BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair

andys120 · January 2010

I came across this in the Feb 2010 issue of Automobile which is relevant to our discussion of tire speed ratings.

DOES IT MATTER?
You may never achieve high speeds like this at home but all new car and truck tires sold in the United States have speed ratings on them. A tire's ability to deal with high speeds doesn't necessarily increase it's handling and braking but generally there is a correlation--so if you're looking for a higher performance tire, look for a higher speed rating.

(Emphasis added)

vonrhett · February 2010

The 2009/10 E60 with N54 is an amazing vehicle - when it runs. In the past 5 years, I've purchased a 645, 750, and two 5s, all brand new. Never a single issue with any, until the '09 535i (N54B30).

What a nightmare, and BMW NA refuses to even help. In 8 months (since I took delivery), the fuel pump failed (HPFP), water pump failed, fuel control system failed, each time a tow and an extended period out of service. Now the charging system won't charge the battery - 2 more tow trucks in the past 3 weeks. After a looong drive, it will hold the charge for about 4-days, then it's dead again. "Click". BMW Emergency Road Service is in my speed dial!

It's been "out of service" for 24 days (in 9-months) and BMW NA said "that's normal". Local dealer, where I purchased 4 NEW CARS, recommended I change my driving habits to accommodate the weak charging system, aka take longer trips. Hmmm, change my life because the car won't charge.....

My driving habits/trip length is identical in the 528i, which has never had a single problem.

Now I'm hearing about all kinds of buy-backs, lemon law-based arbitration cases, etc., due to these known problems with the N54. Yet they deny there's anything wrong with my unreliable lemon.

So how come BMW won't take this dog back (zero sum) and let me spend even more money on a nice new X-6??

milner007 · February 2010

I have a 2000 528i manual tranny which I have always had serviced at the dealer until they told me they wanted $300 to replace the winshield washer motor and a reputable indy shop did it for $80! So yesterday I took it in for an oil change- this shop used Pentosynth 5w-40 which looks like it is ok (is it??)- but the main thing that got my attention is I am supposed to get it changed again in 5,000 miles- well I have never done that- I only put about 9,000 miles/yr on the car- not enough to put all the green lights out on the oil service indicator, so I have been having it changed once a year at the dealer. If I have to get it changed more than this because of this Pentosynth oil then it would be cheaper for me to go back to the dealer. Any advice would be appreciated.

samsride · February 2010

Have you had a lawyer send a written notification to BMW NA? Depends what state you live in, but after so many attempts to fix an issue, the lemon law applies. Also if the car is out of service more than 30 days. I think you have 1 yr/12K miles for these events to occur.

My dealer has stated that there are issues with the HPFP on the twin turbos - 335, 535, etc.. I've also been asked if my battery has gone dead. I've had fuel injectors, HPFP, cylinders, etc. replaced. After the last fix, had major acceleration lag, especially off the line. Dealer couldn't find anything wrong, kept it for 8 days, but magically it is fine off the line, and I feel a slight lag as it shifts through the gears. it is not safe to drive as it has broken down like yours. Sometimes I travel into very cold areas with no cell service, so cannot take a chance on breaking down, and having to walk at least 10 miles in -28 degree weather.

My car is under consideration for the Lemon Law. Should get a response this month. If no from BMW NA, next step is BBB for arbitration, which is only binding to the dealer. You can then move onto a lawsuit. In the end you will recoup lawyer's fees, rental fees, etc. My suggestion is to have an attorney send the written notification to BMW NA - see section on this in your warranty manual - stating your intent to go the distance.

roadburner · February 2010

You should be good with an annual oil change; I've had the oil analyzed in my wife's X3 2.5 at almost every oil change and 9000 miles is a perfectly acceptable interval for any decent synthetic.

milner007 · February 2010

Thanks for your reply!

045 · February 2010

Thanks for the reply Sportcourtguy. How did you get them to pay?

Our first experience ended up with our vehicle being down 6 days and with no repair but the dealer charged us $300 to dry the car out and sugested a sunroof repair that would be over $1k but that they were not confident that it would solve the problem. Our service advisor (who is now no longer employed) told us that they cleaned out all of the drains and to let them know if it happens again. So in other words they did not find the problem.

