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Toyota Highlander Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • johnny5johnny5 Member Posts: 13
    ACGC, I have an '04 LTD with 14K miles and am experiencing the same faint clicks in the steering that you seem to feel. I notice it more at low speed and mostly while turning, more to the right than to the left. It's frustrating, since at my last servicing the service manager reported that the problem was not reproducible. It appears to be getting a little more pronounced as time goes on. It's due for its 15K servicing soon, so I'll post again to let you know if they find anything this time.
  • snakehairsnakehair Member Posts: 120
    The noise in the heater fan may be from debris falling in through the air intake. We had it on our '01 and was told it was fairly common. Taking the glove compartment down looking behind the cover for the cabin air filter might show if there is any twigs or leaves. Steering wheel clicks may be caused by the spring inside the steering wheel to keep electrical contact while the wheel is turning. Haven't had it on the HL but clockspring problems were common in the Dodge Caravan.
  • acgcacgc Member Posts: 2
    thanks for your reply (and johnny5 also). as a follow-up, when the car was brand new, only experienced the steering wheel "clicking" very rarely, now it is more common. the explanation of possible "spring" for electrical connection makes sense. Something to keep an eye on also.

    When it gets warmer, I'll take a look at the cabin filter, because the squeaking noise from heater fan does seem to come and go. thanks again.
  • hmurphyhmurphy Member Posts: 278
    There was an article in the NY Times about potential failure of the brake booster in 2004 RX330's.

    I don't know if the HL has the same part, so I don't want to be an alarmist, but I thought I'd share the link.

    http://www.nytimes.com/2005/02/16/business/16lexus.html

    (Note that you have to register on the NY Times site in order to read the article.)
  • lojloj Member Posts: 1
    I have an '01 Highlander and three times in the last week it has started making a loud noise. The noise only lasts a few minutes until I slow down or come to a complete stop. The noise sounds very much like the thudding one hears when driving on a flat tire. Of, course the dealer has been unable to duplicate the noise and therefore is unable to offer a suggestion as to what is causing the noise. Has anyone else had this noisy problem?
  • boblaxboblax Member Posts: 4
    Hi cin8

    I have a 2001 V6 4WD Highlander 78500 miles. I only have this Intermittent start up problem at summer time (very hot day over 110).Do you find the way to resolved this issue? I took it to dealer , but they can not find anything wrong!

    Bob
  • boblaxboblax Member Posts: 4
    Hi All

    I have a 2001 V6 4WD Highlander 78500 miles. I only have this Intermittent start up problem at summer time (very hot day over 110).Do you find the way to resolved this issue? I took it to dealer , but they can not find anything wrong!

    Bob
  • 590116590116 Member Posts: 32
    I had a somewhat similar experience for the first time today (2002 HL V6): was driving in light rain (at about 36 degrees temp) at 65-72mph and would get a sound like hitting the "rumble strip". I'd slow and it would abate and then go away completely. A while later, same thing. It went on for miles if I stayed at speed. Nothing on the roadway that appeared to be the cause. Tires seem fine. It was very much a "fluttering" like something loose and flapping rapidly. Could spray from other cars be a cause? It lessened when rain slackened and roadway was dryer.

    Any ideas?
  • nimrod99nimrod99 Member Posts: 343
    2003 V6 AWD ltd with 40,000 miles.
    Been having an issue with braking (see post 2370).
    Finally installed new brake rotors and pads. Wow - what a difference. All problems have gone away. I discovered 2 new issues.
    1) One of the brake pad anti rattle clips (not anti squeal shims) was broken and had almost worked it's way out of the groove, allowing one end the pad to be "loose" in the housing. This probably contributed to the rattle noise I used to hear going over the lane divider bumps. I replaced them all and now my pads dont rattle anymore.
    2) My right front wheel bearing seems a little loose. I noticed on the dial indicator I was using to check rotor run-out, that I could "rock" the rotor (it was bolted down using the lug nuts). The play at the outside diameter was about 0.005". The service manual says the acceptable axial play at the center of the hub, just outside of the large axle nut should be less than 0.002". I only found this information after I had finished putting the wheel back on.
    I think at the point where the dial indicator was located (at the OD of the rotor) a .002" movement at the bearing would be magnified (using simple proportional scaling)

    My question to anyone knowledgeable about wheel bearings. Can I tighten the center nut on the axle to take out some of the play (it says to tighten to 220 ft-lbs). The service manual says to replace the bearing.

