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Toyota Highlander Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • desertguydesertguy Member Posts: 730
    Sounds like a tire balance problem to me.
  • jessealanjessealan Member Posts: 11
    Our 06 highlander had the same smell strong and it is worn off now at 500 miles. I heard they put alot chemicals on for rust prevention and junk underneath car. Not sure but it is nice to hear others have the same thing.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    You have a LOT of reading to do.

    Seach Edmunds for "hesitation".
  • scoti1scoti1 Member Posts: 676
    There is a lot of info on this topic at Edmunds. The problem has been posted by owners in many of the Toyota and Lexus forums -- it goes back as far as the 2002 models (specifically Lexus ES300 complaints at that time) and has continued on with no sure fire remedy. Toyota has issued a TSB and several updates to the TSB that are supposed to fix the problem. Some people have reported that the fix works and others have had no improvement or an initial improvement with a return to the previous condition. You will also find posts by people who have gone through arbitration and lemon law buyback processes, a few with some success.

    It is not clear from your post what work specifically toyota performed -- if they have not performed the most recent TSB you may want to have that done. In most states, for lemon law buyback, you have to prove that you gave the manufacturer ample opportunity to fix the problem.

    I also think it would be a good idea if you post a complaint about this at www.nhtsa.gov, particularly if you feel this problem presents a safety hazard. They are the agency that can effect a recall if the problem is significant or prevalent (after 4 years of this problem going on, I wouldn't hold my breath for a recall, but it doesn't hurt to give them your complaint).

    There are some Edmunds forums actively discussing this problem. Right now, the "Transmission Problems with the Lexus ES300" "Transmission problems with Lexus ES-300 ?" # is getting the most action, but the new forum "Toyota-Lexus transaxle shift delay" <http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.efe9615 was set up specifically for discussing this problem in all of the Toyota-Lexus line.
  • jaegerloujaegerlou Member Posts: 6
    Just returned from picking up my 2004 HL AWD from dealership having a regular service plus checking the steering for looseness and clunking feeling. In checking it out the service tech informed me that the U-joints in the lower part of the steering column had gone bad. He said they had found this problem in some Camry's but this was the first HL with the problem. The HL has just turned 19,000 miles. Has ordered parts and will have to take back to be fixed.
  • bjduncan14bjduncan14 Member Posts: 1
    I&#146;m also having this problem. The slip indicator light comes on and the front end begins to shake and make clunking noises when I drive over 12 mph. This happened once before, but stopped. Now it happens all the time. I just did the 15k maintenance last week. Don&#146;t know if that&#146;s related. Towing it to the dealer tomorrow. Will advise.

    Brian
    2005 Toyota Highlander AWD
    18,605 miles
  • billranbillran Member Posts: 113
    Hi Frogg,

    I am sorry to hear about your problem. I wish you the very best luck in getting that resolved. The TSB has been reported as very successful by many people and I would highly recommend you try that route.

    Also, you should be aware that the majority of the posts about this issue are by people who don't actually own one of these cars and have never personally driven one to experience the hesitation first hand. They enjoy speculating about the issue and are mostly well intentioned, but it is all based on second hand information.

    And finally, there are also some posters with an obvious anti-Toyota agenda who may provide you information that is not exactly unbiased.

    There are two million cars on the road with the V6 5 speed drivetrain and those who actually report a problem are a very small minority. I am sorry to hear you are one of them but there is a good chance the TSB will solve your problem.


    With that in mind, I hope the TSB gives you the same good results that many have reported.

