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Toyota Highlander Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • nevadageonevadageo Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 HL. My temperature control "brain" in the dashboard went out (common problem in 2001 HL). Dealer estimate to replace the brain was $800. I found the part online from a Toyota dealer in Virginia for $400 and replaced it myself. Another possibility is servo switch at hot air/cold air door beneath dashboard in center of vehicle. May not be responding to hot/cold dial in temperature contol cluster in dashboard.

    Alan
  • jemmich1jemmich1 Member Posts: 5
    I would like to remove the firewall side V6 spark plugs. It looks as though the intake manifold and throttle assembly must be removed first unless there is a way to tip the engine forward or another approach. Can anyone give a clue?
  • tsotsitsotsi Member Posts: 98
    I am grateful for those of you who wrote in, describing the potential problem with the Highlander heat control. Today, the heat control knob started to feel loose so I removed the knob and tightened the nut holding the rheostat before the wires got stressed and broke. I also put a drop of Loctite on the threads, hoping it would keep the nut from working loose again.

    I would like to send a strong message to Toyota that this kind of lousy design and quality control is going to lose them customers. My Highlander is only three years old, with about 27,000 miles -- in other words, just past guarantee. If it hadn't been for this forum I might not have realized how serious a problem the loose knob could turn in to.

    For those of you who might have the same problem: if your heat control knob suddenly starts feeling shaky, just pull the plastic knob straight off. You will see the flat nut right behind the knob. I wouldn't tighten it too much for fear of breaking something . . . that is why I carefully put a little Loctite on the threads. The nut takes an 11 mm wrench, by the way.

    Thanks again for this forum and all the useful information on it.
  • phrosutphrosut Member Posts: 122
    This "auto-locking" feature was happening more frequently since my original post, typically every 2 or 3 days.

    I changed the fob battery per one answer to my original post. It's been almost 2 weeks and the car hasn't "auto-locked" since the battery change.

    I'll post if it comes back but it's appearing that a weak fob battery was the cause. Thanks all.

    Phil
  • desertfox1desertfox1 Member Posts: 80
    Has anyone purchased an updated DVD? Do you have to use Toyota's, or can you get them from 3rd party suppliers like Garmin, Tom-Tom or such?

    Thanks
  • brutus_1brutus_1 Member Posts: 10
    Hello, I have a 2004 2WD 3.3 Highlander with 80K miles on it. Have been very happy, still have original brakes, put new tires on at 72K miles. No problems...until 2 weeks ago as going through a drive through and made a sharp turn got a whinning noise. Fisrt thought low PS fluid but checked and no. Also didn't change pitch with stop to stop steering wheel turn. 2 days later, battery light came on. and car wouldn't start. OK, time for a new battery. Installed new battery, checked for charging, only 12.2volts. Whining still there...suspect Alternator too. Ordered from Toyota,($330) installed (me), everything fine for almost 2 weeks. Yesterday on expressway all idiot lights lit up. Drove to destination about 1 hour. Checked charging, everything looked good. During local driving, idiot lights lites were normal (off) but when I got on the expressway they again came back on. Suspect internal regulator not doing its job and overcharging system? I saw this once before in Nov 2003 at 42K miles, but problem went away.
    Any alternator/regulator input would be helpful. BTW the bearing in the old Alternator felt "gritty" when spun, was probably the reason the battery took a crap. :confuse:
  • neldredneldred Member Posts: 1
    My Toyota just started intermitting blowing cold air when my heat is on. Sometimes it will blow hot for sometime and then just go cold and then warm back up again? Any Ideas what the problem could be.
  • meg3meg3 Member Posts: 3
    Hi There,
    I have an 04 Highlander....Underneath the front there is a plastic piece that covers the undercarriage of the car. At some point, I went up onto something and the plastic cracked. It is now interfering with my tire when I take a hard turn. I suppose I should take it to the dealership , but expect to be charged a mint...ideas???thanks
  • lucky_777lucky_777 Member Posts: 205
    look here http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/highlander/32217-heater-quit-sort-of/
  • tsotsitsotsi Member Posts: 98
    I see a posting directing you to tundra solutions. Good idea, but I would guess your heat control rheostat was loose for a long time before the wires fatigued (if that is actually what happened). I strongly recommend that all Highlander owners check the heat control to see if it feels as solidly mounted as the other two switches. If it seems really loose, pull off the knob -- it just pulls straight off -- and tighten the nut underneath.

