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Comments
Supposedly there is a means for the owner to reset the service reminder light such as hold down the tripometer button and turn the key to the on position and hold till light goes out, then start engine.
Anyone know if this is how to really reset the light?
Also, what is the oil capacity and recommended viscosity for my 3.3L engine (I don't have my manual here with me).
Thanks!
Walter
The following is from the 2007 manual which I believe will cover 2006.
Reminder Reset.
1. Turn the ignition key to the "LOCK" position with the odometer reading shown.
2. Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position while holding down the trip meter reset knob.
Hold down the knob for at least 5 seconds. The odometer indicates "000000" and the light goes off.
Oil capacity and viscosity for 3.3 V6.
With filter 5 qt. 5w-30.
Hope this helps.
Seems that getting the right cooland can be very confusing if not purchased at dealer. Pep Boys has only EG coolant listed and it is green, original in my car is red. Autozone recommennded some green coolant also, dont remember the name. Purchased Prestone All ( for all cars)at Schucks but on the label it has several other addedives besides ethylene glycol listed
If anyone did research on coolant please share info before I put the Prestone All and maybe regret it...thatnks
Never mix the red and green coolants.
Buy and use ONLY the correct coolant recommended for the vehicle. If you are not sure, check your owners manual or check at the dealer, or buy from the dealer.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
I just purchased a used 2004 Highlander. I know very little about this vehicle and where certain engine component parts are located. I will be purchasing a manual soon if I can find one. As idiotic as this sounds..I CAN'T find where the OIL FILTER is on this vehicle. Can someone please tell me where it is? I simply want to change the oil & filter. Also, a suggestion as to what type of oil wrench is needed to remove the filter would also be appreciated. I'm also wondering if I can use a type of oil other than the Toyota brand.
Thanks
"1. Turn the ignition key to the "LOCK" position with the odometer reading shown.
2. Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position while holding down the trip meter reset knob. "
My 2007 RAV4 has a similar "Maint Reqd" light. The instructions say:
1. Turn the ignition key to the "LOCK" position with the Trip Meter "A" reading shown.
2. Press and hold in the trip meter button while turning the ignition key to the "ON" position (not 'START').
This also sets the Trip "A" meter to 0000.0
Turning to ON, while holding in the button in the odometer position produced nothing (but frustration for me). The service techs have said the 07 RAV4 and Highlanders after '03 are the same.
Trivia Question: How much money have Toyota Service departments made since the Maint Reqd light was added to make people fear their Check Engine light was on and make an appointment?
Yes, the reset procedure is a pain. One time the service people didn't reset my light, or it didn't work. That's when I learned to do it myself -- to get the light to go off.
Bring back the days of the late 1970s Accords when you stuck the end of your ignition key into a slit in the dashboard to reset the oil change indicator!
1)Make sure ignition is off.
2)Turn the ignition to ON position (without starting the engine) while similtaneously pressing the trip meter reset button.
3)Keep your eye on the odometer. In 3 to 5 seconds you will see a serious of dashes _ _ _ that will disappear from left to right. Then for a second you'll see the odometer go to zero 0 and then the maintenance light will go off. It should come back on 5,000 miles later, so I'm told.
Hope that helps anyone out there trying to figure it out.
Want to thank you all for responding and for being so gracious to my post. BTW, Mikefm58, I know you were not trying to be mean and I really didn't take it that way. This is a wonderful forum and I plan to come around more often for some more tips!!
Did you get the above problem fix?
if so can you please tell me how and where did you get it fix.
you can email me ( dhaval60194@gmail.com )
thank you
My wife and I are new owners to a formally leased 2005
Toyota highlander 4 door limited 4x4
Ive had it 24hrs now and so far so good at 39k miles
clean and well kept
I now own it and while I am quite capable of doing the standard maintenance myself
We did purchase an extended warranty, My wife is questioning if this was a good
Idea at an additional 1400.00 for 3 years full coverage
Also I'm looking for a service and parts manual on CD for this vehicle
Your thoughts
thanks
He could but then that would deprive other members of valuable information and ultimately defeat the purpose of a Forum.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Phil
We have had 3 other Toyota models before the Hignlander & never experienced any problems like this. In fact, we had to have the lighter replaced under warranty. And it has since stopped working again.
post #9
if you're handy enough then you can save yourself major $$$
you can have an oil analysis done, It will tell you what concentration of different metals that are in the oil. This will help you determine if its bearings valves, rings,etc.
