Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Toyota Highlander Maintenance and Repair

17980828485105

Comments

  • forthillforthill Member Posts: 34
    I want to do the 10k service on my 2006 3.3L Highlander myself as it is only really the oil, oil filter, and tire rotation.
    Supposedly there is a means for the owner to reset the service reminder light such as hold down the tripometer button and turn the key to the on position and hold till light goes out, then start engine.

    Anyone know if this is how to really reset the light?
    Also, what is the oil capacity and recommended viscosity for my 3.3L engine (I don't have my manual here with me).

    Thanks!
    Walter
  • carbuff10carbuff10 Member Posts: 7
    More power to the do-it-yourselfers.
    The following is from the 2007 manual which I believe will cover 2006.

    Reminder Reset.

    1. Turn the ignition key to the "LOCK" position with the odometer reading shown.

    2. Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position while holding down the trip meter reset knob.

    Hold down the knob for at least 5 seconds. The odometer indicates "000000" and the light goes off.

    Oil capacity and viscosity for 3.3 V6.

    With filter 5 qt. 5w-30.

    Hope this helps.
  • byumgrbyumgr Member Posts: 14
    I have a 2005 Toyota Highlander Limited 4WD with 38,200 miles. I have kept up with the prescribed maintenance. My question is, when is it or how often is it recommended to have 4x4 wheel alignment done? It is running fine and is not pulling to anyone side but I just want to get an idea of proper preventive maintenance on this issue. Thanks, Mike.
  • ch1133ch1133 Member Posts: 43
    2003 Highlaner 4 cyl 2 WD

    Seems that getting the right cooland can be very confusing if not purchased at dealer. Pep Boys has only EG coolant listed and it is green, original in my car is red. Autozone recommennded some green coolant also, dont remember the name. Purchased Prestone All ( for all cars)at Schucks but on the label it has several other addedives besides ethylene glycol listed

    If anyone did research on coolant please share info before I put the Prestone All and maybe regret it...thatnks
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Please spell check your documents.

    Never mix the red and green coolants.

    Buy and use ONLY the correct coolant recommended for the vehicle. If you are not sure, check your owners manual or check at the dealer, or buy from the dealer.

    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • bobby11bobby11 Member Posts: 5
    Hello everyone,
    I just purchased a used 2004 Highlander. I know very little about this vehicle and where certain engine component parts are located. I will be purchasing a manual soon if I can find one. As idiotic as this sounds..I CAN'T find where the OIL FILTER is on this vehicle. Can someone please tell me where it is? I simply want to change the oil & filter. Also, a suggestion as to what type of oil wrench is needed to remove the filter would also be appreciated. I'm also wondering if I can use a type of oil other than the Toyota brand.

    Thanks
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    Dude, not trying to be mean here, but if you can't find the oil filter, don't know that any oil filter wrench will work, and question whether only "toyota" oil would work, then I wouldn't recommend doing your own oil changes.
  • desertguydesertguy Member Posts: 730
    You have to get under the HL to see the oil filter. Easy with the added hight of the SUV. Get the correct filter for your vehicle, either from Toyota Parts or auto parts store and match it up to the proper end cap wrench. You don't have to use Toyota oil. Just look at the oil filler cap for the proper grade and SAE rating.
  • bobby11bobby11 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the imput, but not to sound ungrateful to mikefm, but isn't this site devoted to answering any questions about maintenance, even the most basic ones? Anyway, I did locate the oil filter which by the way is on the engine block directly below the exhaust manifold. The only reason I couldnt find it is because the filter is NOT visible because of the exhaust manifold shield obstructs its view!! Besides that, this is my first SUV ownership. I have done plenty of oil changes on other cars that I've owned. Instead of being critical, next time try being more helpful, but thanks anyway from one "DUDE" to another!!
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    As I said, I wasn't trying to be mean, but it appears that you took it that way, so sorry about that. Good luck with your oil changes.
  • ajsystemsajsystems Member Posts: 6
    I notice the instructions posted say:
    "1. Turn the ignition key to the "LOCK" position with the odometer reading shown.
    2. Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position while holding down the trip meter reset knob. "

    My 2007 RAV4 has a similar "Maint Reqd" light. The instructions say:
    1. Turn the ignition key to the "LOCK" position with the Trip Meter "A" reading shown.
    2. Press and hold in the trip meter button while turning the ignition key to the "ON" position (not 'START').
    This also sets the Trip "A" meter to 0000.0

    Turning to ON, while holding in the button in the odometer position produced nothing (but frustration for me). The service techs have said the 07 RAV4 and Highlanders after '03 are the same.

