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Comments
looking to switch to a sedan. I've had good experiences with Hondas in
the past, so somewhat reflexively have been thinking of an Accord, and
have been considering the 2011/2010 years, for purchase. My aim is to
have whatever car I get for ten years or more. Generally it's going to
be just for the work commute, which is not long. I get my cars
serviced religiously, don't do any work on them myself.
My aims:
1. Safety is #1 by a wide margin
2. Reliability (minimum lost time for unscheduled work on the car) is #2
3. Overall costs of ownership/lease, use and maintenance/repairs is #3
(things like terminal/resale value belong in here)
Nothing else really matters to me.
Questions:
1. When would you go for lease versus purchase? When does leasing make sense, in general?
2. Is there a sedan which has better prospects for safety and
reliability than the Honda Accord that I should consider?
3. How to get the best deal - looking for strategy and tactics
4. Is it better to get a new car or used car (balancing aims #2 and #3)
I know it's been a while we're back and for on the EXL CVT pricing, where are you with pricing right now, what's the lowest OTD you have received?
The reason I am asking is we're about to settle for my friend tomorrow, at 27.450 OTD, sale was about 2K less with tax, doc and DMV, less flex came to 27,450.
Brian, I think the 24.5K sale price was by far a strech, even at 25K very few offers. I was aiming for 27K OTD on the 2013 EXL CVT Accord but no luck I guess this time.
Tomorrow we're going to the dealer, and going through with this. Comments??
Thanks,
Julian
Check out edmunds home page on lease vs buying. everybody has a different take on it. Whether you buy new or used again its your choice. Its always nice to buy new. Can i afford a new car is your question. You cant lease a vehicle for 10 yrs.
Good luck.. check out consumer reports for reliable models over the years.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
why are you in such a rush to close tomm????????????
wait til friday or sat
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
Thoughts, thoughts please?
Last year I was looking to buy a certified Honda and the price wasn't that much lower due to low depreciation, and the interest rate was much higher compared to the new car purchase. That combined with the new car offers, and being anew car, I went with the new car purchase. Over 10 years, like the prior speaker said, I think it makes much more sense to buy a new car and have piece of mind. that was me in any case, I am sure you can make a different argument as well. Julian
26,399 is invoice w dest charge.
What area is this. What thoughts are you looking for. If you contacted your targeted dealerships and thurs is the buying deadline for your friend make the deal. Minus the dealerships doc fee's off that 809 number and thats where your at for sale price.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
i did not know what to make out of that post. LOL
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
i did not know what to make out of that post. LOL
Pre certified Accord lx............. 2010
$11,980
$12,900
$13,200
You would be saving 10 to 11 k off the original sale price buying a 3 yr old Accord.
please note the new Accord is so much better than previous model yrs.
If you go from point A to point B you might not care about updated features.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
I have followed Brian's and other forum contributors advice.
I emailed about 7 dealerships this week. I have narrowed my list down to 3 dealerships who appear to be at more than $1000 below invoice. I am still trying to get more detailed information from a couple of dealerships about their sale price and flex cash. What I have noticed so far is that some internet managers do not always check their email and internet reps think all prospective buyers are not aware of flex cash. I will explain.
I was initially quoted a very low sales price by one dealership (at more than $1300 below invoice) and then when I inquired about flex cash, they stated it was included in the sales price. So I came back and stated my buy price for today was at $1500 below invoice plus $500 flex cash for financing through Honda. I told the internet rep to forward the deal to his manager. I plan to make some calls on Friday morning to those internet sales manager and close the deal that day, if I do not hear from them before then.
I will be out of town this weekend, so I am hoping to close a deal by Friday morning at the latest. If I can buy at $1400 below invoice with flex cash and my color combination, I will make the deal. Worse case, I will by soon after labor day.
A few things I have learned and noticed so far:
1. There are fewer and fewer color choices to pick from for the 2013 EX-L I4 sedan. At least one dealer out of the 3 I am working with has my color choice. One dealer was going to charge me $100 to get the car from another dealer.
2. Documentation fees are around $298 (I am not even going to try and negotiate that).
3. Some dealers like to quote a sales price with flex cash included, so do not play dumb. Make sure you make them list the sales price without any incentives.
4. If you can wait till September to buy, then start scouring dealer lots right after labor day and make sure the color combination you are looking for is available.
5. Brian's tips do work but I've had to use some of my own tactics.
Once I have a deal finalized, I will post the dealership name, and my final numbers.
All I can say is that buying a car has been a learning experience.
Anyone else in MA buying at the end of the month? Post your numbers if you have already made the purchase and provide some info about your deal.
Thanks,
Mike
You must be dying reading some of these pricing posts. In Chicago land your model almost 1700 below invoice. here on the East Coast dealers are fighting tooth and nail and adding flex cash to help themselves..
