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Toyota Highlander Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • quattroheadquattrohead Member Posts: 12
    Bump, No one has ever seen this problem before ? My local dealer has not and rightly said there would be little chance of finding it until it gets worse.
    BTW, forgot to say its a 2002 V6 limited with 80K miles.

    It could be a wiring issue, the truck has been crashed heavily twice :cry: Once in the front and another time T boned. I wonder if the wiring going down that side now has an issue.
    Anyone have full schematics or know where to find them ?
  • herzogtum71herzogtum71 Member Posts: 470
    You might want to search the discussion for other makes. A friend of mine once talked about an ABS situation similar to what you describe. I believe it was with Subaru, and it had something to do with braking over potholes and/or water puddles. This was a long time ago, though, and it's pretty foggy in my memory.
  • 8beny88beny8 Member Posts: 1
    I need help to determine location of Oxygen Sensor 1 for Bank 2 (P0141) and Sensor 2 for Bank 2 (P0161). I saw the forum mentioned there are only two sensors but when I opened the hood there are for sensors (two for each sides, driver sides and passenger sides). I believe there are two heater sensors and two oxygen sensors. I requested the dealer to fax me the diagram, it shows three instead of four.
  • jrfierojrfiero Member Posts: 123
    I just replaced the brake pads on all four wheels of my 2001 V6 Ltd with just over 68K miles. None was down to the squealers, but the fronts were close, less than 3mm. The rears were only slightly less worn.
    It couldn't be any easier to change the pads on this car. I had a little trouble with the dust boot on one piston not wanting to go back into the caliper with the piston, but other than that it was a cinch.
  • jrfierojrfiero Member Posts: 123
    While I was replacing my brake pads, I noticed the boots on both rear shocks/struts are torn and useless.
    1) is this a big deal?
    2) I suspect its a major operation to replace them, removing the springs and all. Does anyone have any experience with such things?

    The other thing I noticed while replacing the brake pads is that Nitrile gloves from Home Depot are junk. They tear with the slightest provocation. Nitriles are supposed to be tougher than your basic latex gloves, but these aren't. Buy 'em somewhere else.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Forget those thin nitrile gloves, they are too flimsy. I use a good pair of CLOTH GLOVES with the Nitrile covering that covers the fingers and inside of the palm of the glove, these are tough and last a long time, available at any auto parts store. The brand I bought was "Workwear", but I am sure most any brand of the same type gloves would be good. I have used mine for a year on many tough jobs, including doing an engine rebuild, several brake jobs and general servicing, and I throw them in the washing machine to clean them. Great gloves, they have made doing my mechanical work much easier and cleaner.
    E.D. ISF
  • seadoo2seadoo2 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem and the same Toyota Highlander 2002.
    Did you ever find out the problem and solution?

    I have gotten several codes off the ecu scan and I am not sure what they will require to resolve the problem. The codes are:
    P0440 EVAP Emisison Control Malfunction

    P0441 EVAP Emission Control System Purge flow fault

    P0446 EVAP Emission Control Vent Circuit Malfunction
  • quattroheadquattrohead Member Posts: 12
    I became bad enough that a trip to the dealer was in order. They diagnosed bad ABS sensor signal from the right rear. They wanted to replace the sensor at a cost of $525...checked online and found the price to be under $200. Ordered and replaced and still the same.
    I do see that the teeth on the hub are not totally clean, so how does one get to them to clean properly ?
  • irishcaseyirishcasey Member Posts: 36
    I have an 02 HL V6 AWD 90K miles. Always serviced at dealer with shorter than recommended intervals. Hopefully someone can help with this problem.

    Last Spring CEL comes on. Check oil, level is low. Add oil. Continue checking oil and note continued consumption. Discussed with dealer and they top off oil and I bring back twice. After 500 miles oil is 1 quart low. Next time after 900 miles oil is almost 2 quarts low. Dealer agrees oil comsumption problem.

    Also, have intermittent exhaust smoke on startup.

    I'm aware of and have the paperwork for the oil sludge settlement of which my HL is covered. Make my case to the dealer that blue smoke and oil consumption is covered under this settlement. They remove valve cover ($125) and say no sludge problem therefore not covered under the settlement. Dealer says must be something else. SA tells me $5K to rebuild engine if that is the problem.

    I call number on settlement paperwork (Toyota corporate), give them details. They have dealer SA call me back and say they need to again remove the valve cover to determine the problem (another $125). He says that they may have to do some type of pressure test, doesn't give cost. He also says that if problem is valve guide the cost is all mine. If the problem is bad rings, Toyota will share in the cost, whatever that means.