    Trivia Question: How much money have Toyota Service departments made since the Maint Reqd light was added to make people fear their Check Engine light was on and make an appointment?
  • herzogtum71herzogtum71 Member Posts: 470
    I think they're making less money now because dealers around here used to insist that you needed an oil change every 3750 miles. Now people have lights that tell them about the 5000 mile interval. At least in my case I'm having less frequent oil changes, which is now what my service department advocates.

    Yes, the reset procedure is a pain. One time the service people didn't reset my light, or it didn't work. That's when I learned to do it myself -- to get the light to go off.

    Bring back the days of the late 1970s Accords when you stuck the end of your ignition key into a slit in the dashboard to reset the oil change indicator!
  • bobby11bobby11 Member Posts: 5
    I have changed the oil & filter which was quite simple. I discovered that if you remove the exhaust manifold shield (only 2 screws & 1 nut involved) it makes the job easier to get to the filter. As for the re setting of the "maintenance Light" on the dash of my highlander, the procedure is similar but a bit different than what you describe, but it is quite simple. All that you need do is:
    1)Make sure ignition is off.
    2)Turn the ignition to ON position (without starting the engine) while similtaneously pressing the trip meter reset button.
    3)Keep your eye on the odometer. In 3 to 5 seconds you will see a serious of dashes _ _ _ that will disappear from left to right. Then for a second you'll see the odometer go to zero 0 and then the maintenance light will go off. It should come back on 5,000 miles later, so I'm told.

    Hope that helps anyone out there trying to figure it out.

    Want to thank you all for responding and for being so gracious to my post. BTW, Mikefm58, I know you were not trying to be mean and I really didn't take it that way. This is a wonderful forum and I plan to come around more often for some more tips!!
  • bigdogman111bigdogman111 Member Posts: 3
    HI,

    Did you get the above problem fix?

    if so can you please tell me how and where did you get it fix.

    you can email me ( dhaval60194@gmail.com )

    thank you
  • keymastrkeymastr Member Posts: 3
    Hi
    My wife and I are new owners to a formally leased 2005
    Toyota highlander 4 door limited 4x4
    Ive had it 24hrs now and so far so good at 39k miles
    clean and well kept
    I now own it and while I am quite capable of doing the standard maintenance myself
    We did purchase an extended warranty, My wife is questioning if this was a good
    Idea at an additional 1400.00 for 3 years full coverage
    Also I'm looking for a service and parts manual on CD for this vehicle
    Your thoughts
    thanks :)
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    you can email me

    He could but then that would deprive other members of valuable information and ultimately defeat the purpose of a Forum. :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • phrosutphrosut Member Posts: 122
    I found my manuals on CD at eBay and I think they were $20 or less (bought in late 2002 so can't remember exactly).

    Phil
  • eat923eat923 Member Posts: 2
    We bought this vehicle, new, in 2004. It currently has 65,000 miles on it. However, as the weather started turning cooler, we began noticing that the temperature knob on the dashboard does not always work. We have to play with the knob by turning it back & forth and/or pushing in on it to get the temperature to change from cold to hot or hot to cold. Once adusted, it will stay at that tempurature. However, one cool morning, it took me 20 minutes to get the heat to finally run. Our mechanic said he couldn't fix it without replacing the whole kit which is about $600. Does anyone else have this problem? Or can you recommend something?
    We have had 3 other Toyota models before the Hignlander & never experienced any problems like this. In fact, we had to have the lighter replaced under warranty. And it has since stopped working again.
  • lucky_777lucky_777 Member Posts: 205
    look here http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/highlander/32217-heater-quit-sort-of/