Stay the coarse you have 3 days alot will happen in those 3 days.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Maybe in a month's time, MA dealers might be at $1500 below invoice for the EX-L but who knows whether Flex cash might still be available at the end of the month.
I am not going to budge until Friday. I will keep you updated.
One last question, after closing the deal how do I convince the dealer to throw in free wheel locks and all weather mats? Should I tell them I will give them a positive customer review?
Wheel lock are on all EXL models dont sweat that its a freebee.
After you wrap up your deal friday ask the dealer if he will match the price of accessories from College hills honda or Cheap honda parts. for what ever items you want to add to vehicle............................................ Best prices on the web
All weather mats $104............ dealer cost $142
Wheel locks ............36................dealer cost $10
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Where do I find this invoice price?
I had let them know my target price is 24.4k for immediate deal, but they are not budging. Not sure if i would be able to strike it at 24.6k.
Has any body got the deal below 24.7k (just car selling price) so far in Boston or Boston metro west area? Please let me know, this helps understanding where i should be on my target price.
Looking to buy a EX-L in Omaha, NE this weekend and want to have the best info available. If anybody has purchased one locally, please provide your experience.
Thanks
Below that you will see a line graph showing a history of the average price for the car across several months.
BELOW THAT you will see a grid of information, and you will see the first column is labeled "Factory Invoice" and the first row labeled "Base". The cell where those two meet is the factory invoice, before destination charge.
I started by soliciting email quotes for the specific model I wanted. This got me a good idea of price, but also for which dealers had flex cash to throw around. A couple mentioned in their emails that they had flex cash available, and the price they quoted did not include any.
Could you provide the names of the dealerships offering 24.9k and 24.8k? Are they offering flex cash? Depending on the distance and whether they have my color combination in stock, I might try and reach out to them.
I would be surprised if you get a deal below 24.7k (less than $1700 below invoice) this month, but it all depends on whether a dealership needs to meet their end of the month sales quota.
Good luck and keep us updated.
Tomm..........." THurs ' kicks off the fun and starts to get close to the game.
Friday going into Sat, is when you will have the dealerships full attention and will learn exactly
What your area pricing is to buy. Its now your decision to buy or wait another month.
Remember about supply and demand it seems from posting this month dealers lots are limited on some models already. Its not getting better next month on those models.
Pricing might not be much better next month and to think you lost your choice of color or model for a few hundred would be a shame.
Dealers with 6, exl models this month sells 4. next month he is laughing at you because he knows if you want this car........ You buy at his price. This applies to any limited model Accord right know.
Your best deals come by seeing 10 to 15 of your model.
Keep on posting and talking with each other. Try to keep dealership names out of posted prices unless Requested . I remember back in Feb, there were a few dealerships that started to Renig on there pricing probably due to this forum.
If dealerships in one area are watching this forum on pricing it either helps or hurts us.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
So, yeah.. September 3rd is the end of the month..
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23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Who have you contacted and what is the best price you have seen so far? Make sure that before you walk into a dealership to close the deal, you have all your sales info in writing and request a bill of sale/purchase order.
Sale price of the vehicle: $20,919.03
Out The Door price: $22611.02
Residual: $13,263.90
with approved credit!
How do I even begin to negotiate that. Wanted closer to 230/month
Should I be trying to reduce the sale price of the vehicle?
I was looking at the cars on the lot at a nearby dealer today.
Every car had all of these dealer installed addons: Appearance Package $695 Mud Flaps $299 and Nitrogen filled tires $130. Doc fee $200.
When emailing dealers, do I even mention addons like this? Or, just give them my bottom line number (I was thinking starting at $22,750 which is $1287 below invoice)
Are they optional or required purchases?
I only saw a few EX models on their lot, so not sure what kind of pricing I'll get from them.
BTW, they did have a few new 2014 Accords in stock. How much more will they cost over a 2013?
Although, Prime's quote was initially about $1400 below invoice, the internet rep stated they factored in flex cash. So if you remove $500 from the quote, the actual sales price is only $900 below invoice. Which is not a great deal.
I emailed them my offer, but I do not expect them to bite yet. I am hoping that they reach out to me this weekend or early next week.
As for Bernadi Honda, their initial quote was $900 below invoice. I am trying to figure out if they have flex cash. I am waiting for a response.
I still do not see how you were able to get them to more than $1500 below invoice without any flex cash.
I have been in touch with bernardi for more than 3 weeks and the final quote they gave me over the phone was 24149 (it was around 24800 previously) when i visited them they rounded that to 24k. i was so happy that i would take that but bit later learned that they are charging 790 destination fee separately (and it became 24790) which they have never mentioned to me over the phone previously.
I was firm at my price with both of them @ 24.5k and they didn't budge too. this happened 10 days back. Now there might be change in their stand I hope.