    Good Luck
  • froggfrogg Member Posts: 16
    The following work was performed on my HIghlander over a three month period: The computer was reset on two occasions. This seemed to help (at least the first time), but only temporary. They also replaced the valve body in the trans. The Tech says he drove the car after that "repair", and all was well. He's probably right. But it didn't last long. The service manager then asked me to try turning the overdrive off in city driving, and report whether it made any difference. It does. But he then told me he would be talking to the company, and he didn't know if they would allow him to do anything else. And they wouldn't. What seems remarkable: For the first 1000 miles, I was stunned at the handling and ease of driving in city conditions, given that it is AWD. Something electrical/mechanical has changed, and whatever it is, accounts for the problem.
  • scoti1scoti1 Member Posts: 676
    The computer reset was probably the TSB repair that Toyota is doing for the hesitation problem. You said that it improved after that, but only temporarily. Would you describe how it drives now as a "hesitation" after slowing down then trying to accelerate or more like slipping?
  • 05highlander0505highlander05 Member Posts: 89
    I have a 2005 highlander AWD with 9,500 miles on it. I live in cold WI weather and when I drive to work in the morning I get a very bad smell which comes out of the heating vents while I'm stopped at a red light. It smells like rotten eggs almost. It goes away after the 1st 10 min. of driving and is more apparent when I drive fast off the start. When I stop at a red light the rotten egg smell comes through the vents more it seems like.

    The 2nd smell is when I turn on the heating vents to blow on the windshield when the windshield is all steamy for example. This isn't s rotten egg smell, but it smells more like some tyoe of chemical. Since I always drive with my 3 yr old these smells are concering me alot.

    Can anyone hlp in letting me know what this could be and what I should do?

    Thanks
  • scoti1scoti1 Member Posts: 676
    I had the rotten egg problem with my Sequoia. Toyota issued a TSB for the catalytic converter to correct the problem. Seems to have worked -- no more rotten egg smell for me. Check with your dealer on this. You can also find listings of TSBs on www.alldata.com and www.nhtsa.gov.

    I have had no experience with teh second smell you mention.
  • hylynerhylyner Member Posts: 216
    Don't be too quick to jump all over Toyota on this one. Some folks don't look to deeply into these kinds of problems and end up making all kinds of accusations which aren't warranted.
    Here's some additional info about this rotten egg smell.
    I read recently where there's a Class Action Law Suit against Shell about a mistake they made in a huge batch of gasoline that was refined and marketed in a wide area of the northern US and in Canada. Among other things it caused a rotten egg smell from engine exhausts. It also damaged a whole bunch of emission control components in a great many instances. Might be worth a follow up. Look it up on the web. This issue has a lot more to do with fuel than it does with users. It bummed out a ton of owners and got them all steamed up against their automakers to issue TSBs and replace components, but it turns out it wasn't the automaker's fault after all.

    A few years ago there was another CA Suit against Shell in Quebec Canada for the same thing. Here's a short news article on that one:

    "A class action lawsuit against Shell was authorized for consumers in Québec on July 18, 2003.

    From March 2001 to March 2002, Shell included an additive to its regular-grade "Bronze" gasoline that damaged the fuel supply system of many vehicles. Shell estimated that between 100,000 and 200,000 consumers bought "Bronze" gas during that period; the exact number of adversely affected vehicles remains unknown, however the number of incidents reported is highly significant. The most commonly damaged vehicles are from the Toyota, Acura, Chrysler, Dodge, Ford, General Motors, Hyundai and Volvo brands.

    Update:

    In July 2004 the Superior Court of Quebec approved a settlement in the class action filed on behalf of consumers who purchased regular-grade Shell gasoline from early 2001 to early 2002. The settlement completed the voluntary reimbursement program undertaken earlier by Shell Canada. The closing date for claims in the Shell class action was November 5, 2004.
  • jrhflajrhfla Member Posts: 13
    Thanks to all who have responded to my SOS. The loose U-joint sounds like the culprit. I'll return my HL to my dealership for visit # 2 and I'll let you all know the results.
  • froggfrogg Member Posts: 16
    The problem is mainly noticed on accel., especially from a stop, as you accelerate through 2nd & 3rd. If things were right, the trans should "step" into the next gear. What happens: The trans comes out of the lower gear, the engine RPM moves noticeably higher, then the trans "slides" into the next gear. And, yes, the computer reset was the TSB fix.
  • landdriverlanddriver Member Posts: 607
    The rotten egg smell is typically caused by a bad catalytic converter.

