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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • carquote1carquote1 Member Posts: 25
    I guess the NY market is very different. When I ask for a quote from a dealers website I never get a price until I start talking numbers and even then they are very vague and are close to invoice.
  • rujorujo Member Posts: 137
    Ah - think I just found the "gotcha" in the low SE-V6 quote I reported: "price does not include pre-installed accessories". This dealership puts a $695 "protection package" on each vehicle - so that's a nice little chunk of profit right there. Still not a bad quoted price - but that kind of dealer crap leaves a bad taste in my mouth and tends to send me elsewhere.
  • carquote1carquote1 Member Posts: 25
    what is the "protection package"?
  • rujorujo Member Posts: 137
    "Protection package" included wheel locks, door edge guards and some other stuff I didn't stick around to find out - perhaps mats, trunk liner, etc.
  • carquote1carquote1 Member Posts: 25
    Still not a bad deal,even with the added stuff you don't need. Does anyone know what I should give as my starting offer on 2007 Accord SE V6 Sedan. I don't want to come in way too low, but I know it's easier to come up than to go down ;)
  • mattgg1mattgg1 Member Posts: 191
    jcash2ds -

    Why didn't you post the details of your purchase in this forum? If you would have posted, maybe the person we discussed earlier would have saved some money, since you apparently paid nearly $1000 less than he did.
  • he8833he8833 Member Posts: 52
    Carquote1

    I'm looking @ the SE v6 what I have been doing is anyone that bought the car and posted the breakdown on the boards. I opened up Microsoft word and copied and pasted the post as to what they paid. So I would have a clear picture of what they were able to get the car for......Navigating all those posts is time consuming and its hard to keep track the breakdown etc, You also get an idea what the market is on on the East Coast vs Midwest West etc. Just because you see a great deal on the East coast doesnt mean we can get that here in the Midwest where I live. By now you have proably learned you may need to travel to get the best deal. Even though I'm in the midwest 2 of the best deals I have read about were out of Boston and DC this is since I started reading the boards in Jan 07. If your willing to travel which I belive your out of NY you could take the train or buy a one-way plane tix. I'm guessing the price is cheap out of NY to fly. I will dig up the dealers names if your intrested. In the interim share the offer prices you have gotten so far. Or search the forum for SE v6 using the search function let me know what you find. I will compare it against what I have found
  • bvdj84bvdj84 Member Posts: 1,724
    A while back I was going to trade in my lease for another car, My dealership had told me that I was not in the top tier, therefore I am was being punished and would be forced to pay more on the lease deal. I am 22, and only have American Honda Financial on my credit, but my credit is 680, I do not own a credit card. My dealership quoted that I would have to have 5 lines of credit, or to successfully finish my lease, then I could "might" be on the top tier with Honda. If anyone knows any information on how much more I really should be paying EXTRA, for not being on the Top Tier. Or if this is there way of getting more money. It was weird, the finance guy told me, yes, your approved for $475 for a EX-L or hey if you give me $1000 down, I'll lease it for $404. Who knows whats on their computer screen. So because they don't trust me, I have to pay more? What should I do, I plan to get the 2008 accord this fall. Any help would be great. Thanks :)
  • jcash2dsjcash2ds Member Posts: 29
    Why didn't you post the details of your purchase in this forum? If you would have posted, maybe the person we discussed earlier would have saved some money, since you apparently paid nearly $1000 less than he did.

    To be frank, I don't think someone else's purhcase price depends solely on the price I received my car for. There are thousands of prices listed on the forum...all it takes is a search.
    Back earlier I saw someone pay 19500 OTD, making the car price around 17.9 including destination. Does this mean I could've gotten the car for this price? Not a chance. But I did a search, found a handful of numbers that people were paying, and used that for comparison. I didn't pick the lowest number someone else paid and expect to pay that same amount.
    There were plenty of other ways to gauge the quotes I was given.

    That person is happy with his purhcase, so let it be.
  • mattgg1mattgg1 Member Posts: 191
    jcash2ds -

    I think you're missing my point...why didn't you post the detail of your purchase in this forum?

    Why participate in a PRICES PAID forum, and use the information that others provide, then not post the price you paid for your Accord?
  • jcash2dsjcash2ds Member Posts: 29
    jcash2ds -

    I think you're missing my point...why didn't you post the detail of your purchase in this forum?

    Why participate in a PRICES PAID forum, and use the information that others provide, then not post the price you paid for your Accord?


    So am I correct to assume, based on your response, that only the people who post prices are the ones allowed to purchase an Accord? :P

    two way street: i don't see your price anywhere. WHy is that? Because you purchased a car last year?
    Well, I purhcased a car last year, too. Prices were different at that time...even posting my own price would not have 'helped' him get a better price.

    I don't know why you are so concerned about my own numbers...but if it will satisfy you, I didn't receive my car in a conventional method. I don't have exact figures to tell you...I'm just guesstimating my price was around that number since I was not present at the time of the transaction.
    Does this complete your interrogation?
  • chetanrchetanr Member Posts: 6
    Finally purchased an Accord..

    Went for the 2007 VP Auto and was

    16600 including destination..TTL and Doc fees all included
    came to about 17350 OTD

    Got Mudguards and Pinstripes free..thats all

    Thanks to the Forum for all the info provided

    My suggestion for others who can wait is to hang in till the last of the month and you will see prices of 2000 below invoice
  • pegasus17pegasus17 Member Posts: 536
    Last month my local Ohio dealer was asking:
    2007 Honda Accord Sedan SE V6 AT MSRP - $23,945 ... Your Price - $20,552
    2007 Honda Accord Sedan SE AT MSRP - $22,220 ... Your Price - $18,994
    I think you could start 500 under those quotes. Good luck.
  • stevehechtstevehecht Member Posts: 96
    Don't know about the I4 quote, but I agree with pegasus about the V6. I hope that price includes destination and dealer fees. I paid $21.1K including all that in 11/06.
  • carquote1carquote1 Member Posts: 25
    I'm currently dealing with a dealer now who is telling me:

    "I am holding actual invoice for an 07 Accord SE V6. It reads as follows:

    Invoice cost: $21,159.85
    Destination Charge: $595.00

    Sub-Total: $21754.85

    HDAG(advertising fee) : $250.00

    Total: $22,004.85

    Now the hold back is 3% of MSRP($23,350.00) for $700.50, plus the $750 Dealer cash that you mentioned for a total of $1450.50.