    The whole trouble and expense of repairing the problem can be avoided by just tightening that nut, a 5 minute job. Even after reading the postings on this forum I was surprised to find mine was loose. Believe me -- it is worth checking.
  • brutus_1brutus_1 Member Posts: 10
    Well, Things have worsened...and then got better.
    About 2 weeks after replacing Alternator and Battery, All my idiot lights would come on when I got on the expressway. All dash lights (MIL malfunction indicator lights) would come on, VSC,tire press, anti skid, brakes lites). But during around town driving, lights would go off. Next day, went to dinner, lites came on during expressway ride. After dinner was driving in parking lot and lites came on, and VSC started locking up brakes, and limiting power to engine?? Pulled ABS fuse, and drove home, took to dealer next day. They diagnosed as a bad stereing wheel position switch ($340 part $300 labor=$700) Talked and confirmed with mechanic, he said definetly is the problem. Had it R&R'd, next day, lights came on again. Took mechanic for drive and showed him problem. He used scan tool, found small metal piece in right wheel ABS pick-up. Problem resolved. 2 weeks no issue. They claim steering position switch was bad. I think I bought a $340 part that I didn't need. Thought I'd share my experience...Still pretty happy with vehicle, only $1000 total in repairs in 80K miles...not bad. Note when ECM gets a fault, all MIL lites come on... :confuse:
  • ft20ft20 Member Posts: 15
    Just wanted to give an update on my dealings with Toyota regarding this Transmission Leak. After being denied any assistance by the reps from the customer assistance center, I wrote a letter to Jim Lentz's (Toyota North America CEO) office. It's funny bcs I also forwarded the letter to the customer assistance center. They first called me to tell me that there is no way to appeal the decision. Than within 2 hours of that, I received a second call from the corporate office promising me to investigate the issue and later informing that they would cover 50% of the cost of repair. I thought it was still unfair that I had to pay $600 for a faulty part that Toyota had installed in the care in the first place. However, under the circumstances, that was the best I could do. I have had the repair work done by the dealer and sent in the receipts for reimbursement. Then they called me to tell me that they would not cover the cost of wheel alignment or shop supplies that are on the invoice. Essentially, they are paying about 40% of the expenses! So for anyone else dealing with this problem, this may offer some help!

    Also, when I dropped off the car at the dealer, I asked them to look into the heating issue that a lot of you here have been mentioning. I have had this problem too and after reading the posts here noticed that the nut under the temp control knob was loose. I did not tighten it, wanted to see what the dealer would do. No surprise, they told me that the whole heating module would need to be replace! I have since then spent 2 minutes to tighten the nut and the heater is working just fine.

    This is my second Toyota, and this whole experience has left a bitter taste in my mouth. I would have to think twice before buying Toyota again.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    That sounds as if you are low on coolant to me....that would be my first thing to check.
  • lucky_777lucky_777 Member Posts: 205
    Looks like $560 I paid for extended Toyota warranty on my 08HL is much better investment then I thought.
  • toyotagaltoyotagal Member Posts: 215
    I have had my 07 Highlander 9 months now and not a single problem. It in fact is the best vehicle I have ever owned. I elected to not get the Extended Warranty, at least until the warranty that comes with the HL is about to expire. And only then "possibly" if I have had some trouble.
  • jemmich1jemmich1 Member Posts: 5
    Someone out there must have removed the spark plugs from the firewall side of the V6 engine.
    I would like to know how its done
  • stoneybrokestoneybroke Member Posts: 83
    I have an 06 Highlander limited with all the toys. The radio has the in-glass diversity antennae and is an absolute POS. Will a fender mounted unit improve radio performance?
  • tsotsitsotsi Member Posts: 98
    I sympathize with the trouble you are having with your Toyota dealer. It seems to me that in trying to overtake GM in sales, Toyota is making many of the same mistakes that are causing GM to lose out in the marketplace. They ignore individual owners, apparently forgetting that we are the ones, when added together, that give them their sales success.

    On the heat control issue, I hope your problem is solved but would like to point out that most of the postings have indicated that this is a two-part problem.