It just rained this past Saturday and the car was again full of water on the passenger side. While it was still raining we took the car back to the dealer and the new service advisor was "shocked" to see the amount of water and put his "top" technician on it. Yesterday the service advisor calls and asks me to come in because they found the problem. It turns out that under the hood on the passenger side they said that there were a bunch of leaves cloging the cabin filter drain and that water was overflowing from this and donw towards the heater box. From there it was landing on a tray with a chanel that enters the passenger side just under the dash which the tech explained to me is to allow air in to cool the ECU. This channel is filling up with water which then is pouring into the car! Now I am no engineer but this does not sound like a very good design. Also in looking at this water is going down into this area and there is nothing we can do to prevent this. Long story short they want over $2k now to dry out the car, replace the sub woofer that is completely under water along with everything else. They are unsure if any sensors are damaged so it may be more. We are not happy with this needless to say. Also there is nothing being done to address the source of the water intrusion. They ae telling us that they will take responsibility for the repair.....what repair?

beolson · February 2010

I realize the posting above was almost three years ago, but my 2001 530i exhibits the same symptoms of the the Nikasil problem for M60 engines.
Was the M54B30 engine also a Nikasil engine?

shipo · February 2010

The I6 engines of the E39 line of cars did not use a lined cylinder as did the older V8 engines.

Mr_Shiftright · February 2010

Nope. What kind of miles are on your engine?

talhomsi · February 2010

on a 2000, 540i, the car smokes in the morning when first starts, any idea of the cause and repair. Thanks

talhomsi · February 2010

85K

Mr_Shiftright · February 2010

If it smokes for a bit on start up and then goes away, chances are this might be valve stem seals. Also if your car has an "oil separator" (a fancy PCV valve system), this can cause oil burning since oil from the defective part can seep into the intake manifold.

whitehot5 · February 2010

I've recently purchased a pre-owned 2008 535i. I have 23K miles and the car seems to delay and "jump" forward from a stopped position from time to time. In addition, when I've started the car the last couple of days, it cranks longer than typical before it starts. I thought the "lurching" may have been transmission related but now that I am researching, I understand it may be the High Pressure Pump on which some owners are commenting. Has anyone else experienced this problem?

beolson · February 2010

125K. The car (2001 530i) lurched to a stop a few months ago. I had just filled it with gasoline; 30 mpg on a 70% highway/30% town driving mix on the previous tank which had been the norm. Towed the car to a mechanic. The mechanic did a compresssion test. "0" compresssion in all cylinders. He took off the head. Tops of the cylinder walls were seriously "etched". A sample of the gasoline had some water in it, and a funny black/multi-colored substance floating on top. I had the fuel analyzed. They simply said it had water in it, and was slightly weathered. Apparently the substance on top was not analyzed. The engine is toast.

shipo · February 2010

I seriously doubt that water injected into the engine via the fuel injectors was enough to be able to cause that kind of damage, that said, I've heard of some pretty serious damage being caused to gasoline engines when diesel fuel is inadvertantly added to the gas tank. I'm wondering if some diesel was incorrectly added to the tanks of the gas station where you'd just filled up.

I think I'd be talking to the station directly or through legal representation if I was in your shoes.

samsride · February 2010

The delay and jump symptom sounds like an acceleration lag off the line. Lurching could be a fuel injector misfiring. With the misfiring, I was experiencing very rough idling and above 50 mph the car almost felt like it was bucking, which was the misfiring. The long cranking is a symptom of the HPFP. I would take your car into a BMW dealer for evaluation of the software (acceleration lag - new update was out in Jan 2009 per a class action resolution), HPFP (long cranking), and fuel injectors (lurching). Make sure you tell them all the symptoms so they look at everything. They don't really have resolution to the issues except replacing parts with no guarantee from what I am told by my service manager. There hasn't been a recall.

Mr_Shiftright · February 2010

Can't say without seeing a photo of the damage, but it could be related to severe detonation----very odd diagnosis, that ALL cylinders would be absolutely "0". This suggests, if true, a total catastrophe of some kind that should not be hard to identify. Your report is very puzzling to me. Are you quite sure your timing chain didn't snap, or that the car did not severely and rapidly overheat?

