BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair

tam2k · July 2004

About 16 days ago, I purchased a 2003 CPO'd 525i with about 12K miles. While driving it yesterday morning, I suddenly had a tire blowout( not a flat) on my front left passenger side. The tire blew without any warning. The car has the original factory tires. Was there any recall on these tires? Has anyone had this experience? I'm going to call the dealer today to discuss. Any advice would be appreciated!

riez · July 2004

tam2k... BMW's CPO program does have some standards in regard to the tires and tire wear. You should ask to see the dealer's data on these criteria, esp. measured tread wear. And see if they have any data regarding whether they properly inflated the tires. Also, ask if these were the original tires.

What make/model/size tire was it?

You don't discuss how fast you were travelling, what sort of load (passengers & luggage) you were carrying, outside temperatures, road surface conditionss, tire inflation info, etc. which might be related to your situation.

Most importantly, what was the diagnosed cause? Was it punctured at all by anything? Had it just hit a big pothole at speed? Were you driving long distances at higher speeds in high heat?

tam2k · July 2004

Riez,

Here are some additional details.

The tires are Michelin Radial XSE 225/55R 16 95H M+S.

We were on the interstate at around 10 am about to begin a 200 mile trip. There were 3 people in the car and a couple of medium size bags in the trunk. We didn't hit any kind of pothole or anything in the road. We were riding along talking and then we heard a loud explosion sound. Then the steering wheel shook and we immediately pulled off to the side of the road. That's when I saw the tire had exploded around the rim of the tire.

I was told that these were the original tires when I bought the car.

I'm going to take the tire for someone to review today.

div2 · July 2004

Happy to help; I'm glad your problem was easily resolved.

enkken · July 2004

I would like to get feedbacks from other owners for a problem, at least I think it is, with the front suspension.

I have a 2000 528iT with 46K miles. Under braking, say approaching a stop light, and hitting a pothole or bump causes the front end to shake violently. It seems like the front end is moving up and down with the steering wheel shaking vigorously. In normal driving, bumps and potholes are swallowed up like they should be. What's disconcerting to me is that when it happens I feel like I have no control over the car. When I took the car in to a BMW dealership, mechanics found all mechanical parts to be fine. Their explanation is that when I hit a bump, ABS kicks in and that's what I am feeling. Does this sound right? Do other owners have similar experience? I have owned other cars with ABSs, but they never kicked in with such intrusive vigor. One complicating factor with diagnosing the problem is that it does not happen all the time, and I have to be braking and hitting decent size potholes just right.

Thanks in advance for your feedback.

andys120 · July 2004

If you are braking and going over bumps at the same time it's almost guaranteed that the ABS will kick in. I'd try going over bumpy roads a little more slowly.

If this persists to an annoying degree find a tech who is willing to take a little ride and feel for himself what's going on but I think you're getting the straight scoop.

vsaxena · July 2004

Whenever the ABS on my Pathfinder kicks in, I can hear it and feel the vibrations. True that the Pathfinder is no E39 but still..

dallas92 · July 2004

I have a 545i but it doesn't have this problem. However, I experienced the same problem in my 2000 A6 2.7T, my service advisor recommended a nice trick that helped get rid of the problem:
1. Roll down the windows
2. Set the temperature to Max., and fan speed to High
3. Get out of the car, and let it run for 10-15 minutes
4. The generated heat should dry up the A/C ducts and release any mold that had accumulated due to cold and high moisture environment

It works, good luck and please let me know if it works. You can repeat this process every couple of months and save yourself painful frequent dealer visits.

My car has a fold-down back seat and I am experiencing a rattle noise from the back seat area, took it to the dealer 5 times w/ no luck. Has anyone experienced a similar problem. It's driving me nuts.

vanalder · August 2004

What brand/model have you used?

church38 · August 2004

All, need some help. Bought my 5iver in Germany and they installed the long european plate holder on the car. When I got back from Germany I took the long plate holder off to install the American plate holder and got a big surprise. There are 2 holes on either side of the American plate holder that are not covered. The dealer used more self tappping screws than holes that were originally in the bumper. I'm looking for an oversized front plate holder for a 525i 2004 BMW to cover the holes made by the dealer. Body shop wants $350 to fix the holes, I might go back to Germany so if I can just cover it I will be happy. Does anyone know where I can buy one?????

seloo · August 2004

I purchased a 2003 525 in Belgium. I found out that BMW has an US and an overseas plate holder. They are easy to pop in and out. Additionally, you can purchase a piece of plastic to replace the plate holder. The car looks much better with a clean front end.