    If anyone can provide any input/advice on this topic it would be greatly appreciated. I know very little about engines.

    Also, I read on post on Edmunds that indicated that a clogged PCV valve could cause excessive oil consumption. That's apparently a $10 item. Can anyone verify if this could be the problem.

    Does anyone know the cost to repair valve guides or the cost to repair bad rings?

    thanks in advance for any solutions!!
  • hjhoodhjhood Member Posts: 1
    I have read through most of the noise complaints on this 2007 HL with 16K miles and have not seen this one!

    At about 20 mph and again at 40 mph a noise that I can only describe as a continual hardly audible 'whoop,whoop,whoop' begins and lasts until I pass through each range. Most noticeable when climbing a moderate to steep grade.

    I thought about the tires (just replaced with Costco's BFG Touring) - but noticed that when I take my foot of the gas pedal, the noise stops. This has to be in the drive train somewhere.

    Any ideas what it is - and how do I reference this problem to my dealer/service repair?
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    I've got an 04 Highlander, 39K miles, 4 cyl, A/C blowing air that is barely cool. I did a pressure test, checked out fine, but the compressor is not cycling on. Any ideas?
  • jrfierojrfiero Member Posts: 123
    Ecotrklvr, you still here?
    I'm having the high idle problem on my V6.
    How long did the positive results from your cleaning last? I noticed in another post you recommended replacement rather than cleaning.

    Anyone else with ISCV experience, or other cures for high idle? I'm talking over 2000 rpm warm, occasionally drops lower. Pretty annoying.
  • highlander02highlander02 Member Posts: 1
    Hi. I feel your abs pain. I am having the exact troubles with my 02 highlander. Did you get the issues resolved?
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    The scheduled maintenance for my 2004 shows this every 15,000 miles. I had it done once so far and am going in for an oil change next week. Now have 34k miles on the HL. Of course, the dealer never mentions it while he trying to get me to do all sorts of stuff that isn't required by the Toyota maintenance schedule. Anyone have this done as required or have a rationale for not doing it?
  • webgoodwebgood Member Posts: 95
    I had my local servicing dealership do my 04's last year at 3 years & 21K miles. They didn't charge me anything for it while doing the regular PM service I have them do (which is oil, filter and lube...period), all for $22.77.
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    " They didn't charge me anything for it..."

    That's amazing! I think my dealer charged me $35 a couple years ago.
  • webgoodwebgood Member Posts: 95
    Yea, I'm pretty lucky having such a good outfit close-by. I checked my work-order receipt, charge line for the re-torque was $0.00.
    Moderators-I don't suppose I can give 'em a plug by name here, could I? :D
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Dealer names and locations are fine. No names of individuals or phone numbers please (those numbers change and wind up giving us fits 5 years later when the new owner of the number contacts our help desk).

    Give 'em a thumbs up over in Dealer Ratings and Reviews too.
  • webgoodwebgood Member Posts: 95
    Thanks Steve. It's here in the midwest, Quad Cities Iowa & Illinois, Highland Toyota in Moline, Illinois. Great people for service and sales.
    Regards, BGood
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    On the other hand the dealer service manager may have used a bit of common sense and didn't even uselessly expend the effort.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    "I've got an 04 Highlander, 39K miles, 4 cyl, A/C blowing air that is barely cool. I did a pressure test, checked out fine, but the compressor is not cycling on. Any ideas?"

    What kind of "pressure test" did you do? If the compressor does not cycle on, then you won't have any high pressure on the High Side, and you won't have any low pressure on the Low Side. A pressure test is only meaningful if expressed in terms of pressure on the High Side and pressure on the Low Side, along with Ambient temperature and Vent temperature, and engine speed is helpful.
    Example of a usual reading: High Side=225 pounds, Low side=25 pounds, Ambient temperature=88 degrees fahrenheit, Vent temperature=46 degrees fahrenheit, engine speed 1500 rpm.
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    "...the dealer service manager may have used a bit of common sense and didn't even uselessly expend the effort."

    You are suggesting that this isn't a necessary maintenance procedure?
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Suggesting, me..??

    NOT....!!!
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    Just got an oil change at the dealer. The inspection sheet said "transfer case and differential oil dirty, needs changing." This sounds like a way to lighten my wallet and fatten the dealers. Anyone ever have this service recommended? Aren't these sealed/closed systems?

