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Toyota Highlander Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mpolanmpolan Member Posts: 8
    Thank you very much for your picture diary. I just changed the belt on my 2003 highlander, and your pictures were VERY helpful E.D.!

    I second the point about needing the right tools and experience, it's not a job for the faint hearted or inexperienced. I found I needed a number of different lengths of sockets - not just extensions, and I needed to use my wobblers to get at a few of the tougher bolts.

    I have a couple of tips to add:

    My haynes manual said to remove the steering pump. I found this too difficult - too hard to get at all the bolts through the pulley with the engine in the car. Instead I found I could move the bracket that tightens the belt to get it out of the way of the various bolts I needed to reach - the ones on the timing belt cover, and the belt tensioner. Bit of a fiddle to get the tensioner out with it there, but it did come out.

    For that annoying aluminum bracket bolted and held with studs onto the block, the one in the way of the timing belt. I didn't have to remove the studs to get it off (I didn't have that stud remover, what is that E.D.?). I found that by jacking up the engine from the pan, then using my body weight on the chassis, the engine would move up slightly. This gave just enough room around the frame to slip the bracket off the studs. Whew! Replacement is the reverse of disassembly :).

    Mike
  • mtairyordgemtairyordge Member Posts: 144
    I have had my HLmtd since Memeorial Day. This past week is the first time that the SRS warning light and message has been coming on while driving. At first I was able to get it to not stay on by restraing the car. I guess the 'hard boot' worked for about 2 days. Now that soes not seem to do the trick.

    My search on the internet and other boards has uncovered this issue with past years Highlanders and past years other Toyos. So far the local service managers have not been helpful, I have an appointment on Tuesday, telling me anything about this.

    Can anyone shed some light on this for me.

    Thanks :sick:
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Yes, the PS pump merely has to be loosened and pushed to the side, to allow enough room for the timing belt tensioner to come off. Pictures #08131, 08132 & 08133 shows me removing the PS bolt from above using a long extension on the rachet handle for leverage and being able to reach into the tight spot.

    The studs that hold that annoying aluminum bracket on are equally annoying. Picture #08120 shows the end of a still installed stud, and you can see the end of the stud is not plain, but has a male TORX head on it. Picture #08125 shows two studs removed, so that you can see the whole stud with the male TORX head end. Pictures #08121, 08122 & 08123 show me loosing the studs with a TORX socket on the end of a 1/4 inch drive breaker bar. Those things were very tight! I can't remember the TORX socket size I used, but if you have a set of them, you will have the one that you need. The studs are only turned enough until they are loose, and left in the bracket, because there is not enough room for them to slide out of the bracket. Once all of them are loose, you can then lift the bracket out with the studs in the bracket, as in photo #'s 08124 & 08126. These studs and their threads are subject to a lot of corrosion, so when I put them back in, I coated the studs with a liberal coating of never seize compound.

    Reference messege # 4335 for information on how to access the photos.

    E.D.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    I would suspect the "clockspring" electrical connection to the stearing wheel airbag.
  • rmb26rmb26 Member Posts: 3
    I was told by a mechanic that my 2002 2x4 V6 highlander is leaking oil via the main seal in the back of the engine. Another mechanic told me it would cost between $1600 and $1800 to fix because he has to remove the transmission and engine to get to it (about 18 hrs of labor). I called the dealer nearby and was told that the part was only about $80 but that the labor involved in removing the engine and transmission was about $2200 - $2400. I read a post that indicated that this leak can be caused by putting in too much oil. HAs anyone heard this? the reason I ask is because I took it to Jiffy Lube in late August. Shortly after that, the check engine light went on. It cost me about $190 to find out it was a loose hose, which probably occured at Jiffy Lube. If this new problem is due to overfilling it with oil, I may need to look elsewhere for my regular maintenance.
  • mpolanmpolan Member Posts: 8
    Ah, I didn't know there was such a thing as male torx heads, thanks E.D.