    post #9

    if you're handy enough then you can save yourself major $$$
  • eat923eat923 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the recommendation.
  • choochoomanchoochooman Member Posts: 38
    just took my 2004 highlander limited (44 months old, 28,100 miles) to get an oil change, service guy came into the waiting room with this thing in his hand that had these dimples on it which had fluids new and old (I thought I was in one of those quicke oil change places), told me the power steering wasn't clear anymore looked like he was showing me vegtable oil, said I needed it flushed, I never heard of this before this is my first toyota.just sold my 1986 ford taurus v6 225,000 miles never had it done on that car and never had any power stearing problems. Has anyone had this service performed? I appreciate any suggestions thanks
  • phunterphunter Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Highlander V6 automatic with 97,000 km. I did not make it to my last oil change. 1,500 shy of 8000 km and need to add 3.3 liters of oil. I am being told that a liter every 1000 is normal.....not likely. Anyone else had similar problems? Toyota Canada may not cover. Dealer says it could cost $5000 for an engine job and there is no test to find problem without taking engine apart.
  • phunterphunter Member Posts: 2
    The two flip down cup holders on my drivers seat have broken. Dealer wants $450 to replace and they are not of good quality. I have had little luck in finding a console replacement product to go inbetween seats on the floor. Has anyone else had this problem or have a lead on a quality aftermarket product or web site? Thanks
  • keymastrkeymastr Member Posts: 3
    Yes there is a test
    you can have an oil analysis done, It will tell you what concentration of different metals that are in the oil. This will help you determine if its bearings valves, rings,etc.
    We do it all the time in the aircraft industry. There are many out there(GOOGLE) it should cost you about $50.00. Money well spent for a potential 5K repair.

    Hope this helps
    Uwe
  • doug28doug28 Member Posts: 30
    Greetings Toyota owners.

    I purchased my HH about April of '06 and it currently has 26,000 mile on it.

    I will not bore you with the 10 page dicertaion of what all happened to my car but you are welcome to ask questions as you comment on this thread.

    To put it in short form.

    HH starts shaking. Owner has it towed to Toyota dealer. Dealer calls and says "Bad gas, not covered under warranty, $285.00" Owner says please fix it. Dealer runs & idles it for 2 days calls and says engine blown, steel parts fly out from under it. Calls in special tech for HH. 8 days later leaves message that cause was hydro lock not covered by warranty.

    This looks bad for us. I must guess five to seven thousand for new engine.

    On top of this they performed the 30,000 mile service prior to purgeing the gas.

    Confused.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Hydro-lock is the result of too much liquid, uncompressible liquid, getting into the cylinder. Gasoline as the result of a continuously open injector or water as the result of a blown head gasket.

    IMMHO both should be covered under warranty.

    Unless you fueled from an old rusty can or with "dirty" gas.
  • doug28doug28 Member Posts: 30
    Nope. Always super-unleaded and with usual brand.

    I was notified two days before the news of the hydro lock that during the tear down they found evidence of a vermin chewing on a wire???

    Could that cause a faulty injector reading or other wise.

    If it was the cause of the misfire would that not be simple to pick up on?

    If it were the wire and not the gas and they idle and drive it for 2 days is it my fault?

    I'm talking to the manager of the dealer ship on Monday and need to know how to talk.

    thanks again,

    doug :confuse:
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    First, I would ask for the foundation for the "bad gas" statement.

    If it is the injector ground side that is switched on and off (most likely) then a bare section getting grounded could definitely result in a flooded cylinder.

    Homeowners insurance...??
  • doug28doug28 Member Posts: 30
    I'll pursue the bad gas foundation.

    When they told me about the "chewed wire" they told me they didn't think it could blow an engine. I told them it was misfiring for 2 days on their lot and that it might very well contribute to the problem (subsequent damage).