    Perhaps the windshield defogger chemical smell is due to a coolant leak in the heater core? Open the coolant reserve tank in the engine compartment and see if the smell is the same.
  • hylynerhylyner Member Posts: 216
    The rotten egg smell is typically caused by a bad catalytic converter. WRONG!!
    I think upwards of 200,000 owners who had their emission control systems damaged because of bad gasoline (from Shell) might not agree with that claim. The Class Action suit is testimonial to their validity.
    Which came first; damaged catalytic converters, or bad fuel?
  • scoti1scoti1 Member Posts: 676
    Well, I had the rotten egg/sulfur smell, read about the Toyota TSB for replacement of the catalytic converter here on Edmunds, asked my dealer about it, they replaced the catalytic converter and, voila, no more rotten egg smell. No change in gas, I have never frequented Shell gas stations and live in the southeast. It is a free repair under the extended emissions warranty, so I suggest that anyone having the problem, get this done. A lot simpler than joining a class action lawsuit against Shell oil, isn't it? And it is what Toyota identified as the root of their specific problem.
  • scoti1scoti1 Member Posts: 676
    You may want to check out the "Toyota-Lexus transaxle shift delay" forum. Your problem is being discussed there without you even being present :)

    A couple of folks that have been following this for sometime (wwest, user777) may be able to give you some suggestions. wwest mentioned that he has read of some having the slipping problem after having the TSB performed and had the TSB reversed to eliminate the problem. In that circumstance, you would have to determine which is the least annoying or hazardous problem, the hesitation or the slipping, and just live with it.
  • hylynerhylyner Member Posts: 216
    For sure, everyone loves a freebie. I'm pleased what was good for you worked for you. All things considered, what's right for one isn't always right for everyone else. What I tried to say is there's more than one solution for rotten egg smell. It isn't an exclusively Toyota caused as you had implied. It isn't always only the cat converter either. Those who propose solutions should do more homework before pointing fingers. That's all.
  • jessealanjessealan Member Posts: 11
    The bad smell in my new highlander is like a burning rubber smell, not rotten egg. I have 600 miles. The dealer said it is just chemicals burning off. Its pretty annoying, but the dealer said to wait and it will go away. I posted earlier it was gone but I was mistaken.
  • dennisodenniso Member Posts: 1
    I noticed vibration on my front left tire when driving from a cold condition. After driving about 1/4 mile I no longer noticed it (after it warmed up?. Can anyone tell me what the possible problem is? bearings?
  • mdchachimdchachi Member Posts: 275
    If you parked it after going through snow or water, it could have been ice or snow on the wheel that caused an unbalanced condition until the snow or ice worked its way out. If it doesn't happen again, I wouldn't worry about it.
  • pilot130pilot130 Member Posts: 319
    A small point of information for you concerning catalytic converter damage because of fuel additives.
    It is a fact Scoti1, that fuel additives can and do cause premature damage to emission control components like CO2 sensors, catalytic converters etc.
    Not buying Shell fuel does not protect anyone, including you, from that potentiality either.
    All refiners use additives, for one thing.
    For another, there are only about 5 major corporations providing almost all refining needs for the entire North American continent.
    The fuel you buy where you are may not be branded as "Shell", but it stands a 50% chance of being refined by "Shell."
    Shell Oil is the largest of them, and supplies a great many independent retailers.
    Getting your catalytic converter replaced may indeed have been an unwarranted but generous gift to you, not an admission of culpability by any means.
    Consistently blaming the automaker for every issue that comes along isn't always the answer you frequently advocate Scoti1.
    But Hylyner is correct in observing that it's hard not to resist a free lunch when it's available for the asking.
    I've done it too, but I usually try to remember to say "Thanks" afterward.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    pilot130, in this case i think you're being a bit hard on scoti1.

    there is a forum dedicated to the 4 runner and the issue of sulfer smell. essentially toyota addressed an issue with the 4 runner related to the catalytic convertor. a number of owners were smelling the rotten egg smell. owners were not leaving the side nor back windows (the one in the back hatch) down, nor leaving the sunroof open.

    essentially, and I'm sure someone is going to correct me if I don't get this 100% correct: there was a combination of factors: the manufacturer placed the muffler exit in fairly close proximity to the cabin vent (under the bumper if i recall correctly), owners were using the recirculate air setting, after applying heavy acceleration with potentially a marginal catalytic convertor, using certain brands of gasoline, exhaust gases were being pulled into the cabin and detected by the owners.

