Toyota Highlander Maintenance and Repair

chankaishi · February 2005

I noticed that manual states that I can program my keyless entry to unlock all door at once with a single press, rather then double press in default setting. Manual said that I need to contact dealership to do that which quoted me $50 for that. I'm pretty sure it's 10 step process worth 5 minutes total and don't beleive it's a fair price I'm supposed to be paying to reprogram the vehice. Anybody has instructions how to do that?

rugby65 · February 2005

Are you sure you want to do that? I drive a lot by my self and I don't always remember to lock the door back after I take off. I don't want to be driving around town with all the door's unlocked nor do I want my wife to. And I know she won't remember to re-Lock all the door's when she's driving by her self.

So it's better to just have one door unlocked.

at least for me..............................

ecotrklvr · February 2005

Not to pick on you personally - does that second push on that button really take that much out of you? Or is it the nagging knowledge that it could be "better" and need only one push? It is that way for a reason, and I think it's a good one. I just got back from trip to Vegas, and in those big parking structures Caesar's Palace late at night (early morning?)I'm glad I didn't have to unlock the opposite sides' doors to get in. Stay safe.

ecotrklvr · February 2005

Just FYI, for those with low (or high) idle-speed problems:

After cleaning the Idle Speed Control Valve on Wednesday evening, I took a 500-mile banzai run to Vegas and back. I left at 5:30am Thursday morning, and just got back 5:30pm Friday night. Results my ISCV experiment - it's like new. Much better than I thought it would be. I left the throttle stop per factory specs, and no low speed idle problems, no high-speed idle problems, no cold-start problems (at least at Las Vegas morning temperatures of 40'F)- just a normal higher-for-awhile after the cold start, then about 2 minutes later, back to about 700RPM. So far, it's cured.

vlanman25 · February 2005

HI: I bought a 2005 4-Cyl FWD Highlander a few weeks ago. So far so good (if you can say that with 400 miles on a car), however, at warm idle I notice a vibrating sound when I step on the brake. I think it might be coming from the booster or possibly the air cleaner assembly which appears to be kind of loose.

Has anyone else experienced this?

Is the air filter assemble supposed to float in it's holder? I notice a plastic piece at the bottom.

I'd hate to take the vehicle to the dealer for something that might be trivial or normal.

Regards and safe driving to all,

Ken

jackmick656 · February 2005

I notice there is no mention in the maintenance scedule about changing the fuel filter. Has anyone seen a fuel filter on a Highlander? If so please tell us where it is. Thanks.

edh · February 2005

my 94 camry has no change frequency.

some top toyota forums run by ex service advisors say adamantly to NEVER change the filter.

loucapri · February 2005

Agree with you.

I got the same answer from one toyota service manager. He told me the fuel filter doesn't need to be replace unless I am having trouble with my car (which I don't have any problem at all 97 Camry @ 110k miles and 01 HL @ 90K miles)

On the other hand, another toyota dealer didn't explained to me at all but just telling me it will cost about $250 (if I remember correctly) to have it replace on my Camry

loucapri · February 2005

I own a 2001 2WD 4 cyl

I got it last yr at 79K miles on it. I put about 10K and no problem at all. I have not seen problem like most others in this board.

Car still runs and sounds great. You can't really tell it actually have about 89K miles right now.

I don't know your driving condition but in Seattle, we have snow once or twice in the winter time and the 2WD has a "snow mode". In my opinion, it doesn't do anything at all. Just like putting your car in 2nd gear. I still couldn't get out of my driveway.

If that's not an issue, I think the 2WD is more valuable than the V6. But keep in mind, it's a 4, not V6 so don't expect too much on the power side. But it works for us. My wife drives that car with my baby and it get a little better gas mileage over the V6.

Overall, she likes it and it's a keeper for now.

nimrod99 · February 2005

I have a 2003 V6 AWD LTD, with 39,000 miles.

I am trying to trouble-shoot a braking issue.

When braking gently, I can feel the car slow down but it seems like the car is surging (like the pads are gripping on high spots on the rotor).

Also - if braking moderately at freeway speeds. The steering wheel will pulse (just like it feels with an unbalanced tire), but my tires are balanced. The pulsing seems to match the wheel rpm. Also, the surging matches the wheel rpm (as the vehicle slows, so does the surging).

I have used a dial indicator on the rotors and they are +/- 0.001" run out. This is when they are cool. It could be worse when they are hot.

Today, it was raining, and I noticed the effect was less when the brakes were cold.

Could I have the dreaded "warped rotor" condition, or is it something else?.

