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BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • dsylvia1dsylvia1 Member Posts: 2
    I bought a 2001 BMW 540i about one year ago. The coolant tank broke somehow while driving and emptied all the coolant. Engine is now dead. I would like to sell it to someone who is willing to repair it. Car has 82,000 miles on it, 3 month old tires, brand new headliner and rides great. I just don't want to deal with a BMW anymore. Any advice?
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I might be very interested in your car if it has the 6-Speed manual transmission.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • bflatminor7thbflatminor7th Member Posts: 1
    I have the exact same issue with water leaking into the back on the driver side of my 2003 530i. Dealer said they were not able to replicate the issue, even though I drove it in and showed them water leaking from the bottom of the door. Dealer doesn't seem interested in trying to fix it. Please keep me posted if you find a solution.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,288
    I'm surprised that the dealer couldn't solve your problem; it's a somewhat common issue in the E39 community. What has happened is that the inner door insulation(Part number 6 in this diagram) has come loose from the bottom of the door and needs to be reattached using a waterproof silicone sealant or similar. An easy and simple fix.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • lovecdlovecd Member Posts: 50
    I encountered several times on my recently purchased 2005 BMW 525i that when I applied the brake when going down the hill, the RPM turned immediately higher to over 3x1000, in the meantime, the engine sounds louder as well. I was wondering if this is normal or there is something wrong with the transmission?

    Thanks in advance!
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 234,725
    BMW automatics downshift pretty aggressively, when the brake is applied.... especially going downhill... Other makes do this (Honda used to call their transmissions grade-logic), but it isn't nearly as noticeable as with the BMW..

    So... I don't think it's the engine revving higher (unless you are hitting the gas, as well), it's the transmission downshifting into a lower gear..

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  • lovecdlovecd Member Posts: 50
    Thank you!

    By the way, should the transmission fluid be changed every 100,000 miles or sooner than that?
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,363
    BMW says their A/Ts are "lifetime fill". Considering the expense of replacing a modern A/T most savvy owners are changing their ATF every 60,000 miles (using synthetic). I follow this procedure and have over 120K on the Steptronic in my '00 528iA and the trans operates perfectly in either automanual or full automatic mode.

    In fact it's a whole bunch smoother than the A/T in my MIL's 2000 LeSabre which has only 42K on it. That one will not give you a smooth kickdown if you are over 3000RPM, it's quite harsh and there's a delay of a second or so that is not pleasing.

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • adhocbmwadhocbmw Member Posts: 1
    Driveshaft cracked at 83,000 miles. All service previously done at BMW service. Any similar problems. (not covered under warranty).
  • lovecdlovecd Member Posts: 50
    I used to replace transmission fluid to my other cars myself, is it hard to do on BMW or better have it done with BMW dealers?

    Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If it's a torn flex disk that you're talking about, that is a very common BMW E39 series ailment. Not sure if that's your model or not but I think 2004 was the last year. I think BMW regards this as a normal wear item.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,288
    I used to replace transmission fluid to my other cars myself, is it hard to do on BMW or better have it done with BMW dealers?

    You can do it yourself, but the procedure is somewhat more complicated than you may be used to. This how-to is for an E36, but it will still give you an idea of what is involved. I usually have my dealer change the ATF and transfer case oil at 50,000 mile intervals. They only charge me $208.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,288
    2003 was the last year for the E39 platform. The flex disk(AKA guibo) can last up to 150K or more, depending on the car's horsepower, weight, and driving conditions.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Thanks. I keep seeing two different answers for when the E39 phased out. I guess the theoretical lifespan of the guibo should be 150K, but it seems that most people don't get that far with them. Certainly worth checking periodically.

    I wonder what a "cracked" driveshaft is then? Sounds very unusual.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,288
    I wonder what a "cracked" driveshaft is then? Sounds very unusual.

    My wife's CPO 1997 528i had a low speed rumble/vibration that was independent of engine speed and wheels/tires fitted. My dealer has a first class service department and they diagnosed a bent driveshaft. It was replaced under the CPO warranty, no questions asked. I still wonder how one could tweak a driveshaft without hitting/running over something.
    FYI, BMW continues to use two-piece driveshafts fitted with 1-2 guibos and a center bearing, as you can see on this F01 parts diagram.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Are BMW driveshaft still not rebuildable? I remember that for a long time the u=joints were not replaceable. U-joint wears out, well, then, you replace the entire driveshaft.