    i'll leave it to readers to determine how the issue was addressed. suffice it to say, a vehicle can be running excessively rich and overwhelming a catalytic convertor, or the convertor itself can be marginal, or there may be a combination of other factors resulting in the owner detecting exhaust gases.
  • pilot130pilot130 Member Posts: 319
    Rest assured, it wasn't my intention to be hard, soft, or somewhere in between.
    We shouldn't presume to make judgemental comments about motives by others.
    That sort of thing is what got us all into trouble in other forums. You know full well the hows and whys about that.
    I qualified my piece right at the git go by saying it was a small point of information.
    No more, no less.
    All I did was set the record straight.
    My point is that it's not always the fault of manufacturers.
    If anything in these discussions it could be shown we are often too "Hard" on them.
    Perhaps because it's a convenient path of least resistance?
  • scoti1scoti1 Member Posts: 676
    user777,

    The way I see it:

    A guy had a problem with a sulfur smell in his car.

    I had a similar problem.

    Toyota fixed my problem (willingly and graciously) by replacing the catalytic converter.

    Their fix was based on a Technical Service Bulletin issued by Toyota to correct the problem of the sulfur/rotten egg smell in the exhaust.

    I am trying to help someone who had a similar problem by sharing my remedy. I have re-read my posts and I have in no manner jumped on Toyota about this. I think some people get their kicks from arguing for the sake of arguing. It is possible that some gasoline additive damaged the cat. converter and Toyota replaced it, but whatever they replaced it with is not suffering the same consequences of bad gas because I no longer have the smell. I am happy with my treatment by Toyota on this issue. I only mentioned Shell oil in my reply to Hylyner because that is who Hylyner said was responsible for the bad gas, giving example of a class action lawsuit. I am not sure what, if any, suggestions Pilot130 and Hylyner are giving to the owner suffering this problem. To sue gas companies? To live with it even though Toyota has come up with a solution? sheesh.
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    Before this devolves into another he said/he said, let me remind everyone once again to leave the personal comments/assessments at the door.

    Also, if you want to get into a specific discussion about catalytic converters and their issues, then please talk to Mr_Shiftright over in Maintenance & Repair.
  • pilot130pilot130 Member Posts: 319
    Sorry if my info caused you some angst Scoti1.
    No harm was intended.
    Your response to the guy was indeed helpful, my post was just meant for info, and I think that's all Hylyner was trying to say too.
    Too often we jump all over the first thing we see as a problem.
    I was just passing through and saw the bit about bad gasoline, and thought I'd add what I learned about it--actually some time ago.
    Your comment says it right: "It is possible that some gasoline additive damaged the cat converter and Toyota replaced it, but whatever they replaced it"
    Chill. We don't need animosity in these forums. It just attracts more of the same.
  • hylynerhylyner Member Posts: 216
    The good news is the guy who had the rotten egg smell in the first place doesn't have it anymore, so maybe we should drop the subject?
    Now his complaint is about a burning rubber smell. I suggest this might be due to various engine components burning off external lubricants, coatings, anti sieze compounds, etc.,which are present during manufacture and assembly. They should disappear over time.
    One issue we note on our car whenever the oil filter is replaced. It's located in an awkward spot, and if the technician isn't careful removing the old filter, oil dripped on the exhaused manifold will cook up and cause a burnt oil smell for a short time afterwards.
  • scoti1scoti1 Member Posts: 676
    The original poster, 05Highlander05, has not made a statement in this forum that he no longer has the rotten egg smell. As a matter of fact, he has not posted again since stating his original problem. Are you confusing him with another poster?

    BTW, when I had the smell, it was not obvious at all times. It seemed to come and go with some unpredictability. I noticed it most often when stopped in traffic. It has been at least a year since I had the TSB performed, and I have not had the sulfur smell since. :shades:
  • hylynerhylyner Member Posts: 216
    If this particular subject gets any more bandwidth, it's going to start smelling like rotten eggs too!!
    If this poor guy hasn't got enough advice by now, the only choices left to him might be divine intervention--or a gas mask--or all of the above!!
  • scoti1scoti1 Member Posts: 676
    Can't help it, gotta say it, you got caught with egg on your face!