IN any event, I don't see this related to the gasoline issue. Now, if someone had put gasoline in a diesel engine, well....maybe...but diesel or water just makes an engine stop from lack of combustion.

I'd like to hear a *much* better explanation of how we lost compression in all cylinders simultaneously. Until we have that, I don't think you have a case here.

shipo · February 2010

I've seen two gasoline engines that were violently destroyed due to diesel fuel being used. From the looks of things, detonation was occuring at the extreme and the valves and piston domes took the brunt of the damage. That said, it was summer time and both of these engines were carbureted; I'm not at all sure the injectors of a fuel injected engine (operating in the winter time no less) would be able to feed enough diesel fuel into the induction system to cause the detonation I saw on those engines.

Best regards,
Shipo

Mr_Shiftright · February 2010

I can't even imagine someone attempting to drive a gasoline car that was struggling to run on diesel fuel. There would be so much smoke, noise, sputtering etc, it would seem rather reckless to push an engine to such extremes. I can't imagine how the car could go 5 miles on diesel fuel.

Of course, we are talking about *pure* diesel fuel, not a cupful. A cupful in a tank of gas wouldn't hurt anything IMO. Even a cupful of water wouldn't do much more than cause sputtering (maybe) and a clogged up fuel filter perhaps.

Sudden loss of compression on all 6 cylinders is a pretty amazing occurrence. I was thinking there would be an obvious answer to why this happened.

shipo · February 2010

The two engines that I saw had both been filled in a "Full Service" lane by an attendant, and both had at least a quarter of a tank of gasoline when the fill-up event occurred.

Thinking further about this, it seems logical that when the car was started, and when the owner pulled out of the station, the engine was still running on gasoline that was in the carb bowl(s) and in the fuel lines, so it's possible that both cars were up to speed before the diesel started making its way into the engine.

beolson · February 2010

Mr. Shipo and Mr. Shiftright,
I appreciate your responses. I will take your ideas to my mechanic. He's independent but works on many BMWs. The "event" actually happened last August, so it was warm. Situation. After work, drove .25 mile to get "fuel". Then drove about .5 mile when the car started lurching, whereby I put in the clutch and coasted to a stop. Hasn't run since.
I'll try to see if the mechanic can take some photos of the cylinder walls. I've seen the walls, not pretty.

jkaudia6 · February 2010

Hi Re: I'm thinking of purchasing 1991 525i [kturner00]
I just parked my 1990 5 Series with 287,000 Km's, that's about 200K Miles.
Got tired of putting more money in to it.
With a current market value of about 1400 Euro's at that mileage
130kilometers you can count on repairs.
But to answer your questions:
Control Arms in the front will be a repeat repair.
Wheel bearings in the rear tend to rust and if you wait to long
they have to be Torched out.
Valve train ( lifters or vanos will eventually start making noise.
The only repair for that is replacement.$$$$
The end muffler I replaced 4 times in twenty years (ever 5yrs.)
One clutch disc in twenty years.
One water pump.
The list goes on, but you get the picture.
Let me just say in closing, I kept that car in top shape for twenty years
but it bleed me to death.
That should answer your questions about gasoline, I think.
Best regards
JKAudiA6

iwse · February 2010

Just received a letter today from BMW corporate acknowledging problems with high pressure fuel pump (HPFP) problems on 2008/2009 535i models, and as such is extending the warranty on the HPFP from the normal 4 years/50,000 miles to 10 years/120,000 miles, whichever comes first. I'm saving that letter for any unfortunate future reference.

My HPFP went at 17,000 miles on my 2009 535i x-drive. Dealer knew immediately the cause, though did not acknowledge any known problem when I questioned them on it. Surprise, surprise. Otherwise, the car has been problem-free and one sweet ride.

I wonder if the recent Toyota debacle has given the entire auto industry a wake-up call. I certainly hope so for the sake of both the industry and us consumers. The cost of recalls and extended warranties pale in comparison to the cost of a damaged brand.

gardis · March 2010

Hi Guys,
wow after reading about these 535i problems, I'm so glad I didn't go with the one I saw at Bridgeport BMW (CT) last year! Something just told me to not go with a new model (turbos).........my instincts were right. Anyway..........have a beautiful 2007 530i, just had it serviced under the warranty 30K......came through with flying colors, didn't cost me a CENT. Service tech said see ya next year, but I'm wondering, an oil change every 15K miles, does that sound correct? It just seems like a lot of miles to go between oil changes. Guys thanks. I've learned so much from these boards.