If the salesman gave me that quote, the first thing I would have asked him was to get the sales manager and then ask the manager why am I being quoted an OTD purchase price when I want to lease the car. I would inquire about the money factor and residual and the components of the capitalized cost and since selling price is a key component, I would start my negotiating there.
If I recall correctly, when I ran your numbers, using your target of $19,600 and all the fees/taxes, the number was $225, so your $230 target makes it about $19,750. You have no chance to get it because you have not earned their respect as a buyer. They are still treating you like you don't know what you're doing by giving you the same numbers.
Brian will get a great deal because he commands their respect. When push comes to shove, the dealer knows it has to meet his terms to make a sale. They may not choose to and Brian will walk but if someone will get that deal, it would be him. It won't be you, because based on how you have come across so far to the dealer, when push comes to shove, he believes you will be the one who will give in. So he will never, ever give in to you. That's why I suggested you start fresh at another dealer.
I am doing all initial negotiations via email.
$24,900 is a very good offer. The final sales price you worked on with Bernadi for 3 weeks was $1609 below invoice. WOW, I would have jumped on that no questions asked.
Armed with this new information, my plan is to get a little more aggressive when negotiating with Prime Honda. I offered them to buy today for $1500 below invoice with $500 Flex cash for financing through Honda. I am waiting for a counter offer, but I am hoping that I can make this deal happen.
I made that same offer to Atamian Honda and they turned me down, but they said they will let me know if the sales price changes next month.
Both dealerships have the color combination I want, so I do not want to wait till next month when the stock on the EX-L gets even lower.
Anyone else in MA getting good deals/sale numbers?
In the end I did find a NY dealer that gave me just over 1K off invoice + some flex but it was a horror show. I also agree with an earlier post that NJ dealers are among the most distasteful. Newbies should also not trust any "market price" figures from the TRUEcar site, it does not provide objective data because it partners directly with particular dealerships that give the site a substantial kickback for leads that convert to a sale.
I hope Brian and others that have been trying to help make pricing more transparent on these forums are right that dealers become much more rapt when they need to book sales at the end of the month, I'm also interested how much they will push to clear 2013 inventory this Aug & Sept. So far I have had a hard time finding $1k below invoice + flex in NY/NJ, good luck to the buyers & please keep reports coming.
I had nitrogen in one vehicle, the tires were enhanced with a bit of nitrogen when I bought the vehicle. Absolutely no difference with normal air filled tires. I would never pay a dealer for this charade.
Personally, I avoid any dealer who attaches an addendum with overpriced items I did not order to their vehicles. This is simply one more profit grab by the dealer. IMHO, this tactic casts serious doubt upon the overall integrity of the dealer. I shudder to think what games those dealers will play in the F&I office.
Always good to recognize the single area of any car dealership where a customer can be confused and mistreated is the F&I office. That friendly person across the table is the dealership's top sales person whose job is to wriggle as much back end profit out of the buyer as possible. Every product sold in the F&I office is mostly useless and always grossly overpriced. Smart buyers simply say NO to every product offered. Everything sold can be purchased elsewhere for a much, much lower price.
My last two purchases from Criswell Honda, in Germantown, had addendums attached for about $80 for wheel locks. I ignored the addendums and negotiated a price. Criswell did not attempt to enhance the price for the wheel locks as a separate pricing element.
The doc fee is simply one more profit grab by the dealer. Simply put, all dealer costs should be covered by the price, which for the dealer is cost plus profit. The reality is most dealers employ the doc fee game. Legally if they show a doc fee on one contract they are best served to show it on all contracts. If they do not, they are subjecting themselves to a discrimination charge. In Maryland, the doc fee is capped at $200, I think. In Virginia the doc fee is much higher. My last purchase, for my daughter, in Virginia included a doc fee of $600, which I did not pay.
However, because they must show it does not mean the buyer must pay it. When you settle on a price just tell the dealer that is the total price you will pay, not a dime more for any addendums or doc fees. I have yet to encounter a dealer in Maryland who would not adjust the deal to compensate for the doc fee inclusion on the contract, they either reduce the price or increase the trade value or provide a few extras.
Personally, I have doubts about College Park and Ourisman, I think it highly likely those two dealerships would push hard for the additional doc fee profit.
When purchasing a vehicle, the most important thing to recognize is the buyer is in control. The one exception to this is possibly if the buyer has very poor credit. For most buyers, their feet are their best negotiating tool. The last thing a sales person wants to see is a solid buyer heading for the door without purchasing. Often, it is at that time when the buyer will hear the dealer's better and maybe best offer.
Recently bought an Acura. Basically settled on my price. Salesman spoke with the tower. He came back and said the price was good bit the tower required an additional $350 for registration. I said I would wait a bit, thanked him for his time and started to leave. I barely got out of the chair when he said OK no additional $350.
