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BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    Labor and tax rates vary quite a bit, so I'll give you the approximate cost of the part as well as a reasonable installation time.

    Drive belts- both belts should cost no more than $85. One hour to install, tops.
    Stabilizer end link- the link should cost around $40 with one hour of installation.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • rohandravidrohandravid Member Posts: 4
    Thanks a lot, the dealer quoted 472$ to fix this. I found a guy to get this done for 250$, you think that is feasible?

    Regards
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    $250 sounds reasonable, but I'd want to make sure that the tech actually knows BMWs and isn't using you car for practice...

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • bmwqabmwqa Member Posts: 4
    Hi all-

    has anyone compiled a list of "typical" repairs and maintenance items/costs for the current generation BMW 5-series (non-turbo models)? I see many questions in this forum about extended warranties and maintenance programs. Are they worth the money, what to expect, etc. It would be very helpful for all those considering buying a used 5 series to understand what the repair and maintenance costs of a typical model will be (assuming average millage) for the first 100K miles or so.

    Thanks!
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    Cost estimates depend on location as well as the specific dealer or indie shop. I'd say to budget @700-900 per year or 15K miles. On a BMW that sees merely street usage I follow BMW's service schedule except that I change the transmission oil(manual or slushbox) every 50,000 miles. Ditto for the final drive oil. I also change the coolant(using BMW coolant ONLY) every four years.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • 530ir1150r530ir1150r Member Posts: 263
    The cost for my 2002 530i 5 speed sport package was approximately $1500 for items that would have been covered by BMW's extended maintenance or warranty programs which at the time cost approximately $3500. After factoring profit and commissions you can expect the average maintenance cost to be approximately half the cost of the extended maintenace/warranty programs. I typically follow the maintenance schedule recommended by Roundel/Bimmer's tech editor.
  • rohandravidrohandravid Member Posts: 4
    I got estimates from the dealer for my 2020 530i (60K miles) to fix drive belt and rear stabilizer for 500$, I found a guy who did this for half the price, this is my first repair since 7 years.

    Can some one recommend me the cheap and best winter tires? my tires are old and I havenot changed them since I bought them, is that why I see the stering shaking when I apply brakes at 60mph or more speed?

    Thanks
    Prasanna
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,368
    If you are getting a tremor thru the steering wheel during braking the most likely cause is warped rotors.

    As for winter tires, Bridgestone Blizzaks have gotten me thru New Hampshire winters with no serious problems. They are not the cheapest (about $500 for 4) but tires are the last place I'd want to cheap out.

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • bobdebobde Member Posts: 6
    I have bought a certified 5-series couple months ago. I have just realized a foggy film on the chrome around the doors. I tried chrome polish, but no change.

    Any ideas on what could be used to clean and polish the chrome around the doors? Thanks
  • rrusso1rrusso1 Member Posts: 23
    A while ago I received some correspondence from BMW regarding the fuel pump on my 2008 535I. To be honest I paid no attention to it but I think it related to extending the warranty on the fuel pump. The other day I was doing about 65 on the Garden State Parkway and I felt the engine lose power. The car would still do better than 60 but it lacked power and the turbo wouldn't kick in. The dash lit up with an engine that looked like it was half lit and a message came up saying that there was an engine malfunction and I had reduced power. I got the car home without incident and went on Google to see if anyone else had the same problem. I found numerous instances of other owners on other BMW sites having the same problem and the cause was a malfunnction in the high pressure fuel pump (HPFP). I called my dealer (Park Avenue BMW) and explained the problem and they said to bring the car in at 6PM and they would give me a loaner(which turned out to be a 2009 528) . By noon of the next day they called and said the car was fixed . They replaced the fuel pump. Park Avenue really did a great job for me.
    Has anyone else with a 2008 535I experienced this problem or heard about it?
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    BMW is having some issues with the HPFP used on the N54. Some cars are affected and some aren't. There are quite a few discussions about it on various E90 forums and message boards.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • acuriousacurious Member Posts: 9
    Got my 2010 535i with M sport package on Aug 28, 09. At 850 and then 1000 miles, I had the High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP) go out. The car would start but it would sputter. BMW issued a bulletin on July 5, 2009 on the issue actually so it’s well known. I am surprised and perturbed that BMW did not rectify the problem for the 2010 (vehicles with the twin turbo).

    The symptoms are as follows:

    1. Sputtering of the engine when trying to start.
    2. Delayed start

    I learned per the BMW service advisor that the HPFP provides pressure for the fuel line when the engine is off. When the HPFP fails, it does not provide the pressure so the start delays and hence the sputtering.

