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Comments
Having owned a lot of different vehicles, both american and imports, they all have had the noise/wind "wupping" sound when the rear windows are down. And as "7332high" stated, the answer is to equalize the press by lowering a front window a little or open/tilt the sun roof. I guess I never gave it second thought the first it happen in my Highlander, but I can sure see your point of view and your concern.
Best regards,
Philip
Thanks for taking the time to post a message and share your experience. For other readers, I just would like to add another comment. Prior to purchase HL, I owned and still own 91 Ford Explorer. Since I didn't have a power window with my explorer, I never had opportunity to drive my rear windows only. That meant, I had to open the rear passenger doors and manually roll down the windows. Well, I experimented yesterday for the first time in 10 years, and it did not make any noise. And I rode in with my coworker today who who owns 99 Nissan PathFinder. It did not have that problem. I guess what I'm trying to say is that the noise problem is very severe with HL case and I would like people to be informed before considering buying a HL. Thanks again for your message.
Regards,
Keepyung
fix? It is coming from the sun roof. We don't have a spoiler.
Dean
Thank you, Polly. If you are not embarrassed, by being corrected by a
client, and wish to have useful info for future inquirers, read on. I might
add that I also received erroneous info from Radioshack via E-mail. If you
have access to a Radioshack catalog, that will be helpful. First of all,
after reading on the Homelink web site how to program a security gate (and
it is mentioned also home lighting), it seemed to me that Homelink should
recognize signals from a keychain type transmitter. Here is my setup, which
works from Homelink: Radioshack #61-2663 keychain remote system; Radioshack
#980-0194 3-way wall switch module. Both set to House code "I", number 5.
Used Homelink middle button for the on signal, and the right button for the
off signal. WORKS GREAT!! The left button is used for the garage door
opener. Regards, and have a great fourth. Dean B.
Smith
From:
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2001 10:29 AM
Subject: Re: HomeLink Contact Us Message
> Dear Mr. Smith,
>
> Thank you for visiting the website and for your lighting inquiry.
>
> Currently, our Vehicle Interface is the only component that will activate
> RadioShack or X-10 brand lighting modules. Without this unit, HomeLink
> will not activate them
One other thing: my furnace motor(running A/C) interfered with transmission over house wiring, so control worked intermittently. I was also able to solve that problem, and will advise if necessary. You have to be comfortable with working with wiring.
Good luck! Feel free to E-mail me if you have questions or problems.
Dean
My wife and I enjoy driving with the rear windows down in summer, as we are prefer that to air conditioning if it is not too hot. After reading the posts here about the noise driving that way, we thought perhaps we should check it out during our next test drive. I thought, hey, it couldn't be THAT bad. However, when we tried it, we couldn't believe how deafening it was! Anyway, this is one of the reasons she wants to wait for a 2002, in hopes it is fixed. She said there is something wrong with the design, and would not want a Highlander until it's fixed. I told her it really was more of the result of the overall shape and aerodynamics of the vehicle, and probably it will be the same in 2002. Also, most people do not care about this idiosyncrasy, and can be minimzed by adjusting front and rear window open positions. (Or eliminated altogether by not driving that way!) In the end, we'll probably buy one whether it's fixed or not, but it was still quite annoying.
Anyway, one negative aspect of an otherwise fine vehicle!
That being said, I think (my guess) that what is actually happening (that is, what is responsible for the thud thud thud) is the result of the air pressure changing rapidly (continuously) inside the vehicle. The thudding noise is caused by your tempatic membrane (sp?) in your ear reacting violently to the change in pressure. (Because I know someone is going to point this out, I will state that I know that all sound is registered by the brain in this fashion. (In combination with the bones in your ear.) However the problem in the Highlanders is most likely because of extreme movement of the membrane in the ear to the point that causes pain.) To illustrate my point, has anyone noticed that sometimes when you drive with the moonroof open and then close it, your ears feel plugged because of the air pressure change? (Assume your windows are also closed. The air pressure change feels like you were on an airplane.) I think there is a much higher pressure inside the vehicle while it is moving and thus this problem presents itself.
We all want a quiet ride when we drive... Toyota did a fairly good job of sealing the vehicle (questionable door seals though) and thusly keeping the air pressure high inside. I think that if the vehicle wasn't so "sealed" there would be a lot less of this noise.
Anyone have an official or scientific explanation they'd like to offer?
=-Personna1->
I agree with you on your explanation on what's happening. We didn't experience just the noise, but also a moderately painful sensation in our ears. Anyway, here is my "backyard mechanic's" potential fix for this problem. That would be some sort of relief in the very rear of the vehicle to allow for a controlled flow of the air in the interior. (Didn't GM have something they called "flow-thru ventilation"?) Perhaps this already is designed into the Highlander, and all vehicles, but only enough for the volume of air associated with the heater or air conditioning. A design engineer might laugh at this, saying the amount and variation of air rushing into open rear windows is way too much to design a relief path for.
...just my 2 cents.
Can anyone tell me about the recall. I received a notice that the master cylinder cap needed to be checked. Is this something I need to deal with ASAP??? Or can I wait 2 weeks till my oil change (3months already!!!)Thanks for your help.