    If you subtract that from the invoice that would be $20,554.35. What would you consider a fair profit? Bear in mind that holdback barely covers dealer expences. Also bear in mind that Dealer Cash is not a rebate but a bonus for dealers to sell more cars of a paticular model."

    I have read online that Honda ad fees are built into the invoice price. Can anyone confirm this and if this is the case shouldn't the invoice price that was quoted to me already include this fee and not be an additional fee?
  • prugldiprugldi Member Posts: 2
    Looking to buy (not lease) a 2007 Accord sedan EX I4 w/ automatic trans, no navigation, and no extra options in NJ. Carbon Bronze Pearl exterior with Ivory cloth interior. Contacted several dealers in NY and NJ and the best "out-the-door" price I got $22,542. That price is broken down as follows:

    invoice - $20,042
    dest charge - 595
    7% NJ sales tax - 1,445
    doc fee - 199
    registration - 254
    NJ tire fee - 7
    TOTAL PRICE - $22,542

    Is this a good deal? Thinking to pull the trigger but I'm not 100% sold yet. I'm thinking the registration fee is a bit high, but I'd like to get input from you guys on this. I have no car to trade in, and I want to buy with my own financing.

    By my estimate the dealer is making around $300 profit on the $20,042 invoice price alone (when calculating the 3% base MSRP holdback and the $750 factory to dealer incentive). But "true dealer invoice" is always difficult to calculate.

    FYI, this price was from a Honda dealer in central NJ.
  • dwynnedwynne Member Posts: 4,018
    I know some dealers that will sell Accords for invoice, including dealer fees. Some will go a little less. If the dealer you are working with will not offer you a similar deal, you may just need to move on to other dealers that will. With the factory money, this becomes about invoice less dealer money, or close to it.

    The invoice the dealer quoted you looks like what I have seen published for invoice. I don't know about "ad fees", that could be a regional thing - *I* have not seen that tacked on to a Honda invoice around here.

    If they will take invoice - less dealer money + ad fee then take it. $250 on a $22k deal is nothing to get to worked up over. If they can't do that or real close then try elsewhere.

    Dennis
  • colchester47colchester47 Member Posts: 261
    $21,300 for '07 EX-L 4 cyl?.....includes al fees except state sales tax....
  • bobafettbobafett Member Posts: 9
    $21,300 for '07 EX-L 4 cyl?.....includes al fees except state sales tax....

    That's a very good price. Make sure they're not trying to sell you a car that the salesmen have been driving around for the last month.
  • solid1solid1 Member Posts: 11
    What dealership was this at? I am looking for the same deal. So far the best i've come across was 22,250 for the ex-l 4 cyl including 595 dest.
  • zink88zink88 Member Posts: 5
    I am leaning more and more towards purchasing an '07 Accord over an '07 Altima due to the deals being posted in this forum. I have been tracking the prices paid identified here for some time now on a spreadsheet. Thought I might post a summary of what I've gathered for all to see and compare.

    The first column of numbers is the price identified excluding TTL for the specified model. The second column of numbers is the supposed OTD price. Usually the posts only contain one or the other and obviously the OTD price is effected greatly by where you live (taxes in NC are only 3% but are as high as at least 8% in other states). The third column identifies the message number where the identified price is posted, so you can link back to see the details of the post.

    Of course, it isn't always clear from some of the posts if there were additional fees not included in their identified price. I assume no responsibility for any misrepresentation as this is simply an honest attempt to identify prices being paid by others as a comparison to the quotes I receive when I begin email shopping at the end of this month.

    Model Exc TTL OTD Message #

    Accord LX $16,957 $18,000 14493
    Accord LX XXXXXX $18,000 14571
    Accord LX $18,195 XXXXXX 14231
    Accord LX XXXXXX $18,500 14313

    Accord SE XXXXXX $19,500 14447
    Accord SE $18,685 $19,950 14411
    Accord SE XXXXXX $20,000 14448
    Accord SE $18,592 $20,000 14301
    Accord SE $18,795 XXXXXX 14418
    Accord SE $18,840 XXXXXX 14484
    Accord SE $18,973 $20,200 14326
    Accord SE $19,000 XXXXXX 14223
    Accord SE $19,146 $20,441 14293
    Accord SE $19,294 $21,226 14568

    Accord SE V6 $19,759 $21,700 14224
    Accord SE V6 $19,789 XXXXXX 14245
    Accord SE V6 $20,300 XXXXXX 14260
    Accord SE V6 $20,500 XXXXXX 14585
    Accord SE V6 $20,533 XXXXXX 14602
    Accord SE V6 $20,903 $22,260 14219

    Accord EX-L I4 $21,300 XXXXXX 14626
    Accord EX-L I4 $21,550 XXXXXX 14281
    Accord EX-L I4 XXXXXX $22,900 14509
    Accord EX-L I4 $22,241 XXXXXX 14376
    Accord EX-L I4 $22,250 XXXXXX 14362
    Accord EX-L I4 $22,500 XXXXXX 14541
    Accord EX-L I4 $22,570 XXXXXX 14435

