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She says I could get a lower quote if I agreed to the financing and that I could always pay off the bank after the deal. And that there would be no closing costs (early payoff) either.
I smell a rat, so wanted to get some thoughts on this.
Thanks.
Bought mine from Fremont. Got the Graphite pearl
19,200
~2K tax & licenses (8.75% tax ~238 DMV fees)
370 (dealer oil change/tire rotation/20 point inspection for 5yrs/60K miles)
21,500 OTD (also got the wheel locks for free) + dealer was ready to offer Honda Care for $1000 (80k/6yrs)
Overall buying experience was great. No pressure or deception on their part. Great Value!! in my openion
Thank everyone for their help, and this Forum has helped me tremendoulsy.
I am planning to buy a 2005 Honda Accord LX/EX. (area Stamford)
As dealers are clearing stock, they have offered me 15k for an LX. Is this a good price?
Now I am planning to look out for 2005 EX. Whats the best price I should look for? They gave me an offer of 20.5 K.
Thanks
Raj
-Nick
Silver Exterior / Black interior
Price: ............$19,000
Tire Fee: ...........$8.75
Doc. Fee: ..........$45.00
8.5% tax: .......$1,571.21
DMV (Est): ........$187.00
----------------------------------
TOTAL: ............$20,811
------------------------------------
"Documentation fee.........398"
Avoid Leith Honda in Raleigh -- go to Cary Autopark Honda instead (relatively better people, relatively better service). Take note of the use of the word "relatively". :-) Cary Autopark Honda also charges $398 for documentation fee.
ramida
had 5mi on the odo, but already had the mystery 'paint and cloth protection', wheel/mud guards, fenderwell trim, wheel locks, and tint (dealer wanted well over $1k for all of his dealer options).
got the car for $19,409 with on OTD price of $20,850
My question is 2 fold.
1. What is the target price I should be looking for for these 2 models? Also, what should the fees be roughly buying versus leasing? THank you.
2. If I were to lease, what should I look for as far as:
MSRP + Dest -
Selling Price -
Residual Value -
Money Factor -
Target Lease Payment for 48 mos/12k -
Any other information I should be concerned about?
Thank you.
Kevin
Leather and sunroof are standard on the EX V6.
I am in Houston-TX and ready to buy a new 06 Accord SE/AT. I want to know the best deal in town. Please share your info if you can.
Thanks in advance
John
I am lookign exactly for the same car but not getting the quote u got. i got a deal for LX V6 06 Accord as 23,300. Please let me kno where u got this deal from?
The least quote so far i got for a Accord LX V6 is 23100 inlcuding destination charge (without TTL ). What is the least quote u ppl have got for an Accord EX V6 or LX V6 and from where? I am in Dallas/ ft worth area...pls help if u can. ASAP( i m looking to buy in the commign week)
The starting price was $1000 under invoice ($23803), but the dealers were real jerks with their protection packages (wheel locks, mud guards, etc) they wanted $1995 for it. I laughed, and laughed at them. Beware of these packages. They typically only cost the dealer $150 to $200, but they charge $1500 to $2000 for it. Do your homework on the accessories as well as the car, that is where they try to stick it to you. Also skip the extended warranty stuff, It's all 100% dealer profit.
My final before TT&L price was $25,135, which included wheel locks, mud guards, rear deck lid spoiler, and window tinting. Which is $332 over invoice but with all those accessories. I can sleep at night paying that.
...you got that right. During purchase of HAV-6 EX coupe 6M this summer, dealer pushed hard (sales - finance tag team) for EW.............. starting at $2800 (then special today only $1800).....
...got EW online from one of the four most popular sources seen right on this very forum: $583.50........
..ez..
thanks.
Thanks.
$260(tint)
$50 (Wheel locks)
$95 (mud guards)
$904 total for accessories
That would make my deal of $25,135-$904=$24,563, or about $572 below invoice of $24,803.
I'm going to pick up a trunk cargo tray this week for $100-20% at the honda parts counter. My wife has alreay started spliing things in the trunk, thankfully it was only water.
Any info would be great. Thanks.
but..I am still trying to figure out what I SHOULD be paying for this car...
2006 Accord EX v6 or LX v6. Factory installed options.
What is the range or price I should be looking for when buying this car? Thank you ...please HELP!!! I need to buy a car Saturday but I dont want to get screwed...
Again, it's what they charge you, it's not what you end up negotiating for Doc Fee, 'cause Doc Fee is sacred, it's like sales tax.... It's a given... Written in the Old Testament.
Problem is, it's really a SCAM, which too many times (or in some specific states?) it's an "elegant" way to make extra money.
So, my question is, is there a CAP on Doc Fee in some states? In Illinois it's always been $53-$55, but is that regulated by STATE LAWS? Has anybody paid more than that in IL?
I know in Florida -- the sky is limit. $300-$400-$500... Jeb Bush must own a few car dealerships there...
