I'd want to cheap out.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Any ideas on what could be used to clean and polish the chrome around the doors? Thanks
Has anyone else with a 2008 535I experienced this problem or heard about it?
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
The symptoms are as follows:
1. Sputtering of the engine when trying to start.
2. Delayed start
I learned per the BMW service advisor that the HPFP provides pressure for the fuel line when the engine is off. When the HPFP fails, it does not provide the pressure so the start delays and hence the sputtering.
BMW of Fremont fixed it in one day.
They replaced the HPFP, tested the car, waited, and tested it again. So far so good but we’ll see. Hope this post helps.
Many thanks!
Fluid change is listed at only 1.8 hours, so that must be without removing the oil pan.
The question is, therefore---is a filter change required at 100K or it is a "lifer"?
1. If I use Mobile synthtic oil, should the interval every one year or 12 thousand miles?
2. Can I use the aftermarket oil filter purchased from other auto shops or better use the one from BWM parts department?
Thanks!
Best thing I can say about oil changes is that if you are going to extend the oil change beyond manufacturer's recommendations, get an oil analysis periodically, and then you KNOW what's going on.
Problem is that BMW doesn't give any recommendation other than changing when indicated by the service interval indicators which for some drivers is as long as
15,000 miles. Many owners and some techies consider such intervals absurdly long, particularly in the case of the initial oil change. IIRC Mike Miller, the service guru at Roundel recommends changes at not more than 10000 mile intervals.
My BMW Indie techs recommend 5000 mile intervals, which seems excessive in the other direction but since I think it's a good idea to have your car looked at by a pro every season, I generally change every 5 or 6K.
BMW also requires that you use their proprietary oil, which IIRC is actually relabeled Castrol Syntec. I'm sure any similarly rated synthetic would suffice.
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2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Were it my car, I'd either do 7500 or oil analysis, either one.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Join the BMW CCA (car club), and a lot of dealer parts departments will give you 10%-20% off your purchases, and you'll get a cool monthly magazine from the club..
regards,
kyfdx
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some German cars are so sensitive to oil filters that if you use an off-brand, the hydraulic valve lifters will start to malfunction and the car won't start! (certain Audi models).
So yeah, it does matter.
Since most of BMW cars are rear wheel drive, are those two rear tires consumed more than front one? Thus, should tire rotation performed every 5000 miles?
Thanks for the advise!
Bimmers have good weight distribution which helps and not many have enough torque to really chew up the rears (M s excepted). That said tires should be inspected regularly for signs of poor wear or misalignment. In the past, BMWs had a tendency to wear tires on the outer edges, particularly the rears.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
As for the strong exhaust odor, it sounds like your plugs are fouling on start up---either due to a dripping injector, or leaking valve stem seals. Do you burn some oil, or you don't know yet?
Probably the pump is shot, another typical problem. You can test the pump with some wires off your battery or putting a test light on the connections and flipping the switch.
even in winter driving. That's a cheap fix and so is a replacement wiper motor but check the fuse first.
Don't know why yours runs rough on startup, perhaps the EFI isn't making the mixture rich enough, could be a bad sensor or bad coil. If the odor you're getting is sulfurous, you might have a plugged catalytic converter.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
So you start up first thing in the morning, and your spark plug momentarily fouls due to the oil on it, and you'll get a few puffs of blue smoke. Once the engine runs for 30 seconds or so, it smooths out and the smoke disappears, because the oil has burned up.
Can oil still drip from the valve stems while you are running around town?
Yes but only under conditions of "high vacuum", which generally means letting off the gas while in gear and letting the engine drag the car's speed down---then, when you step on the gas again,----POOF!---another quick burst of smoke.
A cylinder leakdown test tells you a great deal about the internal condition of an engine.
Generally on a car as old as yours, you live with it. It can be an expensive repair (the valve guides themselve I mean). Replacing just the valve stem seals is a lot cheaper to do, but on an older engine, perhaps not as successful.
If you aren't seeing lots of blue smoke on start up, this is probably not your problem anyway.
You have enough questions and enough problems that I strongly recommend that you locate an independent BMW Specialist in your area (after acquiring a manual and service info.) ; bimmers.org will give you that information. These cars can can be expensive to maintain at dealer rates but they are reasonable at most indies but regular maintenance is a must.
Good luck
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Here's what happened:
August: rock hits and cracks windshield within driver's sight.
October: Windshield replaced by bodyshop with BMW parts - no problems with fit but windshield has blurry spot in middle and is defective.
November: BMW shop that sold the defective windshield replaces it under warranty.
This week, I drove took car on the highway and it has so much wind noise it seems like the window is open. BMW shop #1 says that the BMW shop #2 that did the work did a really bad job. I can see black stuff oozing out on the sides and the mirror is not lined up right.
So, I took it back to BMW shop #2 which did the work - they apologize and agree the work is bad. Car needs to go back in and windshield needs to come out again.
Question: It seems like I am stuck with the shop that did the bad work. Does anyone think I have any recourse to get BMW to pay for the windshield somewhere else? I am not wild about using this dealer. In fact, I am not so sure the current installation is even safe.
Thanks for any advice.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Thanks for making me think about this!
Anyway---yes, you have a right to proper workmanship. I"m not sure how the dealer billed BMW, so that could be tricky.
My usual dealer does send it out to a vendor.
I did call BMW corporate and it is tricky. They are going to "advocate on my behalf" to the 2 dealers I would go to. I am not sure how this is going to work out since someone is going to have to pay. I just know it should not be me. Right now, I have a car I am afraid to drive a distance. If I cannot get another dealer to do the service, I am going to ask the dealer that did the bad work to ship the parts to my bodyshop and I will pay the bodyshop for the service.
However, it still seems like I should be getting top quality work at a dealership and I should not have to eat any of the cost. BMW said it would call me back later this week. As BMW represents that its dealers are qualified, I will push harder if need to. I am sure I have potential legal recourse, but right now I am trying to be nice about it. If I don't get what I want, then I'll put on my legal hat.
The dealer should farm this work out to professionals who do it all the day long. That's how you get really good at something.