I would hope that the same parts would be available for the 2004 model.

Good luck

jas · August 2004

FYI:
If anybody has a 545 produced after May 04, there is a recall for a problematic ECM that just quits. I just found out today that my 545 is sitting in a parking lot at the VPC with a whole lot of V-8 and V-12 BMW's which cannot be delivered until the ECM is replaced. So if you had a problem, there is a fix.

If you are waiting for one, take a number. There is three months worth of production that needs to be replaced.

Also, if anybody was interested in the E60 bumper reflectors (US cars have a black plate, European and European delivery cars have the reflectors), they are available for special order through the Dealer.

pen101 · August 2004

The following items have caused unscheduled service visits (MY2002 530i):

Clutch failure - 14K miles
Cupholder broken - 16K
Passenger-side seat belt locking mechanism defective - 22K
Rear bumper - 26K (replaced by insurance as a result of rear-end collision)
Foglight - 31K

All but the clutch (most expensive repair) was covered by warranty. At 32k miles, the car still has the original tires, which should last another 5K miles. The oil was replaced only twice, and Service I was performed at 31K miles.

designman · August 2004

As you can see the screw is in a precarious spot on the right front tire. Would like to know whether the tire can be salvaged. I've been here before and they always say no, need a new tire. Have 8300 miles on tires. Looks like they can go to 15,000. If the tire can't be repaired should I replace all four or just this one and wait? I know what dealer service is going to say convention says this can't be fixed but I'm not convinced. Would like to hear from people here who have no interest in taking my money. Div2, Riez, Shipo... are you prepared to do your Godfather service? Thanks.

;-)

ny540i6 · August 2004

D-man, while I am not among the gurus here, I'll toss an opinion based on a long history of flats, (fixer and fixee)... Looking at the photo, it appears that the screw is exactly on the edge of the "real" rolling area (you can see the color line difference). Based on that, and based on the apparent angle that the screw is at, it should come out in a rather sharply angled corner area of the inner tire carcass. A patch would not hold here. The only solution would be a plug, and that is iffy, besides which, I am not a fan of plugs at all. My suggestion would be to replace both tires on that axle. Nice cross-drills, by the way.

carnaught · August 2004

Almost same thing happend to my bro-in-law's 2003 540i with SP and Dunlops. At the dealer, the screw was taken out, being prepared to purchase a new tire. The screw came out and the tire over a month later has not deflated. No patch had been placed.

Keep in mind that every situation is different but a tire dealer initially had told him to just buy a new tire.

div2 · August 2004

Yes, it's right on the ragged edge, though I'd think an internal plug would probably work. These articles appear to agree:
http://www.michelinman.com/care/buy_when.html
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/general/punctures.jsp
If replacement is required, you can get away with just buying one tire. That said, if(like me) you are going to make a habit of collecting screws and nails you might want to look at a less expensive tire that are still performs quite well-such as the Kumho Ecsta MX.

capriracer · August 2004

The problem with the screw in the tire is where it is. The belt edges are the most highly stressed area of the tire, which is exactly where this screw is.

Even though the screw didn't penetrate deep enough to cause the tire to leak air, it did penetrate far enough to expose the steel belts to the outside contaminants, insuring that rust will follow, and tread separation after that. I'd advise replacing this tire.

Hope this helps.

designman · August 2004

Today is wrangle-with-cars day as wife leaves reminder note on keyboard to take 530 in for state inspection appointment. Tire screw is on Boxster. This and a spit load of work drats.

Porsche says replace both tires on axle if tread wear exceeds 30%. Not sure if this is recommendation or if it affects warranty. (Div2 came upon this as a result of your links.)

I'm inclined to go with the internal mushroom plug contingent upon tire inspection at least as a temp, then maybe order new set of Kinesis 18" turbo wheels/tires which I've been wanting anyway, keeping full spare to replace donut.

BTW, tire lost 3 lbs of pressure in 1 1/2 days since discovery.

And so begins another great week. Cars shmars.