I first got the $1000 under invoice no nonsense quote from College Park Honda Internet sales dept. They told me to bring in the internet quote inorder for them to honor it. I also called to see if their 0% financing they advertise each week was available at the price, which they told me yes on the phone.
When I showed up to buy the car, their no nonsense quote did not include the $1995.00 protection package (wheel lock and mud flaps), and they said the financing was only for people who pay full MSRP or higher? College Park was the classic case of bait and switch, they will say anything just to get you in the door, then it's a whole new ball game.
I financed the car thru a car loan from Capital One, I got a quote from them thru lendingtree.com. My rate was 5.65% for 60 mo. or 5.39 for 36mo.
Honda Financing only approved me for 5.64% so i stuck with my Capital One rate even though it was a 0.01% higher.
I just got a quote for $22,000 OTD. I feel like i can do better but i don't know. Will this be any cheaper next month ??? also anyone from my area bought 06 accord pls share your price and recommendation.. :);)
Thank you \(^_^}/
I noticed I can buy the SE couple for about $17,500 OTD--this is their basic LX coupe with a wheel upgrade and spoiler.
This is about $1,000 below invoice and equal to Edmunds TMV.
I understand that coupes and MT have lower resale, but this strikes me as an unusual bargain that would give me 10 years of safe and economical use.
Am I missing anything? Hondas hold their value so buying a used one seems crazy.
thanks for any insight
John
-Nick
that's include tax and evrything, that without navigation, what do you think about that price? but my credit history is bad, after they check my credit history they can approve me with 7.94%, i will pay $515.35 for 36 month and is absolutly beautiful that car.
You need to understand that this 2005 model, although new, is already one-year old! If, for some reason, its actual cash value or fair market value (FMV) needs to be assessed (like when it is declared a total loss after an accident), its depreciated value is way more than the $1000-below-invoice bargain you're getting.
Accidents happen even if you are a safe driver.
ramida
...8/120/0 I'm no help.....
...However: paid about $584 for a 6-year/80k (100 DED).....
(hondacuraworld.com OR 1-888-RAY-LAKS, your call)
...seasons best, ez......
Dealer added options price (parts dept price)
Splash Guards $295 ($93.60)
Wheel Locks $195 ($61.60)
Cargo tray $195 ($110)
So there you have it, there is a huge markup on all dealer added options. I cannot believe that dealers do this when their parts dept is down the hall. I guess people do not bother to check.
That is an excellent point--and frankly one I had not thought of because I plan to keep the car for many years. Here is the important question, at what level do you think an 05 is a good value? For example, would you pay $3,000 more for an 06 for this reason alone?
thanks
John
John
I got quoted for 19.3k for the VP and 21k for the LX OTD.
I am leaning towards the VP unless there is anything the LX has that might lower my insurance.
Are these good deals? Should I have them install an alarm system to lower my insurance or should I go to pep boys/best buy for this? I will not bicker over a hundred here and there. Just want to know if it is ok to take the plunge.
This is my first car and been lurking in these forums for 6 months deciding on tacoma/sonota/camery/civic/accord.
Thanks for all the useful information over the last few months.
That is one tough car to sell. It's a coupe and a five speed too. Nothing wrong with them...great cars, just hard to sell both as new cars and later as used.
Accord LX Special Edition Sedan $21,000 OTD
Accord LX V6 Sedan $23,000 OTD
Thats the lowest price i got on these cars. For the civic paying Exactly around the MSPR price is not worth it. One of my friends bought a 2005 CivicSedan LX 15k OTD (in September) the price is gonna drop for 2006 and thus making atleast $3k downfall in the price just after couple of months. I do say for those who wish to stay under the 20g range should head for an nissan altima for a better package and deal. I considered Scion TC but less resale value (relatively) and less market awareness makes me run away from it.
Any suggestion what should ne done? I want to stay under the 20g range. I HAVE to consider the price is WORTH the car or not? Let me know.
2005 Model -- $19,615
2004 Model -- $17,985
One-year depreciation: $1,630
You may factor in the increase in base price of the newer model, but then in the case of Honda, the newer model, although slightly higher in base price, comes with new features not present in the older model.
Here's a hypothetical situation:
2006 Model -- let's say can be had for $200 below invoice price of $19,000 = $18,800
2005 Model -- let's say can be had for $1,000 below invoice price of $18,500 = $17,500
Price difference is $1,300, which is still lower than the KBB-based depreciation of $1600 shown earlier.
I'll take the newer model every time. Why? Because many car dealers are opportunists and are so damn "smart" selling older cars that a $1000-below-invoice deal is a rare find (except for the higher-end models; EX/V6 with NAV, for instance).
ramida
If the price difference is more than the forecasted one-year depreciation for this model, then it may be a "good" buy. But you also need to consider new features that come with the newer model, if they matter to you. It's your call.
ramida