Anybody have this problem and how was it resolved.

I am about to spend $150 on a pair or rotors and another $45 on a set of brake pads. I don't trust the dealer to work on my car.

Thanks

georgeb7 · February 2005

http://www.aiada.org/article.asp?id=32627

georgeb7 · February 2005

Feb. 5--The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration plans to look into a transmission hesitation problem in certain Lexus and Toyota models to determine whether to go forward with a full investigation .

http://www.aiada.org/article.asp?id=32627

mikefm58 · February 2005

I've had several vehicles with the dreaded warped rotor disease. The symptoms were exactly like you listed. The only known cure without replacement is to "turn the rotors" as long as they stay within specs. I've seen ads from auto parts stores for $10 if you bring the rotors in.

ecotrklvr · February 2005

It sure sounds like warped rotors. Sometimes this is due to cheap rotors - not enough thermal mass to hold up under heavy braking. But more often it's due to bad procedures in torquing the wheel nuts. I've experienced this first hand, at the hands of an over-zealous tire-mounting jockey at a local tire store. (Since then, I only go to tire stores that offer the "hand-torque" to final torque specs).

When I had my warped rotors, I was able to get it a little better by re-torquing the wheels. First, jack up the vehicle, loosening all 5 nuts, and re-torquing all five in the 5-cross pattern - and incrementally at that. By 5-cross I mean snugging up the first one, then going clockwise, skipping the next one, and snugging number 3. Then 5, then 2, then 4. Keep going, tighter each time (I use three passes), until you have them all to spec. When I do it, I do the first-stage of loosening before jacking up the vehicle - and the last tightening after lowering.

ecotrklvr · February 2005

I just got a 2002 4-cyl. It doesn't have the Traction Control that the 2004 and later models do.

I'm working from the theory that the Traction Control can't make any more traction - it just uses the brakes to transfer power from the slipping side to the other side. As the extreme example, if both tires are bald, you still won't go anywhere - both tires will slip. Essentially, a vehicle with good tires and no Traction Control will get thru more bad conditions than a vehicle with Traction Control and weak tires. So, I'm investing in some good All-Season rubber. I've read some not-too-flattering posts about the OEM tires. What tires does anyone recommend in the All-Season category for the Highlander's 225-70R16? The Yokohama Geolander H/T-S G051 looks good - anyone have these? How about the Michelin LTX M/S - are they worth the extra $$?

edh · February 2005

teenagers also cause warped rotors

mtrialsm · February 2005

I have wind noise at the rear passenger side

window/door. Plan on taking it to the dealer.

I've got 6k miles.

nimrod99 · February 2005

Thanks for your input.

I have always torqued my own wheels - to 80 ft-lbs, using a cross pattern.

I don't think I want to "turn" the rotors. When its all said and done (factoring labor charges, waiting for the vehicle etc), I am just going to buy new rotors and pads, and install them myself.

Looking at the physical design of the rotor and how the wheel attaches, it look like it would be impossible to warp the rotor by over tightening the lug nuts.

The lug studs are attached to the axle hub flange. The rotor goes over the flange and sits flush against it. The wheel mounts to the rotor in the same area of the rotor / hub flange.

The only downside to over tightening the lugs would be to stretch the studs ever so slightly, as all the surfaces in question are all stacked against each other like a stack of pancakes.

How this can deflect or even influence the rotor disk where the pads are - is beyond me.

I think its more likely to be a design issue with cast iron parts, ventilated disks.

Thats just my 2 cents.

mikefm58 · February 2005

<< I don't think I want to "turn" the rotors. When its all said and done (factoring labor charges, waiting for the vehicle etc), I am just going to buy new rotors and pads, and install them myself >>

You'd rather spend $150 for new rotors rather than spend the $10 - $20 to turn the old ones? You still have to take the old ones off since you said you're doing the work yourself. It's your money.

gwkiser · February 2005

GO TO POST 7198 in main Highlander forum. I've never tried it, so USE AT YOUR OWN RISK.

nimrod99 · February 2005

Lets add it up and see what happens if I do it your way.

Take off the old rotors.

Find some way to take them to the place to turn them (maybe get a taxi).

Wait a couple of hours for them to be turned.

Hope that the person doing the turning does it properly.

Get them back and take another taxi home.

So in total - I would have taken about 4 to 6 hours of my time messing with bad rotors. You can define for yourself, how much your time is worth.

The problem may still be there - as the issue only happens when the rotors are hot. I assume they don't turn the rotors at operating temperature. Not only that - turning the rotors leaves them thinner than before and even more susceptible to warping.