    I'm not sure you understood my tip - there's no need to loosen or remove the power steering pump at all, as long as you don't mind pushing it up and down on the belt adjuster to get it out of the way a few times. I used a piece of metal tube and a hammer. Only the adjustment bracket need be removed.

    Same with the aluminum bracket - there's no need to remove the studs from the block, it's possible to slip the bracket off the studs by pushing up on the engine/down on the chassis - there's just enough room. Of course it's important to remember to fit the bolts beforehand, they can be a fiddle otherwise!

    Mike
  • carsedancarsedan Member Posts: 1
    Please add me to your email preferences in your mailbox under "my carspace".
  • rflsaccarflsacca Member Posts: 3
    I own a 2002 highlander with the intermittent heat problem. The problem started a couple weeks ago. I thought I'd read this forum before going to the dealer. Sure glad I did.

    I just went outside and tightened the nut. It was indeed loose. A simple 5 minute job. Tested and works great now. I just made $900 bucks!
  • loomis2loomis2 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 01 Highlander I just paid $773 plus sales tax to change both the timing belt and water pump on. I later found out that just down the street another garage was having a special and I could have had the same work done for $465 plus sales tax.
  • irishcaseyirishcasey Member Posts: 36
    Loomis2, thanks you your response.
  • herzogtum71herzogtum71 Member Posts: 470
    I don't know if overfilling would cause the specific leak you describe, but I know many people who think it is a good idea to avoid Jiffy Lube. Last time I used Jiffy Lube was in 1992 when we had just moved to Massachusetts. They saw the Colorado license plate and figured that they wouldn't really change the oil and filter but that they could get away with charging me for an oil change anyway.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    "I have an 01 Highlander I just paid $773 plus sales tax to change both the timing belt and water pump on. I later found out that just down the street another garage was having a special and I could have had the same work done for $465 plus sales tax."

    From messege #4294: I changed the belts and water pump myself on my 04 Highlander V6, and the job only cost me about $150.00 for the parts, water pump, timing belt, alternator/AC belt, power steering pump belt & 1 gallon of Toyota red long life coolant. It was a fulls days work and a lot of tools though.

    I think about from $600 to $700 would be an average price, but depends on your location. The $465 sounds like a very good deal, if they warranty and stand behind their work.

    Also see messeges #4331 and #4335 for more information and how to view photos of the work being done.

    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • rmb26rmb26 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the response. I think I will avoid Jiffy Lube from now on, just in case. My HL is now in the shop. I should get it back Wednesday or Thursday. The mechanic said that with the few miles I have on it (49,000 for a 2002 HL) the seal should not have been leaking. He says that there is a spring that holds the seal against the shaft and, if the spring broke and scratched the shaft, it will continue to leak due to the tight tolerances required. He says he can try to move the replacement seal forward or back a little, but if it doesn't work, I'll just have to live with it, as it is certainly not worth replacing the engine!

    We'll see what he finds.
  • mtairyordgemtairyordge Member Posts: 144
    Can you explain a little further the "Clockspring" electrical connection.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Think retracting extension cord.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    I stopped using Bellevue Lexus for oil changes in my '92 LS because I once got it back with the new oil added on top of the old and no filter change. Its NEVER been back.

    A friend with a PRISTINE garage floor got his '95 LS back from the same dealer with a leaking rear engine seal after an oil/filter change. $1100 later and all they would do was offer a free oil change.
  • mtairyordgemtairyordge Member Posts: 144
    I understand 'retracking extension cord' but I would like to understand:

    1) What the clockspring does?
    2) How does it work?
    3) What is its purpose, as it relates to the SRS system, or any other system?