    Accord EX-L V6 $22,500? XXXXXX 14535
    Accord EX-L V6 $23,900 XXXXXX 14361

    Hope others find this information useful.
  • rodtxrodtx Member Posts: 7
    Great! Thanks for posting. This will surely help !
  • solid1solid1 Member Posts: 11
    Nice spread sheet. Anyone have any idea what the dealer incentives will look like for May? Just wondering if I should buy this month, or wait and see.
  • ballroomdancerballroomdancer Member Posts: 34
    NAME Confidential DELIVERY DATE APR 7TH 2007

    NEW 2007 HONDA ACCORD 4DR White
    EX-L V-6 with Automatic Transmission and Navigation with options listed below
    ORIGINAL LIST $29,400
    Navigation System Included/Freight $595
    ENG1NE-3.0L DOHC V-6
    TRANSMISSION-5 SPEED AUTOMATIC
    *** DEALER INSTALLED ITEMS **
    SPLASH GUARD SET $138
    WHEEL LOCKS $76
    PINSTRIPE $125
    PAINTED MATCHED MOLDINGS $399
    (Fender well trim and Door edge trim)
    REAR WING SPOILER $587
    FOG LIGHTS $440
    HOOD SWITCH KIT $97
    CARGO NET $61
    Discount $5,033.24
    DEALER PROCESSING CHARGE $100
    COLOR WHITE
    SELLING PRICE $26,984.76
    Paint and Leather Protection $300
    CASH PRICE $27,284.76
    TAX $1,364.24
    New Tags: $175
    TOTAL $26,984.76
    Eight year/120,000 mile “0” Deductible
    EXTENDED SERVICE POLICY $980
    FINAL CASH TOTAL $29.804
    DOWN PAYMENT $29,804
    TRADE-IN: NONE

    TOTAL DOWN PAYMENT $29,804


    IDEALLY, if you can avoid it at all, DO NOT negotiate a trade in. Simplify the entire negotiating and buying experience. Sell it yourself and make a lot more money on the value of your old vehicle. Say you are going to pay cash when looking for the best price! You can always change your mind AFTER you make the deal but the dealership will negotiate the deal to make a lot more money on their behalf by handling the financing for you. If you are going to make your decision to purchase the car on a monthly payment amount (rather than based on YOUR bottom line), THEY GOT YOU! Take out those variables and you’ll save yourself even more money. Better to pre-arrange a loan with your credit union or bank and come prepared to pay cash. Don’t forget that you can put some (maybe all, if your lucky) of your purchase amount onto a credit card (about 20% of the total purchase price) if you like to use credit card point rewards. But pay off your credit card portion of the purchase IMMEDIATELY with the better financing loan you pre-arranged with the bank or credit union. Be disciplined!!!
    #1. Determine EXACTLY what feature and options you want on the vehicle (decide what kind of warranty, road hazard protection, etc. etc. PRIOR to getting any pricing on the vehicle) by going to the dealer that you most preferably want to buy the vehicle from. There is a little back room they want to take you in AFTER you have agreed to the purchase of the vehicle and nail you for all the available things like extended warranty, road hazard policy, etc. Establish a relationship with a particular sales person you want to work with (they are all very friendly, they have to be). Get a complete and comprehensive understanding from that particular individual about the vehicle you want and ALL it's available features to determine exactly what you want on the vehicle. DO NOT ASK FOR A PRICE. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO BUY THE CAR AT THAT TIME. Tell the sales person that you are still doing research but that you will give him/her last right of refusal AFTER you have completed your research as a reward for their time and effort. DO NOT MAKE ANY CONTACT WITH AT LEAST FOUR OTHER LOCAL DEALERS CONCERNING PRICE UNTIL YOU HAVE ESTABLISHED WHAT YOU WANT TO PAY FOR THE CAR (not what THEY want you to pay for the car).
    #2. Type up a comprehensive check list of EVERYTHING (exactly as you want it) on the vehicle (Optional equipment, warranty, road hazard protection etc., etc., etc. as well as a listing of all the standard equipment). Establish one SMALL item (ahead of time) for the final negotiation (mine was the cargo net) that you can get them to “throw in” if they refuse to meet your price (but you won’t care about it if it’s left out). This will be a face saving move for them and satisfaction to you if you pay a little more than you planned but you got an extra car option/feature or service item in return (free oil changes, etc.)
    #3. Use Edmunds.com to research your National Average Invoice Price for the Vehicle and make INTERNTET CONTACT with local dealers. They all have an internet department now. BUT DO NOT MAKE INTERNET CONTACT WITH THE LOCAL DEALER WHOM YOU PREFER TO PURCHASE THE CAR FROM. It will be tempting, but remember, you established a relationship with a salesman at that particular dealership in the beginning and he will work a lot harder for you when you honor your promise. He will not have forgotten you.
    #4. Get the fax numbers for as many dealers as possible (both long distance and local).
    #5. AFTER you get an email stating the name of the "internet sales" person who has been assigned to you, FAX your personal type written and prepared “request for a quote” sheet to the attention of that individual with a personal hand written note at the top, thanking them for their response and request that they fill out your quote sheet and fax it back to you. Make them understand that they must fax to you. DO NOT ANSWER THE PHONE. Always communicate in written form and by fax until YOU are prepared to speak with them.