Gardis - CT

roadburner · March 2010

I'm wondering, an oil change every 15K miles, does that sound correct? It just seems like a lot of miles to go between oil changes.

There are lots of opinions on the proper oil change frequency. I change it every 8,000 miles in my wife's 2004 X3 2.5, primarily because used oil analysis indicates that the oil's additive package is almost depleted by that mileage. Other have good luck with the @15,000 mile interval, but not me...

james27 · March 2010

It depends on the type of driving you do. Lots of cold starts and city driving and 15K might be too long. Mostly highway, it might be okay. Also depends on the oil they use (Mobil 1?) and the volume. I have an Infiniti that I've been using synthetic in and having the oil analyzed. 11K on my engine is about near the end of useful protection with a 60/40 mix of highway/city. Their service interval is 3750miles, but analysis shows that that is way overkill unless it was hot/dusty/short severe service.

kevin530 · March 2010

I just never felt right about a 15,000 mile interval, seems way too long, for a high compression engine. For new cars under warranty that offer free maintenance, like BMW, if you say change the oil at 15,000 instead of say 7,500 or 10,000, the cost savings are obvious for the company and the car is out of warranty most likely before any major damage is evident. My gut tells me that a 7,500 mile interval with synthetic oil is reasonable and that is what I have been doing. Valvoline does it for about $90 with the extra oil required.

james27 · March 2010

The one sure way to tell is to spend the $25 or so and send in a sample of the oil at your 7500 mile interval to see how much life is left in it. Then, you have a valid assessment of the life left in the oil. If it saves an extra $90 oil change, and confirms the oil's good, or bad, then you have a basis for discussion with the dealer about what needs to happen.

Many of the synthetic oil companies offer their own warranty if you use their oil and follow their recommendations - Mobil 1's recommendation is 12000 miles or one year, whichever comes first.

A car that is designed for extended oil changes usually has more oil in the sump than a more 'normal' engine. This means a larger reservoir of addatives and often, a longer change interval.

larrynguyen · March 2010

My 2006 BMW 525i keeps giving me warning "low coolant" about a week after I filled it up. I took it to a local shop. The technician tested it (blowing air to the coolant openning) and he found no leaks at all on the tubes and radiator, although we saw water leaks to the bottom tray. He then open the engine oil cap and said the water must have leaked to the engine because the oil color has changed to light brown. He susggested to take it to the dealer for further testing and repair. My questions are:
1) Was his diagnostic correct?
2) If he knows what's wrong, why didn't he accept the job to fix it?
3) How big a job to repair the problem when coolant mixing engine oil?
4) What shops (in Orange County, CA) are good to repair the car besides the dealer to reduce the cost?

Mr_Shiftright · March 2010

This doesn't sound like a diagnosis at all, but rather a guess based on an oil cap??

There are very conclusive ways to test for head gasket failure or even oil separator (BMW's fancy PCV valve) problems, so yeah, you need to go somewhere that knows about BMWs.

If in fact you have water + oil extensively distributed throughout your engine, you'd better pour yourself a stiff drink. I think not, but you need to have this properly diagnosed and stop driving the car until you do.

roadburner · March 2010

I'll bet it's either the water pump, t-stat housing, or the expansion tank.

petecastro99 · March 2010

I have a very similar issue with lights coming on and going off intermittently. Also have my horn and radio sometime not work, then start to work again.
I'm assuming it's the computer module but curious as to what you found when you had it serviced.

steve_gauntt · March 2010

The mechanic I use doesn't know how to reset the error light on the idrive. Can anyone explain how to do this? I have tried pushing the trip odometer and turning key to accessory but do not get any reset ability.

Frustrated in Wisconsin.

pen101 · April 2010

I have not written here in a long while. I still have my car that I purchased new in December, 2001. I love the car and will probably keep it a few more years.