    Any hints.....
  • tschuk02tschuk02 Member Posts: 1
    I've done this on several cars/trucks and am about to replace timing belt on our 05 highlander with 101K. It's a good idea when replacing the timing belt to also replace the water pump and other belts if applicable along with applicable tensioner pulleys. Usually at least with our Hondas you can buy a kit that comes with the timing belt, pulleys etc. Water pump is extra. expect to spend anywhere from 600-1K depending on what all you're replacing and your shops rates. Many of the parts are cheap, it's the labor that is expensive, so keep that in mind.
  • mtairyordgemtairyordge Member Posts: 144
    Okay, So if the connection at any point is "loose" it could cause the warning message. Am I correct in that? The fact that it does not happen all the time would fit in this case.

    In your experience is there another possible source of the intermittent message.

    Also, if the message comes up should it leave a code in the diagnostic computer.
    In what cases would a code not be saved?
    The message is "Check SRS Airbag System Have your vehicle checked by a dealer immediately"
  • mckeownmckeown Member Posts: 165
    My wife also has an 04 V6 AWD. I did the timing belt a few months ago.

    Regarding that aluminum engine mounting bracket right on top of the water pump, I removed the single bolt along the frame right in front of it holding a PS hose to the frame. After removing that, the bracket just slides off. No removing the studs nor jacking up the motor.

    A few things make this difficult .....
    no room to work. My hands were sore, scraped and cut for days.
    The alternator bolts were VERY difficult to get to even for normal belt replacement
    After removing the bolts, getting the upper belt cover out/ back in properly was difficult.
    Glad I still have an electric impact wrench. rated at 340 ft lbs. Still had to stay on the crank bolt for about 5 minutes before it would budge. I don't know HOW I would have removed it if I didn't have an impact wrench.

    As already stated, not a job for the feign of heart. Too easy to strip a bolt head of worse if one is not careful.

    Mikey ( name sounds young but I remember servicing engines before PCV systems ... breather pipes .. and it was an 'old' motor at 60K let alone 100+K today )
  • rmb26rmb26 Member Posts: 3
    Well, I just heard from the mechanic. my '02 HL had an oil pan leak and a water leak as well as the main engine seal leak. He also said my engine had a lot of "gunk" in it as well. He says that Toyota has had some problems with that V6 engine (same on as Camry?).

    What irks me is that I've changed the oil every 3,000 miles, first with the dealer and then with Jiffy Lube. I had everything done that was "recommended", as I had decided it was better to play it safe. Now I find it was all for nothing (well, I guess it could always be worse) since I still will have to pay what I'm sure will be upward of $2,000.

    Of course, I have to take the mechanic's word for it. Unless I take the engine apart for myself and have a look (which is outside of my capabilities), I'll never know for sure.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    "my '02 HL had an oil pan leak and a water leak as well as the main engine seal leak. He also said my engine had a lot of "gunk" in it as well. I've changed the oil every 3,000 miles, first with the dealer and then with Jiffy Lube. I had everything done that was "recommended"

    The problem is the TYPE of engine oil that was used. If you want to keep the GUNK out of your engine, you need to use a top quality full synthetic motor oil, such as Mobil One or Valvoline or other top graded oil, AND a top quality synthetic motor oil filter, such as Mobil One or the Purolator Pure One.

    My 04 V6 FWD HL has over 110,000 GUNK free miles on it, and I only change oil and filter every 7,500 miles using either Mobile One or Valvoline full synthetic motor oils and Pure One motor oil filter. It always runs like brand new and doesn't leak a drop of anything.

    Also important to remember: Every 60,000 miles to Flush and change the Automatic Transmission fluid and to Flush and change the Brake Fluid. This will keep the GUNK out of these systems also.

    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    "Regarding that aluminum engine mounting bracket right on top of the water pump, I removed the single bolt along the frame right in front of it holding a PS hose to the frame. After removing that, the bracket just slides off. No removing the studs nor jacking up the motor."

    Removing those studs was not a problem and was fairly easy, it is just a matter of having the right tool (torx socket). They were tight, but once they break loose, they screw right out fairly easily. Not a problem.

    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    My '99 Nissan has 129,000 gunk free miles on it buying whatever the lastest API designated oil is on sale at WallyWorld or NAPA.