    It's a hybrid. We were in reverse in our driveway, after 30 seconds the engine kicked in and was shaking, at that point I shut it off so as not to damage a very expensive piece of machinery. Called tow truck. Had them note that physically the car was without blemish. Sent it over to the experts (roadside assistance gave me choice of 2 closer Toyota dealers). Trusted the experts prognosis (bad gas) then next day got the call that the engine blew while idling.

    How do you make a hybrid idle?

    If this happened while I travelled to safety along a highway I would be told that I caused the subsequent damage and would have to pay for it out of my own pocket. Who pays when we are careful and service department causes subsequent damage. It was at their suggestion that they would drive it around to get the bad gas out of it.

    Not only is the engine blown but so is my mind. I'm no genius but had it not been for super duper warranty I would have looked into "bad gas" and wires (common causes of misfires).

    Had they told me It'll cost 1400.00 to thoroughly diagnosis and maybe covered maybe not I would have paid it to avoid a blown engine.

    Also, when I went to dealer to pick up rental car the service department was closed. We could, however, walk into lot and see our HH.

    Sure enough oil & oil collection mats under the auto. Driver window down (Friday night). Dead battery (dome lights faint). No seat protection or floor protection provided. Grease prints on upholstry. 5 cats sitting under the vehicle. Wife & I put plastic and cardboard over window to keep dirt and cats out. If a rat chewed the wires I figure those cats have to eat something and have a good reason to hang out at the dealership.

    Now wishing I had used different dealership.

    doug
  • dmoyerdmoyer Member Posts: 27
    on my 2002, how does one open the center dome light to replace the bulb. the manual indicates the type of bulb, but does not describe how to replace the bulb in the do-it-yourself maintenance section.
  • dmoyerdmoyer Member Posts: 27
    with a web search of http://search.yahoo.com/search?p=toyota+highlander+do-it-yourself+maintenance&ei- =UTF-8&fr=moz2
    I came up with the answer at http://search.yahoo.com/search?p=toyota+highlander+do-it-yourself+maintenance&ei- =UTF-8&fr=moz2 which I did not know existed, which tells me something, I've had little or no maintenance outside routine preventative stuff over the last 98,000 miles. Did have the front rotors replaced at 65K by a Toyota dealer; not sure why they were warped, except maybe my better half had a panic stop that I not aware of!!
  • teresa72kcbteresa72kcb Member Posts: 3
    2001 Toyota Highlander - instrument panel lights for clock, AC, air intake won't light up. When heater-defogger is turned on, hot air blows out air conditioning vents, but no warm air comes out windshield vents. Makes for very dangerous driving conditions in cold, wet weather.
  • doug28doug28 Member Posts: 30
    Nightmare continues,

    How do you idle a hybrid to remove "bad gas"? Dealer admits that is tricky.

    I complained to service manager but he was unsympathetic. He told me "just notify your insurance company that is what insurance is for". But don't give them too many details about how it happened.

    When I notified insurance company they were confused about were the engine blew up. Why at dealer two days later?

    Here's a surprise.

    Service manager tells me that with all the fancy equipment if they dont get a signal they must go to symptom diagnostic. This means they scratch their head and guess what might be wrong and try to fix it. If it doesn't work try something else. I am surprised that there is not a engine diagnostic tester out their that can tell when an injector is stuck open & shorted out. They admit "bad gas" was probably not the problem and may not charge me the $300.00 for that one.

    My expected out of pocket on this one will be between $2,000 and $3,000.

    My insurance company will have to pay an additional $11,000.

    Anybody want a mint condition hybrid with a blown engine?

    doug
  • tomdtomd Member Posts: 87
    My '07 V6 has been very slow to warm up, especially in the cold weather since day one. I'm not talking really cold out. Just in the 30's. It literally takes twice as long to warm-up as my wife's 3.0L V6 Mazda Tribute. I'm going by how long it takes the temp guage to get up to normal. Does this seem right? I've had people tell me that if something was wrong with the thermostat, there would be a check engine light. I can't believe that the computer looks at how long it takes to warm up as long as it get up to normal operating temp. Can anyone speak to this? Would it be worth having Toyota change the thermostat anyway? I've noticed a 2 to 3 mpg drop in mileage in the cold weather and I think some of it may be due to the richer mixture until the engine warms up.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Oops, sorry...