While on the freeway, a rock or something hit the windshield and now there is a long crack across it. My car, '02 530i has 89K miles. It has the premium-sport package which comes with the rain sensor on the rear view mirror. My insurance deductible is higher than the replacement cost so I will pay for it my self. Question is, I received quotes from a few highly recommended glass shops. It comes down to whether I want to have installed a BMW windshield ($650) or an after market windshield ($350). Each shop claims that the aftermarket windshield is just as good as the BMW part, except it does not have the BMW logo on it. Considering the age and mileage of the car, would it be a mistake to use the after market windshield instead of the BMW windshield?

shipo · April 2010

Hey Pen, long time...

How's that "new" clutch holding out for you?

Regarding the windshield glass, the only thing I've ever been warned about regarding replacement glass is the actual thickness; I've "heard" (but never experienced) that some aftermarket glass makers skimp on the thickness, and as such, the new glass cracks and pits easier.

I've taken a different route regarding the one broken windshield I've had to deal with on a German car, namely a used windshield. My insurance company told me they'd actually waive my deductible and pay for the entire glass replacement if I'd agree to a used part. Needless to say I agreed.

Best regards,
Shipo

pen101 · April 2010

Shipo, you have a great memory. Same clutch, works great. Only other non-standard maintenance issue is that the drivers door window-lift gave out. Oh, and I have been through 3 cup holder sets, couple sets of brakes, lots of tires (standard Pilots lasted over 40K, but then I used PS2's and they lasted about 25K each set), a few bulbs here and there, a new front Bumper (a parking curb pulled the old one out) and a new rear bumper (was rear ended). The car is great (you know that) and I expect to keep it a few more years (feels good not have a car payment) before I get the 2012 5-series (always avoid the first year).

Based upon your comments, I will research the aftermarket glass option a little more carefully. Maybe I could find a used windshield replacement instead. The bottom line is that I want to make sure it does not have distortion, is thinner or causes added wind noise compared to a new BMW windshield.

Pen

Mr_Shiftright · April 2010

PROCEDURE TO VIEW OR RESET SERVICE ITEMS IN THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER E90, E91, E92, E60, E61, E63 AND E64

1. Turn ignition to Terminal 15. (if equipped with 'Keyless Start' insert remote in ignition slot but do not start engine)
2. Press and hold the Instrument Cluster Set/Reset button for 10 seconds.
3. The upper display in the Instrument Cluster will be illuminated with a Service Item (example: An oil can is the designation for Oil Service). The lower display in the Instrument Cluster will indicate the remaining time or mileage left for that Service Item (example: 14000). Pressing the button repeatedly will allow the display to scroll through all of the Condition Based Service Items.
4. Press and hold the Instrument Cluster Set/Reset button again and the lower display screen will indicate "OK" or "DUE".
5. Pressing the Instrument Cluster Set/Reset button again will allow the "RESET" to appear in the lower window for that service. Releasing and reapplying the button one more time will reset the service displayed in the upper window only. Repeat the procedure for any additional service reset needs.

kyfdx · April 2010

hey pen101..

Weren't you the one that re-purchased your car after your lease, CPOed, for less than the residual?

I replaced a windshield on our '03 325i... The prices were much lower then, and we went with factory glass at the time, because they were the only ones that had the rain sensor.

I wouldn't be worried about the after-market glass, as much as the shop having experience with replacing BMW glass... Ours had a special sealant that had to cure overnight... otherwise, they would have come to my office to do it..

regards,
kyfdx

pen101 · April 2010

Thanks Kyfdx, great memory. I got lucky on that one. Credit lots of research and talking to the right people.

Both shops that gave me quotes come highly recommended. I'll let you know which way I decide to go and whether I am satisfied with the result.

Also add to my above list of non-normal maintanence items replaced: control arm bushings. That's it. Hopefully this list won't grow too much in the coming years.

Pen

lovemyclk · April 2010

I faced the exact same issue with my '03 530. Have the PP/SP with rain sensing wipers, so went with OEM glass. Car looks and functions like new. Was not going to scrimp on after-market vs. OEM, but did not consider a "used" windshield per Shipo. Had supposed most used windshields would be pitted to some degree, so wanted a smooth all-new look.