    I'd be a bit dubious about a quickie lube doing my oil changes. I don't believe in tranny "flushes" either. But we digress. :shades:

    Since Toyota's have had "gel" problems, I'd contact Toyota and ask them to open a case. Maybe they'll fix all or part of it. The history is in the Toyota Engine Sludge discussion.

    Check out Understanding After Warranty Assistance too.
  • mtairyordgemtairyordge Member Posts: 144
    So the message came up last night driving home after about 35 minutes into a 45 minute drive. It again happened this morning after about 35 minutes in the car and I took it directly to the dealer with the message still active, didn't turn the engine off which is the key.

    The code in the diagnostic computer said that the ECM, (I think that was it, if not I will repost the correct verbiage), airbag computer needed to be replaced. They are doing that now.

    I spoke to the lead mechanic and he told me that when this message appears the airbag system is definitely not functioning.

    I hope this solves this for good.

    Thanks
  • dar11dar11 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Highlander 2.4L with 168k, Intermitantly it will not start it will just crank over for maby 10-15 sec. FREE just like a timing belt is broken I know it has a chain. Then I touch the gas and it will start and run as if there was never any problem this happens 3-6 times a week hot or cold. No codes in computer and no other symptoms. I`v been told It may be a IAC or VVT how do I confirm this intermitant problem. Pls help Dave
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    "MY '02 had...."

    My guess would be that over half of the '02 out there in the marketplace will fit that description.

    The question becomes, "how much of a leak..??"

    I would continue to drive the car for awhile and keep careful records of how often and how much water or oil needs to be replaced.
  • jrfierojrfiero Member Posts: 123
    I finally replaced my original 2001 Ltd AWD V6 battery today - March 2001 to November 2008, pretty darn good. ~72K miles.
    Last winter (in Northern VA, not too cold a climate) it seemed a little sluggish, so it was on my radar. Today it just wouldn't crank at all (click, click, click).
    Fortunately I had a old but only slightly used Diehard Weatherbeater sitting around, so we'll see how that goes.

    So far: Left front wheel bearing (warranty), driver's window motor (warranty), rear O2 sensor, clean ISC valve, tires, brakes, and battery. Not perfect, but fine with me coming up on eight years.

    Jonas
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    "I'd be a bit dubious about a quickie lube doing my oil changes. I don't believe in tranny "flushes" either. But we digress"

    Just a comment on the tranny "flushes":
    Changing transmission fluid is better than not changing it, but flushing the transmission fluid is better yet.
    What is important to remember is What a flush is, and Why you need it.
    There is some confusion on What a tranny flush is, so I will clear it up here. Many people think that a tranny flush is a special process and/or that it takes a special flushing machine to do the job. Both of those ideas are misconceptions. A tranny flush is like any other flush, compare it to when you flush a toilet. The new water rushes in and the old water rushes out. In the process there is some mixing of the old dirty water with the new clean water, but the new clean water pushes out all the old dirty water, and some of the new clean water goes down the drain in the process. The reason you need the flush is that you need to get rid of the old dirty water and replace it with the new clean water. Think of the trannny flush in the same way, but instead of water, it is tranny fluid. Some transmissions have replaceable filters that are recommended to be replaced, and some transmissions have screens that are not recommended to be replaced. I do this process to each of my vehicles at every 60,000 miles. Check your manufacturer's recommendations and owners manual to see how often to change/flush your transmission fluid.

    The following is intended as a general guide only. The routine or sequence may need to be altered, depending on the make, model and type of vehicle.