We do it all the time in the aircraft industry. There are many out there(GOOGLE) it should cost you about $50.00. Money well spent for a potential 5K repair.
Hope this helps
Uwe
I purchased my HH about April of '06 and it currently has 26,000 mile on it.
I will not bore you with the 10 page dicertaion of what all happened to my car but you are welcome to ask questions as you comment on this thread.
To put it in short form.
HH starts shaking. Owner has it towed to Toyota dealer. Dealer calls and says "Bad gas, not covered under warranty, $285.00" Owner says please fix it. Dealer runs & idles it for 2 days calls and says engine blown, steel parts fly out from under it. Calls in special tech for HH. 8 days later leaves message that cause was hydro lock not covered by warranty.
This looks bad for us. I must guess five to seven thousand for new engine.
On top of this they performed the 30,000 mile service prior to purgeing the gas.
Confused.
IMMHO both should be covered under warranty.
Unless you fueled from an old rusty can or with "dirty" gas.
I was notified two days before the news of the hydro lock that during the tear down they found evidence of a vermin chewing on a wire???
Could that cause a faulty injector reading or other wise.
If it was the cause of the misfire would that not be simple to pick up on?
If it were the wire and not the gas and they idle and drive it for 2 days is it my fault?
I'm talking to the manager of the dealer ship on Monday and need to know how to talk.
thanks again,
doug :confuse:
If it is the injector ground side that is switched on and off (most likely) then a bare section getting grounded could definitely result in a flooded cylinder.
Homeowners insurance...??
When they told me about the "chewed wire" they told me they didn't think it could blow an engine. I told them it was misfiring for 2 days on their lot and that it might very well contribute to the problem (subsequent damage).
It's a hybrid. We were in reverse in our driveway, after 30 seconds the engine kicked in and was shaking, at that point I shut it off so as not to damage a very expensive piece of machinery. Called tow truck. Had them note that physically the car was without blemish. Sent it over to the experts (roadside assistance gave me choice of 2 closer Toyota dealers). Trusted the experts prognosis (bad gas) then next day got the call that the engine blew while idling.
How do you make a hybrid idle?
If this happened while I travelled to safety along a highway I would be told that I caused the subsequent damage and would have to pay for it out of my own pocket. Who pays when we are careful and service department causes subsequent damage. It was at their suggestion that they would drive it around to get the bad gas out of it.
Not only is the engine blown but so is my mind. I'm no genius but had it not been for super duper warranty I would have looked into "bad gas" and wires (common causes of misfires).
Had they told me It'll cost 1400.00 to thoroughly diagnosis and maybe covered maybe not I would have paid it to avoid a blown engine.
Also, when I went to dealer to pick up rental car the service department was closed. We could, however, walk into lot and see our HH.
Sure enough oil & oil collection mats under the auto. Driver window down (Friday night). Dead battery (dome lights faint). No seat protection or floor protection provided. Grease prints on upholstry. 5 cats sitting under the vehicle. Wife & I put plastic and cardboard over window to keep dirt and cats out. If a rat chewed the wires I figure those cats have to eat something and have a good reason to hang out at the dealership.
Now wishing I had used different dealership.
doug
I came up with the answer at http://search.yahoo.com/search?p=toyota+highlander+do-it-yourself+maintenance&ei- =UTF-8&fr=moz2 which I did not know existed, which tells me something, I've had little or no maintenance outside routine preventative stuff over the last 98,000 miles. Did have the front rotors replaced at 65K by a Toyota dealer; not sure why they were warped, except maybe my better half had a panic stop that I not aware of!!
How do you idle a hybrid to remove "bad gas"? Dealer admits that is tricky.
I complained to service manager but he was unsympathetic. He told me "just notify your insurance company that is what insurance is for". But don't give them too many details about how it happened.
When I notified insurance company they were confused about were the engine blew up. Why at dealer two days later?
Here's a surprise.
