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Toyota Highlander Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Rebuilt calipers are so inexpensive that rebuilding yours, even DIY, is not justified.

    If you're stuck for coins then replace the brake pads, depress/apply the piston back and forth into the caliper several times, and wait and see if it sticks again.

    But be sure to thoroughly clean and lubricate the caliper guides/slides/pins also.
  • worthfloridaworthflorida Member Posts: 23
    The previous message was correct until I looked up the price of rebuilt calipers at autozone.com. For the highlander it is $60 and for my 2002 Astro they're $16. There no listing for a rebuilt kit (front) at the Autozone site but they might be available elsewhere. If you never have done one before, rebuilding them at first time can be intimidating and to really really make it easy a small air compressor is handy to force out the piston from the caliper. All in all it is better to buy a rebuilt. I've done both and here is a problem that is hard to correct. Most of the time a stuck or hung up caliper is cause by corrosion. The rubber boot or seal around the top ring of the piston is probably crack allowing water to get behind it there by causing some corrosion on the surface of the piston. The corrosion or rust gets between the piston and the O-ring of the calliper and it will build up so the piston cannot be pushed back by the back pressure after you take your foot off the break pedal. You can remove the rust with a emery cloth (not sand paper) or steel wool to polish it up but from my expierence this area on the piston will always rust again. A remanufactured unit will polish the pistons far better or replace the piston and clean up the caliper bore.
  • rl newbierl newbie Member Posts: 17
    I have tried several different phones with my 2009 Highlanger (w/NAV) and the Bluetooth connection quality is pretty bad.

    If you have used a Bluetooth phone and have the NAV, would you please let me know if you too have people complaining about the connection or if it is working fine for you.

    I need some ammo if I'm gonna insist that mine is defective and needs repair.

    Thanks in advance.
  • shagnatshagnat Member Posts: 78
    I have an '03 Highlander Limited V6 FWD w/50+K miles. Love it, drives like new, no odd sounds, no rattles, no squeaks, no wind noise, NO problems at all. I finally replaced my OE battery last week after 6.5 yrs and discovered only one cell was bad. Since I too didn't want to take the chance of having a dead battery, I had the dealer install the same OE battery. Who can argue with 6.5 yrs on an OE battery? And it was still working :)
    Tires, another story. The OE tires suck!!! Even the tire guy at Sams wouldn't sell me a set he had in stock. Ordered a set of Michelin's (don't remember which ones), they have ~15K on them and look almost new. I rotate them twice a year (only drive ~8K/yr now that I'm retired.
    I bought a Hyundai Azera 2008 w/25K miles just a month ago and wish I had bought another Highlander, but, didn't want 2 of them in the family just for the sake of not having 2 in the family :)
    I love my Highlander and cannot convience my wife to give it back and her drive the Azera.
  • mdhuttonmdhutton Member Posts: 195
    I have an '08 Highlander w/NAV and a Verizon Wireless Blackberry Storm smart phone. The only comments I've had are that I sound like I'm a long way away from the mic (near the homelink buttons on the ceiling console.) If I make a concerted effort to inflect my voice that way during conversations, it's much better.

    FWIW....
  • shagnatshagnat Member Posts: 78
    I've had 3 portable GPSs and 5 or 6 different phones and according to my wife, they all sound like you're far away and the mic pics up all the road noise too...... can't speak for any factory or indash units.
  • phrosutphrosut Member Posts: 122
    I had the same annoying rattle (closer to a "buzz" IMO) on our '03. On a very long trip I was able to finally figure it out:

    When it starts, use your fingers to lightly press on the plastic piece(s) on the rear of the steering wheel at the bottom. That is, on the bottom of the wheel, when the noise is happening, lightly pull the bottom of the wheel backing toward you.

    Learning what made the noise was the hard part.

    I plan on some little dabs of clear silicone at the edge of the wheel and the backing plate, maybe 4, and stuffiing some foam rubber between that backing plate and the steering column while the silicone cures.