    BMW of Fremont fixed it in one day.

    They replaced the HPFP, tested the car, waited, and tested it again. So far so good but we’ll see. Hope this post helps.
  • xingze_caixingze_cai Member Posts: 47
    I got a squeeze noise when turning the wheel on my 2005 525i.The noise doesn't seem to be too bad, but kind of annoying. Does anybody have the similar issue and know the solution for it?

    Many thanks!
  • helpmenowhelpmenow Member Posts: 6
    OK-my 2003 525 is at a shop with extensive water damage to the electrical due to rain water seeping into the car somehow and coming up under the back passenger floor. What was your recourse, did BMW pay to repair? I have owned so many Bimmers and never used my garages and never had this happen. PLEASE HELP ME! I NEED INFO :sick:
  • helpmenowhelpmenow Member Posts: 6
    As I can confirm by a message posted by a member in 2005, I am not the first. I am desperate! My 2003 525 has had rain leaking into the car into the back on the passenger side and has caused what I am told is $6000 in electrical damage. I need to know if anyone has experienced and if BMW NA handled? HELP! When I do general online searches for this I am not getting anywhere! I have owned many bimmers and have never had this happen??? :sick:
  • romandromand Member Posts: 1
    My 2004 530 has 124k miles on it. The service guy at my local dealership said that transmission filter is built-in to the housing and should be replaced at 100k, but I can't find anything written to verify this. Does anyone know if this is true?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I didn't find out HOW to do it, (yet) but the book says it takes 2.9 hours labor to change the filter, so it must, in fact, be a real pain to do. Looks taking off the oil pan isn't all that easy on this car. It also says the FLUID needs replacing at 100K, but doesn't say anything about the filter.

    Fluid change is listed at only 1.8 hours, so that must be without removing the oil pan.

    The question is, therefore---is a filter change required at 100K or it is a "lifer"?
  • xingze_caixingze_cai Member Posts: 47
    I bought 2005 525i recently, condition looks OK to me. I use to do oil change by my own on other cars and would like to do the samething on my 525i, a couple of questions:

    1. If I use Mobile synthtic oil, should the interval every one year or 12 thousand miles?

    2. Can I use the aftermarket oil filter purchased from other auto shops or better use the one from BWM parts department?

    Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'd use the dealer's filter or a German filter from an online BMW specialty vendor.

    Best thing I can say about oil changes is that if you are going to extend the oil change beyond manufacturer's recommendations, get an oil analysis periodically, and then you KNOW what's going on.
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,368
    if you are going to extend the oil change beyond manufacturer's recommendations, get an oil analysis periodically, and then you KNOW what's going on.

    Problem is that BMW doesn't give any recommendation other than changing when indicated by the service interval indicators which for some drivers is as long as
    15,000 miles. Many owners and some techies consider such intervals absurdly long, particularly in the case of the initial oil change. IIRC Mike Miller, the service guru at Roundel recommends changes at not more than 10000 mile intervals.

    My BMW Indie techs recommend 5000 mile intervals, which seems excessive in the other direction but since I think it's a good idea to have your car looked at by a pro every season, I generally change every 5 or 6K.

    BMW also requires that you use their proprietary oil, which IIRC is actually relabeled Castrol Syntec. I'm sure any similarly rated synthetic would suffice.
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    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well if you go by the BMW system and keep all your receipts, then if it blows up they just give you a new engine.

    Were it my car, I'd either do 7500 or oil analysis, either one.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    As noted above, use a BMW filter element. I recommend that you use an oil that meets BMW's LL-01 specs. The most readily available LL-01 oils are BMW 5W-30 synthetic, Castrol Syntec 0W-30, and Mobil 1 0W-40. I change the oil every 8000-8500 miles and used oil analysis shows that to be a safe interval.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • xingze_caixingze_cai Member Posts: 47
    Is BMW dealer the only place to purchase the BMW filter element?
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,175
    BMW filters aren't that expensive.. The last time I bought 7 qts of BMW synthetic and a filter (from the dealer), it came to less than $40.. This is not the thing to cheap out on, with your car...

    Join the BMW CCA (car club), and a lot of dealer parts departments will give you 10%-20% off your purchases, and you'll get a cool monthly magazine from the club..

    regards,
    kyfdx

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  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    No matter what car I own, I buy my oil filters and my various gaskets from the dealer (because they FIT), or from a specialty independent shop that sources equivalent quality, based on their repair experiences with that make of car.

    some German cars are so sensitive to oil filters that if you use an off-brand, the hydraulic valve lifters will start to malfunction and the car won't start! (certain Audi models).