    I need new tires. Looking at the Bridgestone Alenza to replace Michelin LTX. Much better ratings on Tirerack and a little cheaper. Anyone have these tires?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Look in your manual, and have the services done that are listed in the book. Anything other than that is not maintenance, but repair work, and you should be given a complete explaination and quotation, then ask them every conceivable question about it.
    WHY do I need this work?
    Why don't you do this work when it's listed in the book or IS it listed in the book?
    If not listed in the book, again WHY do I need this work?
    Why is the transfer case and differential oil dirty? Is it time for it to be dirty? If not, why did it get dirty early?
    How dirty is it supposed to get before it needs changing.
    (Note for you; just because the oil is dirty does not mean it is bad and need changing, it only needs changing if it is starting to chemically break down or is very contaminated). That is why oils are generally changed at milage/time inetervals. I would not get those services, unless I really know I need them.

    If you really want to find out how good or how bad your oil is, you can send a sample of oil to an oil analysis company for a fee, and they will send you a full report with a full explaination. You can find these companies on the Internet. Just google "oil analysis".

    There is a company called Black something that says "Oil analysis can identify any problems developing in your engine long before they cause you an expensive headache. Or maybe you'd just like to get a good look at the microscopic wear your engine is producing. Can you run a fill of oil longer than 3000 miles? Are your oil and air filters doing a good job? Is your tranmission or differential oil holding up? We can answer these questions and more when you submit a sample of your engine oil for analysis."
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    There is a company called Black something that

    Blackstone Labs

    Testing is up to $22.50 now. Seems like you could get a test down for about half that a few years ago.
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    I have asked those questions before and always get some nonsense answer. I was more curious if other Toyota dealer service departments do the same thing. I may try the other dealer in town next time even though it's much less convenient, location-wise.

    The service writer had a brochure on his desk for brake fluid replacement. That's a service you won't find in the manual but is a good idea every few years because brake fluid absorbs water. They wanted $90!!! More than transmission fluid service. I'll buy a quart and do it myself. (He did say it probably didn't need to be done before 60K miles).
  • jrfierojrfiero Member Posts: 123
    I cleaned the Idle Speed Control Valve on my 2001 V6 over the weekend, and it cured my high warm idle. I had just additionally started to get an erratic cold idle.
    It's kind of a pain.
    There are a couple writeups online, one on Tundra Solutions, but they aren't quite right.
    The ISCV is attached to the bottom of the throttle body, and you need to remove the throttle body to get the ISCV off. Perhaps if you're really good and you have some trick tools you could get it off the throttle body without removing the throttle body - I didn't try, and its a good thing. Its a good thing because the ISCV is held to the throttle body by four Phillips head screws, and I stripped two of them before going to an impact driver for the 3rd and 4th, which made me very nervous on the aluminum throttle body. I replaced the fasteners with cap screws.
    There's a lot more to it, but once I got it cleaned and reassembled, there was a coolant leak from the hose attached to the ISCV. Same original clamp, perhaps I should have replaced them. Grrr. I removed the air cleaner and intake hoses again, and ran the car without them, which of course throws a diagnostic code and illuminates the check engine light. Plus, the hose didn't leak in that condition! So, I put if back together, there was initially a slight leak which has now stopped, the idle is fine in all scenarios, and the CEL has gone out after several cycles.
    I'd still do it again to save the $500 or so, but I wouldn't suggest others try it unless they're mechanically adventurous and have a good selection of tools.

    Jonas
  • rodonnellrodonnell Member Posts: 37
    Irishcasey. I dont think you have a PCV failure, however a new PCV is inexpensive and may be worth a try. Simple as replacing a spark plug to replace.

    The smoke and excessive oil consumption concern me and lead me to think you have a valve guide problem. Smoking tailpipe at idle is a dead giveaway. The oil consumption, while alarming, is not excessive for an engine with bad guides. A vacuum test will reveal for sure if you have bad valve guides. Plug a vacuum gauge into any available below throttle port and let the engine idle. A sound engine will show between 15-19 inches. A vibrating reading indicates bad valve guides.

    Valve guide replacement is expensive, essentially involves an engine top end, or head rebuild. In an otherwise sound vehicle, probably worth the expense.

    You could have bad rings, but I doubt that, as you would be seeing smoke out the tailpipe all the time. You can test for bad rings, as well as bad valves amongst other things, by performing a cylinder leakdown test. If your vacuum test is normal, I would follow up with a compression test, then a leak down test.

    Failing these tests would result in a total engine rebuild, or replacement. More expensive, and might not be worth the cost.

    Good luck.
    Ray
  • jilin74jilin74 Member Posts: 24
    My HL's odometer shows 4602 mile at the moment and it has been showing a message "need engine oil change/ maintainance soon" message on the display everytime I start it.