    #6. If they FAX back an incomplete fax sheet then fax another one back to them with a handwritten personal note thanking them for their response but indicating that you cannot consider their quote unless all the requested information is properly listed. Example: Make sure they have checked marked (or initialed) on the line next to all of your options (standard equipment does not need to be check marked but be certain you know in advance what is standard, what is optional and what is available equipment). Have lines on your quote sheet for them to fill in the pricing next to “OUT THE DOOR” vehicle price WITH accessory package and selected available features. That dollar number should include TAX, TAGS, LICENSE as well as any and ALL miscellaneous charges. SAMPLE PROVIDED BELOW FOR COPY AND PASTE
    #7. Call the dealers who faxed you back and tell them what price you are looking for (about $1,000 to $1,500 LESS than the lowest quote you have been able to establish during your discovery process). You will sacrifice some dealership relationships during your discovery process but you don’t want it to be your preferred final dealer or any of the other possible back up local dealers in your area.
    #8. When you are finally ready, fax a final quote to the dealership that you did you’re your initial research with to the attention of the salesman you spent all that time with and tell them exactly the price you are looking for (make it for about $500 less that you feel you should pay based on all the other quotes you have collected and worked the price down). Do not show them any of the other quotes that you received. You only got those quotes so you could establish that “magic number” in your mind. If you do show them other dealer quotes (no matter how tempting it is) then they will conclude that you are on a shopping expedition and are not a serious buyer. They will not respond to you favorably because they think you are going to show their quote to someone else. YOU HAVE TO SHOW THEM YOU
  • ballroomdancerballroomdancer Member Posts: 34
    YOU HAVE TO SHOW THEM YOU ARE A SERIOUS BUYER AND ARE PREPARED TO BUY NOW, NOW, NOW. Set a deadline -VERY IMPORTANT: Give them a specific date and time you will be there to purchase the car IF they can meet your offer. Say you will even put as much of the purchase price on a credit card (NOW) to hold the vehicle until your appointed time by meeting your offer NOW (they won’t take it but it reinforces in their mind that you are a serious buyer and are ready to buy the car from them. They will be more apt to do everything to earn your business and give you their undivided attention once you get there. You want them so convinced that you are going to buy the car that they will be looking out the window for your arrival. But they will appear cool and calm when you get there and so should you. Inside, they are sweating (and you probably are too). Don’t be surprised that contrary to everything that was said or promised on the phone, that they come back with a counter offer about five hundred dollars or more than what was agreed over the phone . . . but that’s OK. They just wanted to get you in there thinking that they would be in a stronger position to sell you the car at THEIR price once they actually got you there. Remember, you did all your research BEFORE you went to the dealership (bring it with you in a very large packet to set on their desk but DON’T SHOW IT TO THEM. Just let them see it’s there! They will know what it is without you telling them and don’t tell them what it is. You left yourself room to bargain and you are properly prepared. They can see that now. Even if they don’t give you the price you expected (or was promised) once you get there DON’T GET EMOTIONAL AND DON’T BLOW THE DEAL. They are testing your resolve by throwing in a few unexpected things, like “dealer exchange” fees because “the car you wanted isn’t on the lot and had to be driven from another dealership” (HA HA). Or you forgot to be specific about wanting a ZERO deductible warranty on your quote sheet. Something may come up that you overlooked or they themselves even overlooked. THAT’S OK. Be prepared to spend about FOUR HOURS culminating the deal. One hour to negotiate your final price agreement and then three more hours looking at the actual car you are buying, test driving the actual car you are buying, doing the paperwork on the actual car you are buying so you are not RUSHED into getting angry or agreeing with them to add several hundred more dollars to rush the deal because you are running out of time. DO NOT SHOW ANY BUYING SIGNS when you get to the dealer. It’s psychologically comforting for you to know that you have a back-up Dealership offer ready to drive to in case you “blow it” but accept the fact you may pay a few hundred dollars more than what you calculated. Already have in your mind that as long as you buy the vehicle BELOW a certain pre-established price (from your great research) that it is STILL A GREAT DEAL! Remain cool and calm (they will play the “waiting game” with you and make you sit and “hopefully” become impatient so that you will more likely want to give in to their price if you’re in a hurry). POLITELY ASK FOR THE “SALES MANAGER” to come out (the one to whom your salesman has been running back and forth to all this time). POLITELY make your final offer in front of the “SALES MANAGER” and make all final appeals directly to the SALES MANAGER, not the salesman. They won’t want to lose the deal over a few hundred dollars and neither should you. When the time is right and you feel you can’t do any better, then say you will accept their offer IF they “throw in” that smaller item (mine was the cargo net) you secretly held back (and are willing to part with if necessary). They may give it to you and every one is HAPPY! If they don’t, you probably got a hell of a deal anyway, be HAPPY. I’d wish you luck, but I don’t need if you’re prepared as I suggested above.

