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Comments
Kristy
I know i should have checked the light when it came on but with the hours i work i just didnt have time.. and i keep putting and putting it off. . now im renting a vehicle and i cant stand it... but neways thanks for the information, ill just have to get my dealer to fix it. Yeah it does seem A little expensive but its going to have to be fixed.. How much did you have to pay to get your vehicle fixed jim?
Kristy.
Jimm
Kristy
have a good one.
Jimm
I just got an 06 A3 and I am having a problem playing songs in the SD card slots. I put 4 songs on just to see if they would work and 2 did, 2 did not.
I am using a small 256 SD cards as its all I have in the house which is not SDHC....however before I buy bigger cards im wondering will I be able to do something that will make all my songs play from it? Of those 4 songs they are all the same .mp3 format and have that at the end of the name...
Any help would be fantastic?
Dave
My questions are:
-have others had their rear pads go well before the fronts?
-is this possibly an apportionment issue in terms of front to back braking from the master cylinder?
Thanks! :confuse:
Most of the time, when the engine is started (after idle overnite) the yellow ABS light (and the flashing red BRAKE light) does not comes on ! I can drive a good many miles with no problem. When passing on a 'bump', the ABS light may come on but sometimes it will go off by itself soon after that.
Usually when light has not been on, when I turn off the engine and restart it, ABS/BRAKE lights comes on.
I took it to a mechanic who specializes in German cars. The error message on the computer was P1602 (intermittent power supply voltage low). He removed the necessary items to gain access to the controller. He found that the voltage coming into it was a proper 13.7 V.
He confirmed that the brakes were in excellent shape. When he test drove the car (with the ABS light on) , he found the braking performance to be excellent.
How serious is this problem from a safety standpoint ?
The next morning I received a call that they didn't get as far the driveway before it happened yet again. As of right now, they are offering to let me out of the lease and into a new audi.
Any suggestions regarding which ones to avoid?
This supports the notion that the front brake pads normally wear out faster than the rear ones, so the wear exhibited by your brakes is indeed unusual.
I'm sorry I can't explain why your rear brakes wore out so prematurely. Did the mechanic offer any possible explanation for this phenomenon? If not, and if it were me, I'd seek another opinion.
Good luck, and please let us know the outcome on this problem.
Main issue is this: Non-OEM auto glass manufacturers make copies of OEM auto glass parts. These copies have to vary slightly from the OEM part due to the fact that OEM parts are patented and the designs are protected and trademarked.
Check out the facts at:
http://www.glassusa.com/News.asp?nid=11
what are the issues am i going to face or already facing?
what sort of problems would it have at most with the year of the and considering the kms over the 12yrs?
the car is going for $6800, obviously i will negotiate on that.
one other problem is the car is interstate atm, so i can't my self check it physically and see what the major problems are on it, but i have asked for the seller to send me more pictures on most angles and all receipts done in recent times.
any warnings and advice would be appreciated.
cheers
-right cv joint replace
-control arm upper LHF x2
-dipstick tube
-both wiper blades
-wheel alignment front/rear
-bobs bucket 8pcs
-2 new front tires
-change muffler
there's a few wear and tear within the car it self but also a key scratch on the right hand side front panel, which would cost $150-$200 for a respray?
the miles is reasonably high but for its year its not too bad.
i might consider dropping the price to $5000 and see if he will take it straight off. i work on my own cars in the past n always have service them my self but major work of course at the mechanic as i dont have proper tools for it. but other then that i do hope its no more of a headache then it is buying a second hand car lol
cheers guys
Prior to the leak, my car was running fine and was parked for a few hours. When I started her back up the coolant light immediately went on; I didn't see any puddles under the car. My car is due for its 55K mile service, so I thought the coolant level was just low due to normal driving usage. I was only driving 4 miles back home so I went on the road. Nothing abnormal happened and the temp gage was at its usual place right in the middle of the range. When I pulled in my garage and got out of the car, I saw drip lines on the floor, and smelled a sweet burn of liquid. Within a few minutes, fluid was dripping quickly onto the floor, and a wee bit of smoke was coming from the front of the car. Oh sh**t! I popped the hood for a visual inspection. I didn't see any leaks in the hose, but I really couldn't see alot looking at it with just the hood open and a flashlight. Got down on the floor and it appeared the leak was coming from the passenger side of the engine about half way in (almost next to the wheel on the passenger side of the car). I think the smoke was from the coolant dripping onto the hot metal near the front of the engine (behind the grill).
Any ideas what it could be? Car has 55K miles on it (just out of warranty of course). I hope it is nothing major and won't cost a fortune to fix. Thanks in advance.....
My wife has a '07 A4 2.0T Quattro automatic with 56,000 miles, which is why I'm interested in owner experiences after the factory warranty expires.
My feeling/intuition is that once out of warranty, the resale value of Audis does not match that of its competitors, BMW and Benz, but I haven't thoroughly researched this pricing pattern. Perhaps other have and can contribute?
Interesting you mentioned this...I just saw a very clean, but very miled up, Audi A8 that recently lost its transmission---the owner just gave the car away for free, since the parts + labor costs are formidable. ($6200 parts, 20 hours labor).
Fortunately the A4 is not so maintenance intensive as an A8, but even so, on that '99 A4, a transmission overhaul would be $3200 + 10 hours labor, so that car would be totaled.
The rear drive shaft was just removed from my sons car with bad rag joints and a shot carrier bearing. The repair is going to cost more than the car is worth. Does anyone know if we can just leave the drive shaft out and drive the car on front wheel drive only?? It is still a fairly solid car but is on its last leg.