I would rather put fresh set of rotors and pad on. I'll take the old one to my dealer and get Toyota corp to refund my costs.

edh · February 2005

go to a modern shop that turns them on the car as Toyota suggests best machines are "pro tec or something like that. . have them turned. even if you buy new rotors you may have to have them tweaked.

mikefm58 · February 2005

You didn't mention the fact that it's very inconvenient for you to go to the auto parts store. That does change things. If it were me, I'd just borrow my wife's car. I've had the rotors turned twice on my '99 CRV and they're still within specs. You can do the math to figure how much I've saved versus putting on new rotors.

And how do you think Toyota will refund the cost of the new rotors? They're wearable items not covered on warranty, unless you've some kind of extended warranty that covers rotors, which I've never heard of.

I'm not trying to be a pain here, just making a suggestion hoping to save people some money.

It's your car and your money, you do what you want.

elimar · February 2005

I have the same problem with my 2002 V6 AWD with 36,000 miles when slightly braking at freeway speed only (about 65-70mph) but could not feel the pulsing at the steering at lower speeds. I had all my wheels balanced during my last wheel alignment but the problem is still there.

My mechanic friend suggested that before spending too much on parts(also on labor), try to clean the rotor which I did and the problem was gone for a while and then back again lately. He told me several reasons why this problem occur:

1) warped rotor

2) defective pads/shims

3) rotor/pads oil/grease contamination

4) wheel balancing/tire pressure

5) brake piston cylinder

6) brake proportioning valve

He suggested to start with the obvious and less expensive ones.

As of now, I got no time checking/doing any of these. I also don't trust the dealer doing my brakes.

I'll keep you posted for any solution or post your solution if you find it first.

Have a nice day.

kads · February 2005

Thanks for updating us with the news from Pittsburgh. Glad NHTSA is looking out for our safety, Toyota has demonstrated they won't regardless how many customers complain.

sauncy · February 2005

I have a 2003 V6 AWD with 48k. I heard a similar noise shortly after purchasing. At 48K I need the left hub replaced for the second time. Toyota covered the cost, but will it fix the problem? I am considering trading for the 2WD. I love the Highlander but don't really want the problem. Also for the steering wheel noise, I have had it greased for the 2nd time and they said the camrys are worse than Highlander and it was routine maintenance?

sauncy · February 2005

Have them check the hubs! I have a 2003 V6 AWD and at 48K I am waiting for the parts for my second left rear hub. I heard a small noise at about 10K and they said it was normal. It will get worse. They said they have never had any problems, of course that is only one dealer?

loucapri · February 2005

is your 02 AWD?

I have a 01 4-cyl myself but is a FWD no Traction Control as well.

I kind of agree with you about good traction on the tires. If the tires bald and slip, it's going to slip no matter what (as far as I am concern)

One other thing is my FWD has a "SNOW MODE" but it is noting but put your car in 2nd gear, just like a normal "P-R-N-D-2-1"s "2". I think sometime they put in so many term and 'features' that sounds like they are really cool but in fact, it's nothing but sales and marketing terms

ecotrklvr · February 2005

Mine is 2WD - really FWD; not AWD.

I have a pretty cheap set of tires on it now, put on by the previous owner. They are Korean (the tires, that is). If I stomp on the accelerator from a dead stop, or nail it while coming out of a turn, I'll spin a tire (sometimes both). With Snow Mode engaged, it is a little more controllable off the line. So, I can see how it might help in slippery conditions. It is a cheap and easy thing for Toyota to do, and might help some folks (lead-footed) keep from spinning a tire.

racerx1 · February 2005

For tires, my research shows favorable reviews for the following in 227/70-R16

Nokian WR SUV - only all-season tire with extreme winter certification

Michelin Cross Terrain

Michelin LTX M/S

and Connor at Tirerack recommends the new Bridgestone Dueler Alenza, primarily a luxury tire for SUVs with good dry/wet traction.

If you drive in snow, I would go with the Nokians which also are quiet. I'm going to get those when my OEM BStone Dueler H/Ls wear out.

bobgordon · February 2005

Just a FYI.

Being in the auto/truck industry for many years, here's a rule regarding brake rotors.

Many of the major auto makers now recommend that rotors be NOT machined or turned, just replaced. And from what I've experienced, they are right but I knew this before they brought it public.

We all know what heat does to metal. After a period of time, the heat generated by hard or excessive braking will warp a rotor.

The problems by machining/turning a rotor is many.

The tech doing the service probably doesn't know how to do it correctly. Often they are in a hurry and remove too much metal at one time, again creating heat.