    First: The nut works loose and the heat control rheostat slops around on its mounting. This alone is not enough to immediately cause a problem, but if left loose it puts stress on the wire connections and they eventually break. That is when the heat control becomes intermittent. It seems that in your case, just tightening the nut moved the control back into contact with the wires. I hope they continue to make contact.

    Second: If the wires are no longer making proper contact, they can easily be repaired, as described in Tundrasolutions. It should not be necessary to replace the entire panel. It is really a DIY job, but if you lack basic mechanical skills, it wouldn't hurt to get some help. Once you see how the bezel pops off and the screws are exposed it is pretty straightforward if you have a screw driver and soldering iron.

    In my opinion this problem should have been solved by Toyota a long time ago. At least dealers should be checking the heat control during routine maintenance. I hate it when companies look at me as a "profit center" and forget that I can easily take my business elsewhere. A really good dealer -- are there any of those left? -- would follow forums like this one and learn from them. The idea that thousands of Highlander customers know about annoying problems that the dealers and mechanics are oblivious to is astounding.

    Is there at least one dealer out there who will respond and tell us why you are ignoring these problems?
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Would you be so kind as to let us know when/if you find a dealer who doesn't consider you a "profit center", I've been looking for one of those for a long time now.
  • phrosutphrosut Member Posts: 122
    I sure agree with you about the in-glass antenna! Our '01 is the same. We took a trip in it with people from the area we were travelling and they were suggesting particular radio stations and we couldn't pull them in. They drive that rural road daily and had no problems getting good reception in their Suburu Outback.

    Be sure and post your results here if you try the fender mount.

    Phil
  • tsotsitsotsi Member Posts: 98
    It occurred to me that none of the postings on this forum say anything about how to remove the climate control panel. Trying to figure out how to remove items when you can't see any screws or bolts always drives me crazy. On the Highlander you have to remove the climate control panel bezel (or surround) to see the bolts that hold it in place. The best instructions I have seen on removing the bezel are on this website:

    http://www.tss-radio.com/images/TY-75-01.pdf
  • ocg35manocg35man Member Posts: 52
    I own a 2002 Highlander V6 4x2.
    A minor but annoying problem started recently. When turning a steering wheel, especially when a vehicle is moving slowly, I hear this
    very annoying squeaking noise from steering wheel area. It's hard to
    describe the actual sound, but to me it's very annoying!

    I've searched Highlander Maintenance & Repair Archive and found a
    solution! And it's very easy!

    Go to any auto parts store and buy a SILICONE SPRAY. I was able to
    find one for less than $4.00 for 12oz. can. If you look under dash near
    steering wheel is located, you will find a shaft joining to the floor of a
    vehicle. All you have to do is spray around the shaft and rubber area,
    where shaft is joining the floor. You might need a flashlight for a easier
    view. This chemical-smell is kind of strong, by the way.

    There are thousands of these Highlanders out there and I am sure this
    problem must have occured to many of them.

    Now, my wife is very happy and annoying noise is gone! :)
  • keymastrkeymastr Member Posts: 3
    That squeaking noise is the front brake pad indicator telling you your brake pads need to be replaced :surprise:
  • ocg35manocg35man Member Posts: 52
    keymastr,

    I am not a mechanic, but I know what brake pad indicator sounds like,
    when brake pads need to be replaced.

    This noise I described is From Inside The Vehicle-Around Steering
    Wheel. Trust me.

    Thanks for trying to help. :)
  • jmackint123jmackint123 Member Posts: 1
    ocq35man,
    Thanks for the idea. I know EXACTLY what noise you are talking about. Drives me nuts! I will give it a shot. I alredy have the spray...
  • byumgrbyumgr Member Posts: 14
    On the 2005 Highlander Limited, is there a serviceable differential and if so, how often should it be serviced?
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    Had the oil changed in my 2004 4WD V6 yesterday. When I paid, the service writer noted that the tranny fluid is starting to discolor and suggested I have it replaced at my next oil change. The vehicle is 4 years old but only had 31,000 miles on it. It did see a lot of short trips in the years my wife was working less than 3 miles from home.

    I believe the owner's manual service interval for transmission service is 100,000 miles. I would have probably done it at 50K. Could the fluid need replacing at 30K miles or is this just the typical service department trying to drum up business?
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    The owner's manual should tell you.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    The owner's manual should tell you.