;-)

riez · August 2004

designman... Do what the tire manufacturer/tire dealer and automaker recommend.

Have the tire inspected by a tire expert to see if it can be patched or otherwise repaired.

If you replace the one tire, I'd replace both on the same axle.

Some tire manufacturers don't recommend patches for speed-rated tires. Thinking there are only a few that allow patches, but that once patched, the speed rating goes away.

mtjohn · August 2004

The brake pad light just came on in my '01 530ia SP(33K mi but outside free maintainance). What's the approx. cost of a brake job? My understanding is that they will replace the pads and rotors at the same time. Also, back brakes normally wear more slowly--I assume that this will be a separate job down the road. When I made my appt. they said that I have 20% left on the pads when the light comes on. Should I try to squeeze out a few thousand miles or just get the job done? Shipo also mentioned some great pads that don't create so much dust--not sure if I can get aftermarket pads installed at the dealer or if I should go to a good independent (warrantee issues?). Any input appreciated.

Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 report:
When I first mounted these 3K mi. ago, I was a little worried that I wouldn't like them as much as my Continental Contisport Contact 2s. They felt "grabby" with noticeably more sidewall flex. Now that I have broken them in a bit and gotten used to them--they are Fantastic! Once warmed up they are highly predictable and almost impossible to break traction. Yes, still slightly more sidewall flex but noticeably more comfortable ride. I really think they needed to get the outside edges softened just a bit. They feel like the perfect tire for the 530i SP setup. Great on wet roads too for a summer tire. No appreciable noise--I mean none(yet)compared to the howling that I was getting from the Contis before I retired them.

mtjohn · August 2004

One other note:
The Goodyear Eagle F1s are extremely sensitive to tire pressure (as are most high performance summer tires). In my opinion, they needed 2-3 psi front & back over factory recommendation (32 psi. fronts 35 psi. rear). I tried several variations and this seems to do the trick to minimize sidewall flex.

div2 · August 2004

The dealer wants to replace the rotors at every pad change because there is a possibility that the rotors will wear beyond the minimum thickness prior to the second set of pads wearing out. My wife's 1997 528iA eats a set of front pads every 20K or so. I change the rotors every other pad change and have had no problems as a result of following that regimen. The pads you want are the Axxis Deluxe Plus; excellent performance and minimum dust: http://www.zeckhausen.com/axxis_pads.htm
More than a few E39 M5 owners use the Deluxe Plus for their street pads.

jas · August 2004

Here is another suggestion for Brake Pads. I am not sure how they compare to the Axxis.

This recommendation comes from my neighbor who is a BMW modification freak and has done alot of mods to his M3: The pads are Hawk HPS (High Performance Street) pads. They are low-dust, rotor friendly and quiet - as well as a huge stopping improvement. Supposidly, they where a little noisy while they broke in, but after a few days they where as quiet as the OEM pads. According to him, they are on the expensive side, but well worth it.

I am thinking of changing my pads just because I HATE brake dust - let me know what other info you find out.

jas · August 2004

div2 was right on the money with the Axxis Deluxe Plus. Best for dust and noise. Supposedly, you loose a little of the initial 'tactical feel' of the stock pads, but overall braking is not compromised.

Question to div2 - did you notice this difference with the Axxis?

Secondly, the Hawk HPS is a little higher performance. Dusting is a little bit more but still very tolerable. It is a more high performance pad that will be in between the Axxis and the OEM pads with regard to the initial braking feel, but you need to be more conscious about the bed-in to maintain a good dust level on the rotor to minimize any low speed noise.

E60 owners - Axxis Deluxe Plus are not available at this time and probably won't be for awhile.

div2 · August 2004

I ran a set of the original Deluxe pads on the E39 and really couldn't tell much difference in pedal feel. When those wore out I had to go back to OEM pads because I didn't have enough time to order the Deluxe Plus. As before, I noticed little-if any-difference in braking feel. I'm looking forward to trying the Ultimates on the Club Sport; that's the car that I usually drive in a "spirited" fashion...;)

jas · August 2004

Thanks for the feedback. It is nice to have some user feedback before purchasing something like this.

I will give them a try as soon as they are available, which may be awhile. For now, I guess I will just have to stock up on a few more used towels.