Service manager tells me that with all the fancy equipment if they dont get a signal they must go to symptom diagnostic. This means they scratch their head and guess what might be wrong and try to fix it. If it doesn't work try something else. I am surprised that there is not a engine diagnostic tester out their that can tell when an injector is stuck open & shorted out. They admit "bad gas" was probably not the problem and may not charge me the $300.00 for that one.
My expected out of pocket on this one will be between $2,000 and $3,000.
My insurance company will have to pay an additional $11,000.
Anybody want a mint condition hybrid with a blown engine?
doug
I let myself get misled by post 4198 into thinking this was the hybrid thread.
Be that as it may....
Assuming the hybrid does not have a conventional mechanical thermostat but an electric pump/motor to circulate coolant using a "thermometer" as a control sensor the pump probably runs full time in order to not allow engine HOT spots.
The electric pump/sensor system is used so you can still have heat with the engine shut down.
And remember that even with the engine running at/near idle or even at a higher cruise level RPM the ICE need not consume as much fuel as the Mazda since the electrics might be/are contributing a large amount of the torque at a given RPM/load factor.
Lower fuel consumption = less engine block heat.
The conventional thermostat has a small bypass opening for this purpose.
I have often searched ebay salvage for a RX400h or HH that I could rebuild and convert the engine to miller cycle to see just how much the FE would improve.
In the mean time, if your 2004-2006 highlander is under 60K, please check for this leak problem. Beware
I mentioned this to my wife (her car) and she confirmed "don't ever leave the keys in the car, sometimes it'll lock itself".
Last night we get home and are unloading some things from the HL. A couple of doors were open. The car started the long beep, like you are trying to lock it with remote but a door is open. First time it's happened like this (and we've owned the car since Oct '02). I closed the doors and the long beep stopped. Opened the doors again to finish unloading and after a few minutes, got the long beep again. Finished unloading, closed the doors and went into the house. I specifically DID NOT lock the doors. I DID watch to see that the dome lights went out since I had gotten those "open door" long beeps. I've always been concerned about killing the battery because the dome lights didn't turn off (like if a door wasn't all the way closed. I'd rather they turn off when the door closes rather than waiting a minute or so, because by then we are out of sight of the car and wouldn't know if the dome light remained on all night.)
This morning all the doors were locked.
Anybody have any ideas of what is happening, or what has changed?
WWest? You are pretty familiar with the programming of these things. Did we inadvertently do something? Or is something in the computer hardware or software failing (we still have the extended warranty)?
Phil
TRANSMISSION & CLUTCH
TC008-07
Title:
TRANSMISSION FLUID OR GEAR OIL
LEAK FROM TRANSFER CASE VENT
Models:
'04 - '06 Highlander (AWD) & Sienna (AWD)
June 11, 2007
Introduction
Some 2004 - 2006 model year AWD (4WD) Highlander or Sienna vehicles may display a transmission fluid or gear oil leak from a vent on the right side of the transfer case. The leak is from the transfer RH (right-hand) bearing retainer No. 2 oil seal. Production improvements have been implemented to prevent this condition from occurring. Follow the repair procedure below to replace the RH bearing retainer No. 2 oil seal assembly.
Applicable Vehicles
2004 - 2006 model year Highlander (AWD) and Sienna (AWD) vehicles produced BEFORE the Production Change Effective VINs shown below.
2AZ-FE (4 cyl) JTEHD21A*60043493
3MA-FE (6 Cyl) JTE*P21A*60167377
Hope this helps.
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It COULD be a malfunctioning fob, I suppose. We have another and if this happens again I'll switch fobs.
STRANGE to say the least but if that's the only problem I have with this car, and so far it is, provided it's actually a problem and not just some programming that decided to change parameters, it only requires we don't ever leave the keys in the car. We shouldn't do that anyway.
Phil
Regards, BGood
NO. Never changed to fob battery. For another car, one even went through the wash cycle. Didn't give them a thought and waited 'til they ceased to function.
Gonna change the battery this week. Whatta good idea. Dang battery is 5 years old and has been used daily.
Phil
Just a thought!
The first time it happened (while I was just sitting in the car) my wife was 40 miles away tho.
Phil
Pete
I have subsequently contacted the corporate office by mail. I would suggest you do the same. If I do not hear anything back from them, I will post my message at every site I can possibly find to expose this rip-off.