    So yeah, it does matter.
  • xingze_caixingze_cai Member Posts: 47
    Just a quick question:

    Since most of BMW cars are rear wheel drive, are those two rear tires consumed more than front one? Thus, should tire rotation performed every 5000 miles?

    Thanks for the advise!
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,368
    I find that tires on my E39 wear pretty evenly, but then I do rotate every 5-7K.

    Bimmers have good weight distribution which helps and not many have enough torque to really chew up the rears (M s excepted). That said tires should be inspected regularly for signs of poor wear or misalignment. In the past, BMWs had a tendency to wear tires on the outer edges, particularly the rears.

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • xingze_caixingze_cai Member Posts: 47
  • someblueflowersomeblueflower Member Posts: 7
    I just purchased a BMW 528i. A couple of issues have arisen with this car. First, I believe there is a problem with the thermostat. It takes forever to heat up when I drive it short distances, but on the highway it heats up fast. Secondly, it run rough for a few minutes when iI first start it, after it has ran a few minutes, it runs perfect. Also, I noticed it has strong exhaust oder when running rough. Thirdly, the wiper fluid is not coming out of the wipers, should I hear the pump running and if I dont could it just be a fuse? Or it needs a new pump? I was wondering what the cost would be to fix these problems if I need to take it in for repairs?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You may be right about the thermostat. BMWs of this era have notoriously tempermental cooling systems.

    As for the strong exhaust odor, it sounds like your plugs are fouling on start up---either due to a dripping injector, or leaking valve stem seals. Do you burn some oil, or you don't know yet?

    Probably the pump is shot, another typical problem. You can test the pump with some wires off your battery or putting a test light on the connections and flipping the switch.
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,368
    No doubt you have a bad thermostat; I have a 2000 528i and it warms up very quickly
    even in winter driving. That's a cheap fix and so is a replacement wiper motor but check the fuse first.

    Don't know why yours runs rough on startup, perhaps the EFI isn't making the mixture rich enough, could be a bad sensor or bad coil. If the odor you're getting is sulfurous, you might have a plugged catalytic converter.

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • someblueflowersomeblueflower Member Posts: 7
    No, I dont think it's burning any oil...I'm taking it in for an oil change and to have the thermostat replaced on Friday...and I'm going to check the fuses for the washer pump first and my mechanic said he'll check the pump. How do I tell if it is burning oil?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well if you have worn valve guides or hardened valve stem seals, what happens is that overnight some oil left on top of the engine, in the cylinder head, drips down past the valves and the seals (which it normally should not do) and then collects in little drops on top of the piston.

    So you start up first thing in the morning, and your spark plug momentarily fouls due to the oil on it, and you'll get a few puffs of blue smoke. Once the engine runs for 30 seconds or so, it smooths out and the smoke disappears, because the oil has burned up.

    Can oil still drip from the valve stems while you are running around town?

    Yes but only under conditions of "high vacuum", which generally means letting off the gas while in gear and letting the engine drag the car's speed down---then, when you step on the gas again,----POOF!---another quick burst of smoke.
  • someblueflowersomeblueflower Member Posts: 7
    I dont think the odor is sulfurous. I'm going to have it checked out, just to play it safe. Winter is right around the corner and I want my car running smoothly when the snow finally starts here. I'm just curious, why would it be rough just on start up, but not when I'm driving it?
  • someblueflowersomeblueflower Member Posts: 7
    What exactly will my mechanic do to check this issue? And if this is the problem, is this a pretty expensive repair?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If you wanted to check for worn valve stem seals or valve guides?

    A cylinder leakdown test tells you a great deal about the internal condition of an engine.

    Generally on a car as old as yours, you live with it. It can be an expensive repair (the valve guides themselve I mean). Replacing just the valve stem seals is a lot cheaper to do, but on an older engine, perhaps not as successful.

    If you aren't seeing lots of blue smoke on start up, this is probably not your problem anyway.
  • someblueflowersomeblueflower Member Posts: 7
    I havent seen any blue smoke, so maybe it's just the EFI. I think I can just live with it. I do have a questin about the washer pump fuse. Is it just one fuse or is it two? Can you tell me if I can use regular ATC fuses or do I have to have special fuses for it? Can you tell me what amperage I need for the fuse? Thanx
  • someblueflowersomeblueflower Member Posts: 7
    Also is it wise to have the oil changed? I bought the car from a private seller and I have no idea when and if the oil was changed...If the answer is yes can you tell me what kind of oil, it does say 5w30, but would that be a sythentic oil? I appreciate any help, Thanks again
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,368
    If you have no idea when the oil was changed I recommend you change it ASAP but first you should check with the dealer to see if they have that information. Also you should acquire an owner's manual from a dealer, if it did not come with the car. This will tell you what type of oil to use and how to interpret the service indicator lights (those green dashes that come on when you start the car).