    Has anyone had any problems with their FRONT wheel bearings?.
    thanks
  • skochskoch Member Posts: 1
    Is there anyway to reset the onboard average gas mileage computer? I find it odd that the average gas mileage cannot be reset after you refuel or during a trip. The Toyota dealer couldn't find an answer.
  • bdymentbdyment Member Posts: 573
    Unfortunately there is no way to reset the average gas mileage computer on 2004 and 2005 Highlanders. Some of the earlier models seem to have a reset button incorporated in the info. screen.

    As you have found it resets when refilling. I agree that this is a strange way of doing things.
  • bobgordonbobgordon Member Posts: 156
    nimrod99,
    I see a lot of 4WD/AWD front bearings go bad. They are not adjustable (current vehicles) and it's usually the right (curb) side that goes first. This is due to the road surface is more rough along that side than the left causing bearing failure...not to mention the "curb".
    The value you have for the wheel bearing is a factory pre-load setting. The bearing is a "sealed" bearing and should be replaced if the axial play exceeds the recommended value.
    In other words, the axle shaft nut CANNOT be tightened to remove any bearing play.
    Hope this helped.
  • boblaxboblax Member Posts: 4
    I have 2001 HL. We can reset the on board average gas mileage computer by hold the info button when showing average gas mileage for more then 5 sec. I hope your HL can let you reset it.
  • nimrod99nimrod99 Member Posts: 343
    Thanks for the input.
    Being paranoid as I am, I re checked the right side bearings last night.
    Sure enough, I could "feel" a little rocking with the wheel jacked up off the ground.
    However, when I put a dial indicator on the hub, I could not measure any movement (book says limit is 0.002"). I couldn't get the hub to move axially, and even when I "rocked" the rotor (with it bolted to the hub) the play at the point of measurement was imperceptible.
    I did confirm about 0.005" rock at the OD of the rotor.
    Look like it's OK.

    Thanks
  • annatovaannatova Member Posts: 2
    My brakes just failed on my 2003 Toyota Highlander. Has anyone heard of any problems with Toyota brakes? Or why this might occur? I was parking my car and was moving slowly; the brake pedal simply went to the floor - really weird.

    I am not even sure whether to take the car to a dealer to evaluate or an independent mechanic for a objective evaluation.

    Any comments or suggentions greatly appreciated.

    Thanks.
  • bdymentbdyment Member Posts: 573
    I don't know about the 2002 and 2003 models, but the 2004 and 2005 will not set the way you indicate. I wish my 2004 V6 LTD would reset via the info. button. No one seems to know why Toyota changed this feature to a refill with gasoline default.
  • cmunizcmuniz Member Posts: 604
    The 03 should still be under warranty. If so, I would start with the dealer to get it looked at/repaired without cost to you. If they give you a hard time or won't fix it under warranty, then consider another repair shop. Several people have complained about "mushy" brakes, but none to my knowledge about a complete failure.
  • bobgordonbobgordon Member Posts: 156
    I agree that your vehicle should be inspected by the dealer since it's still covered under warranty.
    Two things will cause your brake pedal to go to the floor;
    1)An open in a brake line resulting in loss of brake fluid.
    2)A malfunctioning master cylinder.
    Check the fluid level in your master cylinder and this will help you in determining where the fault might be.
    In either case, I would NOT drive your HL. Contact your dealer and have them arrange a towing company to come pick it up.
    Good luck and keep us posted.
  • annatovaannatova Member Posts: 2
    Thank you for the suggestions. The car is at the dealer and so far they've determined the master cylinder has not failed and it does not appear there is a leaking brake fluid. A friend suggested there might be moisture in the line and recommended having the brake line flushed. The dealer also test drove the vehicle and says it brakes fine. I'll ask them to look into the problem further. A second opinion is definitely a good idea.
  • jbolltjbollt Member Posts: 736
    annatova and all...very scarey feeling...A few years ago, late 1999, my wife experienced complete brake falure in a 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan, that resulted in her rear ending the car in front....she was going only 25 mph. The dealer claimed they found no failed parts, and determined all was operating as designed. hmm...we still think the ABS was at fault, perhaps when it was in the process on "pumping" the brakes, it "forgot" to re-apply once. Truely scarey, and my wife was no longer comfortable driving the car. We bought an 2000 Avalon, and now have a 2003 Camry and a 2003 Highlander. We have not experienced any soft, mushy or strange brake feel in either car.
  • bobgordonbobgordon Member Posts: 156
    It's possible that moisture is in your brake system but that new of a vehicle, I'd doubt it unless the system has been opened or worked on.
    I'd still look at the master cylinder. The thing is that a wearing/worn master cylinder can fail at one point, then be fine at another. What should be done is to pull the master cylinder away from the power booster unit and inspect to see if there is any evidence of brake fluid at the back seals/o-rings. This can be done without removing the brake lines.
    Good luck.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Please remember that a failure within the anti-lock braking system, a check valve blocked open by debris, for instance, can result in temporary, non-recurring failure in just the manner you describe.