    SAMPLE QUOTE SHEET
    No cover sheet required. This faxes directly to my home. Just fill in the blanks!

    ►Definitely purchasing this vehicle within the next 15 days
    All considered offers are to be submitted no later than by 5 PM on Friday, April 6th, 2007.

    ►Purchase to be paid in full by Cashiers Check. ►NO FINANCING! No trade-in!

    Dealership Name:___________________________________________________________
    Representative Name: _______________________________________________________

    Representative Desk Phone: __________________________________________________

    Representative Cell Phone: __________________________________________________

    Dealership Fax Number: ____________________________________________________

    Dealership Main Number: ___________________________________________________

    Dealership Address location: _________________________________________________


    *2007 Honda Accord EX-L V-6 Sedan

    ►Exterior Color: White
    ►Interior Leather Color: Tan

    Accessory Features TO BE INCLUDED in the final purchase price!

    Please initial on the line next to each accessory and/or feature below to acknowledge that this accessory and/or feature IS included in the total *vehicle price on page 3 of 3 (otherwise your offer will not be considered). Thank you
    _______Extended Eight year Warranty (120,000 mile Honda Care Service Warranty) Zero Deductable
    _______Paint Protection AND Leather Protection
    _______Rear Wing Spoiler
    _______Fog Lights
    _______Door Edge Guards (white) AND Fenderwell Trim (white)
    _______Splash Guard Set (black)
    _______Pin Stripe (Double black lines without Honda Logo)
    _______Hood Switch Kit (security system)
    _______Wheel Locks

    *Standard AND available features SELECTED to be included with EX-L V-6 Sedan
    _______3.0 –liter, 24-valve SOHC VTEC V-6 engine◄
    _______Standard 5-speed automatic transmission with Grade Logic Control◄
    _______Honda Satellite-Linked Navigation system with voice recognition◄
    120 –watt AM/FM/6 disc in-dash CD changer audio system with 6 speakers (front/rear speakers)
    Premium Carpet Floor Mats (Tan)
    Security System
    Immobilizer Theft-Deterrent System
    XM Satellite Radio
    Home Link remote system
    Remote entry system with power window control
    Variable power-assisted rack-and-pinion steering
    Vehicle Stability Assist (VSA) with traction control
    4-wheel disc brakes with Electronic Brake Distribution (EBD)
    Anti-lock braking system (ABS)
    Brake assist
    17” V-6 Alloy Wheel
    P215/50 R17 93V tires
    Double wishbone front suspension
    Five-link double whish bone rear suspension
    Rear stabilizer bar
    Dual-stage, dual threshold front airbags (SRS)
    Front side airbags with passenger side Occupant Position Detection System (OPDS)
    Side curtain bags
    Variable intermittent windshield wipers
    Heated power side mirrors
    Tilt and telescopic steering column
    Perforated Leather Wrapped Steering Wheel
    Illuminated steering wheel-mounted cruise/audio controls
    Drive-By-Wire throttle system
    Gray backlit gauge
  • ballroomdancerballroomdancer Member Posts: 34
    Gray backlit gauges
    Maintenance Minder system
    Driver’s and front passenger’s illuminated vanity mirrors
    Sunglasses holder
    Map lights
    Power moon roof with tilt feature
    Air conditioning with air-filtration system
    Outside Temperature Gauge
    Dual-zone automatic climate control system
    Premium Interior Accents
    Interior Trim Kit
    Center Trim Kit
    Door Panel Trim Kit
    Heated Front Seats
    Leather-trimmed seats and door-panel inserts
    Driver’s Seat with 8-way power adjustment
    Driver’s and front passenger’s seat belt reminder
    Passenger’s seat with 4-way power
    Adjustable front seat belt anchors
    Front seat belts with automatic tensioning system
    Illuminated Power window switches (driver/passenger)
    Power windows with auto-up/down driver’s window
    Power door locks
    Side Door pockets with integrated beverage holder, front and rear
    Beverage holders front and rear (8 total)
    Center console with sliding armrest and storage compartments
    Ambient Console Lighting
    12-volt power outlets (front and center console)
    Outboard Lower Anchors and Tethers for Children (LATCH)
    Rear child seat tether anchor
    Fold-down rear seat center armrest and trunk pass-through with lock
    Fold-down rear seatback with lock
    Multi-reflector halogen headlights with auto-off
    Chrome window trim
    Body-colored door handles
    Body-colored power side mirrors
    Body-colored rocker panels
    Impact-absorbing body-colored bumpers
    Daytime Running Lights (DRL)
    Emergency trunk opener
    Cargo area light
    Remote fuel filler door and trunk release lock
    LED brake lights
    Rear window defroster
    Chrome exhaust finisher(s)

    $ = Your best offer on the above vehicle WITH ACCESSORY PACKAGE FEATURES

    $+ ____ = PLUS Maryland Tax, Tags, License as well as any and ALL miscellaneous charges!

    $ = “OUT THE DOOR” VEHICLE PRICE WITH ACCESSORY PACKAGE FEATURES

    No cover sheet required. Just fill in the blanks and FAX:

    Please FAX your offer no later than 5 PM on Friday, April 6th, 2007

    Thank you for your response!
    “Dealers can comfortably part with a new car once they make a profit of $1500. Many times this profit margin means selling the car for under invoice price”. Excerpt from New Car Insider $26,627 INVOICE
  • seekgreatdealseekgreatdeal Member Posts: 1
    Deal in San Jose, California on 4/8/2007.

    Here is a split of my deal I made today on my Honda Accord
    2007 Special Edition (SE) 4 Door 4 Cylinder Automatic trans.

    Price paid :$18,488.00 ($1005 below INVCE)
    Sales tax :$ 1,572.00
    Document Prep fee :$ 55.00
    Security system :$ 694.00
    Extended warranty :$ 1000.00
    License/reg & Calif Tire fee :$ 196.75

    Total cash :$ 22,005.00
  • ballroomdancerballroomdancer Member Posts: 34
    To simplify the above information about the purchase of the 2007 EX-L V-6 with Navigation (see #14632), I will break down some information and categories as well as the math for those of you who may be confused:

    #1). $29,900 = Is the Manufacturers Suggested Retail Price (MSRP) for this EX-L V-6 with Navigation (not including dealer options, tax, tags, etc.)

    #2.) $26,627 = Is the National Invoice Price (standard features only) for this basic EX-L V-6 with Navigation (not including dealer options, tax, tags, etc.)

    #3.) $25,061.76 = Is the purchase price I actually paid for this vehicle (not including dealer options, tax, tags, etc.)

    #4.) $1,565.24 = The dollar difference amount UNDER INVOICE (NOT PAID but what I saved through good research and negotiation)on the basic EX-L V-6 with Navigation (not including dealer options, tax, tags, etc.). This is the primary number that most people want to know in order to determine if you actually got a good price for the basic vehicle or not. Most people make the mistake of paying way too much for the options (especially extended warranties, etc.) because they didn’t do their research and were impulsive buyers. The dealer is counting on you to make that common mistake.

    #5.) $3,203 = The total amount I paid for the following OPTIONS:
    $138 Splash Guards
    $ 76 Wheel Locks
    $125 Pinstripe
    $399 Paint Matched Moldings (i.e. Fender well and door edge trim, etc.)
    $587 Rear Wing Spoiler
    $440 Fog Lights
    $ 97 Hood Switch Kit
    $ 61 Cargo Net
    $980 Eight (8) year Extended Honda Care Warranty (Zero Deductible)
    $300 Paint and Leather Protection Package

    The above options are initially shown to the buyer at a much higher RETAIL PRICE (more than double in many cases) but it means nothing! Only the bottom line matters!