    Is it just a reminder due to the number of miles I have driven or does it actually have some relationship to the current quality of the engine oil? Toyota recommends oil change every 5k, do you guys always do it at the dealership? Or is a regular place around the corner ok as well? Is there any difference?
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    I believe that there is some kind of algorithm involved that looks at # of starts, time the engine is on, maybe average coolant temp in addition to the number of miles driven. Otherwise it would come on at exactly 5000 miles. I could be wrong. :)

    I have always gone to the dealership. It's not much more expensive than an independent shop and then they have the record should you have a problem under warranty. I would never go to one of the "quicky lube" places. I've heard/read too many horror stories about them.
  • kenabrkenabr Member Posts: 9
    For about the last several years we have heard a clunk sound in the rear of our 2002 Highlander when we hit a bump. Our dealer has repeatedly dismissed this until now. The mechanic told my wife that we need to replace the driver side rearradial arm cam bolts which will cost around $585.00 for parts and labor. Just what is this part of the car?
  • mdhuttonmdhutton Member Posts: 195
    I'm going to disagree with lmacmil on this one.

    My '08 HL had the same message appear at almost the exact same mileage, and I'm just guessing that the likelihood of me having the same # of starts, time the engine is on, and average coolant temperature as jilin74 is pretty low.

    The message is simply a reminder that you're approaching a manufacturer's recommended service interval. My dealer charged $24.95 for the oil/filter change and $12.00 for the tire rotation (also recommended @ 5K). Together, that's about what I would have paid for just the oil/filter change at the local oil joint (a.k.a. high school auto shop). I feel better knowing the work was done by factory-trained people, that Toyota has a record of all work performed, and the price is well within reason.
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    You are probably right. It does come on too consistently to be connected to anything other than the odometer. I stand corrected.

    On my Olds Intrigue, there was an algorithm involved because it came on much sooner in the winter (more cold starts, lower engine temps, etc.) than it did in the summer.
  • jackmick656jackmick656 Member Posts: 61
    I am trying to change wiper blades on my 2003 HL but the old blades won't budge. Can anyone please give me a tip on how to remove the original wiper blades. Any help will be much appreciated. Thanks.
  • ohmygoshohmygosh Member Posts: 66
    I have a 2004 Toyota Highlander that I keep in pristine condition, however, it has developed a nasty mildew smell over the last 6 months that I could not correct. Finally, I took it into the dealer and they told me that my sun roof drains were clogged and that is what probably caused this condition. They cleaned them out and deodorized/sanitized the ventilation system. It cost me $160 for this service and the smell still has not discipated. Any feedback on this issue would be appreciated.
  • webgoodwebgood Member Posts: 95
    Have you (or the dealer) checked the cabin filter behind the glove box? Also, I'm not sure if this applies to the HL, are there drain tubes from the condenser coils that might be plugged? FYI-Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol in a spray bottle makes a great sanitizer/deodorizer. The alcohol kills bacteria that makes the odor and while not everybody cares for the alcohol odor, it dissipates pretty quickly. You can turn on any ventilation blower and mist the spray into the intakes where it'll get sucked in. Works great on the insides of shoes/boots/sneakers.
    Also check under your front floor carpet for dampness/odor.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Google for:

    wwest EED odor gym
  • bluenose2bluenose2 Member Posts: 12
    I have a 2006 HL AWD Limited with 64k kilometers (40K miles) on it. The Dealer tells me the rear brake pads are shot and the rotors are "too rusty" to be turned. This sounds ridiculous. I have never replaced pads front or rear on any other vehicle before well over 100K km, as I am very easy on the brakes and most of my driving is highway miles. Why would rear pads be worn out before front?
    A possible related problem I have had since new is that something locks up (I believe it is the rear brakes) when I leave the vehicle unattended for a week or more -usually in an airport parking lot) and it takes a lot of effort to get the vehicle to move, accompanied by a loud snap). The Dealer said I had a caliper seized - but since new?? Perhaps this has worn down the rear brakes? Appreciate any comments.
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    It is virtually impossible on a correctly functioning brake system for the rear pads to wear out sooner than the front. And turning rotors is based on thickness not the amount of rust. I would look for another dealer or independent shop for a 2nd opinion.

    It is possible for the linings to "stick" to the rotor if left unattended but I would expect it to take more than a week and would also expect them to break free fairly easily. Not sure what this could be. Are you setting the parking brake? If the caliper seized, you probably couldn't apply the brake, it wouldn't typically seize in the applied position. But if the caliper piston is stuck in the applied position, this could explain the pad wear.
  • alexol25alexol25 Member Posts: 1
    I seemed to have stupid problem which I could not figure out. In 2008 HL air filter compartment is not closed using simple clips which I used to see in other cars, but 2 bolts. I was trying to unscrew them, but every possible force I was applying to them had no effect, so I started to think may be I just do not understand how it should be opened.