The other problem is that the rotor might "true" up after re-surfacing but once the heat from braking is applied, chances are, the warp will occur all over again.

Another very important issue as mentioned above is that ALL wheel lugs must be properly torqued in sequence.

Save yourself time and money, make sure all your brake components are working correctly and if your rotors are warped...replace them.

Regards.

nimrod99 · February 2005

Thanks for the input. I agree.

I still don't understand how overtightening lug nuts (equally and in sequence) can affect the rotor disk as the bolt forces are near the axle and no force is being applied to the disk?

The hub, rotor, and wheel mounting surface are all flat, and stack on top of each other, so there shouldn't be any twisting or bending force.

Am I missing something?

mikefm58 · February 2005

A difference of opinion. My '99 Honda CRV with 104K miles has had the rotors turned twice, but then again, they weren't warped either. The brake pads were in need of replacing and the work was done by an auto shop I trust. I rotate the tires myself being sure everything is properly torqued.

Unless the manufacturer recommends differently, I'll probably continue.

ecotrklvr · February 2005

Lug-nut tightening is crucial because the accuracy of the plane of the center hub determines the accuracy of the plane of the brake surface. Distort the inner plane, and you can't not distort the outer plane. Plus, if the smaller diameter hub is distorted .002 inch, the outer edge is out by 0.006 or more.

I am resisting the urge for the cheap Seinfeld character line...

typesix · February 2005

Snow mode starts the car off in 2nd gear to minimize wheelspin. Putting the shifter in 2nd will not start off a Highlander in 2nd gear, it will do a normal 1st gear takeoff and then shift into 2nd. Some vehicles will start off in 2nd gear if auto shift is manually selected for 2nd.

nimrod99 · February 2005

Thanks for your input.

However - I don't see how the hub plane can be distorted as the clamping force exerted by the wheel mounting plane and the hub (with the rotor sandwiched in between)doesn't exert a net overall force to deflect the plane of the hub. The clamping force is "internal". Take a plate with a hole through it. Stick a bolt through the hole and tighten a nut on the other side. The bolt is in tension (a lot of force), but I can hold the plate in my hand and the bolt clamping force won't cause the plate to bend.

I could see how cornering forces on the tires would be transmitted to the hub and wheel bearings to deflect them.

ecotrklvr · February 2005

It does seem strange, I agree. But I had it happen to me before I ever thought about why it happens. Two warped brake rotors in one hour, during a visit to a tire store for a spin balancing. I noticed it on the way home, after two stops. When I went back to Mediocre Week's (or a shop with a similar name) to complain about it, they told me that it wasn't common, but it did occasionally happen, and that it had to be because the rotors were about ready to warp on their own anyway. I didn't believe it, then or now. They refused to pay for new ones as I couldn't prove they weren't warped to begin with. Life in the big city. That's why I now get my wheels and tires serviced at a place that advertises Hand Torquing Only as their written policy. When you ask them why, they tell you that it's to avoid over torquing, and the warped rotors it causes.

Thinking about it now, it's never happened to any of my rear discs; unlike the front rotors, they aren't weakened by the spaces in the casting that they need to add for ventilation. Perhaps it's the imperfections that this extra complexity adds to the structure that makes them more vulnerable to dimensional instability - whether caused by thermal cycling, or by exceeding some design limit on clamping force linearity.

Now my brain hurts from thinking about all this. Man I'm glad it's Friday, and I've got good true rotors. Good luck with your new ones.

edh · February 2005

One reason is impact wrenches.

Many lug nuts need 60 - 90 ft lb torque. But even a small impact wrnch will put out 325 ft lb torque.

they do mega damage in dumb hands.

wwest · February 2005

The front brakes need those "spaces" for cooling because they provide ~70% of the stopping HP. The rear brake don't because.....

ecotrklvr · February 2005

wwest - Well, duh. But they do weaken them. Which was my point. QED

wwest · February 2005

Even with the cooling fins the front brake rotor is a whole LOT stronger than the solid rear.

ecotrklvr · February 2005

Maybe it is stronger, and maybe not. Not sure what you mean by "stronger" anyway. Kind of irrelevant in a discussion about warping. But the ventilated front rotor isn't as structurally or thermally stable as the solid rear - which was the point of the post about warped rotors.

They can't and don't make front rotors non-ventilated, because they have so much more work to do at the front of the vehicle - they need a way to cool themselves so they don't wear out and/or warp even faster than they already do. The downside is that they are more prone to warping than solid rotors.

phrosut · February 2005

I posted my "opinion" a long time ago, but so far it has not been disproved:

After severe braking, if you remain stopped and allow all of the brake pad heat to transfer to only one spot on the rotors, I think you are at risk for rotor warping. Any vehicle, some more vulnerable than others.