Like you, I plan to keep this beautiful car another couple of years. I also leased and then purchased it back via CPO at a number that was very attractive... especially given that it was returned to me after a top to bottom update - even new tires.

bmw_ma · April 2010

I have an 08 535Xi in New England and was wondering if anyone had a failure with the night vision option? I pebble hit the lens and guess what? Get ready for a $5790 repair bill, Evidently they replace and reprogram the entire system. To me, that is absoultely un acceptable. The camera is mounted in the front bumper easily susceptible to little rocks and debris bumping up into it, the fact that they dont make a replaceable lens is crazy. I recomment you DONT get this option. Its just OK in its use and crazy repair costs. Just say no.

Need I mention tires if you have the sport model, They are very hard to get in the NE for some reason. This car is just a pain. I wish I had my 2005 540i back, I would NOT recommend the 2008 535xi sport.!!

furqan14 · April 2010

I have a 2008 530i. Lately i'm experiencing engine vibration when car is idle (in Park/Neutral/Drive mode) & if i turn the AC on, the vibration increases noticibly. I'd appreciate any suggestions as to guess what's wrong with the car? Havn't had the chance to take it to the dealership as past experiences suggest that they do nothing but suggest a whole bunch of possibilities that MAY eliminate the problem at an insane price! But it helps if i zero in on the problem and then ask them just to fix the particular part.

Mr_Shiftright · April 2010

Did your insurance cover this cost?

pen101 · May 2010

As a follow-up, after going back and forth for awhile, I decided on an after market glass that was almost half the cost ($350) of the BMW glass ($685). The installer comes highly recommended and is the one used by many of the dealerships in the area including BMW. He showed me the after market windshield and I could not tell the difference between the two (except for the BMW logo of course). Everything looked identical. So far, 2 weeks later, I have no regrets. Just an extra $335 in my pocket. Well, not really, because I just bought a new set of Michelin PS2 tires. The old ones lasted just under 25K miles. This is my 3rd full set. They are the best tires for this car. Also, I just put in my 3rd new cup holder. I guess they break as often as the tires wear out. Plus, the car just had its 90K mile service and my mechanic is warning me that now is the time to start watching for cooling system problems. Otherwise, the car is scheduled for a detail next week and still looks and drives great. It even gets over 30 mpg on the highway. Cannot complain about that.

roadburner · May 2010

Plus, the car just had its 90K mile service and my mechanic is warning me that now is the time to start watching for cooling system problems.

I'd replace the water pump, t-stat/housing, radiator, and expansion tank in the next 10K-20K. While you are at it you might you should also R&R all of the idler pulleys. It's pretty much a straightforward DIY, if you feel so inclined(3-4 hours if you've never done it before).
Oh yeah, and get a TEC cupholder.

pen101 · May 2010

roadburner, thanks for the suggestions. I'll put it on my to-do list when the car hits the 100K mark.

roadburner · May 2010

Glad to help! In my case I put off replacing a noisy pulley on my wife's 110K mile 1997 528i and the blasted thing failed while my wife was driving it to work...

ramr · May 2010

Hi all, I bought a new 2010 535ix with 20 miles. 1 month into I noticed along crank issue ie the car would turn over longer than it shouyld while starting. This apparantly is a known problem. The dealership fixed it but they also updated the car with any software changes. Upon picking up the car I noticed that it drove like my old 2000 Nissan maxima. The gear points had shifted, shifting to early and as a result there was no punch when I tried to accelerate at higher speeds. the dealership mentioned that customers had complained about lurching and BMW had changed the gear shift points in its latest software update. The car has lost its punch and it jerks at every gear transition. Do any of you know about this.

mhutchinson · May 2010

Just replaced my '98 549i due to LR Qtr. panel collision. This one is gorgeous. I have the same frequent coolant light warning written about by others. Had it on the '98 as well. Requires about 8-12 oz. fluid each time the light comes on. Did I miss it or is there a likely cause - poor design of/leaky fill tank, etc.? I don't see evidence of fluid under the car or around the hoses, radiator, thermostat housing. My oil is not discolored nor is there any moisture in the oil filler cap.

BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair

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