    That may be inconvenient if one does not actually possess an owner's manual. Perhaps you could tell us what yours' says about it? :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Actually, it could be either. If in fact, the fluid is changing color substantially, there could be an internal problem that needs looking at. If the fluid smells burned, you definitely have a problem, the fluid should be changed, but you may have early failure in your future. If in fact, the service interval is 100,000 on it, then the only way you should need to service it sooner, is if it's under severe operating conditions, stop- & go driving, excessive shifting due to mountainous driving daily, or towing.

    Now, the service advisor could be trying to drum up business - certainly not unheard of, and the fluid will naturally change color as it gets dirty anyway. There is the possibility though, that he's got your best interests at heart, and is trying to prevent early failure. Get another opinion, or service it. It NEVER hurts to change oil or fluids.
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    "That may be inconvenient if one does not actually possess an owner's manual. Perhaps you could tell us what yours' says about it?"

    The manual/maintenance schedule is also available online at Toyota.com. The only thing it says about differential oil is to inspect it every 12,000 miles or so. There is no scheduled change in the first 100,000 miles. I didn't go beyond that. :P
  • toyotagaltoyotagal Member Posts: 215
    I looked at my Maintenance Manual for my 07 Highlander. And this correct. There is no maintenance other than a "check" for the first 100K. In fact I coud not see any scheduled maintenance for changing the differential oil ever. Unless you had a tow vehicle or drove in sand etc.
  • tsotsitsotsi Member Posts: 98
    Actually, the owner's manual doesn't tell you. Toyota has, for some unfathomable reason, not put maintenance intervals in the Highlander owner's manual. They provided a separate book called a "Scheduled Maintenance Guide." And it is not specific for Highlanders -- it is for "SUVs and Trucks."

    Considering the number of Highlanders Toyota sells, I don't think it is asking too much for a vehicle-specific maintenance guide. Much as I like my Highlander I have to say that Honda does (or at least used to do) a much better job on manuals. A Honda station wagon I bought in '94 was specific not only for the Accord, but for the wagon.

    To me, this is just another example of the poor management that seems to pervade most manufacturers. Now that low-volume publishing is so easy and cheap -- supermarkets produce store-specific advertising in color -- it is had to understand why car makers, along with appliance manufacturers, refuse to provide their customers with item-specific manuals.
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    The maintenance guide is pretty clear to me. The schedule applies to all SUVs/trucks and exceptions for specific vehicles are noted at each mileage interval plus for severe service or towing applications.

    There's a reason Toyota is the most profitable automaker and it's because they economize where it makes sense. A "one size fits all" maintenance schedule is one place it does.
  • yohohikryohohikr Member Posts: 4
    just got a 2005 w/ 29K miles. Anyone know if there is a requirement for any scheduled maintenance to keep warranty in force. no manuals came with it, but dealer said it was under warrnty for 60k miles. tnx
  • tsotsitsotsi Member Posts: 98
    Toyota has a good website that gives the maintenance schedule for Highlanders. It is: http://smg.toyotapartsandservice.com/guides.php?v=8&y=2005&int_id=6
  • tsotsitsotsi Member Posts: 98
    I just happened to run across this website:
    http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_change_spark_plugs_on_a_2002_highlander
  • ohmygoshohmygosh Member Posts: 66
    I have a 2004 Toyota Highlander AWD. At 44,000 miles I had some kind of electrical problem where the tire gauge light and SRL light came on, and I could not use the automatic door lock switch. I took it to the dealership and there was some kind of short in the wires. After much debate they fixed the problem. I had the extended warranty, and there was no charge. I am now at 50,000 miles and the problem is back. The service department is telling me that water is getting in at a junction box on the left panel and there is evidence of corrosion.They keep asking me if the car was in a flood or accident. I assured them it was not. They were able to connect and reconnect the wires and eliminate the problem for now. They also applied a sealer. They told me if it happens again they would replace the junction box under warranty. Does anyone else have this problem? Any comments ?
  • lgjavalgjava Member Posts: 48
    They asked YOU if the car was in a flood?! That's a hot one! Well, anyway they repaired it. I can't understand how you'd get corrosion, but still the gaskets aren't all that great on the windows and such. No electrical stuff here, but then how many colors is my car? Or better still, how many cars is my car??
  • kittycat2kittycat2 Member Posts: 9
    I have a 08 HL Limited 4WD with only 200 miles on it so far. I have been getting 14-15 MPG as well. I am hoping that the mileage will go up as well. I got rid of a gorgeous Lexus GX 470 that guzzled gas, but this vehicle doesn't seen to do that much better so far.
  • lucky_777lucky_777 Member Posts: 205
    Could be number of reasons: winter blend of gas, too few miles on the car, driving in stop and go city traffic... Try to be easy on the gas pedal, no jack rabbit starts and abrupt stops.
  • dchouston1dchouston1 Member Posts: 9
    Your engine still has to break in. Expect 18-20 city. 20-23 highway.
    Thats what my 2002 Limited with the 6 cylinder gets.
  • ronnronn Member Posts: 398
    My 08 Limited 4wd has close to 600 miles, and is getting around 17 MPG in city driving, with start and stop alot. I am pleased as it is up in MPG from last month, so yours should improve as well. As in another post, go easy on the gas pedal, with no abrupt stops. After the break in period, it should do better.
    Enjoy !
  • jwrotenjwroten Member Posts: 1
    My problem started with the right rear window going down on it's own. Took it to the local dealership and they told me it was a Master Control Relay and ordered a new one ($600). Installed the new relay, problem was resolve for one week and the window started going down on its own. I found out that if I kept the windows locked this would not occur. Took it back to the dealership and they replaced the relay.
    Fixed the problem for about a month. Now the flashers will activate on their own and the remote lock will not work. Removed the flasher fuse, stopped the flasher and remote lock will work. Put the fuse back in and after about 10 minutes the flashers activate on their own and remote lock will not work.