    Unless someone suggests a better idea.

    Phil
  • edhedh Member Posts: 246
    When toyota "tested" the design they must have missed that. I have several things on my 04 that tells me they quit testing the stuff.
    Like the springs in the remote are too weak, they are set off by keys in your pocket
  • tsotsitsotsi Member Posts: 98
    Somebody asked about this earlier, but I didn't see a good answer. I tried buying an LED bulb to replace the stock backup bulb on my '05 Highlander, but it was dimmer than the stock bulb. Has anybody found a bulb -- either standard or LED -- that gives better light when backing up? If so, I would like the exact name so I can get one. Thanks.
  • shagnatshagnat Member Posts: 78
    Yeah, I have found the stock backup lights to be almost useless. It may tell people behinid you that you're in reverse, but, sure doesn't illuminate very well for the driver.
  • edhedh Member Posts: 246
    Its a Toyota boo boo that proves they do not test the cars any more. The back up lights are terrible. And why?? Bad design of the lenses? wires too small to the rear end? wh oknows. Toyota getting like GM.
    who is the next (old) Toyota? Honda? Ford?
  • grahampetersgrahampeters Member Posts: 1,786
    G'day

    The problem is not so much the brightness of teh bulbs as the density of the dark window tint. If you back up using the exterior mirrors, visibility is fine. Trying to do it through the rear window is not.

    You cannot fault Toyota's R&D. They are, by a considerable margin, the world's largest R&D investor spending USD7.6bn last year.

    Cheers

    Graham
  • shagnatshagnat Member Posts: 78
    Oh, I don't blame Toyota at all. I love my Highlander and my other Toyotas prior to the Highlander.

    I usually use my side view mirrors because I'm old, stiff, and cannot twist arouond enough to look out of my back glass....... ain't that a pisser?!
  • worthfloridaworthflorida Member Posts: 23
    Backup lights are to signal others that you are in reverse and not for seeing. The reply that the rear tint is really the cause is correct. Use the side mirrors and turn your head. At one tine backup lights were an option from the factory or the dealer installed for extra $$$ profits. They were never intended to use to illuminate the area. The most used bulb was a 1057 lamp and there was another number before that but I forgot it. Some time in the 1960's (1966-7?) there was a auto safety bill past that is still in force today and the backup lights was one of them. AT the same time the side marker lamps were required.

    So what are parking lights? At one time many cities had laws that if you parked on the street you had to turn on your "parking lights". I see many driving around in fog and just before sunset with parking lights on thinking that they are for driving in dim light.
  • herzogtum71herzogtum71 Member Posts: 470
    Some people drive intentionally with just the parking lights, but In some vehicles the parking lights are the running lights.

    I agree with the others who complain that backing at night in unlit areas is a pain because of the tinted rear windows. If someone knows of a brighter bulb that won't overwhelm the wiring, please post the information.
  • tsotsitsotsi Member Posts: 98
    My Honda Accord has much brighter backup lights. I would like to brighten those on the Highland, but only if I can find bulbs that plug right in and that somebody has tried and found better.

    I agree that it is a minor flaw.
  • shagnatshagnat Member Posts: 78
    It would be great to have brighter backup lights. It's a safety issue IMO.
  • worthfloridaworthflorida Member Posts: 23
    As I stated before I let the manager of the shop decide what needs to be done. Yesterday, I finally got the timing belt changed. Also the water pump and the two outer drive belts. We've know each other for about 9 years and we are part of the coffee group that meets every morning at the Mobil station. He also found that one of the camshaft seals was leaking and he replaced it. For the rear main seal he put in a special oil (his cost $20 a quart) that will usually work. The total bill with tax was $620 and he really make good on the labor hours so the cost was less than normal. Maybe another $100-$200 less. He also used high mileage oil that had additives that will swell seals. I do not think the leak will stop forever and it will probably need the rear seal to be changed out sometime in the future. This repair job I was thinking of try it myself but even the a well seasoned mechanic took more than four hours and the leaking camshaft seal I never have done it before. Beside you be on your driveway and realize that another part is needed and the wife is out with the other car, then what and try to hunt down this type of part.
  • cracoviancracovian Member Posts: 337
    We have 2001 Highlander and we've just discovered that our dealer is stealing and telling lies... There's lots of issues and not enough room to type it all out but the most pressing one is the rusted rotors, thin pads and non-working calipers in the rear.