    #6.) $1,539.24 = Maryland Tax and Tags

    #7.) $29,804 = The total FINAL PURCHASE PRICE I PAID combining #3 + #5 + #6

    Hope this helps to clarify some of the confusion I have seen in the previous discussions.
  • bvdj84bvdj84 Member Posts: 1,724
    How much were your payments when it was all set and done, I have been trying to see how much a 29k car would be a month, did you put any money down?

    Thanks
  • ballroomdancerballroomdancer Member Posts: 34
    In answer to your question about financing, I opted NOT to finance. Paid for the entire transaction up front, without the use of any kind of financing (Dealer financing or otherwise).
    If you find an ammortization table on the internet, you can plug in and play with the different terms on a loan (i.e. amount of loan, rate of interest, number of months for the length of the loan) and that will give you the answer that you need. Just be aware that most loans include hidden processing and document fees.
    Bye for now
  • dwynnedwynne Member Posts: 4,018
    You can use the loan calculator here to see what the payments would be. For prime and super-prime borrowers CapitalOne normally offers rates less than most banks and car dealers - except for something like Honda supported rates.

    They are currently doing 6.35% on 60 month loans - so $29 at that rate and term would be $565.38 per month.

    Dennis
  • luckydevilluckydevil Member Posts: 5
    Just got an internet quote for a Honda Accord V6 SE of $21,005 including freight but not including tax, title and 299 dealer fee. Anybody think I can find it lower in the Northern Va area?

    Also I can get the 2.9% financing on this so that may affect the pricing.
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Dunno,but I bet you could draw a line thru that 299 and still get the car. Hopes this helps.
  • he8833he8833 Member Posts: 52
    Ballroom,

    Are you an attorney? Wow. That was quite the detailed post. A few questions? If you were buying the EX, and all those options that you listed are STANDARD why have them verify they come with the car?

    Also what did you gain by having them fax it vs email. How would a fax be anymore valid than an email.
  • mattgg1mattgg1 Member Posts: 191
    ballroomdancer -

    You mention that "Most people make the mistake of paying way too much for the options"..."The dealer is counting on you to make that common mistake."

    I believe you made this same mistake with your vehicle purchase. While I'm sure you paid less than the "Retail Price" for these options, you still paid way too much. For example, here are the prices you paid, versus the prices I found from several sources...

    $138 Splash Guards - $55
    $ 76 Wheel Locks - $30
    $125 Pinstripe - probably costs dealer ~$50/car
    $399 Paint Matched Moldings - $55 (fender), $45 (door)
    $587 Rear Wing Spoiler - $329
    $440 Fog Lights - $219
    $ 97 Hood Switch Kit - couldn't find
    $ 61 Cargo Net - $32
    $980 Eight year Extended Honda Care Warranty - good price
    $300 Paint and Leather Protection Package - could have spend $50 on premium car car products and got much better results than the dealer Mop & Glow

    http://www.accessories-honda.com/store/index.php?cPath=21
    http://www.handa-accessories.com/accord06.html
    http://www.hondapartsdeals.com/index.php?cName=accord-20062007-accord
  • hondaodyacchondaodyacc Member Posts: 2
    Do you mind sharing which dealer gave you the quote of 16.5K for 2007 Accord VP A/T? I can't get a price south of 17K in Minneapolis.
  • he8833he8833 Member Posts: 52
    Hondaodyacc,

    Drop me an email I'm in MPLS and have been looking to buy..I would like to hear who u have talked to here in the Twin Cities. I have been looking as far as Chicago and have a few dealer names lined up ready to email. Drop me an email you can find it under my profile if you prefer to talk off the boards.
  • dwynnedwynne Member Posts: 4,018
    That is true, but keep in mind the prices you show do not include labor for installation. The spoiler, for example, requires drilling holes in the trunk lid of your new car - and is not something I would do for myself. You probably can get it cheaper than what was paid by this person, but it will cost you more than the price you show for just the part.

    Check the install instructions on even the cheap cargo net - you need 3 different sized drill bits and a 26mm hole saw (I don't think I have the latter item in my tool box at all). Same is true for the fog lights - you have to cut the front bumper cover with a utility knife (one slip and there go all your savings) and run the wiring from the front of the car to the interior and mount the switch. Probably beyond the abilities of most owners and for sure something most would not want to try even if they knew what to do.

    Shipping is also not included in your prices, is it? That can add up too.

    So yes, negotiate the prices on this stuff the same as the car - to get the best/lowest price, but you really can't compare online prices w/o shipping or installation on some of these items with the price installed at the dealer.

    The rip-off "paint and leather protection" should never be purchased, the same with most pinstripes. The things you can install your self (wheel locks) you can always get later.

    Dennis
  • jcash2dsjcash2ds Member Posts: 29
    Good post. I didn't see that coming either. My paint protection (395) and fabric protection (another 395) came with the vehicle...no cost. Same goes for the 395$ wheel locks :)
  • dwynnedwynne Member Posts: 4,018
    The place we got my daughter's Civic and my wife's Accord has extras (at least mud flaps and wheel well trim) on every car, but we don't pay for that stuff either. We get a bottom line price and the whatever is on the car is "free". My daughter didn't like the pin stripes (not painted on) so she made them remove it and re-wax the car before she took delivery :D

    She wanted a cargo net, but the dealer price was high. We didn't check the install instructions before she purchased the car (but we did before we ordered it for $30) - you need a "rivnut" tool and have to do some drilling to install it. I think one or two of the online accessory places will loan you the tool for a nominal fee, but needless to say she still does not have a cargo net in her Civic... yet.