    The first step for flushing is to have the vehicle jacked up with all drive wheels off the ground and the wheels blocked, for clearance and safety so that the car won't move when the gears are engaged. Then loosen one end of the hose that returns the fluid from the external trans fluid cooler back to the transmission. Then the engine is started and run, the transmissions internal pump then pumps the tranny fluid through the external oil cooler and out the end of the loosened hose into the drain tub.
    Then the next step on trannys that have replaceable filters, is to remove the tranny pan, drain the oil from the pan, clean the pan, replace the filter, and replace the pan. Now all the fluid has been drained from the tranny, but there is still some residual amount of fluid left the the transmission passages and components, which is why you need to the flush to push out the old dirty fluid and replace it with new clean fluid.
    The next step is easier with an assistant behind the wheel to start and stop the engine and to change the selector lever positions. Start in the Park position. Position a large drain tub under the loosened cooler hose to catch all the fluid that comes out, the capacity of the transmission plus about 6 quarts. Usually a 6 gallon capacity tub or larger is enough. It helps if you slide a 2 foot piece of larger clear plastic hose over the end of the cooler hose. This helps to control the fluid and also to see the color of the fluid as it drains. Start by pouring 4 quarts of transmission fluid into the transmission filler tube, then have the assistant start the engine, let the engine idle, do not rev the engine, and the fluid will begin to come out the hose into the drain pan. Start pouring in the bottles of transmission fluid, watching the color of the fluid coming out into the tub. Have the assistant firmly hold the foot brake and slowly move the selector through all the gear positions a few times. The fluid will be dark at first and will lighten as the new fluid goes through the transmission. The fluid should be lighter after 4 quarts and should be light very light by six quarts. Stop pouring in fluid when the fluid comes out clean and light, usually by 4 to 6 quarts, then have the assistant shut off the engine and place the transmission in park.
    The tranny is now flushed. Reconnect and tighten the clamp on the oil cooler hose. Pour in 4 quarts of fluid, then have the assistant start the engine again, let it idle, then add one quart of fluid at a time, checking the fluid level when close to full. Be very careful to not overfill the tranny. If you happen to overfill the tranny, you can loosen the cooler hose and let a small amount of fluid out and recheck the fluid level. Be sure to retighten all hose clamps when you are done.
    The transmission is now flushed and refilled, the old fluid is out and the new fluid is in. Be sure to properly dispose of the old tranny fluid. I pour all my used oil based fluids into a 6 gallon plastic gas can that I keep just for this purpose. A really BIG funnel with your assistant holding it is a big help here. The container can be capped closed and then taken to an oil recycling facility and dumped out.

    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Well, we both agree that using a transmission flush machine is of dubious value it seems.

    amigo_john, "Isuzu Trooper" #8070, 30 Jun 2003 6:46 am

    I had this discussion with my (now-ex) mechanic a few months back. They wanted to "flush" my transmission fluid using just the internal pump. I wouldn't let them - just got a drain and fill, told them I'd watch my fluid level and do another drain and fill in a year. (Mine has a dipstick; not sure about the Highlander). Transmission fluid really doesn't get dirty like oil unless you have some issues going on.

    That's good enough for me; others may think it's beneficial or it may be recommended in your owner's manual. I don't have access to a manual, but the Edmunds Maintenance Guide says to inspect the fluid every 30k for the '08 Highlander. I assume that's for normal service and the manual probably says something about changing the fluid if you tow or drive a lot in the mountains perhaps.