    Anyone else ever have this problem?
  • bikeman3bikeman3 Member Posts: 85
    03 Highlander V6 what would be a reasonable price for changing the belt parts and labor? Any help would be appreciated :)
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    I bought an 04 Highlander Limited V6 on Feb 09 2008, and it's a great car so far! I got a great deal, partly because it had a lot of highway miles on it (101,020 miles), and the timing belt has not been changed yet. No problem on the timing belt, a bought a belt for $30 and I can put it in myself. The carfax reported 2 previous owners, no wrecks, and no issues. The car is very neat and clean, it has new tires, mag wheels, loaded, and everything works. There were a few minor scratches on the bumper covers that I touched up with some touch up paint, looks great now. I negotiated a great deal, only $11,367.92 plus $732.08 tax plus $200.00 tag and transfer fee, for a total of only $12,300.00 out the door!
    My gas milage seems to run about 18-19 around town.
    The five speed automatic transmission shifts perfectly all the time. I had been concerned about that because there were messeges in the past where owners stated that there were some problems or issues with the shifting, but mine seems to have "learned" perfectly well how and when to shift.
    I am supposing that when I change the timing belt, I should also change the water pump. The Dealer wants $130.52 for a new water pump, and Discount Auto Parts wants $66.00 for a new water pump. I am wondering if is ok to buy the cheaper water pump or do I need to buy the Dealer water pump? Has anyone here had any experience on this issue?
    Thanks,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Methinks for $30 you bought a replacement serpentine belt, not an actual timing belt.
  • webgoodwebgood Member Posts: 95
    First-off, I'm not an expert or mechanic, just a very satisfied '04 HL and long-time Toyota owner. From the knowledgeable and honest Toyota mechanics (as well as non-Toyota ones) I have talked to over the years, it makes good preventative sense to have the water pump replaced when doing the timing belt. They have to remove it anyway to get to the belt and it's relatively cheap insurance against this wearable part to have it all done at the same time because the labor is the biggest part of the cost. And, I don't go cheap (I can afford to I guess); if the factory part goes bad (discounting normal wear/tear), I can look my Toyota guy right in the eye and he makes it right. Regards, BGood
  • jemmich1jemmich1 Member Posts: 5
    At the same time you do a timing belt, also may be good to replace camshaft and crankcase oil seals. They usually begin to seep oil as they harden with age.
    Also, have the timing belt idler pulleys checked. Depending on mileage, their internal bearings dry out and wear. With a new belt, pump, seals and pulleys, you can button that area up for a long rest.
  • webgoodwebgood Member Posts: 95
    Thanks jemmich, and agreed. I completely forgot to mention those items since with my past services they just came as a recommended package. ;)
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