    I let myself get misled by post 4198 into thinking this was the hybrid thread.

    Be that as it may....

    Assuming the hybrid does not have a conventional mechanical thermostat but an electric pump/motor to circulate coolant using a "thermometer" as a control sensor the pump probably runs full time in order to not allow engine HOT spots.

    The electric pump/sensor system is used so you can still have heat with the engine shut down.

    And remember that even with the engine running at/near idle or even at a higher cruise level RPM the ICE need not consume as much fuel as the Mazda since the electrics might be/are contributing a large amount of the torque at a given RPM/load factor.

    Lower fuel consumption = less engine block heat.

    The conventional thermostat has a small bypass opening for this purpose.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Where are you and how much would you be asking...??

    I have often searched ebay salvage for a RX400h or HH that I could rebuild and convert the engine to miller cycle to see just how much the FE would improve.
  • ft20ft20 Member Posts: 15
    I have a 2005 V6, AWD. I bought the car used with just 10000 miles on it. I have maintained it according to the owner's manual and have not abuse it in any shape or form. During an oil change at 62000 miles, the mechanic told me that there is a transmission fluid leak. I did some research on my own and found out that there is a TSB out for the transmission fluid leak on this model/vin. I can forward a copy of the TSB if anyone wishes to have it. If you read the bulletin, it becomes quite clear that the there is a faulty transmission seal that is prone to failure and Toyota has recently change the seal. They are essentially hoping that no one will have this problem and even if they do, it would be outside the warranty period, as in my case! To make the long story short, took the car back to the dealer, they looked at it and sure enough is the seal that is mentioned in the TSB that has failed. The dealer quoted me a price of $1300 to have it fixed. The repair would have been covered under the 60K power train warranty but since my car now has 63K, I am basically SOL. I just called Toyota last night to ask for their assistance but not getting my hopes up. I think it is unfair for a company to know about a problem and not stand behind their product. I will keep you posted on what I hear back from Toyota.

    In the mean time, if your 2004-2006 highlander is under 60K, please check for this leak problem. Beware
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    This "clockspring" is a ribbon of wires connecting a fixed electrical point(s) on one end to a rotating electrical contact(s) on the opposite end. The ribbon is wrapped around the stearing shaft several times to allow enough "play" in the moving end.
  • phrosutphrosut Member Posts: 122
    I was sitting in my '03 HL Ltd the other day waiting for a co-worker and listening to the radio. Expecting her to arrive shortly, I turned the key off but still just sat in the car waiting. After a few minutes, the car made a short beep and the doors locked.

    I mentioned this to my wife (her car) and she confirmed "don't ever leave the keys in the car, sometimes it'll lock itself".

    Last night we get home and are unloading some things from the HL. A couple of doors were open. The car started the long beep, like you are trying to lock it with remote but a door is open. First time it's happened like this (and we've owned the car since Oct '02). I closed the doors and the long beep stopped. Opened the doors again to finish unloading and after a few minutes, got the long beep again. Finished unloading, closed the doors and went into the house. I specifically DID NOT lock the doors. I DID watch to see that the dome lights went out since I had gotten those "open door" long beeps. I've always been concerned about killing the battery because the dome lights didn't turn off (like if a door wasn't all the way closed. I'd rather they turn off when the door closes rather than waiting a minute or so, because by then we are out of sight of the car and wouldn't know if the dome light remained on all night.)

    This morning all the doors were locked.

    Anybody have any ideas of what is happening, or what has changed?

    WWest? You are pretty familiar with the programming of these things. Did we inadvertently do something? Or is something in the computer hardware or software failing (we still have the extended warranty)?