I took the $350 and bought an IPad.
The prices listed as target by TC are essentially set by the dealer. As such those prices are far above what is possible.
As you mention, at a minimum the TC price is overstated by $300.
Truth is, anyone buying at the TC price has left money on the table and made a dealer very happy.
Could you please share what was the last quote you got from Bernardi?
Ok - off the soapbox - gotta go top off my new tires that have this newly formulated H2O filling in them - no need for air. Problem is they're real heavy and a chore to rotate. That's ok - got em for 985 - regular price is 995.
Bill G
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
The reason you got it for $985 is because that's yesterday's technology. Today it's H2O2. Hydogen peroxide filled tires deliver one extra mpg or so I'm told
I have agreed on a deal in writing with Prime Honda. Here are the details:
Invoice: $26,399
Sales price: $24,899 ($1500 below invoice)
Flex cash: $500 (towards down payment)
Final sales price after flex cash = $24,399
No dealer add-ons
Documentation Fees: $295
Title and Registration = $125
Sales Tax of 6.25%
My second best offer was from Honda Cars of Boston. I dealt directly with the internet sales manager via e-mail. I was offered a sales price of $24,998 ($1401 below invoice) plus $500 flex cash. They did not have my color combination in stock so they were going to charge me an extra $100 to locate it. That brought the sales price to $1301 below invoice. Their documentation fees were $298, and title and registration fees were $130. They were even going to charge me $89 to install wheel locks.
Everyone else was at around $1000 below invoice.
I told Prime that I would buy today at that price and after a few emails over two days, they agreed.
I will try and post more info tomorrow after I check out the car and sign the papers.
Thanks everyone for your input, and to anyone out there looking to buy a Honda Accord, this forum is the best source of information for pricing in your area and great advice.
I am brand new to the forum and have been reading a good majority of the posts on this topic as i am in the process of diving in to purchase a 2013 honda accord sport sedan. I do not intend on adding any extras as i can purchase down the road for cheaper. I prefer a black exterior but read its better to keep the option that im not particular on color? I just started to compile a list of dealers around the bay area (im based in SF). I plan to contact all dealers by phone to get the internet sales mgr information and contact them directly by phone/email asking for breakdown i price: doc fee, TTL, etc. Can someone point me to the msg# of the email template/conversation when wanting to purchase for my bottom line price from the internet sales mgr?
I have seen invoices price different amongst different sites, from edmunds i show $22,929, at this
time (labor day weekend, sept approaching) what should i aim for sales price? What about for the EX Sedan? I plan on having financing situated with a Credit union and may finance w/honda if the interest is lower and they offer flex cash. Once i am set on price, is there anyway to lock the price down once i get there? I want to make sure i cover all my bases down because i like everyone else do not want to get swindled. Any other help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you all in advance
The best offer I've gotten in 800 below invoice.
Invoice:
Sale Price: 20482
Residual: 13263
Tax: $469
Acquisition Fee: 595
Total Cap Cost: 21645
Lease Factor: .00075
Term: 36 months/15k per year.
This brings us to a 259 monthly payment. Would it be unreasonable to ask for another 800 below invoice?
I am brand new to the forum and have been reading a good majority of the posts on this topic as i am in the process of diving in to purchase a 2013 honda accord sport sedan, but maybe debating the EX model. I do not intend on adding any extras as i can purchase down the road for cheaper. I prefer a black exterior but read its better to keep the option that im not particular on color? I just started to compile a list of dealers around the bay area (im based in SF). I plan to contact all dealers by phone to get the internet sales mgr information and contact them directly by phone/email asking for breakdown i price: doc fee, TTL, etc. Can someone point me to the msg# of the email template/conversation when wanting to purchase for my bottom line price from the internet sales mgr?
I have seen invoices price different amongst different sites, from edmunds i show $22,929, at this
time (labor day weekend, sept approaching) what should i aim for sales price? What about for the EX Sedan? I plan on having financing situated with a Credit union and may finance w/honda if the interest is lower and they offer flex cash. Once i am set on price, is there anyway to lock the price down once i get there? I want to make sure i cover all my bases down because i like everyone else do not want to get swindled. Any other help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you all in advance
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
currently shopping an EX-L or LX or even willing to go Civic.
can't get past "invoice", even when dealing with straight great credit $1500 down. 2 admittedly weathered pilots(2003) and passats (2001) were breezed by at 1800 and 1000 .
surprised on second visit when i mentioned flex $500- manager acknowledged, and then said the funds were "limited'.
looking at 4cyl.
how can I get below invoice?
2 dealers: both pretty close...
thanks!
ideal:
1500 down
310/mth at 1.9 honda 60 mth finance
365/ mth at 1.9 honda finance 60 mths
not married to any exterior/ enterior
and lastly- what happens after september 3 for the 2013's?