    You have enough questions and enough problems that I strongly recommend that you locate an independent BMW Specialist in your area (after acquiring a manual and service info.) ; bimmers.org will give you that information. These cars can can be expensive to maintain at dealer rates but they are reasonable at most indies but regular maintenance is a must.

    Good luck

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    I had the washer pump fail on my 1997 5er. It's an easy -if a bit fiddly- DIY. It took me @45 minutes to R&R the pump.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • someblueflowersomeblueflower Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for all the advice.
  • afishionadaafishionada Member Posts: 31
    I am facing the THIRD replacement of my windshield on my 2007 530 wagon.
    Here's what happened:
    August: rock hits and cracks windshield within driver's sight.

    October: Windshield replaced by bodyshop with BMW parts - no problems with fit but windshield has blurry spot in middle and is defective.

    November: BMW shop that sold the defective windshield replaces it under warranty.

    This week, I drove took car on the highway and it has so much wind noise it seems like the window is open. BMW shop #1 says that the BMW shop #2 that did the work did a really bad job. I can see black stuff oozing out on the sides and the mirror is not lined up right.
    So, I took it back to BMW shop #2 which did the work - they apologize and agree the work is bad. Car needs to go back in and windshield needs to come out again.

    Question: It seems like I am stuck with the shop that did the bad work. Does anyone think I have any recourse to get BMW to pay for the windshield somewhere else? I am not wild about using this dealer. In fact, I am not so sure the current installation is even safe.

    Thanks for any advice.
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,368
    Don't you have comprehensive coverage on your insurance policy, that should cover a broken windshield regardless of which shop does the work..

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • afishionadaafishionada Member Posts: 31
    Yes Insurance covered it the first time, but the defective window made it a warranty issue. At that point, the BMW shop that sold the window had to supply the new window and labor at no cost. The third time is a poor workmanship issue. Again, the shop the did the bad work is supposed to rectify it. I could take it elsewhere but I would have to pay.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I would just pay, IF they pay for the glass itself. What would you do if this were your doctor? Exactly. If it's not done right, you could get leaks, wind noise, etc.
  • afishionadaafishionada Member Posts: 31
    Good point. I am going to see if they will just provide the glass. The labor at the body shop is a fraction of the BMW labor. Thanks.
  • afishionadaafishionada Member Posts: 31
    Actually, now that I have thought this through, I am calling corporate BMW to ask for them to arrange the repair at another shop. I did a llittle research and I am terrified the window will be put in wrong again. An improper installation can cause an activated airbag to go thru the window and the roof to collapse. I cannot believe I can see black stuff sticking out of the window on the inside of the car and that I can actually feel the edge of the window from the inside. I think I may be able to push the window out if I tried. It looks like a real rooky put this one in. On top of the defective windshield and now the inept workmanship I think they need to accomodate me.

    Thanks for making me think about this!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'm rather surprised the dealer even did the work. Are you quite sure they didn't farm it out?

    Anyway---yes, you have a right to proper workmanship. I"m not sure how the dealer billed BMW, so that could be tricky.
  • afishionadaafishionada Member Posts: 31
    Amazingly, the dealer did do the work. According to them only one or two of their technicians are qualified. They said the foreman will check the work next time, but isn't this what should have happened last time? I don't trust the foreman either.

    My usual dealer does send it out to a vendor.

    I did call BMW corporate and it is tricky. They are going to "advocate on my behalf" to the 2 dealers I would go to. I am not sure how this is going to work out since someone is going to have to pay. I just know it should not be me. Right now, I have a car I am afraid to drive a distance. If I cannot get another dealer to do the service, I am going to ask the dealer that did the bad work to ship the parts to my bodyshop and I will pay the bodyshop for the service.

    However, it still seems like I should be getting top quality work at a dealership and I should not have to eat any of the cost. BMW said it would call me back later this week. As BMW represents that its dealers are qualified, I will push harder if need to. I am sure I have potential legal recourse, but right now I am trying to be nice about it. If I don't get what I want, then I'll put on my legal hat.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    That's correct. If a business hangs a sign that says it is authorized BMW service, then they can't cop out by insisting they "didn't know" or it was "too hard", etc. The sign on the building implies that they are responsible to do the job correctly.

    The dealer should farm this work out to professionals who do it all the day long. That's how you get really good at something.
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