    My independent mechanic told us the rears are not working at all. Full service (pad and rotor replacement) was done less than two years ago at this dealership (April 2008) and we paid ~$600 for it. I just came back from there and Toyota's service rep said the brakes are working fine (then why are the rotors all rusted out?) but he slipped by saying that the rotors look original until I told him to check service history and then after looking at the vehicle in the back, he confirmed that these are the parts they did indeed install two years ago and everything is perfect now. WTH??? I told him we're going to check part numbers and production dates, so he'd better watch out but he calmly stuck to his guns... Is there a way for anyone to tell if these rotors are from 2001 or 2008? Please help!
  • cracoviancracovian Member Posts: 337
    Our dealer in GA charges $279 for timing and drive belts on 2001. The same service is $450 in IL. Add the water pump (it will last 150K max) and it jumps to the $700-$800 range. It costs ~$600 for a pump alone if it starts leaking later if you only do the timing belt now.
  • bikeman3bikeman3 Member Posts: 85
    How many miles are on the HL and since the rotors were changed? Most people shave their rotors too thin . You should be able to replace pads w/o changing rotors. Toyota rotors on the front are excellent the rear not so much.The reason dealer want to cut rotors is they make money(labor) and they are afraid you'll come back complaing of sqeaking issues. The squeaks usually will go away with wear with the new pads. Talk to your local mechanic and one other person who can look at your HL and give you honest information. It seems the dealer never replaced the rotors 2 years ago. But as I said the rear rotors on Highlanders aren't as good as the front for some reason. I own a 2003 HL with 120000 miles and have had no problems with brakes, other than normal replacement.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    First of all, brake rotors will form a thin film of rust on the pad "scrub" area virtually overnight if the vehicle is left parked after getting them wet. A few days and a rather serious film of rust will form. If we're speaking of rotor rust other than the pad scrub area then that is perfectly normal for 2 year old rotors.

    But.

    Drive just a few miles using the brakes fairly often and the pads should quickly polish the rust away within the scrub area.

    With most vehicles you might drive with the rear brakes fully non functional for days or even weeks and not notice. Normally the front brakes contribute 70-80% of the braking effort. That's the primary reason rear brake pads and rotors seem substandard in comparison to the fronts.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    "..water pump (it will last 150K max)..."

    And you know this to be factual information..??

    How..??

    Twenty years ago I would have agreed, but not today.
  • cracoviancracovian Member Posts: 337
    The rotors are rusted away... The car is driven every day. The dealership is miles away, he took off the wheels and there's crud everywhere but he says it's perfect. I already know these guys are thieves; I just wonder if there's a production date on these parts anywhere...
  • cracoviancracovian Member Posts: 337
    You've got to be kidding me... I'm glad you would have agreed with me 20 years ago and you have two decades of factual information yourself. Good luck to ya.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    I've never pretended to have factual information regarding an automotive water pump's usefull life, just life's experience and book learn'n.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Stamped production date might be meaningless since perfectly good new rotors could have been setting on the stock shelf for years and years.

    "...crud everywhere.."

    The only working part of your brake rotors is the pad braking "scrub" surface, the rest can be covered with dirt, mud, rust, and it would have no adverse effect. At least once a year I remove my wheels and throughly wash/clean the wheel itself, especially inside the rim, but to my knowledge I have never seen a brake rotor so "cruded" up that it needed my attention.
  • tsotsitsotsi Member Posts: 98
    One reason we have this forum is to discuss some of the imperfections in our Highlanders. The fact that they are so good makes it frustrating that the company doesn't fix the imperfections more quickly.