Let us know what you think of the Ultimates.

mtjohn · August 2004

Thanks for the info re: Axxis. I am going to try them. I'll

probably have them installed on the back brakes as well even though

they prob. don't need servicing yet. Not sure what my BMW service

dept. will say. I wonder if I am better off going to an independent

shop to have the brakes done?

manybmws · August 2004

I have experienced the same problem on my 530i. Haven't been in for 15K service yet.

div2 · August 2004

As soon as my current set of pads wears out I'm installing the Ultimates and rotors on all four wheels. I'll report on the outcome after they get bedded in.

div2 · August 2004

I can guarantee that your BMW service advisor will say something along the lines of: "Oh, those aftermarket pads are vastly inferior to the BMW pads so we can't install them because they are so dangerous, blah-blah-blah." Find a good independent BMW tech or do the job yourself-it's really not that difficult.

jjohnjohn · August 2004

Hello people! Many Many thanks to all those who provide advice and wisdom. Problem: I put my 1998 528i in second gear, I ASSUMED it was in gear, then all of the sudden BOOM!!! The gear pops out and makes a tremendous noise, scared the crap out of me, it happend few times before, maybe 2-3 times,very infrequently. Did I not put the gear all the way in? Or another problem? Did that incident mess up my engine? transmission? It still rolls fine, but just worried that something may be screwing up. Thanks for your help. - john

andys120 · August 2004

wasn't disengaged all the way. I've done it and suffered no permanent damage.

You don't want to make a habit of it, tho. Make sure your clutch pedal is all the way down before you shift

mtjohn · August 2004

Yep, regarding installation of Axxis pads: BMW service advisor said "we can't be responsible for any damage caused by aftermarket parts and therefore will not install them." It seems the only potential warrantee issue would be if I had an independent shop install aftermarket parts which then caused damage which would then not be covered by my CPO warrantee (i.e. front rotor disintegrates and penetrates my engine block : ) ). I'm cancelling my appt. and going to a good independent to get the Axxis pads and new rotors installed.

rcs525i · August 2004

Hello - I have a 94 525i. The car is in great shape inside and out. I am smelling gas fumes while driving or sitting idle. Look for your expert wisdom and advise.

Much Thanks!
RC

div2 · August 2004

Since your car is 10 years old I suspect it is a deteriorating fuel hose. Pull the rear seat bottom cushion and check to see if fuel is leaking from the hoses or gaskets associated with the fuel pump/sending units. Under the hood, check the fuel rail and all pressurized fuel lines. Inspect the evaporative emissions canister and the related hoses and connections. You really do need to isolate the problem and correct it as soon as possible. Fuel leaks do not improve with age and you run the risk of turning your nice E34 into a rolling barbecue.

anonymousposts · August 2004

Okay, we can buy a 97 528i 5-speed for $5500. Problem is, according to the dealer, cylinder #3 is out. Otherwise the car is in good condition with a few age-appropriate scratches. It has 90,000 miles. Is this car cheap enough to warrant buying it and fixing it. We have three other vehicles so this car would more or less be a nice back-up car if any of our primaries are out of service. It would replace a 94 LS400 that has only had 10,000 miles put on it in the last 3 1/2 years.

andys120 · August 2004

the E34 is a wicked nice car but I don't think I'd swap a perfectly good low miles LS400 for anything with a duff engine.

Given roughly the same age and condition I'd get the Bimmer every time but that's not the case here.

shipo · August 2004

Ummm, I suspect that the car here in question is an E39 not an E34. I would be interested to know why the cylinder is bad. Valves? Rings? Ignition? Hole in the piston? Those things have very different price tags associated with them. A leak down compression test and a bore scope should easily be able to identify if there are any actual mechanical problems with the mill. After all, 97K really isn't that many miles.