    The anti-lock system has the ability, in failed mode, to fully release the brake pressure at all or any individual wheel.
  • pratanvpratanv Member Posts: 2
  • pratanvpratanv Member Posts: 2
    I would really appreciate your reply. I've just bought a 2005 Highlander and after 2 weeks there is steering wheel noise, whichs occur when the car is moving and the wheel is turned. I took the car in and and they also said it is the noise form the cable and after they change the cable the noise did not go away, and there is nothing they can do about it. How is your experience ?. Thank you.
  • 04owner04owner Member Posts: 1
    I'm not looking for a solution any longer. I'm expressing my deep disappointment with my Toyota Highlander. My Highlander has not lived up to the quality car set by Toyota standards. I have owned mine for 6 months. Here are the list of things that have been wrong with it. Complete brake failure. The bracket collapsed during an evasive maneuver and locked the brakes to the floor which also caused the front rotors to catch fire! Transmission leak. The dealer changed the gasket to fix the leak. One week later it was worse. They found a crack in the transmission case and when it went into overdrive the pressure squirted the fluid out the crack. Monday it goes in to the shop so they can find that elusive steering "popping" when turning the wheel while cornering at any speed. And they will be trouble shooting my sunroof which I wanted to use for the first time in nice weather as to why the auto open/close does not work nor will it stop at the closed position and you have to "guess" at when it is sealed. I actually thought I was trading up when I gave up my Camry. I'd like to believe that not all Hilanders are like this. I think mine was built on a Monday after Mardi Gras.
  • jbolltjbollt Member Posts: 736
    It is certainly unnerving to hear of the issues you have had. My 03 Highlander V6 fwd has been absolutely perfect, for 25,000 miles. One small bit of help for you...the sunroof needs to be "normalized" (2004 and later years) The instructions are in the owners manual. A friend bought an 04, and had the same complaint, and in 30 seconds the normaliazation fixed his only complaint with the vehicle.
  • buckeye10buckeye10 Member Posts: 6
    I am stuck on whether to buy a used 04 2WD Limited highlander or a 05 EX-V6 Accord. I know they are two different vehicles but I have always driven a car and wanted a SUV. Some of my concerns
    Highlander -
    Hesitation problem
    Gas milage 18/25
    Seats are more comfortable

    Accord -
    better gas milage 21/30
    cost is a little cheaper
    nice ride/nice accerlation
    I am really torn, any input would be greatly appreciated.
  • hmurphyhmurphy Member Posts: 278
    I think you answered your own question when you said these are "two different vehicles." It's difficult to equitably compare a sedan and an SUV.

    On the other hand, I traded an 03 EX-V6 Accord for an 04 V6 HL Limited and have never looked back. Yes, the gas mileage is much worse, but that's about the only drawback. I haven't experienced the hesitation problem on the Highlander, by the way.

    My perception is that the HL is put together a bit better and uses higher-quality materials than the Accord, but that's just an individual opinion.