    (pardon the pun :P )
  • hylynerhylyner Member Posts: 216
    Can't help it, gotta say it.
    Wasn't it the objective right from the opening bell?
    Bet you're crackin' up!!
    (pun intended!) ;)
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    FWIW decided to take a look for TSBs: Alldata has the TSBs for Excessive Sulfer Smell located here:
    http://www.alldata.com/tsb/Toyota/index-issue.html

    I see TSBs for '05 Sequoia, Tacoma, 4Runner, Matrix, Corolla, Avalon. Nothing on the Highlander. Question: do any of these vehicles have the same engine / catalytic convertor as the Highlander?
  • billranbillran Member Posts: 113
    I posted earlier that my Highlander gave off a strong smell when I first got it, but it wore off fairly quickly. When I was test driving the cars (I drove several), I noticed the smell and was told the same thing about there being a coating that burns off. They all had it to some extent. The first night I brought it home the smell was very strong. Although the strongest smell wore off by about 100 miles, there was still a trace of it for the first few weeks I owned the car. It did go away completely however. Not a big deal by any means.
  • rpell46rpell46 Member Posts: 15
    My '03 HL is approaching 30,000 and the O.E.M. tires are coming to the end of the line. :sick: :cry: They are Goodyears.

    I need some feed-back as to the best tires to replace these with?? About 75% of our driving is in the city, with the other 25% in the mountains of upstate NY and I'm looking for a good all around tire that will give me good traction without sacrificing gas mileage.
    Any ideas??

    Many thanks.
  • marcelgmarcelg Member Posts: 3
    Hi, I'm new to the forum and enjoyed reading some of the comments. I own a 2004 Highlander and also recently replaced the air filter with a K&N product based on claims that this will increase performance and reduce fuel consumption. So far, I really haven't noticed any change in performance and it's too tell about the mileage. In your case, have you noticed any significant changes?

    Thanks, Marcel
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Not likely to get any performance enhancement with a "drop in" type of air filter. If you installed cold air intake system or a ram intake system you might gain 3-10HP depending on your car's original setup (how efficient it was to begin with).

    If I were you I'd go back to OEM air filters and try a cold air intake system and freer-flowing muffler if you are looking for a few more HP.
  • desertguydesertguy Member Posts: 730
    Marcel: I feel the car is breathing better. It seems to reach higher rpms with ease. I know my HL performs better since I put in the K&N. As for mileage, I don't really know since I didn't check the mileage prior to adding the new filter. A free flowing muffler is another addition I usually make to my cars but for some reason, I just can't see the HL with one. I put two Magnaflows in my Lincoln LS so it can't be because I think it is too classy. :)
  • jhornjhorn Member Posts: 18
    rpell46

    Mine is also a '03 HL. The original tires were horrible. I changed them when they got ~15,000 miles. It has been two winters since I got the tires replaced with Yokohama Geolandar H/T-S G051. They are great tires so far. They handle well on snow, in water, and OK on ice. I live in Pittsburgh, PA which is known for hills and older roads. I am very pleased with the performance and low wear of these tires. They are going on 30,000 miles and still got 9/32 left.

    Considering the cost, they are very reasonable, $82 on tirerack.com (they were $77 per tire when I bought them 1.5 years ago).

    In term of the gas mileage on these tires, they are not bad either. I often drive between Pittsburgh and Toronto with an average between 22-26 miles per gallon depending on the wind (mine is a 2-wheel drive V6). In town, I got 16-17 miles per gallon but cannot blame it on the tires because of the hills and STOP SIGNS everywhere in Pittsburgh.

    Hope this is helpful.

    John
  • mckeownmckeown Member Posts: 165
    I'll second the Geo H/T S 051's. My wifes 04 Toyo's lasted 40K. Put these on back in October and they have been great. We live in Northern NJ and have Mountains and many 2 lane roads. These have been great.
    Looked at Tire Rack, but back in Sept when I ordered these, Discount Tire had them for $72 with a $50 rebate and free shipping. I have used Tire Rack since 1985, before the internet and ordered from ad's in Car & Driver, but with free shipping and the $50 back, they were $59.50 shipped back in Sept. Today Discount tire is $89 free shipping, and Tire Rack is $82 + $36 shipping(to NJ) ($91 per tire shipped).
    End of my $.02
  • marcelgmarcelg Member Posts: 3
    Thank you very much for your feedback. My main objective at this point is to improve gas mileage, especially with our ever escalating fuel costs. The free flowing muffler sounds like this could also help in this respect and I'll definitely investigate this further.