1. EXPOSED FAN. SOMEONE MENTIONED EARLIER THAT MAYBE IT DIDN'T HAVE ONE WELL IT DOES. IT JUST KEEPS ON FALLING OFF.
2. AIR TEMPETURE TO WARM WHEN THE A/C IS ON, JUST LIKE DESCRIBED BEFORE. YOU CAN TELL THE DIFFERENCE RIGHT AWAY AFTER YOU PUT IT ON OR ADJUST IT, TO FIT CORRECTLY.
3. THE GLOVE BOX COMPARTMENT DOES NOT CLOSES CORRECLTY IT RATTLES, IT SOUNDS LIKE A LOT OF THE SOUNDS DISCRIBED BY OTHER MEMBERS.
IT IS VERY EASY TO PUT IT BACK IT JUST CLIPS ON BUT THE PROBLEM IS THAT IT KEEPS ON HAPPENING ALL THE TIME. AND THIS THREE PROBLEMS ARE CONSISTANT EVRY TIME THIS HAPPENS.
HOW TO CHECK. OPEN THE GLOVE BOX. PRESS IT FROM THE SIDES AND PULL IT THAT WAY YOU ARE ABLE TO OPEN IT A LOT MORE. IT STILL WON'T GIVE YOU ENOUGH ROOM BUT I'LL GIVE YOU ENOUGH TO CHECK.
GOOD LUCK
P.S. I READ SOMEWHERE THAT SOME PEOPLE TOUGH IT DIDN'T HAVE A COVER IF YOU COULD PASS THIS INFORMATION TO THEM
THANKS
You might as well give a call to their insurance company if you can and see how far you can take it...just seek what you think is fair in compensation. You might even consider that if the main paint (color part) is still in good shape, perhaps the interior panel can be removed and the "dimple" gently hammered out. Then the new finishing on the outside can be applied. I'm no expert at this at all, so take it for what it's worth. I would also recommend that you speak with the dealer body shop as they are most familiar with the characteristics of metal on Toyotas (thickness, ease of shaping it, etc). Also, maybe you can call an independent company like "dent removers" or "dent lifters" who specialize in paintless body repair and dent removal. Just my two cents worth. Stay calm and stay persistent. Good luck.
Wally
Andre
How so, you ask? One example - I was entering the pickup lane at a grocery store the other day, and was waiting for an elderly couple to cross in front of me. My brake pedal was on the floor. If the car began to creep, or I somehow got a little push, there wouldn't have been any more brake to use. I don't consider that normal or acceptable brake operation.
So - the 'fix' took about 20 minutes. I'm skeptical that a thorough brake bleed could be done in that period. The shop manual has three sections in the brake bleed explanation: Master Cylinder (requires air cleaner removal); ABS and Traction Actuator (requires Special Service Tool); and brake lines. Not sure whether the Master Cylinder part needs to be done, 'cause the manual says "If Master Cylinder has been disassembled or if the reservoir becomes empty, bleed the air from the Master Cylinder.' Since the problem requiring the recall had to do with the Master Cylinder, it seems it should be bled.
I'm going to check all these locations to see if it appears they've been touched.
Cliffy or other Toyota persons, do you have any comments?
I hope this was the obvious answer you were looking for.
1. Maybe a bad compressor or at least a bad switch/fuse to the compressor. This might explain why the air is cooler on the passenger's side more than the driver's. Since the interior's cold air originates from the blower (passenger's side), maybe it just doesn't last or maintain as well in the travel across the dash to the driver's side.
2. Maybe low level of freon in the system.
3. Maybe one or more faulty servos controlling the duct airflow. Our Limited with the auto a/c on has a servo which lets out a faint hiss as it's adjusting either the fan speed or the temp (or both). Yes, I know you don't have a Limited, but you probably do still have a servo or two in the a/c controls.
4. Maybe a partially detached piece of ductwork.
I'll let you know if I come up with anything else. Please notice that my suggestions all start with the word "Maybe". I'm not a mechanic but I'm just trying to apply some logic to the symptoms. Keep us informed. Good luck.
If the phone is placed too close to the sound system, then it can cause intermittent clicks and noises to be emitted by the speakers.
I have an LS400 and I can't put my cellphone anywhere near the console without getting "ticking" sounds from the sound system. I keep it in the door pocket now.
Try moving your phone or turning it off and see if it makes a difference.
Hate to think what cell phones are doing to our brains!!!
Hope this helps.
I'm the proud new owner of a Highlander V6 2WD WITHOUT the Limited Package. I am interested in upgrading the system to sound a bit more like the "premium" system as in the Limited package. I would like to replace the speakers only (I think most of the electronics are the same w/the Premium) and was wondering if anyone knew the model no. of the JBL's Toyota uses or if there's a good, reasonably priced equivalent? Would like to find speakers that fit without any adapters or cutting.
Please advise.
Thanks in advance for your reply!!
PS: No problems so far w/the SUV, maybe because I have about 40 miles on the Odometer!!
=-Personna1->