    One caveat: If you don't get the V6 HL, you might not be as satisfied with the acceleration as compared to the V6 Accord.
  • snakehairsnakehair Member Posts: 120
    We own a '01 HL limited and a '03 Accord EXV6. I use the Accord for commuting and fun driving (it really is a blast to drive) and the HL for any hauling and long trips (even with the lesser mileage it is much more comfortable). Neither has been "bulletproof" but pretty close in comparison to each other as far a reliability. Accord has rattle and squeak problems, HL hesitation and mushy brakes. Drive them both. They are two different animals, but both worth the money.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    We traded our 01 Accord LX 4 cyl for an 04 2WD Highlander 4 cyl. The big differences we saw was so much more room and easier to get in and out, plus driving an SUV on the highway where we sit up higher is so much better than a car. I'd recommend deciding car vs. SUV then take your pick from there.
  • gerrym1gerrym1 Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone experienced any problems putting air in the spare?
  • snakehairsnakehair Member Posts: 120
    Have never had the spare out of the well. I carry an inexpensive air pump that works off of 12 v outlet just in case I need to replace a flat tire.
  • desertguydesertguy Member Posts: 730
    I have experienced no problems getting air in the spare. What is your situation?
  • yftyft Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for offering the review. I also own a 04 Highlander V6 AWD and has been pretty happy about its performance so far. I just wanted to share a problem I've experienced recently. After I had my HL tire rotated, the low tire pressure light went on. The mechanic who rotated the tires told us that a lot of the Toyota's tire pressure sensor went bad. We brought the SUV in the dealer to have it reset. They've done it twice so far and the light came back on with in half an hours driving. The dealer had mentioned that they need to download something from the internet to reprogram the sensor but when we brought the HL in a different service guy said he never heard about the internet thing....sounds like the dealer has different stories about it. Anyone can shed some lights? Thanks!
  • bikeman3bikeman3 Member Posts: 85
    I also carry the same thing and its helped me out twice, got it at walmart I also use it to pump up my bicycle tires as well, my whole family carries one of these in there car at all times. Cost about twenty bucks
  • msfashunmsfashun Member Posts: 1
    What does the VSC message mean?
  • hmurphyhmurphy Member Posts: 278
    I would try resetting it yourself using the instructions in the owner's manual. I'm not sure why the dealer would need to reset it.

    The manual does state that you need about an hour of continuous driving above a certain speed (can't remember exactly what speed and I don't have the manual handy) to properly reset the system.

    When mine came on (because the tire pressure was actually low), I waited to reset it until I needed to take an hour's drive on the freeway.

    You might want to try a few more things yourself (following the manual) before downloading stuff from the Internet, etc.
  • junepugjunepug Member Posts: 161
    I am a very happy owner of a 2003 Highlander non-limited V6 with 25,000 trouble free miles. Sounds to me like you should look into the lemon law in your state. All of the people I know with Highlanders are not having any problems.

    Looks like you are right about it being a Monday car after saki.
  • stantonb1stantonb1 Member Posts: 51
    It is going back quite some time when I last posted regarding my 2001 Highlander and the constant problem with soft braking. I went crazy with Toyota, their dealers and factory service representatives. Toyota insisted that my Highlander was performing up to factory specifications. I did not agree then and I still feel that the vehicle has poor brakes. I wrote to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration and wanted to bring a class action suit against Toyota. I did have an independent mechanic drain the system and refill it with DOT 4 brake fluid and also had brake hose yielding corrected. I was told that the master cylinder being used in the Highlander is not adequate and should be larger, of course Toyota denies this. The Toyota dealers and the Toyota service network can care less about this brake problem and are arrogant. The vehicle now has 30,000 miles. I did replace the front brakes with Thermo-quiet premium semi-metallic asbestos free severe duty brake pads, with sound insulators. These were replaced even though the original Toyota pads were still good because the Toyota brakes were making noise and we couldn't stand it. The vehicle still requires increased brake pedal stroke when stopping.

    My solace is that I purchased a 2004 Mitsubishi Endeavor. Consumer Reports just ranked the Endeavor the most reliable SUV, with Highlander finishing third. The Endeavor's 1st year reliability has been outstanding according to Consumer Reports.
    We take the Endeavor back and forth from Phila., PA to NH a round trip of 800 miles and love it. The gas mileage is much better then we ever got with our Highlander and the Infinity sound system puts the JBL to shame. I hook up my iPod and am in heaven.
  • hmurphyhmurphy Member Posts: 278
    Sounds like you made the right choice to move on to something else.

    I had a similar problem with the brakes on my last car, and I didn't feel better until I traded it in.

    Best of luck with your new car!
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    " After I had my HL tire rotated, the low tire pressure light went on. The mechanic who rotated the tires told us that a lot of the Toyota's tire pressure sensor went bad. We brought the SUV in the dealer to have it reset. They've done it twice so far and the light came back on with in half an hours driving. The dealer had mentioned that they need to download something from the internet to reprogram the sensor but when we brought the HL in a different service guy said he never heard about the internet thing....sounds like the dealer has different stories about it. Anyone can shed some lights? "

    I had the same problem, see the fix in msg #2310.
  • yftyft Member Posts: 2
    Thanks hmurphy and mikefm58! I saw mikefm58's low tire pressure series yesterday after I posted my message. Read the manual last night and did the reset this morning with a close to an hour drive to work. So far the light hasn't come back on yet. Hope this is it!!