    (my mechanic ripped me off on some other stuff btw; the tranny discussion didn't factor into it).
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    I think that doing a drain and fill once a year would probably be as good as a flush and fill every 60k, since the average driver drives about 15k per year and the 60k flush would occur about every 4 years. At 60k the fluid will be darker, but not dirty. The light color of the new fluid is a noticable big difference when flushing. I think waiting until the fluid is dirty is too long to wait, because the damage would aready be done. The "damage" I speak of is hardening and deterioration of the seals (innner and outer), and mechanical wear on the friction linings, gears and bushings.
    The secret to making a transmission last a long time is to keep it COOL and to keep it CLEAN.
    E.D.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I guess you need to define long time too. My minivan had a partial fluid change about six months ago and it's 10 years old and has 129,000 miles on it. Normal service and never towed.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    A long time is a relative term, the most important thing is to follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Sometimes there are exceptions though. All engines and transmissions are not created equal, and some have good service historys and some have bad service historys. I bought my Toyota because of their record of good service history and high reliabilty. Some transmissions, like the early model Explorers with A4LD automatic trannsmission were very problematic, I had a 91 and a 93 and had to replace the transmisions in both of them. Those particular transmissions would contaminate themselves, and if the contamination was left in the tranny for long it would cause the tranny to fail, so those trannys got a complete flush and filter change every year, just to try to keep them alive. I later owned 97 and 2000 V8 Explorers with the 4R70W transmissions which were very reliable and trouble free. I flushed those trannys every 60K. Todays trannys have gotten better, and also the fluids have gotten better. The fluid will get dark over time and miles due to normal wear and tear, some lining wear, and heat. The manufacturer's recommendations are good enough to go by unless there is a problem or reason to do otherwise. It is always a good thing to check the tranny fluid level regularly and at the same time observe the color and notice the smell of the fluid. Fluid that appears dark or smells burnt should be investigated. A burnt smell usually means trouble. Do not let the radiator run hot, as it will cause the tranny to run hot, and damage it also. I think nowadays that every 60K is a good rule of thumb mileage to do a trannny service, to maintain good clean fluid and tranny health. Some trannys could probably go a long time without servicing them, but I feel more comfortable taking care of mine regularly. I also believe it contributes to longer life of the seals and longer life of the transmission. This is important to me because I usually buy my cars with 100,000 miles on them and drive them for 6 years or until they get about 200,000 miles on them. So I strive for long life and reliablity. Fluid that looks dirty actually has microscopic particles floating in it, and I don't like microscopic particles rubbing on my bushings and seals, possibly wearing them out sooner. So that's my humble opinion on tranny flushes, changes and service time intervals.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    It's interesting (to me anyway) that you can't tell much of anything by looking at or smelling engine oil, but it's a pretty good way to inspect transmission fluid.

    Hey, you should buy my Quest - great VQ drivetrain and it meets your mileage criteria. :D

    Ok, back to Highlanders.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Why do you say "looking" at engine oil isn't a good way to tell if it needs to be changed..??

    Engine lubricating oil is EXPECTED to become dirty due to byproducts of the combustion process getting past the piston rings and valve seals. Engine oil is formulated to hold these particles in suspension whereas ATF is formulated otherwise. Absent the ATF having been overheated, drop the sump pan on your transmission and you will undoubtedly find a layer of debris from the wear of the frictional clutch surfaces, but a reasonably clean and clear ATF.

    I always run my engines long enough to get up to normal operating temperature just before draining the engine oil. That way I drain off most of the contamination that might otherwise have settled to the bottom of the sump.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Right, it's supposed to get dirty with everything held in suspension or trapped by the filter, unlike transmission fluid. You can't tell by looking at your oil if it needs to be changed. So you should either follow the maintenance interval in the owner's manual or get an oil analysis.

    How do keep from burning your hands btw? I can't crawl under my van until it cools down a bit to change my oil.
  • tsotsitsotsi Member Posts: 98
    It's too bad there is not more research on helping high-mileage cars reach even higher mileages. One school of thought about flushing is that after many years and miles there is a lot of crud built up on internal parts, in places where there isn't any kind of natural cleaning action. The result is that if you flush an engine or gearbox you had better flush it really well because the first result of a violent flush is that some of that crud will be washed into suspension where it will do real damage. So, if you are going to flush, make sure you keep flushing until all the crud you have knocked into suspension is truly gone from the inside. Anybody who has worked on old cars knows that even with flushing, a lot of nasty stuff will still be stuck inside the engine and transmission until they are taken apart and really cleaned.

    My own idea -- not proven by any actual research (so take it with a grain of salt) -- is that it is better to just change the oil and let the crud rest in peace . . . where it isn't doing any damage. The only exceptions may be engines that are prone to sludge build-up.
  • Canadian_HuskyCanadian_Husky Member Posts: 1
    The small light for the shifter is on and off regularly. I wanting to access under the plastic cover. Any suggestion how to remove console?
  • budhbudh Member Posts: 109
    I filled my tank yesterday evening in my 153,000 mile 2002 Highlander Limited AWD V6. Then went through an automatic car wash before driving five miles home. When I got out of the Highlander I saw the gas cap was off and was off during the car wash!