    Phil
  • miatabluemiatablue Member Posts: 4
    This is interesting, I have a 04 6 cyl AWD with 64,000. How can I get the TSB? or find out what VIN no's are affected. Thanks
  • ft20ft20 Member Posts: 15
    Drivetrain - Fluid Leaks From Transfer Case Vent
    TRANSMISSION & CLUTCH
    TC008-07

    Title:
    TRANSMISSION FLUID OR GEAR OIL
    LEAK FROM TRANSFER CASE VENT

    Models:
    '04 - '06 Highlander (AWD) & Sienna (AWD)

    June 11, 2007
    Introduction
    Some 2004 - 2006 model year AWD (4WD) Highlander or Sienna vehicles may display a transmission fluid or gear oil leak from a vent on the right side of the transfer case. The leak is from the transfer RH (right-hand) bearing retainer No. 2 oil seal. Production improvements have been implemented to prevent this condition from occurring. Follow the repair procedure below to replace the RH bearing retainer No. 2 oil seal assembly.

    Applicable Vehicles
    2004 - 2006 model year Highlander (AWD) and Sienna (AWD) vehicles produced BEFORE the Production Change Effective VINs shown below.

    2AZ-FE (4 cyl) JTEHD21A*60043493
    3MA-FE (6 Cyl) JTE*P21A*60167377

    Hope this helps.
    ">
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Other than the possibility that a key button got pressed in your pocket (has happened to me.) I don't have any ideas.
  • phrosutphrosut Member Posts: 122
    I know that the key on the fob WASN'T depressed on at least two of the three instances I just had happen because the keys were in my hand and not my pocket and I wasn't pushing any buttons. That the fob was accidentally pushed while in my pocket was the first guess I had that evening at home, so I pulled it out of my pocket and then a few minutes later got the same beep. Then locked sometime after that when the keys were hanging in the house.

    It COULD be a malfunctioning fob, I suppose. We have another and if this happens again I'll switch fobs.

    STRANGE to say the least but if that's the only problem I have with this car, and so far it is, provided it's actually a problem and not just some programming that decided to change parameters, it only requires we don't ever leave the keys in the car. We shouldn't do that anyway.

    Phil
  • webgoodwebgood Member Posts: 95
    I have no idea if this affects it or would have anything to do with it...ever replaced the battery(ies) in the key fob(s)? Do they need to be? Only reason I thought of it is I've discovered some cordless phone handsets, when the battery's crapping out, can start randomly 911.
    Regards, BGood
  • phrosutphrosut Member Posts: 122
    thanks, webgood!

    NO. Never changed to fob battery. For another car, one even went through the wash cycle. Didn't give them a thought and waited 'til they ceased to function.

    Gonna change the battery this week. Whatta good idea. Dang battery is 5 years old and has been used daily.

    Phil
  • toyseekertoyseeker Member Posts: 81
    Maybe your keyfob wasn't depressed, but was your wife's? In her purse? This happened to me once.. was driving down a highway and the (panic) alarm kept going off (very startling to say the least)... had to pull off and figure it out.. turned out to be the keyfob in her purse.... :)

    Just a thought!
  • phrosutphrosut Member Posts: 122
    Thanks for the tip toyseeker.

    The first time it happened (while I was just sitting in the car) my wife was 40 miles away tho.

    Phil
  • peilinxpeilinx Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 V6 model and I was told yesterday there is a leak similar to yours, and I was told to cost $1200 to fix it. I got 70500 miles.

    Pete
  • ft20ft20 Member Posts: 15
    I'm sure that there are a lot of other ppl out there with the same problem. I contacted the customer assistance number. They reportedly "investigated" the issue and determined that they will not help me fix the problem. The reason that was given to me was that I did not have all the service done at the dealer. This is the same dealer (Ourisman Chantilly Toyota, Chantilly VA) that one occasion did not properly tighten the oil filter during an oil change, causing 1/2 of the engine oil to leak out of the car in a span of 2 days!

    I have subsequently contacted the corporate office by mail. I would suggest you do the same. If I do not hear anything back from them, I will post my message at every site I can possibly find to expose this rip-off.
Sign In or Register to comment.