    I also added a "Tornado" air insert and since then the most I got is 32.1 mpg and my average is 27.5 (i.e. I do a lot of city driving vs. Hwy). Do you or anyone else in the forum here have any experience with the Tornado insert?

    I'm always looking for economical ways of improving mileage and would welcome any comments in this respect.

    Thanks again, Marcel
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I would respectfully suggest you ditch the K&N and the Tornado, which have been extensively tested and found of no measurable value (except the K&N will allow you to clean the filter rather than replace it as with OEM filters) and go back to either stock air filters or investigate a Cold Air Intake AND a free-flow exhaust system at the same time. The intake-engine-exhaust are like one big pipe. No sense messing with one end if you aren't going to do something to the other end.

    Also you can be sure not to use "defrost" mode excessively as this activates your AC---also put a few more pounds of air in your tires (just a few), check your wheel alignment and consider synthetic oil. All of these can give you some very modest increases in MPG.

    Another concern of mine about oil-type air filter is how they might place debris on the MAF sensor.
  • desertguydesertguy Member Posts: 730
    I would respectfully disagree with you regarding the K&N filter. There have been a myriad of tests that show the increase in HP and mileage. While not great, it is still an increase for a reasonable price. It will pay for itself by being the only air filter your car will ever need.

    As for the Tornado, it has been extensively tested as well and has been proved to do nothing. More distressing is that I now see the knowledgeable Sam Memmolo from Two Guys Garage hawking this thing. I have lost a lot of respect for him as he knows better. Anything for a buck huh!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Never saw a credible test yet to validate K&N claims, but if you see one, post it please! New info always welcome.

    Trick is to make sure that something ELSE wasn't also done to the vehicle prior to dyno testing. Even if you modify the air box that the K&N drops into, that can give you maybe 2 HP at very high rpm. Worth the trouble? Well it's your dime.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    The only valid test would be to remove any and all intake filters, run a dyno test, install the K&N, run a dyno test, install the OEM filter, etc.

    If there is any restriction to airflow at it will only be at WOT and max engine RPM, Maximum intake airflow. Just how often is your engine in that range of operation?

    I'd be willing to bet that the difference between no filter at all and the OEM filer is less that 10%. That means that the K&N can only increase HP by about 5% and then only at WOT and maximum engine RPM.

    So on the average the K&N is worthless for anything except the racing venue.
  • tsotsitsotsi Member Posts: 98
    I believe part of the confusion about the value of K&N filters to fuel economy comes from the different products K&N offers. They also sell intake systems that flow air more freely than the stock systems, which are designed to be quiet enough to be unobtrusive. Naturally, the K&M intake systems use K&N filters. It always amazes me that so many people believe that Toyota engineers (or car engineers in general) don't know how to make efficient intake and exhaust systems. They also know about the trade-offs.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    "....flow air more freely....."

    Except for something called an intake butterfly valve which is the major restriction 99.99% of the time. And then downstream of that you have the intake valves. Aren't those closed 75% of the time?

    And how many of you have ever heard the intake NOISE from an unrestricted intake path? Maybe pleasent during brief WOT throttle periods, especially for boy-racer personality types, but for most of us a quiet engine compartment is more, MUCH more, desireable.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    "....flow air more freely....."

    Except for something called an intake butterfly valve which is the major restriction 99.99% of the time. And then downstream of that you have the intake valves. Aren't those fully closed 75% of the time and only fully open for maybe 3-5% of the time?

    And how many of you have ever heard the intake NOISE from an unrestricted intake path? Maybe pleasant during brief WOT throttle periods, especially for boy-racer personality types, but for most of us a quiet engine compartment is more, MUCH more, desirable.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    let's get back to Highlanders....there are topics on K&N that we can participate in, so hopefully some of you will join in over there as well:

    K&N Filter Topic

    Now, back to Toyota!
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