    I could see a driveshaft out of balance, definitely, but bent? A frozen u-joint would give that same symptom, too.
  • sportcourtguysportcourtguy Member Posts: 4
    OK, Had a major leak in my car, if I left car in rain the rear passenger side foot well would fill up with water (over 2'' + deep) the issue is that it took BMW service forever to fix it in that time it fill with water several time. Found out the it was coming in from the heater box and rolling in under the carpet so who know how long it was going on!! With all the electrical that is in the area should I maybe just ell the car to get rid of a potential issue long term with the electrical going bad from all the moisture?!?!?!?!?!?!?!??!??!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Water or coolant. If water, from the heater box, that was probably clogged drainage in the fresh air vents (situated under the wiper blades). Wires are wrapped up pretty well so I wouldn't worry, unless it dripped on some component...but usually what this type of leak does is drip along the inner firewall. I don't think I'd worry about it. I'd be more concerned for the power seats I guess.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,288
    Are BMW driveshaft still not rebuildable?

    Some aftermarket shops rebuild them as does BMW.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • sportcourtguysportcourtguy Member Posts: 4
    It was water, it migrated fom under heater under the carpet to the lowest spot on the car which was the back seat footwell. When the water was in the back it did cause all sorts of electrical items to go off, i.e. active steering said it was not communicating, stereo was weird, seat would not work, etc...all the water is now gone and all communication seems to be ok. The worry I have is the corrosion going to continue to wires in the area....
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Ah well, the great mystery. I don't know what to say. I can only give you some solace, in a weird comparison to my laptop computer. I dumped a large cup of coffee on it, and of course, it shorted out, etc---but once we took it apart and cleaned it, it's been fine.
  • rezrez Member Posts: 41
    While researching the 5 series E60, I've noticed that there was an issue with the high pressure fuel pump or the ignition coil on numerous vehicles. I would like to know if anyone has experienced the problem, and how their cars are performing after the replacement, please.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,288
    The HPFP issue only affects cars with the N54 engine.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • rezrez Member Posts: 41
    Thanx roadburner!

    my preliminary research outcome is that the faulty N54 engine were in cars until March 2008. I wonder when BMW started to manfacture the 2009's? Just wanted to ask anyone who experienced the failed fuel pumps and how their cars are performing after they were changed out.

    Anyone?
  • gardisgardis Member Posts: 185
    Guys,
    I've been reading these boards for over a year now, and have gotten terrific information, many thanks to you all for that help.

    I have a CPO 2007 530i with 28K on it. Vehicle has premium, cold, Sports, prem. sound, NAV. Love the car. Really terrific. Since I got the vehicle in June 2009, I was consistently getting like 20mpg city driving, consistently. Verified by myself each time I filled. Now, all of a sudden, I notice I'm getting less mileage. It's down to about 17mpg, with the same type driving. I am very light on the foot, and always let the car coast, and use cruise control when on the highway. I dont' have a heavy foot at all.

    What could have changed? Is it the cold weather (live in CT). I just don't get it.
    I was getting like 300miles on 15 gals every time, like clockwork. Now, I'm getting maybe 260-270 miles. I'm about ready to call the dealer, since the car is under warranty until June 2012, but I figured I'd ask here first.

    Anyone have a clue? Thanks guys, and Merry Christmas and happy New Year!
    Gardis
    CT
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    That is probably normal. The factors working against you are:

    1. Friction -- all the fluids and greases in your car's rolling hardware are thicker, and require more energy to overcome and get warm.

    2. Tire pressure--it will drop 1-2 lbs in cold weather---again, more rolling resistance

    3. Driving habits -- if you sit and think about it, you probably are making more short trips where before you would walk, due to the cold weather.

    4. Warm-ups -- your engine management system is designed (mapped) for optimum engine temperature, and is less efficient when the engine is cold.

    You might consider an engine heater when you park overnight, and inflating or at least checking your tire pressure just a little bit more.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 234,725
    ..after the DST change-over, my commute home is in the dark... and, the traffic is a lot worse.. It turns a 30 minute drive into 40 minutes... That eats away at your mileage..