    The most frustrating flaw in my Highlander, and apparently many others, is the lack of a lock washer or at least thread locking compound on the heat control knob. I read again and again that people's heat controls stopped working . . . all because the nut came loose. It went on for many years . . . that is unnecessary and stupid.

    Also, I think the dim backup light is enough of a flaw to get annoyed about. The reality is that my windows are tinted and that it rains sometime, cutting down the visibility. Brighter backup lights would make my Highlander better. I will check them before buying my next Toyota and see if the dealer can come up with a fix in order to sell me a car.

    Then there are Toyota dealers. Toyota should be able to keep them from ripping customers off with their bogus "required repairs" of brakes and the unnecessary service items like flushes and cleaning.

    I would be driving a Highlander Hybrid now if Toyota hadn't refused to sell me the base model at the advertised price and hadn't used the hybrid system to improve acceleration instead of fuel economy.

    Guess I am writing this in the hope that somebody at Toyota reads it and will do a little better with the things we notice and complain about. The things I have mentioned wouldn't cost anything significant . . . so why weren't they fixed?
  • edhedh Member Posts: 246
    I think they have quit testing them in their rush to cut corners.

    Someone should have noticed the bad backup lights, or the door wind noise, or the remote control that has such soft button springs that the keys in your pants pocket sets off the lock or unlock actions.
    Or the adjustable steering wheel that does not move very much

    the real question is, who is the next Toyota? Honda? Ford?
  • jgriesenjgriesen Member Posts: 2
    Regarding bearing assemblies, my 2004 V6 AWD Highlander developed noise at 120,000 mostly easy freeway miles. Both assemblies on the drivers side were bad. That was spring of 2009. Another 25k on the odometer, and at least one more going bad now. Found a local shop that will replace for $300 apiece, the dealer wanted twice that.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    before buying my next Toyota

    You just answered your own question. These issues aren't fixed because Toyota is good enough to get you back and buy another Toyota. Yes, I agree, they aren't perfect. No manufacturer is.
  • edhedh Member Posts: 246
    BAckup lights are there to signal others??? Total crax, my nissan has nice bright backup lights thru the tint or thru the side mirrors. Highlanders have a backup light issue ---period.
  • abby1313abby1313 Member Posts: 20
    My knob only partially worked; had to push on it to get it to work. I tightened the nut referenced in this forum and the knob worked temporarily. I was in the process of finding someone to look at soldering wires as suggested here when I re-checked the nut...loose again. So I tightened the nut and put fingernail polish (as suggested in postings on your tundra link above) on it to keep it tight. So far so good! I think I caught it before my wires were damaged. And yes, when I'd mentioned it to Toyota, they signed me up for a $40 diagnostic which I refused and came back to this forum to look for a different solution. Thanks for the info!
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Kia.
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    The sunroof on my wife's 2004 Highlander no longer closes automatically when the switch is pushed. The way it used to work was after the switch was pushed,you could release the switch and the roof would go to the open or closed position. Now you have to hold the switch until the roof closes. Anyone else had this problem? Is it just the switch or is there a sensor that has failed?

    FWIW, I had the same problem on my Camry after only 3 years. Never bothered to fix it but my wife is going to insist that it be fixed, regardless of cost.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Lubricate the sunroof runner/rails.
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    I guess that can't hurt but I don't think that's the problem. It moves fine but you just have to hold the switch in the on position until it closes or opens fully.
  • jeff141jeff141 Member Posts: 1
    It sounds like your sunroof has lost it's memory. I don't have my owners manual with me but check that to see if it has the procedure to have the memory restored. If not I'm sure the dealer or a google search should be able to provide. Good luck.
  • bdymentbdyment Member Posts: 573
    If you have an owner's manual look up normalization of the sun roof. This process sets up the control of the roof so it closes properly. I had to do the normalization process twice on my 2004. Once when I purchased it-- the dealer didn't have a clue how to get the roof operating correctly-- and once after about a year. It just stopped working correctly. Hope this helps.
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    It sounds like your sunroof has lost it's memory.

