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Comments
Second would be a clogged drain from the sunroof.
Phil
You're right about the windows not being left open. If that was the problem, you'd have water everywhere. Not just under the carpet.
The sound was related to speed at 25-60 MPH...kind of a "whu-whu-whu-whu" sound, equally felt under my feet on the floor board (since it is on the front in my case).
The problem was indeed a bad right front wheel bearing and bearing hub. It was fixed in 2 hours (and almost $500) at a local Toyota dealer. The mechanic tried to convince me that the left bearing also required replacement, since he claimed that most of the noise and vibration was coming from the left side. I authorized repairs to the right side only, and now the problem is gone!
Thanks,
Pawel
noise in the 1st day of purchase. When approaching slow speed to full stop, it makes the siren noise. Now is getting
down after 3000miles. Noticed in wet road and raining days the noise is gone, but come back in sunny day. I will it on service this Sat. The noise comes from front wheels.
Thanks for good information, I will address Toyota service tech the same.
Can you tell me what eventally happened with the 05 Highlander. I am experiencing that same problem right now. Toyota has told me that there is nothing wrong with it and that it is how the transmission is. (It is with the dealership right now)
Thanks!
I got my Highlander in Aug, and I believe is has the 5.1 CD.
How does the clock/NAV system, tell if I should be on DST and adjust when we go off it?
Is it on the NAV CD, or somewhere else?
Your "name" implies that you just might live in AZ, or nearby, or even travel to and fro, and so the system keeps you on AZ's non-daylight saving time.
Or maybe the 5.1 DVD has the wrong DST AZ state line.
'...When I already have my into the throttle (maybe 1/8??).."
Full light-throttle doesn't really fully describe the circumstances wherein a downshift delay seemingly occurs.
On FULL lift throttle followed quickly by a need to accelerate moderately or rapidly....and assuming a lower gear ratio at the onset:
The engine RPM will drop to idle as the engine/transaxle ECU commands an upshift.
Now suppose you quickly re-apply pressure to the gas pedal having been in the FULL lift-throttle "state" for just long enough for the upshift command to have been issued.
The engine being at idle results in a very low pumping rate of the fixed displacement ATF pump so once the currently in-process upshift is completed the "reserve" ATF pressure supply will have been exhausted.
So now the succeeding downshift command cannot be issued until enough time has expired for the ATF pump to have replenished ATF pressure, enough to fully and firmly seat the downshift clutches which are without doubt about to be asked to endure, sustain, a fairly high level of engine torque, once the DBW is allowed to open the throttle.
Obviously there are other sequences that might result in this same senario. Say cruising with a light, 1/8 gas pedal position, and an absolutely "normal" upshift has just begun. The DBW system drops the engine RPM to idle to more seemlessly and smoothly accomodate the upshift, but now you put your foot into it a large bit more.
Two shift sequences, an upshift followed quickly by a downshift, with the gas pedal lightly applied at "entry".
And keep in mind that with DBW the gas pedal position will not necessarily be indicative of the throttling opening. There is a bit of confusion about this for vehicles with CVT, Continuously Variable Transmissions, especially so with the wildly different, unique, CVT in many of the new hybrid drive vehicles.
With a CVT any position of the gas pedal that indicates a desire by the driver to accelerate might result in WOT engine operation. If the CVT can accomodate the "gear" ratios involved given the current roadspeed and engine RPM WOT will result in eliminating pumping losses due to throttle valve flow restrictions and thereby the most optimal FE. Keep in mind that WOT means climbing most rapidly to maximum engine RPM, not continuously operating there.
I have a v6 highlander(2004)....works great(only 6000 miles) but suddenly I noticed that the A/C button light is blinking whenever I turn on the A/C.What could be the problem my car is still under warranty, is this something serious.
Please advise ASAP.
Rregards
~dask
i purchased my highlander last year brand new and I currently have 17,000 miles on it. my front brakes are starting to squeal when they are wet, but they sound fine when they are dry. they squeal only if it has been not driven for a few hours, but when i am driving around town in stop and go traffic the brakes sound just fine. i drive to work and back and use the highlander for some sporadic around of town driving. do the brakes need to be changed or is this normal?
I live in IND. My question is really - what causes the time to change when daylight savings time changes? Is it in the Nav CD or somewhere else?
It happens through slow accelaration from a stop.
I drove a bunch of Highlanders and did not notice this issue. I did not drive my car before I bought it, as I decided on the car, and then just picked the color.
Have you had this issue?
Thanks
GAry
Check for a disconnected hose around the back of the air filter housing. See my previous message #3564. I've had two dealers leave this hose off on three separate occasions. Hope you didn't pay $700 because of a loose hose. Let us know how you make out.
My message was for fjd2006.
I own a 2002 Highlander V-6. I believe this mail applies to certain Toyota and Lexus models. For Highlander, 2001 and 2002 V-6 models.
It says possible sludge like build up in engine could cause
engine damage. My car only has 55k miles on it and so far I don't see any engine related problems.
Anyone own 2001-2002 Highlander V-6 with higher mileage have any engine related problems ?
I have a 2002 AWD Highlander Limited with 155,000 km on it. I heard a lot about this "sludge" issue with some V6 Toyota engines (I believe 1998-2002).
When I took the car from the dealer (it had 143,000 km on it back then) the engine sounded OK to me and really I didn't notice anything that I should worry about. But couple of weeks after, I noticed the oil level drops about 1L every 2,000-3,000 km. Then I started to hear some knocking from the engine, especially when it's cold. I got the car with no warranty (brilliant!!) and now I'm having nightmares thinking about the engine failing on me on the highway.
Moe
I read about similar complaints with V6 Highlanders. Do the V4 and V6 Highlanders use the SAME steering assembly?
I am also going to write to NHTSA. I believe if you dont write, you have no right to gripe...
I had the same thing on my 2005 at almost the same mileage. Take it in to the dealer and they will fix it.
Also, what did they do to fix?
Thanks
Exacty what edh says above. A slight clicking that can be felt in the steering wheel when turning at low speed. I could feel it also while going forward at very slow speed as well. They will probably have to order the part which will take a few days, and installation takes a couple hours.
I am typing this from the dealership. There is a Toyota TSB regarding this problem.
"Steering Intermediate Shaft Noise"
TSB Notice date July 20, 2006 covering Camry, Highlander (04 and 05 model years) and Solara.
Toyota has developed a new intermediate shaft to address the clunk, pop or knock type noise when turning the steering.
If your vehicle is out of warranty, you may have to pay for the repair. Good Luck!
Would you be able to offer an opinion on the steering wheel vibration that I have been writing about?
1500-2000 RPM in any gear except 5th, pronounced vibration in steering wheel.
My Corolla has a smoother ride right now.
Thanks!
I also noticed, the power steering in the 2006 made the wheel easier to drive and turn, less heavy feel than my 2007. I also noticed that the 2007 got up through the gears more easily, passing into 3000 RPMs in basic city driving. My 2007 never gets above 2400.
Any thoughts on these observations?
Thanks!