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  • sportcourtguysportcourtguy Member Posts: 4
    Have an 04 530i, yes the cold will knock it down alot! I am about the same, 19-21 city and much better on highway only.
  • gardisgardis Member Posts: 185
    OK Thanks guys. Makes sense. No question, the drop was coincident with the drop in weather temps. I'll keep my eye on it, and thanks again for the advice.
  • samsridesamsride Member Posts: 7
    Bought my BMW this spring 2009 brand new. At 5K miles, check engine light came on. Fixed 3 times (software update, fuel injector replacement, fuel pump). At about 7500 miles, light came on, lost power and shut off. Luckily I was able to coast to the side of the road. Had to be towed. Had a fuel injector and cylinder replaced (blown to smithereens). Since this was the 4th incident with the check engine light, filed for reimbursement through Lemon Law. Don't consider the case safe to drive as sometimes I am in areas where there is no cell service (so no BMWAssist for a tow). No response from BMW after 30 days. Dealer has been responsive as far as service and all replacements covered under warranty.I know alot of you have experienced the fuel pump issues. Has anyone tried to get reimbursed for purchase or gotten a new vehicle under the Lemon Law? My brother is a Chevy dealer and they automatically start working a deal for the customer on the third repair for the same issue. They will either move the customer into another dealer or return their money. :lemon:
  • lovecdlovecd Member Posts: 50
    The original tires on my 2005 525i seemed to worn out very soon, and I need new tires. Went to discount tires and Costco Tires, and they have quite a few options, but each shop have different ideas and suggestions. Can anybody advise which brand tires I should go with?

    Also, the price for V-rated and H-rated from Michelin seemed to be quite different, and it seemed that H-rated one is not recommended by Costco at all. Is this really matter at all?

    Thanks!
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,288
    1. Check out Tire Rack
    2. Don't fit a lower speed rated tire unless it is a dedicated winter tire.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • lovecdlovecd Member Posts: 50
    So, V-rated has higher speed than H-rated?

    Thanks!
  • james27james27 Member Posts: 433
    The letter rating is not necessarily a better tire, but that it passed tests up to a specific speed. If I remember correctly, H is rated up to 129mph, and V to 149mph. In some places it is illegal to install tires with a lower speed-rating than originally specified on the car by the manufacturer. This is especially important in places like Germany, where you may actually get to drive at the car's maximum speed. nowhere in the USA is it legal to drive beyond probably a T-rated tire. A higher speed rating tire will usually not last as long, be noisier, and ride rougher because flex means heat and heat ruins tires (they could fail much quicker - often catastrophically). One way they minimize flex is often to start out with much thinner tread, thus the reason why they wear out faster. The handling often, but not always improves with a higher speed rated tire because it holds its shape better. But, at 'normal' speeds, you may not notice. So, depending on the legalities of where you are, and your priorities, you could specify a lower speed-rated tire on your car. There will be some differences, but you might not notice (some will, and to a few, it would be huge).
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,288
    So, depending on the legalities of where you are, and your priorities, you could specify a lower speed-rated tire on your car. There will be some differences, but you might not notice.

    If that's the case you would probably be just as happy driving a Kia.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • lovecdlovecd Member Posts: 50
    Thanks a lot for your explanation!
  • james27james27 Member Posts: 433
    How many people drive their car at 100%? How many ever do it? If you are one of them, then it is essential to maintain the max. Note, a lower speed rated tire may very well have better performance in the rain and light snow because it usually starts out with more tread depth, displace the moisture better, and can conform to the road irregularities better. So, if you understand the tradeoffs, your actual pleasure and pocketbook may be improved. A potentially bigger issue is the brand and model you choose. Few people will notice the difference between the same tire/brand/model offered in different speed ratings. It only becomes a safety factor if you ever do go to the maximum speed. And, an H-rated tire after it has worn for a few thousand miles to the tread depth of the V-rated one, will likely provide essentially the same driving performance AND increased tread life, but again, only if you don't need to drive above the max speed rating. In the US, unless you happen to do track work, it's lose the license time if you ever get there (and get caught!). I'm not talking about larger wheels/lower profile or switching performance category tires...just the max speed rating (although they sometimes go together, but not always).
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,288
    How many people drive their car at 100%? How many ever do it? If you are one of them, then it is essential to maintain the max

    Why stop with tires? Save a few more bucks and fit some Pep Boys shocks and struts. Put some Midas brakes on it. Walmart Supertech oil and filters? Why not; you won't be driving your car at 100%. And don't forget to use regular unleaded instead of premium.

    . Note, a lower speed rated tire may very well have better performance in the rain and light snow because it usually starts out with more tread depth, displace the moisture better, and can conform to the road irregularities better.

    And your source for that information is?

    So, if you understand the tradeoffs, your actual pleasure and pocketbook may be improved.

    Thanks for the helpful information. My knowledge of things BMW is quite limited since I've only owned, wrenched on, and competed in nine BMWs over the past 27 years. And as a BMW driver I'm always looking to improve my pocketbook- whatever the heck that means.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • davis101davis101 Member Posts: 5
    I am moving from v tires to h tires--yes I do occasionally drive fast! Overall use is your main concern.
    I f I lived in Nevada I probably wouldn't change. But favorite tire is still Michilen! Not an advertisement but something that I can count on almost w/o question except for my last set of piolet/as. Think something hinkey because they never could be balanced well or stay close. Same shop -- Same people for 20 years! Best tire I ever used was Gislavid a Sweedish tire and I think they were unioned out of business. Still afraid of japenese tires just had too many bad experiences. Good Year and Firestone almost killed me twice and would never buy either again for any car that can run over 75mph.
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,363
    James I could be wrong but I know that heat is the main factor in tire wear and I think it would be safe to assume that a tire with a V-rating would be less affected by heat than it's H-rated equivalent in the long run and therefore might last longer driven in the same way.