    No issue with my five mile drive home.

    What would you do to make sure it keeps running right after this error?

    And now that I have reinstalled the gas cap properly, can I prevent the check engine light from coming on?

    (I live in a fairly cold climate near the Indiana/Michigan state line.)

    Bud H
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    It depends on how much water got into the gas tank. You can add some gas tank additives that claim to dry the moisture out of the gas, but they only work for very small amounts of water, like condensation. You did not notice any problen yet because the gas floats on top of the water, the water rolls around on the bottom of the tank, it moves due to the motion of the car, until it happens to get sucked up by the pickup tube. You don't know how much is in there, but it is best to get it out, the most sure way is to have the gas tank removed and drained.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    I've got an 04 Highalnder with 41K miles, not much in the owners manual on when it's recommended to change the anti-freeze. What are the opinions here on when it should be changed? Also, is it as easy as simply draining what's in the radiator by loosening the drain plug? My old Honda CRV also had a large bolt on the engine block to remove that would drain whatever was still in the engine block. Are Toyotas like that as well?
  • herzogtum71herzogtum71 Member Posts: 470
    On my '04 there is a little spring-release flap underneath the gas cap that is always closed unless it is depressed by the nozzle at the gas station. I suspect your '02 is the same. If so, there is little chance that enough water got into the tank to do damage.
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    Here's what the manual says for a 2004 Highlander coolant:

    Initial replacement at 100,000 miles/120 months. Replace every 50,000 miles/60 months thereafter. Refer to "Engine Coolant" in the "Explanation of Maintenance Items" section in the back of this guide for more information.

    Pretty amazing if you remember the "good old days" when you changed coolant every couple of years.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    Yeah I did eventually find that after going through the maint. and owner's manuals better. I changed the anti-freeze anyway, but never did find the bolt on the engine block so I didn't get all of the old stuff drained, but pretty close as the specs say a little over 7 quart capacity and I ended up using 5 quarts.
  • david7070david7070 Member Posts: 1
    did you find a solution for your F to C ????
  • 05highlander0505highlander05 Member Posts: 89
    2005 Highlander
    43,000 miles

    I opened my hood today to add some windshield washer fluid and I noticed that my coolant level was exactly on the "L" level. I also noticed some dried up coolant at the end of the hose that goes towards the radiator. The coolant level seems to stay the same when I checked it this morning and when I checked it when I came home. When I look in the coolant reservoir it is yellow on the top. Other than filling up the reservoir a bit does anyone have any other suggestions, should I be worried?

    Here is a link to the pics:
    http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=draganplavsic&target=ALBUM&id=528357- 4488921410145&authkey=S2JOcBVaJx0&feat=email
  • soco4soco4 Member Posts: 9
    The original battery in our 2002 Highlander V-6 (50K, mild-climate use) seems fine, but I'm wondering if delaying replacement much longer would be a poor risk. 2001-2003 H/L owners who have replaced the original battery: how many months did you get out of your factory battery? Thanks for your information.
  • phrosutphrosut Member Posts: 122
    Our '03 (purchased 10/02) battery died last October. I was satisfied with that lifespan.

    Phil
  • tixtix Member Posts: 27
    Just replaced my battery on a 2004 Highlander, with 90,000 miles. They had told me for a couple of years that it was getting low, but finally at 57% they replaced it. I know my car is younger, but......thought I would share.
  • tsotsitsotsi Member Posts: 98
    I kind of admire people brave enough to keep a battery until it completely quits. Batteries are so cheap, I just get a new one for my car every 3 years. It would seem to be $80 well spent -- less than $30 a year to be (almost) sure my car will start when I want it to.
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