    Dennis
  • ballroomdancerballroomdancer Member Posts: 34
    Hey [mattgg1],
    I received quotes from dealers that listed "No Charge" for some of the options I asked for but their bottom line was still substantially padded elsewhere. If they still have a ton of money in the deal somewhere else (over invoice) then what difference does it make WHAT they are charging you for that particular option or all the options together ON PAPER? It's all bait and switch! Make it look pretty over here (in the options department) but screw you over there ("pay no attention to that fool behind the curtain"). I'll bet if you go to enough sources (and you went to several) you may eventually find one of each optional item I listed as "FREE of charge" or "NO charge" by some dealer somewhere. But it's still the bottom line that counts. What you conveniently failed to mention about my explanation is when I said "The above options are initially shown to the buyer at a much higher RETAIL PRICE (more than double in many cases) BUT IT MEANS NOTHING! ONLY THE BOTTOM LINE MATTERS!" It's not important WHERE they put their profit ON PAPER (they have to make SOMETHING on the deal or it's NO DEAL). I was just explaining HOW "they" (my particular dealership where I purchased the vehicle from) eventually listed the pricing for the options on MY particular purchase agreement to arrive at the bottom line that I agreed to BEFORE they did the paperwork. They can shuffle the numbers around all they want and in any fashion they want but I'm still only paying $27,284.76 (not including tax and tags) WITH ALL THE OPTIONS I SELECTED! Here's YOUR challenge: You show me someone who bought the same identical car in the same identical state (Maryland) for $1,565.24 UNDER invoice and ALSO PAID WHAT YOU LISTED for each of the options . . . THEN I'LL BE IMPRESSED AND ALL SHOOK UP ABOUT IT (which is your obvious jealous intent). Show me a "purchase price" under $27,284.76 (not including tax and tags)for a NEW 2007 EX-L V-6 AT w/Navigation (no mileage) WITH those options and I'll be devastated to your complete satisfaction. Taking the lowest price from one source you found on a particular option over here and the lowest price you found on another particular option from another source over there and lumping them all together doesn't add up to nothing but a FUTILE ATTEMPT TO BUY A CAR (stop dreaming). IF you show me a NEW (no mileage) 2007 EX-L V-6 AT with Navigation WITHOUT ANY OPTIONS AT ALL for a purchase price SUBSTANTIALLY below $25,061.76 (not including tax and tags) THEN I will get all bent out of shape over it for, JUST FOR YOU, and complete your day :) When you do find it, I'll give you my fax number so you can send over the purchase order and rub my nose in it real good! As for the $300 Mop and Glow. Knock yourself out Dude!
  • mattgg1mattgg1 Member Posts: 191
    dwynne -

    You are correct, the prices I cited do not include the cost of labor.

    However, the majority of these options (splash guards, wheel locks, moldings, cargo net, wax/scotchguard) can be installed with little effort or cost.

    The only options requiring any real skill or time, as you mentioned, are the fog lights and spoiler. The price savings on the spoiler alone is $260. A friend of mine had a spoiler installed on a 2006 Accord for $50, which would still save you over $200.

    And you are correct, shipping is not included in those prices.

    However, in most cases you will not pay sales tax on these items (unless you live in the same state as the online company) as you would have to at the dealer, which should cover the cost of shipping.

    For example, sales tax on all of the options (except extended warranty & pinstripe) would total $126 in my state (6% sales tax). Yet total shipping costs from one of these sites was less than $50, which means you would save even more money.
  • mattgg1mattgg1 Member Posts: 191
    ballroomdancer -

    Wow! Judging by your post, I think you may need to lay off the caffeine! I think you've gotten a bit too worked up over my comments.

    I agree with you that it's the bottom line that counts, and that was my point in the first place.

    You paid about $1500 under invoice for your car, which is great, but you paid a lot more for all of your add-ons than they are worth. For the sake of argument, lets say you were overcharged $1000 on all of those options.

    This effectively means you paid about $500 under invoice, after facoring in being overcharged on the add-ons. This is in line with what most in this forum are paying, if not a bit higher.

    On a side note, I'm not sure why you're taking things so personally..."your obvious jealous intent", "devastated to your complete satisfaction", "rub my nose in it real good." Take some deep breaths and relax.
  • gringo1gringo1 Member Posts: 72
    Here in Colorado dealers are telling me 21.8k for an SE V-6 and that no Colorado Honda dealers have any market incentives on the Accord this month.

    I can go to Texas to buy or New Mexico.

    Anyone have info about Texas Accords or NM?

    Thx,
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Come on down,Pardner and do some biddness.
  • he8833he8833 Member Posts: 52
    ballroomdancer,

    I dont think Mattgg1 was trying to one-up you. He was simply trying to point out the fact that if bought online SOME of those items could have been purchased for less. Its sounds like you were very discplined and systematic in negoitating a price for your vechile. The purchase price of your car is one of the lowest I have seen. You are also correct in that people need to be careful when beliveing they recieved a good deal on the purchase price when @ the same time their getting screwed on the trade-in etc. So their so called "great deal" is anything but.

    I belive Mattgg1 post was helpful as some of the items if purchased online can be bought cheaper vs. purchasing from the dealer. This may help somone else whos considering those same options save money by purchasing them online vs purchasing throuugh a dealer, which is the very information this forum strives to get out.
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    I agree... all posts are helpful. And the $1000 - $2000 below invoice seems to be the norm now.