    That was it. I had changed the battery last month and hadn't used the sunroof until a couple weeks ago when we got to Florida. It took 3 tries but the normalization process worked as described once we did it right.
  • ryan99ryan99 Member Posts: 46
    Toyota has quirky issues that are annoying. This is a step up from the downright defective GM 3.1 liter cars I have owned. We have a 2004 highlander. Its a great vehicle now that i normalized the sunroof and added a lock washer to the temp control knob...( which has been the only quick fix to work for me on that issue) I also have a small little clunk in the steering wheel which i figure is the steering knuckle everyone complains about...I'm not in a hurry to fix it and it never seems to get worse and my wife doesn"t even notice it. We had a 99 camry that was just as quirky. The car was running well at 200 k when we got rid of it, but it always seemed to have some strange issue...It made more sense to me when we got the Highlander and its quirks...Now I just call these quirks a "Toyota thing"
  • edhedh Member Posts: 246
    the steering wheel thing may be need for replacement/greasing of the intermediate shaft
  • ryan99ryan99 Member Posts: 46
    Any idea of the greasing procedure? What type of grease and greasing points?
    Thank You
  • shagnatshagnat Member Posts: 78
    I have an '03 Highlander and only time I had any noise was when the injectors had an issue and had it fixed under warranty. Other than that my only "thing" is in colder weather, say below 50*, the rear hydraulics don't lift the tailgate very well. It's not a big deal and never had anything done about it.
    It rides like it was new and has nothing else going on with it. It's quieter and smoother than the Hyundai Azera Limited I just bought 1 month ago.
  • adwwwadwww Member Posts: 1
    What was the outcome of this issue? My Highlander is also consuming a lot of oil and the dealership is now recommending the same parts replacement.
  • clemwizclemwiz Member Posts: 1
    My 2001 Highlander has 75k miles and the rear main is also leaking! Not only that, it uses quite a bit of oil when on the highway. I don't think the 2 are connected but not for sure either. NOT HAPPY w/ Toyota!
    WON'T be buying another one that is for sure!!
  • patreeziapatreezia Member Posts: 3
    I've been having a bad time with my Highlander, also. It's a 2002 Limited. 14 months ago, at 61K miles, it started leaking transmission fluid, plus required a new power steering (?) pump. That cost over $2000, and Toyota "helped" by paying only 10% of that repair bill. Now, at 74K miles, it has developed ANOTHER transmission leak plus they say it's using oil too fast. This has not been the happy experience I expected of Toyota. It's too bad,too, because I really enjoy driving the Highlander. Would have bought a new one if not for these bad experiences. Maybe Toyota really isn't living up to its quality control reputation anymore. They certainly haven't been interested in taking good care of this loyal customer.
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    I also have a small little clunk in the steering wheel which i figure is the steering knuckle everyone complains about.

    I have the same thing in my 2005 Camry but the 2004 Highlander is ok. I wasn't aware of any complaints on this issue.
  • edhedh Member Posts: 246
    there was a recall on the CAmry I think and dealers replaced the intermediate shaft under warranty on my 04 highlander
  • 01accordlx01accordlx Member Posts: 14
    I am looking to purchase a used 2006 Highlander. Went to check one out today but I did not get too far into the process before I saw what looked like rust on the trim around the two side rear windows. It was only on the trim and was worse on the driver's side. I have seen posts in other forums about "environmental fallout". It has 42000 miles on it and has a "clean" Carfax report. It originated in Florida and is now in North Carolina. Have any Highlander owners out there noticed anything like this? My first inclination was to forget about the car altogether and move on. Hope someone out there knows what I am talking about! Thanks!
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