    Could anyone advise please?
  • bluenose2bluenose2 Member Posts: 12
    Thanks, that is helpful. I intend to take it to another shop. I do not set the parking brake when left unattended. I think you are right that the stuck piston is what is responsible for the premature wear on the pads.
  • patreeziapatreezia Member Posts: 3
    I know this thread is from several months ago,but if you're still reading it,I want to say that I am having similar problems with Toyota's unresponsiveness. I have a 2002 Highlander,V6 AWD,purchased new 6.5 years ago,which just turned over to 62K miles. Although the car is performing well,I am told it is leaking transmission fluid AND also slowly leaking P/S fluid,requiring a torque seal replacement,a new P/S pump,plus an alignment. The total cost for all this is over $2300! I had done every maintenance,lube,etc. on time,with the Toyota service people;the car had never been driven off-road or been in an accident,etc. I am really disappointed,because I had bought the big story that Toyotas are such solid,reliable cars.I've never had any car that just fell apart this way,when still at such low miles. I asked Toyota to assist with these repair charges,and they basically replied, "Awwwww....too bad. But we won't help you." Now I plan to write a letter to Jim Lentz's office,but doubt it will do any good,since the regional mgr.has already said no help is forthcoming. Their position is that I'm out of warranty,so it's my bad luck. I've told them that I had originally been so excited to be buying a Toyota because of its great reputation for being well-made,and believed that a well-cared-for Toyota would last a good many years without major problems. I guess this is my first AND last Toyota. Does anyone out there have any suggestions? :(
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    You can buy, and refill, a lot of ATF and PS fluid for even 10% of that $2300 invoice.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Next time buy a FWD instead of an AWD. That may help with the transmission leak problem. You said you were "told" that the fluids were leaking? They must not be too bad if you didn't see it yourself. Look for signs of leakage where you park your car. Add fluids as needed for now. If the leaks get severe, then consider repairs. You said you were also "told" you needed an alignment? How good or bad is your steering or does it drive OK? Is the steering wheel straight? Does it pull left or right? How are the tires wearing. Any excessive tire wear on the inside, outside or tire tread feathering? I would not believe what I was told without strong evidence to substantiate such repairs.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
    I've got a 2004 HL Limited V6 Auto FWD with 110,000 miles, and it's almost perfect.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    I too was "told" by my Honda dealer that my '99 CRV with 135K miles was leaking anit-freeze, brake fluid from the master cylinder, and oil from the valve cover gasket. Yet when I check these fluids, which I have done religiously since owning it, I've NEVER had to put any of those fluids in and also have never seen any of those fluids in my drive way.

    Someone else explained it best to me. As a car ages, the seals do get "some" leakage. When I looked at my master cylinder, I did see what appeared like seapage around it, yet it was still full of brake fluid. Now, could it start leaking like a crazy? Maybe. But I wasn't about to sink a grand or more in to the vehicle.

    The others here have given good advice. Just check these fluids once or twice a week and fill as needed. I'd bet you won't put hardly anything at all in. Also if you park in a garage, put some card board under where you park and check this for any drips.

    And don't waste your time trying to get Toyota to ante up. The O2 sensor went on my son's Tacoma when it was 3K miles and one month off of warranty and they wouldn't help. They just referred it to the dealer who wouldn't return my calls. I currently have four Toyotas in my household and will NEVER own another one. Between the quality issues I've seen and the arrogant dealers being a royal pain in my [non-permissible content removed], they can go pound salt before I buy another one.
  • typesixtypesix Member Posts: 321
    The O2 sensor should have been covered under federal emissions warranty, which runs longer than basic warranty.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    I tried that, the emissions warranty is spelled out in my manual and confirmed by the dealer. It was out of warranty.
  • byumgrbyumgr Member Posts: 14
    I have always had the engine air filter checked/replaced by the service dept. But for the life of me when I look under the hood I can not find where the engine air filter is located. There is no way that it is behind the radiator. I do know how to change the cabin air filter. the owners manual does not show or tell me how to change the engine air filter. So can anyone please tell me or even supply a photo of where it is in the engine compartment? thank you.
  • irishcaseyirishcasey Member Posts: 36
    I u/s the timing belt should be replaced around 90K. I have a V6 AWD w/ about 93K. I wondering if someone can tell me what I could expect to pay to have the timing belt replaced and are there other belts that are included in this. AND is there anything else that should be done at the same time as the timing belt because of convenience, for example the water pump. Any help would be much appreciated.
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