    My only comment is that I think paying for the mop and glow is very questionable. Can't remember a savvy buyer who made that decision because it is almost pure dealer profit.
  • jmr237jmr237 Member Posts: 9
    I think you can do better. I found that a dealership's internet sales people will email a good quote right off the bat, but if you call them they'll go down without much prodding. Try to knock at least $500 off the $21,000, if not more.
  • mindaugasmindaugas Member Posts: 10
    It was Honda on Grand in Elmhurst. Do you want to pay cash for your new car or finance it ?
  • ballroomdancerballroomdancer Member Posts: 34
    I sincerely appreciate your comments he8833. Obviously I had personal difficulty getting past Mattgg 1’s comment: "you still paid way too much" for the options. I couldn't help but feel he was deliberately missing the point in order to make it look like I "still paid way too much" for the options (go figure?). He may be having a difficult time understanding that I negotiated the car as a package! I’ll try to explain it again: I could not know ahead of time (and really didn't care) if the dealer would type in $1 for the cargo net or $500 for the cargo net. How the dealer wanted to juggle the numbers above the actual purchase price to meet my actual purchase price demand of $29,804 (OTD, including tax and tags) was of no interest to me! To say I "paid way too much" for the options is unfair. I only gave a thorough breakdown of how THE DEALER FILLED OUT THE PURCHASE ORDER. This way, everyone could see how it compared to the dealers normal retail pricing. BUT THAT'S NOT WHAT I ACTUALLY PAID FOR THE OPTIONS! I'll explain it another way in hopes that someone out there (that means you Mattgg 1) can understand and appreciate that I did NOT PAY $300 for MOP AND GLO or even $980 for the eight year extended warranty (zero deductible). HERE IS THE WAY THE DEAL SHOULD BE PROPERLY VIEWED (now pull out your calculators and read carefully): $28,264.76 (is the actual purchase amount for the car PLUS ALL THE OPTIONS excluding tax and tags). Now SUBSTRACT $26,627 (which is the invoice price for the HONDA EX-L V-6 AT with Navigation WITHOUT ANY OPTIONS excluding tax and tags). The difference on your calculator should be = $1,637.76. Think about it. I only paid a combined total price of $1,637.76 OVER the INVOICE PRICE for ALL of the following options: Splash Guards; Wheel Locks; Pinstripe; Paint Matched Moldings (i.e. Fender well and door edge trim, etc.); Rear Wing Spoiler; Fog Lights; Hood Switch Kit; Cargo Net; Eight (8) year Extended Honda Care Warranty (Zero Deductible) PLUS the Paint and Leather Protection Package. THE WAY I SEE IT that's averaging about $163 PER OPTION (above the invoice price, not including tax and tags). Any light bulbs going off out there? Now, ABOUT ALL THOSE NEGATIVE COMMENTS CONCERNING THE MOP AND GLO (this ones for you tallman1): You guys have got to quit kidding yourselves about all the exterior and interior hazards to a 30K vehicle just so you can save a few hundred dollars (or $163 in my case). To completely detail a car inside and out can cost way over $200 per visit. That’s means even if I did pay $300 for MOP AND GLO (which I didn’t) it would more than pay for itself if the P&L prevented me from paying for two “detailing” jobs. But you see, we’re not talking about a little wash and wax job here (Mop and Glo?). NOT ONE OF YOU GUYS WHO ARE BEING CRITICAL HAS PROBABLY EVEN READ THE PAINT AND LEATHER PROTECTION WARRANTY CERTIFICATE. So, I’m going to give to you the short and sweet READER"S DIGEST VERSION from the Paint and Leather Protection Certificates as follows: INTERIOR LEATHER (or cloth) Warranty (7 years/RENEWABLE FOR LIFE) “. . . against damage as a result of normal spills of water, coffee, soda, milk, baby oil, lubricating oil or greasy products such as mayonnaise and French fried potatoes or if the leather (or cloth) interior of the vehicle treated becomes damaged by FADING, DISCOLORING or CRACKING OF THE DASH . . . ECP will pay for CLEANING and/or REPAIR of the damaged area and reapplication to the cleaned or repaired material without charge to the vehicle owner. If stains are caused by dyes or bleaches, the remedy is limited to professional dyeing of the carpet or upholstery. EXTERIOR PAINT (New vehicles: 7 years/RENEWABLE FOR LIFE) “. . . against damage by FADING, chalking or LOSS OF GLOSS resulting from ESPOSURE TO THE SUN, weather-induced ACID RAIN, TREE SAP or BIRD DROPPINGS . . . ECP will PAY FOR REPAIR of the damaged portion of the vehicle.” So WHY did I personally elect to get the exterior paint and interior leather protection package (because tallman1 thinks I'm not "savvy"?) There are many reasons, but particularly because this vehicle will NOT be parked in a covered garage (UV damage to the paint). Instead, it will be parked in an open driveway surrounded by trees (and tree sap) which birds love to sit in and do their business as they fly over the car. Inside the car will be eating and spilling and my girl friends makeup all over the upholstery (let’s not forget the lubricants . AND GUESS WHAT? The P&L protection increases the resale value of my car and will save me a ton of money on exterior paint damage repairs and interior cleaning repairs (not to mention fewer detailing jobs). I'm certain I'll have to put in a claim or two and it will pay for itself all over again and again.
    FINAL ITEM (this one's for my favorite buddy: Mattgg 1): Addressing those comments above about “I COULD GET THAT OPTION CHEAPER SOMEWHERE ELSE AND INSTALL IT MYSELF” (i.e. wheel locks, etc.). Get your tools (which cost money) and use up your time (MY time is money) and RISK screwing up a 30K car investment (or advise some else to screw up their investment) by UNPROFESSIONALY installing a rear wing spoiler (or even a simple cargo net) or anything else that suits you. But, when I pick up MY car, it will ALL BE DONE and done perfectly and professionally. HERES THE KICKER: I WILL ALSO HAVE A MANUFACTURERS WARRANTY THAT COVERS EVERY SINGLE OPTION PUT ON MY VEHICLE BY THE DEALER. You however, and your DO-IT-YOURSELF buddies will have Diddly for a warranty! Dang, that caffeine’s got a good kick to it. Don’t it?
    Many thanks to those of you (past and future) who made very clear “positive” comments about my detailed post. I hope to have helped others save money too.
    Bye for now
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