Best Regards,
Shipo

div2 · August 2004

I agree with Shipo; the first thing you need to do is find out EXACTLY what is wrong with the motor. The M52 inline six is a very robust design that can go over 200K miles when properly maintained(my wife's 1997 528i has over 106K on the clock and uses absolutely no oil between 8K mile changes). I'd want to know why the engine failed at such a low mileage-poor maintenance? abuse? If the engine wasn't serviced properly then then you can be sure that the rest of the car was neglected as well. The car in question would likely be an excellent project for an experienced DIY owner. That said, it won't be much of a bargain if you have to pay a professional to correct all the problems...

andys120 · August 2004

and I agree with Div2.

veldruk · August 2004

a coworker of mine has offered me a BMW-526-E(1986) for $400 (500 can)
the only problem is it needs throwout berrings
most of the car looks in good repair(needs a lil paint) good deal or am i getting screwed

div2 · August 2004

Are you sure that it's not a 525e or a 528e? They're the same car-528e is the US designation. I've seen decent 528es of that vintage go for under $1000US so $400 is within the realm of possibility. The thing is, while you have the tranny out to replace the T/O bearing you might as well put in a new clutch and pressure plate, all of which will cost around $250US in parts alone. And that's making the unlikely assumption that nothing else needs repair. Really, this would be a great car for the DIY BMW nut who needs/wants a Bimmer beater. If you don't fit that description then I would pass...

karmikan · August 2004

I agree with div2 that the key is DIY or not. If you can do fairly complex work yourself then it *might* be a fair deal. If you plan on taking the car to a mechanic or a stealer (Ugh!) then I'd pass.

Aside from the parts that div2 suggests, you would want to check on the general condition of the engine. Do a compression test, look for oil leaks, check for blow-by etc. Also look for rust-through in the floor, sills and other structural areas (you don't want the car to crumple like a paper bag in an accident). Look carefully at high-ticket components such as suspension, steering linkages, transmission etc. The interior will be a bit beaten up but can you live with the general condition or do you need to replace seats, dash, carpets?

If you can DIY and have a reliable beater for a few hundred $ in parts then it might be a reasonable buy. Bear in mind though that you could be looking at bills that are multiples of your purchase price if you need to have work done on a couple of major components.

vsaxena · August 2004

I have two pebble dings in my windshield of the 2003 525. One of the is in the driver's view.
Should I repair or replace. Deductible is neglibible so insurance is not an issue.

I have heard that replacing the windshield is not good for the car since the seals can never be as good as before. How far is it true?

However, I do not want a repair which will gradually detoriate in time.

karmikan · August 2004

I used one of those DIY repair kits on a previous car and it worked great. Still couldn't see the repair 2 yrs later when I sold the car. A pro would probably do an even better job. I think a lot depends on the extent and depth of the ding, mine was only 1/2" wide with almost no spider-webbing.

In general, windshield replacement isn't a good thing to do because the windshield is a structural component. From personal experience (good & bad) a lot depends on the know-how of the guy doing the work, particularly with European cars.

You might want to consider the easy route of repair first. If that doesn't work out you still have the option of replacing the windshield. Just my 0.02 though.

cruzer · August 2004

I have the same problem. I have a new 545i auto, which was just recalled for 3 weeks because of a bad ECM, and it came back with the same problem they told me the ECM was causing in the tranny. The problem is in the first 3 gears as it has trouble determining which one to use. It holds on too long when upshifting and then downshifts when you slow a little causing engine braking and drag. Finally, when you are coming to a stop, it decides to upshift to 2nd causing a lurch forward which is pretty disconcerting. The engine also shakes a little at idle. Overall, it's really driving badly around town. Highway driving is fine. How did you resolve the problem? I'm moving toward having it declared a lemon. Let me know what your dealer said/did about this. Thanks.

david5 · August 2004

This is a great discussion board. I am new to this board and had a question on Voice command System and hope somebody can answer my question.

I have a new 2004 530 with Nav system. A first time BMW owner and I love it. However, The Voice Command system on the car doesn't work and the salesman tells me I need to have the car phone for it to work. Is this true? If anyone has any info it would be great.

cassidym · August 2004

That's so much malarky. I sat in a new 530 with a salesman in Maryland two weeks ago and he demonstrated the Voice Command system. The car had no cell phone. Check the owners manual and ensure you're using it correctly.

jas · August 2004

FYI: I had called the dealer to find out if they would install the Axxis pads on a new 545 when it is delivered so I did not have any rotor or bed-in issues. I specifically asked them about warranty issues and they said not a problem - the pads would not be covered but everything else would. I also asked if it mattered if they did it or an independent and they also said it would not matter. The problem I have is that Axxis pads are not available for the E60 until next year.

However, if it came down to a rotor issue down the road, I could see them saying that it was the pad that caused the problem.

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