Whenever I have braked severely enough that I think there may be some heat buildup, I "inch" forward every few seconds to distribute that heat more evenly over the entire rotor.

This hypothesis has little basis in scientific fact. I spent over a decade in the auto repair and brake/tire field, and only 'think' this to be a factor in rotor warping from my personal experience. I have about 34,000 miles on my HL so far, but I have NO warped rotor vibrations.

Other drivers may think I'm impatient at some stoplights, as I keep inching forward. They probably don't realize I'm just attempting to more evenly distribute some heat to my rotors.

Phil

ecotrklvr · February 2005

Phil - I like your idea - I'm going to start this procedure immediately.

Not only does this approach have the ability to do what you wrote, by moving the contact area between pad and rotor, evenly around the rotor for more even heat input to the rotor - it also allows the rotor's vents to get a slightly different "view" of the surrounding air at each "inch", to allow for more even heat output from the rotor to the air.

I really like this idea. It reminds me of a tip my Dad gave me when I was 16 - after driving thru water, or even a deep puddle, apply the brakes for a few seconds while driving to allow them to drag and heat up, to dry out the drums and linings. I've never seen this concept in an Owner's Manual - just as I'm sure we'll never see yours - but they are both based on proven principles and sound logic.

grahampeters · February 2005

G'day

Maybe we do things differently down under but the instructions to apply brakes gently to dry them after a water crossing is routinely inserted in owners manuals and driving instructions her in Australia.

Maybe we see more water than you do

Cheers

Graham

ecotrklvr · February 2005

Graham -

I suspect we see it as well, but just don't cross it. So much well-drained concrete over here.

What are your thought about the rotor-cooling technique that Phil came up with?

ecotrklvr · February 2005

Graham -

I suspect we see it as well, but most don't cross it. So much well-drained concrete over here.

What are your thought about the rotor-cooling technique that Phil came up with? Also, is Kluger pronounced with a hard or soft "g"? Put another way, does it rhyme with the German pistol Luger, or with "luger" - the crazed folk that race on ice-slicked tracks?

grahampeters · February 2005

G'day

The day I picked up my Kluger was the all time wettest (and coldest) February (summer down under)day on record for Melbourne so the car got its first wading moment lesss than a minute after I got in. It was well baptised! We had six inches of rain in the day and are still cleaning up a fortnight later.

The pronunication appears to be like the pistol with a hard "g".

The brake cooling seems to make sense although I am still getting used to the need to have to hold the brakes on hard to stop. I've been driving a manual for many years and tended to rely on modulated braking to reduce brake force in the final stages of a stop, effectively easing off to viturally no brake by the time the car coasts to a stop. With an automatic's tendency to run on, I find I have to brake right down to the line in the Toyota so am still having a few moments! It's a bit disconcerting to ease off the brakes expecting the car to coast to a halt only to find it apparently taking off again.

Cheers

Graham

ecotrklvr · February 2005

I too wish that Toyota would make the Highlander/Kluger available with the manual trans - at least with the 4-cylinder. This is my first auto trans since 1993, and it's OK. Just OK. It really does a very good job, for an auto.

Is the Honda CR-V (or equivalent) available in Australia? My last vehicle here was a 1999 with a stick. Great vehicle, but the 2005's seemed cramped for me, so I picked up the Highlander instead. So far, so good. Seems very well sorted out.

acgc · February 2005

Hello to all,

Just wanted to add a review after one year of ownership, then ask a question.

I bought a '04 Highlander 6 cyl AWD after looking at Pilot and Pathfinder. Bought it because of ride and MPG and because dealer did work with purchase price (which Honda wouldn't).

After one year I offer the following comments: the car is practical for trips to Vermont and is excellent in snow. The car has the infamous "hesitation" under certain circumstances but I have learned to live with it (though it bothers me for a $30K car). It rides great, gets decent gas mileage compared to other SUVs'.

The problem's I seeing now after 15K miles and am asking if anyone has had the same problems are these:

When turning, I feel "clicks" through the steering wheel, i.e., it just doesnt feel smooth. Like you were going over bumps (but Im not). I have never experienced this in any other car. Does anyone experience this?

Also, over the last couple of weeks, the heater/ac fan in the dash has started a chirping and mild squealing noise that Im sure will get louder. Anyone ever dealt with this??

Looking forward to any responses or answers. Much appreciated.

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