    In addition, I normalized the moon roof after reading some postings on the subject. It works beautifully (We always thought it's a design flaw to have to guess whether the moon roof is closed completely).

    Love this forum!!!
  • herzogtum71herzogtum71 Member Posts: 470
    Isn't this the light that comes on when the computer system senses slippage in your drive wheels? Or am I confusing it with something else?
  • commish1commish1 Member Posts: 30
    So I make my complaint with Toyota about my hesitation problem. The guy on the phone sounds puzzled about the problem but later admits to the problem. He tells me that my compliant was taken. I then get a call from my dealership in ref. to my call. They set me up an appointment with the service mgr. (We both know this is a waste of time but a necessary evil). I go in that day and take him for a test drive. I drive and he acknowledges that there is a problem. He then asks to drive the car and acknowledges it again. On the way back to the shop he tells me again that it is the "drive by wire technology" and that Toyota needs to come up with a fix. As we are getting out of the car I ask him if he can give me a receipt to show I was there on that day. He says no I will send you a copy of the letter that I am going to send Toyota. Well 3 weeks goes by and oddly enough no letter. I call him and he says "oh you didn't get the letter, I will send you another copy". Well I of course knew he never sent or wrote the letter but was going to be happy just to get it. I didn't call him out on it, just a mental note. A few days later my envelope arrives. I breath a sigh of relief and open it. He sends me a copy of the reciept that he said I didn't need because there was going to be a letter. This tells me that he definetly didn't write the letter. I'm sure he'll deny it but if you weren't writing a letter you would have just given me a reciept then and there like they do for all customers. Then I read the reciept and he has the nerve to say that he hooked it up to the machine and there was no problem. He also wrote that we could not replicate the problem. Now i'm pissed and he won't return my calls. I owned a Dodge all of my life and went to Toyota because of their reputation. Boy was I duped!
  • cmunizcmuniz Member Posts: 604
    I recommend that your write a letter to the dealership with a copy to Toyota USA with the info you provided in your post. You need to make them aware of the lies and the lack of service you have received. Not sure that it will solve any of your problems with hesitation, but at this point the dealer needs to know that you won't tolerate being lied to and that you are an unhappy first-time Toyota owner.
  • havokhavok Member Posts: 18
    Go for the HL. The 6th and 7th generation Accord V6s (>1998) have well-documented trany failure rates. This is a design flaw in all tranys connected to the V6(J30 series) engines found in the Accord, MDX, Odyssey, Pilot, CL, RL and TL. Engines are awesome but tranys are POS.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    The last info. I heard on the tranny issue you mentioned was that it was traced to a part within the tranny that was produced by a supplier. Honda extended the warranty on affected trannys to 7 yr/100K miles.
  • kadskads Member Posts: 27
    We've got an 04 v6 highlander with the transmission problem toyota is trying to ignore.

    Drove an 05 V6 Accord with 5 speed auto today and it really puts toyota to shame—in fact, absolutely no comparison. Imagine this--it actually accelerates WHEN you push the accelerator, not a few seconds later. Always downshifts smoothly and immediately to the right gear on demand also.

    If toyota really can't figure out how to fix their problem, they need to fire their management and just send their engineers out to copy Honda's far superior drive by wire/5 speed auto transmission.

    If you’re considering toyota vs Honda, Honda wins every time—by two or three seconds!
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    " If you’re considering toyota vs Honda, Honda wins every time "

    Owners of the previous generation Accord that had their transmission replaced will disagree with you. Honda extended the tranny warranty for affected vehicles to 7yr/100K miles. That should tell you something.
  • sams_6sams_6 Member Posts: 15
    How do I turn on the interior dome lights from the driver's seat? Both lights are set in 'door' position and both come on when I open the door.

    I assumed that (like in most cars) I could turn on these lights voluntarily by twisting the dashboard illumination stem all the way counter-clockwise until it hit the detent. However, that action does absolutely nothing.

    Is my HL broken - should the interior lights have come on when I did this? If not, how do I turn them on?

    One other question - if I leave an interior light on, or leave a door ajar, will the lights shut off automatically at some point or will they run until the battery is dead?
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