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • james27james27 Member Posts: 433
    The vast majority of heat is generated from the flex. Friction internally is a larger component unless you are driving constantly at max g's in turns. A few high-speed turns aren't going to cause you to chunk sections out of your tire...a few laps around a track could. That's where a higher speed-rated tire becomes critical - it can handle heat better, both from the heat generated by the repeated high-speed turns and the faster, constant velocity (both are primarily from flex, but some from if you break traction around the corner as well). The faster you go, the more it flexes (more rotations). Tread depth and design affect how much squirm the tread does, which will heat the tire up more - one reason why the higher speed-rated tires usually have less tread depth when new. I still contend that an identical model tire in H and V ratings, where the H rated tire has worn to the same depth as a V cousin will handle very close to the same except at absolute max g's. If you drive it at 100% of the vehicle's capability (i.e. higher speed than the rating), or decide to use it on a track where you are reaching the max g-forces frequently, you need a tire at least to the original spec. The average person won't notice. Now, the selection of tires that are available in both H and V versions with the same tread design isn't huge, but they exist.

    The vehicle's max speed capability requires the manufacturer to select an appropriately spec'ed speed-rated tire. In the same model line, if it is 130, it'll very likely come with H-rated tires. If it is faster, it will have at least V-rated tires. Cornering capability is likely the same, assuming the same sized tires on the same model line (discounting sport, or other enhancements to make one faster).

    Anyway, in some countries and maybe states here (not mine), you don't have the choice - the tire's speed rating must match the vehicle, regardless of how you drive it. If you drive it at 100% cornering or speed, then if you don't use the appropriate tire, it could kill you and others. Most people don't. An H-rated tire is only unsafe on a car if you exceed it's max speed. The same can't necessarily be said about brakes and other safety equipment although some are better than that supplied by the factory. A brake pad supplied by the factory is a good all-around performer, but might not be the greatest at track use where extreme heat may dictate a different compound.
  • 045045 Member Posts: 2
    My girlfriend has the same issue on her 04. What did the dealer do to fix it?
  • sportcourtguysportcourtguy Member Posts: 4
    My ordeal was a long drawn out situation! First they replaced the vapor barriers in the doors (TWICE) as they said that was the issue, this did not take care of it so I took it back to them and told them to keep the car until they found the issue. It turned out that the cabin air filter system had a leak(under the hood) in it that allowed water to enter the heater box, it would then migrate through the vents at the front of the vehicle and run under the carpet to the rear of the vehicle. Because of the amount of water and the time it took to figure it out I had electrical issues that potentially could continue. I had to replace the Active steering module becasue of corrosion, radio was screwed up, etc.. all in all I can say is get the water out of there asap, I pulled the back seat and tented up the carpet and blew fans on it for DAYS, get the water out of there quick! I will say BMW did take care of the final bill for me becasue it took so long to fugure out! I was impressed with that!!
  • lovecdlovecd Member Posts: 50
    Just got oil changed myself on 2005 525i this afternoon. However, I did not figure out how to reset the oil change service warning? Do I need a special tool to do that?

    Thanks!
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,288
    The procedure can be found here.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • lovecdlovecd Member Posts: 50
    Thanks, will try it tomorrow then.
  • lovecdlovecd Member Posts: 50
    Got two questions:

    1. Where is te tank for power steering wheel located? I found one between air filter housing and the battery positive terminal, and with the mark of ATF fluid only on its cover, is this the one?

    2. Try to lose the cover and check the fluid level, noticed there are 3 marks, so how to check the fluid level is correct? If needs more fluid, can I fill it with the regular ATF transmission fluid like dexron iii?

    Thanks for any advise!
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,288
    1. Yes
    2. Anywhere between the top two marks should be fine. Dexron III is the proper fluid if the cap reads "ATF Oil".

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • lovecdlovecd Member Posts: 50
    Thanks a lot!
  • 03maxmiase03maxmiase Member Posts: 12
    I put about 10000 miles per year on the car and warranty is up end of march. I do not plan to buy extended warranty or maintenance plan. Is there anything I should do before warranty is up?

    Thanks.
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